Check with the manufacturer of your vinyl flooring, but you'll need to use a solvent based adhesive. Pontoon Stuff has approved solvent based glues for their woven flooring. You'll need to get the aluminum as perfectly clean as possible, and work in small sections unrolling the flooring as you go. The adhesive has to be applied to both the vinyl and the aluminum and be basically dry before you stick them together. I would recommend doing some test pieces to get the timing right. I've used Weldwood Solvent Based adhesives with luck in the past when gluing vinyl to aluminum and fiberglass. We don't work on Aluminum decked pontoons because it's too hard to guarantee the end result.
@@tomspontoons Appreciate the reply. It’s been a chore removing the old adhesive from the floor. Slowly but surely with a wire wheel, paint thinner, scrapper, and sand paper. Pontoonstuff recommended DeckRite MD102 but was hoping to find something at Home Depot or Lowes to finish the floor this weekend. Thinking I’ll order what pontoonstuff recommends.
@@JoshwaBurke DAP makes Weldwood Contact Adhesive. A 3M Contact Adhesive would be a great option too if you can find it locally. I’ve used spray can versions for vinyling hatches and small floors in fishing boats and I prefer it over the more liquidy options. It spreads well when sprays and dries faster and more evenly. Again, test it on some scrap to get the timing down!
This restoration was well over the $10,000 price point. It had welding done, the rear deck extended, the custom sundeck, etc. However, to purchase a new entry level 20’ pontoon boat this year (not on a trailer) you’re around $33,000 to start!
@@tomspontoons thank you for your reply, and any further information. I have a pontoon that i just decided to restore. Will keep the rails and maybe get upholstery redone. Will need a floor on it. What is your recommendation for wood for that?
@@bigtiny1102 I highly recommend the marine grade treated plywood from PontoonStuff.com . Be careful of other “marine grade” plywood as it’s often non treated. Worst case I would rather use a treated plywood even if it’s not “marine grade”. Usually “marine grade” is referring to a side without voids/knots in the wood. Best of luck on your project! It’s a lot of wood but will be well worth it as pontoons last a long time and require very little upkeep!!
I need help what is the easiest way to get the old stainless bolt out of the fencing the lock nuts are rusted and don't want to come also the decking screws are bad ...Help
Sounds like you’ve run into all sorts of fun with the tear down!! For the fence bolts you will likely have to cut them off with an angle grinder or other metal cutting tool. We always try to cut them from the underside first, but have to go from the top side through the wood and under the railing to get to the bolt once in a while. For the decking screws, we use a small hole cutting bit without the center drill bit. Cut the wood around the screws, pop the wood off, then go back and cut the screws to make it flush. Or we’ve even cut the heads off the screws with an angle grinder just so we could get the boards off. Wishing you the best in your project!!! Unfortunately, You’re seeing why it’s not usually a quick weekend project…but it’s worth it when your boat looks new thanks to your hard work!
@@tomspontoons Thank you so much for your response it sure isn't a easy job I think taking the fencing bolts and decking screws must the worst part I am a girl but I do have industrial construction experience as I worked in structural welding if I could I would use a torch but that's not possible so it needs to be done the long hard way I see 😀 ..Thank you again for your help
@@annekennedy7356 be thankful you’ve got all that experience and aren’t a complete novice!! Your skills will come through for you when rebuilding it for sure! Best of luck and thanks for watching our channel!!!
I would love to buy the metallic paint or the pearl blue paint can you use the pearl or iridescent powder in your clear coat to paint the pontoon fencing
Hey Anne! I’ve never actually painted the railing panels. I’ve had customers have auto body shops paint them which I’d imagine could have those added effects you’re after…plus their paint will last forever versus most DIY options!
I know that struggle! Luckily my upholsterer had some left. We often have to get vinyl from other suppliers and it is very close in color. The good news is that some of the newer boats out there actually have their sun decks in different shades of grays and ivory than the seats. Just saw that the other day in a newer Crest!
@@tomspontoons Do you have a supplier that has something close. I got a couple samples from Marine Vinyl Fabric and neither of the two I got were even close; had alot of yellow tint.
Great work- learning a lot and it’s helping me with my pontoon project (1995 Monark SunSpa 200). When I removed my plywood I noticed the seams were filled with silicone. Do you use anything to seal your seams?
@@JDG022664 Yes! All seams get a strip of tar tape. This prevents water from splashing up between boards at the seams and causing rot or getting between the flooring and wood. PontoonStuff sells rolls of tar tape, it’s a must have for longevity!
Not our decal job on this one, but there are definitely instructions on the registration decal for spacing. You’d be amazed what I’ve seen with the decal being in the wrong place, numbers back on rear panels, etc. Luckily around here it seems like the only trouble is from outdated tags or a lack of stickers!
You guys have a recommendation for adhesive on an aluminum deck and vinyl?
