This is actually really helpful right now. I have a VGA monitor that is missing red that I need to work on, so watching you troubleshoot may help with that. Thanks!
That's excellent. I have a Sony Trinitron 17" Multiscan CPD-200xx (don't remember the exact model) that I bought new in 1998 or so. It has no Green. You have given me hope that it might be fixable.
Hopefully it's an issue with the circuit and not the gun itself. If you're experienced with working on a CRT then I'd start by looking at the signal going into the gun on the neckboard. Otherwise try and find someone who can check it for you, CRTs can be very dangerous to work on. Hope you get it going again
It's a shame that so few people have experience repairing CRT's. We used to have one or two people back in the late 90's who fixed them... I have at least three CRT's that need TLC...
Wonder if my lack of Blue is a similar issue on my 1084S-P1. Tried adjusting the pots on the CRT panel, and the Green Drive and the Blue Drive, still really no blue coming through, so white looks yellow. Tried looking at various components on it, but they seemed fine, so quite possibly the transistor is bad. I'll poke that!
HAHA, There was a resistor next to the Blue Drive POT that was shorting it out!! I took some tweezers and bent it away and magically I can adjust the blue!
Hello sir I have a question, I have a Commodor 1084s-p. One of my scroll wheel ( the vert centerings one ) is not working fine , I open my crt and she is really rusty. I clean her up but that change nothing . Do you now where I can find a remplacent piece?
I'm not sure where to find a replacement. You may need to take some measurements of the physical size and see if you can find a matching one. Also, the schematics should list the resistance value you need.
I don't know if this is the right place to ask , but I recently replaced my 1081s flyback with a HR6489 from HR Diemen because the old one was on the way out (its making some weird crackling noises) , but the new one seems to be creating a jailbar effect on the screen . I'm pretty sure its the new flyback cause I swapped the old one back in again and it went away. Could a full recap or buying another flyback help? , maybe my flybacks faulty in some way?
Vertical banding that's worse on the left side of the screen? It's an issue with the HR Diemen flyback and unfortunately there's no fix for it. You may also notice blooming on bright areas. Seems HR Diemen didn't do a great job with these but there's no alternative these days
They *should* be interchangeable. Just make sure you reconnect the CRT ground strap correctly. On my 1084 there were two ground wires coming off the CRT ground strap - one going to the neckboard and another going to the mainboard next to the flyback. But on the 1081 there was a only one ground wire going to the neckboard and then a another ground wire between the neck and the mainboard. You'll notice in this video I just used an alligator clip to connect the CRT ground strap to the post on the mainboard, just as a temporary workaround
@@TheRetroChannel Okay ill keep that in mind , and just to be safe I've got the Chunghwa Tube 1081 , that should be electronically compatible with a Philips board right?
But you make no distinction in the video as to which input you are using? My 8CM515 (Similar monitor but branded Magnavox Professional) clearly works just fine on the composite port, but Lin. RGB does not show red. I guess should not suspect the transistor but something else.
For me it didn't make any difference which input was used. But in your case it sounds like a fault between the connector and RGB amplifier. I'd start by checking the connector for broken solder joints or dirty contacts
You can actually get that plug through the rear case hole, pretend it's one of those shitty geometry puzzles you get from an annoying relative for Christmas.
This is actually really helpful right now. I have a VGA monitor that is missing red that I need to work on, so watching you troubleshoot may help with that. Thanks!
Let me know if you get stuck
Great video, love watching someone who actually knows what they’re doing!
That might be a stretch, but I'll take it. Thanks mate
I really enjoyed watching this video. Thank you
The real reason why Mr Lurch doesn't collab. Camera framing. Tall people problems.
That's excellent. I have a Sony Trinitron 17" Multiscan CPD-200xx (don't remember the exact model) that I bought new in 1998 or so. It has no Green. You have given me hope that it might be fixable.
Hopefully it's an issue with the circuit and not the gun itself. If you're experienced with working on a CRT then I'd start by looking at the signal going into the gun on the neckboard. Otherwise try and find someone who can check it for you, CRTs can be very dangerous to work on. Hope you get it going again
@@TheRetroChannel Thanks for the tips. I have found the service manual so I will see if I can trace the Green. Thanks!
