Thanks for watching I hope this helps some of you out, and injures nobody. Please be careful. Links to parts can be found in the video description and if you enjoy what I do and want to lend your support then head over to www.patreon.com/RetroManCave where you will get all videos 1 week early and without adverts. Thank you! Neil - RMC
i dont mean to be off topic but does someone know a method to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow forgot the login password. I love any tips you can give me
@Lennon Darren Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I want to point out that a broken flyback sometimes shows in an atypical way. I had a case where there was no noise and it was still building up some charge in the tube, but it was still dead. Also, when replacing the flyback, you should also replace the horizontal output transistor (HOT) and the snubber capacitor connected to it, because it's often a broken HOT that leads to a dead flyback, and on the other hand it's often a broken snubber capacitor that destroys the HOT (or broken solder joint on either of them). Otherwise, you might end up destroying your new flyback transformer.
I must have replaced hundreds of those Philips flybacks and power switches. A lot of their small TVs used the same items. The replacent switches never lined up, always had to remove the metal from the old one. I always wondered why Philips made the flybacks with the screen and focus on the wrong side. It made no sense. Both need adjusting live to get rid of the retrace lines properly and focus properly. You did a great job. On the neck board, I never had a tool for that. Always a screwdriver, plyers and patience to get the darn thing open 🙂
Brendan White I took a lot of CRT television sets apart when I was volunteering at a charity. I was recycling them, and now I wish I hadn’t, because they would be worth something today
@@infinitecanadian Sad thing is here in the states a lot of old CRTs were sent over to India for recycling due to the dangers of the CRT. Lately when I come across a CRT I snag it and rob the Flyback, Degauss Coil, and Yoke from it. If the Tube doesn't have any burn in and if I have room I keep the Tube if it's smaller then 21 inch.
Those Philips LOPTs in these and the 1084 monitors dropped like flies and were a good earner for repairers back in the day. And yes those crappy power switches. Philips also made VGA monitors for Osbourne computers here in Australia and they used to cook all sorts of inductors and were a good earner too.
Thank you Neil. Now, I've never been one for TV or CRT repair, but I have watched videos on CRTs, and nobody has explained the function of the flyback transformer as clearly and precisely as you in this video. Thank you!
OMG! Neil! Almost exact same story as yours, happened to me few yrs ago. I went to buy an extra Amiga to have one for extra parts. Checked local ads, found one for cheap, no picture. I sat in the car, drove uptown, I enter that living room and a total shock!!! It was the Limited Edition (Stefanie special edition) + mint CM88333 + a box full of floppies all included in that price. The lady had no idea what she had. Something like 20 quid. I completely restored that Amiga, installed a NOS keyboard (German edition to make it fully legit). Later i soldered in 512 kB of RAM from a spare motherboard, so now it is 1MB chip RAM. Now just to install a battery somehow to get that clock up and running. I wonder do i need to build some custom jumper so that Amiga "knows" it has a battery since the expansion slot is vacant.
I learned something. I always assumed that the high voltage from the flyback transformer was used for shooting the electrons at the screen but your explanation makes sense. The flyback doesn't connect to the electron guns but rather the CRT and even the word flyback describes what you said.
I wish I'd found your channel sooner! I spent the last couple of years learning to repair CRT's. It's great fun... after living a life of being terrified of everything inside one. They are actually pretty simple to work on! And it's a lost art! Took me a long time to find even a couple really good CRT repair books...
Mind at least sharing the name of those resources to learn how to repair CRTs? I'm on the same boat as you, learning how to repair them and I always welcome any new info.
Brilliant to see this monitor again! I had one back in the 90s for my Amiga, it went on to become the monitor for my PlayStation! Work your Magic Neil!!
I remember getting a shock off a crt a long time ago... it really f*cking hurt! It was a rented tv from radio rentals (there's one for the kids) To tune it the whole back had to be removed to access the small tuning knobs and of course this had to be done while turned on. So there I am standing in front of the tv giving it a reach-around to twiddle it's knob so I can tune in my Commodore C16 (we were poor, this reply is best with "in the ghetto" as it's soundtrack) and my forearm brushed something very live indeed. I really don't recommend it... I've had a few 240v shocks over the years but that was really nasty. Although finding out how awfully shit my new C16 was turned out fairly painful as well
Did much the same back when I used to have to repair CRTs as part of my job - familiarity breeds contempt and I got bitten. Naturally, in front of a paying customer. I _may_ have sworn, just a little. So, so much worse than when I gave myself a 240V belt in front of a (different) customer - although thinking about it, I think I swore that time, too. And then everyone laughed at me, the unsympathetic b.... :D
Brilliant to finally see someone do a video on these Philips monitors, cause over the years i've had 3 of them that have developed this same exact problem. I gave up on them thinking it was a major power supply issue, so it's a great to finally find out the actual issue, solution and where to get the parts. Ironically i'm yet to have a faulty power switch on any, but I know it's a very common thing to fail.