Check with the manufacturer of your vinyl flooring, but you'll need to use a solvent based adhesive. Pontoon Stuff has approved solvent based glues for their woven flooring. You'll need to get the aluminum as perfectly clean as possible, and work in small sections unrolling the flooring as you go. The adhesive has to be applied to both the vinyl and the aluminum and be basically dry before you stick them together. I would recommend doing some test pieces to get the timing right. I've used Weldwood Solvent Based adhesives with luck in the past when gluing vinyl to aluminum and fiberglass. We don't work on Aluminum decked pontoons because it's too hard to guarantee the end result.
@@tomspontoons Appreciate the reply. It’s been a chore removing the old adhesive from the floor. Slowly but surely with a wire wheel, paint thinner, scrapper, and sand paper. Pontoonstuff recommended DeckRite MD102 but was hoping to find something at Home Depot or Lowes to finish the floor this weekend. Thinking I’ll order what pontoonstuff recommends.
@@JoshwaBurke DAP makes Weldwood Contact Adhesive. A 3M Contact Adhesive would be a great option too if you can find it locally. I’ve used spray can versions for vinyling hatches and small floors in fishing boats and I prefer it over the more liquidy options. It spreads well when sprays and dries faster and more evenly. Again, test it on some scrap to get the timing down!
About what would all this cost?
This restoration was well over the $10,000 price point. It had welding done, the rear deck extended, the custom sundeck, etc. However, to purchase a new entry level 20’ pontoon boat this year (not on a trailer) you’re around $33,000 to start!
@@tomspontoons thank you for your reply, and any further information. I have a pontoon that i just decided to restore. Will keep the rails and maybe get upholstery redone. Will need a floor on it. What is your recommendation for wood for that?
@@bigtiny1102 I highly recommend the marine grade treated plywood from PontoonStuff.com . Be careful of other “marine grade” plywood as it’s often non treated. Worst case I would rather use a treated plywood even if it’s not “marine grade”. Usually “marine grade” is referring to a side without voids/knots in the wood. Best of luck on your project! It’s a lot of wood but will be well worth it as pontoons last a long time and require very little upkeep!!
I need help what is the easiest way to get the old stainless bolt out of the fencing the lock nuts are rusted and don't want to come also the decking screws are bad ...Help
Sounds like you’ve run into all sorts of fun with the tear down!! For the fence bolts you will likely have to cut them off with an angle grinder or other metal cutting tool. We always try to cut them from the underside first, but have to go from the top side through the wood and under the railing to get to the bolt once in a while. For the decking screws, we use a small hole cutting bit without the center drill bit. Cut the wood around the screws, pop the wood off, then go back and cut the screws to make it flush. Or we’ve even cut the heads off the screws with an angle grinder just so we could get the boards off. Wishing you the best in your project!!! Unfortunately, You’re seeing why it’s not usually a quick weekend project…but it’s worth it when your boat looks new thanks to your hard work!
@@tomspontoons Thank you so much for your response it sure isn't a easy job I think taking the fencing bolts and decking screws must the worst part I am a girl but I do have industrial construction experience as I worked in structural welding if I could I would use a torch but that's not possible so it needs to be done the long hard way I see 😀 ..Thank you again for your help
@@annekennedy7356 be thankful you’ve got all that experience and aren’t a complete novice!! Your skills will come through for you when rebuilding it for sure! Best of luck and thanks for watching our channel!!!
I would love to buy the metallic paint or the pearl blue paint can you use the pearl or iridescent powder in your clear coat to paint the pontoon fencing
Hey Anne! I’ve never actually painted the railing panels. I’ve had customers have auto body shops paint them which I’d imagine could have those added effects you’re after…plus their paint will last forever versus most DIY options!
Looks great! If only I could order the ivory vinyl for my sun deck. I Keep checking and unavailable. 😫
I know that struggle! Luckily my upholsterer had some left. We often have to get vinyl from other suppliers and it is very close in color. The good news is that some of the newer boats out there actually have their sun decks in different shades of grays and ivory than the seats. Just saw that the other day in a newer Crest!
@@tomspontoons Do you have a supplier that has something close. I got a couple samples from Marine Vinyl Fabric and neither of the two I got were even close; had alot of yellow tint.
@@cindyczech3484 I will have to check with my upholsterer and get back with you!!
Great work- learning a lot and it’s helping me with my pontoon project (1995 Monark SunSpa 200). When I removed my plywood I noticed the seams were filled with silicone. Do you use anything to seal your seams?
@@JDG022664 Yes! All seams get a strip of tar tape. This prevents water from splashing up between boards at the seams and causing rot or getting between the flooring and wood. PontoonStuff sells rolls of tar tape, it’s a must have for longevity!
Watch out for having the state registration stickers side by side; DNR will write citation for not having it 4" from the numbers.
Not our decal job on this one, but there are definitely instructions on the registration decal for spacing. You’d be amazed what I’ve seen with the decal being in the wrong place, numbers back on rear panels, etc. Luckily around here it seems like the only trouble is from outdated tags or a lack of stickers!