Eric. I want to thank you for all of your videos. It seems every time I have a question while working on my vehicle, you have a video that clearly explains the answer. Thank you very much for all of the time you've spent making these videos!
It's such a relief to see a level-headed, clear-minded young man explaining and teaching a relatively complex subject; so, that the 'Average Joe/Jane' can understand it easily and well. Evidence that you know exactly what you're talking about. Very much appreciated. Thank you so much, Eric, for all that you do for us that benefit from your counsel. Blessings.
Thank you for making this so easy to understand!! I'm a 2nd year heavy duty apprentice and only due to the fact that I operated 1 type of machine for 6 winters. 2 years ago I was offered a chance to look after the machines and I accepted. I grew up an english/art nerd who struggled with scientific concepts and math so i am a fish out of water. My teachers do the best they can but it's videos like yours that really help. Looking forward to going down the rabbit hole on your channel.
Hi Eric, I'm a mechanic that could have been. Love Internal Combustion (IC) engines. So watching you applying the mechanics to an engine just fires my interest. Keep up the good videos mate. Garry from Australia
Just a few quick things I noticed: 1. It's easier to cut the plastigage instead of sliding the whole thing out. 2. I don't agree w/ torqueing the to spec as you are going to pull it right off. Torque spec is torque-to-yield meaning you can't reuse those bolts anymore (wasted money if you had used new ones) and only applies bolt stretch to help it not back up. 3. You make great vids Eric! Keep it up!
@@beetlejuice1239 Tighten it so it removes any clearances on the mating surfaces, but not to torque spec. Torque-to-yield actually stretches the bolt which doesn't help in the measurement process and that's why you have to replace them.
I was wondering the same thing, and thank you for confirming my thoughts. I figure as long as you tighten it enough so there is no gap between the rod end and rod, it should be fine. I was concerned because I am doing an engine and I had to buy all new bolts and didn't want to waste expensive bolts $6.60/ea to do a plastigage test. @@Diallo268
@@Diallo268I was thinking the same thing about the torque to yield, I think it would depend on if you’re actually using torque to yield bolts or not. Something like ARPs are reusable and usually come with their own guidelines on how to torque them down.
Thank you for all that you do. I am rebuilding a motorcycle engine and the spec. on the manual told me to use a plastiguage to measure the clearance on camshaft. I was unsure on how to use plastigauge until I saw your video. I just do this for fun as a hobby. And I have watched many of your tutorial on engines. I am Re-building my sons 2000 1100 shadow spirit that he purchased for 500. dollars and good old Dad has to fix it up for him. He paying for the parts. lol
Eric, thanks again for a clear to the point subject matter. Iron and aluminum blocks of different years have different specs as oil has dropped to 0W-5 synthetic that requires tighter clearances. But you covered that in your disclaimer. As time passes, GM has taken a very strict position on published specs which is part of their intellectual properties. They are shutting them down one by one. Note: I worked on contract labor in the field for over 7+ years and today, even tech’s change their user password often and monitor the IP addresses used by that PW and time of day. As a quick note, I have a 2003 iron block truck LS, but the production specs for the rods are 0.0009”-0.0025”, Service is 0.0009”-0.003” but also list 15 lb. ft. + 75 degree angle. Yours will very. Please folks, don’t give up as ACDelco.com can provide GM’s eSI (Electronic Service Information) for a fee, lasting 24 hrs or more if you desire. The advantage is updates, TSB, or Recalls can be updated with one key stroke. The same is true with programming modules if you have a shop. I had some programming modules wireless while the vehicle is in the parking lot. 1978 - ASE Master Tech - Retired Everyone, hit the like & subscribed!!!! Eric has some of the best videos on these subjects than many!
Shutting down publication of torque specs is such a moronic and backward viewpoint. But hey, anything so the customer can't actually work on their own vehicles. So much for "right to repair" laws - they just come up with a new way to block you at every turn unless you pay $500 for 24 hour access to shop manuals.
This was very informative and will come in handy when its time for me to work on my Corvair engine rebuild. Keep up the good work, we appreciate the videos.
This is the way to down vids... every time I watch Eric’s vids I enjoy watching, because the ample explanation and how clear with easiness of understanding.
Also noticed and next was closer to 90deg. Grrr on torque to yield and old-ass tool used. In fairness, torque angle is good, especially when using oiled, not oiled, anti-seized fasteners. GOOD video on plastigage. P
i want to say thank you Eric i have truck problems and this video is helping me out thank you and when i get my lil truck running and get back to work ima donate bro your videos are awesome ALL OF THEM i think your are very knowledgeable and you do nice production work for your videos you really show what and where things gotta happen thanks again
great video Eric, the basics are a really useful theme, keep them coming. Personally never knew what plastigage was or was used for, now I'm enlightened. Many thanks Eric.
Wish this video was around a few years ago when I was learning how to do this. I'm not sure why but I enjoyed this process when rebuilding an engine with new bearings etc. Probably because I was nearer the end of the rebuild process and everything was going back together. 25k miles the engines still going strong :).
