Good news for those with a 1999 C230 Kompressor. The two replacement valves are near the front, passenger side, close to the air box and hose to the compressor. They are simple to get to. The shut off valve is easy to remove and replace. The check valve is hard. It is screwed in very tight to a brass tube. You can't get a wrench to the nut on check valve and even if you did it takes superhuman strength. All is not lost. Follow the brass tube underneath the car. Jack it up and you see it enter the engine case and is held on by a easy to get to nut (look near the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe). You can now remove the hex bolt holding the bracket of the brass tube (back in the engine compartment). Pull the whole tube out, put it in a vice, and now you can get leverage on the check valve. Reassemble and clear the code. By the way it was my check vavle that was severley carbon corroded.
Thank you so much for the info! Especially explaining the use of that second valve and how it can fail. I bet thats where all the trouble is gonna be for me. My MB SLK 200K also has a supercharger and has no separate electric pump. Not much can go wrong with it except those valves. Why on earth do they even make these emission systems is beyond me. How much emissions is it going to prevent compared to all the trouble it makes? I bet all the emissions its purportedly saved has been wiped out by so many trips to the mechanic just to get that thing fixed!
Video was lots of help. Thanks for putting it on here. I had to replace the flap that opens and allows supercharged air in. It was stuck closed and ran terrible. And yes it was expensive. Just the part was around $400. You're right, don't start there unless you have to.lol
I managed to remove the check valve quite easily using vice grips tightly clamped on the metal pipe just below the 27mm wrench point on the valve, then using the 27mm wrench with the vice grips as an anchor squeezing them both together to undo the valve.
Thanks for the information, after driving my car from last fall until the shutdown without a problem, all of a sudden my CEL light comes on if I let the car sit at idle (it seems to happen only when I allow the car to idle for a few minutes) It has not put the light on, but I think the car standing in the garage without being used may have caused the problem you are showing.
Great video and very good instructions! You helped me to repair my 2002 CLK C200. Thank You very much! My best wishes for You from Finland. Keep going :)
I've just readied my Secondary Air System test. I have a 2005 c230k. here's how I did it. I've done it in the summer where the nights have a low of about 80 degrees F. let car sit all afternoon into the night ( 8+ hours to cool engine down as much as possible). start it and idle until Engine Cooland Temp reaches 160 degrees, should take 5+ minutes. may want to increase idle to 1200-1400 to increase temp.
You could also take it to a professional shop where they have those $1000+ Scanner tools to activate the Secondary Air so atleast you know its working.. its part of the Kompressor so its not a very loud noise as a regular pump would make. Even if you can hear it working tho, there is a chance that there is a problem down the line.
Just keep working on it until it breaks loose. Try penetrating oil but make sure you suck it out before you blow it through the catalytic converter. If it still doesn't work you'll probably have to have a shop replace that valve.
Thanks for the vid! I did what you showed and I did have air flowing thru the exhaust pipe. I replaced the top valve but check engine light is still on. Do you have to drive for certain miles to see if the light will go off? Also, I read in the forums it could be the O2 sensor but the only code I'm seeing is the P0410
My question is after you cleaned the second valve by the firewall how did you suck the dirt out with the vacuum?? I checked that the first valve was blowing air strong so I think my issue is with the second valve but I’m not sure how to clean it and don’t want to mess up my cat converter. Thanks
hey am Peter and I like this video, it's nice and it helps me understand how the secondary air is forced into the egr systerm( emission). but am a little bit confused how the actuator is connected below the intake manifold . I mean the egr electric valve actuator . I can see 1 line going into the valve suction point. but for the line below and the other at the top. am kind of confused about it . thanks
Do you happen to know the part number or name for the brass pipe that you connected compressor to? If you go under the car it’s connected to block itself and has a large bolt maybe 1” head connecting to block and my thought is if I can remove it I can clean it take off the pipe completely since I don’t have access to air
I've been cleaning this valve on my car since 2008. I realized that cold start surging was caused by this valve sticking. I started removing and cleaning it randomly and then when I stopped, it started sticking and surging and losing power. Now I do it once a year. However, I lapsed and last cleaned the valve in 2013, now the valve stuck again while I was driving through the Alps. Was not fun at all to get up those mountains. Now I've got it soaking in carb cleaner downstairs, since the first clean a couple days ago worked, but it must have had so much sludge in there that it hardened again after the clean and stuck open. This design sucks, to be honest.
