im pretty new to painting a year ago i started the Elite Edition starter kit but then life happened painted few different models different color schemes started over etc. But now im back and have time and in right headspace goal is to finish the box before the years end and i decided im gonna go Ultramarines. i was thinking of using the techniques in this video Base coat:Macragge bBue Full Shade:dakenhof Nightshade Drybrush: First Calgar Blue then after that light dry brush of Fernrisian grey. Clean up: go over with Macragg Blue leaving the shades in the corners clean up flat armor areas and stray dry brush strokes on the flat panels. Then the rest is the same as the video pretty much but im going red bolter casing and chain sword more in tone with the older Ultramarines. well this turned into a diary but great job on the videos they are very enjoyable and easy to understand 👍🤟
Haha! I was wondering if anybody would ever catch that. I forget what the sticker actually came off originally, but once it was stuck to that Retributor Armour it gave me a laugh every time I saw it, so it stayed. Don't worry, though! Paint isn't $250 a pot in New Zealand... though it might sometimes seem that way!
I’m not sure what it is with you mate, but you always paint EXACTLY the thing I want to paint and you show how to do it in the most efficient way to get the best results with little pain. THANK YOU you’re amazing, keep up the great content!
As a former "unpainted armies" player, recently got back (and painting them), i like it. Surprising how way simpler your models are (technique wise) than others "bigger" painters, but damn, they look suprisingly on par !
I know I'm commenting on a 2 year old video but I've recently started getting back into 40k (been out of it for years) and this is exactly what I needed to see. Love this channel and its nice to hear a fellow kiwi too :)
As one of my bosses used to tell me, "Everything's obvious once you know it, but you don't know everything." It's the littlest things that can make things easier which aren't always immediately clear!
I used to dry brush my Ultramarines, finishing it with Guilliman Blue glaze (I used to put too much on them because I was quite new to mini painting, the GW manager nailed them though). Now I've moved to edge highliting but I've kept the glaze; so the process is as follows: Macragge Blue base, D.Nightshade shade, Macragge Blue again (keeping those recesses nicely shaded), then a thin coat of Guilliman glaze, and finally the Calgar Blue highlight. I really like the very subtle glossy effect of the glaze and the contrast of the edges. This way I'm improving my painting methods but keeping consistency with my old minis; the 2nd Company. My new 4rth is looking nice with the Primaris models!
I've experimented a little with the glaze over blue armour before and I quite liked how it came out. I'd definitely need to start from a brighter colour, though, so something more like your layering up with Macragge Blue would make a big difference! I suspect if I were to try and mix techniques it'd come out a little dark, but everything is about practice. 4th Company is a great look, and I'm glad to hear it sounds like you're having fun with your painting. :D
I like the easy stuff. ;) The bonus with this lighter drybrushing is that you can go back and use it as a guide for where to place sharper highlights if you want to add a little more with some edge highlighting later!
I've just returned to painting after a bit of a gap (20 odd years) and have just completed my first marine. I don't hate it and I believe this is due to the techniques shared in your videos. I appear to be painting a second marine, so my thanks for all the help, it's very much appreciated.
"I don't hate it" is a good start! I'm glad this could help at all. :D If, by some strange chance, you should somehow have ended up painting anything more, I'd be keen to get a look!
Currently battling with a Blood Angel and I have to say, that the dry brushing hasn't been quite so successful to my eye. It's coming along though and when he's done, I'll trouble you with the results. Thanks again :).
Just bought and assembled my first ultra marines last Saturday after a gap of 20 years... now watching all these videos so I won’t hate my figs after painting lol
Thanks very much! The best thing about it - aside from being dead simple - is that it works for just about any colour. Swap out for Rakarth Flesh and Bloodletter and you can just as easily do that off-orange plasma effect for Death Guard troopers as well.
Cool video, I started nearly for the game "WarHammer" and one day ago I painted my first. But its not done, you are really good for this. So it is my new Hobby! Have a nice day:)
nice explanations, well done video. i'm currently starting to paint (and glue together lol) some marines I bought as a kid 15 years ago. thx to corona I got alot of free time.. lmao
Just wanted to say thank you for uploading this tutorial. I've been meaning to get back into 40k, and the last time i painted anything was 15+ years ago! This video really inspired me to get stuck back into it again! :) I pretty much copied exactly how you did your Ultramarines - and was quite surprised how well they came out! I think i must have watched this video 5+ times! (also watched many of your other ones - love them too!) One thing i would ask; is in your videos, could you list the paints used - as i'm used to the old GW paint names, so the new ones keep throwing me!
