Thank you so much. Always good to hear from a fellow pest controller. I have actually been doing this for 41 years now. Most folks in the business aren't even that old. If there is one thing that I have learned in all that time, it's keep an open mind. Not just for pest control, but for all sorts of other things as well. You have but to look at some of the videos out there to discover that people are always thinking outside the box and coming up with all sorts of inventive ideas that we never thought of. You know, one of the first things I learned in pest control school was that it is impossible to totally eliminate a German cockroach infestation and most pest controllers, that truly do understand the biology, still believe that today. The thing is though that you cannot believe everything you are taught. Turns out that it IS possible. Not easy to be sure, but it can be done. So, if you don't mind just a bit of advice from an old man. I suggest that you question everything and don't blindly accept everything that you are told. Remember, there was a time when folks thought that heavier than air flight was impossible. Then the Wright Brothers came alone. So, always take in the knowledge that is being offered, but always think for yourself too. It will serve you well all your life. Thank you for the comment and for not hating me. A lot of pest controllers don't like that I do this. They think that I am taking business away. The truth is though, that folks who can afford to hire a pro, rarely do it themselves. Most people would prefer not to mess with it. My market is mostly people who cannot afford a pro, but I have been pleasantly surprised that I am also hearing from pest controllers, like you, who do have an open mind and are interested in hearing what I have to say. I find that very humbling and I truly do appreciate the support. Be well my friend. I wish you all the best going forward. Please let me know if I can ever be of any assistance to you. I am always here to help.
I m a pest professional and great video. You won’t get hate mail from me 😊 agreed that most professional wont spray eaves. I personally whenever I go clients home I spray their eaves.
Oh wow! That is so kind of you to say. I thought all the pest controllers were going to hate me. My wife was afraid that we would have haters showing up at the door. She didn't want me to post the video. Good for you that you spray the eves. If you are operating in drywood termite country, then it's almost criminal not to do it. It is very refreshing to hear from a pest controller that actually knows this stuff and isn't afraid to do the job correctly. Thank you so much for your comment and support. It is very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
You're an awesome man!!! You're sharing from your heart with sincere passion. I thank you for your wealth of knowledge and humility and giving spirit. I have a terminite problem here in Gardena Ca but you've given me a wealth of knowledge to put my flag in the sand and fight the cost effective way. Thank you Sir 🙏
Thank you so much for those very kind words. Very much appreciated.
You live in prime drywood termite territory, and it is swarming season right now. You also have other species of termites where you live that are subterranean, but the species I hear about the most there are drywood termites. If you have drywood termites, then that is a situation where I do recommend professional intervention. The only sure way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. So, the first thing I would do is to determine the species. If you are seeing swarmers flying around inside your house right now, then these are probably drywood termites. There are a couple of ways to find out for sure. The easiest way is to call a pest control company and ask for a free inspection. They will let you know the species and give you an estimate for treatment. Always make sure that they list the species in the estimate and make sure that they give you a treatment plan. If they tell you that these are dry wood termites, then the only treatment plan you should be interested in would be fumigation. Some companies will offer to spot treat for a very attractive price, but don't fall for it. Spot treating almost never works. If they tell you that these are subterranean termites, you want to find out if they are Formosan. That would be extraordinarily important information to know. Never sign a contract with the salesperson present. Some of these people can you use high pressure sales tactics, but don't fall for any of it. Just thank them for their time and let them know that you will be getting several estimates. You may want to watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money. The other option you have is to do the inspection yourself. This is really not all that hard to do. Just look for mud tubes, kick out holes, and frass. I have a video on how to identify termite species and I show you in the video what all of this stuff looks like and where to find it. If you are seeing kick out holes and frass, then these are drywood termites. If you are seeing mud tubes, then they are subterranean termites. If they are subterranean, then we need to figure out if they are Formosan, because they get treated differently than other species of subterranean termites. Don't worry about all that though right now. The important thing is to find out if these guys are drywood termites. Given what I know about the area you live in, there is a good chance that this is the case. If you have swarmers, please put a couple of specimens in a jar and hang on to them. You can show them to the pest controller, or you can use them to help you identify the species.
Please get back to me and let me know what you find out. I would be more than happy to stay with you every step of the way to help you get this resolved, and I will help you do this just as cost effectively as possible.
Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: th-cam.com/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions you're awesome!!! I notice the sawdust looking droppings in my garage not alot but there's some. So I think they're just getting started. I will call someone today to come inspect the area. Thanks again Guy!!!
@@briank.patterson5146 You are very welcome. I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I hope you get it resolved as cost effectively as possible. Please feel free to call on me any time. Be well my friend.
Man and I thought I knew what I was doing after a year but ya 30 plus years in the bizz shows love the videos keep em coming us newbie exterminators love em.
Guy's Pest Solutions: I've been watching your videos all morning. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Please assist me, if you read this comment. I found a rotten exterior window sill that is rotten on each end of the board, but not in the middle of the board. I also found a rotten exterior ceiling board (soffit) on the house. Will you make a video or respond in the comments addressing the following issue below? The issue is this: I have been researching all day on pest control. I believe some States restrict the use of selling to consumers without a license because of State laws on pesticides. What can consumers do in order to get pesticides like Termidor SC and Tauras SC if there's "restricted use"? Also, what brand of granules do you recommend for possible termites and carpenter ants? Thanks.
Rotten wood does not necessarily mean termites. It could also be something like dry rot. You need to dig into the wood with a flathead screwdriver to see if there is anything alive in there. If there is, then try to get a specimen with a red head for identification. Domyown.com will ship most products to most states. NY is a big exception. They have banned just about everything. So, you need to go out of state to buy pesticides and bring them back. Some states have just banned certain products and there are substitute products that can be used. If you cannot get fipronil, then you can try a product that uses imidacloprid. I will give you a link to the correct granules for termites and a link to the video on how to use them. Please be sure to read the description because it contains important information. The granules do not work for carpenter ants. I will give you a link to the video on how to treat them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. BioAdvanced Termite Killer 700350A granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to use termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html Video on how to treat carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
Omg!!!! That’s why my building continues having cockroach problems! I’ve had to prep for cockroach treatment a few times last year because they said my neighbours had them, and now I found one in my place! I talked to my building maintenance guy and he said he found a cockroach a couple of weeks ago in the apartment above and adjacent to mine, but “they put out glue traps and didn’t see anything else, so it was fine”. UGH! I’d love to see a video on what to do if you’re a tenant or condo owner in a building where others are not treating their cockroaches. If there are ways to protect ourselves and prevent roaches, just cut our losses, etc. The fogging pushed them into my place. UGH. Im following the methods from your German Cockroach video; I’m even considering drilling into my rental walls to apply boric acid between the studs. Thanks for your knowledge, as always.
Unfortunately, landlords do not appreciate it when tenants drill holes in the walls. Since there are going to be cockroaches breeding in the walls, and since you cannot drill holes in the walls, we know that the cockroaches are going to continue to enter your apartment. Also, since they are breeding in adjoining apartments, they will enter from those apartments as well. That means, it is virtually impossible to totally eliminate a German cockroach infestation from an individual apartment. However, you can greatly reduce the number of cockroaches that you see in your apartment by simply doing the phase two treatment on a continuous basis. That is to say, you do phase one to get that initial knockdown that you want and then you never stop doing phase two. Even though you cannot drill the holes in the wall, you can spray the Nibor-D on virtually every surface in the apartment that will not be damaged by water. I would spray it on all the walls, woodwork, doors, ceiling, tabletops, table legs, countertops that are not being directly used for food preparation, and so forth. I would also spray it on carpeting, under and on sides of furniture, and anywhere else that a cockroach can possibly place its foot. Then, make sure that you puff the boric acid dust into all cracks and crevices, under all baseboards, in and around all outlets and light switches, all pipe penetrations, under major appliances, inside cabinets, etc. In other words, the boric acid should be applied any place where it will not get disturbed by people, pets, or air currents. Anything that you cannot treat with the boric acid should be treated with the Nibor-D, unless it will be damaged by water. Obviously, you cannot get water into electronic equipment and appliances, but you can put some of the Nibor-D on a rag and just wipe it onto these surfaces. Then use a bait and the IGR disks as outlined in the video. If you do all of these things, then any cockroaches that do enter your apartment are going to die within 8 to 14 days. Even if a female drops an egg sack in your apartment, the nymphs that hatch from it will also die within 8 to 14 days, so you will not be able to get an active infestation inside your apartment. So, while you may see an occasional cockroach that comes in from another apartment, particularly when they fog other apartments, any cockroaches that enter are definitely going to die, if you do a thorough job with the boric acid and Nibor-D. Unfortunately, that is the best that you could hope for when it comes to apartment living. It is no different for townhomes and condominiums as well. Thank you so much for your kind words and for watching the videos. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I've been watching TH-cam videos for most of my life and yours are the first that I've ever "liked". This is also my first comment ever lol. Anyway, thank you for the great content.
Hi Guy, thank you very much for those informative video. I need your help. Maybe you have one but I haven't seen it yet. What can I spray or use inside the house to get rid off the flying termites?
Those flying termites you're seeing are what we call reproductives, or swarmers. They are kings and queens that are looking to start a new colony. You cannot simply spray for them inside the house. The first thing you need to do is figure out what species of termites you were looking at, because different species get treated differently. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It is not that difficult to do. Please get back to me after you watch the video and let me know which species you think you have. At that point, I can advise you how to proceed. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your great video! There have many clover mites on my patio and deck. I used dish soap and baking soda but it keeps coming back the next day. How can I get rid of them permanently and prevent them from coming back? Thanks!
The easiest way to get rid of these guys is to treat your yard every 60 to 90 days, this includes the patio and deck. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Also, be sure not to over fertilize your lawn. If you have a lot of clover mites, you may be using too much fertilizer. Before spraying ornamental plants, spray a little on some of the leaves and wait 7 days to see if there is any damage. If not, then you are good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard: th-cam.com/video/wifoTU5dmp0/w-d-xo.html
Question- what bug spray is good & not harmful for a sofa that roaches may have laid eggs in? My husband and I saw your video on the steps of getting rid of German cockroachs. Excellent video and very informative. My neighbor next door and those kids eat all over that house and now those nasty bugs are over here. But we're following your steps and it's working. Thank You!
Thank you so much for those kind words. It sounds like you have a pretty bad infestation, and the truth is, that what I explained in my video is the only way that you can get a handle on them. The trick is to be thorough. You need to make sure that you apply the Nibor-D and/or the boric acid every place a cockroach can possibly place its foot. Couches are a bit of a problem. How you treat a sofa is going to depend on how it is made. You certainly want to turn it over and treat the bottom and the legs with Nibor-D. If you have the back of the couch against a wall, then you should spray the back of the couch as well. If the couch has removable cushions, then take them off and spray Nibor-D under them. You can apply the Nibor-D everywhere accept where will come into direct contact with skin or food. This product will not cause any significant harm if you touch it, but some people find it to be a skin irritant. That's why I tell you not to spray it where you sit. However, if you are not in direct contact with it, then it is perfectly okay. So, it will not do any harm if it's underneath the cushions. Now, here is the thing you need to know about boric acid end Nibor-D. These are not actually pesticides because they do not kill roaches through chemical means and that is why they are not a poison do people. A lot of people do not realize that roaches are actually very clean, and they groom themselves all the time, much like cats do. The boric acid and the Nibor-D we'll get stuck to the roach’s feet when it walks through it and they hate having anything on their feet. So, they lick it off and ingest it. These materials will then cut holes in the roach’s stomach, and they will literally dehydrate to death. That is why roaches cannot become resistant to these materials the same way they do with pesticides. It's a slow kill to be sure, but very effective. The roaches that come out and then come in contact with it will die within a week. The problem is though that the roaches do not need to come out. These guys do not need food and water to survive. They can literally survive by eating each other and so they do not need to come out of their hiding places inside your sofa. There are some things you can do too flush them out though. You can get a can of Shockwave 1 Flushing Killing and Residual Aerosol. I will place a link below for you. This product contains what we call a flushing agent that is an irritant to the cockroaches, and they will immediately start pouring out of the couch as soon as you apply it. That is why you want to make sure that you place the couch in the middle of the room and make sure that the entire floor was sprayed with Nibor-D. This way, when the roaches start coming out, they will have no choice but to cross the Nibor-D and they will die several days later. I don't know how bad your couch is, but I have literally seen hundreds of them come out when a flushing agent like this is used. This product also contains pesticides that have residual properties, and it will go on killing roaches for about three months. So, this may not get rid of all the cockroaches in the couch, but it will probably get rid of over 90 something percent of them, if you do it correctly. The can comes with a very small applicator tip that can fit into just about any crack or crevice. Just turn the couch over and shoot short bursts of the product into any opening that is under the couch. Keep in mind that a little goes a long way and you don't want to use so much that it soaks through to the fabric where people will be touching it. When you are finished treating the bottom, you can turn the couch right side up again and remove the cushions to treat cracks and crevices that are under them. Use the product very sparingly and make sure the applicator tip is inserted fairly deep into the void you are treating. This product is safe after it has dried, but you do not want anybody in the room while you were using it. Also, you should wear protective equipment, like gloves, eye protection, and an N95 respirator. Even though it's safe after it dries, you do not want to be inhaling this stuff and it is a fog. Again, you may see a lot of cockroaches coming out of the couch after you apply this flushing agent, so be ready for it. Most people find this quite disturbing the first time they do it. If you have all your protective equipment on, and nobody else is in the room, then go ahead and spray this stuff on the roaches that are running away. You won't get them all, but you are going to hit many of them. The ones that you do not hit will cross the Nibor-D that you applied on the floor. Now, this is not going to kill the eggs, but this product has a residual that lasts for about 90 days and so those eggs should hatch within that period of time and the nymphs will most likely have to cross this pesticide. Also, any of them that come out will have no choice put the cross the Nibor-D that you applied on the sofa and the floor. As an added measure, I also recommend that you bait the bottom of the couch when you are all finished treating it and place a Gentrol IGR disc under the couch. Never spray on top of a bait or the cockroaches will not eat it. Always apply the bait last.
You mentioned neighbors, so keep in mind that if you live in an apartment and cannot drill the walls, then cockroaches will always be entering your apartment from adjoining apartments. There is nothing you can do to stop this, but if you puff boric acid under all the baseboards and then treat all the baseboards with Nibor-D, and you apply the boric acid and Nibor-D into all the pipe penetrations and every other places that are depicted in my video, then the cockroaches that enter your apartment will have no choice but to cross this material and they will die within a few days, before they can reproduce. So, if you do a really thorough job, then you may never see another cockroach again. That is because German cockroaches are really very shy, and they will quickly seek a hiding place when they enter your apartment and that is where they will die. It actually doesn't matter how filthy your neighbors might happen to be, if you do a thorough job, then cockroaches simply will not be able to survive in your apartment. It's pretty much that simple.
I hope that helps. Be well Stephanie.
Shockwave 1 Flushing Killing and Residual Aerosol: www.domyown.com/shockwave-flushing-killing-and-residual-aerosol-p-20792.html
@GuysPestSolutions wow thank you for such amazing information!!! I became your follower just a few days ago and I'm really studying all your videos. Ready to spray my entire apartment with Nibor-d, cleaning it thoroughly and also dust on certain areas with boric acid. Then, cherry on top do some bait dots. I hope this helps. I'm not severely infested but I'm seeing a few during DAY TIME so I took action. Wish me luck!
Thank you so much for the detailed videos. They are very helpful. I'm a new homeowner, and i think within a month I started to notice voles in my lawn. Could you please suggest how can I get exterminate voles from my lawn.
If you get this, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I did respond to this question, but it looks like TH-cam deleted it. They do that sometimes and I don’t know why. So sorry. Just copy your original comment and past it into the email. Also, please give me your TH-cam name. Be well my friend.
@@sutharshani Okay. Thanks. I think I did respond to it. It was probably the first email you sent. You are the only one asking about voles. I get about 60 emails a day right now and 80% are termites, so I would remember voles. Lol. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your valuable advice. I have been able to use rat traps with great success. I have already trapped 4 voles on 4 consecutive days. So far I was able to get one active hole where I am seeing great success. I am placing another trap different places after couple of days and not seeing an activity over there. But I think there were two adults and 2 small voles I was able to trap them in 4 days. I will let you know how it goes but trick is working well so far. I am using peanut butter as bait to lure them to traps. Thanks again @Guy for what you doing to help us with understanding how thing works well when done right. DIY is better approach if done right way and get right advice. Thank you..thank you so much.
