Filament Extruder #4 - Finally Making Some Filament
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ค. 2016
- The assembly of the extruder is completed and the first squirt of plastic is made.
Tools Used:
Mini Metal Lathe: amzn.to/2srIdoz
Centering Drill Bit: amzn.to/2srW9io
Machinst Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/2us5VlU
Angle Grinder: amzn.to/2sOEsIV
Components Used:
Filament Pellets: amzn.to/3uDu87Z
1/2 inch Bearing: amzn.to/2srz0g5
1/2 Auger Bit: amzn.to/2tSXAdY
Sabertooth Motor Controller: amzn.to/2sOh0M2
Cana Kit Motor Controller: amzn.to/2usiiyo
PID/Thermo COuple: amzn.to/2uM7c6G
Making Stuff Patreon Page: / makingstuff
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Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means at no cost to you, a very, very small commission will be paid to Making Stuff to help cover the cost for projects like this one.
Thanks for watching!
#filamentextuder
#3dprinting
#preciousplastic - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Its really cool seeing these desktop extruders
Hey, whether it works or needs improvements is secondary to the fact you are trying to make something. I totally commend you for that. That is quite the undertaking and shows that by using your brain to try stuff out is a really great exercise at growing your knowledge base. Anyone here who criticizes is most likely doing so from their couch or puter chair. "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." -Thomas A. Edison
Congratulations on making the filament. Once you have a water bath it will not be sticking anymore. When I worked in a plastic plant we went directly from the extruder to the water bath. Keep on keeping on.
But isn't it bad to get water into the filament?
No water penetrates the filament.
Amateur Redneck Workshop so that is why you dry filaments before use and why there are drying "salt" in the packages?
But yes, I have noticed that professional makers also use water paths, both cold and warm. So I guess during manufacturing there are no problems.
When I worked in the plastics plant their were no 3d printers to make filament for (1960 era). When processing plastic before it gets to the people who make retail products all plastic is extruded into a water bath to cool it off so it becomes a solid and then chopped into small pellets so it can be blown into a rail car. This is why I assumed this channel would also have to cool the filament so it would solidify.
But still, water in filaments are a problem when 3D printing.
The drill bit is scraping the pipe surface inside and thus you find the shiny metal pieces in the filament. Just requires an alignment effort and then it should be ok. Great work.
Sir if you know that could you please explain the heating where takes place and also how we heat that plastic polymer
muy interesante video, gracias por transmitirnos tus conocimientos, Saludos desde venezuela
great vid, here is a good tip on drilling that brass plug. find a drill to same size as the inside, and drill a fraction out, just enough to see a bit of the brass come up the drill bit, this has 2 benefits. 1st it will smooth out the inside and secondly it creates a centre so you can then add the 1.8mm drill bit into the drill and then make your hole from inside the plug/bung as the drill bit will also find its center amd the drill hole will have a micro spiral the right way.
hint if you make a few types with bigger and smaller size holes you then can swap/change to suite for the types of plastic,
or if a good engineer/metal worker, one could make a nozzle governor
Great project!
Some suggestions, you can ignore if you want to. :-)
Put a cooling fan under the hot end, and it will cool of faster and not stick on everything. Also you might want to print a nozzle for the fan that can cool down to filament more efficient.
You might want to put the drill bit in the lace and make a short tip on the drill bit and a hole into the inner part of hot end center, not going through. That way your drill bit will not go of center and scratch the tube. The output of the filament could go a bit off center from the center hole you made previous. I don't think it has to go out in the middle.
Sometimes it is interesting to put right after the nozzle a small water container to solidify the PET, as it has a fast cooling rate to do so. Then you just hook it up to your winding hardware. Nice project, congrats!
Great!. It is exactly what I was looking for.
cool video but you probably want to use a larger diameter hole for your extruder nozzel as the plastic cools at a smaller diameter. Awesome work though, I cant wait to try to build one of these.
Excelente el diseño, muy buenos los principios utilizados.