Another upload? Fine take another one of these 'like' things. Great work as always.
Great stuff! Had pretty much the same problem with my arcade machine CRT.
Did you get it sorted out?
It's a shame that so few people have experience repairing CRT's. We used to have one or two people back in the late 90's who fixed them... I have at least three CRT's that need TLC...
Love your videos mate so glad someone is keeping the retro seen going
Very entertaining. I really enjoy these diagnostic videos.
Excellent video, it was very informative.
Thanks for the video... Very informative 👍
Wonder if my lack of Blue is a similar issue on my 1084S-P1. Tried adjusting the pots on the CRT panel, and the Green Drive and the Blue Drive, still really no blue coming through, so white looks yellow. Tried looking at various components on it, but they seemed fine, so quite possibly the transistor is bad. I'll poke that!
HAHA, There was a resistor next to the Blue Drive POT that was shorting it out!! I took some tweezers and bent it away and magically I can adjust the blue!
Rather than tracing signals, I suspect just checking for the correct voltages provided on the schematic might have gotten you there quicker.
Yes and no, most of the voltages woud have looked ok on a multimeter, and besides, where's the fun in that?
Hello is there is 240p test software for amiga RGB? I want to use amiga with 1084s-d2 with RGB cable and calibrate it for amiga.
Not that I'm aware of but it is open source so maybe someone has ported it. Otherwise the Amiga test kit is probably your best bet
Hello sir I have a question, I have a Commodor 1084s-p. One of my scroll wheel ( the vert centerings one ) is not working fine , I open my crt and she is really rusty. I clean her up but that change nothing . Do you now where I can find a remplacent piece?
I'm not sure where to find a replacement. You may need to take some measurements of the physical size and see if you can find a matching one. Also, the schematics should list the resistance value you need.
@@TheRetroChannel okay thx I’m gonna check
Watch out for the high voltage rectum-frier.
Spicy
I don't know if this is the right place to ask , but I recently replaced my 1081s flyback with a HR6489 from HR Diemen because the old one was on the way out (its making some weird crackling noises) , but the new one seems to be creating a jailbar effect on the screen .
I'm pretty sure its the new flyback cause I swapped the old one back in again and it went away. Could a full recap or buying another flyback help? , maybe my flybacks faulty in some way?
Vertical banding that's worse on the left side of the screen? It's an issue with the HR Diemen flyback and unfortunately there's no fix for it. You may also notice blooming on bright areas. Seems HR Diemen didn't do a great job with these but there's no alternative these days
@@TheRetroChannel Yep that's pretty much exactly it , well dang looks like I'm shit out of luck(okay maybe not).
@@TheRetroChannel I've got a 1084S as well with a dead yoke , could I tube swap the 1081 into the 1084s and make a franken monitor kind of like this?
They *should* be interchangeable. Just make sure you reconnect the CRT ground strap correctly. On my 1084 there were two ground wires coming off the CRT ground strap - one going to the neckboard and another going to the mainboard next to the flyback. But on the 1081 there was a only one ground wire going to the neckboard and then a another ground wire between the neck and the mainboard. You'll notice in this video I just used an alligator clip to connect the CRT ground strap to the post on the mainboard, just as a temporary workaround
@@TheRetroChannel Okay ill keep that in mind , and just to be safe I've got the Chunghwa Tube 1081 , that should be electronically compatible with a Philips board right?
But you make no distinction in the video as to which input you are using? My 8CM515 (Similar monitor but branded Magnavox Professional) clearly works just fine on the composite port, but Lin. RGB does not show red. I guess should not suspect the transistor but something else.
For me it didn't make any difference which input was used. But in your case it sounds like a fault between the connector and RGB amplifier. I'd start by checking the connector for broken solder joints or dirty contacts
Which state do you guys live in?
ACT
You can actually get that plug through the rear case hole, pretend it's one of those shitty geometry puzzles you get from an annoying relative for Christmas.
1st like! Yes!
Then it's only right you should get the first heart