Very cool. I have one of those, but It's been years since I've done anything to it. I didn't remember how easy it's to take apart. Many old CRTs are much trickier to disassemble.
Good video - only about 9 months too late for me! I had exactly this monitor with exactly this problem (after a grand total of about 60 minutes use after acquiring it!) Researching it I was under the impression that it was not fixable. Wish I'd kept it now!
I had the mk1 version of this monitor with my first 8088 pc connected to the RGBI socket. It was an awesome bit of kit, it doubled as a tv when I was at uni by connecting a video recorder to the scart (euro) socket. And could quickly switch between the two. Great to see one again.
I recently bought a NOS flyback for my Daewoo rebranded Commodore 1084S monitor from eBay really cheap, however in the process of trying to find one I did find a company over in Europe called HR Diemen that seems to have all of the designs for every flyback possibly ever made and can reproduce them. They weren't cheap, but it was nice to know that in the future when all of the new old stock flybacks still in circulation runout there is company that can still make them!
I've been repairing a faulty dirt cheap GB for solid 3 hours now, and my hand hurts from holding the solder iron. Time to sip my co- i mean tea, and enjoy this show. :P
I replaced the flyback in my 1084 monitor last Sunday. It was a bit easier, since there was no need to disassemble everything - it was easy to reach the flyback. The only thing was, the pins on a replacement had slightly different pin spacing - a fraction of mm difference, yet I had to fight with them a bit and add a new hole for one of the GND pins. But the monitor works again :-)
Whilst doing my school work experience for a week at a computer repair workshop I was taught how to repair Amstrad PCW screens, used to use two long screwdrivers to discharge to screen.
Great video, I've got a JVC CRT for my MiSTer and I agree they are a must for complete retro setup. After watching videos like this I'm not sure I ever would have a go myself, my Dad used to be a TV engineer back in the day and he's been zapped a few times, probably lucky to be alive! Only thing I noticed was the anode cable was touching the tube, on other videos I've seen a plastic wheel thing that makes sure this cable doesn't touch the tube, not sure if that might be an issue, this model CRT didn't seem to have one.
Awesome video! Never though I would learn the cause of the beep noise was the flyback.. And thank you very much for the explanation of the flyback.. Now the name makes total sense for me.. Great content here.. Thank you very much and congratulations for the awesome channel..
Had this same screen for my Amiga 500. Great video and skills! Space Ace too! So awesome. PS - Great Christmas jumper! I have the same one. Time to get it out after seeing this.
Years ago I attended a computer maintenance course at my local College. I remember one guy, who was old enough to know better. Thought he would see what happens if he switched the PSU on his PC to 110 volts. The loud bang that proceeded scared us all half to death. Then when the lecturer opened the CRT he decided to poke a screw driver around all the innards after we were warned on the dangers of CRT screens. Luckily nobody died. It was definitely the most exciting course I had ever been on 😀
A tutorial on adjusting the red/green/blue alignment would be super. (so that white dots in the corner look like "white dots"; not an unfocused mess of red/green/blue). Thanx for the vid!
Great video again, thanks! I have two dead CRTs. One 1081 and one 1084. I am afraid it is totally beyond my skills so I am gonna let someone have a look at it. They do have exactly the same symptoms. Keep up the nice work you do!
WARNING: The CRT tube is under vacuum. It will implode and shower glass everywhere if it cracks even a little. Arguably this is the most dangerous part of working on a CRT.
still crt can last years and years . i have toshiba crt tv working still age 30 years. though it has a flyback replacement few months ago. still good as first day.
Fantastic, I have the first version of this monitor. It is still working (I hope for a long time to come), I don't particularly want to work on one of those. Great video, thanks!
Thankfully my CM8833 still works a treat - but thanks to videos like this I am way more confident to keep it operational for much longer. Nice christmas jumper btw. 🎅
Fantastic video. You've earned a new Patreon supporter! (not just on the merits of this video of course, just that it was about bloody time I recognised the value your channel provides to the community).
This model of CRT is one of those monitors that I used to have and now regret having let it go. Along with my original Atari ST, Sega Game Gear and Ilyama 17" SVGA monitor.
