I started writing a comment moments into the video thinking you were not bolting all of the cross braces, then you made me feel like s smart a__. Great job Man. Just tripled the value of that machine.
This one was sourced by the customer. We just installed it. We often buy them from River City Ventures in Ft. Wayne, Indiana though. RCV.Pontoons@gmail.com
I really need to do this to my 2004 26 footer. I got lucky and it has all aluminum flooring with carpet on top. Zero rot. I have the inboard motor though with merc alpha drive. Still runs good for a big beast boat. Good video bro.
Thanks for watching! You might want to look into a "sport toon" for your setup. That's where the center pontoon runs from the bow back to where it's just in front of the motor pod. If you add one with lifting strakes you could get better performance for trimming it out when running and it'll add that extra buoyancy for when you're loaded down. Switching to a full center toon for your boat might not be an easy option because of the I/O. I've never run into someone who's unhappy with their I/O pontoon!
What would be the difference between that toon and a Half toon using my original transom would that toon be about the same kinda like a sport toon with it being open in the back like that
I always prefer a full length center pontoon with integrated transom like this one over a sport toon that ends in front of the transom. Sport toons tend to have problems with water flow disturbance and ventilation issues. This video talks about the differences: th-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/w-d-xo.html
Does adding a center toon increase the hp motor capacity of the boat? I have a 1998 Lowe 185 fish n fun with a 50 hp motor. The capacity rating is 50 for the boat which seems fairly small to me.
It increases the buoyancy of the boat by thousands of pounds which means it can safely take the larger motor without any issues involving flotation. I've researched and dug into this with the USCG and other agencies and have come up empty leaving me to think that as long as the repowering is reasonable (not a 300 on an 18' boat) and safe then it's up to the boat owner to decide what to do. If anything, a boat that floats higher and has more power (within reason) should be a more seaworthy vessel!
I had a big problem with the upward spray generated by each of the pontoons hitting the floor crossmembers creating so much drag that even on plane it was killing efficiency. I decided to pan the bottom of the floor using “alumacore” sign board, it solved the problem nicely. I looked at some late model Tri-toons and noticed this being done by the manufacturer.
Yep! We call it "under-skinning" and it's become the norm for tritoons and even with standard pontoons that have fairly high HP or are on big bodies of water with rough seas.
Question for the Team and viewers that use pontoon boats for fishing. Does anyone have experience on if polished toons have an adverse effect to the fishing compared to a weathered toon? I'm thinking of having my toons polished to a mirror finish but not if it will make the fish below the boat lethargic.
Certainly a question I’ve never had before…I’ve always tried to avoid wearing bright colored clothes and stuff when fishing, especially in small bodies of water or shallow situations. Your mirror finish will only last a short while, as the dulling is oxidation of the aluminum. It’s a natural process that occurs (you can slow it down but it’ll be back before you know it) and it’s actually good for the aluminum as it adds strength.
@@tomspontoons That's a great answer, my home body of water the fish are not boat shy, but those uncharted waters I don't want to decrease my chances. Like the saying goes...If it ain't broke 😉
@@awakenedtotruth8419 I just look at the effort and/or money it takes to polish them and the fact that it might only last a season or so looking like that. I let those babies dull, and I just try to keep the crud off because that'll slow the boat down a bit on performance tritoons.
Any update video on this? How does it do with the bigger diameter center toon? Wanting to do this to a 98 Godfrey sweet water with 23in pontoons. Was thinking of a 24 or 25 inch diameter as they are easier to source….
We installed this in the late fall here in Michigan so it hasn’t been out on the water quite yet, but we will try out best to post about it. It got a brand new Mercury 115 Pro XS after it left our shop, so it should be quite a machine! You are in a great spot as 24” pontoons are quite common, and 25” can be found somewhat regularly too. We have a 16’ tritoon with 24” outer toons and a 25” inner, the handling Improved greatly, but the biggest difference is performance and speed with a full load of people and gear (empty speed didn’t actually change at all!).
I have 23" outside toons and added a 25" center toon on my houseboat that I made does adding a third toon make it my tipsy from being more top heavy with the houseboat? It's a 24' Riviera Crusier.
I love this question! The center log is typically larger diameter, in fact on our houseboat our center log sits at least 3-4” below the outers. It actually makes it less tipsy because it helps to raise the outer toons which in turn allows them to do their job of adding stability better. The lower a toon sits in the water the less stable it tends to be for the whole boat. Our houseboat is a 24’ as well. We have a whole series on the build and everything!