Good vid. ;) I'd have mentioned to check journals at two positions 90 degrees apart. They tend to wear egg shaped; you might be fooled by one reading. I use micrometers on OD and telescopic gauges (snap gauges) on the ID. That way I use the same micrometer to measure both the ID and OD. Also, a set of telescopic gauges is much cheaper than a set of bore gauges. You might want do do a vid on measurement methods. Yeah, plastigage has been around since probably the Model-T days ;)
@@willburns1221 a insert is not round google it. the split is thinner to create a wedge of oil in the bearing. the only place to use plastigauge is 90 degrees from the split. you might mike the journal in four places but that is a little over the top i think.
Hello Eric, Plastigage actually very good for measuring journal clearances, much easier than using a caliper set that has multiple steps to calibrate and measure. I am working on a Toyota 2zz-ge rebuild and will plastigauge all bearings. Bummer is that I have measured bore and Toyota is asking for tolerances to 0.001mm, outside the range of my current calipers (max bore 82.013mm....with my tools I'm at 82.015 to 82.017 max....GRRR, and my tools only good to 0.01mm...estimated actual) P
Now that you've shown us the PlastiGage method, a video on using your pricey precision tools to do a better version of the same thing would be awesome. I've heard horror stories of Subaru engine rebuilds where only PlastiGage was used and spun, burned up bearings followed soon thereafter.
Great tool for a shade tree mechanic! Never heard of this stuff until I watched a recent video from PeterFinn the car doctor. Really interesting kit and seems accurate enough.
You need to get the snap-on toque digital wrench its amazing! you don't need that pain in the rear angle gauge. You can just change the setting to degrees and it works like a charm!
I place the bearing into the block and cap (rod & cap also) so that there is a slight protruding edge of the bearing on each side. This way, the bearing is properly seated into each half of the journal and that the two bearing mating surfaces will "crush" properly and evenly. This insures that the bearings will be evenly seated in each half of the journal when torqued down. Liberal engine assembly of course after plastigauging is completed.
Eric love the video can't stand how people nit pick your video's it help me use a plasticgauge cause I would be still looking for the plastic marking rod used to mark the Journal...LOL So Thanks and keep them coming..
ALWAYS ALWAYS put rod bearing in cap..... doing it the way you did can damage bearing. The bearing locks go lock to lock then you know rod cap is on right. Good video thanks.
Thanks for another informative video. I was hoping you would reference your take on reusing TTY bolts or not in everyday applications. That is one question, as a backyard mechanic, I haven't gotten a definitive answer on.
Thank you so much for your information I’m doing the same thing right now and this is the best video by far and how to use the plastic gauge again thank you so much
Kinda noticed you checked the clearance in inches but referenced your chart in millimeters, but it looks to be still in tolerance from .006 - .0024 thousands, since .0015 falls between the two. Still a great shape crank non the less
Eric makes me feel faked. 🙄 The installation of the bearing is totally wrong. Also the position of the plasticgage. The bearings aren't all over the same thickness ! 🙈🙈🙈🙈
Hello @@kraut-performance I am in the process of completely rebuilding a Toyota/Yamaha 2zz-ge engine. The problems I am encountering are the tolerances and my measurement tools. I have calipers and bore gauges, but only precise to +/- 0.01mm Tolerances in Toyota rebuild manual require higher precision. That being said, even with my primitive tools, my bore is egged and non-serviceable. Rings were worn, so I am taking a "risk", but believe they will be much better in the bore than the old worn rings that had a gap out-of-spec. All bearings looked passable, but replace with new factory spec 01 or 02 or 03 as noted on block vs using "generic fits all". I am now using Plastigage as final check because, as stated above, I do not have measuring tools precise enough to measure below 0.01mm. P
To really get an accurate measurement if your rod bolts are TTY, wouldn't you have to use a pair of new rod bolts so they for sure have the correct clamp load?
On those fractured caps you also need to be careful when handling them. Dont put the fractured side down on anything. Those things are such a precision fit that if you damage the face of that fractured surface just a little bit they not longer fit together like they suppose to. You will be able to assemble them and torque them but you caused a stress riser that can and has caused catastrophic engine failure.
Vary interesting as always. Would you happen to know if a reasonably well maintained 2006 1.4 petrol Polo at 100, 000 miles might be pron to small end wear. That is, light tapping noise much more pronounced under load almost disappears with no load.
great video, i’m curious because i am rebuilding an inline 4 that chewed up a couple of bearings via oil starvation. i don’t want to buy the wrong undersize or oversized bearings bearing when i go to take the measurements with a freshly turned crankshaft, so would i use the plastigauge on the least damaged bearings?
Thanks for the video Eric. I have just learnt something new. I'm not a mechanic but like to learn more about my car and how it functions. I had my diahatsu hijet connecting rod bearing changed because it made a loud sound, one was worn down. The oil light used to flick off and on and sometimes stay on. After having the bearing changed the noise is less but the light still comes on after driving for a short while. I heard you said that the if the clearance around the connecting rod is greater the oil pressure will be lower. Do you think I may be experiencing the same problem. If the torque requirements not meet could this be the reason for low oil pressure?
Hi Eric, thank you for this video. I disassembled my 1.8L and the Machinist said that the engine needs reboring. He said all the bottom end/rod bearings and crankshaft are in excellent condition. On reassembly, do i need to check clearance if i kept every thing in order and those parts were only cleaned and not machined?
