Absolutely loved your diagnostic technique. Also very pleased to see that you had already addressed a recap of high voltage circuits prior to parts swapping. I can't tell you how many times I've seen "techs" and enthusiasts board swap, tube swap and utterly gut other working CRTs before doing even a basic recap. I just hang my head in despair.... Really great - and proper - diagnostic video, thanks!
I agree that this methodology truly isolated the problem and proved which part was just inadequate for the job. Sometimes cheaper electronic parts just aren't up the output quality that a device demands and clearly this was just one of those cases.
Just did a 1084 flyback replacement, and the screen was blurry and when brightness turned up and there was blooming. I could adjust brightness control and contrast to get sharp text, but then the screen seemed dark. It looked like the symptom of a worn out CRT . But, brightness levels seemed in range so I suspected voltage was actually too high. I turned down brightness control all the way and contrast all the way up, then reduced screen voltage at the flyback until white text was just barely visible. Then adjusted focus voltage at flyback for sharpest image. Brought screen voltage up just slightly until brightness control has a good range. Problem solved, no more blooming very sharp text. Screen looks GREAT. Like a brand new 1084s. Very bright and sharp.
Why not meassure up the flybacks? Compare them to each other. Inductance, resistance. Some schematics? Open up the potentiometer cap, compare the stuff in there. Dig a bit deeper. You keep the flyback magic a bit mysterious, lets pull the pants and make it naked science. Dimension of the wires? What is the difference… Ask mr Carlson at mr Carlsons lab. He is an incredible guy in analogue electronics. Also pretty darn good in explaining stuff! Besides that, a very interesting episode. Love your work! ❤ But I just get more curious here. What the heck is the difference that makes such a very clear blooming effect?
I'm also curious but it will have to remain black magic for now. I believe measuring them requires some specialised test equipment to get any meaningful results. Cracking open the bad one will likely tell us nothing without cracking open a good one, and then I've destroyed a good flyback. I'd love to see Mr Carlson poke at one of these and break it down, if anyone could do it justice it would be him.
At 10:53 I was scared ! I have a few CRTs (1701, 2 1084 D1 and D2s, Phillips cm8833-ii, a Microvitec Cub, a monochrome ST SM124, am Amstrad CT644 1085S, 2 Trinitrons, 5 portables including a Darth Vader helmet shaped on, and 5 arcade cabs. I'm recapping the machines and consoles now, but am dreading working on the CRTs, but shall look at your bravery and various TH-cam guides to inspire me
I was pretty nervous the first time taking a high voltage reading but you become comfortable with it after a few goes, you shouldn't need to go probing the high voltage in most cases. Just study up, watch some videos and remember that when turned off the only dangerous parts are under the anode cap, and any large (50V or greater) capacitors. Most of them will have a bleed resistor but don't assume anything until you have confirmed they are not holding a painful charge.
SCART is not an Amiga standards. Full RGB with sync is. Only need 4 video cables (high quality shielded BNC). For red blue green and video sync. SCART has too many issues but I've been unable to test it because SCART CRT TVs are not produced anymore. Even then finding an old used one, hoping that it implements full SCART protocol is a bad assumption.
Ty for another GREAT Commodore content video! Yes, it's not a problem to strip anything needed out of a working or dead Atari ST computer or monitor to fix and bring a Commodore back to alive. It is NOT ever OK to strip anything from a Commodore to fix an Atari ST. lol If you're an Atari ST lover I'm just joking with you. Am I? lol
Is there a way to get a hold of bad 1084 flybacks? I’d be interested in reverse engineering one to be able to make one-offs for repairs. Would be a fun diversion.
I learnt something! I have 2 old Sony 15" CRT TVs, both do this "blooming" thing. I thought it was a nature of the beast kinda thing for CRTs... Apparently not. 😊
It's considered normal to have a very small amount of bloom, especially in older CRTs. But if it's as obvious as it was with this one then that suggests a deeper issue which could be the flyback, but it's not guaranteed
Yep, I was going to say (or maybe even said it in a previous video, maybe not even one of yours... I'm getting old) that blooming usually indicates a HV regulation problem.
Yeah, everything pointed towards the HV regulation. This was just to rule out whether it was something external affecting the flyback voltage or the flyback itself
I just replaced the flyback on my 1084S-P1, I used a 7533 from HR. It has no markings and a yellow sticker. But it doesn’t bloom. Well god luck for me.
I have a 1084 with a suspected short (high-pitched whine on PSU board, measured 40 Ohms to GND on the +128 and checked everything else for shorts), but after watching this vid I'm afraid to buy a replacement flyback... would be good to know if this is a one-off, or if these blooming issues are common with these replacement flybacks?