This is an old video... and you are obviously a very knowledgeable man... with the capability to choose, design, and implement every mechanical and electrical aspect of anything you set your mind to.. .. I am inexperienced in this topic... very very much so... I'd like to ask you: why not gravity feed the filament and cool it on the drop as with continuous casting steel?
thanks to anyone who'd like to share on the topic... and thanks for sharing your adventure with recycling plastic from the home shop.
Hello,
Thanks for this video series.
As you very rightly chose the tapered copper bolt because it is tapered, instead of trying to hit the center from the external face with a lathe and drill at 5:30 , I would recommend doing the same but starting drilling from the inside. The tapered angle would guide your drill, also all copper burrs would end up on the outside and can easily be shaved.
This serie to build an extruder as a DIY project was done 3 years ago from what I see, with some trials and errors. As much as the venture can be fun, would you consider making a new series going straight to how to build one right from first try, using your lessons learned?
Also very interested in the schematics and code used for the controlling electronic for the stepper, heater, and so on..
Thanks!
A tip. If you use low expansion foam for windows and doors and place it inside of your fram tubes, you will eliminate the echo. Even loosely stuff the tubes with insulation. Rubber undercoating spray on the outside of the hopper will eliminate some decibels from your auger bit.. hope it helps. Cheers
I used to work in a factory making plastic rolls and bags. We would start the round extruder which faced vertically and pull it as a 'lump' at the speed of the machine. We would take it up stairs and wind it through a system of rollers. It would loop over the top one and then down through another set of rollers and eventually onto a cardboard roll at ground level. We would then adjust the air pressure inside the ring until the balloon was 'stable' The trash would be rolling onto the first cardboard tube. Once the knife was set to cut one side of the balloon, (if it was going to be a continuous roll). and the plastic was running flat and at correct width we would spin the roller over onto the second roller and discard the trash roll for recycling. The machines operated 24/7 and only stopped when being maintained or if a different colour or size was required.
Awesome work. Im going to make one.
cool. The filistruder i put together did the same contaminating thing. They say to run a pound of plastic to clean it out and after that should be ok. The inside of the pipe is rough and does get drilled out from the spinning bit that's most likely where the metal shavings come from. Filistruder also sells a super fine stainless steel wire mesh screen that traps the metal but there kinda pricey.
I have seen others use the screen from a faucet aerator. There is so much junk in there right now that it would probably clog the screen :) I thought about trying a screen after it cleans itself out a bit.
Cana kit UK still in Business and your controller is $69.95 Nice to know we can buy this kit here in the UK great videos many thanks
Very smart! I like it! Do not put drill bit in sandblaster because it will dull it.
Consider configuring output facing down so that filament will self feed.
Marking staff
Very nice video channel
Thank you upload video
I worked in a conduit production plant where at the end of the extruder the various sorts of plastic were cooled in a waterbed. At the end of this waterbed was an automatic winding system. It could wind with an adjustable strength. Maybe the next project?
Hi Bob, Nice video !
I would like to make myself an extruder, but i can't find a good heater...
Can you please give me the reference of your heater band ?
Thx !
Try extruding vertically instead of horizontally. Down into a cold bath, under a roller and then under and over rollers to change to the horizontal.
I think, if you squeeze the filament directly into the water, you won't have a chance to pull it. Filament is pulled while it's hot. If it gets cold, you can't pull it. And without pulling, the filament won't be consistently the same diameter.
Was kinda thinking to introduce a mini extruder of this kind on the home built 3dP
very intutive
thank you for the video. can you explain how to make the heat generation ? and how to connect the pid contoller ?
Great video. Any idea about making one of these machines with a porthole die so that it can extract tubing?
Beautiful work man. Can you list the electronic components you used and their serial numbers ?
Making Stuff Excellent Job ! What are the characteristics of the engine (power, voltage) ? thank you.
Good job. I am thinking to a new kind of it.
Hi there, What nozzle hole size have you converged to to optimize speed? Would you recommend going bigger than 1.75mm and pull to the correct diameter or stick with the 1.75mm hole? I was thinking that maybe a bigger hole could increase the production of filament per second. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks
Is the drill bit heated? or is the only thing heated the nozzle, and how strong does the motor need to be, what if I'm using fine powder instead of pellets?