Eric, I realize that this video is 9 or so years old. It is very informative, and the audio portion is very well done (many of these offer poor audio). However, and please take no offense........ I would like to point out that some of the language could use improvement. At 1:23 into the video, we measure "bores". At 1:47, these are micrometers! This tool is NOT used to measure the bore within a connecting rod. For that, we'd go back to the first precision instrument shown, a micrometer. That would be used to measure a connecting rod crankshaft journal. At 2:10, in order to measure a bearing's thickness, we would use a point-tip dial indicator (on a flat surface.... zero'd in) . Reason? The circular shape of the bearing would prevent an accurate measurement using a standard flat-tip micrometer. At 5:20, the large end of the connecting rod is freeze cracked via a special process. As you point out, this is to give the now fractured surfaces an absolute precision mate between the two. It is imperative that the two parts remain together (and indexed correctly), throughout their life. If these parts are not marked (as to being a matched pair), you will want to mark them. Great technology. At 7:10, oil pumps deliver more oil volume than required. Although excessive bearing clearance can reduce pressure, the actual oil pressure is determined by the oil pump's by-pass valve, with an influence via RPM. Lastly, thank you for calling this an Engine, and not a Motor. (my pet peeve!)
I rebuilt a engine over the summer and didn't replace cam bearings... Long story short I have great pressure when cold, then zero when warm. Its crazy how much bearing clearances matter!
Excellent video. I would think that I know how to read plastic age but I always defer to your videos as much as possible and of course I was reading it incorrectly. I was thinking the larger the squished plastic age the larger the gap. Just wasn't thinking through
Credit where credit is due, us yanks use plastigage, a cheap knockoff by Dana. You uk fellows invented the stuff for your navy in the 1950s, and the true name is plastigauge.
riley191919 I didnt know that, we all copy from each other and i dont think it matters in the long term, plastigauge looks handy for everyone :-)) Hey we copied your "Vise-grips", our copy was called "Mole grips" after the company that copied yours, a great tool made by clever americans :-))
Never used plastigauge before. Is the reading not affected by the fact that that there is still oil between the crank and the other rod bearing that you didn't clean?
this is the fist time i heard about the plastigage, i only search it in the youtube beacuse im taking up board-exams this year, and i want to understand it and see how it works. thanks to your video
oh bdw, our method of checking the clearance b/w the crankpin and bearing is by using soft soldering leads, and we use penetrant test for detecting cracks
Hey bud thanks for all the videos I do have a question there is a lot of crazy controversy on the LS forums but is it ok to pull them and do a visual inspection and then reinstall bearing, cap and same bolts?
I never seen anybody put bearing on journal first.Always install on cap first. Also torque to yield rod bolts should be replaced after they have been stretched.
You have to make sure the bearing is align right. I never seen anybody do it this way..As there is a vertical bearing crush. Where both side of the bearing must touch each other. I make sure I can feel the bearing sticking up on each end. You only need to drag your finger nail over them..That way you know the bearing is touching the other side..When you torque it down the first time. To get the proper crush alignment..If one side is sticking up higher. The bearing cap slips. Then the gauge will read wrong..
The torque specs PLUS additional torque in degrees stretches the bolt. This is correct for assembly BUT the bolts are designed to stretch with the additional degree torque. NEW bolts should be used each time or you overstretch the bolts.
Nice, I kind of have the same problem with the connecting rods in my 4.8 block and have those numbers on both the connecting rod and caps. Where can I find the information about those numbers from the connecting rods and their caps. Cause I just used plastigage to check my rod bearing clearance and plastigage was gone from during the check. Everything from crankshaft and bearings are standard size. What does that mean?
Hi Eric. I have an 84 F-150 that I built a high performance 351w for. Now before I ever started working on it I noticed that the oil pressure gauge would read correctly when cold, and as it warmed up it would drop, until it wouldn't read anything at idle. If I revved up the motor it would read 40 psi for that moment but drop back to nothing again when allowed to return to idle. Now fast forward.... New engine, new high volume oil pump, aftermarket gauge installed... Exact same problem still exists. When I first started the cold engine it's a solid 35-40 psi. After 15-20 minutes of regular driving the oil pressure begins to drop. When driving it will be about 17 psi, And then about 7 psi at idle. Before I installed the Equus gauge I had assumed that the gauge was inaccurate due to a poor electrical connection (the wire lead on top of the oil pressure sending unit being a little loose), but it's looking like that's not the case. Now I've put ALOT of time and money into this motor over the past 3 years and I definitely don't want to damage it. Possible malfunction of the oil pressure relief valve in two different oil pumps in a row?? After some research I read that 10 psi per 1000 rpm is a good rule of thumb. If that is correct then 5 psi at warm idle of 500 rpm would actually be correct as well as the 15 psi at 1500 rpm while driving AND the 35 psi at 3500 rpm. Do I have a problem or not!?
Great video, Eric. I have never replaced rod bearings, so I have a question. in this video, you measured the cap bearing but not the one between the crank and rod itself. Do you have to measure the one on the rod side, too? Also, can this procedure be performed while the engine is in the vehicle? Thanks in advance.