I have the 24’ center transom toon. And I’m looking to put a 150 vmax on the transom. But my 25’ 91 crest is maxed out at 115hp. My question is would I be ok with going over the max rating(115hp) since I’m converting to a tritoon? Please help.
That’s a great question. I can’t say “yes” or “no” without looking at it in person….BUT In general the things to consider are: - The max HP rating of the center transom toon. - The strength of the supporting crossmembers and outer pontoons that will be receiving the weight and torque of the upgrade. Hope this helps!
@@tomspontoons my cross members are square tubing. I have 25’ outer toons. Do you have a email where I can send you pics of the transom on my center toon?
Good question! Yes, I would use a standard round log if you’re unable to find a U shape. Some of the newer ones will have large lifting strakes to increase performance at speed. The main thing is getting that center toon in line with or deeper than the outers to improve handling. Also, Try Bill’s Boat Stuff, he used to have U shaped center logs with transoms in stock regularly.
@@tomspontoons Thanks alot that helps tremendously. I'll be patiently waiting for his shipment to come in. I've got and 85hp force on it and it moves good for a 28footer with a fixed roof. But something about a tritoon with a verado 250 seem much more appropriate. 🤣
@@2strokesimdone833 you’ll love having a center log on that setup. With an 85hp you won’t see much increase in speed, but buoyancy and stability will be greatly improved…and when you upgrade to the 250 you’ll be ready!!
The industry standard is to have the center toon either 2" bigger in diameter or 2" lower down in the water than the outers. A few manufacturers will have all 3 toons the same, but that's usually on their entry level tritoons that aren't built for performance and higher HP. I have a video explaining tritoon setups where we draw things up on the whiteboard.
I would have to say that a pontoon can be made to be any width desired, but you’d need that support in the center of a middle toon otherwise you’d likely have serious bowing in the middle of the crossmembers!! We have a video coming soon of a 12’ wide quad toon we just finished!
Hey I see you have the center toon pretty flush with the outer toons. Is that ok to do? I’m asking because I installed the center to I was speaking to you about, and i installed my center toon pretty much flush to my outer toons as well. And it sticks out about 5” in the front of the outer toons. Is that ok the way I installed it?? I’m asking before I install vinyl because I already did flooring.
And I see some ppl say you should have the center toon father back then the outer toons. They said I might have cavitation problems , handling problems and Turning problems. Is that true. I can send pics of the setup to your email
If the back end is flush you should be fine performance and handling wise. I personally prefer lining up the noses or even coming back with the center toon slightly to have it line up or extend slightly behind the outer toons in the rear. It’ll also reduce the risk of someone hitting it with another boat, dock, or when jumping off the front. Having a larger diameter center toon or having it extend deeper than the outers is more important in my opinion for handling and performance. No matter what the floatation and stability will improve even with a center toon that’s the same size as the outers. Bottom line, I think you’ll be alright!! Send over an email if you’re still concerned and I’ll take a look!
@@tomspontoons I believe my center toon sits deeper but not by that much maybe a inch or 2. But I will email you a few pics over shortly. Thanks for the quick response and help.
I have a 18ft bass buggy . I'm thinking of adding a 3rd toon and fabricating a transom on it for the outboard. Pontoon rightnow is just rated for a 60hp. Do you thing a 90 or 115 would be to much?
I would recommend working with a welder/fabricator to figure out how heavy to build everything to make it hold far more than the weight of the motor you want to hang. We did this boat last spring, fabbed the transom out of 1/4” thick plate and tubing. I could sit on the motor and nothing was going to move. I did a similar conversion on my 16’ pontoon and hung a new 60hp four stroke…it’s made it a completely different boat and better in every way! Crest Pontoon to Tritoon Conversion th-cam.com/video/yJelRaVzggU/w-d-xo.html
I have a question. I’m trying to convert my 91 25’ crest Savannah into a tritoon. What size center toon would you recommend me to look for? I have a guy with a 24’ center toon but I’m not sure what to do. Please help me
Great question! If your center toon is a little shorter that’s ok. It’ll likely sit back from the front deck a foot or two, but it’ll still float higher and perform better. The other big consideration is to try to go 1”-2” larger diameter for your center toon to improve handling and overall performance.