If any of your other CRT's need adjustment in convergence or geometry, I am sure many who watched this video would be very interested in seeing how to fine tune an older set that has gone out of spec. I wish there were more videos of the information you shared back when I was getting into CRT refurbishments. It is a very scary project to tackle, if you know nothing about the subject.
I managed to get one of these about 1 month ago for £40, came with manual and cables fir the amiga and the atari st The picture is fantastic and decent stereo sound too
Excellent work Neil. I could have used a desoldering gun trying to install a composite board on my CoCo a few weeks ago! Looks like quite the essential tool.
Spent many a day in front of mine with an Atari, and I remember seeing them on TV. Mine came from Cash Converters for 70 quid, stank of cigarettes but worked fine for years until it was dumped in a chaotic house move. I did have to resolder the input socket once. They ran well in 60Hz! Alas I just can't look at a 50Hz CRT anymore, the flicker is painful!
I did a lot of Philips TV flyback transformers back when they were current. You normally don't have to dismantle the CRT base socket. Usually if you very quickly push then pull on the lead it will pop out. The new one just pushes back in and is gripped by the tang inside.
I miss CRTs! I enjoyed repairing them back in the day, I recently threw out my rejuvenator and all my Fluke Hi-V probes. Would have made for a good video - d'oh!
14:50 One can always use a plastic or wooden artist's brush handle or knitting needle, just sharpen its end in a form of screwdriver head. Still have one of my own, it also come very handy in tuning RF oscillating circuits and throttles.
That was very instructive, thanks! I'm in the process of fixing my Mk1, luckily not the flywheel but rather some strange intermittent contact on the power board (which is separate board on the Mk1). I'm told the flyback transformer's soldering is often dodgy on these monitors. I sure hope that's not the case, since it is quite some additional work to disassemble the whole thing. Cheers!
Thank you ... that was interesting! First time I’ve seen a flyback transformer fixed since working on colour TVs in my high school electricity / electronics shop (a loooong time ago 🙂). One student (not me) did find out about capacitor to ground via screwdriver ... there was a blue flash and a loud snapping noise. He looked “surprised”. 😮🙂
5:50 Small correction: Unlike photons, electrons do have mass. As a consequence, the electrons in a typical CRT "only" travel at around 1/10 the speed of light. Yes, that's still mind-boggingly fast.
Well this will come in handy as i have a 15" monitor with broken solder joints on the neckboard and wanted some refferences before trying to pry open the cap on the tube socket so that i can unplug the flayback and work on it separate from the tube and the rest of the cables.
The title of the video made it sound to me like you failed to fix the monitor, reading it again I realised it meant the Flyback had failed. I remember playing Space Ace and Dragon's Lair in the arcade back in the day.
This is exactly the same problem I have with my 8833 II. Thanks for the video. Now I can find a professional and describe the problem better. Greetings from germany :-)
You can get those plastic adjustment tools on amazon... that said, you can get insulated shaft screwdrivers at Home Depot or Lowes.... or whatever the big box home remodeling stores are across the pond... I have no clue what those may be, or if our names are international.... but they're widely available.
Yeah I had the 1084 monitor which died due the same thing as your where the LOPT died and at the time (many years ago) it was hard to get a replacment. The LOPT also supplies some of teh Low Voltages too which was why my one was completly dead. But back then I love the monitor.
I happen to open up a Brionvega Agol 11 today to see how the fourhole propriarty powerplug works... I seems that most likely the brown and blue wires can be plugged with a C8 polarized plug, but there is a black wire and I'm not sure what it's needed for. Guess I'll have to test it with a multimeter.
This is the same monitor I had for my Amiga 1200. We ended up throwing our amiga out due to the power switch breaking on the Phillips monitor (Had to hold the switch in), and also the Amigas HDD had failed and I was around 10 at the time and wasnt even allowed to attempt a repair. If only I was allowed to keep it I could have fixed both problems easily.
Nice vid! Personally I would have capped it while I had the hood open. It would have brightened and sharpened up the picture for sure. And have been solid for years to come.
This reminded me of when I took my PVM to a local repair-man to dissasemble it for me (I was too scared to discharge myself, even though it has a discharge circuit)... anyhow, when I got it back the image was so distorted and green, and it was making this huge high pitched noise... Called the repair shop and they said it probably got some water condensation inside from sitting in my trunk during the rain the previous night. Guess what - it wasn't that! I noticed some flashing from the side mesh of it and it turns out one of the high voltage leads that attaches to the flywheel was detached and it was shorting (like making this plasma arch) to the metal of one of the nearby capacitors. All fear aside I had to reattach it hahah. Good thing that that worked, but still not completely confident to dissasemble and clean a CRT on my own, there are high voltage capacitors there that are scary too - and even being careful it is not a feat anyone should underestimate. Thanks for the great content! ^_^
If you find yourself doing this again, I think you could make an in-situ adjusting tool pretty easily by taking an appropriately-sized wooden dowel from the hardware store and filing the tip into a flathead screwdriver shape.
