Fantastic series of videos!!! I'm getting ready to do this job again with my 2001 Ram. This was the video series that got me through it the 1st time, and is the one I used to refresh my memory. I had the same problem, I was in too much of a hurry to thread lock my plenum bolts the 1st time. Great advise twice in a row my friend!!! Thanks for the great vid's.
What a great series of videos! It was refreshing to hear someone give basic and direct explanation without a ton of foul language, horrible music. I'm facing the same job on my 2001 Dodge. I've ordered the gasket kit but have been dreading the job. This was a huge help for me. Thank you for posting it. Much, MUCH appreciated.
Thanks so much for your kind words! That is absolutely the goal of my videos - to provide clear instructions without being crude. I am by no means an expert, so I just try to explain each step as best I can so that even the most novice mechanic can follow along. I'm am so glad to hear you found this series helpful! I hope your repair goes well (or went well - I realize you posted your comment a couple weeks ago), and feel free to message me if you have any questions along the way. I'll be happy to try to help in any way that I can. Thanks for watching!
At least for the 1995 3.9L, the valve cover gaskets are 95 inch lbs for torque. Excellent videos for sure, thank you for making them! Makes me feel more confident digging into my 95 Dakota's 3.9 to solve the same problem. Videos like this series are solid gold!! I know what to expect, but also the little things - like what RTV and thread lockers I need, plus items like the bypass hose and fuel injector o-rings.
Funny story dealing with the throttle body on the old trucks (80's, with throttle body injection) In the manual it very specifically indicates you MUST torque the 4 throttle body bolts every 3000 miles with the oil change, it also demands the PCV system be checked and the pcv system air filter on the valve cover to be cleaned with carb cleaner then filled with engine oil and placed back on the valve cover as well as the pcv valve on the opposite valve cover must be tested and replaced if fails. AND don't forget your also required to test your EGR valve to make sure its opening and closing with increase of vacuum (aka revving the engine) if not.. REPLACE. lol every single oil change. don't forget! fellow 80's dodge guys
Amazing instruction Matt I have a old Dodge ram that inst worth the shop repair prices so I try to keep it alive myself. Your video will keep it alive a little bit longer :D
Awesome repair series man! Excellent work. You really should take the extra time to find the specific torque specs for the bolts. But none the less thank you for getting the job on video start to finish, step by step.
This sure helped me out a lot.it doesn't look as hard I I assumed it would be,just time consuming but I have the time.Thanks Matt job well done.so I don't have to pull the distributor out ,good.
At 12:08 of this video you are holding a sensor with the letter E just beside it. That is the Intake Air Temp sensor. The MAP sensor is on the front part of the throttle body, the one with a vacuum hose going to it.
Thanks so much for the videos man! Very explanatory and descriptive. Just gotta get the parts and get it done. I have a 98 Jeep with the 5.9 magnum so the radiator setup, etc is different. Looks like I'm gonna just be on top of the engine since I won't have room in front of it. If I couldn't do this repair asap for lack of time and money and this vehicle is my daily would it cause any major problems? I heard it could clog up the cat but I removed mine a while back. It also has been consuming oil like crazy and mpg has gone down the hole which I assume is also symptoms of this. Thanks so much for these videos though definitely are going to help me!
Very good vid Matt. I will be tackling it this coming weekend. Is it feasable to think one weekend is enough to get it done? I'm asking because I drive my truck daily and it is my only transportation to work and home. I am going to start on friday around 2:30 PM and hope to be done by Sunday evening.
Thanks for the video, how long do you think this might take someone with little mechanical experience on my own? Would a second person make things much easier? Also if you could make a checklist of tools and supplies needed that would be awesome. it seemed like you were mostly using a socket set and screw driver. My vans a 1999 dodge ram 1500 van 5.2 v8 would the process be the same? My repair manual is for all dodge and Plymouth vans up to 2003 thanks!
I would give yourself a full weekend to do this project, and would suggest a 3-day weekend if you are relying on the vehicle being operational to get to work on Monday. You can do it by yourself - I did - but an extra set of hands would be very helpful, even if for no other reason than to hand you tools. As I showed in this video, I removed the radiator fan and shroud so I could stand in the engine compartment, and I don't know how many times I had to climb out because I didn't have the tool I needed. As for a detailed checklist, I don't really have one, but you are correct that most of this can be done with a basic socket set. You'll want to have some stubby sockets for hard to reach places, and articulating sockets are always helpful, too. You'll also want an assortment of socket extensions. Obviously you will also need to have torque wrenches appropriate for the torque ranges specified (pay close attention to in-pounds vs. ft-pounds). Regarding materials, aside from the intake manifold and plenum gaskets, you'll want a new thermostat and gasket, as well as some extra hose clamps in case you have to mangle any OEM clamps to remove coolant lines (I think I had to sacrifice at least one during my repair). Also plan ahead for any other items you'll want to replace while you have things apart (valve cover gaskets, distributor/rotor/spark plug wires, etc.) and make sure you have all of that stuff on hand. Your engine should be identical to a Ram Magnum engine; however, I am not at all familiar with the van's engine compartment. It is very possible that certain things are laid out/located differently. However, you should be able to figure it all out. Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for the help, I ended up finding a shop that did the work much cheaper than any other shop in the area. The reason it was cheaper was that rather than removing everything from under the hood, they just took out the cup holder/center console from the inside to get to the engine. All in all it took them 2 hours.