Thank you for giving us ton of info.. I bought an old house and wanted to spray inside my house(dont have any termites/roach problem though).. do you recommend any product to spray inside house? I heard most of these sprays leaves some white marks and i dont want that to happen inside house
Here's the thing about the vast majority of bugs… They do not get into your house because they were placed there by the hand with God and they weren't beamed in by Scotty on the Enterprise. They got in from the outside of your house. So, if you want a pest free house, the best way to do it is to treat from the outside. If the bugs have to cross a pesticide barrier in order to get in, then they will die before they can become a nuisance. If you treat the outside of the house, the only pest you will have inside the house are the ones that you either bring in with you or that fly in, like moths or flies. Any bug that cannot fly will not be able to survive the pesticide barrier. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it a proper exterior treatment. In the video I recommend two products, but I wasn't exactly clear on the best way to use them, so let me clear that up. You should do an initial treatment with Taurus SC, then all follow up treatments should be done with Talstar P. If you want to save some money, then you can use Bifen IT instead of Talstar P. It's the same product, except it's a bit cheaper and it has a slight odor to it. Also, the sprayers that I recommend in the video I no longer available, so I will give you a link to a sprayer that will serve you very well. Please let me know if you have a specific pest inside the house and I will tell you how to treat for it. Different pests that are already in the house must be treated differently. It is not a good idea to just start spraying pesticides around. That can make some problems even worse, so you need to treat correctly for the target pest in question. Please let me know if Solutions Pest and Lawn will not ship to your state and I will give you another supplier. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: th-cam.com/video/3ESGJsn3MLk/w-d-xo.html Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide Taurus SC: www.solutionsstores.com/taurus-sc-termiticide Sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3MKYWD/?coliid=I1WHD5A3RF25H9&colid=3VDXA5DFBKQ98&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Liked and subscribed! One thing you may have missed is frequency of service. Would a pest control company rather sign you up for $60 a month or $95 bimonthly? They recommend bimonthly to give you impression they are saving you money. But if they can sign up all their customers for bimonthly then they are making $95 a pop rather than $60. But what is best interest of customer? Do the outside sprays really last two months with the sun and/or rain?
Pest control treatment plans vary greatly from company to company and also by where you live. Prices also vary depending upon the specific treatment that is being done. If you are talking about exterior pest control, then it is unusual to find a pest control company that will treat every month. They may bill you every month, but most of the time they are only going to treat once every 90 days. We know that, in certain areas of the country, treating every 90 days is not enough . So, you may find a company that will treat every 60 days. Naturally, you are going to pay more if they treat every 60 days then if they treat every 90 days. People are telling me that prices are all over the place with this today. If you find a company that treats every 90 days, but they charge $60 a month, that is actually pretty cheap today. That means they are coming out for $180 per treatment. I have seen that as high as $300. If you find a company that will treat every 60 days for $95, then they are giving you the service. Buyer beware though. Most of the time, you get what you pay for. You always need to ask exactly what you are getting with each treatment. If you are getting a treatment for $95, then most likely all they are going to do is just treat around the foundation of the house, and maybe around the windows and doors. It is highly unlikely that it will include a lawn treatment. These are the folks that will be in and out in about 20 minutes. This type of treatment will help to keep the bugs out of your house, but what you really want is the lawn to be treated as well. Also, most pest control companies will not treat the eaves, because they do not want to spray pesticides above their heads. So, if you live in an area where drywood termites or a problem, then this treatment will do nothing to prevent them. So, you simply can't go by price alone. If you're hiring a pest control company, you need to ask a lot of questions. You also want to know what products they will be applying and exactly where they will be applying them. Most pesticides will last up to 90 days in the sun and rain, but the last 30 days will not be as effective as the first 30 days. So, I treat every 60 days. Some pesticides only last 30 days, so it's important to know what products are being applied and in what concentration. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I had cockroaches really bad outside my house a few years ago. I only saw one inside. I used diotonaciuos earth which helped a bit. Then a family of garter snakes moved in under my patio slab. Poof! No more cockroaches. The snakes left shortly after that. Have hardly seen a roach in years now. The only time the snakes bothered me was when they surprised me hiding under a pot.
Nothing like natural pest control. I don't like snakes much though. Not even the safe ones. So, I treated the entire yard to get rid of all the bugs and the snakes move to greener pastures. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your many informative videos. After some rain intrusion, I opened my wall and want to treat for mold, but also for termites. Can I use Bora Care Mold as well as Bora-Care (PRO-BORACAE4x1)? And if so, which should I apply first? I also plan to apply BioAdvanced Termite Killer to the soil outside.
You don't need to use both products. If you apply Bora-Care with Mold Care that will prevent the termites and mold at the same time. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider another option. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. Let me know if you have an active infestation of termites and I will guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for your reply. Since I sent my first message, I decided instead to go with Taurus SC trench method. As for the interior wall, I do think I have an active infestation, thus my question about applying both the Bora-Care Mold as well as the Bora-Care Termiticide. I am anxious to get the walls drywalled by up, so I can get the kids back in the room, but I think I read I should trench outside first. If so, how long should I wait to apply the Bora-Care to the studs?
@@CarlosLopez-qy3hc If you have the walls open, then I would use the Bora-Care with Mold Care first before trenching. The reasons for that is because it is way faster to do, it goes to work immediately to treat the infestation, and it allows you to get the room back in service sooner. So, if it were me, I would treat the walls right now. After the walls are treated, I would start trenching on the outside wall that is closest to the infestation. After that, I would go ahead and trench the rest of the house. Please watch my video on how to trench properly. I will give you the link. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench properly: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html
We just found termites in our mulch in the flower bed yesterday. They are also in the ground. It’s in front of our house and we removed every bit of the mulch and took to the pasture into the burn pile. Haven’t burned because it’s still raining. Did we mess up by digging out all of the mulch? I ordered the pesticide you recommended even though I called our pest control company first thing this morning. I don’t trust them to take care of this issue correctly or even if they will show up before June or July. What should we do before mulching again? Treat mulch before putting it down? I’m panicking because I do not want termites in my house. No tunnels and we are on a concrete slab and can see every bit of our concrete.
Finding termites in or near your house is a very scary thing. So, it is only natural to have a little bit of a knee jerk reaction when you see that sort of thing. The truth is I would have preferred for you to leave the mulch in place because we could have used it to poison the termites, and it is always best to let them go on eating something other than your house. You see, you have subterranean termites, and these guys are not living in your mulch. They are living in the ground someplace within a 300 foot radius of that mulch. Since you took away their food supply, they are going to look for another one, which could be your house. Do not beat yourself up about it though, because it's the sort of thing that I think most people would do, because they do not understand have termites work. The good news is that you are not seeing any mud tubes around the house, and now you know that they are in the area, so you can protect yourself. So let's talk about that. I am happy to hear that you have not burned the mulch yet. I recommend that you go check that mulch to see if the termites are still there and if they are still alive. If they are still there and seem to be alive and well, then you can use that mulch against them. It is possible that they found their way back to the colony, so you may be able to poison them with that mulch. I think the best way to do that would be to buy Taurus SC and mix it at 0.8 ounces per gallon of water, in a pump up the garden sprayer or even a watering can. Then just soak that mulch with it. You may want to rake the mulch around a bit as you are soaking it, so that you get as much of the mulch treated as possible. If at all possible, you want to treat it all the way down to the dirt below. After you do that, just leave them alone for the next 12 to 16 weeks. Taurus SC this is a slow kill pesticide that will give them enough time to bring the contaminated food back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If these guys found their way back to the colony, which is certainly a big if, then just poisoning the mulch may take out the entire colony. Since we cannot hang our hat on that being the case, you also need to protect the house.
There are two options for treating or preventing subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. After you use one of these methods, you may want to consider installing monitoring stations around the house. This is not necessary, but it is very easy to do, and you will know immediately if you have termites in the area. If one of the stations goes off, then you can treat the termites right at the station, before they try to attack your house. This way, you are protected by either the granules or the trenching, and you have the peace of mind knowing that there are no termites in the area. You can make these stations yourself out of used water bottles for about 50 cents each. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. These stations have a little orange dot on the top of them. When the dock disappears you either have termites or the station has malfunctioned. Either way, you can check to see if there are active termites, and if there are, then you can treat them right there. Now, let's face it, we are making these things out of used water bottles, so it is possible that one of orange indicators can move to the side and disappear, even though there are no termites. That's not really a big deal though because these things are very fast and easy to make and install. So, just keep a few on hand should you need to replace one. After they are installed, just walk around the house every couple of months to see if there are orange dots missing. It couldn't be easier. After you replace the mulch, it wouldn't hurt to treat it with the granules every year as a preventive measure. So, you can relax. You can fix this whole thing for less than $150 if you trench and less than $100 if you use the granules, and that includes the monitoring stations. The best part is that is way easier than all the work you already did removing the mulch. I hope that helps. Be well Kathy.
Video on how to apply termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html Video and how to make termite monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for all the info!! I had watched the water bottle video last night and already told my husband that we are doing that too. I have the liquid for trenching and the granules already ordered. Did that yesterday as I watched your videos. Again ~ thanks so much!
My Taurus SC looks to be delayed in shipping but supposed to get my granules tomorrow. Since I know we have active termites in the dirt ~ what should I do first?
@@Southern195 If you are going to treat around the house with the granules instead of trenching, then you can go ahead and do that. Just use the granules the way you were planning, and then use the Taurus SC in the other areas when it arrives. You can also use the granules to treat the area were you removed the mulch before you replace the mulch. Be well Kathy.
I live in Phoenix, AZ, next to a mountain where the earth around my home is clay and caliche (rock). the local DIY pest control store said to dig a trench 4-8" below the surface to pour the Taurus SC. The clay is so hard I was having a hard time digging in soil I buried irrigation years ago. It's going to take me a lot of time to dig a trench so your method of granules sounds great but I don't think it'll sink into the earth too far if I go that route. I think it'll all be run off next time it rains (not that often, but still). Also, I'm doing this as a preventative treatment as I saw some termites outside of my house underneath some termites that were underneath a cardboard box about 10" next to my house. They have since unfortunately scattered ( I was hoping to get them to eat the Taurus SC while I knew where they were) and I dug a 4" or so trench in the area and put Taurus SC. When you speak of Taurus SC not working for Formosan termites, do you mean if you already have an infestation, not as a preventative or will it still not work with Formosan termites because they don't die until much later after walking on the Taurus SC? Lastly, since it will take me months to dig a trench, should I spray some Taurus SC on the ground/house for now or just keep looking for tubes in the meantime? thx so much!
It appears that you have a somewhat difficult situation to treat. The termite granules are not going to work in your case. For the termite granules to work the soil needs to be porous enough to allow water to leach into it. That does not seem to be the case here. Taurus SC does work for Formosan termites, but it must be applied in a trench. That is the case for all species of subterranean termites. If digging a trench is not an option for you, then we need to get a bit more creative. It sounds like you do have termites in the area, but it is unclear if you have them in the house already. Either way, I think we need to go after those termites. First though, I would like you to inspect the house for termites. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. My recommendations are going to be different if you have an existing infestation in the home. Treating this yourself is going to require some unconventional methods. These are not the sorts of things that I want people to do on a routine basis, so I would prefer not to make those suggestions where the entire world can see them. What I am going to suggest is going to be perfectly safe, but it falls in the category of throwing a Hail Mary Pass. I have had a lot of success doing this sort of thing in cases like yours, but this should not be the first line of defense for people who do have the option of using the granules or trenching. Therefore, I would like you to send me an email, and I will provide as much assistance as possible. Please write "Case number 090720241" in the subject line. I am creating a file on you, so that you do not need to explain everything to me all over again. I hope that helps. Be well Kim. Video on how to inspect for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
@@kimromen1304 Sorry. My email is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. It is in the description of all my videos. I usually include it with my responses, but I was just going too fast. Totally my fault. Be well Kim.
@@GuysPestSolutions You're such a nice person. No worries. I looked in the description but mustn't have looked well enough. I'll email you right now. I was just thinking I could dig a ditch easier if I used high pressure water. It'd still be a somewhat long process as I'd have to wait for the h20 to soak up before digging any more but I've used that process to dig holes for trees with success. I'll email you nonetheless. There will be many tricky areas in my yard. thx!
I've just sprayed into the holes drilled into the cement blocks in the crawlspace with Surrender Brand termite killer which contains Bifenthrin. This is for prevention.. I haven't dug a trench along the slab for garage yet. So tell me did I waste my time using this product. If so I can redo with Tarus SC. I did have to have wood replaced in the garage wall last yr due to termite damage. Thank you for your direction and I so appreciate your videos 3:56
I'm sorry for the delay. I had to be away for the last 3 days and I was not able to answer any questions. You did not waste your time, but using Taurus SC would have been a much better way to go. That's fine though because treating the cement blocks is not a very effective way to prevent or treat termites anyway. Please tell me where you live because location matters because species matters and they vary from place to place. Most of the time we need to treat the ground, but oftentimes we can do it for about $50 and an hours work. It's very easy. First though, let's make sure that we rule out anything that may be more problematic. Since I have been gone for 3 days, my questions are really backed up, so please allow a couple of days for me to catch up. I have about 300 unanswered questions right now and I am working through them as fast as possible. I will get back to you for sure after you tell me where you tell me where you live. I promise. Be well my friend.
You would not believe how much trouble I got into by making the statement 'only female mosquito's bite' I was teaching at a trade school, one of the students was complaining about 'mozzy's' and I was talking to him about it. a feminist in the class really didn't like knowing the truth and complained to managers. OK, it was a motorcycle school but in Florida there are so many lakes and ponds mosquito's are a nuisance and can transmit disease. (we have a small lake across street from house, maybe 200 yards across) I guess we don't have termites because the carpenter ants eat them. Local power company sends out 'tree trimmers' to keep stuff away from power lines but the guys a. don't speak English ( I know because many times over last 20 years I have tried to ask if they were qualified) b. are not qualified arborist's and just kill off well established trees (which is how carpenter ants took over next to my garden shed,and then on/in the shed
Hey, the truth is the truth. Only female mosquitoes bite. You can greatly reduce the population if you watch my video on the subject. I will give you a link. Be well my friend. th-cam.com/video/DIoCHo96LJc/w-d-xo.html
Sure anyone can spray pesticides ,however you absolutely have to know what your doing. Contrary to what people might think, you cant just spray a little spray and except to solve problems..
That is true. Most people fail because they do not apply products correctly. This is why I take a lot of time in my videos to show folks exactly how to do things right. A lot of folks just want to watch a five-minute video and then think they can take care of a problem themselves. I cannot provide 40 years of training and experience in five minutes. My videos are just for those who want to take the time to learn how to do it right and get the same or better results than the pros. Also, you should know that I am not anti-pro. I am all for folks hiring a pro if they can afford it. It's the same for fixing your car, mowing your lawn, cleaning your house, fixing your plumbing, and so forth. Why bother with it if you can afford to hire a pro? However, not everybody has the money these days, so there are those who have no choice but to do it themselves. Those are primarily the folks are want for my audience. I was not expecting it, but I am now getting more and more pest controllers coming to me for advice as well. I am getting a lot of interest from the pros about how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. You can make a fortune if you learn how to do it right. Once you have the treatment system down, you can literally just do German roaches and you won't be able to keep up with the work. Not homes so much. Mostly businesses like restaurants and motels, but you can also land a hospital as well. If you really do totally eliminate a German cockroach infestation in a restaurant, word will get around and folks will beat a path to your door. If you want tips on how to handle business accounts, just let me know. Be well my friend.
It is not going to kill the lizards or frogs, but they still may go away. If you treat your yard, then you are disrupting the food chain. Lizards and frogs eat bugs. No bugs, no food. So, the lizards and frogs may go elsewhere in search of food. Since snakes eat lizards and frogs, you may see less of them as well. You know... The whole circle of life sort of thing. I live in Florida and I see a lot less lizards and frogs now. I used to see a lot of snakes, but I have not seen one now for a couple of years. Of course, I also don't see any American roaches, mosquitoes, spiders, wasps, and a whole bunch of other pests as well. So, I guess that's just kind of how it works. I hope that answers your question. Be well Gina.