You could put spacers to drop the center toon down lower if needed too. A lower/larger diameter center toon will allow for better steering at speed by helping roll the outer pontoons higher out of the water.
We just try to do things the way boat manufacturers have done it for decades. They don’t seem to mind stainless on aluminum. Also, the only a stainless wire brush is suitable to finish cleaning aluminum when I weld…seems to be a great way to keep the aluminum pure and clean. Not a metallurgist, but trying my best to do what I see recommended.
@@tomspontoons true. I worked in "Corrosion Control" when I did a tour of shore duty in navy, and they taught us to use Nylon washers with SS hardware to avoid direct contact of 2 different metals. This mostly applies when boats are used in salt Water. But wont hurt in any envirement.
@@adp33 that’s awesome to learn. I love hearing about that sort of stuff. I was thinking the same thing about salt water, as it speeds up those processes exponentially. The other place in freshwater it might be an issue would be around a marina or somewhere with very light electrical current. Your method (and the Navy’s!) makes sense!
I started writing a comment moments into the video thinking you were not bolting all of the cross braces, then you made me feel like s smart a__. Great job Man. Just tripled the value of that machine.
Haha! Incentive to watch the whole video! Thanks for watching!!
Where do you find your 3rd toon
This one was sourced by the customer. We just installed it. We often buy them from River City Ventures in Ft. Wayne, Indiana though.
RCV.Pontoons@gmail.com
I really need to do this to my 2004 26 footer. I got lucky and it has all aluminum flooring with carpet on top. Zero rot. I have the inboard motor though with merc alpha drive. Still runs good for a big beast boat. Good video bro.
Thanks for watching! You might want to look into a "sport toon" for your setup. That's where the center pontoon runs from the bow back to where it's just in front of the motor pod. If you add one with lifting strakes you could get better performance for trimming it out when running and it'll add that extra buoyancy for when you're loaded down. Switching to a full center toon for your boat might not be an easy option because of the I/O. I've never run into someone who's unhappy with their I/O pontoon!
I have play craft 2400 2013 tritoon, can you add a ski locker to the center pontoon?
That would be a huge task, and nearly impossible to do with the center toon bolted on. Really a big project, but anything is possible
What would be the difference between that toon and a Half toon using my original transom would that toon be about the same kinda like a sport toon with it being open in the back like that
I always prefer a full length center pontoon with integrated transom like this one over a sport toon that ends in front of the transom. Sport toons tend to have problems with water flow disturbance and ventilation issues. This video talks about the differences:
th-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/w-d-xo.html
Thanks tom your videos and you have been very helpful
@@mcnasty77happy to help!
Great job! And great walk through video. Thanks you folks!
Thanks!! We will keep cranking out more content!!!
Does adding a center toon increase the hp motor capacity of the boat? I have a 1998 Lowe 185 fish n fun with a 50 hp motor. The capacity rating is 50 for the boat which seems fairly small to me.
It increases the buoyancy of the boat by thousands of pounds which means it can safely take the larger motor without any issues involving flotation. I've researched and dug into this with the USCG and other agencies and have come up empty leaving me to think that as long as the repowering is reasonable (not a 300 on an 18' boat) and safe then it's up to the boat owner to decide what to do. If anything, a boat that floats higher and has more power (within reason) should be a more seaworthy vessel!
@@tomspontoons thanks Tom, I appreciate the reply and I enjoy watching your channel very much!
@@wesleystoway6887 Thanks! Every view helps us out. We'll keep trying to crank out fun and educational content!
I had a big problem with the upward spray generated by each of the pontoons hitting the floor crossmembers creating so much drag that even on plane it was killing efficiency. I decided to pan the bottom of the floor using “alumacore” sign board, it solved the problem nicely. I looked at some late model Tri-toons and noticed this being done by the manufacturer.
Yep! We call it "under-skinning" and it's become the norm for tritoons and even with standard pontoons that have fairly high HP or are on big bodies of water with rough seas.
Question for the Team and viewers that use pontoon boats for fishing.
Does anyone have experience on if polished toons have an adverse effect to the fishing compared to a weathered toon? I'm thinking of having my toons polished to a mirror finish but not if it will make the fish below the boat lethargic.
Certainly a question I’ve never had before…I’ve always tried to avoid wearing bright colored clothes and stuff when fishing, especially in small bodies of water or shallow situations. Your mirror finish will only last a short while, as the dulling is oxidation of the aluminum. It’s a natural process that occurs (you can slow it down but it’ll be back before you know it) and it’s actually good for the aluminum as it adds strength.