Planning on building my own thanks for the info and well done on the video!
Black specs are from burned plastic that accumulates at tip of drill bit screw. Use the angle grinder to make a sharper tip on the front to make the dead zone as small as possible.
wicked man
Great little project. Have you considered making a machine that will recycle/process thin plastic bags. That is the ability to feed them in, melt them into something reusable as a feed stock etc.
Yeah, recycling plastic is one of my goals.
You need a bucket of water underneath to cool the plastick so it does not stick. It also helps with consistancy because it's the 0lasticks not cooked off it can change size and go off of 1.75mm
VOCÊ ME DEU MUITAS IDEIAS PARA FAZER UMA DESSAS OBRIGADO
you may want try a little lapping compound on the smooth end of your drill bit to increase size of your hole in your nozzle.
Add a cooling fan or two at the nozzle end, that'll solidify the filament much faster so it won't stick to the table
Awesome video! Thanks so much for making this!
I wish I had found your channel years ago. I subscribed on the 1st one I watched.
Thanks!
Cool video! People like you are pioneers in at home filament recycling which is truly the way of the future. A 3D printer isn't very useful if we have to get our filament from china.
I've heard the size of the filament has to do with the volume and pressure behind the extruder nozzle and not so much with the size of the hole on the extruder nozzle. If you've ever done any caulking you'll know what I'm talking about.
Something to think about before drilling a larger hole!
Yeah I agree that lack of pressure is part of the problem. I just can't increase it enough with off the shelf parts.
Hello, good job! How many watts are needed for a single band heater to reach > 160 °C ? Thanks.
Hi,
What exactly are the engine features you are using?
If you share the speed of rotation and engine power you have set, and so on, I am very happy.
you need a cooling fan as it comes out so it doesn't stick. Also a V channel made from a nonstick material will help too.
Enfin une idee que je recherchai a savoir comment faire du nouveaux filament PLA abs ect car mon imprimante 3D en rejet pas mal avec les premier suppor et je recherchai une facon petit mes ingenious davoir une extruder pour le but De réutiliser. Mon plastics de facon efficace et de payer moin cher la matiere ...merci aux confecteur 😳👍👍👍👍
i really want to make this , so did it work?
One heating point isn't good. On the middle of the pipe you can adding second pre-heater with lower temperature than on the die (the best is a 3 point heating 80-120-165°C). The produced material can goes to moving belt, if you change speed of the belt you can control diameter of the filaments. If you pulling material faster you produce a thinner filament.
do you have a video explaining how to ser up the pid temp controller?
Rogohoco Aguilera de la garza 一
Hi, I am building this machine, but I have some problems with the heating band. Which did you use?
Sir pls explain the heating take place and also where we use the heater
Serious question for those of us that aren't able to build one would you be intrested in making on for someone
Mastercraft vernier ! Hi from a Canadian !
hi ,it was awesome!
Now I want to work on my project, but I do not know what kind of motor (with how much torque) I use.
If you help me in this, I've been greatly gratified to you.
Thank you for the video.
Sir you got a ans for the motor specification if you know that could you please give a specification plss
Lo mejor que e visto del tema FELICITACIONES
Awesome job one thing I'm wondering is how well a drill bit instead of an an auger bit would work
Check out Filament Extruder #13 video. I just posted it.
hi, what is the screw/auger bit speed? we made one, for our mechanical design project..
I just made a machine similar to this and it looks to me like you're heating band wires are connected to the 1 and 2 posts of your solid state relay. Is that correct.
nice job bro you are amazing
Thanks!
how about using compressed air and some small nozzles to create a vortex that both cools and holds the filament from falling on the extruder nozzle?
just what i wa thinking. use a wind tunnel type design with dip to control heat coils and compressor air a fan
Or make the nozzle vertical.
at about 5:40 you tried to use the center finding drill bit on your bench top lathe... but i didn't understand why the center marking attempt failed? i'm very new to making things, appreciate any teachings from all the generosity from you guys! Thanks.