Very nice explanation, understood The System for the First Time ;-) I replaced both valves but still get Codes, now i will check the vacum lines... Agree with the checkvalve, Its a real mess to remove it, hat to build a Tool...
@@mikenewbry Ok is releated to check engine codes P0325 for knock sensor and P2007 sometimes i get this code and car has a loss of power for short time?
Thank you for the information. I have a 1999 C230. Hopefully it has the same valve setup 2.3 Kompressor. Similar codes. Hope mine is not the super charger. My car does go into limp mode but....only sometimes. 70% of the time it runs fine. 30% it bogs down. But I feel like I still haven't experienced the full power of the engine. I've run some StarTron enzyme fuel treatment and some full synthetic high mileage oil treatment fluid. It performed So much better ..but still the problem exists.. Bought 11 days ago.
@@MalcombMedia1 unfortunately, no and it's been sitting not running for 2 years. I either need to come into a large chunk of money and get the whole thing fixed, or sell it off. It's such a shame...
@@MalcombMedia1 well it's an inline 4-cylinder so everything is somewhat in the middle. Honest, I don't know if the valves are easy to get to but I seen someone partially take one of these engines apart and it didn't seem too hard you just need the right metric tools. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Does it have a relay even if it dont have the air pump??. My engine looks different my supercharger is on the intake manifold side.. The air valve seems to be located on the passenger side.. Im not sure.. Can u help me out?
Tks, but my problem does show up on the scan tools, but the main problem I have is misfire, 2-3 cylinder, but I change the coil and spark plus few month ago. I even check my injector is running fine, but idk why keep saying Mis and air, and someone is show up at Wastegate problem, if showing misfire I turn off and turn it back on then problem is gone
Please help im lost. I checked the electromagnetic check valve its working OK. I also have constant vaccum from the kompressor that connects to the solenoid. I cleant the denso control valve also OK. The check valve i replaced with a new one ( that you cleaned in the video). The problem is, i have no boost presure from the manifold that is bypassed before the the denso valve. I assume a O2 sensor could be bad or the waste gate ( trottle body on manyfold side or near the kompressor is bad). There is no pressure in manifold for 30 sec. Any ideas ? Could i try to reset the throttle bodies ?
Yesterday i turn on the car and after i've made 7 km, check engine light it appeared was the p0410 error... why after 7 km and not in first 30 secounds when the engine was turned on ? Can you help me please? I have c200 2.0 kompressor 163 Hp gasoline engine
The check valve intend to block reverse exhaust gas that extremely hot which could destroy shut off valve in short time. The check valve will severely clocked if your engine is abnormal burn fuel like running rich. The carbon deposit will build up faster. For me I think this design must be inspect check valve at least once per year. The most convenient is to replace it a new expensive check valve.
Awesome vid, thank you! You helped me out a lot. We should be able to screw the damn thing off but I guess some sort of Mercedes tool is required... I cleaned it but I'm afraid it's too rusty. Let's hope for the best! Thanks again - Greetings from V in Belgium
Thanks for the video. It is good to see someone else's working ideas on the M111 engine and the dreaded 0410 code. I am doing the same myself at the moment. Following along with your sound logic I checked the vacuum at the servo input and output. In, yes. Out, no. The big question for me is where does the other line off the bottom of the servo go and what does it do? It seems to be a bigger vacuum line. Any ideas?
Hi so what the symptoms are for these p0410 and p2036 codes? I've just got obd2 Bluetooth thing and checked and I've got these codes but before I've checked I've never know that there is any problem with the engine. Is it worth trying fixing this if everything seems alright? Thanks guys
@@mikenewbry thanks mate i appreciate it, will see if it won't come up on the mot. I might need to get it done then so it can pass. But it's in a couple of months time 😀
So if my 02 C coupe is going into limp mode with the p0410 code its most likely the throttle body over the supercharger not working? I replaced the check valves a few years back when I first had this issue but it seems now the actuator over the supercharger isn't working, when I have the hoses all disconnected from it to see it working, it doesn't move when someone gives it gas, but I relearn the positioning of the actuator I can see it move in neutral when someone is giving it gas. Just trying to make sure I'm replacing the right part. Thanks in advance.
Sergio Silva Yeah if you're not getting any boost when you're driving it's probably the SC bypass flap, but even then it might not be the flap itself. It could be something else triggering the failsafe in the ECU. Let me know if you figure it out.