You're more than welcome! And, on top of that, welcome back. :D I hear a lot from folks that're getting back into the hobby after some time away, and it's really awesome to see so many old hands getting that same joy out of starting fresh and tackling a new faction or an old, beloved idea that's been waiting to see the light of day. Glad I could help out with the Ultramarines, too! I'm slowly going back through and adding paints to the lists in the descriptions. You'll find them in most of the more recent videos, except the handful where I'm basically chattering away and just painting for the sake of it, though those are few and far between.
Hey, I've just watched a few of your videos and you do some of the best dry-brushing I've seen for models you wouldn't necessarily think of for dry-brushing. There is one thing (I dunno if you've figured it out by now or not, but for anyone reading) your shades go on glossy sometimes. This is from the pot settling faster than paint does. Give it a good shake before each new model to re-mix the matte finish that's in the bottle. They'll be easier to visualize without the glossy shadows, and look better if you end up playing with em before you're 100% done with em.
The video and the result where great. I only missed a little more of detailed explanation introducing the colors to be used and explaining the painting process for the face. I will go ahead and check the other video about painting faces. Thanks for the video.
Thank you! If there's anything specific you'd like to see, I'd be interested to know. I'm always canvassing for what'd be the most useful thing for folks to see.
Thanks, Brett! I've gotten a couple of requests now for black armour, so that's something near the top of the list. Come January I'll definitely be doing a video with a couple of different ways of doing that in a similar vein to this.
Glad it could help! I think there's a tendency to dismiss drybrushing as 'messy,' but with a little patience - and that damned practice! - you can get some pretty decent results without needing a steady hand and to hold your breath while you're painting.
I like the method of dry brushing the base color with the light blue. I never thought of painting the gold with a silver undercoat first but it really brings out the color of the gold. Do you think this method would work for Space Marine tanks? This was a really helpful tutorial.
As it happens, this works fairly well for tanks, too. With the larger flat areas, though, it pays to be a little bit more selective where you apply the first wash, but drybrushing the hard edges and corners works really well to fake a sharp highlight.
I've been watching paint videos the last few weeks, and the one thing I've noted is that EVERY dude on youtube who paints minis gets called the Bob Ross of Warhammer.
What would be a good alternative way of doing green for the plasma? I'm going to be doing the Howling Griffons so also would Moot Green be good as a base colour for their eye lenses?
Love this video, and in the process of knocking out some intercessors using this method (with a bit of contrast paint for pouches). How would you adapt it for use on vehicles or other larger models, as I'm not sure the chronus blue over/dry brush would work as well?
Really loving your tutorials on dry brushing as im new to painting miniatures and a feel this technique would give me satisfying results. Could you tell me what size brush you are using and what make it is? Keep on keeping on!
For most of the drybrushing stages I'll use either a Medium or a Small Drybrush, both from Citadel. Funnily enough, I keep getting asked to mention the brushes more and I always forget while I'm chattering away. Something to be aware of for the future! ;)
Drakenshoff nightshade Maccrage blue Chronus blue Etherium blue Lead bletcher Bugmans glow Retributors Armor Reikland Fleshshade Gloss nuln oil on mettalic areas Cadian flesh tone kislev flesh stormhost silver libeator gold- details, user edge of brush celestra gray guillerman blue dawnstone grey white Vallejo Matt Model Color Varnish,
For just the helmet I'd probably edge highlight his helmet. You could drybrush it, but for a single piece of the miniature that's going to be a focal point - and unique in the squad - I think it doesn't hurt to spend a liiiittle more time and get the smoother result for him.
In theory, sure! It'll take a little bit of practice to get the right mix, but try adding just a fraction at a time because white can be quite powerful when mixing!
There's approximately a further 10 paints, beyond the core colors you start off this video with. I think your tutorials are excellent, but disclosing all the necessary paints would be great - just a thought : )
It's usually safe to touch within five minutes or so and you can work on it almost straight away, but if you can leave it for an hour or so before you get to painting it's a little safer.
