I'm guessing this is the reason why my 2015 Chevy SS Sedan is having the dreaded "low oil pressure" indicator. I've replaced the oil pump, oil pressure sensor, and it's still reading that indicator off to me in my car. This was very a helpful, knowledgeable video. Now I know what needs to be done to fix my car!💯 thank you Summit Racing
I just ordered one of the Summit Cam Bearing tools! They are backordered but that's not a big deal for me. Since I'll forget that I placed the order anyway it'll be a surprise. A late Christmas Gift to yours truly aka me.
You're absolutely correct...they should go in dry just like crank and rod bearings. Greasing them is just asking for a spun bearing. There's no need for it anyway. Put them in dry.
@@reggierendert6494 The instructions on the box says to lube the cam bearings. I called them they said to follow the instructions. Methods do change over time.
@@rastaman7260 Block materials do as well. In the past, small blocks were invariably cast iron. Aluminum became more common with the LS engines. And now, all small blocks produced are aluminum. Installing a cam bearing dry into aluminum is asking for trouble.
I just installed my cam bearings, gen 3, lq4, but the bores in the block has chamfer bevels in only 1direction. I don't remember which ones now but it was either one and two or four and five that had to enter from the front.
So if I understand correctly, the bearing positions go from front to back, 1 being the bearing next to the water pump and 5 being the one closest to the bell housing?
yeah watch the first three were done from the rear to keep the bar as centered as possible. Thats what they're explaining at 6:00. they flip the block and install the back two bearings from the front to keep the tool centered
That's great for an iron block but cold shrinking bearings for slide in fit is preferred for alloy blocks, banging metal backed bearings into any alloy block not good as any galling even the slightest can cause issues and losing crush in alloy block not desirable as they expand so much more than iron blocks at operating temps, so dry ice or if can get some liquid nitrogen and shrink bearings for any easy fit and when bearing expands it grabs alloy block better, if using liquid nitrogen be gentle and don't drop as babbit can flake off, i have never seen an LS cam bearing move using this method but you do what you think works for you
I'd go so far as to install them cold and using a shop press with the block standing on end. I get that not everybody has a press with that kind of clearance. But if you're skilled enough to rebuild an entire engine, you aught to be able to cobble something together with a bottle jack.
I've noticed Summit that you have not replied to any of the questions or comments about the cam bearings going in dry, why not? Cam bearings are suppose to go in dry because if not then that allows for the bearing to possibly spin much easier and the bearing to either stay stuck to the cam journal or spin out of the cam bearing journal in the block and walk out of the journal and cause a lot if damage or commonly referred to as a "spun bearing". Can you clarify why you used assembly lube and wether or not if it is correct to use lube or tap them in dry?
Thank you for your question. We did some research on this prior. Different bearing companies have opposing views. The light oil on the back of the bearing will not impact its ability to remain in place. The majority of it squeezes out as the bearing goes into the bore. The damage of a galled bearing backing from installing dry along with scraping material off the back is the reason we choose oil.
@@reggierendert6494 I solved this problem based on tips from really "Old Timers" and their tips and tricks. Works as a Lube and hardens to "glue" the bearing in. They and I use "Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound".. It's messy, but cleans up great with carb cleaned when done. Just be sure to verify none is in the oil journal hole, and it works like a dream. Most of these guys are dead now, but they were the ones pioneering racing back in the 40s, 50s, and 60s.. Never once did any of the "tips" advice they gave me cause harm and they always worked. If you've never tried it. Next "junk" block you have, pop out the old bearings, and reinstall them using the compound on 1 or 2. You'll feel them slide right in. Give it a few days then bang them back out. It's HARD to get them out when that stuff cures. I've NEVER seen one spun after doing that
@@reggierendert6494 I take it you haven’t worked with aluminum blocks. For iron, dry is fine. But you risk damaging the bearing bores in an aluminum block if you install the bearings dry.
5:05 I'm pretty sure you should heat up the block and cool the bearing so you don't accidently mushroom the bearing & block and mainly to utilize thermal expansion, and contraction, it will go in without Binding
While this is a good video, I think a major portion of the install was missed and that is the proper way to align the oil hole to the oil channel in the cam bore. Maybe it was just tough to show with a camera.
Maybe on an iron block. But if you install cam bearings dry into an aluminum block, you will gall the aluminum on block, which will cause the bearing to either go in crooked or become deformed by the metal buildup between the bearing and block. You could also seriously gouge the block, which would require line boring and oversized bearings. Dry installation is for IRON BLOCKS, not aluminum.
I've heard of blue and green Loctite, ATF, assembly lube, and now differences between iron and aluminum. Would of figured somebody had the definitive answer.