My 2001 C200K M111 engine won't start properly. No consistency in the process. It might stall a bit at start up and loss of power while driving. Again, not all the time. I'm suspecting that the air flap might be the culprit. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Not doubting you, I have the same vehicle year and all, but the hose you have hooked up to the compressor I have air coming from it, not being sucked in. What would be the cause of that? Isn't air supposed to be going in not out? Maybe I misunderstood.
If you're talking about the brass tube that goes down to the exhaust, most likely its because someone destroyed the check valve and exhaust is back flowing.
@@mikenewbry I'm guessing that is bad, is it an immediate need to fix? Also how does something happen like that? I bought this vehicle this year and have no knowledge of the previous owners care or lack of.
Yes, I had the car for a few years after that and didn't have that issue again. But eventually the supercharger failed and spit a bunch of metal into the engine so that was the end of that.
If you think it's an electrical issue you'll have to do all the usual electrical troubleshooting. Check fuses, relays wires etc. It's rare that an electrical issue would cause this problem.
What if i got the code "p2036 secondary air inlet". After resetting by car diagnose, car runs normally. Ater about 50km the engine losts power, it goes like without a supercharger, but i hear that charger is working. Is the issue could be bypass clap behind the supercharger? Or something else?
Sounds like the bypass flap is opening and putting the car in limp mode, so it's working properly, but you're going to have to find out the cause. It can be a lot of reasons that won't necessarily throw a check engine code.
@@mikenewbry so what to start with.. I already cleaned the throttle body, bypass flap, checked the connectors.:(
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Hi! I have problems only in winter when outside temperature is 0°C or -°C. If I start the car in the morning, I have P2039 code and the engine loss power. After 10-15 minutes come codes P2036 and P0410. When the engine is warmed and I delete the codes, everything is OK and the power is back. When the temperature are +°C, everything is OK, I dont have fault codes... Can you help me please? CLK 200 Kompressor EVO, 120 kW, 2002
Hi, Thanks for the detailed demo. I followed the same and took out the vacuum tube from the valve, it solved the issue and the car started fine. After a while when I closed everything else except the tube on to the valve and used OBD2 to see the codes. There was still the p0410 which I erased. After that when I tried to start the car, the key stopped turning and hence I cannot start the car. Can you help. Thanks
There's nothing on the secondary air injection system that should completely disable the engine so I'm not sure what it could be. If the engine won't even turn over it sounds like an electrical issue and the only system close to where you would have been working is the throttle body. Sorry I'm not much help. Let me know if you figure it out.
Thanks budy, I figured it as when the battery is disconnected and reconnected after a few seconds, the key turns and starts the car and you can drive. But when you press any buttons on key fob to lock when not in use, it goes back to same position. The key will not turn, hence again disconnect the battery and reconnect for the key to turn and start the car. Also you can only lock and unlock the car with emergency key as the fob does not work at all even after changing batteries. I'm amazed how the key is read fine by the ignition but not the central locking system. Any ideas....Awaiting your response
In order to test the whole system? Can I just turn on the air pump (connecting it to power) without turning on the engine and see if there's airflow at the exhaust pipe?
ok I have the same car 02 Mercedes 230 komp what it does is starts runs just like you said runs for 30 secs then it stops ..when the car stops it makes this pump noise like a suck pop lots of air buing rush at once but it does it after the cars stops and my car does not have that whole othe throttle body and air filter just the one small round one
My kompressor doesnt seem to work if i dont let the ignition stay on for about 20 secounds before i fire up the egnine. What could this be? If i just twist the key all the way instantly my car has very love acceleration..
It's hard to say with limited information, but I would check the pressure in the fuel rail. There's a valve that holds pressure in the system after you turn engine off. If that wears out the fuel system has to re-pressurize before the engine will start.
Check your battery. When you turn the ignition on it powers all of your electronics. This may put a drain on your battery and if the battery is bad, then it may drain it too much to start it.
Neil Williams actually sorry I didn't pay attention to which of my videos you were commenting on. No, this will not work on your S500 unless it's a Kompressor model. Your car probably has an electric smog pump that needs to be fixed or replaced.