I found out on this project that plumbing fittings are made with really low tolerances. They aren't made to be true or square, they are made to connect pipes together and be water tight. The square part of the fitting is not centered with the round part, so when you look at it from the front, it looks off. If you look at it from the back, it looks right.
I have a question why a heating are you using a thermocouple and a heating band I made a similar machine I got my auger bit at the flee market too.
can you show the schematics for the pid controller? I am attempting the project and am having trouble hooking multiple band heaters to the pipe and need some assistance..
Excellent work! Do you think with this setup can be possible inject into a (small) mold? Thanks!
It's possible. I haven't really thought about injection molding. I have been focusing more on 3d printer filament.
or make giant printer and mount this whole setup as your extruder :)
fancy furniture anyone? vimeo.com/33026239
When Inject moulding, the plastic being extruded has to be under pressure to achieve a uniform, consistent density through out the part being moulded. Great pressure can be achieved by pairing different profiles between the screw and the barrel. In this case the drill bit and the pipe. Perhaps experiment with different types of drill bits. If a concrete bit modified to fit the pipe, since it has a tighter screw pattern would create more pressure at the extruder end??
Wow! Great!
Try adding a shallow water bath beneath the filament as it's extruded. If nothing else it'll prevent sticking to your table.
You are the teacher !! It could detail the characteristics of the engine for the market or a commercial reciprocating engine.
cool job
Greatest video
How far the drill need to stay to the nozzle? and the hole need to be 1.5 to get a 1.75 filament? thanks
That looks great man. I wonder why you missed the center on your lathe? Is your chuck centered up with your tail stock?
I have found that plumbing parts aren't made for precision. The flanges on the drill bit pipe are off too.
good work but u need add water will cool down
lowering the heating temp and adding a small cooling fan would reduce the sticking.
Save up all your old milk jugs, chop em up, blitz them in a blender and run that through the 'struder. That'll probably clear out any crap left in the pipe.
Coming along nicely! :D
Good Idea!
What kind of a blender are you using to grind HDPE in? Because I've tried it in an Osterizer here and it simply does not have the power. I sharpened the blades razor sharp, and it still can't even then. A Vitamix might work, but they cost close to $400.
Paul Frederick whye wpuld that matter. its the combination of it heating up/melting then grinding.
To heavy duty for so little saving if you ask me. 20bucks kids type chocolate melter with extruder and power boost maybe add ceramic element.
I think we all over think this is manufacturer size lol. Manufacturer size with a beggers bowl😂😅😃😄
Paul Frederick turn heat up
aha I see. his done it the hard way. can be shorter and element at the bowl. drill grind and push. think thats what lymann does. I goto check. Thats bit of a noisey crunchy way hos done this. no need at all.
tem como vc por a lista dos matérias que usou ?
Does the drill auger go all the way to end cap or is there a space?
how much temperature did you set and which type of plastic did you use
the camera angle for the lathe was perfect! what you talking about willis?
I couldn't get the tool holder out of the shot unless I took it off of the lathe. Guess I'm just being too picky.
Awesome!.
por donde sale el filamento el orificio de cuanto debe de ser
y que clase de motor utilizas
fantastic first start. I rember that day. then there was a lot more work to do. lol. but me up on Skype Tomarrow. I did not respond to your email now that I think about it. TTUL. keep up the good work! ~RUSS
center in a lathe is reliant on the concentricity - or runout - of your work relative to the lathe itself. that is not a center-finding drill bit, that is a center drill, with a 60 degree taper to index a lathe center into the 60 degree hole which provides stability to the work. center, here, is only relatively to the center of the spindle, so if your work is not mounted concentric to the lathe, you will have runout - your issue.
a better way to find center on square is to scribe across the corners diagonally to make an X. the center of the X will be the center of the part.