@Gary Jordan >Measuring under the rod cap is done a hundred times per day. To truly get an idea if the rods big end, measuring in two, three or four locations only adds to your accuracy of measuring a 360 degree circle. I will say in advance, it can be done, just do NOT rotate the crank as you will find it absolutely impossible to get the cap on or off doing thing it this way. Don’t get me wrong as some engines will be easier to perform this 2,3 or 4 position measurements. 1978 ASE Master Tech
Hey Eric . I have a few questions ! I have a b20z2 that I just had the valve lash done but I’m noticing a tapping sound after a few races . I have since re lashed the valves (no difference) and now have torn off the oil pan to check the rod bearings . Do you know if the b20 had issues with spinning bearings ? Can I replace them with out removing the engine . And lastly , would you recommend using the same nuts/bolts or purchasing new ones ? Thanks for all your help
Does it make any difference if you place the plastigage on the side of between con rod bearing and crank journal rather than in crank journal bearing to con rod cap bearing?
EricTheCarGuy @ 12:08 your indication is 75 degrees, not 85. I don't know how critical that is, but just wanted to be a second set of eyes on your measurement.
It would be good to see the plastigage method compared to that using the micrometer and bore gauge and see how similar/different the results are to determine how accurate plastigage is?
EricTheCarGuy I think that's a great idea, maybe some Eric The Car Guy and Scanner Danner teamwork to drop the LS in with full Electronic fuel injection and electronic transmission.
Hi. hello I have a chrysler town and country 2006 of 3.3 and started hitting a connecting rod. I want to replace only the metal that is wrong. What should be the measure of the new metal? the same? (is it standard) or the next measurement?
This 4 position method would also indicate the rod’s big end or crank, is out-of-round. This is where micrometers come out to measure the rod and crank. But with being said, it reveals more about the fit and accuracy with only plastigauge. This is the “Sealed Power” spells it, as the patent goes back the the 40’s. 1978 ASE Master Tech
i like how honda uses color coded bearings it helps to get your bearings precise but it also makes things more complicated and expensive since its $13 for a bearing half
I really like this one. I do have a question, Do you think there is a problem with actually coating the bearing journal with assembly lube while using the plasti-gauge? I have seen it done, not sure if it is advised.
Depending upon your application, it might be advantageous to use grease. I use grease if I'm checking a bearing that is still in the vehicle (and therefore upside down). Use a fresh tube of grease and clean your hands before you touch anything.
Eric. I want to thank you for all of your videos. It seems every time I have a question while working on my vehicle, you have a video that clearly explains the answer. Thank you very much for all of the time you've spent making these videos!
Just started rebuilding my 440 engine. I've been a subscriber to your channel for years. I TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR TIME AND EFFORT!!!
It's such a relief to see a level-headed, clear-minded young man explaining and teaching a relatively complex subject; so, that the 'Average Joe/Jane' can understand it easily and well. Evidence that you know exactly what you're talking about. Very much appreciated. Thank you so much, Eric, for all that you do for us that benefit from your counsel. Blessings.
Thank you for making this so easy to understand!! I'm a 2nd year heavy duty apprentice and only due to the fact that I operated 1 type of machine for 6 winters. 2 years ago I was offered a chance to look after the machines and I accepted. I grew up an english/art nerd who struggled with scientific concepts and math so i am a fish out of water. My teachers do the best they can but it's videos like yours that really help. Looking forward to going down the rabbit hole on your channel.
Hi Eric, I'm a mechanic that could have been. Love Internal Combustion (IC) engines. So watching you applying the mechanics to an engine just fires my interest. Keep up the good videos mate. Garry from Australia
Just a few quick things I noticed:
1. It's easier to cut the plastigage instead of sliding the whole thing out.
2. I don't agree w/ torqueing the to spec as you are going to pull it right off. Torque spec is torque-to-yield meaning you can't reuse those bolts anymore (wasted money if you had used new ones) and only applies bolt stretch to help it not back up.
3. You make great vids Eric! Keep it up!
Toluene whats the proper way of doing number 2? Without wasting anything?
@@beetlejuice1239 Tighten it so it removes any clearances on the mating surfaces, but not to torque spec. Torque-to-yield actually stretches the bolt which doesn't help in the measurement process and that's why you have to replace them.
I was wondering the same thing, and thank you for confirming my thoughts. I figure as long as you tighten it enough so there is no gap between the rod end and rod, it should be fine. I was concerned because I am doing an engine and I had to buy all new bolts and didn't want to waste expensive bolts $6.60/ea to do a plastigage test. @@Diallo268
@@Diallo268I was thinking the same thing about the torque to yield, I think it would depend on if you’re actually using torque to yield bolts or not. Something like ARPs are reusable and usually come with their own guidelines on how to torque them down.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a couple of Engines. This is a nice refresher for using the Plastigauge system.
Thank you for all that you do. I am rebuilding a motorcycle engine and the spec. on the manual told me to use a plastiguage to measure the clearance on camshaft. I was unsure on how to use plastigauge until I saw your video. I just do this for fun as a hobby. And I have watched many of your tutorial on engines. I am Re-building my sons 2000 1100 shadow spirit that he purchased for 500. dollars and good old Dad has to fix it up for him. He paying for the parts. lol
so 30 years after i overhauled my smallblock i finally learned the purpose of that plastic tool 😅
Oh me too wow
Eric, thanks again for a clear to the point subject matter. Iron and aluminum blocks of different years have different specs as oil has dropped to 0W-5 synthetic that requires tighter clearances. But you covered that in your disclaimer. As time passes, GM has taken a very strict position on published specs which is part of their intellectual properties. They are shutting them down one by one. Note: I worked on contract labor in the field for over 7+ years and today, even tech’s change their user password often and monitor the IP addresses used by that PW and time of day.