@@tomspontoons
That's a great answer, my home body of water the fish are not boat shy, but those uncharted waters I don't want to decrease my chances. Like the saying goes...If it ain't broke 😉
@@awakenedtotruth8419 I just look at the effort and/or money it takes to polish them and the fact that it might only last a season or so looking like that. I let those babies dull, and I just try to keep the crud off because that'll slow the boat down a bit on performance tritoons.
Whats a good place to get logs I'm looking to build a 15 footer mostly be only 3 ppl on it at a time fishing the Mississippi and Missouri River
If you’re down that way, I’d check out Bill’s Boat Stuff. He’s down in Missouri and usually has pontoon logs as kits or individuals.
Any update video on this? How does it do with the bigger diameter center toon? Wanting to do this to a 98 Godfrey sweet water with 23in pontoons. Was thinking of a 24 or 25 inch diameter as they are easier to source….
We installed this in the late fall here in Michigan so it hasn’t been out on the water quite yet, but we will try out best to post about it. It got a brand new Mercury 115 Pro XS after it left our shop, so it should be quite a machine!
You are in a great spot as 24” pontoons are quite common, and 25” can be found somewhat regularly too. We have a 16’ tritoon with 24” outer toons and a 25” inner, the handling Improved greatly, but the biggest difference is performance and speed with a full load of people and gear (empty speed didn’t actually change at all!).
@@tomspontoons thank you for the quick reply. Great info thanks for the insight.
Absolutely! Happy to help!
I have 23" outside toons and added a 25" center toon on my houseboat that I made does adding a third toon make it my tipsy from being more top heavy with the houseboat? It's a 24' Riviera Crusier.
I love this question! The center log is typically larger diameter, in fact on our houseboat our center log sits at least 3-4” below the outers. It actually makes it less tipsy because it helps to raise the outer toons which in turn allows them to do their job of adding stability better. The lower a toon sits in the water the less stable it tends to be for the whole boat. Our houseboat is a 24’ as well. We have a whole series on the build and everything!
@@tomspontoons That's what I was thinking wanted to make sure thanks for the info.
@@faronmastin8683 absolutely, happy to help confirm!
I have the 24’ center transom toon. And I’m looking to put a 150 vmax on the transom. But my 25’ 91 crest is maxed out at 115hp. My question is would I be ok with going over the max rating(115hp) since I’m converting to a tritoon? Please help.
That’s a great question. I can’t say “yes” or “no” without looking at it in person….BUT In general the things to consider are:
- The max HP rating of the center transom toon.
- The strength of the supporting crossmembers and outer pontoons that will be receiving the weight and torque of the upgrade.
Hope this helps!
@@tomspontoons my cross members are square tubing. I have 25’ outer toons. Do you have a email where I can send you pics of the transom on my center toon?
Sounds pretty sturdy to me! TomsPontoons@gmail is where you can reach me!
@@tomspontoons ok I sent over a email. It’s pictures of the toon with transom.
I'd like to put a center log on my 28' playcraft. Having trouble finding a matching u shape. Should I just run a generic round log?
Good question! Yes, I would use a standard round log if you’re unable to find a U shape. Some of the newer ones will have large lifting strakes to increase performance at speed. The main thing is getting that center toon in line with or deeper than the outers to improve handling. Also, Try Bill’s Boat Stuff, he used to have U shaped center logs with transoms in stock regularly.
@@tomspontoons Thanks alot that helps tremendously. I'll be patiently waiting for his shipment to come in. I've got and 85hp force on it and it moves good for a 28footer with a fixed roof. But something about a tritoon with a verado 250 seem much more appropriate. 🤣
@@2strokesimdone833 you’ll love having a center log on that setup. With an 85hp you won’t see much increase in speed, but buoyancy and stability will be greatly improved…and when you upgrade to the 250 you’ll be ready!!
I'm considering adding a center toon. Should it be a little bigger than the outside toons or same size. I have 25" toons now
The industry standard is to have the center toon either 2" bigger in diameter or 2" lower down in the water than the outers. A few manufacturers will have all 3 toons the same, but that's usually on their entry level tritoons that aren't built for performance and higher HP. I have a video explaining tritoon setups where we draw things up on the whiteboard.