Always best to keep these things alive, not only are they much better for older content but keeping them going cuts back on the e waste. I used to have same monitor back in my old Amiga days, it's still well worth having as I believe I am correct in saying it's will accept a 15hz signal thus it's Ideal for those 240p games. I still have lots of CRT tv's and vga monitors but when it come down to the VGA's as nice as some are, I have a Mitsubishi's Diamond Pro 2070SB more than capable of doing 2k, none of them can do older resolutions and it's all 480p and above unless play around with super resolutions and run it at 120khz. This Phillips is a great companion not just for a C64 or Amiga but also all those old consoles that are pre dreamcast.
One thing you should probably mention, is that sometimes a dead flyback can take out the horizontal output transistor that drives it. Usually if this happens, you wont hear any whine though.
always wondered what the hisss was the monitor wouldn't come on, I went through so many monitors back in the day, PS I can print you off a screwdriver if you need one to tackle those other monitors to focus and brightness.
Excellent video, do you ever do Cub repairs? I have a working Cub for my beeb that I have had repaired a couple of times.... my concern for the future is that it is literally a dying art. A video on Cub maintenance would be very useful. Cheers Peter
I have one of these with this exact issue. I just cannot find anyone local who will works on CRT repairs and I just don’t have the confidence to do it myself :(
they regulary turn up at Adswood dump in the TV section in Stockport. I have one spare fawn one ex some kind of PC going free but probable need of repair - lets assume it is a SVGA one.
LOL, I actually made a discharge tool very similar to that for opening up an old imac. I honestly think it had long been discharged but hey, better safe than sorry.
you were quite lucky. Usually when the flyback died, some transistors and diodes died too, even in the primary PSU side. I would advise you to change non polarised caps that are labelled with a warning sight in the schematics, when they dimish even a bit, they can kill your flyback
Thanks for watching I hope this helps some of you out, and injures nobody. Please be careful. Links to parts can be found in the video description and if you enjoy what I do and want to lend your support then head over to www.patreon.com/RetroManCave where you will get all videos 1 week early and without adverts.
Thank you!
Neil - RMC
RetroManCave Now I finally know what exactly a flyback transformer does.
i dont mean to be off topic but does someone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow forgot the login password. I love any tips you can give me
@Junior Tristen instablaster ;)
@Lennon Darren Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Lennon Darren it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
I want to point out that a broken flyback sometimes shows in an atypical way. I had a case where there was no noise and it was still building up some charge in the tube, but it was still dead.
Also, when replacing the flyback, you should also replace the horizontal output transistor (HOT) and the snubber capacitor connected to it, because it's often a broken HOT that leads to a dead flyback, and on the other hand it's often a broken snubber capacitor that destroys the HOT (or broken solder joint on either of them). Otherwise, you might end up destroying your new flyback transformer.
Thanks for the tips, I have a friend who had a new Flyback die just a month after fitting so I'll pass that on to them now, really useful
niino could you show us where these sit on the boards Nino? I am prepping to do the repair on my monitor and may as well do this at the same time.
I must have replaced hundreds of those Philips flybacks and power switches.
A lot of their small TVs used the same items. The replacent switches never lined up, always had to remove the metal from the old one.
I always wondered why Philips made the flybacks with the screen and focus on the wrong side. It made no sense. Both need adjusting live to get rid of the retrace lines properly and focus properly.
You did a great job.
On the neck board, I never had a tool for that. Always a screwdriver, plyers and patience to get the darn thing open 🙂
Brendan White I took a lot of CRT television sets apart when I was volunteering at a charity. I was recycling them, and now I wish I hadn’t, because they would be worth something today
@@infinitecanadian Sad thing is here in the states a lot of old CRTs were sent over to India for recycling due to the dangers of the CRT.
Lately when I come across a CRT I snag it and rob the Flyback, Degauss Coil, and Yoke from it. If the Tube doesn't have any burn in and if I have room I keep the Tube if it's smaller then 21 inch.
Those Philips LOPTs in these and the 1084 monitors dropped like flies and were a good earner for repairers back in the day. And yes those crappy power switches. Philips also made VGA monitors for Osbourne computers here in Australia and they used to cook all sorts of inductors and were a good earner too.
Thank you Neil. Now, I've never been one for TV or CRT repair, but I have watched videos on CRTs, and nobody has explained the function of the flyback transformer as clearly and precisely as you in this video. Thank you!