As a quick note, I have a 2003 iron block truck LS, but the production specs for the rods are 0.0009”-0.0025”, Service is 0.0009”-0.003” but also list 15 lb. ft. + 75 degree angle. Yours will very. Please folks, don’t give up as ACDelco.com can provide GM’s eSI (Electronic Service Information) for a fee, lasting 24 hrs or more if you desire. The advantage is updates, TSB, or Recalls can be updated with one key stroke. The same is true with programming modules if you have a shop. I had some programming modules wireless while the vehicle is in the parking lot.
1978 - ASE Master Tech - Retired Everyone, hit the like & subscribed!!!!
Eric has some of the best videos on these subjects than many!
Plasti-gauge has a patent going back to the 40’s. Just a note, it works if you don’t have 3k in “C” clamps with numbers on them.
Shells or points its the samething as demonstrated today
Ask jordan she didnt like it when the sas told her off 😂
Shutting down publication of torque specs is such a moronic and backward viewpoint. But hey, anything so the customer can't actually work on their own vehicles. So much for "right to repair" laws - they just come up with a new way to block you at every turn unless you pay $500 for 24 hour access to shop manuals.
This was very informative and will come in handy when its time for me to work on my Corvair engine rebuild.
Keep up the good work, we appreciate the videos.
This is the way to down vids... every time I watch Eric’s vids I enjoy watching, because the ample explanation and how clear with easiness of understanding.
12:06 did you notice it's at 75 not 85! might have come back a bit? anyways love your work as always
Also noticed and next was closer to 90deg.
Grrr on torque to yield and old-ass tool used.
In fairness, torque angle is good, especially when using oiled, not oiled, anti-seized fasteners.
GOOD video on plastigage.
P
Yup
It was at 85. The angle of the camera made it seem like it wasn’t in the right spot.
This is called 'parallax'.
I noticed and accounted for skew. All accounted for, I believe it would've still been between 15-20. At min it would've fit squarely in the 15.
I say "measure once, forget the measurement, cut twice, throw it away, and call it a day."
hell yeah
You're a piece of shit.
Andrew
if at first you don’t succeed fuck it
Andy, why are you the one covered in flies?
@@BILLZ62 yep if at first you dont succeed fuck its dad
i want to say thank you Eric i have truck problems and this video is helping me out thank you and when i get my lil truck running and get back to work ima donate bro your videos are awesome ALL OF THEM i think your are very knowledgeable and you do nice production work for your videos you really show what and where things gotta happen thanks again
great video Eric, the basics are a really useful theme, keep them coming. Personally never knew what plastigage was or was used for, now I'm enlightened. Many thanks Eric.
Wish this video was around a few years ago when I was learning how to do this. I'm not sure why but I enjoyed this process when rebuilding an engine with new bearings etc. Probably because I was nearer the end of the rebuild process and everything was going back together. 25k miles the engines still going strong :).
Great video... Been wrenching on my shitbox cars for years and never knew how to use Plastigage!
me too. the video was definitely helpful to me.
Good vid. ;)
I'd have mentioned to check journals at two positions 90 degrees apart. They tend to wear egg shaped; you might be fooled by one reading.
I use micrometers on OD and telescopic gauges (snap gauges) on the ID. That way I use the same micrometer to measure both the ID and OD. Also, a set of telescopic gauges is much cheaper than a set of bore gauges.
You might want do do a vid on measurement methods.
Yeah, plastigage has been around since probably the Model-T days ;)
I do it in 4 positions
@@willburns1221 a insert is not round google it. the split is thinner to create a wedge of oil in the bearing. the only place to use plastigauge is 90 degrees from the split. you might mike the journal in four places but that is a little over the top i think.
Hello Eric,
Plastigage actually very good for measuring journal clearances, much easier than using a caliper set that has multiple steps to calibrate and measure.
I am working on a Toyota 2zz-ge rebuild and will plastigauge all bearings. Bummer is that I have measured bore and Toyota is asking for tolerances to 0.001mm, outside the range of my current calipers (max bore 82.013mm....with my tools I'm at 82.015 to 82.017 max....GRRR, and my tools only good to 0.01mm...estimated actual)
P
I’ve rebuilt plenty of engines and that’s the right way to do it excellent video thank you
Thanks Eric. Always great to to see you out there. Take care.
Now that you've shown us the PlastiGage method, a video on using your pricey precision tools to do a better version of the same thing would be awesome.
I've heard horror stories of Subaru engine rebuilds where only PlastiGage was used and spun, burned up bearings followed soon thereafter.
SUBARU=JUNKYARD
Great tool for a shade tree mechanic! Never heard of this stuff until I watched a recent video from PeterFinn the car doctor. Really interesting kit and seems accurate enough.
accurate enough to be used for over 40 years or more.