Hi Guy. Great videos. I’ve been watching the termite ones. Great info.. Thank you. I live in NC at the SC/NC boarder. Is there a “season” for termites? The reason I ask is that we’ve had mud tubes as well as “saw dust” evidence. We’ve had a popular pest control company come out and they put bait stakes around the exterior and they said they’re preventative. They’ve been in for 5-6 months and was just wondering if you think they’re working or if we haven’t arrived to another “season” yet. Thanks
Let me just venture a guess here. The termite company most likely sold you a Sentricon system. This is essentially a baiting system, and it works pretty well for subterranean termites. The only real problem with it is that it is very expensive. Customers like it because there is a very low-cost up-front payment. The problem is though that you must make monthly or annual payments that literally go on forever. If you cancel the contract, then the bait stations come out, because you don't own them. You are just kind of renting them. So, over time, this system ends up costing you a lot more than if you would have just trenched the house. To add insult to injury, there was a 95% chance that you could have just treated this with termite granules for about $50, and that wouldn't require any trenching or baiting stations at all. You probably signed a contract for one to two years. My recommendation would be to cancel the contract at the earliest possible time, and then simply apply the granules annually. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. If you would like to know if the baiting system worked, then just break open the mud tubes and have a look inside. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube and look to see if there is any activity. If you do not see any termites in any of the mud tubes, then the infestation is probably dead. Just to be sure, check those mud tubes again in a few days to see if they were rebuilt. If that 2-inch section was rebuilt, then you still have an infestation. If this is the case, you should call the termite company and tell them that they have not fixed the problem. If they want additional money from you, then I would not pay it, unless you are bound by the contract. They may tell you that the bait stations didn't work, and they now need to trench. If it were me, I would want all my money back, and I would send them packing. Of course, you need to read the contract because they will sometimes have language in there stating that the baiting system may not work, and you need to pay additional money if that should occur. So, regardless of whether you have termites or not, I recommend that you read that contract, and bail out just as soon as possible. I promise that you do not need them to deal with this problem.
Something else that you said does concern me just a little bit. You indicated that you are seeing sawdust. Most likely that was from the subterranean termites, but most of the time you don't see that sort of thing out in the open with them. Therefore, due diligence requires me to ask another couple of questions. You indicated that you live on the border of North Carolina and South Carolina, but I need to know how close to the coast you are. If you wouldn't mind, it would be helpful to know the city or town that you live in. There are places in North Carolina where there are a couple of different species that behave differently than the ones you are being treated for. Most likely, the pest control company got it right, and this is nothing to worry about. Still, I have seen them screw it up more than I would like to say. My other question is, where are you seeing this sawdust? Are you seeing it out in the open? Also, is this sawdust spread around or is it a pile that is wider on the bottom than it is on the top? Is this sawdust more like a very fine powder, or does it look more like little pellets? I would also like to know if you are seeing any fairly large ants. Look near the walls where you are seeing the sawdust to see if you can find any dead ones. Hopefully, you're not seeing any of those guys. This is probably nothing, but I would be a really terrible pest controller if I didn't ask these questions.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat subterranean termites with granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for all of that info. I live in charlotte, about southern center of the state. The dust i saw was exterior and interior. Looked more like granules than pellets, it is a pile with a wide base, rather than spread around. I have seen big ants. Kind of orange/light red. Thank you again. And i’m kind of afraid of what you’re about to tell me about the ants
@@marcedwards7110 Please keep in mind that I am not actually there to inspect, but just based on what you are telling me, I think there is a very high probability that you have carpenter ants. I'll bet that's what you were afraid I was going to say. This is not all that unusual if you have termites. Carpenter ants like to feed on termites. Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood. They just kind of tunnel through it, and that leaves that sawdust material behind. Carpenter ants are also kind of lazy. That is why, most of the time, they will establish their colonies in soft, wet wood because it is very easy for them to excavate. The really neat thing about termites for them, is not only are they a tasty food source, but they have already done most of the excavation for the carpenter ants. It's a pretty nice deal for the carpenter ants. Instead of paying the workers who build your house, you just eat them instead.
Even though carpenter ants do not eat wood, they do tunnel through it, and they are capable of doing quite a bit of damage. Therefore, you need to send these guys packing. Actually, they are pretty much all women, but that's a whole other story. What you need to know about them though is that the main colony is most likely located outside of the house somewhere. Probably in a dead tree stump or something like that. The chances are that you have a satellite colony in your house. You may even have more than one. So, you need to treat for them. Unfortunately, the treatment for carpenter ants is much different than the treatment for termites. That is why the termite treatment did not affect the carpenter ants. Since you most likely have at least one satellite colony in the house and the main colony is outside somewhere, then you have to take a two-pronged approach. Not only do you need to treat the inside of the house to kill off those satellite colonies, but you also need to do preventive treatments on the outside of your house to stop new ants from coming in. I have a video on how to do this and I will place a link below for you. Now, if you would like to hear some special tips and tricks, known only to a select few pest controllers, then send me an e-mail. My address is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I get a lot of e-mail, so please remind me who you are when you write, and remind me that the issue was carpenter ants, and that you already treated for termites, using the Sentricon system. It's interesting that just about 99% of the people who write to me are seeking help with either termites or German cockroaches. I receive so much mail about termites that it's hard to keep everybody straight sometimes. Knock on wood. So far at least, I have not gotten anybody mixed up, but I can definitely see me doing that. Lol.
I hope that helps. He will my friend.
Video on how to treat for carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
Guy, Which of your videos is most relevant for dealing with carpet beetles? (found one or two, and didnt find any damage , so not a major problem... yet... but would love to make a preemptive strike!)
It is the larvae that does the damage, so you may see the problem emerge soon. Unfortunately, I do not have a video for carpet beetles. However, Solutions Pest and Lawn has a very good one, so there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel. Just follow their recommendations and that will end the infestation inside. Keep in mind that these guys are getting in from the outside, so I also recommend an exterior treatment every 90 days. The fastest and easiest way to do that is to watch my video on treating your yard with a hose end sprayer. In addition to treating your yard, shoot some of the Bifen XTS around windows, doors, and any penetrations that may exist on the exterior of the house. I also shoot it on the fascia boards and soffits as well to stop a variety of other pests. The hose end sprayer shoots a lot of pesticide, so you can also treat the house with a garden sprayer. It takes a lot longer, but it saves a lot of pesticide and is more consistent with label directions. If you do the outside treatment every 90 days, then you should not get reinfested. I hope that helps. Solutions Pest & Lawn Video: th-cam.com/video/JBnhW3G_RtQ/w-d-xo.html Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: th-cam.com/video/wifoTU5dmp0/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions I actually just treated my exterior using the method I learned from you for subterranean termites.. I used the stuff you provided in the link. Will that work for the carpet beetles too?
@@baruchschwartz819 Are you talking about the termite granules? If so, that will not work for carpet beetles. You need to use something like Bifen XTS. Termites work differently. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Colony collapse disorder is actually decreasing and has been for years (bee population not decreasing) It was linked to agricultural usage of neonicotinoids, a class of chems which weren't in common use by exterminators. Also, sick and poisoned bees self quarantine.
You are correct. You will find most of the bees in farming and the farmers used neonicotinoids. We do use them in treating homes, but mostly for termite control and the material is buried and used around the perimeter of the house, where there are no bees. So, yeah, homeowners are not killing bees with pesticides. At least, not enough to make a difference. Still, it's a great excuse to ban homeowners from buying pesticides. Thanks for the comment. Be well my friend.
hello Guy, can you do a video or just tell us how to get rid of chiggers in a yard? They love me for some reason. Thanks, you are doing a great service.
I will put chiggers on my list of videos to do. Meanwhile, here is how you do it. To treat for chiggers, all you need to do is a basic lawn treatment. What I would do is use a basic garden hose sprayer to apply by Bifen IT. I will provide you with a link for the sprayer that I use and the Bifen IT. It is important to dilute the Bifen IT. Put 8 oz of Bifen IT in the sprayer and then fill to the 32 oz mark with water. Mix it periodically as you add the water by swirling it around. Set the sprayer to 4 oz per gallon. The label says to mix it 1 oz per gallon, but that is before you diluted it. Since you cut it with water in the sprayer, you need to apply it at 4 oz per gallon. Make sure that the siphon hose is securely set into the sprayer because you don't want to be spraying plain water. I cannot tell you how many times I have done that. Anyway, just attach the sprayer to a common garden hose and spray your entire yard with it. I mean everything. Start from the sides of your house and treat all the way to the property lines around your entire property. Be sure to treat all ornamental plants. Chiggers usually do not enter homes, but it can happen. To prevent this, simply spray up the about two feet around the entire house and also spray around all windows, doors, and pipe penetrations as well. The Bifen IT can last up to 90 days, but just go ahead and retreat when you start to notice the problem happening again. Always wear protective equipment like gloves and goggles and take a shower after you are finished. Pro tips: Purchase 100 feet of those super hoses you see on TV all the time. They make it super-fast and easy. I will give you a link for one. Also, put a quick connect fitting on the sprayer and the hose. This makes it super-fast to take off the sprayer to refill it. The hose I am suggesting has a shut-off valve on it, but if you use a different hose, then buy a shut off valve for the end of the hose. Do not store the hose outside because they break down easily in sunlight. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bifen IT Insecticide: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide Amazon.com: www.amazon.com/Chapin-International-G499-Adjustable-Sprayer/dp/B00UER1S64/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3EPZLI8DS37VB&keywords=RE+Chapin+MFG+Works+G499+Adjustable+Rate+Dial+Hose+End+Sprayer%2C+32+OZ+%3A+Patio%2C+Lawn+%26+Garden&qid=1657319512&sprefix=re+chapin+mfg+works+g499+adjustable+rate+dial+hose+end+sprayer%2C+32+oz+patio%2C+lawn+%26+garden%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-2 Expandable Garden Hose 100FT: www.amazon.com/Knoikos-Expandable-Garden-Hose-100ft/dp/B082TX2R46/ref=sr_1_1?crid=M2VD2JRHOL1Z&keywords=Expandable+Garden+Hose+100FT+-+Upgraded+Water+Hose+Self-Locking+Leakproof+With+10+Function+Spray+Nozzle+and+Durable+3-Layers+Latex%2C+3%2F4%22+Solid+Brass%2C+Kink-Free+Hose+for+Watering+and+Washing+%3A+Patio%2C+Lawn+%26+Garden&qid=1657319576&sprefix=expandable+garden+hose+100ft+-+upgraded+water+hose+self-locking+leakproof+with+10+function+spray+nozzle+and+durable+3-layers+latex%2C+3%2F4+solid+brass%2C+kink-free+hose+for+watering+and+washing+patio%2C+lawn+%26+garden%2Caps%2C290&sr=8-1 Quick Release Fittings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9VG39H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Shut-off Valve: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZYGVFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Okay. I am running a bit behind. My wife made me take a day off and I am getting flooded with questions. It's 11:40 pm and I do need to get some sleep. I promise that I will get your questions answered in full tomorrow sometime. My wife wants me to take tomorrow off too, but I will find the time. Your question is important to me and I will not forget about you. Let me know if you don't hear from me tomorrow. That means I am either dead or I didn't get your email. That does happen sometimes. I mean not getting the email. Hopefully not the dead part. Lol. Be well my friend.
I took a look first thing this morning and I either did not receive the email or I answered it and did not know it was you. Did you send the question to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com? If you did not receive an answer, then please send it again and check to be sure you entered the address correctly. Also, please make sure that I know you are GasMan75. You can't imagine how many emails I receive every day. I sometimes have a hard time keeping it straight who is who because the questions are often very similar and I get a lot of them. I definitely want to make sure that I get your questions answered in a timely manner. Be well my friend.
I'm in New Orleans. My dad's shed, now mine has bad termite damage. I just found a nest, the thick table leg that was against the wall. Even the 4x6's are soft, on the ceiling. No sheet rock, all 2x4's or 4×6's. Will the termites die if they are already up 8' up the wall?? I have been spraying when I see them. Thanks for the information. I will do that soon. So easy and so cheap!!! Thanks
You may be looking at Formosan termites. I recommend that you watch my video on how to identify termite species. It's not that hard to do. If these are Formosan termites, then you need to watch my video on how to eliminate Formosan termites. These guys are very destructive and they get treated somewhat differently than other termites. Also, if they are in the sheds, then they may be in your houses as well. You should do a thorough inspection of your homes for mud tubes. Look around the perimeter of the house, under the house if you have a crawlspace, in the eaves, and in the attic. Do not attempt to treat termites with pesticides from the big box stores. These products will most likely make the problem worse. You may think that you killed the termites, but all you did was make them move to a new area of the shed or move to your house. You will not kill the colony this way, so they will just move to a new food source. I hope that helps. Be well Bonnie. Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html Video on how to eliminate Formosan termites: th-cam.com/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/w-d-xo.html
Mr. Guy, I do not have roaches anymore but I found myself ENJOYING this!? Perhaps I’m weird lol but it was great fun fighting German Roaches. I haven’t gone into phase 2 yet (I watched that full video) but my friends are coming this weekend to work on the walls with the specific chemical you recommend for that (Using discretion as to not undermine the work you did on that video) how do I start doing g this professionally in VA?! It’s a blast!!
If you want to become a pest controller, there is a fortune to be made in German roaches because nobody knows how to do this. It's crazy, but true. To get into the business you need a license. Each state has its own requirements. Here in Florida, you must work for a licensed pest controller for at least 2 years and then take a test. In some states it's only one year, and I'll bet that some states just want you to take a test. You need to look up the requirements for your state. I think states are getting stricter on it because so many pest controllers are incompetent. You would not believe the number of complaints I get every year about pest controllers that screw up. So, more and more they want you to gain some experience before going out on your own. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thank you so much. That is so thoughtful of you. I will definitely use it to make more videos. Never expected or required, but always very much appreciated. You are the best. Be well Sam.
Hi Guy! My wife and I just bought a single-story, brick, 1,200 sqft home built in 2014 in Charlotte, North Carolina. I’ve seen one dead cockroach in the crawlspace (it’s encapsulated), one big one (German) in the kitchen floor (I killed it), and one small one coming from behind the TV hung on the living room wall at night. All within the past week. Prior to that, I saw 3 carpenter ants (two in kitchen, one in bathroom) over a span of 2 weeks, but then, we got a dehumidifier for the crawl space and I haven’t seen any more carpenter ants. Question for you. I am debating whether to hire “Carolina Pest Control Services”, doing it myself through a company called “Pestie”, or trying to apply all the DIY methods I see on TH-cam and doing it all myself. What would you recommend I do? Also, have you heard of that company called “Pestie”? They send you your pest control liquids based on your Zip Code. Last question, do you think I have a cockroach infestation?
I am so sorry that you are having these issues. Let me see if I can be of assistance. I am very familiar with Pestie. While they do send you legitimate pesticides, they generally do not send you anywhere near enough to get the job done, and most of the time, they're telling you to apply these materials in a manner that will not achieve the results you need. If that isn't bad enough, they overcharge you for the products as well. So, my recommendation would be to stay away from them. Carpenter ants like wet wood and so the dehumidifier may have helped the situation somewhat, but if you already have an infestation, that is not going to get rid of it. In most cases, carpenter ants inside your home are a satellite colony and the main colony is outside someplace. These things do not eat wood the way termites do. They just tunnel through it. Still, they can do plenty of damage and you need to get rid of them. Please watch my video to find how to treat for carpenter ants. I will place a link below. This is something you can do yourself for a lot less money and the pros are going to charge. Since the main column is located outside, then the only way to keep them out, after you kill off the satellite colony, is to do an exterior treatment of the house every three months. Pest controllers can soak you as much as $85 a month for this service, but you can do it for under $10 a month, and the treatment you do will be far superior. Now, let's talk about the cockroaches. The first thing you want to do is make sure that these are actually German cockroaches. If they are, then you have a very serious problem, and I can tell you, without a shadow of a doubt, that there are no press control companies that know how to get rid of them. I know that sounds hard to believe, but it's the absolute truth. The only thing that they will do is to control the population, so that you don't notice them as much. That means they're going to want to return to do follow-up treatments that will be as often as every week to every month, depending upon how badly they want to rip you off. The follow-up treatments will literally never end. However, I do know a way that will allow you to treat this yourself and totally eliminate the problem. It is not easy, but it can be done. Before you take up this challenge though, you need to be absolutely certain that you do have German cockroaches. Virtually all other species of cockroaches far easier to treat. Please watch the beginning of my German cockroach video. This is a long video, but just skip to about 23 minutes into the video and I explain how to identify and inspect for German roaches. If you have them, then this is the only video on the Internet that will show you how to totally eliminate them. I know it's a long video, but you need to watch the entire thing if you wish to get rid of those roaches. In fact, you should watch it several times because you must do this exactly right or it will fail. If it turns out that these are not German roaches, then please get back to me and I will help you identify correct species, and I will show you how to get rid of them. It would be wonderful if you could catch one alive and put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. This will make identification much easier. The bottom line is that these are issues that you can take care of yourself for a fraction of the cost that a professional is going to charge, and they don't even know how to deal with German cockroaches. Pestie has a great pitch and wonderful advertising, but they are a total waste of money. I can show you how to do everything for fraction of the cost and it will be far more effective than Pestie or even the professionals. All my advice is free, and I will show you where to buy the right pesticides for the lowest price in the industry. I do not accept compensation from any of the pesticide manufacturers or sellers. I only recommend products that I know are effective and I only recommend suppliers to have the lowest price and ship for free. If you are wondering why I do it, you are not alone. I get that question from my wife all the time. All I can tell you is that it's not about money with me. The reward is in the simple act of showing a kindness to someone else. I guess it's kind of the same reason why people volunteer to work for charities. Life has been very good to me over the years, and I think it's time for me to give something back. It's pretty much just that simple. I hope you found this information helpful. Please feel free to ask all the questions you like. I am always here to help. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat for carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html Video on Germany cockroaches: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
So what is your take on Talstar P I’ve heard quite a bit however it’s worth every dime and lasts a loonnggg time especially if doing it for exterior home border!