Thank you sir!
OMG! Neil! Almost exact same story as yours, happened to me few yrs ago. I went to buy an extra Amiga to have one for extra parts. Checked local ads, found one for cheap, no picture. I sat in the car, drove uptown, I enter that living room and a total shock!!! It was the Limited Edition (Stefanie special edition) + mint CM88333 + a box full of floppies all included in that price. The lady had no idea what she had. Something like 20 quid. I completely restored that Amiga, installed a NOS keyboard (German edition to make it fully legit). Later i soldered in 512 kB of RAM from a spare motherboard, so now it is 1MB chip RAM. Now just to install a battery somehow to get that clock up and running. I wonder do i need to build some custom jumper so that Amiga "knows" it has a battery since the expansion slot is vacant.
I learned something. I always assumed that the high voltage from the flyback transformer was used for shooting the electrons at the screen but your explanation makes sense. The flyback doesn't connect to the electron guns but rather the CRT and even the word flyback describes what you said.
I wish I'd found your channel sooner! I spent the last couple of years learning to repair CRT's. It's great fun... after living a life of being terrified of everything inside one. They are actually pretty simple to work on! And it's a lost art! Took me a long time to find even a couple really good CRT repair books...
Mind at least sharing the name of those resources to learn how to repair CRTs? I'm on the same boat as you, learning how to repair them and I always welcome any new info.
Brilliant to see this monitor again! I had one back in the 90s for my Amiga, it went on to become the monitor for my PlayStation!
Work your Magic Neil!!
I remember getting a shock off a crt a long time ago... it really f*cking hurt! It was a rented tv from radio rentals (there's one for the kids) To tune it the whole back had to be removed to access the small tuning knobs and of course this had to be done while turned on. So there I am standing in front of the tv giving it a reach-around to twiddle it's knob so I can tune in my Commodore C16 (we were poor, this reply is best with "in the ghetto" as it's soundtrack) and my forearm brushed something very live indeed. I really don't recommend it... I've had a few 240v shocks over the years but that was really nasty. Although finding out how awfully shit my new C16 was turned out fairly painful as well
Short "new hardware" honeymoon period with the C16, huh?
donno if I wanna lol or cry... heh :,)
..... its knob .....
..... its soundtrack .....
it's is the contraction of "it is" so you were saying "twiddle it is knob" and "as it is soundtrack"
Did much the same back when I used to have to repair CRTs as part of my job - familiarity breeds contempt and I got bitten. Naturally, in front of a paying customer. I _may_ have sworn, just a little. So, so much worse than when I gave myself a 240V belt in front of a (different) customer - although thinking about it, I think I swore that time, too. And then everyone laughed at me, the unsympathetic b.... :D
I've changed a few flybacks in my day with arcade monitors and always hated desoldering them. I can see the desoldering tool is really helpful.
Brilliant to finally see someone do a video on these Philips monitors, cause over the years i've had 3 of them that have developed this same exact problem. I gave up on them thinking it was a major power supply issue, so it's a great to finally find out the actual issue, solution and where to get the parts. Ironically i'm yet to have a faulty power switch on any, but I know it's a very common thing to fail.
Can we just stop and contemplate Space Ace - if I heard right - protecting his "manhood" from the "Infanto Ray"?! :D
Excellent work Neil... my college days came flooding back...
11:40
Reminded me of Hugh Dennis.
"What's this? It's got a good beat!"
Very cool. I have one of those, but It's been years since I've done anything to it. I didn't remember how easy it's to take apart. Many old CRTs are much trickier to disassemble.
Good video - only about 9 months too late for me! I had exactly this monitor with exactly this problem (after a grand total of about 60 minutes use after acquiring it!) Researching it I was under the impression that it was not fixable. Wish I'd kept it now!
I had the mk1 version of this monitor with my first 8088 pc connected to the RGBI socket. It was an awesome bit of kit, it doubled as a tv when I was at uni by connecting a video recorder to the scart (euro) socket. And could quickly switch between the two. Great to see one again.
I love your technical terminology "long plastic tool that a TV repairman has" ;)
More CRT fixing is always welcome here. :)
nice one neil and no shocks too, its great to know that you can still get these flyback transformers......seeya in the next episode @@@kim@@@
I recently bought a NOS flyback for my Daewoo rebranded Commodore 1084S monitor from eBay really cheap, however in the process of trying to find one I did find a company over in Europe called HR Diemen that seems to have all of the designs for every flyback possibly ever made and can reproduce them. They weren't cheap, but it was nice to know that in the future when all of the new old stock flybacks still in circulation runout there is company that can still make them!