You could, but it's rather a flatter colour than Drakenhof Nightshade would be. If you were to use the Quickshade, I'd suggest painting over a few armour panels with Macragge Blue again just to brighten them up some. :)
I'm surprised you didn't use a layer of Guilliman Blue on top of the blue armour areas, just for added richness (plus the highlights end up being toned down slightly, and they blend better with the Macragge Blue with this glaze). Another thing I noticed is that you didn't go back to Macragge Blue after the shading process like you did in your Blood Angels video. Still, a top notch tutorial regardless of the aforementioned observations/critiques. :-)
That's what I thought. Any way we can find out what you did there, why you're not there? Or would that dig up bad memories? Not trying to pry, just curious. Thanks. :-)
I was front line infantry! Not long before the blue shirts came in, I was dealing plastic crack and running campaigns in-store. Honestly, it came to moving cities and there just not being a space for me at a new store - a shame, but unavoidable. I was always well-treated and was lucky to work with a couple of really great managers that had a great eye for community support before the bottom line. Best job I've had!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio ok then I need to investigate further. Indy does it from a history channel, I think Mark Felton does it and a lot of youtubers do it that I listen to.
Well , im a super pleb then...for me , you painted it like a professional...I just use 3 colors , 5 AT MOST , and you used god knows how many colors , and called it basic...
im pretty new to painting a year ago i started the Elite Edition starter kit but then life happened painted few different models different color schemes started over etc.
But now im back and have time and in right headspace goal is to finish the box before the years end and i decided im gonna go Ultramarines.
i was thinking of using the techniques in this video
Base coat:Macragge bBue
Full Shade:dakenhof Nightshade
Drybrush: First Calgar Blue then after that light dry brush of Fernrisian grey.
Clean up: go over with Macragg Blue leaving the shades in the corners clean up flat armor areas and stray dry brush strokes on the flat panels.
Then the rest is the same as the video pretty much but im going red bolter casing and chain sword more in tone with the older Ultramarines.
well this turned into a diary but great job on the videos they are very enjoyable and easy to understand
👍🤟
A very good tutorial.
Camera - $ 200.00
Space Marine kit - $ 50.00
Retributer Armour - $ 250.00
The face someone makes when they see the price tag on your paint - Priceless
Haha! I was wondering if anybody would ever catch that. I forget what the sticker actually came off originally, but once it was stuck to that Retributor Armour it gave me a laugh every time I saw it, so it stayed. Don't worry, though! Paint isn't $250 a pot in New Zealand... though it might sometimes seem that way!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I was going to ask if it was made with real gold.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Warhammer is REALLY overpriced lol
That's not the normal prize? I thought it was just contrast paint. ;-)
Is there 14K gold in that pot?
I’m not sure what it is with you mate, but you always paint EXACTLY the thing I want to paint and you show how to do it in the most efficient way to get the best results with little pain. THANK YOU you’re amazing, keep up the great content!
As a former "unpainted armies" player, recently got back (and painting them), i like it.
Surprising how way simpler your models are (technique wise) than others "bigger" painters, but damn, they look suprisingly on par !
I know I'm commenting on a 2 year old video but I've recently started getting back into 40k (been out of it for years) and this is exactly what I needed to see. Love this channel and its nice to hear a fellow kiwi too :)
Turning the figure upside down is a trick that has eluded me for literal years and I am sincerely appreciative you pointed that out
As one of my bosses used to tell me, "Everything's obvious once you know it, but you don't know everything." It's the littlest things that can make things easier which aren't always immediately clear!
My dark imperium set arrives next week. Sooooo excited and will be coming back to this video for sur
Really liked the look -- I think I will use this for my Ultramarines
Retributer Armor special edition: Contains REAL gold!
Price wouldn't change
I use this video as a point of reference when painting my Ultramarines. Brilliant video, thanks a lot for doing it
I used to dry brush my Ultramarines, finishing it with Guilliman Blue glaze (I used to put too much on them because I was quite new to mini painting, the GW manager nailed them though). Now I've moved to edge highliting but I've kept the glaze; so the process is as follows: Macragge Blue base, D.Nightshade shade, Macragge Blue again (keeping those recesses nicely shaded), then a thin coat of Guilliman glaze, and finally the Calgar Blue highlight. I really like the very subtle glossy effect of the glaze and the contrast of the edges. This way I'm improving my painting methods but keeping consistency with my old minis; the 2nd Company. My new 4rth is looking nice with the Primaris models!