Hey bro can you please please PLEASE help me out!? I'm getting three codes. P0410 P0174 P0400. Starting with the first. I have a 2002 Mercedes-Benz C320 Base 3.2L. I'm getting p0410 cel code. I've tested the secondary air pump directly and it works perfectly. But when I go to check the voltage at the 40amp fuse, nothing. There is no power at all when the car is off or on, cold or hot. I pulled the relay and checked it and it is functioning perfect on all terminals with 0.001 resistance. Am I missing something here? Why would there be zero power at the fuse? Shouldn't the fuse have a constant 12v and be wired in BEFORE the relay? I'm just about ready to pull out the entire fuse panel and rewire the secondary air pump. Has anyone had this problem before? Tomorrow I will pull the egr valve and tube for cleaning. Hopefully this gets me somewhere on the P0400 and P0174 codes. Does anyone have a diagram of all vacuum lines on this vehicle? I've traced and replaced a few lines, but I am very sure I have a vacuum leak somewhere that I don't see. I do not have access to a smoke machine. But would the cigar technique work? If so, where should I be pushing smoke in? Any help is greatly appreciated! I'm not sure what other relevant information I should include. But whatever I am lacking, please let me know and I will immediately go out to my vehicle to get it.
I've enjoyed mine, but at the same time I'm always debating whether I should sell it. This is just one of MANY problems I've had. Of course it doesn't help that the dirtbag I bought it from lied to me about how many times it had been wrecked and other issues that he was aware of but lied about. Stupid me for trusting someone selling a car.
Hi there, i have the same issue and after i erase the fault code i have a huge difference in power.I checked the valves and they are ok...now what can the problem be?Should i erase all the time the error or what to do? thank you so much
Madalin Neculai Photography yeah that's it. Start with cleaning and lubricating. There's also a process for resetting the home position. I'll probably make a video about it in a few weeks but I know there's information out there. If all else fails replace it and hope it's not the ECU putting it in limp mode.
yeah, the point is after i delete the p0410 error all the power is restored and works perfect till the error comes back again....maybe some cleaning with carb cleaner will do the trick ....
Clearing the codes won't actually fix anything. That's by design. So figure out what's happening that's resetting it and that can give you a clue whether it needs to be replaced or not. Most likely it's just the time that the car is sitting with the engine off that's allowing either the ECU or the flap position to reset, not necessarily clearing the code. You can also try resetting it by doing the ECU throttle reset. Turn the power on but don't start the engine, hold the gas pedal all the way down for 5 seconds, turn the car off and wait 10 seconds (or sometimes 2 minutes). It might give you a temporary fix.
Wow, you did quite a research on this engine. Your explanation of how and why this system works really helps. Thanks a lot for sharing!
Good news for those with a 1999 C230 Kompressor. The two replacement valves are near the front, passenger side, close to the air box and hose to the compressor. They are simple to get to. The shut off valve is easy to remove and replace. The check valve is hard. It is screwed in very tight to a brass tube. You can't get a wrench to the nut on check valve and even if you did it takes superhuman strength. All is not lost. Follow the brass tube underneath the car. Jack it up and you see it enter the engine case and is held on by a easy to get to nut (look near the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe). You can now remove the hex bolt holding the bracket of the brass tube (back in the engine compartment). Pull the whole tube out, put it in a vice, and now you can get leverage on the check valve. Reassemble and clear the code. By the way it was my check vavle that was severley carbon corroded.
I have a 1999 c230 and I truly hope it's one of these two valves. Thanks for the extra info!
Have the same 1999 c230k same code thanks for saving me the headache
Thank you so much.
Can finally fully Understand how this whole secondary air inject system works and diagnose the issues.
Awesome video
Thank you so much for the info! Especially explaining the use of that second valve and how it can fail. I bet thats where all the trouble is gonna be for me. My MB SLK 200K also has a supercharger and has no separate electric pump. Not much can go wrong with it except those valves. Why on earth do they even make these emission systems is beyond me. How much emissions is it going to prevent compared to all the trouble it makes? I bet all the emissions its purportedly saved has been wiped out by so many trips to the mechanic just to get that thing fixed!
Awesome video! Good job! Need more videos like this. Videos that are detailed and knowledgeable and actually informative and helpful.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to put this together very helpful in explaining the system which is similar if not the same on my 2002 CLK.
What a video man. Kudos this helped more than any forum. Thank you
Video was lots of help. Thanks for putting it on here. I had to replace the flap that opens and allows supercharged air in. It was stuck closed and ran terrible. And yes it was expensive. Just the part was around $400. You're right, don't start there unless you have to.lol
Thank you very much for the video. Very well explained. Now I know where to look for what's wrong.
I managed to remove the check valve quite easily using vice grips tightly clamped on the metal pipe just below the 27mm wrench point on the valve, then using the 27mm wrench with the vice grips as an anchor squeezing them both together to undo the valve.