I still have my 1084 from '87, but the display has a rainbow effect; otherwise I believe it would show all colors correctly if that were fixed... I just don't know how myself, nor where to take it
Sounds like it needs degaussing. You could try multiple power cycles, turning it on for 10 seconds then off, waiting 5 minutes and repeating the process (just make sure there a no magnetic sources close by like speakers). If there's no change after 3 or 4 cycles then it would need manual degaussing with a degaussing wand or preferably a coil
What if I've got the opposite problem, the picture shrinks horizontally to an odd looking square when the brightness goes up? And I have to deal with a dim picture to "fix" the issue. On a mid-sized flatscreen CRT TV, if it matters.
Sounds more like a deflection issue, like the voltage is dropping too low with brighter images. I'd suspect a bad cap or caps in the power supply or deflection circuits.
Where do I get one of these? I've been looking for 10 years and my A1200 and A600 and C64s keep having video issues. I'm in an NTSC region so TVs don't sync no matter what. I need to hardware mod a Toshiba CRT and hope it works and if it does it will only works with my A1200. So I've been using OSSC but it fried itself. 😢
Absolutely loved your diagnostic technique. Also very pleased to see that you had already addressed a recap of high voltage circuits prior to parts swapping.
I can't tell you how many times I've seen "techs" and enthusiasts board swap, tube swap and utterly gut other working CRTs before doing even a basic recap. I just hang my head in despair....
Really great - and proper - diagnostic video, thanks!
I agree that this methodology truly isolated the problem and proved which part was just inadequate for the job. Sometimes cheaper electronic parts just aren't up the output quality that a device demands and clearly this was just one of those cases.
I flew back just in time to catch your video... I really got a charge out of your content. It "was" trans·form·a·tive. Thanks so much.
Just did a 1084 flyback replacement, and the screen was blurry and when brightness turned up and there was blooming. I could adjust brightness control and contrast to get sharp text, but then the screen seemed dark. It looked like the symptom of a worn out CRT . But, brightness levels seemed in range so I suspected voltage was actually too high. I turned down brightness control all the way and contrast all the way up, then reduced screen voltage at the flyback until white text was just barely visible. Then adjusted focus voltage at flyback for sharpest image. Brought screen voltage up just slightly until brightness control has a good range. Problem solved, no more blooming very sharp text. Screen looks GREAT. Like a brand new 1084s. Very bright and sharp.
no blooming issue with the replacement? Where did you get the new flyback from?
Wonderful demonstrated the issue. Praising.
Why not meassure up the flybacks? Compare them to each other. Inductance, resistance. Some schematics? Open up the potentiometer cap, compare the stuff in there. Dig a bit deeper. You keep the flyback magic a bit mysterious, lets pull the pants and make it naked science. Dimension of the wires? What is the difference…
Ask mr Carlson at mr Carlsons lab. He is an incredible guy in analogue electronics. Also pretty darn good in explaining stuff!
Besides that, a very interesting episode. Love your work! ❤ But I just get more curious here. What the heck is the difference that makes such a very clear blooming effect?
I'm also curious but it will have to remain black magic for now. I believe measuring them requires some specialised test equipment to get any meaningful results. Cracking open the bad one will likely tell us nothing without cracking open a good one, and then I've destroyed a good flyback.
I'd love to see Mr Carlson poke at one of these and break it down, if anyone could do it justice it would be him.
At 10:53 I was scared !
I have a few CRTs (1701, 2 1084 D1 and D2s, Phillips cm8833-ii, a Microvitec Cub, a monochrome ST SM124, am Amstrad CT644 1085S, 2 Trinitrons, 5 portables including a Darth Vader helmet shaped on, and 5 arcade cabs.
I'm recapping the machines and consoles now, but am dreading working on the CRTs, but shall look at your bravery and various TH-cam guides to inspire me
I was pretty nervous the first time taking a high voltage reading but you become comfortable with it after a few goes, you shouldn't need to go probing the high voltage in most cases. Just study up, watch some videos and remember that when turned off the only dangerous parts are under the anode cap, and any large (50V or greater) capacitors. Most of them will have a bleed resistor but don't assume anything until you have confirmed they are not holding a painful charge.
+1 for PLOK
SCART to DE-9, where have I seen this before today? Oh yeah, that's right. Noel's Retro Lab had an item on making your own cables. :)
SCART is not an Amiga standards. Full RGB with sync is. Only need 4 video cables (high quality shielded BNC). For red blue green and video sync. SCART has too many issues but I've been unable to test it because SCART CRT TVs are not produced anymore. Even then finding an old used one, hoping that it implements full SCART protocol is a bad assumption.