So I'm sitting here looking at my 6.2L L92 block that I just removed the stock cam bearings. In the bores where the cam bearings go, there is only a chamfer on one side of the bore (which is the side the bearings were just knocked out from). The other side of the bore has nothing to help guide the bearing in straight so your process in this video to install the bearings would not work. Now I am questioning "are all LS motors the same way with the single chamfer on one side of the bore?" If that's the case, then you're telling people to install the bearings from the wrong side in your install process.
I like my exspandable driver. It's never let me down and it works on everything. Gotta drive them straight though. If you put it on the stand right? You can drive them both ways on the stand.
some of the expandable ones do not have sufficient step on them for the tapered LS bearings and will damage the edges of the bearing babbit. gotta be careful
Thank you for your question. In general, the tool needs to needs to be the farthest away from the bearing being installed for best alignment. Meaning, the rear cam bearings would be installed with the cam in the front and the front cam bearings being installed with the tool at the back.
So can the cam bearings be pushed in or out either way? Like there is no taper or anything in the cam bore is there? Also if you overshoot installing it from one side, can you just tap it back the other way with the installer?
Thank you for your question. The O.D. of the bearings change, but the I.D.’s will be the same. They can go in from either direction, but you will find going in from the opposite side gives you the best alignment. If you do go too far, yes it’s acceptable to just tap it backwards from that side.
Im getting ready to order this tool, a machine shop used the universal tool to install my besrings and atleast one is crooked. Is it safe to install a new set of bearings in my aluminum ls block, and not fear spinning a bearing. My journals were within spec originally.
During any engine build, the main bearing clearances should be checked using a dial bore gauge with the main bearing caps torqued to spec. Watch this video for more information. th-cam.com/video/WYx-de7cyxs/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for your question. Theoretically everything clears, but getting in to change mandrel and check oil hole aligment with the crank in place is going to be very tricky at best.
Sometimes, I notice that other guys don't put cam lube on the outside of the bearings.Also,they don't wear gloves.Please re enforce the necessity of doing this!
Thank you for your question. We think you may mean the SH-2125’s which are used for the cam housing bores from 2004 forward. Your SH-1814’s are for the 1997-03 models. It’s not easy to tell how old a salvage block is, but luckily even a dial caliper does the job. The individual cam bearings used in these sets differ by which bore they are in and have different part numbers even within the same set. Mike gets into this around the 2:15 mark.
Why's that tool so long? It seems to me that it's almost twice as long as it needs to be, and aught to work fine if it were shorter. From a manufacturing perspective, nobody's going to make something with more material than needed unless there's a reason. So it must be intentional, but I'm just not seeing it... Is the same tool made for longer blocks, or something?
Thank you for your question. The basic method to installing cam bearings will be the same for any gen. 3, 4 or 5 engine but the LM7 was used from 1999-2007. This means you will need to verify if you have the late 2003 and later block with the different cam housing bore. Here are the specs for each and you will need to order the appropriate cam bearing set we mentioned.
You NEVER want to install bearings dry into an aluminum block! Doing so can gall the aluminum, cause the bearing to install crooked, and (worst of all) damage the bore in your block! Remember, aluminum is very soft, and you are installing a bearing with an interference fit. While no lubrication is fine with iron, it can EASILY damage aluminum.
@@nsmturbo5902 Here’s something else to consider. Even if you install the bearings dry, it is inevitable that oil is going to make its way into the nooks and crannies between the bearing and the block. Oil can easily seep into small spaces. And in the case of cam bearings, they even have a supply of pressurized oil.
Was it an aluminum or an iron block? Half the folks on the comments are saying lube on only the aluminum block. Heard some GM dealers and machine shops install cam bearings work with Loctite because the #2 bearing was prone to slipping but that must of been iron blocks.
Everyone saying the bearings must go in dry is a moron, do you think something with a Press fit that tight is going to have space to have lubrication in between to “SPIN” a bearing? Do you think this is a balljoint in its socket? Lol and if you “SPIN” a bearing something was misaligned and caused the cam to hook the bearing
Please do not grease/oil the outside of any of your bearings. It can mess up your tolerances, and worst case you could spin a bearing. Not as dangerous on a cam bearing, but still not worth the risk.
@@Desert_guy The manufacturers specify that you should not place oil or grease between the block and the bearing. Doing so can decrease your tolerances, and in worst case scenarios you can spin your bearings. Most if not all bushing style bearings must be placed in a clean, dry block. Grease and oil are for lubrication, you don't need to lubricate something that will not see friction. Greasing the inner side of the bearing is almost always recommended.