This is a good detail of the air injection .
Thanks for the information, after driving my car from last fall until the shutdown without a problem, all of a sudden my CEL light comes on if I let the car sit at idle (it seems to happen only when I allow the car to idle for a few minutes)
It has not put the light on, but I think the car standing in the garage without being used may have caused the problem you are showing.
Great video and very good instructions! You helped me to repair my 2002 CLK C200. Thank You very much! My best wishes for You from Finland. Keep going :)
I've just readied my Secondary Air System test. I have a 2005 c230k. here's how I did it.
I've done it in the summer where the nights have a low of about 80 degrees F.
let car sit all afternoon into the night ( 8+ hours to cool engine down as much as possible).
start it and idle until Engine Cooland Temp reaches 160 degrees, should take 5+ minutes. may want to increase idle to 1200-1400 to increase temp.
You could also take it to a professional shop where they have those $1000+ Scanner tools to activate the Secondary Air so atleast you know its working.. its part of the Kompressor so its not a very loud noise as a regular pump would make. Even if you can hear it working tho, there is a chance that there is a problem down the line.
Very interesting and hope helpful for my slk 200 k which seems very similar to yours with p2036 error!!!
9:42 how did you un clog it I feel no air blowing out my exhaust when I do that ?
Just keep working on it until it breaks loose. Try penetrating oil but make sure you suck it out before you blow it through the catalytic converter. If it still doesn't work you'll probably have to have a shop replace that valve.
Good morning family and thank you for the valuable information 👍👍
Thanks for the vid! I did what you showed and I did have air flowing thru the exhaust pipe. I replaced the top valve but check engine light is still on. Do you have to drive for certain miles to see if the light will go off? Also, I read in the forums it could be the O2 sensor but the only code I'm seeing is the P0410
You will probably need to clear the code. If you don't have a an OBD2 scanner you can ask the to do it at Autozone or a repair shop.
My question is after you cleaned the second valve by the firewall how did you suck the dirt out with the vacuum?? I checked that the first valve was blowing air strong so I think my issue is with the second valve but I’m not sure how to clean it and don’t want to mess up my cat converter. Thanks
hey am Peter and I like this video, it's nice and it helps me understand how the secondary air is forced into the egr systerm( emission). but am a little bit confused how the actuator is connected below the intake manifold . I mean the egr electric valve actuator . I can see 1 line going into the valve suction point. but for the line below and the other at the top. am kind of confused about it . thanks
Do you happen to know the part number or name for the brass pipe that you connected compressor to? If you go under the car it’s connected to block itself and has a large bolt maybe 1” head connecting to block and my thought is if I can remove it I can clean it take off the pipe completely since I don’t have access to air
Sorry I don't know
I've been cleaning this valve on my car since 2008. I realized that cold start surging was caused by this valve sticking. I started removing and cleaning it randomly and then when I stopped, it started sticking and surging and losing power. Now I do it once a year. However, I lapsed and last cleaned the valve in 2013, now the valve stuck again while I was driving through the Alps. Was not fun at all to get up those mountains. Now I've got it soaking in carb cleaner downstairs, since the first clean a couple days ago worked, but it must have had so much sludge in there that it hardened again after the clean and stuck open. This design sucks, to be honest.
Sounds like a good thing I have a spare. Have you put WD40 in it after cleaning?
+Profectus no, don't want to risk it being so close to the cats and the O2 sensors. Will likely throw a drop or two of motor oil this time.
Hello dear
Im having oil in the intercooler and no one knows why and what i should i do if you know please help
Very nice explanation, understood The System for the First Time ;-)
I replaced both valves but still get Codes, now i will check the vacum lines... Agree with the checkvalve, Its a real mess to remove it, hat to build a Tool...
Thanks for the compliment. Glad I could help! Let me know if you're able to get to the bottom of your issue.
Do you have a pic of the tool you built to disassemble it? Thx!
Any chance you could give me the name of that copper/brass pipe that the second valve is connected to so I can buy it please?
One question is rough idle when engine is cold releated to this if that vacuum actuated valve is not working and it is always closed?
No. This system only affects emissions, not performance.
@@mikenewbry Ok is releated to check engine codes P0325 for knock sensor and P2007 sometimes i get this code and car has a loss of power for short time?