Talstar P is a wonderful product. However, you can also buy Bifen IT instead. It's the exact same thing, except the Bifen has a slight odor to it, while the Talstar is odorless. The Bifen is a bit less expensive than the Talstar P. Since the Bifen has a slight odor to it, I only use it outside. The odor goes away after it dries. The Bifen IT is the most cost-effective pesticide you can buy. You can get it from solutionsstores.com, which is the cheapest supplier, but they do not ship to every state. If you can't get it from them, then try domyown.com. They ship to more places. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I’m curious/ confused about the reason for trenching to apply liquid termiticide for subterranean termites. If I was lazy or unable to trench could I not just apply to the edge of the building and possibly just reapply to make sure that it soaked in and penetrated into the soil. The property that I am treating is fairly flat and I don’t feel like there is much worry of runoff. Also I have had mud tubes coming out of the expansion joint of my driveway between the driveway and the house, I treated in there and just let it soak in and then retreated again being careful not to over treat the crack to where it would runoff. Does this make any sense? Or can you help me understand why trenching is needed? Thanks so much in advance! Mike
The reason we like to trench is because termites travel a couple of inches below the surface of the ground. If you just pour a liquid pesticide on the top of the ground, then it may not penetrate all that well into the soil. If you have some very sandy soil, then this may penetrate deep enough to be effective, but it is somewhat of a Hail Mary Pass. So, the concern is not run off, but rather ensuring that the termites are going to pass through the pesticide. Now, most of the time when the termites hit the foundation or the slab, they're going to head up. Therefore, if you were to treat the perimeter of the home with a non-repellent pesticide that is slow acting, such as Taurus SC, then it is possible that the termites are going to cross it on their way to the food supply. In that event, it is possible that it will take out the colony. However, termites do not always go up. Sometimes they go down and may find an opening in the foundation or crack in the slab that they can use to get through to another area of the house that you have not treated with the pesticide. In that event, simply treating around the foundation would be ineffective. However, if you trenched, then it wouldn't matter what direction the termites take, because they would be crossing through the pesticide that is in the trench. Therefore, this becomes an almost foolproof way to treat termites. I'm not saying that it is a bad idea to treat around the perimeter of your house with a pesticide, and I think that will help to deter termites, but I wouldn't hang my hat on it to prevent them. It sure will prevent a lot of other kinds of bugs though. If you have mud tubes that are coming up from an expansion joint, then I think it is fine to treat the expansion joint, but you must break open the mud tubes first. I would just break open the mud tubes, apply Taurus SC with a garden sprayer over the broken mud tubes, and then I would let the termites rebuild them. This may be all you need to take out the colony. I would not be overly concerned about using too much Taurus SC. It doesn't take that much to do the job, but I would make the broken mud tubes nice and wet. So, what you are suggesting actually does make sense. I hope that answers your questions. Be well my friend.
The FOGGING.. I have lived in my house for 15 years. I am in Michigan. The beginning of this past summer, a neighbor 2 houses down from me, had their home fogged. Let me start by saying that I am deathly terrified of roaches. I have had a terrible time researching because the photos that pop up of them are terrifying to me. Back to the neighbor. I knew I was in trouble when I noticed TWO pest control trucks parked there from 730am until dark. For TWO DAYS.😢 I walked down on the 2nd day & asked if they were treating for roaches. They were. I was horrified because even though I know that german roaches hate to be exposed to light, my fear was they would scurry right down to my house. The pest control guy said as long as I DO NOT HAVE THEM I dont need to worry. The neighbor between us was finding them in her yard. And now they are here. Im certain they have been here for months. ( I have watched your german roach video and am getting ready to wage war )
This just popped up again and it does not have a response to it, but I'm sure that I did respond to it. Please let me know if you did not receive my response and I will resend it. Please note that the sprayer I recommended has been giving me a lot of trouble lately and I am now testing a couple of other ones. The one I suggested seems to stop working from time to time and I have no idea why. I am going to ditch it and go with a different one. Check back with me in a couple of weeks and I will let you know what I come up with. I ordered three different sprayers and none of them are here yet. Be well my friend.
@@MoonGardi85 Hi! Knock on wood YES!! I was able to get rid of them completely. It took work, a lot of work, and even more tears but I did. What a nightmare. Im still so paranoid because these neighbors, just 3 houses away, are still so filthy😬 They are also hoarder’s and have a ton of junk inside and outside. Anyway. I will start by saying do not call on a pest control company. I used 2 different companies and wasted a ton of money. You really must be vigilant and go room to room. Do not cut corners. I am a very clean person already so cleaning wasn’t huge but staying on top of the baiting, powder, mopping was huge. We were constantly making sure we had the best bait/powder and put it everywhere we could. Repeatedly. I saved the vacuuming and mopping for night time and did this EVERY NIGHT. I got rid of boxes. Food boxes like unopened Mac & cheese, Cereal, etc I put into sealed ziplocks and plastic containers. Any packages delivered were opened immediately and boxes tossed outside to our burn pit. I used everything suggested in this video and purchased from do my own ( do it yourself site recommended here ) If you do this with the mindset that you want these disgusting creatures to have no where to go where they won’t come into contact with powders/chemicals/bait and do not stop until you’re sure. And even then? Keep at it. It can be done. Even now with summer here I still have my husband put fresh powder all over our basement floor and into our electrical outlets/light switches. I haven’t seen one ( or evidence of any ) since following the advice I learned here. The only thing I did NOT do was drill holes into my walls for powder. Good luck to you and I am so sorry you are going through it.
How is CYkicks? Lived in Arizona and my most concern is scorpion and have been used CYkicks to control it. I was told that there is not technically a pesticide to kill scorpion but the way to prevent scorpion is to minimize its food which is any insects. I've been used CYKicks and diatomaceous earth powder. Do you have any inputs on controlling scorpions? Thank you!
If you want to control scorpions, then I recommend Onslaught FastCap Insecticide. It's not cheap, but it is effective. Cy-Kick CS is a good pesticide, but not the best choice for scorpions. Just follow label directions. I will give you a link to the product. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. www.solutionsstores.com/onslaught-fastcap-insecticide
I work for a big pc company and I'm clearly doing it wrong. I go behind other techs all the time to actually get rid of German roaches. I pride myself on being able to do this where most can't. I refuse to let folks continue to live with them longer than necessary. Sad times where they let it go on when it's such a health issue. I've saved a bunch of customers from cancelling because of this. Maybe I should have let em and kept em for myself.
You know, in pest control, as with all things in life, you can't go wrong taking the high ground and always doing the right thing. Please don't ever regret doing that. It's who you are and who you should be. Well done. Thanks for the comment. Be well my friend.
@Guy's Pest Solutions I'm working on developing my own pc co to get up and running in the near future. While I already was doing what you mentioned to get rid of roaches (except drilling holes in their walls) I did not know about the mop solution for the floors and cabinets. I'll be adding that to my services when I'm doing this for myself.
I wish you well with getting your company off the ground. There are things about German roaches that I was not taught in pest control school, and you probably were not taught either. For example, nobody ever mentioned that these guys will breed in the wall voids and don't need to come out for food or water. They can eat each other to survive. That is why you need to drill the walls and treat with boric acid. If you have any doubts about what I am telling you, please watch a video that was done by Animal Planet. I think you will agree that these folks know something about this stuff, and they are very reputable. They have no clue how to solve the problem, but they do an excellent job explaining what the problem is. They were actually able to get inside the walls to video. I will give you a link to it. The reason pest controllers fail is because they underestimate the roaches. These things are the ultimate survival machines. The exist for only two reasons... To survive and to multiply, and they are very proficient at both. The only predator they have are people, and they are not very good predators. In fact, people suck at it. So, the roaches reproduce out of control. The only way to eliminate them is to get a pesticide every place that a cockroach can possibly place its feet. If you leave any stone unturned, the roaches will most likely find it. Let me tell you something though... If you do the treatments correctly, then you can just specialize in roaches and forget everything else. Businesses, like hotels, restaurants, and even hospitals will beat a path to your door, if you can guarantee total elimination. It will take a little while for the word to spread, but when it does, the business will be flooding in. Just a couple of words of caution. Do not target homes or apartment buildings. Stick with commercial accounts. The reason is that you cannot count on tenants or even homeowners to faithfully mop floors with Nibor-D. Also, landlords are cheap. They don't want to spend money on roaches. Most homeowners don't either. They want cheap and fast, but there is no such thing with German roaches. It will cost homeowners and landlords a lot of money for this service, so they tend to cheap out and hire the guys that promise the world and deliver poor results. It's kind of like people paying a pest controller $300 to do a drywood termite spot treatment, instead of $2000 to fumigate. The price tag wins the account, but the termites are going to win in the end. You cannot successfully spot treat drywood termites and you cannot eliminate a German cockroach infestation without treating the wall voids. The higher end restaurants and hotels will be willing to pay whatever it costs for success. They have the resources, and they will turn to you after the cheap pest controllers fail. The only thing is that you can never fail. When you go in to pitch the account, you need to explain the reasons your competitors fail and what you will do differently. You also need to train the staff at your accounts to do the Nibor-D treatments, like mopping the floors, treating carpeting, and replacing the Nibor-D, if they clean a surface. Don't count on accounts buying Nibor-D. You need to inspect every week and give them the product as part of the service. It may take a few years before you have a reputation established and business are seeking you out, but if you never fail, it will happen. When it does, you will need to hire people. Do not make the mistake of just training people and cutting them loose to do the work. You need to stay in the field. Hire people to do the paperwork and the sales. You need to be spending all your time ensuring that everything is done right the first time. It's not what you "expect," it's what you "inspect," that matters most. As you have already observed, if you leave employees on their own, some of them will definitely screw it up. The last piece of advice I would like to offer is to give this a lot of thought before going into it. You are going to be putting in a massive number of hours. This is not going to be a 9 to 5 job. Running a business takes total commitment and you won't be getting much time off. It can put a lot of strain on your marriage and relationship with your kids. If you do it, then start small. You may want to work full time and just start by doing side jobs on the weekends, until you have a good client base. After you get rolling and the jobs are coming in, then you can go full time. It's a great way to get your feet wet with running a business, without putting too much at risk. Just remember, it is always service before profit. Leave no customer unhappy. I wish you well with it. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Annimal Planet video: th-cam.com/video/RU9oOCYPros/w-d-xo.html
@Guy's Pest Solutions I'm so glad I'm of the same mindset for most all of this. The only difference is I want to be able to also raise money to fund services for those that can't afford it. How I'm going to do that as yet I don't know. I'm currently over 40 and my kids are grown and my husband is also a pest control tech that I trained to deal with these pests the right way. I do understand that the wall voids may be needed for total elimination tho it's hard to say how many home owners will be keen on it being done. I have a bit of a twist to this whole thing that I'd like to discuss more with the hopes of maybe franchising in the future so don't want to put it on blast here yet but if there's a way I can chat directly casually that would be great. I'm new in the industry in comparison so I've reached out to several people that have been at this longer than I have. I focus mostly on Germans and bedbugs and want to continue doing that on my own where I can do it the better way and not the way I'm directed to do it.
@@kristinhl364 Helping others is always a wonderful idea. There is an endless number of people who cannot afford pest control. You may want to consider starting a 501(c)(3) charity. That allows you to raise money tax free. You can still draw a salary from it, but it does add another dimension to the corporation. Now, in addition to actually doing the pest control, you also need to raise money, and that can be time consuming. It's a wonderful thing to do, but you need to devote your life to it. I can tell you that, just answering questions for people the way I do takes 2 to 3 hours a day. Running a charity would be a life changing. People that do it are saints, but it takes a lot of commitment. Going the other way with franchising adds a totally different dimension to it all. To get into franchising, you really need to have your business well established. It's definitely a future thinking aspect. You need to be careful. A lot of businesses fail because they try to get too big too fast and run out of operating capital. People don't always realize how much money it takes to run a business and they go into it underfunded. Even well-established corporations like, Toys R Us, Montgomery Ward, Sears, and many others, got into trouble because they didn't read the market and they made unwise decisions. Even the US auto industry had to be bailed out by the government to stay afloat. If it can happen to them, then it can happen to anyone. They all had one thing in common. They overextended themselves. That is why you always need to go slow. Start small and grow your business in baby steps. If you build a better mousetrap, the world will beat a path to your door, but be careful. It is better to turn down work, rather than overextend yourself. Don't start hiring help until you are ready. Going too far, too fast, is often a recipe for disaster. You can lose everything and go bankrupt. Slow and steady wins the race. Remember, even Walt Disney failed at his first business attempt. I am always happy to talk about and answer any questions you may have. You can write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. You can feel free to pitch ideas to me. I will give you honest feedback, even if it's not what you want to hear. Be well Kristin.
If you have roaches in your car, then you most likely have them in your home as well. Therefore, you need to treat both your home and the car. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat your home. If you live in an apartment, then do everything, except drilling the walls. Let me know if you live in an apartment and I will provide more guidance. Cars are really hard to treat. The first thing you should do is make sure that you do not park in a garage. Parking in a garage will allow the cockroaches the opportunity to infest the home. Naturally, you want to start by thoroughly cleaning the car. Make sure that any food wrappers, crumbs, and so forth are removed. That means you need to vacuum really well. You should remove the child seats and kill the roaches. Remove the fabric off the seats and spray them with Raid Ant and Roach Killer, then wash them. Spray the hard surfaces of the child seats with the Raid as well. The next day, wash the seats really well and replace the fabric. You should have a strict rule that nobody ever eats in your car, including you. I know that's hard with kids, but it is necessary. I did it with my kids. Next, you want to spray Nibor-D every place where it will not be noticed. You can spray it under the seats, in different places under the hood, and the entire trunk. Spray it everywhere that it will not be seen or will not damage anything. After that, see if you can puff some boric acid into the doors. This can sometimes be accomplished by inserting the duster where the windows meet the doors. There's usually a seal right there where you may be able to insert the duster tip. Place an IGR disc under one of the seats, one in the trunk, and one someplace under the hood. Replace them every 90 days. Finally, apply a bait every place where it will not be seen. Just use small dots and use a different formulation of bait every 30 days. Domyown.com has a good selection of gel baits. Try to get six different baits and number them 1 to 6 with a Sharpie. On month seven, start with bait number 1 again. In the summer months, always park your car in the sun, with all the windows shut because roaches do not survive well at high temperatures. You can also put an electric heater in the car to boost up the temperature even more. If you can get the temp over 120 for several hours, that may do the trick. If you live in a cold climate, then you always want to keep the car outside because roaches do not survive well in cold either.
German cockroaches are hitchhikers, so be careful that you do not bring them into the homes of friends and family members. They will get into anything you have in the car, and they will attach themselves to your clothing.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend. German cockroach video: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
Most companies don't even like to go up an attic unless the home has a built in ladder into the attic because it's just not a safe thing and insurance claims from attics could get your account cancelled and if double in rate
I think it's more of a case that pest controllers just don't like to go into hot attics. Any pest controller that cannot figure out how to navigate an attic without getting hurt isn't one I would hire. It's not an insurance issue. They have workman's comp. Heck, even the cable companies go up there. I get that it's not fun, but it's the right thing to do. I mean, you can't just expect to do the easy stuff on any type of job in any occupation. Pest controllers need to go in attics to inspect and treat. It's just that simple. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, thank you for your great videos. How could I send you a picture of the ants or termites that I have around a window? How could I contact you? Thank you!
You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, but my experience has been that I seldom get photos that are detailed enough to identify the species. I can tell you if they are ants or termites, but identifying the species requires close up photos that are in very good focus. I am happy to have a go at it though. You can also watch my video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites and my video on how to identify termite species. It is not hard to do if you have actual specimens. I will give you the links. Be well my friend. Video on how to tell termites from carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/enJPS-h70Bs/w-d-xo.html Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
You are not cheap my friend. You are doing this stuff yourself because you it is expensive to hire a pro, and who can afford that these days? I know I can't. The truth is that most people do not tip me anything, so I think $5 is a very nice gesture and it is very much appreciated. Tipping me or thanking me is never expected or required. I am just happy to be of service. The fact that you did this means that you are a very special person and there is nothing cheap about you. Thank you so much. I wish you well my friend.