I've experimented a little with the glaze over blue armour before and I quite liked how it came out. I'd definitely need to start from a brighter colour, though, so something more like your layering up with Macragge Blue would make a big difference! I suspect if I were to try and mix techniques it'd come out a little dark, but everything is about practice. 4th Company is a great look, and I'm glad to hear it sounds like you're having fun with your painting. :D
Thanks, definitely inspiring n makes things simple. Banishes the nightmare of painting a mini !
Dry brushing is great. I will being doing that from now on. Also what you did with the face is so awesome.
I like the easy stuff. ;) The bonus with this lighter drybrushing is that you can go back and use it as a guide for where to place sharper highlights if you want to add a little more with some edge highlighting later!
I've just returned to painting after a bit of a gap (20 odd years) and have just completed my first marine. I don't hate it and I believe this is due to the techniques shared in your videos. I appear to be painting a second marine, so my thanks for all the help, it's very much appreciated.
"I don't hate it" is a good start! I'm glad this could help at all. :D If, by some strange chance, you should somehow have ended up painting anything more, I'd be keen to get a look!
Currently battling with a Blood Angel and I have to say, that the dry brushing hasn't been quite so successful to my eye. It's coming along though and when he's done, I'll trouble you with the results. Thanks again :).
Just bought and assembled my first ultra marines last Saturday after a gap of 20 years... now watching all these videos so I won’t hate my figs after painting lol
I love watching your painting videos. You make it look so easy.
Please Add Paints you use in the Info area. Awesome video.
I like your technique for the plasma coils. Nice and simple and looks great!
Thanks very much! The best thing about it - aside from being dead simple - is that it works for just about any colour. Swap out for Rakarth Flesh and Bloodletter and you can just as easily do that off-orange plasma effect for Death Guard troopers as well.
Cool video, I started nearly for the game "WarHammer" and one day ago I painted my first. But its not done, you are really good for this. So it is my new Hobby! Have a nice day:)
You’re a fantastic painter, thank you for sharing with us. This is a great video and extremely helpful .
That gold tip was super useful thank you!
nice explanations, well done video. i'm currently starting to paint (and glue together lol) some marines I bought as a kid 15 years ago. thx to corona I got alot of free time.. lmao
Great tip to paint the gold over the leadbelcher.
Just started with Warhammer...and I found this very useful...I'm not very good at the painting, but I hope using your tips I can improve..thank you!
Thanks for posting this. I'm about to start painting a space wolf army, but most or your tricks and techniques will come in handy.
Very nice! Thank you!
Your painting videos are the best!
I really enjoyed the tutorial, very informative and some great tips, thanks
Just wanted to say thank you for uploading this tutorial. I've been meaning to get back into 40k, and the last time i painted anything was 15+ years ago! This video really inspired me to get stuck back into it again! :)
I pretty much copied exactly how you did your Ultramarines - and was quite surprised how well they came out! I think i must have watched this video 5+ times! (also watched many of your other ones - love them too!)
One thing i would ask; is in your videos, could you list the paints used - as i'm used to the old GW paint names, so the new ones keep throwing me!
You're more than welcome! And, on top of that, welcome back. :D I hear a lot from folks that're getting back into the hobby after some time away, and it's really awesome to see so many old hands getting that same joy out of starting fresh and tackling a new faction or an old, beloved idea that's been waiting to see the light of day. Glad I could help out with the Ultramarines, too!
I'm slowly going back through and adding paints to the lists in the descriptions. You'll find them in most of the more recent videos, except the handful where I'm basically chattering away and just painting for the sake of it, though those are few and far between.
Great and easy to follow vids 👍
Very beautiful
Yet another brilliant lesson. Thank you!
Just what I needed to know. Cheers mate
Fantastic tutorial , well done.
Hey, I've just watched a few of your videos and you do some of the best dry-brushing I've seen for models you wouldn't necessarily think of for dry-brushing. There is one thing (I dunno if you've figured it out by now or not, but for anyone reading) your shades go on glossy sometimes. This is from the pot settling faster than paint does. Give it a good shake before each new model to re-mix the matte finish that's in the bottle. They'll be easier to visualize without the glossy shadows, and look better if you end up playing with em before you're 100% done with em.
Great video :)
The video and the result where great. I only missed a little more of detailed explanation introducing the colors to be used and explaining the painting process for the face. I will go ahead and check the other video about painting faces.
Thanks for the video.
No to świetnie ;)
Fantastic video!
Thanks!
Once again: great video and tips. Thanks so much!