Thank you for the information. I have a 1999 C230. Hopefully it has the same valve setup 2.3 Kompressor. Similar codes. Hope mine is not the super charger. My car does go into limp mode but....only sometimes. 70% of the time it runs fine. 30% it bogs down. But I feel like I still haven't experienced the full power of the engine. I've run some StarTron enzyme fuel treatment and some full synthetic high mileage oil treatment fluid. It performed So much better ..but still the problem exists.. Bought 11 days ago.
Did you ever figure out the problem?
@@MalcombMedia1 unfortunately, no and it's been sitting not running for 2 years. I either need to come into a large chunk of money and get the whole thing fixed, or sell it off. It's such a shame...
@@CeeStyleDj I have '99 c230 kompressor with the PO410 & PO341 Are the valves easy to get to on the 99 model, and are they on the passengers side?
@@MalcombMedia1 well it's an inline 4-cylinder so everything is somewhat in the middle. Honest, I don't know if the valves are easy to get to but I seen someone partially take one of these engines apart and it didn't seem too hard you just need the right metric tools. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Does it have a relay even if it dont have the air pump??. My engine looks different my supercharger is on the intake manifold side.. The air valve seems to be located on the passenger side.. Im not sure.. Can u help me out?
Tks, but my problem does show up on the scan tools, but the main problem I have is misfire, 2-3 cylinder, but I change the coil and spark plus few month ago. I even check my injector is running fine, but idk why keep saying Mis and air, and someone is show up at Wastegate problem, if showing misfire I turn off and turn it back on then problem is gone
Please help im lost. I checked the electromagnetic check valve its working OK. I also have constant vaccum from the kompressor that connects to the solenoid. I cleant the denso control valve also OK. The check valve i replaced with a new one ( that you cleaned in the video). The problem is, i have no boost presure from the manifold that is bypassed before the the denso valve.
I assume a O2 sensor could be bad or the waste gate ( trottle body on manyfold side or near the kompressor is bad). There is no pressure in manifold for 30 sec.
Any ideas ? Could i try to reset the throttle bodies ?
Yesterday i turn on the car and after i've made 7 km, check engine light it appeared was the p0410 error... why after 7 km and not in first 30 secounds when the engine was turned on ? Can you help me please? I have c200 2.0 kompressor 163 Hp gasoline engine
That's not unusual for the CEL to come on after a delay of several miles.
The check valve intend to block reverse exhaust gas that extremely hot which could destroy shut off valve in short time. The check valve will severely clocked if your engine is abnormal burn fuel like running rich. The carbon deposit will build up faster. For me I think this design must be inspect check valve at least once per year.
The most convenient is to replace it a new expensive check valve.
Awesome vid, thank you! You helped me out a lot. We should be able to screw the damn thing off but I guess some sort of Mercedes tool is required... I cleaned it but I'm afraid it's too rusty. Let's hope for the best! Thanks again - Greetings from V in Belgium
Thanks for the video. It is good to see someone else's working ideas on the M111 engine and the dreaded 0410 code. I am doing the same myself at the moment. Following along with your sound logic I checked the vacuum at the servo input and output. In, yes. Out, no. The big question for me is where does the other line off the bottom of the servo go and what does it do? It seems to be a bigger vacuum line. Any ideas?
My 2005 c230 Kompressor is pulling 2047 any help ?
Hi so what the symptoms are for these p0410 and p2036 codes? I've just got obd2 Bluetooth thing and checked and I've got these codes but before I've checked I've never know that there is any problem with the engine. Is it worth trying fixing this if everything seems alright? Thanks guys
It doesn't affect the engine performance. It's only an emissions issue on startup. It won't do any damage if you leave it.
@@mikenewbry thanks mate i appreciate it, will see if it won't come up on the mot. I might need to get it done then so it can pass. But it's in a couple of months time 😀
The codes I have are p0410 and p0418 I all ready replaced the injector fuel pump. What are the next step i should do. I got a clk350
So if my 02 C coupe is going into limp mode with the p0410 code its most likely the throttle body over the supercharger not working? I replaced the check valves a few years back when I first had this issue but it seems now the actuator over the supercharger isn't working, when I have the hoses all disconnected from it to see it working, it doesn't move when someone gives it gas, but I relearn the positioning of the actuator I can see it move in neutral when someone is giving it gas.
Just trying to make sure I'm replacing the right part.
Thanks in advance.
Sergio Silva Yeah if you're not getting any boost when you're driving it's probably the SC bypass flap, but even then it might not be the flap itself. It could be something else triggering the failsafe in the ECU. Let me know if you figure it out.