Thanks Eric its the first time i really understand how to use plastigage great tutorial God bless mate
Thank you for ALL the great videos... I haven't used plastigauge since the 1980's....
You need to get the snap-on toque digital wrench its amazing!
you don't need that pain in the rear angle gauge.
You can just change the setting to degrees and it works like a charm!
I place the bearing into the block and cap (rod & cap also) so that there is a slight protruding edge of the bearing on each side. This way, the bearing is properly seated into each half of the journal and that the two bearing mating surfaces will "crush" properly and evenly. This insures that the bearings will be evenly seated in each half of the journal when torqued down. Liberal engine assembly of course after plastigauging is completed.
Thank you for making this video. Still helping people in 2020.
Eric love the video can't stand how people nit pick your video's it help me use a plasticgauge cause I would be still looking for the plastic marking rod used to mark the Journal...LOL So Thanks and keep them coming..
Thanks for the video. How do you clean the plastigage off of the bearing surface?
That is an awesome video im finding myself being confused with the precision tools I will use this information to make sure I'm doing it right
Thanks, I just bought some plastigage from e-bay, and now i know how to use it.
Thanks Eric. Very useful video and well explained.
Thank you Eric. I learned something new. I'm gonna apply this to a Subaru rebuild
🗑🤣🤣🤣
Some great knowledge! I remember working with my dad and uncle using this plastic gauge. Now I can truly understand! Thanks!
ALWAYS ALWAYS put rod bearing in cap..... doing it the way you did can damage bearing. The bearing locks go lock to lock then you know rod cap is on right. Good video thanks.
Never seen Yellow Plastigage before, but used Red & Blue in big diesels and worn oil pumps to check end clearance.
The video I keep coming back to. Thanks for the simple explanation.
Good video E. We learn something new every day do we not? Once again sir.... this video was produced very professionally. I liked it.
Awesome video Eric. These basics videos have been extremely helpful.
Thanks for another informative video. I was hoping you would reference your take on reusing TTY bolts or not in everyday applications. That is one question, as a backyard mechanic, I haven't gotten a definitive answer on.
Never reuse torque to yield bolts
Once is stretched is stretched much like my ex just never the same
Great video, explained very well...alot better than some other videos i seen.
Thank you so much for your information I’m doing the same thing right now and this is the best video by far and how to use the plastic gauge again thank you so much
Helped tremendously when installing a small engine rod....Many thanks!
I found a very interesting tool for front wheel alignment. Would be great if you could do a review of it. It's called trackace.
Great video. Very complete and spoken clearly. Definitely will subscribe.
Awesome video thank you Eric, keep up the great work!!!!
Great and informative video
Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺
Excellent presentation, thanks for clarifying the finer points.
Kinda noticed you checked the clearance in inches but referenced your chart in millimeters, but it looks to be still in tolerance from .006 - .0024 thousands, since .0015 falls between the two. Still a great shape crank non the less
excellent. you are a great teacher. just forwarded to one of my students!!
Our mechanics here in nigeria use the old-fashioned way of experience in measuring the torgue specs and clearance
Never saw bearings put in like that before. Usually I roll them into the cap then install the cap with the bearing already installed.
Shadow, you're doing it the proper way. Bearings should be installed into the cap and then put on as one piece, then torqued.
Eric makes me feel faked. 🙄
The installation of the bearing is totally wrong. Also the position of the plasticgage. The bearings aren't all over the same thickness ! 🙈🙈🙈🙈
Hello @@kraut-performance
I am in the process of completely rebuilding a Toyota/Yamaha 2zz-ge engine.
The problems I am encountering are the tolerances and my measurement tools. I have calipers and bore gauges, but only precise to +/- 0.01mm
Tolerances in Toyota rebuild manual require higher precision.
That being said, even with my primitive tools, my bore is egged and non-serviceable. Rings were worn, so I am taking a "risk", but believe they will be much better in the bore than the old worn rings that had a gap out-of-spec.
All bearings looked passable, but replace with new factory spec 01 or 02 or 03 as noted on block vs using "generic fits all".
I am now using Plastigage as final check because, as stated above, I do not have measuring tools precise enough to measure below 0.01mm.
P
LSmiata Hi. Did you finish your build, yet ?
Yeah I noticed that as well. Your way (really the only proper way) is the correct way Shadow.
To really get an accurate measurement if your rod bolts are TTY, wouldn't you have to use a pair of new rod bolts so they for sure have the correct clamp load?
On those fractured caps you also need to be careful when handling them. Dont put the fractured side down on anything. Those things are such a precision fit that if you damage the face of that fractured surface just a little bit they not longer fit together like they suppose to. You will be able to assemble them and torque them but you caused a stress riser that can and has caused catastrophic engine failure.
Vary interesting as always. Would you happen to know if a reasonably well maintained 2006 1.4 petrol Polo at 100, 000 miles might be pron to small end wear. That is, light tapping noise much more pronounced under load almost disappears with no load.
great video, i’m curious because i am rebuilding an inline 4 that chewed up a couple of bearings via oil starvation. i don’t want to buy the wrong undersize or oversized bearings bearing when i go to take the measurements with a freshly turned crankshaft, so would i use the plastigauge on the least damaged bearings?