I don't charge anything. All my services are totally free. Just email your phone number to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please let me know the nature of the question in the email. It is helpful to know the target pest and the exact problem you are having with it. I will send you a text to see when it would be a good time to call. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Ants God bless you! I live in the country up in the mountains, in Quebec Canada 🇨🇦, where it is mainly sandy, and I have these huge ants because before I bought the property in 2021, the land was strewn with wooden pallets that were rotting away, and as I removed all the pallets, I noticed that caused me to have giant wood eating ants all around the land near the house and that also, the ants 🐜 started eating the wood around my house windows too! Plus, I have these teeny weeny ones that are reddish that pick and burn! What type are they? So yesterday, I went to the store and bought some Corn starch. Apparently, all I have to do is sprinkle some on top of the ant holes and wait until they start bringing it into their nests to feed the other workers & their Queen, then, I have to make sure that the water gets in their holes as the Corn Starch will turn into ciment in their bodies and eliminate the colony. Would you have any suggestions to add to that? I’m a retired woman on a small monthly fixed income. That’s why I have to find low cost solutions! Thankfully, Nicole
Those small red ants are most likely European fire ants. My advice is to not mess with these guys. They are known for their aggressive behavior and they will sting. Their nest can be hard to locate because they typically do not build mounds. They usually nest under rocks, logs, or other sorts of debris like that. Normally, I would recommend a bait to treat these guys, but that sort of thing is usually illegal in Canada. You can get it shipped to you from the US, but it's expensive. So, you may want to try to make your own bait out of either boric acid or diatomaceous earth, mixed with equal parts of sugar. You can place this mixture in bottle caps and place it wherever you are seeing the activity. Obviously, you cannot do this if it's raining or if there's snow on the ground. So, you want a dry day to do it. If it rains, then you are going to need to replace the bait. I have no idea if this is going to work, but I think that is your best bet. I seriously doubt that using cornstarch will be of any benefit at all. I have learned to never say never in pest control, but I have never heard of using cornstarch to kill ants, and I'm aware of no research that would support doing this. If the homemade bait does not work, then I can recommend a professional bait for you. With regard to the carpenter ants, you should know that they do not eat wood. The reason they are attacking your house is because there is probably some sort of soft, wet wood that is attracting them. That means you may have some sort of roof leak, plumbing leak, or perhaps some of the caulking around the building has failed. Usually, when you see carpenter ants there is a moisture problem. Another reason you can get carpenter ants is if you have termites. Carpenter ants like to eat termites, and they love that the termites already excavated the wood for them. You only have subterranean termites where you are, so I recommend that you inspect around the building to see if you can find mud tubes coming up from the ground. You will typically see them on the outside perimeter of the house, but you may also find them under the house, if you have a crawl space. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat carpenter ants. Keep in mind that the ants that are damaging your home are just a satellite colony. The main colony is outside someplace. Therefore, it is always advisable to treat the outside of your house at least every 90 days. Again, the problem you will run into is that you cannot buy pesticides in Canada. I have a supplier that will ship pesticides to you, but they are not cheap and you told me that money is tight for you. I don't know what I can tell you about that. The Canadian government, in their infinite wisdom, has decided that you are not allowed to treat your own pests. They don't care how poor you may happen to be. It would appear that in their mind, if you cannot afford to hire a pest controller, then it is only fair that your house get destroyed by carpenter ants. I do not understand their thinking, but I can tell you these are not people I would vote for. In any event, your choices are a pretty limited. You can either pay a pest controller or you can pay a premium to get the pesticides that you need to do yourself. I honestly do not know of any way to do this without using a pesticide. I will give you a link to the supplier, so that you can check it out. I looked it up, and you can purchase 1 quart of Bifen IT for around $38 US. I don't know how big your house is, but this is probably enough to treat it twice. So, you are probably looking at around $19 US, to treat your home every 90 days. You do not need to treat in the winter months when it is freezing. I am so sorry that I cannot be of more help with that. I hope this is of some help to you. Be well Nickie. Video on how to treat carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html Video on how to treat the exterior of your house with Bifen IT: th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html Bifen IT: uspestsupply.com/bifen-generic-talstar-7-9/
I am not an attorney, so I try not to get involved in legal matters, but I can tell you that you need to read the contract carefully. A lot of the time pest control contracts are full of legalese and clauses that release the companies from all liability and they usually require you to agree to arbitration. So essentially, they will not treat your house unless you agree not to sue them and you agree that they are allowed to fail. I don't know if all contracts contain this language, but I have looked at several contracts in the past few months and they all did contained that type of language. The most that is offered in these contracts is that the company will retreat if they fail. I know that is not what you want to hear, but this is usually the case. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Guy. I have been doom scrolling your videos. I want to do this myself because I want to be self reliant. I bought a home in the hills west of phoenix in Arizona where snakes and scorpions ants spiders and ants are the main problem (very low humidity). I read a comment you made about clothes off the floor…I get it. What “cocktail” should I be using in Az? I am going to use Onslought Fastcap spider and scorpion. What else should I add to it to get the rest?
Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide is a good choice for scorpions. Mix it according to label directions in a battery-operated tank sprayer and spray up the side of the building 36 inches and out away from the building 48 inches. Be sure to soak the area where the building meets the ground. Also apply this on your patios, stairs, sidewalks, and that sort of thing. In other words, you want to apply it any place you frequently walk. This will stop the scorpions from getting in the building or hanging out on surfaces where you frequently walk. Next, you should apply it on all ornamental plants around the building as well, being sure to treat the dirt under the plants. I recommend applying it every 60 days. Look for obvious penetrations in the side of the house and treat them with D-Fense dust. Just buy a duster, fill it halfway with the dust, and puff the dust into any cracks or crevices that you find. After treating, it is a good idea to caulk these penetrations as well. If you want, you can treat the rest of the yard with Bifen XTS. It’s not as good as Onslaught, but it’s cheaper and easier to apply. This should slow them up a lot. I will give you a link to that video. You are correct that you should always make sure that you hang up all your clothes. You should never leave clothes laying on the floor. Clothes that are waiting to be washed should be kept in a sealed hamper. Shoes should be kept off the floor on some sort of a shoe rack. After you finish the exterior treatment, you should check the house for scorpions. Look under appliances, in closets, under the bed, and that sort of thing. Be sure to check shoes, curtains, or anyplace these guys may be hiding. To assist in your search, you can use a black light. All scorpions will glow green when exposed to a black light. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard with Bifen XTS: th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide: www.domyown.com/onslaught-fastcap-spider-and-scorpion-insecticide-p-2579.html D-Fense dust: www.domyown.com/dfense-deltamethrin-dust-p-2428.html Duster: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099X3HS47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The fumigation would have killed all carpenter ants. So doing a regular pest service including the eaves should keep new carpenter ants from entering to the attic
Here's the thing. You may have the carpenter ants at the same time as the termites, but you may not. Carpenter ants will eat the termites while they are alive and so it is common to have both problems at the same time. However, it is also possible that you do not have the carpenter ants at the time the fumigation was done and the carpenter ants come along for a plentiful source of food and easy tunneling after the tent comes down. This can happen weeks after the fumigation. This certainly does not always happen, but it is a possibility that should be mentioned to customers. Kind of like telling people about the possible side effects of taking a medication. Also, even if you do have a current carpenter ant infestation that is killed off by the fumigation, the ants in the home are most likely a satellite colony. The main colony is most likely outside the home in a stump of something and these things are going to return. So, you are correct that you must do a proper treatment of the exterior of your home every three months to prevent carpenter ants, as well as stopping more drywood termites from entering. If you don't, then you are definitely going to get reinfested with the termites because your neighbors have them too. These guys fly to your house, so they will be back. Be well my friend.
Not sure why this was suggested? Don't like the term 'control' (as it usually means extermination rather than control). Prefer the term 'pest' (something that is where we, homo sapiens, don't want it to be) than the loaded term 'vermin'. Given a bit of careful and light intervention, without turning it into an occasional/stressful/panicked/expensive occurrence, we can help nature maintain a balance while deterring the most pesty situations. However, I'm in the UK and (in the States) you've got loads of types of beasties that actually EAT your homes! We tend to use stone or bricks, here, for most of our building and damp is usually the only thing that might undermine our structures (bit of woodworm, sometimes, perhaps). Knowing, for one thing, that there are always more pests out there (and that they play vital roles in the ecosystem) - I prefer consistent deterrence every time. What is 'fogging your yard'? It sounds horrendous! It sounds seriously heavy handed and random. Aren't mosquitoes just like our midges, really? They're attracted by sweat and the carbon dioxide in exhaled breath? Don't be sweaty and trap the exhaled CO2 so that they can't 'see' you (from a distance, at least). Same measures, as help protect against human to human respiratory infections, help hide me from the midges.
This has to be the most braindead post ever, don't be sweaty? I have hyperhydrosis and don't have a choice, and trap the carbon dioxide from your breaths??? You might as well not breathe, lol. And ... I don't give a shit if they get exterminated, there are so many of them, and they provide nothing, they invaded my home, so survival of the fittest time.
I think what you are basically suggesting is what we call “integrated pest management.” This includes things like cleaning up habitats, installing physical barriers, introducing natural predators into the environment, and so forth. For example, we know that mosquitoes breed in water and so, if you remove those breeding areas, that is a natural way to eliminate the mosquito population. However, there are pest controllers that do not do this because they make a pretty good living by spraying pesticides. Fogging is simply a process where they aerosolize a pyrethrin and basically create a fine misted kind of fog that will cover everything it comes near. The pesticide has an immediate kill of any insect that it touches. The product is often used both inside and outside, for different target pests. Midges are somewhat different than mosquitoes, but yes, they are attracted to people much the same way. Of course, you need to understand that this is America. Folks here seem to have a much different way of viewing the world than many other people in other countries. I'm not saying that's a good or bad thing. I'm just saying that it's different than the perspectives that are probably held in the UK. That being the case, folks here are more apt to approach these sorts of situations in a different way than you would in the UK. I suppose it's just a cultural sort of thing and I'm sure that it will differ from country to country around the world. In the case of Americans, what most people want is for somebody to come in and simply get rid of the problem. Unfortunately, this sometimes leads to people in the business taking advantage of unsuspecting customers that do not understand how a particular pest functions. This is the primary reason why I did the video. Knowledge is power and people really do need to know the truth about the pest control industry. You are correct about the term “control.” That would seem to imply that you are not going to eliminate a problem, but rather reduce it to a significant extent. I honestly do not know why they decided to coin that phrase in the industry, but they've been doing it for many years now. The truth is that it makes no sense to me either. Thank you so much for the comment and for watching the video. Be well my friend.
We have gnats? Is that what you mean? They fly toward your face, and mouth and eyes. Mosquitoes in some places cause malaria. UK is blessed. You don't even need screens, must be nice. But your mold issues are awful.
I think most of the baits that you can buy locally are okay to use. Just keep in mind that bugs can become resistant to baits. For some pests, like ants, this is most likely not a problem, but it is a huge problem for roaches. So, sometimes you need to rotate baits and you may not find a good selection locally. Domyown.com has a very good selection of different formulations of baits. Also, some ants do not like sweet baits and that is what most stores sell. Some ants like a protein bait and that can be hard to find locally. For ants, I always use both a sweet bait and a protein bait at the same time. They almost always go for the sweet, but not always. Think about it. Ants like to eat other bugs and those bugs are not sweet. They are protein. Outside your house, the main source of food is protein. Most of them do like the sweet stuff, but I guess there are some that are kind of health conscious and don't eat junk food. Lol. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I live in NYC, what type of termites are in the area? Also, I recently had a termite inspection that reviled that I have termites in the basement eating away the structure under the basement steps. There is also evidence of carpenter ants. On the outside, there is evidence of ant and termite activity. The outside of the base of the house is concrete. Terminix wants to charge almost $4000. Can I treat this myself and if so, how would I go about it? Thank you in advance.
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. The only kind of termites that you have in New York are the most common species of subterranean termites. These guys always colonize in the ground and never in your house. They're not going to your house to live, but rather they're going there simply to eat because your house just happens to be their favorite restaurant. The reason you are also seeing carpenter ants is because they love to eat termites. Therefore, it is not unusual to see a termite infestation and a carpenter ant infestation at the same time. One of the problems that you have in New York City is that you folks seem to love concrete quite a bit. Unfortunately, concrete makes treating termites much more problematic. You see, like I mentioned before, the termites always colonize in the ground and they must return to that colony fairly often to bring food back to the other termites and to obtain the moisture that they need to survive. For that reason, the way we go about treating them is we place a pesticide barrier around the entire building. Since termites only travel underground and never above ground, the pesticide must be placed under the ground where termites travel. If you place a pesticide barrier under the ground around your home, then the termites will have no choice but to pass right through it on their way to and from the colony. When they do, they will bring the pesticide back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. No colony, no infestation in your home. The problem with having concrete around your home is that, in order to get the pesticide down where the termites are traveling, you have to bore holes through the concrete and then inject the pesticide into the ground under pressure. This requires some pretty expensive equipment, so it is not practical for a homeowner to do themselves. As to the question of whether you can do it yourself, it will depend on if your house is surrounded by concrete. What I often see in New York, is concrete that runs from the side of the house all the way to the property line. If this is the case for you, then unfortunately, you may be stuck with pest controllers. Before you go that way though, there is a way that you can attempt to treat this yourself, but it's not a sure thing. The only good news about the species of termites in your area is that they are very slow eaters and so you do have some time to experiment a little if you like. The other problem that you have though is that it is very difficult to obtain pesticides in New York because your state has decided to pass laws making it illegal to sell pesticides to you. The pest controllers know this because, after all, they are the ones that lobbied to get those laws passed. Now that they have made it illegal for you to do anything yourself, they can charge you whatever they like. Anyway, if you can get your hands on a can of fipronil foam, then you can try to treat this yourself. This product can be obtained from Amazon, but I do not know if they will ship to New York. I will provide a link to it, so that you can see if you can get your hands on some. If you can, then what you need to do is drill holes along the entire area where you have seen the damage, that are about four inches apart, and halfway through the thickness of the wood. The holes only have to be wide enough for the applicator tip of the foam can to enter. After all the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until it is either coming back out at you or it is coming out the other holes. There must be foam either going into or coming out of every hole. Just like the pesticide that you would put around your home under the ground, the foam works the exact same way. In fact, it uses the exact same active ingredient. This is a slow kill product and the termites are not going to realize that it is a poison. So, they will eat the wood that you have just poisoned and they will bring that poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Oftentimes, this will have the same exact effect as if you applied it around your home. That being said, it does not always work. Still, a can of foam costs about $40 and that sure beats the Hell out of spending $4000. Now, whether you treat from the outside or the inside, this is a slow process and you can expect it to take up to eight or nine weeks before the termites are gone. This is because we need to give the termites time to bring the product back to the other termites and spread it around, so that they are all poisoned. If this was a quick kill product, then it wouldn't work. If by chance you do not have concrete surrounding your house, then let me know and I will tell you another way that you can go about treating your termites. If the procedure I just described about the foam does not work, then you will have to hire a pest controller. That being said, you should know that prices can vary wildly in this industry. Therefore, it pays to shop. If you must hire a pest controller, call at least six different companies to get estimates. Now, let's talk about your carpenter ants. Unfortunately, even though the carpenter ants are hanging out in the exact same places as the termites, they must be treated differently. It just so happens that I have a video on how to treat for carpenter ants yourself and I will place a link below for you. Again, since you live in New York, you may have difficulty finding the products, but try Amazon to see if they will ship to you. If you strike out with Amazon, then try some of the sellers on eBay. Some of the eBay sellers are really hungry and they will ship to pretty much anywhere. Of course, you will pay extra for this service. Still, cheaper than what the pros are going to charge. Keep in mind that, almost all of the time, the colony that is in your home is just a satellite colony. The main colony is outside someplace. Therefore, even after you kill all the carpenter ants in your house, you will easily become reinfested if you do not place a pesticide barrier around your home every three months. The only other way to avoid reinfestation is if you find that colony outside your house and eliminate it. Eliminating the outside colony can be somewhat problematic because there may be more than one of them. That is why I always recommend doing the exterior treatment of your house every three months. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Fipronil foam: smile.amazon.com/BASF-805571-Termidor-Termiticide-Insecticide/dp/B07QWMJ7JM/ref=sr_1_7?crid=26IQZ73HGVIAI&keywords=fipronil+foaming+aerosol&qid=1658050230&sprefix=fipronil+foam%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-7 Video on how to treat for carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you very much for your detailed, informative, response. Most of the house is surrounded by concrete. However, the front of the house, where the lawn is located, there is dirt. Would that be enough of an area to do the job? I think that is the way the termites and ants entered the house. BTW, I have watched several of your videos and I do not mind the length at all. If the information is helpful, I don't mind sitting through them. For the information that you provide, you will have a few hundred thousand subscribers in no time. Thank you again.