The reason we replaced cam bearings was because the block had some machine work done to it and we wanted to be sure it was absolutely clean. That’s the only way to insure there is no debris in those galleys and grooves that could come loose and cause a problem once the engine is up and running.
Really great info here!
Thank you for watching! We appreciate the feedback, especially from one of our favorite channels.
Thanxs for explaining which bearing goes where nobody else I've seen bringing this up cam bering p
Thanks for watching!
Used this tool today with a gen 3 block..Worked fine..
Even on an aluminum block?
Valuable information for when I pull a junkyard LS! 🔧😼🔧
Great! Thank you for watching. Let us know if you need help when you get your junkyard LS!
I'm guessing this is the reason why my 2015 Chevy SS Sedan is having the dreaded "low oil pressure" indicator. I've replaced the oil pump, oil pressure sensor, and it's still reading that indicator off to me in my car. This was very a helpful, knowledgeable video. Now I know what needs to be done to fix my car!💯 thank you Summit Racing
Update?
Very very common
I just ordered one of the Summit Cam Bearing tools! They are backordered but that's not a big deal for me. Since I'll forget that I placed the order anyway it'll be a surprise. A late Christmas Gift to yours truly aka me.
Haha! We apologize for the inconvenience. We appreciate your business!
Love Summits products and delivery service. You guys rock!
Thank you! We appreciate your business.
I've been wanting that tool. excellent content.
Thank you for watching!
I thought you were supposed to put the bearings in dry. Never heard of that before.
Thats what I thought. Im here because my 5.3 is spinning a cam bearing. They must have greased the cam bearing to install them.
Same here, now I’m terrified to put these bearings in, thanks Summit 👍
You're absolutely correct...they should go in dry just like crank and rod bearings. Greasing them is just asking for a spun bearing. There's no need for it anyway. Put them in dry.
@@reggierendert6494 The instructions on the box says to lube the cam bearings. I called them they said to follow the instructions. Methods do change over time.
@@rastaman7260 Block materials do as well. In the past, small blocks were invariably cast iron. Aluminum became more common with the LS engines. And now, all small blocks produced are aluminum. Installing a cam bearing dry into aluminum is asking for trouble.
I just installed my cam bearings, gen 3, lq4, but the bores in the block has chamfer bevels in only 1direction.
I don't remember which ones now but it was either one and two or four and five that had to enter from the front.
So if I understand correctly, the bearing positions go from front to back, 1 being the bearing next to the water pump and 5 being the one closest to the bell housing?
yeah watch the first three were done from the rear to keep the bar as centered as possible. Thats what they're explaining at 6:00. they flip the block and install the back two bearings from the front to keep the tool centered
Does it take 2 to install?
That's great for an iron block but cold shrinking bearings for slide in fit is preferred for alloy blocks, banging metal backed bearings into any alloy block not good as any galling even the slightest can cause issues and losing crush in alloy block not desirable as they expand so much more than iron blocks at operating temps, so dry ice or if can get some liquid nitrogen and shrink bearings for any easy fit and when bearing expands it grabs alloy block better, if using liquid nitrogen be gentle and don't drop as babbit can flake off, i have never seen an LS cam bearing move using this method but you do what you think works for you
I'd go so far as to install them cold and using a shop press with the block standing on end. I get that not everybody has a press with that kind of clearance. But if you're skilled enough to rebuild an entire engine, you aught to be able to cobble something together with a bottle jack.
This, of course, would be ideal. But for those of us who don’t have this option, using a lube is MUCH better than installing them dry.
Most excellent tool
Thank you for watching, Travis!
Do not grease the outside of the cam bearing. You run the risk of spinning the cam bearing. It goes in relatively easy without grease
I've noticed Summit that you have not replied to any of the questions or comments about the cam bearings going in dry, why not? Cam bearings are suppose to go in dry because if not then that allows for the bearing to possibly spin much easier and the bearing to either stay stuck to the cam journal or spin out of the cam bearing journal in the block and walk out of the journal and cause a lot if damage or commonly referred to as a "spun bearing". Can you clarify why you used assembly lube and wether or not if it is correct to use lube or tap them in dry?
Thank you for your question. We did some research on this prior. Different bearing companies have opposing views. The light oil on the back of the bearing will not impact its ability to remain in place. The majority of it squeezes out as the bearing goes into the bore. The damage of a galled bearing backing from installing dry along with scraping material off the back is the reason we choose oil.
Going by the opinions of guys with a lifetime of experience...I put them in dry.
@@reggierendert6494 I solved this problem based on tips from really "Old Timers" and their tips and tricks. Works as a Lube and hardens to "glue" the bearing in. They and I use "Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound"..