Thanks for the video Eric. I have just learnt something new. I'm not a mechanic but like to learn more about my car and how it functions. I had my diahatsu hijet connecting rod bearing changed because it made a loud sound, one was worn down. The oil light used to flick off and on and sometimes stay on. After having the bearing changed the noise is less but the light still comes on after driving for a short while. I heard you said that the if the clearance around the connecting rod is greater the oil pressure will be lower. Do you think I may be experiencing the same problem. If the torque requirements not meet could this be the reason for low oil pressure?
Hi Eric, thank you for this video. I disassembled my 1.8L and the Machinist said that the engine needs reboring. He said all the bottom end/rod bearings and crankshaft are in excellent condition. On reassembly, do i need to check clearance if i kept every thing in order and those parts were only cleaned and not machined?
Eric, I realize that this video is 9 or so years old.
It is very informative, and the audio portion is very well done (many of these offer poor audio).
However, and please take no offense........ I would like to point out that some of the language could use improvement.
At 1:23 into the video, we measure "bores".
At 1:47, these are micrometers! This tool is NOT used to measure the bore within a connecting rod.
For that, we'd go back to the first precision instrument shown, a micrometer. That would be used to measure a connecting rod crankshaft journal.
At 2:10, in order to measure a bearing's thickness, we would use a point-tip dial indicator (on a flat surface.... zero'd in) .
Reason? The circular shape of the bearing would prevent an accurate measurement using a standard flat-tip micrometer.
At 5:20, the large end of the connecting rod is freeze cracked via a special process. As you point out, this is to give the now fractured surfaces an absolute precision mate between the two. It is imperative that the two parts remain together (and indexed correctly), throughout their life. If these parts are not marked (as to being a matched pair), you will want to mark them.
Great technology.
At 7:10, oil pumps deliver more oil volume than required. Although excessive bearing clearance can reduce pressure, the actual oil pressure is determined by the oil pump's by-pass valve, with an influence via RPM.
Lastly, thank you for calling this an Engine, and not a Motor. (my pet peeve!)
I rebuilt a engine over the summer and didn't replace cam bearings... Long story short I have great pressure when cold, then zero when warm. Its crazy how much bearing clearances matter!
Excellent video. I would think that I know how to read plastic age but I always defer to your videos as much as possible and of course I was reading it incorrectly. I was thinking the larger the squished plastic age the larger the gap. Just wasn't thinking through
Smashing but simple tool eric :-), you also have some really nice precision ones, nice to have a standard you can rely on :-).
Credit where credit is due, us yanks use plastigage, a cheap knockoff by Dana. You uk fellows invented the stuff for your navy in the 1950s, and the true name is plastigauge.
riley191919
I didnt know that, we all copy from each other and i dont think it matters in the long term, plastigauge looks handy for everyone :-))
Hey we copied your "Vise-grips", our copy was called "Mole grips" after the company that copied yours, a great tool made by clever americans :-))
Hi Eric to take the right clearance it's with the old one and from there get the clearance numbers for the new bearing?🤔🤔
Good video as I'm working on a Jeep TJ rebuild. What if the Pastigage shows the bearing clearance to be out of the required specification?
Hi, Eric thank you so much for this video and it's really helpful please keep doing more videos like this.
Never used plastigauge before. Is the reading not affected by the fact that that there is still oil between the crank and the other rod bearing that you didn't clean?
this is the fist time i heard about the plastigage, i only search it in the youtube beacuse im taking up board-exams this year, and i want to understand it and see how it works. thanks to your video
oh bdw, our method of checking the clearance b/w the crankpin and bearing is by using soft soldering leads, and we use penetrant test for detecting cracks
Amazing Eric, love you work , cheers
Hey bud thanks for all the videos I do have a question there is a lot of crazy controversy on the LS forums but is it ok to pull them and do a visual inspection and then reinstall bearing, cap and same bolts?
Hi Eric thank you for the fantastic tips!
always place the bearings into the rod caps before u install them.
I never seen anybody put bearing on journal first.Always install on cap first.
Also torque to yield rod bolts should be replaced after they have been stretched.
You have to make sure the bearing is align right. I never seen anybody do it this way..As there is a vertical bearing crush. Where both side of the bearing must touch each other. I make sure I can feel the bearing sticking up on each end. You only need to drag your finger nail over them..That way you know the bearing is touching the other side..When you torque it down the first time. To get the proper crush alignment..If one side is sticking up higher. The bearing cap slips. Then the gauge will read wrong..
The torque specs PLUS additional torque in degrees stretches the bolt. This is correct for assembly BUT the bolts are designed to stretch with the additional degree torque. NEW bolts should be used each time or you overstretch the bolts.
Nice, I kind of have the same problem with the connecting rods in my 4.8 block and have those numbers on both the connecting rod and caps. Where can I find the information about those numbers from the connecting rods and their caps. Cause I just used plastigage to check my rod bearing clearance and plastigage was gone from during the check. Everything from crankshaft and bearings are standard size. What does that mean?