Ty for another GREAT Commodore content video! Yes, it's not a problem to strip anything needed out of a working or dead Atari ST computer or monitor to fix and bring a Commodore back to alive. It is NOT ever OK to strip anything from a Commodore to fix an Atari ST. lol If you're an Atari ST lover I'm just joking with you. Am I? lol
Is there a way to get a hold of bad 1084 flybacks? I’d be interested in reverse engineering one to be able to make one-offs for repairs. Would be a fun diversion.
dude we need flybacks for GDM-FW900 :O
I learnt something! I have 2 old Sony 15" CRT TVs, both do this "blooming" thing. I thought it was a nature of the beast kinda thing for CRTs... Apparently not. 😊
It's considered normal to have a very small amount of bloom, especially in older CRTs. But if it's as obvious as it was with this one then that suggests a deeper issue which could be the flyback, but it's not guaranteed
Maybe the "Fake Chip" issue extends to other components?
You could say it extends to just about every product, not just electronic components
Yeah. Fake flyback f**kery.
Yep, I was going to say (or maybe even said it in a previous video, maybe not even one of yours... I'm getting old) that blooming usually indicates a HV regulation problem.
Yeah, everything pointed towards the HV regulation. This was just to rule out whether it was something external affecting the flyback voltage or the flyback itself
Interesting, I have a 27 trinitron that has a case of bloom, I wonder if I can find a compatible flyback for sale.
I just replaced the flyback on my 1084S-P1, I used a 7533 from HR. It has no markings and a yellow sticker. But it doesn’t bloom. Well god luck for me.
I have a 1084 with a suspected short (high-pitched whine on PSU board, measured 40 Ohms to GND on the +128 and checked everything else for shorts), but after watching this vid I'm afraid to buy a replacement flyback... would be good to know if this is a one-off, or if these blooming issues are common with these replacement flybacks?
Atari to rescue Commodore, of course, always 😂
Where can I get a flyback for a Commodore 2002/Amiga 1080?
I still have my 1084 from '87, but the display has a rainbow effect; otherwise I believe it would show all colors correctly if that were fixed... I just don't know how myself, nor where to take it
Sounds like it needs degaussing. You could try multiple power cycles, turning it on for 10 seconds then off, waiting 5 minutes and repeating the process (just make sure there a no magnetic sources close by like speakers). If there's no change after 3 or 4 cycles then it would need manual degaussing with a degaussing wand or preferably a coil
Would you possibly know where i can get a Flyback for a Sony GDM-FW900?
No idea sorry
What if I've got the opposite problem, the picture shrinks horizontally to an odd looking square when the brightness goes up? And I have to deal with a dim picture to "fix" the issue. On a mid-sized flatscreen CRT TV, if it matters.
Sounds more like a deflection issue, like the voltage is dropping too low with brighter images. I'd suspect a bad cap or caps in the power supply or deflection circuits.
I need a new flyback for my 1702, do you know a source for a flyback for the 1702?
Not for the 1702, you'd likely need to find another busted 1702 and hope the flyback is salvageable
Where do I get one of these? I've been looking for 10 years and my A1200 and A600 and C64s keep having video issues. I'm in an NTSC region so TVs don't sync no matter what. I need to hardware mod a Toshiba CRT and hope it works and if it does it will only works with my A1200. So I've been using OSSC but it fried itself. 😢
Cable guy joke was 🤌
It's not the CRT in your case. It's the chassis. I haven't watched it yet, I believe it is the g2 voltage? Maybe?
I mean, you could've just watched the video to find out what the issue was.
@@8bitbubsy G2 voltage comes from the flyback. I did watch it BTW.
What program/rom are you using for testing the screens with the SNES.
It's the 240P Test Suite
@@TheRetroChannel THANKS!
And chromer lumer...I don't know why but I can't get it out of my mind now
Isn't this phenomenon called breathing and not blooming?
So happy to see an Atari sacrificed to save a Commodore. It is the way of life. 🙃
Brutal 😆
Boooooooo! 😜😜
I felt sick when he put the Atari component in the commodore. It was just wrong!
@@robbyxp1 Next thing: men will dress as women. Oh Wait
Jay Miner himself was an Atari product and you can really see a lot of the family tree from 2600 -> 800 -> Amiga
Picture coming u r lucky . Made in China no guarantee how long it will last 😂