I've been repairing a faulty dirt cheap GB for solid 3 hours now, and my hand hurts from holding the solder iron. Time to sip my co- i mean tea, and enjoy this show. :P
I replaced the flyback in my 1084 monitor last Sunday. It was a bit easier, since there was no need to disassemble everything - it was easy to reach the flyback. The only thing was, the pins on a replacement had slightly different pin spacing - a fraction of mm difference, yet I had to fight with them a bit and add a new hole for one of the GND pins. But the monitor works again :-)
Hi! what was the flyback model? the same used in the video?
@@pateixeira22123 Looked the same at the first glance. I have no idea, if the model was the same.
Happy to meet your Lesson ! all are quit interesting and fantastic . many thanks ! the Cave
Whilst doing my school work experience for a week at a computer repair workshop I was taught how to repair Amstrad PCW screens, used to use two long screwdrivers to discharge to screen.
Cross the swords.
Great video, I've got a JVC CRT for my MiSTer and I agree they are a must for complete retro setup. After watching videos like this I'm not sure I ever would have a go myself, my Dad used to be a TV engineer back in the day and he's been zapped a few times, probably lucky to be alive! Only thing I noticed was the anode cable was touching the tube, on other videos I've seen a plastic wheel thing that makes sure this cable doesn't touch the tube, not sure if that might be an issue, this model CRT didn't seem to have one.
Awesome video! Never though I would learn the cause of the beep noise was the flyback.. And thank you very much for the explanation of the flyback.. Now the name makes total sense for me.. Great content here.. Thank you very much and congratulations for the awesome channel..
my toshiba 21 inch crt tv just turned 30 years.Only Flyback replacement and again it is alive . long live crt.
Had this same screen for my Amiga 500. Great video and skills! Space Ace too! So awesome.
PS - Great Christmas jumper! I have the same one. Time to get it out after seeing this.
Great video mate! It actually irritates me that 1 person disliked it. Keep up the good work, CHEERS!
Years ago I attended a computer maintenance course at my local College. I remember one guy, who was old enough to know better. Thought he would see what happens if he switched the PSU on his PC to 110 volts. The loud bang that proceeded scared us all half to death. Then when the lecturer opened the CRT he decided to poke a screw driver around all the innards after we were warned on the dangers of CRT screens. Luckily nobody died. It was definitely the most exciting course I had ever been on 😀
LOL
A tutorial on adjusting the red/green/blue alignment would be super. (so that white dots in the corner look like "white dots"; not an unfocused mess of red/green/blue). Thanx for the vid!
Great video again, thanks! I have two dead CRTs. One 1081 and one 1084. I am afraid it is totally beyond my skills so I am gonna let someone have a look at it. They do have exactly the same symptoms. Keep up the nice work you do!
WARNING: The CRT tube is under vacuum. It will implode and shower glass everywhere if it cracks even a little. Arguably this is the most dangerous part of working on a CRT.
still crt can last years and years . i have toshiba crt tv working still age 30 years. though it has a flyback replacement few months ago. still good as first day.
Fantastic, I have the first version of this monitor. It is still working (I hope for a long time to come), I don't particularly want to work on one of those. Great video, thanks!
I had this beautiful big CRT monitor that I regret having recycled. I was still living at my mother’s and I should have insisted on keeping it.
Thankfully my CM8833 still works a treat - but thanks to videos like this I am way more confident to keep it operational for much longer.
Nice christmas jumper btw. 🎅
Cheers for great video. I have a 1084 which I had salvaged out of our bin ,which my wife thought was junk. At little crack in casing, but still works.
Loved the video but the Space Ace clip really sealed the deal! subscribed!
Fantastic video. You've earned a new Patreon supporter! (not just on the merits of this video of course, just that it was about bloody time I recognised the value your channel provides to the community).
That desolder tool seems to do a very good job, I think I need one!
Thanks man. This evening my Commodore monitor lives again thanks to this guide.
I had one for my A500, great monitor. It also performed well as a TV via a VCR.
This model of CRT is one of those monitors that I used to have and now regret having let it go. Along with my original Atari ST, Sega Game Gear and Ilyama 17" SVGA monitor.
Great video Neil. A good tool for repairing crts is a mirror as you can see the screen while working in the back :)
Without me my tool is useless. Without my tool I'm useless.
Keep it up, Neil!
If any of your other CRT's need adjustment in convergence or geometry, I am sure many who watched this video would be very interested in seeing how to fine tune an older set that has gone out of spec. I wish there were more videos of the information you shared back when I was getting into CRT refurbishments. It is a very scary project to tackle, if you know nothing about the subject.