You did it again boss 👍🏻
Hi Eric. I have an 84 F-150 that I built a high performance 351w for. Now before I ever started working on it I noticed that the oil pressure gauge would read correctly when cold, and as it warmed up it would drop, until it wouldn't read anything at idle. If I revved up the motor it would read 40 psi for that moment but drop back to nothing again when allowed to return to idle. Now fast forward.... New engine, new high volume oil pump, aftermarket gauge installed... Exact same problem still exists. When I first started the cold engine it's a solid 35-40 psi. After 15-20 minutes of regular driving the oil pressure begins to drop. When driving it will be about 17 psi, And then about 7 psi at idle. Before I installed the Equus gauge I had assumed that the gauge was inaccurate due to a poor electrical connection (the wire lead on top of the oil pressure sending unit being a little loose), but it's looking like that's not the case. Now I've put ALOT of time and money into this motor over the past 3 years and I definitely don't want to damage it. Possible malfunction of the oil pressure relief valve in two different oil pumps in a row?? After some research I read that 10 psi per 1000 rpm is a good rule of thumb. If that is correct then 5 psi at warm idle of 500 rpm would actually be correct as well as the 15 psi at 1500 rpm while driving AND the 35 psi at 3500 rpm.
Do I have a problem or not!?
You're bearings are shit!
QUESTION: wouldnt the thickness actually be divided by 2 - since it is indicating the entire gap/difference in diameter?
Great video, Eric. I have never replaced rod bearings, so I have a question.
in this video, you measured the cap bearing but not the one between the crank and rod itself. Do you have to measure the one on the rod side, too? Also, can this procedure be performed while the engine is in the vehicle? Thanks in advance.
@Gary Jordan >Measuring under the rod cap is done a hundred times per day. To truly get an idea if the rods big end, measuring in two, three or four locations only adds to your accuracy of measuring a 360 degree circle. I will say in advance, it can be done, just do NOT rotate the crank as you will find it absolutely impossible to get the cap on or off doing thing it this way. Don’t get me wrong as some engines will be easier to perform this 2,3 or 4 position measurements.
1978 ASE Master Tech
Eric... I love you man
Thanks eric... Im in the process of fixing rod knock on mybevo MR 2010... Rather, in the process of finding damages.
Hey Eric . I have a few questions ! I have a b20z2 that I just had the valve lash done but I’m noticing a tapping sound after a few races . I have since re lashed the valves (no difference) and now have torn off the oil pan to check the rod bearings . Do you know if the b20 had issues with spinning bearings ? Can I replace them with out removing the engine . And lastly , would you recommend using the same nuts/bolts or purchasing new ones ? Thanks for all your help
Does it make any difference if you place the plastigage on the side of between con rod bearing and crank journal rather than in crank journal bearing to con rod cap bearing?
sir explain about shims adding procedure on this type of connecting rod.and where we can add shims for reducing clearance on cylinder chamber.
are they stretch bolt like they use in heads.i did the same tork doing head gaskets on my 3.1 but had too use new bolts thanks for the info. mike
EricTheCarGuy @ 12:08 your indication is 75 degrees, not 85. I don't know how critical that is, but just wanted to be a second set of eyes on your measurement.
Tributary House Ltd. 😂😂😂
Did you take the crank out afterwards to clean it, meening you would also still have only oil on the mains at this point and not assembly lube?
buen video teacher mi respeto amigo
It would be good to see the plastigage method compared to that using the micrometer and bore gauge and see how similar/different the results are to determine how accurate plastigage is?
If you wanted everybody to hate you, you could rebuild this LS engine and put it in the fairmont.
I know right?
EricTheCarGuy I think that's a great idea, maybe some Eric The Car Guy and Scanner Danner teamwork to drop the LS in with full Electronic fuel injection and electronic transmission.
my ex neighbor had a astrovan with a 350. probably my favorite car of all time in person.
Thank you, your video was very informative!
Good video Eric. do you actually add the stretch angle or just the torque will do? that means bolts can be used once.
That means I still can use new standar bearings? Thanks for that video
Hi. hello I have a chrysler town and country 2006 of 3.3 and started hitting a connecting rod. I want to replace only the metal that is wrong. What should be the measure of the new metal? the same? (is it standard) or the next measurement?
When i do my rod clearances, do i have to measure each bearing half with plastigauge? So i'd be making 8 measurements (4x cap side, 4x rod side)?
You don't HAVE TO, but it could show any machining errors. Or errors in the bearing manufacturing.
This 4 position method would also indicate the rod’s big end or crank, is out-of-round. This is where micrometers come out to measure the rod and crank. But with being said, it reveals more about the fit and accuracy with only plastigauge. This is the “Sealed Power” spells it, as the patent goes back the the 40’s.
1978 ASE Master Tech
i like how honda uses color coded bearings it helps to get your bearings precise but it also makes things more complicated and expensive since its $13 for a bearing half
I really like this one. I do have a question, Do you think there is a problem with actually coating the bearing journal with assembly lube while using the plasti-gauge? I have seen it done, not sure if it is advised.
Depending upon your application, it might be advantageous to use grease. I use grease if I'm checking a bearing that is still in the vehicle (and therefore upside down). Use a fresh tube of grease and clean your hands before you touch anything.
Nice job Eric you're the bomb brother
Very interesting so what is plastiguage made out of is it plastic or wax?
My new engine has been measured at the engine shop is it a good idea to still check with plastic gauge