What did they replace? I hope they didn't tell you they replaced the intake manifold gasket in this manner, because that is simply not possible. If that's what happened, you got severely ripped off and you should call and speak to the shop manager.
I'm guessing your manual is a Chiltons. Because my manual does not give the torque specs for only the 5.2 and 5.7 engines. I swear Chiltons makes me want to burn it every time I open this worthless thing. Can't find lthose numbers anywhere.
+Ma K Yeah, my manual is the factory service manual from Chrysler, not a Chiltons. I've never owned a Chiltons manual, but I've heard many people say the same thing. You can download a factory service manual at the following link (which can also be found on the "About" tab on my TH-cam channel): dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs-diys-and-how-to-s/301336-2nd-generation-dodge-ram-service-manuals.html
Richard Cowtails Well, a hiss could be a leak from a vacuum hose, or from your intake manifold gasket, or yes, it could be from the plenum gasket. In my case, my blown plenum gasket made a high-pitched squeal or whine.
I'm replacing my plenum gasket now. The sound coming from mine is more like a belt squeal, it's that bad. But it IS the vacuum leak. It starts once the engine gets warm and goes away if I pull off oil filler cap. Also once I pull the cap the suction of air rushing into the filler hole is huge!. Dodge really screwed this one up big time.
Fantastic series of videos!!! I'm getting ready to do this job again with my 2001 Ram. This was the video series that got me through it the 1st time, and is the one I used to refresh my memory. I had the same problem, I was in too much of a hurry to thread lock my plenum bolts the 1st time. Great advise twice in a row my friend!!! Thanks for the great vid's.
What a great series of videos! It was refreshing to hear someone give basic and direct explanation without a ton of foul language, horrible music. I'm facing the same job on my 2001 Dodge. I've ordered the gasket kit but have been dreading the job. This was a huge help for me. Thank you for posting it. Much, MUCH appreciated.
Thanks so much for your kind words! That is absolutely the goal of my videos - to provide clear instructions without being crude. I am by no means an expert, so I just try to explain each step as best I can so that even the most novice mechanic can follow along. I'm am so glad to hear you found this series helpful! I hope your repair goes well (or went well - I realize you posted your comment a couple weeks ago), and feel free to message me if you have any questions along the way. I'll be happy to try to help in any way that I can.
Thanks for watching!
Matt Payne Where did you get the manual that had your torque specs and other information?
This!!
@@BOOSTEDUTV
Thank you for this great series of videos.
At least for the 1995 3.9L, the valve cover gaskets are 95 inch lbs for torque. Excellent videos for sure, thank you for making them! Makes me feel more confident digging into my 95 Dakota's 3.9 to solve the same problem. Videos like this series are solid gold!! I know what to expect, but also the little things - like what RTV and thread lockers I need, plus items like the bypass hose and fuel injector o-rings.
Thanks Alex! I'm so glad you found this helpful - I hope you were able to get your repair done easily. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Funny story dealing with the throttle body on the old trucks (80's, with throttle body injection) In the manual it very specifically indicates you MUST torque the 4 throttle body bolts every 3000 miles with the oil change, it also demands the PCV system be checked and the pcv system air filter on the valve cover to be cleaned with carb cleaner then filled with engine oil and placed back on the valve cover as well as the pcv valve on the opposite valve cover must be tested and replaced if fails. AND don't forget your also required to test your EGR valve to make sure its opening and closing with increase of vacuum (aka revving the engine) if not.. REPLACE. lol every single oil change. don't forget! fellow 80's dodge guys
Amazing instruction Matt I have a old Dodge ram that inst worth the shop repair prices so I try to keep it alive myself. Your video will keep it alive a little bit longer :D
Great video series, thanks! Get yourself a Chilton or Haynes manual for torque specs. They are the best $25 you'll spend.
Awesome repair series man! Excellent work. You really should take the extra time to find the specific torque specs for the bolts. But none the less thank you for getting the job on video start to finish, step by step.
+Blame Mexico Thanks!
This sure helped me out a lot.it doesn't look as hard I I assumed it would be,just time consuming but I have the time.Thanks Matt job well done.so I don't have to pull the distributor out ,good.
+Albert Flagg I'm glad this was helpful! Good luck with the repair, and thanks for watching!
At 12:08 of this video you are holding a sensor with the letter E just beside it. That is the Intake Air Temp sensor. The MAP sensor is on the front part of the throttle body, the one with a vacuum hose going to it.
Great catch!