I managed to get one of these about 1 month ago for £40, came with manual and cables fir the amiga and the atari st
The picture is fantastic and decent stereo sound too
Excellent work Neil. I could have used a desoldering gun trying to install a composite board on my CoCo a few weeks ago! Looks like quite the essential tool.
Spent many a day in front of mine with an Atari, and I remember seeing them on TV. Mine came from Cash Converters for 70 quid, stank of cigarettes but worked fine for years until it was dumped in a chaotic house move. I did have to resolder the input socket once. They ran well in 60Hz! Alas I just can't look at a 50Hz CRT anymore, the flicker is painful!
Awesome video Neil. I'm sure my Commodore 1080 monitor from 1986 is going to need a similar treatment in the future.
I did a lot of Philips TV flyback transformers back when they were current. You normally don't have to dismantle the CRT base socket. Usually if you very quickly push then pull on the lead it will pop out. The new one just pushes back in and is gripped by the tang inside.
I miss CRTs! I enjoyed repairing them back in the day, I recently threw out my rejuvenator and all my Fluke Hi-V probes. Would have made for a good video - d'oh!
14:50 One can always use a plastic or wooden artist's brush handle or knitting needle, just sharpen its end in a form of screwdriver head. Still have one of my own, it also come very handy in tuning RF oscillating circuits and throttles.
That was very instructive, thanks! I'm in the process of fixing my Mk1, luckily not the flywheel but rather some strange intermittent contact on the power board (which is separate board on the Mk1). I'm told the flyback transformer's soldering is often dodgy on these monitors. I sure hope that's not the case, since it is quite some additional work to disassemble the whole thing. Cheers!
Thank you ... that was interesting! First time I’ve seen a flyback transformer fixed since working on colour TVs in my high school electricity / electronics shop (a loooong time ago 🙂). One student (not me) did find out about capacitor to ground via screwdriver ... there was a blue flash and a loud snapping noise. He looked “surprised”. 😮🙂
Great vid. Haven't had to change a flyback on any of my arcade monitors yet, but hopefully if/when I have to it goes as smoothly as your repair :)
5:50 Small correction: Unlike photons, electrons do have mass. As a consequence, the electrons in a typical CRT "only" travel at around 1/10 the speed of light. Yes, that's still mind-boggingly fast.
Lag!!!!!!
Yep, somewhere in the area of 10-15 nanoseconds if I'm not mistaken.
What a great video. ASMR for the eyeballs. Thank you!
Thank you Will
On the todo purchase list, nice CRT for the Amiga :) Thanks for doing such great videos.
Well this will come in handy as i have a 15" monitor with broken solder joints on the neckboard and wanted some refferences before trying to pry open the cap on the tube socket so that i can unplug the flayback and work on it separate from the tube and the rest of the cables.
A legendary monitor being lovingly repaired. Excellent 👍👍
Repair Level, Master Class
this might be a really odd compliment, but you have the best voice for 1.75x speed that I've seen on youtube.
I'll take that compliment! Thank you
😆
And watch out for those CRT necks - they’re really easy to break!
Great video pal! Just learned another lesson about repairing! Thanks for that! Cheers
Video starts getting out of synq from minute 14-15, just a hair, but its der. Awesome vids do love em all :D
The title of the video made it sound to me like you failed to fix the monitor, reading it again I realised it meant the Flyback had failed. I remember playing Space Ace and Dragon's Lair in the arcade back in the day.
Takes me back to my A500 days... Excuse me whilst I wallow in nostalgia...
For some odd reason, your rapid switch cycling at 11:40 reminded me of the opening hi-hat in the _Shaft_ theme. :^D
This is exactly the same problem I have with my 8833 II. Thanks for the video. Now I can find a professional and describe the problem better. Greetings from germany :-)
Greetings in Germany
Really making me want to get a CRT again
You can get those plastic adjustment tools on amazon... that said, you can get insulated shaft screwdrivers at Home Depot or Lowes.... or whatever the big box home remodeling stores are across the pond... I have no clue what those may be, or if our names are international.... but they're widely available.
Back in the early 90's I seemed to be doing one of those every day!
Yeah I had the 1084 monitor which died due the same thing as your where the LOPT died and at the time (many years ago) it was hard to get a replacment.
The LOPT also supplies some of teh Low Voltages too which was why my one was completly dead.
But back then I love the monitor.
There are many like it but this one is mine. I’m definitely steeling that line to use in one of my videos. Thanks for sharing. Regards Chris
I'm not sure if you were aware or not, but it's the The Rifleman's Creed - he was likely quoting it's use in the Kubrick movie "Full metal jacket"
More CRT repairs please!