My 2001 C200K M111 engine won't start properly. No consistency in the process. It might stall a bit at start up and loss of power while driving. Again, not all the time. I'm suspecting that the air flap might be the culprit. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Its either the wastegate/throtle body over the supercharger or the fuel pressure regulator valve on the fuel rail
Not doubting you, I have the same vehicle year and all, but the hose you have hooked up to the compressor I have air coming from it, not being sucked in. What would be the cause of that? Isn't air supposed to be going in not out? Maybe I misunderstood.
If you're talking about the brass tube that goes down to the exhaust, most likely its because someone destroyed the check valve and exhaust is back flowing.
@@mikenewbry I'm guessing that is bad, is it an immediate need to fix? Also how does something happen like that? I bought this vehicle this year and have no knowledge of the previous owners care or lack of.
Excellent video. Did it resolve the issue?
Yes, I had the car for a few years after that and didn't have that issue again. But eventually the supercharger failed and spit a bunch of metal into the engine so that was the end of that.
@@mikenewbry where are you in Utah? I’m in Riverton.
can you help me.I checked everithing but i havent 12v in the solenoid...from whre it takes info or 12??? pls help me
If you think it's an electrical issue you'll have to do all the usual electrical troubleshooting. Check fuses, relays wires etc. It's rare that an electrical issue would cause this problem.
What if i got the code "p2036 secondary air inlet". After resetting by car diagnose, car runs normally. Ater about 50km the engine losts power, it goes like without a supercharger, but i hear that charger is working. Is the issue could be bypass clap behind the supercharger? Or something else?
Sounds like the bypass flap is opening and putting the car in limp mode, so it's working properly, but you're going to have to find out the cause. It can be a lot of reasons that won't necessarily throw a check engine code.
@@mikenewbry so what to start with.. I already cleaned the throttle body, bypass flap, checked the connectors.:(
Hi! I have problems only in winter when outside temperature is 0°C or -°C. If I start the car in the morning, I have P2039 code and the engine loss power. After 10-15 minutes come codes P2036 and P0410. When the engine is warmed and I delete the codes, everything is OK and the power is back. When the temperature are +°C, everything is OK, I dont have fault codes... Can you help me please? CLK 200 Kompressor EVO, 120 kW, 2002
Hello,
do you resolve the above issue ?
@@abdelhadial-qudah5121 Hi, nope :(
Hi,
Thanks for the detailed demo. I followed the same and took out the vacuum tube from the valve, it solved the issue and the car started fine. After a while when I closed everything else except the tube on to the valve and used OBD2 to see the codes. There was still the p0410 which I erased. After that when I tried to start the car, the key stopped turning and hence I cannot start the car. Can you help. Thanks
There's nothing on the secondary air injection system that should completely disable the engine so I'm not sure what it could be. If the engine won't even turn over it sounds like an electrical issue and the only system close to where you would have been working is the throttle body. Sorry I'm not much help. Let me know if you figure it out.
Thanks budy,
I figured it as when the battery is disconnected and reconnected after a few seconds, the key turns and starts the car and you can drive. But when you press any buttons on key fob to lock when not in use, it goes back to same position. The key will not turn, hence again disconnect the battery and reconnect for the key to turn and start the car. Also you can only lock and unlock the car with emergency key as the fob does not work at all even after changing batteries. I'm amazed how the key is read fine by the ignition but not the central locking system. Any ideas....Awaiting your response
In order to test the whole system? Can I just turn on the air pump (connecting it to power) without turning on the engine and see if there's airflow at the exhaust pipe?
You need to watch the video again. I explained how there is no electric smog pump on a supercharged engine.
Profectus I have an 03 c320 that does have a pump since it's not a kopmressor.
i found water in my 2010 MBenz secondary air pump do you know why
ok I have the same car 02 Mercedes 230 komp what it does is starts runs just like you said runs for 30 secs then it stops ..when the car stops it makes this pump noise like a suck pop lots of air buing rush at once but it does it after the cars stops and my car does not have that whole othe throttle body and air filter just the one small round one
I have c240 model 2002 the car burn oil and smok suddenly ,i have only one. Fault p0400 exhaust gas recerculation. Plz help me.
Hassan Fouani could be dozens of possibilities, anything from a blown head gasket to a bad EGR valve.
Profectus bad EGR cause burn oil and huge smok suddenly?