Thanks so much for the videos man! Very explanatory and descriptive. Just gotta get the parts and get it done. I have a 98 Jeep with the 5.9 magnum so the radiator setup, etc is different. Looks like I'm gonna just be on top of the engine since I won't have room in front of it. If I couldn't do this repair asap for lack of time and money and this vehicle is my daily would it cause any major problems? I heard it could clog up the cat but I removed mine a while back. It also has been consuming oil like crazy and mpg has gone down the hole which I assume is also symptoms of this. Thanks so much for these videos though definitely are going to help me!
Muchísimas gracias 👍
Very good vid Matt. I will be tackling it this coming weekend. Is it feasable to think one weekend is enough to get it done? I'm asking because I drive my truck daily and it is my only transportation to work and home. I am going to start on friday around 2:30 PM and hope to be done by Sunday evening.
Good job. old school tip, copper coat
what kinda mileage does your truck have? I did this fix on my 5.2 with 217,000 miles. Im still goin thru a quart of oil every 300 miles
What's the name of the gasket on the top side of throttle body? Can't seem to find it
valve cover bolt spec range from 7-9ft lb couldn't find straight answer so i settled for 8 ft lb
About how long did this take. I’m 99% sure my plenum is bad. I’m not sure if I need the repair kit or just the gaskets.
They valve covers go to 96...
great videos! Did the kit you purchased come with the new bolts for the manifold?
Thanks Sal! Yes, the Hughes kit came with new bolts for the plenum plate and I believe also for the manifold.
Did u use rtv on the plenum gasket
I am sure gonna, ultra grey
What is the name of the rubber ring ontop your throttle that sits under the Intake housing ?
air cleaner gasket
Would you recommend doing a gasket set or just the plenum gasket?
You're gonna have to do both regardless
Thanks for the video, how long do you think this might take someone with little mechanical experience on my own? Would a second person make things much easier? Also if you could make a checklist of tools and supplies needed that would be awesome. it seemed like you were mostly using a socket set and screw driver. My vans a 1999 dodge ram 1500 van 5.2 v8 would the process be the same? My repair manual is for all dodge and Plymouth vans up to 2003 thanks!
I would give yourself a full weekend to do this project, and would suggest a 3-day weekend if you are relying on the vehicle being operational to get to work on Monday. You can do it by yourself - I did - but an extra set of hands would be very helpful, even if for no other reason than to hand you tools. As I showed in this video, I removed the radiator fan and shroud so I could stand in the engine compartment, and I don't know how many times I had to climb out because I didn't have the tool I needed.
As for a detailed checklist, I don't really have one, but you are correct that most of this can be done with a basic socket set. You'll want to have some stubby sockets for hard to reach places, and articulating sockets are always helpful, too. You'll also want an assortment of socket extensions. Obviously you will also need to have torque wrenches appropriate for the torque ranges specified (pay close attention to in-pounds vs. ft-pounds).
Regarding materials, aside from the intake manifold and plenum gaskets, you'll want a new thermostat and gasket, as well as some extra hose clamps in case you have to mangle any OEM clamps to remove coolant lines (I think I had to sacrifice at least one during my repair). Also plan ahead for any other items you'll want to replace while you have things apart (valve cover gaskets, distributor/rotor/spark plug wires, etc.) and make sure you have all of that stuff on hand.
Your engine should be identical to a Ram Magnum engine; however, I am not at all familiar with the van's engine compartment. It is very possible that certain things are laid out/located differently. However, you should be able to figure it all out.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for the help, I ended up finding a shop that did the work much cheaper than any other shop in the area. The reason it was cheaper was that rather than removing everything from under the hood, they just took out the cup holder/center console from the inside to get to the engine. All in all it took them 2 hours.
What did they replace? I hope they didn't tell you they replaced the intake manifold gasket in this manner, because that is simply not possible. If that's what happened, you got severely ripped off and you should call and speak to the shop manager.
@@mattpayne4087 he has a van, they can get to the whole engine by removing the doghouse
I'm guessing your manual is a Chiltons. Because my manual does not give the torque specs for only the 5.2 and 5.7 engines. I swear Chiltons makes me want to burn it every time I open this worthless thing. Can't find lthose numbers anywhere.
+Ma K Yeah, my manual is the factory service manual from Chrysler, not a Chiltons. I've never owned a Chiltons manual, but I've heard many people say the same thing. You can download a factory service manual at the following link (which can also be found on the "About" tab on my TH-cam channel):
dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs-diys-and-how-to-s/301336-2nd-generation-dodge-ram-service-manuals.html
5.2 and 5.9 are almost identical engines, just a different crankshaft😊
So vacuum leak and that hiss the engine makes once in awhile that is deff the plenum problem?
Richard Cowtails Well, a hiss could be a leak from a vacuum hose, or from your intake manifold gasket, or yes, it could be from the plenum gasket. In my case, my blown plenum gasket made a high-pitched squeal or whine.
I'm replacing my plenum gasket now. The sound coming from mine is more like a belt squeal, it's that bad. But it IS the vacuum leak. It starts once the engine gets warm and goes away if I pull off oil filler cap. Also once I pull the cap the suction of air rushing into the filler hole is huge!. Dodge really screwed this one up big time.
@@salc1300 you are lucky you can remove your oil fill cap when it is hot, many of them will just slip on the ratchet