Thank you! If there's anything specific you'd like to see, I'd be interested to know. I'm always canvassing for what'd be the most useful thing for folks to see.
Very helpful thank you.
Great Channel! Keep it up! Would love to see you do black or dark green colored armor.
Thanks, Brett! I've gotten a couple of requests now for black armour, so that's something near the top of the list. Come January I'll definitely be doing a video with a couple of different ways of doing that in a similar vein to this.
absolutely brilliant! one of the best tutorials i've seen so far! such a simple technique with a great result, thanks a lot :)
Amazing !!!!!!
This is great. What if I want a more cobalt looking blue instead of deep blue? What color do I use!?
I've gotten so much mileage out of this video. I've done like 2,000 points of infantry. Just such a GREAT TUTORIAL. And why is it so re-watchable??
Glad to hear it! :D If you've got some photos of all that infantry, I'd love to see what you've been working on if you're happy to share.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Lots of footage of them starting at time 26:50 here - th-cam.com/video/5N99J7c5ifc/w-d-xo.html
You turned me onto drybrushing. I have never been more satisfied with my 40k soldiers. 15 years of service to the Emperor, never happy until now!
Glad it could help! I think there's a tendency to dismiss drybrushing as 'messy,' but with a little patience - and that damned practice! - you can get some pretty decent results without needing a steady hand and to hold your breath while you're painting.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio My shaky hands are so grateful haha. How are you enjoying 8th edition, friend?
I like the method of dry brushing the base color with the light blue. I never thought of painting the gold with a silver undercoat first but it really brings out the color of the gold. Do you think this method would work for Space Marine tanks? This was a really helpful tutorial.
As it happens, this works fairly well for tanks, too. With the larger flat areas, though, it pays to be a little bit more selective where you apply the first wash, but drybrushing the hard edges and corners works really well to fake a sharp highlight.
Thanks, I'll try that.
I prefer D&D miniatures, but it is a good video.
this guy is the Bob Ross of Warhammer
the stories, the actual art, even a few quotes thrown in
I've been watching paint videos the last few weeks, and the one thing I've noted is that EVERY dude on youtube who paints minis gets called the Bob Ross of Warhammer.
@@e.x.watson9997 I didn't know that.
@@Wendigo115yt It's a very interesting phenomenon.
What would be a good alternative way of doing green for the plasma? I'm going to be doing the Howling Griffons so also would Moot Green be good as a base colour for their eye lenses?
Love this video, and in the process of knocking out some intercessors using this method (with a bit of contrast paint for pouches). How would you adapt it for use on vehicles or other larger models, as I'm not sure the chronus blue over/dry brush would work as well?
Really loving your tutorials on dry brushing as im new to painting miniatures and a feel this technique would give me satisfying results. Could you tell me what size brush you are using and what make it is? Keep on keeping on!
For most of the drybrushing stages I'll use either a Medium or a Small Drybrush, both from Citadel. Funnily enough, I keep getting asked to mention the brushes more and I always forget while I'm chattering away. Something to be aware of for the future! ;)
Drakenshoff nightshade
Maccrage blue
Chronus blue
Etherium blue
Lead bletcher
Bugmans glow
Retributors Armor
Reikland Fleshshade Gloss
nuln oil on mettalic areas
Cadian flesh tone
kislev flesh
stormhost silver
libeator gold- details, user edge of brush
celestra gray
guillerman blue
dawnstone grey
white
Vallejo Matt Model Color Varnish,
Pardon my misspellings
@@twintomwrx thats lot for 1 person
@@marcosniekers9520 Yeah, they add up fast
I only saw eight paints
Is there any substitute for Retributors Armor? It's just too expensive for me.
How would you do the Ultramarine sergeant with a red helmet? Edge highlight the helmet or dry brush?
For just the helmet I'd probably edge highlight his helmet. You could drybrush it, but for a single piece of the miniature that's going to be a focal point - and unique in the squad - I think it doesn't hurt to spend a liiiittle more time and get the smoother result for him.
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Thank you for the advice. Definitely following this tutorial for my Ultramarines
If I dont have all of the blues, can I mix maccrage with a bit of white?
In theory, sure! It'll take a little bit of practice to get the right mix, but try adding just a fraction at a time because white can be quite powerful when mixing!
I don't like bolognese, but I like to see how everybody else paints there models differently.
There's always one! ;) If it helps, I'll find a recipe for lasagna instead? ...whichever Chapter that'd be!