Kevin Keel Additionally, he's clamping onto tapered pipe threads skewing the plug. Another alternative to get closer to center would be installing the plug into a coupling for a drive sleeve.
for brass plugs, which are already machined, the best way to get a hole drilled into the center is to drill from the inside. they are already drilled out and thus leave a 120 degree taper in the end - the rest of the machining is done relative to that.
stick your drill bit into the hole end and it will find center by itself.
Kevin Keel yep, that, too.
Hi man. What do you use to heater?
Mist nozzle at extraction with hot water a little cooler than the extruder nozzle. Enough to cure the filament to remove the tackyness. Placed above a bath recycling the water.
hello.. nice work done here. please can i have a blueprint of the design and approximate cost estimation in africa?
Still working after 3 years, have improvements?
Do you think that extruding horizontally is ideal. It seems that a vertical extruder would make the output more symmetrical. There may be a certain feed rate/temperature/draw rate that makes for sweet production without the product dropping off. I was of the opinion that commercial extruders like this use some kind of negative feedback system between draw rate and dynamically measured filament width. Sounds challenging but may be doable, perhaps by measuring beam blocking time of an oscillating laser. Then there's the whole matter of the take-up system and how far/long you have to let the filament go before it is cool enough to roll up. Then theres the matter of making a decent spooling system. Lotsa work. :-) It sure will be nice when the community works out all these issues and we can do this in a practical way.
foxpup
Hi.Firstly congratulations. I wanna ask you something about diameter.Does your machine work regularly in diameter between 1.65 and 1.80 ? I wonder if it was vertically,Would it work better ? and why did you use heater in front of nozzle output?
Check out Filament Extruder #13 video. I just posted it.
Ok thank you this video is really helpful for me. But can you share your caliper board schematic?
Because i do not understand how to do this
The caliper code and schematic are posted on the Making Stuff web site. www.makingstuff.info/Projects/Digital_Calipers
Which must be the distance between nuzzles inside and the end of the drill
Specifications of temperature controler?
Hi there where do u get the metal and nozzle from bud thanks
What is the temperature setting on heating element?
Very nice
Great project! , Hi, what is that heater? , please give me idea where can I buy that. Thanks!
Sir if you know that could you please msg the heater specification
can someone explain to me why the filament didnt contain air bubble?, since there must be air bubble in the system, right?
👍🏼
مدهش
Thank you for your video and could you please tell me the diameter of the nozzle to ensure that the size of the filament is 1.75 mm? Thank you very much
It was a little less than 2mm I think. The idea was to pull the filament to the correct diameter by changing the speed of the rollers.
Air cooling bro. Think 3d printer simplified, as that is what a filament maker is. You can even get 1.75 nozzles cheap, and have replaceable nozzles. For the temp needed, a K type thermocouple is not needed, and a standard 100k thermistor (good to around 280-300C) is actually more sensitive. However, you need to make a part cooling fan, lol. Think small 12v or 24v 5015 style blower, with two nozzles aimed at the plastic as soon as it exits the extruder. By the way, pulling AT ALL on the molten plastic will thin it, which you don't want. Let gravity coil it on the floor.
QUESTIONS:
How good is your final product? (diameter, brittle, easy to print, etc)
What is the final price for 1kg PLA spool?
Any idea of your ROI?
Can you compete with HobbyKing at 12$ for 1kg PLA spool already made and in any colour (US, shipping and taxes included)?
Thank you for sharing, nice project.
If you watch the other videos about this project you can see I had a lot of problems and really can't print with the filament. Ive been contemplating version 2.0 for a while and will hopefully get a chance to build it soon.
I guess making great filament is a hobby by itself. I can understand that...
Keep going, we are looking at your progress, pitfalls and sucess!
Chears from Québec, Canada
What do you use the filament for?
Hi! Very cool project! How is it now? I dream of getting PET filament from PET bottles. They're everywhere in our city and these bottles usually goes into trash cans. Would be cool to buy a small DIY kit and make a small machine that will be giving that filament... I've seen some project from Italy... probably you've seen that video as well... But it was a fail for not a reasonable price.
I never really got this version to work very well. I've been thinking about trying again for a version 2.