It's messy, but cleans up great with carb cleaned when done. Just be sure to verify none is in the oil journal hole, and it works like a dream. Most of these guys are dead now, but they were the ones pioneering racing back in the 40s, 50s, and 60s.. Never once did any of the "tips" advice they gave me cause harm and they always worked.
If you've never tried it. Next "junk" block you have, pop out the old bearings, and reinstall them using the compound on 1 or 2. You'll feel them slide right in. Give it a few days then bang them back out. It's HARD to get them out when that stuff cures. I've NEVER seen one spun after doing that
@@reggierendert6494 I take it you haven’t worked with aluminum blocks. For iron, dry is fine. But you risk damaging the bearing bores in an aluminum block if you install the bearings dry.
WD-40 is all you need
5:05 I'm pretty sure you should heat up the block and cool the bearing so you don't accidently mushroom the bearing & block and mainly to utilize thermal expansion, and contraction, it will go in without Binding
While this is a good video, I think a major portion of the install was missed and that is the proper way to align the oil hole to the oil channel in the cam bore. Maybe it was just tough to show with a camera.
I've watched a lot of these install videos, they've all skipped that part for some reason.
Aren't cam bearings suppose to go in dry? Or does it not matter anymore.
They're definitely supposed to go in dry.
Yes, they should go in dry.
I use wd-40. I use that on any press fit
You should NOT lube the bearing before install. And you also need to check end play
Maybe on an iron block. But if you install cam bearings dry into an aluminum block, you will gall the aluminum on block, which will cause the bearing to either go in crooked or become deformed by the metal buildup between the bearing and block. You could also seriously gouge the block, which would require line boring and oversized bearings. Dry installation is for IRON BLOCKS, not aluminum.
I've heard of blue and green Loctite, ATF, assembly lube, and now differences between iron and aluminum. Would of figured somebody had the definitive answer.
So I'm sitting here looking at my 6.2L L92 block that I just removed the stock cam bearings. In the bores where the cam bearings go, there is only a chamfer on one side of the bore (which is the side the bearings were just knocked out from). The other side of the bore has nothing to help guide the bearing in straight so your process in this video to install the bearings would not work. Now I am questioning "are all LS motors the same way with the single chamfer on one side of the bore?" If that's the case, then you're telling people to install the bearings from the wrong side in your install process.
You gotta try that with the engine STILL in the car.
i still like my expandable cam bearing tool
What about the position of the oil holes in the bearings
I like my exspandable driver. It's never let me down and it works on everything. Gotta drive them straight though. If you put it on the stand right? You can drive them both ways on the stand.
some of the expandable ones do not have sufficient step on them for the tapered LS bearings and will damage the edges of the bearing babbit. gotta be careful
Does it matter which direction you put the bearings in from? I'm ordering my bearings and tool right now and trying to prepare for install.
Thank you for your question. In general, the tool needs to needs to be the farthest away from the bearing being installed for best alignment. Meaning, the rear cam bearings would be installed with the cam in the front and the front cam bearings being installed with the tool at the back.
thankyou verymuch
Thank you for watching!
Exelentes videos los de Ustedes ... Me encantan ... Si quisiera comprar algun producto suyos como hago ... Soy venezolano ...
So can the cam bearings be pushed in or out either way? Like there is no taper or anything in the cam bore is there? Also if you overshoot installing it from one side, can you just tap it back the other way with the installer?
Thank you for your question. The O.D. of the bearings change, but the I.D.’s will be the same. They can go in from either direction, but you will find going in from the opposite side gives you the best alignment. If you do go too far, yes it’s acceptable to just tap it backwards from that side.
Will this tool remove the old bearings?
Im getting ready to order this tool, a machine shop used the universal tool to install my besrings and atleast one is crooked. Is it safe to install a new set of bearings in my aluminum ls block, and not fear spinning a bearing. My journals were within spec originally.
Does it have to be hit from the back?
Can I get away from the front and leaving the block on the engine stand
Wish you'd done this six months ago. : )
Thanks for watching Lorenzo. We have more videos coming on pistons and such. Stay tuned!
Is there a proper orientation for the 2nd hole? Or people just put them in however, as long as one hole lines up with the journal?
yup as long as one hole is lined up
I was told that with the ls y block design you should install the main caps before throwing the bearings in?
During any engine build, the main bearing clearances should be checked using a dial bore gauge with the main bearing caps torqued to spec. Watch this video for more information. th-cam.com/video/WYx-de7cyxs/w-d-xo.html
never lube the cam bearing outside surface when installed they need to go in dry ..
I’m guessing this is still possible with the rotating assembly still in the block?