You should have put Ultramarines chant all over the video much like the varnish all over the model, but it is really good bolognese Ultramarine.
Why is your Macragge blue so much brighter than mine?
How do you paint deathguard plague marines
Probably like this! th-cam.com/video/w6E1C1M8CcQ/w-d-xo.html
What is the best way to prime
your blue looks brighter than mine. i use macrage blue but my models end up looking darker. does yours look brighter because of the lighting? jw
How do you fix mistakes after you wash and drybrush?
your accent sounds like your aussie but have lived in New Zealand for a while? nice vid
Спасибо.
Пожалуйста. :)
There's approximately a further 10 paints, beyond the core colors you start off this video with. I think your tutorials are excellent, but disclosing all the necessary paints would be great - just a thought : )
I do have a habit of picking up whatever's to hand and forgetting to mention it except in the video!
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Putting them in the description would be awesome too dude.
Could you share the paints you used in the video?
Thank you for this! Really useful. Also, I couldn't help but notice but did you really pay $250.00 for the Retributer colour???!
I actually forget what that sticker came off of originally, but it's always worth it for that reaction. ;D
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I just came home with a warhammer starter kit for £25 so I guess they had a collosal deal on today! Haha
Mine took 2 hours to paint black without the default blue showing Haha
Used a brush
Is your Vallejo Matt Acrylic Varnish WHITE Or clear ?
It's clear? It can look a little white when it's going on but it dries transparent.
Thanks , I was slightly concerned
Primed in black?
These guys are primed straight from the Macragge Blue spray can. With the Citadel colour sprays you don't need to prime with black or white first. :D
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Ah, well that's handy. How long does that stuff typically take to dry?
It's usually safe to touch within five minutes or so and you can work on it almost straight away, but if you can leave it for an hour or so before you get to painting it's a little safer.
Could you use quick shade ?
You could, but it's rather a flatter colour than Drakenhof Nightshade would be. If you were to use the Quickshade, I'd suggest painting over a few armour panels with Macragge Blue again just to brighten them up some. :)
is that red paint really $250????
You know, I forget where that sticker came from originally... No, the paint wasn't $250, but I'm hardly going to take it off, now! :D
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio lmao okay
Orks would pay for that.
but red make's it FASTA!!
I'm surprised you didn't use a layer of Guilliman Blue on top of the blue armour areas, just for added richness (plus the highlights end up being toned down slightly, and they blend better with the Macragge Blue with this glaze). Another thing I noticed is that you didn't go back to Macragge Blue after the shading process like you did in your Blood Angels video. Still, a top notch tutorial regardless of the aforementioned observations/critiques. :-)
Who remembers when ultramarine bolters had red casing? We used to undercoat with skull white in my day son! Make space marines great again!
Red casing, bright yellow shoulder trim and flocked bases with Goblin Green rims... oh, yes. I remember... ;D
Yep, my army has blood red gun casings and golden yellow trims.
Привет из России!!! Очень хорошая покраска!!!
Why does it look so simple when you're doing it...
Retributor armor, now with REAL gold.
Is it wierd that I got retributor armour for 7 bucks?
I do my shading the ghetto way, using watercolours :)
Dude you got ripped off for your retributor armour paint!! 😁
Tell me about it! ;D
yo i guess in your Retributer Armour is real gold ? xD
"The Workshop" ??
Games Workshop, the guys that make Space Marines and Citadel paints.
That's what I thought. Any way we can find out what you did there, why you're not there? Or would that dig up bad memories? Not trying to pry, just curious.
Thanks. :-)
I was front line infantry! Not long before the blue shirts came in, I was dealing plastic crack and running campaigns in-store. Honestly, it came to moving cities and there just not being a space for me at a new store - a shame, but unavoidable. I was always well-treated and was lucky to work with a couple of really great managers that had a great eye for community support before the bottom line. Best job I've had!
I feel you on having a great job and then it being gone. Thanks for sharing. :-)
That retributor armor is kind of expensive
2:05 Confirmed: British people cannot pronounce draw correctly. Every single British youtuber I came across pronounces it as drawr
Except I'm not British.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio ok then I need to investigate further. Indy does it from a history channel, I think Mark Felton does it and a lot of youtubers do it that I listen to.
Well , im a super pleb then...for me , you painted it like a professional...I just use 3 colors , 5 AT MOST , and you used god knows how many colors , and called it basic...