@@ikeyike543 If you can get the products, then I would apply the granules wherever there is dirt and I would also do the interior treatment with the foam. If the termites are attacking from the front of the house, then there is a reasonable chance that you can eliminate them for under $100. It's not a guaranteed thing, but it's definitely worth a shot. I know that I would give it a try. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well m friend. By the way, I was born in Brooklyn.
just a quick one here in South Africa we do not build with wood bricks. the Government spray for misquotes in big body's of water. you responsible for your own misquote issues.
Please watch my video on how to get rid of the mosquitoes. Mostly you need to just get rid of the breeding areas. Mosquito video: th-cam.com/video/LkkrW_tlLkg/w-d-xo.html
You are absolutely correct. Bed bugs are super nasty and not easy to get rid of. While they are not easy to get rid of, they are very easy to get. That is why I do not like people spending the night at my house and I do not like staying in hotels. When I do have to spend the night somewhere, I always do a thorough inspection for bed bugs and German cockroaches. If I encounter either of those things, my luggage doesn't go in the room, and neither do I. I would rather spend the night in the car than in a building that has bed bugs or German cockroaches. Neither of those things are anything to mess with.
I'm sorry. Carpenter bees do not generally attack painted wood, but they can get into stained wood, particularly when the stain kind of fades out from the sun and weather. Of course, this does not always happen and often it does not. I was simply pointing out that it was a possibility and I have seen it before. Not something I would lose a lot of sleep over. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks for the reply yes I see your point painted wood woukd be slightly better l. But we re stain every year anyways so it keeps it fresh enough to deter thr carpenter bees. It's amazing how painting or staining the wood repels them thanks again for everything you're doing. Amazing work
@@tdelli3675 I'm so sorry to hear that. Please watch my video on how to identify cockroach species and make sure this is a German cockroach. If it is, then please watch my video on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. After you watch the video, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and ask for the German modification for Canada. Let me know that you already watched the German cockroach video. When you watch the video, take good notes. You must do it correctly for it to work. Also, let me know if you live in an apartment. I have a modification for apartments as well. Please let me know if this is not German roaches and I will give you the treatment for whatever species it is. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify cockroach species: th-cam.com/video/FN7JyBNSooY/w-d-xo.html Video on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
When you say 2 1/2 feet, is that measurement the distance from the house to the end of the river rock or is that the depth? Big difference. If this is the width of the gravel and it is only a couple of inches thick, then check to see if there is a weed barrier under the rock. If so, check to see if it will allow water to pass through it. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters a lot with termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
To rid your home of fleas, the first thing you need to do is to vacuum all the upholstered furniture and pet bedding, paying particular attention two places where fleas can hide, like behind cushions. Next, vacuum the floor throughout the house. If you have a vacuum with a disposable bag, then discard the bag outside in the trash. If you have a vacuum with a reusable canister, empty it outside in the trash and then wash it out with the garden hose before bringing it back in the house. Wash all bed linens and pet bedding in your washing machine and dry on high heat. Next, spray a pesticide that is labeled for fleas, on all the floors and on areas of upholstered furniture that does not come in contact with people or pets. To treat floors, hold the can at arm’s length and make sweeping motions across the floor to cover all surfaces. For upholstered furniture, you should spray under the cushions and then any folds that there are. The product that I like best is called PT Ultracide. I will give you a link for it. Fleas can be hard to kill, so you may need to do this treatment every two weeks until the problem is solved. If you have pets, then you should treat them as recommended by your vet. The reason fleas got into the house in the first place is because they are outside. If you have a flea problem outside, then there is a good chance you will end up with a flea problem inside. Even if you don't have pets, the fleas will still jump on you when you are outside, and so you can carry them in. Therefore, you need to treat the outside as well. I do this with a hose end sprayer. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. I find that treating the yard every 60 days seems to do the trick.
we have rodent problem how to solve it with out poison. as we have cats rabbits and bird. few field mice has moved into the house.....how to do it easy and effectively.
I have a video on that and I will place a link below. You can use traps that do not harm the mice. Also, I show you how to build them out. I hope that helps. Be well Michele. Mouse video: th-cam.com/video/GNg51AWjm_Q/w-d-xo.html
I'm not really a big fan of using diatomaceous earth. I do not know of any professional pest controllers that use it. This product will kill certain kinds of insects, but it is a dust that can be a respiratory irritant. I only recommended its use when more effective products are not available. For example, boric acid dust works much better than DE, so I always recommend using that first indoors. Outside treatments are another story. So, how you go about treating a pest is going to depend upon the species. In my opinion, DE is never a good choice, if something better is available. I often receive questions from people in other countries who do not have the proper pesticides available to them. When that happens, I do need to sometimes recommend using DE, but I never guarantee its effectiveness or safety. I think it does work for some species, but it would not be my first choice. It is just not as safe and effective as other options. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for replying. I used DE to treat my bed bug issue. Since it is non toxic i put it every where. We tried the sprays before but they worked temporarily only. I do live in Canada and basically everything is illegal here. I will keep the boric acid product you mentioned in mind as I never knew about that until I watched your video.
@@FatherFH I am happy that DE worked for you. Did you mix it with water? If so, can you tell me how you mixed it? How much DE to how much water? Thanks.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks, i used it dry. Room Has carpet. Line at the doors. Line all around the bed frame. The whole mattress. Top of the mattress liner. Removed all the pillows and blankets and put them in a large tote and sprayed them. Left them in the tote in the basement so no source of food. 6 months later a good vacuuming so it doesn't look like there is cocaine everywhere. 🤣
You are right. It wasn't that long ago that pest controllers were charging about $25 a month. Now it's more like $65 to $85 a month. A lot of folks can't afford it anymore. Be well my friend.
In some states you do, but in most states you do not. Besides, I have never seen the pest control police ever raid someone's home and haul them away to pest control prison. Mostly, it is just illegal to sell the products to unlicensed applicators, so it is hard to get what you need. There is absolutely no logic to it, but it is what it is. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I'm just discovering your channel, you are a true gem Guy. Endless gratitude.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Absolutely!! Love his honesty.
Thank you so much. Always good to hear from a fellow pest controller. I have actually been doing this for 41 years now. Most folks in the business aren't even that old. If there is one thing that I have learned in all that time, it's keep an open mind. Not just for pest control, but for all sorts of other things as well. You have but to look at some of the videos out there to discover that people are always thinking outside the box and coming up with all sorts of inventive ideas that we never thought of. You know, one of the first things I learned in pest control school was that it is impossible to totally eliminate a German cockroach infestation and most pest controllers, that truly do understand the biology, still believe that today. The thing is though that you cannot believe everything you are taught. Turns out that it IS possible. Not easy to be sure, but it can be done. So, if you don't mind just a bit of advice from an old man. I suggest that you question everything and don't blindly accept everything that you are told. Remember, there was a time when folks thought that heavier than air flight was impossible. Then the Wright Brothers came alone. So, always take in the knowledge that is being offered, but always think for yourself too. It will serve you well all your life.
Thank you for the comment and for not hating me. A lot of pest controllers don't like that I do this. They think that I am taking business away. The truth is though, that folks who can afford to hire a pro, rarely do it themselves. Most people would prefer not to mess with it. My market is mostly people who cannot afford a pro, but I have been pleasantly surprised that I am also hearing from pest controllers, like you, who do have an open mind and are interested in hearing what I have to say. I find that very humbling and I truly do appreciate the support.
Be well my friend. I wish you all the best going forward. Please let me know if I can ever be of any assistance to you. I am always here to help.
The world appreciates your honesty and clear explanations. God bless!!!!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I am so excited to have found you! If TH-cam gave awards I’d nominate you all day long.🏆🥇
Thank you.
What a nice thing to say. Thank you so much. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
ZWE ARE SO LUCKY TO HAVE YOU WITH US. INTEGRITY. HONESTY. CARING.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well Helen.
You're so helpful and you're doing a great service to humanity! Thank you!
That is so kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well Dave.
I m a pest professional and great video. You won’t get hate mail from me 😊 agreed that most professional wont spray eaves. I personally whenever I go clients home I spray their eaves.
Oh wow! That is so kind of you to say. I thought all the pest controllers were going to hate me. My wife was afraid that we would have haters showing up at the door. She didn't want me to post the video. Good for you that you spray the eves. If you are operating in drywood termite country, then it's almost criminal not to do it. It is very refreshing to hear from a pest controller that actually knows this stuff and isn't afraid to do the job correctly. Thank you so much for your comment and support. It is very much appreciated.
Be well my friend.
Guy You are the BEST i will save money and You tell the right way Thank You very much for what You do Sir
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
You're an awesome man!!! You're sharing from your heart with sincere passion. I thank you for your wealth of knowledge and humility and giving spirit. I have a terminite problem here in Gardena Ca but you've given me a wealth of knowledge to put my flag in the sand and fight the cost effective way. Thank you Sir 🙏
Thank you so much for those very kind words. Very much appreciated.
You live in prime drywood termite territory, and it is swarming season right now. You also have other species of termites where you live that are subterranean, but the species I hear about the most there are drywood termites. If you have drywood termites, then that is a situation where I do recommend professional intervention. The only sure way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. So, the first thing I would do is to determine the species. If you are seeing swarmers flying around inside your house right now, then these are probably drywood termites. There are a couple of ways to find out for sure. The easiest way is to call a pest control company and ask for a free inspection. They will let you know the species and give you an estimate for treatment. Always make sure that they list the species in the estimate and make sure that they give you a treatment plan. If they tell you that these are dry wood termites, then the only treatment plan you should be interested in would be fumigation. Some companies will offer to spot treat for a very attractive price, but don't fall for it. Spot treating almost never works. If they tell you that these are subterranean termites, you want to find out if they are Formosan. That would be extraordinarily important information to know. Never sign a contract with the salesperson present. Some of these people can you use high pressure sales tactics, but don't fall for any of it. Just thank them for their time and let them know that you will be getting several estimates. You may want to watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. It can save you a lot of money. The other option you have is to do the inspection yourself. This is really not all that hard to do. Just look for mud tubes, kick out holes, and frass. I have a video on how to identify termite species and I show you in the video what all of this stuff looks like and where to find it. If you are seeing kick out holes and frass, then these are drywood termites. If you are seeing mud tubes, then they are subterranean termites. If they are subterranean, then we need to figure out if they are Formosan, because they get treated differently than other species of subterranean termites. Don't worry about all that though right now. The important thing is to find out if these guys are drywood termites. Given what I know about the area you live in, there is a good chance that this is the case. If you have swarmers, please put a couple of specimens in a jar and hang on to them. You can show them to the pest controller, or you can use them to help you identify the species.
Please get back to me and let me know what you find out. I would be more than happy to stay with you every step of the way to help you get this resolved, and I will help you do this just as cost effectively as possible.
Be well my friend.
Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: th-cam.com/video/y-a8XOqVrlE/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/mY4FMvAHrMA/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions you're awesome!!!
I notice the sawdust looking droppings in my garage not alot but there's some. So I think they're just getting started. I will call someone today to come inspect the area.
Thanks again Guy!!!
@@briank.patterson5146 You are very welcome. I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I hope you get it resolved as cost effectively as possible. Please feel free to call on me any time. Be well my friend.
Another great video. Thank you so much for all your videos Guy.
That is so kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well John.
Yep guy no problem. I like all your videos. Thanks again man, youve helped me out alot with your videos. I appreciate it.
That is so kind of you to say. Thank you so much for watching this so quickly. Very much appreciated.
Be well my friend.
As always, Guy, your content is great!
Thank you so much. I love the feedback. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.
Man and I thought I knew what I was doing after a year but ya 30 plus years in the bizz shows love the videos keep em coming us newbie exterminators love em.
Thank you so much. That is very kind of you to say. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.
Guy's Pest Solutions:
I've been watching your videos all morning.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Please assist me, if you read this comment.
I found a rotten exterior window sill that is rotten on each end of the board, but not in the middle of the board. I also found a rotten exterior ceiling board (soffit) on the house.
Will you make a video or respond in the comments addressing the following issue below? The issue is this: I have been researching all day on pest control.
I believe some States restrict the use of selling to consumers without a license because of State laws on pesticides.
What can consumers do in order to get pesticides like Termidor SC and Tauras SC if there's "restricted use"?
Also, what brand of granules do you recommend for possible termites and carpenter ants?
Thanks.
Rotten wood does not necessarily mean termites. It could also be something like dry rot. You need to dig into the wood with a flathead screwdriver to see if there is anything alive in there. If there is, then try to get a specimen with a red head for identification.
Domyown.com will ship most products to most states. NY is a big exception. They have banned just about everything. So, you need to go out of state to buy pesticides and bring them back. Some states have just banned certain products and there are substitute products that can be used. If you cannot get fipronil, then you can try a product that uses imidacloprid.
I will give you a link to the correct granules for termites and a link to the video on how to use them. Please be sure to read the description because it contains important information. The granules do not work for carpenter ants. I will give you a link to the video on how to treat them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
BioAdvanced Termite Killer 700350A granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to use termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to treat carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video for the consumers.
Thank you so much. Grealy appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you so much for the information Mr...Guy's solution.
I'm going to do it myself.
Already Subscribed your channel.
You are very welcome. Thank you for subscribing. Be well my friend.
Omg!!!! That’s why my building continues having cockroach problems! I’ve had to prep for cockroach treatment a few times last year because they said my neighbours had them, and now I found one in my place!
I talked to my building maintenance guy and he said he found a cockroach a couple of weeks ago in the apartment above and adjacent to mine, but “they put out glue traps and didn’t see anything else, so it was fine”. UGH!
I’d love to see a video on what to do if you’re a tenant or condo owner in a building where others are not treating their cockroaches. If there are ways to protect ourselves and prevent roaches, just cut our losses, etc.
The fogging pushed them into my place. UGH. Im following the methods from your German Cockroach video; I’m even considering drilling into my rental walls to apply boric acid between the studs.
Thanks for your knowledge, as always.
Unfortunately, landlords do not appreciate it when tenants drill holes in the walls. Since there are going to be cockroaches breeding in the walls, and since you cannot drill holes in the walls, we know that the cockroaches are going to continue to enter your apartment. Also, since they are breeding in adjoining apartments, they will enter from those apartments as well. That means, it is virtually impossible to totally eliminate a German cockroach infestation from an individual apartment. However, you can greatly reduce the number of cockroaches that you see in your apartment by simply doing the phase two treatment on a continuous basis. That is to say, you do phase one to get that initial knockdown that you want and then you never stop doing phase two. Even though you cannot drill the holes in the wall, you can spray the Nibor-D on virtually every surface in the apartment that will not be damaged by water. I would spray it on all the walls, woodwork, doors, ceiling, tabletops, table legs, countertops that are not being directly used for food preparation, and so forth. I would also spray it on carpeting, under and on sides of furniture, and anywhere else that a cockroach can possibly place its foot. Then, make sure that you puff the boric acid dust into all cracks and crevices, under all baseboards, in and around all outlets and light switches, all pipe penetrations, under major appliances, inside cabinets, etc. In other words, the boric acid should be applied any place where it will not get disturbed by people, pets, or air currents. Anything that you cannot treat with the boric acid should be treated with the Nibor-D, unless it will be damaged by water. Obviously, you cannot get water into electronic equipment and appliances, but you can put some of the Nibor-D on a rag and just wipe it onto these surfaces. Then use a bait and the IGR disks as outlined in the video. If you do all of these things, then any cockroaches that do enter your apartment are going to die within 8 to 14 days. Even if a female drops an egg sack in your apartment, the nymphs that hatch from it will also die within 8 to 14 days, so you will not be able to get an active infestation inside your apartment. So, while you may see an occasional cockroach that comes in from another apartment, particularly when they fog other apartments, any cockroaches that enter are definitely going to die, if you do a thorough job with the boric acid and Nibor-D. Unfortunately, that is the best that you could hope for when it comes to apartment living. It is no different for townhomes and condominiums as well.
Thank you so much for your kind words and for watching the videos.
Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, I've been watching TH-cam videos for most of my life and yours are the first that I've ever "liked". This is also my first comment ever lol. Anyway, thank you for the great content.
That is so kind of you to say. Thank you so much for the comment and for clicking the like button. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, thank you very much for those informative video. I need your help. Maybe you have one but I haven't seen it yet. What can I spray or use inside the house to get rid off the flying termites?
Those flying termites you're seeing are what we call reproductives, or swarmers. They are kings and queens that are looking to start a new colony. You cannot simply spray for them inside the house. The first thing you need to do is figure out what species of termites you were looking at, because different species get treated differently. Please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It is not that difficult to do. Please get back to me after you watch the video and let me know which species you think you have. At that point, I can advise you how to proceed. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
hey wait! I didn't get the knowledge but I clicked the liked button XD thanks again for another great video Guy.
Thank you so much for that kind comment. I love it when people appreciate my somewhat unusual sense of humor. Be well my friend.
Great video guy 👍 keep em coming!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.
I agree with the last commenter. Guy A. - the patron saint of homeonwers. 😀
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thanks for your great video! There have many clover mites on my patio and deck. I used dish soap and baking soda but it keeps coming back the next day. How can I get rid of them permanently and prevent them from coming back? Thanks!
The easiest way to get rid of these guys is to treat your yard every 60 to 90 days, this includes the patio and deck. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Also, be sure not to over fertilize your lawn. If you have a lot of clover mites, you may be using too much fertilizer. Before spraying ornamental plants, spray a little on some of the leaves and wait 7 days to see if there is any damage. If not, then you are good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard: th-cam.com/video/wifoTU5dmp0/w-d-xo.html
Question- what bug spray is good & not harmful for a sofa that roaches may have laid eggs in? My husband and I saw your video on the steps of getting rid of German cockroachs. Excellent video and very informative. My neighbor next door and those kids eat all over that house and now those nasty bugs are over here. But we're following your steps and it's working. Thank You!
Thank you so much for those kind words. It sounds like you have a pretty bad infestation, and the truth is, that what I explained in my video is the only way that you can get a handle on them. The trick is to be thorough. You need to make sure that you apply the Nibor-D and/or the boric acid every place a cockroach can possibly place its foot. Couches are a bit of a problem. How you treat a sofa is going to depend on how it is made. You certainly want to turn it over and treat the bottom and the legs with Nibor-D. If you have the back of the couch against a wall, then you should spray the back of the couch as well. If the couch has removable cushions, then take them off and spray Nibor-D under them. You can apply the Nibor-D everywhere accept where will come into direct contact with skin or food. This product will not cause any significant harm if you touch it, but some people find it to be a skin irritant. That's why I tell you not to spray it where you sit. However, if you are not in direct contact with it, then it is perfectly okay. So, it will not do any harm if it's underneath the cushions. Now, here is the thing you need to know about boric acid end Nibor-D. These are not actually pesticides because they do not kill roaches through chemical means and that is why they are not a poison do people. A lot of people do not realize that roaches are actually very clean, and they groom themselves all the time, much like cats do. The boric acid and the Nibor-D we'll get stuck to the roach’s feet when it walks through it and they hate having anything on their feet. So, they lick it off and ingest it. These materials will then cut holes in the roach’s stomach, and they will literally dehydrate to death. That is why roaches cannot become resistant to these materials the same way they do with pesticides. It's a slow kill to be sure, but very effective. The roaches that come out and then come in contact with it will die within a week. The problem is though that the roaches do not need to come out. These guys do not need food and water to survive. They can literally survive by eating each other and so they do not need to come out of their hiding places inside your sofa. There are some things you can do too flush them out though. You can get a can of Shockwave 1 Flushing Killing and Residual Aerosol. I will place a link below for you. This product contains what we call a flushing agent that is an irritant to the cockroaches, and they will immediately start pouring out of the couch as soon as you apply it. That is why you want to make sure that you place the couch in the middle of the room and make sure that the entire floor was sprayed with Nibor-D. This way, when the roaches start coming out, they will have no choice but to cross the Nibor-D and they will die several days later. I don't know how bad your couch is, but I have literally seen hundreds of them come out when a flushing agent like this is used. This product also contains pesticides that have residual properties, and it will go on killing roaches for about three months. So, this may not get rid of all the cockroaches in the couch, but it will probably get rid of over 90 something percent of them, if you do it correctly. The can comes with a very small applicator tip that can fit into just about any crack or crevice. Just turn the couch over and shoot short bursts of the product into any opening that is under the couch. Keep in mind that a little goes a long way and you don't want to use so much that it soaks through to the fabric where people will be touching it. When you are finished treating the bottom, you can turn the couch right side up again and remove the cushions to treat cracks and crevices that are under them. Use the product very sparingly and make sure the applicator tip is inserted fairly deep into the void you are treating. This product is safe after it has dried, but you do not want anybody in the room while you were using it. Also, you should wear protective equipment, like gloves, eye protection, and an N95 respirator. Even though it's safe after it dries, you do not want to be inhaling this stuff and it is a fog. Again, you may see a lot of cockroaches coming out of the couch after you apply this flushing agent, so be ready for it. Most people find this quite disturbing the first time they do it. If you have all your protective equipment on, and nobody else is in the room, then go ahead and spray this stuff on the roaches that are running away. You won't get them all, but you are going to hit many of them. The ones that you do not hit will cross the Nibor-D that you applied on the floor. Now, this is not going to kill the eggs, but this product has a residual that lasts for about 90 days and so those eggs should hatch within that period of time and the nymphs will most likely have to cross this pesticide. Also, any of them that come out will have no choice put the cross the Nibor-D that you applied on the sofa and the floor. As an added measure, I also recommend that you bait the bottom of the couch when you are all finished treating it and place a Gentrol IGR disc under the couch. Never spray on top of a bait or the cockroaches will not eat it. Always apply the bait last.
You mentioned neighbors, so keep in mind that if you live in an apartment and cannot drill the walls, then cockroaches will always be entering your apartment from adjoining apartments. There is nothing you can do to stop this, but if you puff boric acid under all the baseboards and then treat all the baseboards with Nibor-D, and you apply the boric acid and Nibor-D into all the pipe penetrations and every other places that are depicted in my video, then the cockroaches that enter your apartment will have no choice but to cross this material and they will die within a few days, before they can reproduce. So, if you do a really thorough job, then you may never see another cockroach again. That is because German cockroaches are really very shy, and they will quickly seek a hiding place when they enter your apartment and that is where they will die. It actually doesn't matter how filthy your neighbors might happen to be, if you do a thorough job, then cockroaches simply will not be able to survive in your apartment. It's pretty much that simple.
I hope that helps. Be well Stephanie.
Shockwave 1 Flushing Killing and Residual Aerosol: www.domyown.com/shockwave-flushing-killing-and-residual-aerosol-p-20792.html
@GuysPestSolutions wow thank you for such amazing information!!! I became your follower just a few days ago and I'm really studying all your videos. Ready to spray my entire apartment with Nibor-d, cleaning it thoroughly and also dust on certain areas with boric acid. Then, cherry on top do some bait dots. I hope this helps. I'm not severely infested but I'm seeing a few during DAY TIME so I took action. Wish me luck!
Thank you so much for the detailed videos. They are very helpful. I'm a new homeowner, and i think within a month I started to notice voles in my lawn. Could you please suggest how can I get exterminate voles from my lawn.
If you get this, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I did respond to this question, but it looks like TH-cam deleted it. They do that sometimes and I don’t know why. So sorry. Just copy your original comment and past it into the email. Also, please give me your TH-cam name. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions Thanks, Guy for the follow-up, I did send you an email. I did change the subject. Let me resend again.
@@sutharshani Okay. Thanks. I think I did respond to it. It was probably the first email you sent. You are the only one asking about voles. I get about 60 emails a day right now and 80% are termites, so I would remember voles. Lol. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your valuable advice. I have been able to use rat traps with great success. I have already trapped 4 voles on 4 consecutive days. So far I was able to get one active hole where I am seeing great success. I am placing another trap different places after couple of days and not seeing an activity over there. But I think there were two adults and 2 small voles I was able to trap them in 4 days. I will let you know how it goes but trick is working well so far. I am using peanut butter as bait to lure them to traps.
Thanks again @Guy for what you doing to help us with understanding how thing works well when done right. DIY is better approach if done right way and get right advice. Thank you..thank you so much.
@@sutharshani You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Great video thanks!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for giving us ton of info.. I bought an old house and wanted to spray inside my house(dont have any termites/roach problem though).. do you recommend any product to spray inside house? I heard most of these sprays leaves some white marks and i dont want that to happen inside house
Here's the thing about the vast majority of bugs… They do not get into your house because they were placed there by the hand with God and they weren't beamed in by Scotty on the Enterprise. They got in from the outside of your house. So, if you want a pest free house, the best way to do it is to treat from the outside. If the bugs have to cross a pesticide barrier in order to get in, then they will die before they can become a nuisance. If you treat the outside of the house, the only pest you will have inside the house are the ones that you either bring in with you or that fly in, like moths or flies. Any bug that cannot fly will not be able to survive the pesticide barrier. I will give you a link to my video on how to do it a proper exterior treatment. In the video I recommend two products, but I wasn't exactly clear on the best way to use them, so let me clear that up. You should do an initial treatment with Taurus SC, then all follow up treatments should be done with Talstar P. If you want to save some money, then you can use Bifen IT instead of Talstar P. It's the same product, except it's a bit cheaper and it has a slight odor to it. Also, the sprayers that I recommend in the video I no longer available, so I will give you a link to a sprayer that will serve you very well.
Please let me know if you have a specific pest inside the house and I will tell you how to treat for it. Different pests that are already in the house must be treated differently. It is not a good idea to just start spraying pesticides around. That can make some problems even worse, so you need to treat correctly for the target pest in question.
Please let me know if Solutions Pest and Lawn will not ship to your state and I will give you another supplier.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: th-cam.com/video/3ESGJsn3MLk/w-d-xo.html
Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide
Taurus SC: www.solutionsstores.com/taurus-sc-termiticide
Sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3MKYWD/?coliid=I1WHD5A3RF25H9&colid=3VDXA5DFBKQ98&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Liked and subscribed! One thing you may have missed is frequency of service. Would a pest control company rather sign you up for $60 a month or $95 bimonthly? They recommend bimonthly to give you impression they are saving you money. But if they can sign up all their customers for bimonthly then they are making $95 a pop rather than $60. But what is best interest of customer? Do the outside sprays really last two months with the sun and/or rain?
Pest control treatment plans vary greatly from company to company and also by where you live. Prices also vary depending upon the specific treatment that is being done. If you are talking about exterior pest control, then it is unusual to find a pest control company that will treat every month. They may bill you every month, but most of the time they are only going to treat once every 90 days. We know that, in certain areas of the country, treating every 90 days is not enough . So, you may find a company that will treat every 60 days. Naturally, you are going to pay more if they treat every 60 days then if they treat every 90 days. People are telling me that prices are all over the place with this today. If you find a company that treats every 90 days, but they charge $60 a month, that is actually pretty cheap today. That means they are coming out for $180 per treatment. I have seen that as high as $300. If you find a company that will treat every 60 days for $95, then they are giving you the service. Buyer beware though. Most of the time, you get what you pay for. You always need to ask exactly what you are getting with each treatment. If you are getting a treatment for $95, then most likely all they are going to do is just treat around the foundation of the house, and maybe around the windows and doors. It is highly unlikely that it will include a lawn treatment. These are the folks that will be in and out in about 20 minutes. This type of treatment will help to keep the bugs out of your house, but what you really want is the lawn to be treated as well. Also, most pest control companies will not treat the eaves, because they do not want to spray pesticides above their heads. So, if you live in an area where drywood termites or a problem, then this treatment will do nothing to prevent them. So, you simply can't go by price alone. If you're hiring a pest control company, you need to ask a lot of questions. You also want to know what products they will be applying and exactly where they will be applying them. Most pesticides will last up to 90 days in the sun and rain, but the last 30 days will not be as effective as the first 30 days. So, I treat every 60 days. Some pesticides only last 30 days, so it's important to know what products are being applied and in what concentration.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I had cockroaches really bad outside my house a few years ago. I only saw one inside. I used diotonaciuos earth which helped a bit. Then a family of garter snakes moved in under my patio slab. Poof! No more cockroaches. The snakes left shortly after that. Have hardly seen a roach in years now. The only time the snakes bothered me was when they surprised me hiding under a pot.
Nothing like natural pest control. I don't like snakes much though. Not even the safe ones. So, I treated the entire yard to get rid of all the bugs and the snakes move to greener pastures. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
Thanks Guy :) Very helpful video
Thanks for watching and for that very nice comment. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.
thank you in advance from South Africa Johannesburg
You are very welcome. My pharmacist is from South Africa. He shares a lot of stories with me. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your many informative videos. After some rain intrusion, I opened my wall and want to treat for mold, but also for termites. Can I use Bora Care Mold as well as Bora-Care (PRO-BORACAE4x1)? And if so, which should I apply first? I also plan to apply BioAdvanced Termite Killer to the soil outside.
You don't need to use both products. If you apply Bora-Care with Mold Care that will prevent the termites and mold at the same time.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider another option.
Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25.
Let me know if you have an active infestation of termites and I will guide you further.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit
Video on how to apply termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to make monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for your reply. Since I sent my first message, I decided instead to go with Taurus SC trench method. As for the interior wall, I do think I have an active infestation, thus my question about applying both the Bora-Care Mold as well as the Bora-Care Termiticide. I am anxious to get the walls drywalled by up, so I can get the kids back in the room, but I think I read I should trench outside first. If so, how long should I wait to apply the Bora-Care to the studs?
@@CarlosLopez-qy3hc If you have the walls open, then I would use the Bora-Care with Mold Care first before trenching. The reasons for that is because it is way faster to do, it goes to work immediately to treat the infestation, and it allows you to get the room back in service sooner. So, if it were me, I would treat the walls right now. After the walls are treated, I would start trenching on the outside wall that is closest to the infestation. After that, I would go ahead and trench the rest of the house. Please watch my video on how to trench properly. I will give you the link.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to trench properly: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html
We just found termites in our mulch in the flower bed yesterday. They are also in the ground. It’s in front of our house and we removed every bit of the mulch and took to the pasture into the burn pile. Haven’t burned because it’s still raining. Did we mess up by digging out all of the mulch? I ordered the pesticide you recommended even though I called our pest control company first thing this morning. I don’t trust them to take care of this issue correctly or even if they will show up before June or July. What should we do before mulching again? Treat mulch before putting it down? I’m panicking because I do not want termites in my house. No tunnels and we are on a concrete slab and can see every bit of our concrete.
Finding termites in or near your house is a very scary thing. So, it is only natural to have a little bit of a knee jerk reaction when you see that sort of thing. The truth is I would have preferred for you to leave the mulch in place because we could have used it to poison the termites, and it is always best to let them go on eating something other than your house. You see, you have subterranean termites, and these guys are not living in your mulch. They are living in the ground someplace within a 300 foot radius of that mulch. Since you took away their food supply, they are going to look for another one, which could be your house. Do not beat yourself up about it though, because it's the sort of thing that I think most people would do, because they do not understand have termites work. The good news is that you are not seeing any mud tubes around the house, and now you know that they are in the area, so you can protect yourself. So let's talk about that.
I am happy to hear that you have not burned the mulch yet. I recommend that you go check that mulch to see if the termites are still there and if they are still alive. If they are still there and seem to be alive and well, then you can use that mulch against them. It is possible that they found their way back to the colony, so you may be able to poison them with that mulch. I think the best way to do that would be to buy Taurus SC and mix it at 0.8 ounces per gallon of water, in a pump up the garden sprayer or even a watering can. Then just soak that mulch with it. You may want to rake the mulch around a bit as you are soaking it, so that you get as much of the mulch treated as possible. If at all possible, you want to treat it all the way down to the dirt below. After you do that, just leave them alone for the next 12 to 16 weeks. Taurus SC this is a slow kill pesticide that will give them enough time to bring the contaminated food back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If these guys found their way back to the colony, which is certainly a big if, then just poisoning the mulch may take out the entire colony. Since we cannot hang our hat on that being the case, you also need to protect the house.
There are two options for treating or preventing subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. I have videos on how to do both options and I will place links below.
For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them.