My kompressor doesnt seem to work if i dont let the ignition stay on for about 20 secounds before i fire up the egnine. What could this be?
If i just twist the key all the way instantly my car has very love acceleration..
It's hard to say with limited information, but I would check the pressure in the fuel rail. There's a valve that holds pressure in the system after you turn engine off. If that wears out the fuel system has to re-pressurize before the engine will start.
Check your battery. When you turn the ignition on it powers all of your electronics. This may put a drain on your battery and if the battery is bad, then it may drain it too much to start it.
That was great I now have an idea and the info to tackle my error code Thanks for the video
I have a 2000 Mercedes S500. Will this be the same issue?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
I'm 99% sure it will be but I've only ever fixed it on my C-class
Thank you for your help and reply.
Neil Williams actually sorry I didn't pay attention to which of my videos you were commenting on. No, this will not work on your S500 unless it's a Kompressor model. Your car probably has an electric smog pump that needs to be fixed or replaced.
Thank you for your reply and help.
Man ,you are more than expert 👍
Hey bro can you please please PLEASE help me out!? I'm getting three codes. P0410 P0174 P0400. Starting with the first. I have a 2002 Mercedes-Benz C320 Base 3.2L. I'm getting p0410 cel code. I've tested the secondary air pump directly and it works perfectly. But when I go to check the voltage at the 40amp fuse, nothing. There is no power at all when the car is off or on, cold or hot. I pulled the relay and checked it and it is functioning perfect on all terminals with 0.001 resistance. Am I missing something here? Why would there be zero power at the fuse? Shouldn't the fuse have a constant 12v and be wired in BEFORE the relay? I'm just about ready to pull out the entire fuse panel and rewire the secondary air pump. Has anyone had this problem before? Tomorrow I will pull the egr valve and tube for cleaning. Hopefully this gets me somewhere on the P0400 and P0174 codes. Does anyone have a diagram of all vacuum lines on this vehicle? I've traced and replaced a few lines, but I am very sure I have a vacuum leak somewhere that I don't see. I do not have access to a smoke machine. But would the cigar technique work? If so, where should I be pushing smoke in?
Any help is greatly appreciated! I'm not sure what other relevant information I should include. But whatever I am lacking, please let me know and I will immediately go out to my vehicle to get it.
So if you have a Kompressor model Mercedes you don't have a smog pump?
Correct
Thank you Profectus
What's 'limp mode'?
thanks for the video,. thinking about buying one. would love to chat about the c230, want to get your opinion
I've enjoyed mine, but at the same time I'm always debating whether I should sell it. This is just one of MANY problems I've had. Of course it doesn't help that the dirtbag I bought it from lied to me about how many times it had been wrecked and other issues that he was aware of but lied about. Stupid me for trusting someone selling a car.
@@mikenewbry u know what p2023 is for an 03 s600??? Relay works.. pump comes up idk what it is
Hi there, i have the same issue and after i erase the fault code i have a huge difference in power.I checked the valves and they are ok...now what can the problem be?Should i erase all the time the error or what to do? thank you so much
Madalin Neculai Photography if your power is effected then you probably have an issue with the supercharger bypass flap.
this bypass flap is the one after supercharger? like the throttle right? and if this is the problem should i clean it or what to do?
Madalin Neculai Photography yeah that's it. Start with cleaning and lubricating. There's also a process for resetting the home position. I'll probably make a video about it in a few weeks but I know there's information out there. If all else fails replace it and hope it's not the ECU putting it in limp mode.
yeah, the point is after i delete the p0410 error all the power is restored and works perfect till the error comes back again....maybe some cleaning with carb cleaner will do the trick ....
Clearing the codes won't actually fix anything. That's by design. So figure out what's happening that's resetting it and that can give you a clue whether it needs to be replaced or not. Most likely it's just the time that the car is sitting with the engine off that's allowing either the ECU or the flap position to reset, not necessarily clearing the code. You can also try resetting it by doing the ECU throttle reset. Turn the power on but don't start the engine, hold the gas pedal all the way down for 5 seconds, turn the car off and wait 10 seconds (or sometimes 2 minutes). It might give you a temporary fix.
I sucked out the wd-40 out instead of blowing it out does that matter?
No just don't start a fire in your vacuum
Thank you soooooo much Friend same problem no answer until now thank you
HELP - dude i have the same engine and have 0-100 13.2 seconds... no fault codes, no misfire just power loss.
Thanks for the video!