Great video, something very satisfying about repairs like this :)
I happen to open up a Brionvega Agol 11 today to see how the fourhole propriarty powerplug works... I seems that most likely the brown and blue wires can be plugged with a C8 polarized plug, but there is a black wire and I'm not sure what it's needed for. Guess I'll have to test it with a multimeter.
This is the same monitor I had for my Amiga 1200.
We ended up throwing our amiga out due to the power switch breaking on the Phillips monitor (Had to hold the switch in), and also the Amigas HDD had failed and I was around 10 at the time and wasnt even allowed to attempt a repair.
If only I was allowed to keep it I could have fixed both problems easily.
Interesting video Neil.
Nice vid! Personally I would have capped it while I had the hood open. It would have brightened and sharpened up the picture for sure. And have been solid for years to come.
It's certainly on the list to do, monitors love a recap
This reminded me of when I took my PVM to a local repair-man to dissasemble it for me (I was too scared to discharge myself, even though it has a discharge circuit)... anyhow, when I got it back the image was so distorted and green, and it was making this huge high pitched noise... Called the repair shop and they said it probably got some water condensation inside from sitting in my trunk during the rain the previous night. Guess what - it wasn't that! I noticed some flashing from the side mesh of it and it turns out one of the high voltage leads that attaches to the flywheel was detached and it was shorting (like making this plasma arch) to the metal of one of the nearby capacitors. All fear aside I had to reattach it hahah. Good thing that that worked, but still not completely confident to dissasemble and clean a CRT on my own, there are high voltage capacitors there that are scary too - and even being careful it is not a feat anyone should underestimate. Thanks for the great content! ^_^
So relaxing watching these vids, great work Neil :)
If you find yourself doing this again, I think you could make an in-situ adjusting tool pretty easily by taking an appropriately-sized wooden dowel from the hardware store and filing the tip into a flathead screwdriver shape.
The simplest ideas are the best. I love this thanks Wayne
Thanks for the wonderful presentation, cheers.
Always best to keep these things alive, not only are they much better for older content but keeping them going cuts back on the e waste. I used to have same monitor back in my old Amiga days, it's still well worth having as I believe I am correct in saying it's will accept a 15hz signal thus it's Ideal for those 240p games. I still have lots of CRT tv's and vga monitors but when it come down to the VGA's as nice as some are, I have a Mitsubishi's Diamond Pro 2070SB more than capable of doing 2k, none of them can do older resolutions and it's all 480p and above unless play around with super resolutions and run it at 120khz. This Phillips is a great companion not just for a C64 or Amiga but also all those old consoles that are pre dreamcast.
Just up my street thanks rmc
Lovely monitors. I foolishly let mine go. One day... :) A very informative and clear tutorial.
"slide your tool under to discharge..." is a hell of a quote to be taken out of context.
I know tell me about it
It would be very unfortunate for the guy that put the wrong tool in there 😬
One thing you should probably mention, is that sometimes a dead flyback can take out the horizontal output transistor that drives it. Usually if this happens, you wont hear any whine though.
I used to have this Monitor, was fantastic monitor!
that was very neat work, well done.
always wondered what the hisss was the monitor wouldn't come on, I went through so many monitors back in the day, PS I can print you off a screwdriver if you need one to tackle those other monitors to focus and brightness.
I had one of these with my amiga. I changed it over to a philips cube tv using scart both amazing monitors
Excellent video, do you ever do Cub repairs?
I have a working Cub for my beeb that I have had repaired a couple of times.... my concern for the future is that it is literally a dying art. A video on Cub maintenance would be very useful.
Cheers Peter
I have three of these. One working with broken cover in front, one have problems with audio, and one with broken on/off switch (wont stay on). :)
I have one of these with this exact issue. I just cannot find anyone local who will works on CRT repairs and I just don’t have the confidence to do it myself :(
Darren Ramsay if you’re in South Gloucestershire I may be able to help...
That jumper has really K. O me 😂✌️
There's definitely a gap in the market for CRT monitors for retro machines.
they regulary turn up at Adswood dump in the TV section in Stockport. I have one spare fawn one ex some kind of PC going free but probable need of repair - lets assume it is a SVGA one.
LOL, I actually made a discharge tool very similar to that for opening up an old imac. I honestly think it had long been discharged but hey, better safe than sorry.
you were quite lucky. Usually when the flyback died, some transistors and diodes died too, even in the primary PSU side. I would advise you to change non polarised caps that are labelled with a warning sight in the schematics, when they dimish even a bit, they can kill your flyback