Thank you for your question. Theoretically everything clears, but getting in to change mandrel and check oil hole aligment with the crank in place is going to be very tricky at best.
Sometimes, I notice that other guys don't put cam lube on the outside of the bearings.Also,they don't wear gloves.Please re enforce the necessity of doing this!
Will this tool work with the rotating assembly installed?
It will make it easier if it's all out so you can get the cam bearings in and so you can make sure your getting the oiling hole lined up
I purchased sh-1814s instead of the ones you guys used what's the reason you guys used sh-1825s
@@SummitRacing OK GREAT I Have 2001 5.3 lm7
Thank you for your question. We think you may mean the SH-2125’s which are used for the cam housing bores from 2004 forward. Your SH-1814’s are for the 1997-03 models. It’s not easy to tell how old a salvage block is, but luckily even a dial caliper does the job. The individual cam bearings used in these sets differ by which bore they are in and have different part numbers even within the same set. Mike gets into this around the 2:15 mark.
If I hear one more thing about ls swaps...
Why was the camera on the person driving the bearing? Didn’t see a damn thing 🤦🏻♂️
Why's that tool so long?
It seems to me that it's almost twice as long as it needs to be, and aught to work fine if it were shorter. From a manufacturing perspective, nobody's going to make something with more material than needed unless there's a reason. So it must be intentional, but I'm just not seeing it...
Is the same tool made for longer blocks, or something?
Can anyone confirm if this will work on the LM7?
yes it will.
Thank you for your question. The basic method to installing cam bearings will be the same for any gen. 3, 4 or 5 engine but the LM7 was used from 1999-2007. This means you will need to verify if you have the late 2003 and later block with the different cam housing bore. Here are the specs for each and you will need to order the appropriate cam bearing set we mentioned.
Bearings go in DRY!!! NEVER EVER oil the bearings for installation.. Summit stick to selling parts..
I guess they are not going to respond to everyone calling them out on it.
Yes, put them in dry!
I've contacted a few different manufacturers of cam bearings, they all said a "light" coat of oil is *NO* concern
You NEVER want to install bearings dry into an aluminum block! Doing so can gall the aluminum, cause the bearing to install crooked, and (worst of all) damage the bore in your block! Remember, aluminum is very soft, and you are installing a bearing with an interference fit. While no lubrication is fine with iron, it can EASILY damage aluminum.
@@nsmturbo5902 Here’s something else to consider. Even if you install the bearings dry, it is inevitable that oil is going to make its way into the nooks and crannies between the bearing and the block. Oil can easily seep into small spaces. And in the case of cam bearings, they even have a supply of pressurized oil.
I put oil on my bearings and they spun ,then I knew this video was dumb,
then motor was sent to the scrapyard.
Was it an aluminum or an iron block? Half the folks on the comments are saying lube on only the aluminum block. Heard some GM dealers and machine shops install cam bearings work with Loctite because the #2 bearing was prone to slipping but that must of been iron blocks.
@@carlosrendo4970 I am not a mechanic,just had a 6.0 motor with a spun cam bearing and wanted it fixed cheap,but found out that is not happening.
What was wrong with it?
Everyone saying the bearings must go in dry is a moron, do you think something with a Press fit that tight is going to have space to have lubrication in between to “SPIN” a bearing? Do you think this is a balljoint in its socket? Lol and if you “SPIN” a bearing something was misaligned and caused the cam to hook the bearing
☝🏼 exactly
Please do not grease/oil the outside of any of your bearings. It can mess up your tolerances, and worst case you could spin a bearing. Not as dangerous on a cam bearing, but still not worth the risk.
Why not? The manufacturer says to lube prior to installation. Why would you go against what they designed specifically?
@@Desert_guy The manufacturers specify that you should not place oil or grease between the block and the bearing. Doing so can decrease your tolerances, and in worst case scenarios you can spin your bearings. Most if not all bushing style bearings must be placed in a clean, dry block. Grease and oil are for lubrication, you don't need to lubricate something that will not see friction. Greasing the inner side of the bearing is almost always recommended.
How is that possible on a “press fit” ?
@@philipmazzuca2269 The cam bearings are press fit, but the main bearings are not...
or you just don’t look at them and call it good
Haha! We wouldn't recommend that. Thanks for watching.
The reason we replaced cam bearings was because the block had some machine work done to it and we wanted to be sure it was absolutely clean. That’s the only way to insure there is no debris in those galleys and grooves that could come loose and cause a problem once the engine is up and running.
Cam bearings require a dry assembly. This is a fail
False.
For a 101 class you assume that students know how a cam bearing installation tool works. Bad, very bad boys. Two thumbs down.