Hi Mike....Thank you for the excellent video. I've really enjoyed your videos since I discovered them a few weeks ago. I also have a 66 and will be putting together my motor very soon, hopefully this winter, so your video's are very timely. In absence of using plastigage to measure the clearances, what would be the other method for measuring. Would you measure the diameter of the journals, and then subtract that from the measurement of the rod bore's using a dial bore gauge? I am learning as I go so thank you so much for this series!
Hello ak and welcome to the channel Yes the other measuring method would be using well a calibrated micrometer and dial bore gauge. You could put together your connecting rods with bearings installed and torqued to spec. Checking the inside area with a dial bore gauge in several locations to see what the measurements are. The crank can be measured checking the journals in several areas with a micrometer. The clearance specs for your car will be in the manual Cheers!
Terrific video, thank you! I haven't put a crank in in over two decades, so this was very nostalgic for me. A few questions, if I may. For one thing, do you have any problem with testing on the block? I'd always tested there, on a stand upside down. Problems were rare enough that the risk of having to take the pistons back out really wasn't that much. Also, I'd always placed the plasticgage **right on the top of the journal**, never off to the side like you did. I'd love to hear some elaboration on the idea, and maybe even to compare results.
Hello Dotan On an engine block car this would be done with the crankshaft in the block with pistons in and rotating as you go. On a porsche engine case it needs to be done out of the engine case because of how things assemble. Hence needing a stand. In the case of the Porsche. The connecting rods will be assembled without pistons and then placed into the case half. A bit different assembly order but principal is the same for block engines. Cheers!
G'Day from Sydney Australia. Never seen that method of checking tolerances on bearing surfaces. I suppose the residue of the thin plastic strip just rubs off from the surface ? What did you use to clean it, brake cleaner again ? Very interesting work mate.
Hi Mike, thanks for another great video update. Can you remember the name of the UK company you used ages ago for some of your nuts and bolts? Thanks, Alistair
Hello Alistair, Thank you I can't remember the name off hand but I think I did mention the company in the brake caliper rebuild video. You might poke through there as I think they were the reason for shopping abroad Good luck!
Hi Michael That’s the way I used to do it also.. It was just mentioning referring to Waynes book this way. No sure if it really makes that much difference but I thought I would share the info as Wayne mentions in his book. Either way there is a lot of forgiveness in the clearance. The consistency is what I’m really looking for.
Mike ... Fantastic detail as always ... 🙏👍
Thanks Andy!
Comme d’habitude du super boulot !! 🇫🇷 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you Bach Bach
Cheers!
Another fantastic video, thanks
Thanks mooney!
Good video Mike, i was only thinking about your car yesterday. First Aussie too. 🇦🇺
Thanks Resto!
Cheers mate=)
@@MikesRestorations Ha ha, on the mate aswell. 🤣
Hi Mike....Thank you for the excellent video. I've really enjoyed your videos since I discovered them a few weeks ago. I also have a 66 and will be putting together my motor very soon, hopefully this winter, so your video's are very timely. In absence of using plastigage to measure the clearances, what would be the other method for measuring. Would you measure the diameter of the journals, and then subtract that from the measurement of the rod bore's using a dial bore gauge? I am learning as I go so thank you so much for this series!
Hello ak and welcome to the channel
Yes the other measuring method would be using well a calibrated micrometer and dial bore gauge. You could put together your connecting rods with bearings installed and torqued to spec. Checking the inside area with a dial bore gauge in several locations to see what the measurements are. The crank can be measured checking the journals in several areas with a micrometer.
The clearance specs for your car will be in the manual
Cheers!
@@MikesRestorations Thank you for that Mike. I look forward to your future videos and applying the knowledge you've shared to my build.
Top 👍 comment d’habitude bonne journée
Thank you jean-philippe
Cheers!
Terrific video, thank you! I haven't put a crank in in over two decades, so this was very nostalgic for me. A few questions, if I may. For one thing, do you have any problem with testing on the block? I'd always tested there, on a stand upside down. Problems were rare enough that the risk of having to take the pistons back out really wasn't that much. Also, I'd always placed the plasticgage **right on the top of the journal**, never off to the side like you did. I'd love to hear some elaboration on the idea, and maybe even to compare results.
Hello Dotan
On an engine block car this would be done with the crankshaft in the block with pistons in and rotating as you go.
On a porsche engine case it needs to be done out of the engine case because of how things assemble.
Hence needing a stand.
In the case of the Porsche. The connecting rods will be assembled without pistons and then placed into the case half.
A bit different assembly order but principal is the same for block engines.
Cheers!
@@MikesRestorations I see, thank you.
G'Day from Sydney Australia. Never seen that method of checking tolerances on bearing surfaces. I suppose the residue of the thin plastic strip just rubs off from the surface ? What did you use to clean it, brake cleaner again ? Very interesting work mate.
Hello Graham
It's old school for sure but is still an excellent way to check rod and main bearings.
Comes right off with brake cleaner
Cheers!
Hi Mike, thanks for another great video update. Can you remember the name of the UK company you used ages ago for some of your nuts and bolts? Thanks, Alistair
Hello Alistair, Thank you
I can't remember the name off hand but I think I did mention the company in the brake caliper rebuild video. You might poke through there as I think they were the reason for shopping abroad
Good luck!
I've always thought the plastigauge should be applied at the centre of the rod, not off to one side?
Hi Michael
That’s the way I used to do it also..
It was just mentioning referring to Waynes book this way. No sure if it really makes that much difference but I thought I would share the info as Wayne mentions in his book. Either way there is a lot of forgiveness in the clearance. The consistency is what I’m really looking for.
Can you please provide a source for the L brackets you used on your jig?
Hi John
They are made by Simpson A24 strong ties.. Home depot should have them
Good Luck!
Can you tell me the height of that crank fixture?
Approximately 6 inches