@@tomspontoons thank you
@@ebwhite1775 Always happy to help!
Can a 8 foot pontoon be converted to 10 foot have you any knowledge
I would have to say that a pontoon can be made to be any width desired, but you’d need that support in the center of a middle toon otherwise you’d likely have serious bowing in the middle of the crossmembers!! We have a video coming soon of a 12’ wide quad toon we just finished!
Hey I see you have the center toon pretty flush with the outer toons. Is that ok to do? I’m asking because I installed the center to I was speaking to you about, and i installed my center toon pretty much flush to my outer toons as well. And it sticks out about 5” in the front of the outer toons. Is that ok the way I installed it?? I’m asking before I install vinyl because I already did flooring.
And I see some ppl say you should have the center toon father back then the outer toons. They said I might have cavitation problems , handling problems and Turning problems. Is that true. I can send pics of the setup to your email
If the back end is flush you should be fine performance and handling wise. I personally prefer lining up the noses or even coming back with the center toon slightly to have it line up or extend slightly behind the outer toons in the rear. It’ll also reduce the risk of someone hitting it with another boat, dock, or when jumping off the front. Having a larger diameter center toon or having it extend deeper than the outers is more important in my opinion for handling and performance. No matter what the floatation and stability will improve even with a center toon that’s the same size as the outers. Bottom line, I think you’ll be alright!! Send over an email if you’re still concerned and I’ll take a look!
@@tomspontoons I believe my center toon sits deeper but not by that much maybe a inch or 2. But I will email you a few pics over shortly. Thanks for the quick response and help.
@@tomspontoons I sent over pics to your email. If you could check them out that would be great.
A couple of inches deeper in the water is great! That's a common way factory tritoons are done.
I have a 18ft bass buggy . I'm thinking of adding a 3rd toon and fabricating a transom on it for the outboard. Pontoon rightnow is just rated for a 60hp. Do you thing a 90 or 115 would be to much?
I would recommend working with a welder/fabricator to figure out how heavy to build everything to make it hold far more than the weight of the motor you want to hang. We did this boat last spring, fabbed the transom out of 1/4” thick plate and tubing. I could sit on the motor and nothing was going to move. I did a similar conversion on my 16’ pontoon and hung a new 60hp four stroke…it’s made it a completely different boat and better in every way!
Crest Pontoon to Tritoon Conversion
th-cam.com/video/yJelRaVzggU/w-d-xo.html
I have a question. I’m trying to convert my 91 25’ crest Savannah into a tritoon. What size center toon would you recommend me to look for? I have a guy with a 24’ center toon but I’m not sure what to do. Please help me
Great question! If your center toon is a little shorter that’s ok. It’ll likely sit back from the front deck a foot or two, but it’ll still float higher and perform better. The other big consideration is to try to go 1”-2” larger diameter for your center toon to improve handling and overall performance.
@@tomspontoons 1”-2”? What do you mean by that? This is my first boat. So excuse my lack on knowledge
@@tomspontoons do you mean the depth? Should it sit lower than the outer toons?
Diameter is what I’m referring to. That will help it sit deeper in the water than the outer pontoons.
You could put spacers to drop the center toon down lower if needed too. A lower/larger diameter center toon will allow for better steering at speed by helping roll the outer pontoons higher out of the water.
Put nylon washers between the boat structure and the washer so the SS does not made direct contact with aluminum which would cause galvanic corrosion.
We just try to do things the way boat manufacturers have done it for decades. They don’t seem to mind stainless on aluminum. Also, the only a stainless wire brush is suitable to finish cleaning aluminum when I weld…seems to be a great way to keep the aluminum pure and clean. Not a metallurgist, but trying my best to do what I see recommended.
@@tomspontoons true. I worked in "Corrosion Control" when I did a tour of shore duty in navy, and they taught us to use Nylon washers with SS hardware to avoid direct contact of 2 different metals. This mostly applies when boats are used in salt Water. But wont hurt in any envirement.
@@adp33 that’s awesome to learn. I love hearing about that sort of stuff. I was thinking the same thing about salt water, as it speeds up those processes exponentially. The other place in freshwater it might be an issue would be around a marina or somewhere with very light electrical current. Your method (and the Navy’s!) makes sense!
These are not considered boats. A floating deck or barge maybe
They fill the needs of tons of folks getting out and enjoying the water. Heck, some go 50+ mph these days!!