After you use one of these methods, you may want to consider installing monitoring stations around the house. This is not necessary, but it is very easy to do, and you will know immediately if you have termites in the area. If one of the stations goes off, then you can treat the termites right at the station, before they try to attack your house. This way, you are protected by either the granules or the trenching, and you have the peace of mind knowing that there are no termites in the area. You can make these stations yourself out of used water bottles for about 50 cents each. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. These stations have a little orange dot on the top of them. When the dock disappears you either have termites or the station has malfunctioned. Either way, you can check to see if there are active termites, and if there are, then you can treat them right there. Now, let's face it, we are making these things out of used water bottles, so it is possible that one of orange indicators can move to the side and disappear, even though there are no termites. That's not really a big deal though because these things are very fast and easy to make and install. So, just keep a few on hand should you need to replace one. After they are installed, just walk around the house every couple of months to see if there are orange dots missing. It couldn't be easier.
After you replace the mulch, it wouldn't hurt to treat it with the granules every year as a preventive measure.
So, you can relax. You can fix this whole thing for less than $150 if you trench and less than $100 if you use the granules, and that includes the monitoring stations. The best part is that is way easier than all the work you already did removing the mulch.
I hope that helps. Be well Kathy.
Video on how to apply termite granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: th-cam.com/video/Fy7YHi_7Z8g/w-d-xo.html
Video and how to make termite monitoring stations: th-cam.com/video/gye27aXHRsY/w-d-xo.html
Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_7&=&crid=3U417V90YK4UP&=&sprefix=termite
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for all the info!! I had watched the water bottle video last night and already told my husband that we are doing that too. I have the liquid for trenching and the granules already ordered. Did that yesterday as I watched your videos. Again ~ thanks so much!
My Taurus SC looks to be delayed in shipping but supposed to get my granules tomorrow. Since I know we have active termites in the dirt ~ what should I do first?
@@Southern195 You are very welcome. I know you will do a great job. Be well Kathy.
@@Southern195 If you are going to treat around the house with the granules instead of trenching, then you can go ahead and do that. Just use the granules the way you were planning, and then use the Taurus SC in the other areas when it arrives. You can also use the granules to treat the area were you removed the mulch before you replace the mulch. Be well Kathy.
I live in Phoenix, AZ, next to a mountain where the earth around my home is clay and caliche (rock). the local DIY pest control store said to dig a trench 4-8" below the surface to pour the Taurus SC. The clay is so hard I was having a hard time digging in soil I buried irrigation years ago. It's going to take me a lot of time to dig a trench so your method of granules sounds great but I don't think it'll sink into the earth too far if I go that route. I think it'll all be run off next time it rains (not that often, but still). Also, I'm doing this as a preventative treatment as I saw some termites outside of my house underneath some termites that were underneath a cardboard box about 10" next to my house. They have since unfortunately scattered ( I was hoping to get them to eat the Taurus SC while I knew where they were) and I dug a 4" or so trench in the area and put Taurus SC. When you speak of Taurus SC not working for Formosan termites, do you mean if you already have an infestation, not as a preventative or will it still not work with Formosan termites because they don't die until much later after walking on the Taurus SC? Lastly, since it will take me months to dig a trench, should I spray some Taurus SC on the ground/house for now or just keep looking for tubes in the meantime? thx so much!
It appears that you have a somewhat difficult situation to treat. The termite granules are not going to work in your case. For the termite granules to work the soil needs to be porous enough to allow water to leach into it. That does not seem to be the case here. Taurus SC does work for Formosan termites, but it must be applied in a trench. That is the case for all species of subterranean termites. If digging a trench is not an option for you, then we need to get a bit more creative. It sounds like you do have termites in the area, but it is unclear if you have them in the house already. Either way, I think we need to go after those termites. First though, I would like you to inspect the house for termites. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. My recommendations are going to be different if you have an existing infestation in the home. Treating this yourself is going to require some unconventional methods. These are not the sorts of things that I want people to do on a routine basis, so I would prefer not to make those suggestions where the entire world can see them. What I am going to suggest is going to be perfectly safe, but it falls in the category of throwing a Hail Mary Pass. I have had a lot of success doing this sort of thing in cases like yours, but this should not be the first line of defense for people who do have the option of using the granules or trenching. Therefore, I would like you to send me an email, and I will provide as much assistance as possible. Please write "Case number 090720241" in the subject line. I am creating a file on you, so that you do not need to explain everything to me all over again.
I hope that helps. Be well Kim.
Video on how to inspect for termites: th-cam.com/video/oGyAVT7Zyro/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks so much! I can't locate your email so that I can send you an email. How can I access your email address?
@@kimromen1304 Sorry. My email is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. It is in the description of all my videos. I usually include it with my responses, but I was just going too fast. Totally my fault. Be well Kim.
@@GuysPestSolutions You're such a nice person. No worries. I looked in the description but mustn't have looked well enough. I'll email you right now. I was just thinking I could dig a ditch easier if I used high pressure water. It'd still be a somewhat long process as I'd have to wait for the h20 to soak up before digging any more but I've used that process to dig holes for trees with success. I'll email you nonetheless. There will be many tricky areas in my yard. thx!
@@kimromen1304 Thanks. I responded to your email yesterday. Be well Kim.
I've just sprayed into the holes drilled into the cement blocks in the crawlspace with Surrender Brand termite killer which contains Bifenthrin. This is for prevention..
I haven't dug a trench along the slab for garage yet. So tell me did I waste my time using this product. If so I can redo with Tarus SC. I did have to have wood replaced in the garage wall last yr due to termite damage.
Thank you for your direction and I so appreciate your videos
3:56
I'm sorry for the delay. I had to be away for the last 3 days and I was not able to answer any questions. You did not waste your time, but using Taurus SC would have been a much better way to go. That's fine though because treating the cement blocks is not a very effective way to prevent or treat termites anyway. Please tell me where you live because location matters because species matters and they vary from place to place. Most of the time we need to treat the ground, but oftentimes we can do it for about $50 and an hours work. It's very easy. First though, let's make sure that we rule out anything that may be more problematic. Since I have been gone for 3 days, my questions are really backed up, so please allow a couple of days for me to catch up. I have about 300 unanswered questions right now and I am working through them as fast as possible. I will get back to you for sure after you tell me where you tell me where you live. I promise. Be well my friend.
You would not believe how much trouble I got into by making the statement 'only female mosquito's bite'
I was teaching at a trade school, one of the students was complaining about 'mozzy's' and I was talking to him about it.
a feminist in the class really didn't like knowing the truth and complained to managers.
OK, it was a motorcycle school but in Florida there are so many lakes and ponds mosquito's are a nuisance and can transmit disease. (we have a small lake across street from house, maybe 200 yards across)
I guess we don't have termites because the carpenter ants eat them. Local power company sends out 'tree trimmers' to keep stuff away from power lines but the guys
a. don't speak English ( I know because many times over last 20 years I have tried to ask if they were qualified)
b. are not qualified arborist's and just kill off well established trees (which is how carpenter ants took over next to my garden shed,and then on/in the shed
Hey, the truth is the truth. Only female mosquitoes bite. You can greatly reduce the population if you watch my video on the subject. I will give you a link. Be well my friend.
th-cam.com/video/DIoCHo96LJc/w-d-xo.html
Sure anyone can spray pesticides ,however you absolutely have to know what your doing.
Contrary to what people might think, you cant just spray a little spray and except to solve problems..
That is true. Most people fail because they do not apply products correctly. This is why I take a lot of time in my videos to show folks exactly how to do things right. A lot of folks just want to watch a five-minute video and then think they can take care of a problem themselves. I cannot provide 40 years of training and experience in five minutes. My videos are just for those who want to take the time to learn how to do it right and get the same or better results than the pros. Also, you should know that I am not anti-pro. I am all for folks hiring a pro if they can afford it. It's the same for fixing your car, mowing your lawn, cleaning your house, fixing your plumbing, and so forth. Why bother with it if you can afford to hire a pro? However, not everybody has the money these days, so there are those who have no choice but to do it themselves. Those are primarily the folks are want for my audience. I was not expecting it, but I am now getting more and more pest controllers coming to me for advice as well. I am getting a lot of interest from the pros about how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. You can make a fortune if you learn how to do it right. Once you have the treatment system down, you can literally just do German roaches and you won't be able to keep up with the work. Not homes so much. Mostly businesses like restaurants and motels, but you can also land a hospital as well. If you really do totally eliminate a German cockroach infestation in a restaurant, word will get around and folks will beat a path to your door. If you want tips on how to handle business accounts, just let me know.
Be well my friend.
Enjoyed your videos very much! But do you think the product will kill the geckos and frogs?
It is not going to kill the lizards or frogs, but they still may go away. If you treat your yard, then you are disrupting the food chain. Lizards and frogs eat bugs. No bugs, no food. So, the lizards and frogs may go elsewhere in search of food. Since snakes eat lizards and frogs, you may see less of them as well. You know... The whole circle of life sort of thing. I live in Florida and I see a lot less lizards and frogs now. I used to see a lot of snakes, but I have not seen one now for a couple of years. Of course, I also don't see any American roaches, mosquitoes, spiders, wasps, and a whole bunch of other pests as well. So, I guess that's just kind of how it works. I hope that answers your question. Be well Gina.
I spray for a pest company every day. I can assure you the only danger they face is running away from me while spraying.
AND YOU MUST BE FROM NEW YORK. LISTENING TO YOU MAKES ME SO 😔
Well, born in Brooklyn and raised mostly in NJ. So, you are pretty much spot on. Well done. Be well Helen.
I went ahead and hit the like
Thank you so much. Very much appreciated. Be well Liza.
Great video sir do you have a video on carpenter ants how to get rid of them
Yes I do. I will give you a link to it below.
Be well my friend.
Carpenter ant video: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
Hi Guy. Great videos. I’ve been watching the termite ones. Great info.. Thank you. I live in NC at the SC/NC boarder. Is there a “season” for termites? The reason I ask is that we’ve had mud tubes as well as “saw dust” evidence. We’ve had a popular pest control company come out and they put bait stakes around the exterior and they said they’re preventative. They’ve been in for 5-6 months and was just wondering if you think they’re working or if we haven’t arrived to another “season” yet. Thanks
Let me just venture a guess here. The termite company most likely sold you a Sentricon system. This is essentially a baiting system, and it works pretty well for subterranean termites. The only real problem with it is that it is very expensive. Customers like it because there is a very low-cost up-front payment. The problem is though that you must make monthly or annual payments that literally go on forever. If you cancel the contract, then the bait stations come out, because you don't own them. You are just kind of renting them. So, over time, this system ends up costing you a lot more than if you would have just trenched the house. To add insult to injury, there was a 95% chance that you could have just treated this with termite granules for about $50, and that wouldn't require any trenching or baiting stations at all. You probably signed a contract for one to two years. My recommendation would be to cancel the contract at the earliest possible time, and then simply apply the granules annually. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. If you would like to know if the baiting system worked, then just break open the mud tubes and have a look inside. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube and look to see if there is any activity. If you do not see any termites in any of the mud tubes, then the infestation is probably dead. Just to be sure, check those mud tubes again in a few days to see if they were rebuilt. If that 2-inch section was rebuilt, then you still have an infestation. If this is the case, you should call the termite company and tell them that they have not fixed the problem. If they want additional money from you, then I would not pay it, unless you are bound by the contract. They may tell you that the bait stations didn't work, and they now need to trench. If it were me, I would want all my money back, and I would send them packing. Of course, you need to read the contract because they will sometimes have language in there stating that the baiting system may not work, and you need to pay additional money if that should occur. So, regardless of whether you have termites or not, I recommend that you read that contract, and bail out just as soon as possible. I promise that you do not need them to deal with this problem.
Something else that you said does concern me just a little bit. You indicated that you are seeing sawdust. Most likely that was from the subterranean termites, but most of the time you don't see that sort of thing out in the open with them. Therefore, due diligence requires me to ask another couple of questions. You indicated that you live on the border of North Carolina and South Carolina, but I need to know how close to the coast you are. If you wouldn't mind, it would be helpful to know the city or town that you live in. There are places in North Carolina where there are a couple of different species that behave differently than the ones you are being treated for. Most likely, the pest control company got it right, and this is nothing to worry about. Still, I have seen them screw it up more than I would like to say. My other question is, where are you seeing this sawdust? Are you seeing it out in the open? Also, is this sawdust spread around or is it a pile that is wider on the bottom than it is on the top? Is this sawdust more like a very fine powder, or does it look more like little pellets? I would also like to know if you are seeing any fairly large ants. Look near the walls where you are seeing the sawdust to see if you can find any dead ones. Hopefully, you're not seeing any of those guys. This is probably nothing, but I would be a really terrible pest controller if I didn't ask these questions.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat subterranean termites with granules: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions
Thank you so much for all of that info. I live in charlotte, about southern center of the state. The dust i saw was exterior and interior. Looked more like granules than pellets, it is a pile with a wide base, rather than spread around. I have seen big ants. Kind of orange/light red. Thank you again. And i’m kind of afraid of what you’re about to tell me about the ants
@@marcedwards7110 Please keep in mind that I am not actually there to inspect, but just based on what you are telling me, I think there is a very high probability that you have carpenter ants. I'll bet that's what you were afraid I was going to say. This is not all that unusual if you have termites. Carpenter ants like to feed on termites. Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not eat wood. They just kind of tunnel through it, and that leaves that sawdust material behind. Carpenter ants are also kind of lazy. That is why, most of the time, they will establish their colonies in soft, wet wood because it is very easy for them to excavate. The really neat thing about termites for them, is not only are they a tasty food source, but they have already done most of the excavation for the carpenter ants. It's a pretty nice deal for the carpenter ants. Instead of paying the workers who build your house, you just eat them instead.
Even though carpenter ants do not eat wood, they do tunnel through it, and they are capable of doing quite a bit of damage. Therefore, you need to send these guys packing. Actually, they are pretty much all women, but that's a whole other story. What you need to know about them though is that the main colony is most likely located outside of the house somewhere. Probably in a dead tree stump or something like that. The chances are that you have a satellite colony in your house. You may even have more than one. So, you need to treat for them. Unfortunately, the treatment for carpenter ants is much different than the treatment for termites. That is why the termite treatment did not affect the carpenter ants. Since you most likely have at least one satellite colony in the house and the main colony is outside somewhere, then you have to take a two-pronged approach. Not only do you need to treat the inside of the house to kill off those satellite colonies, but you also need to do preventive treatments on the outside of your house to stop new ants from coming in. I have a video on how to do this and I will place a link below for you. Now, if you would like to hear some special tips and tricks, known only to a select few pest controllers, then send me an e-mail. My address is guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I get a lot of e-mail, so please remind me who you are when you write, and remind me that the issue was carpenter ants, and that you already treated for termites, using the Sentricon system. It's interesting that just about 99% of the people who write to me are seeking help with either termites or German cockroaches. I receive so much mail about termites that it's hard to keep everybody straight sometimes. Knock on wood. So far at least, I have not gotten anybody mixed up, but I can definitely see me doing that. Lol.
I hope that helps. He will my friend.
Video on how to treat for carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
Guy, Which of your videos is most relevant for dealing with carpet beetles? (found one or two, and didnt find any damage , so not a major problem... yet... but would love to make a preemptive strike!)
It is the larvae that does the damage, so you may see the problem emerge soon. Unfortunately, I do not have a video for carpet beetles. However, Solutions Pest and Lawn has a very good one, so there is no need for me to reinvent the wheel. Just follow their recommendations and that will end the infestation inside. Keep in mind that these guys are getting in from the outside, so I also recommend an exterior treatment every 90 days. The fastest and easiest way to do that is to watch my video on treating your yard with a hose end sprayer. In addition to treating your yard, shoot some of the Bifen XTS around windows, doors, and any penetrations that may exist on the exterior of the house. I also shoot it on the fascia boards and soffits as well to stop a variety of other pests. The hose end sprayer shoots a lot of pesticide, so you can also treat the house with a garden sprayer. It takes a lot longer, but it saves a lot of pesticide and is more consistent with label directions. If you do the outside treatment every 90 days, then you should not get reinfested. I hope that helps.
Solutions Pest & Lawn Video: th-cam.com/video/JBnhW3G_RtQ/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: th-cam.com/video/wifoTU5dmp0/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions I actually just treated my exterior using the method I learned from you for subterranean termites.. I used the stuff you provided in the link. Will that work for the carpet beetles too?
@@baruchschwartz819 Are you talking about the termite granules? If so, that will not work for carpet beetles. You need to use something like Bifen XTS. Termites work differently. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Colony collapse disorder is actually decreasing and has been for years (bee population not decreasing)
It was linked to agricultural usage of neonicotinoids, a class of chems which weren't in common use by exterminators.
Also, sick and poisoned bees self quarantine.
You are correct. You will find most of the bees in farming and the farmers used neonicotinoids. We do use them in treating homes, but mostly for termite control and the material is buried and used around the perimeter of the house, where there are no bees. So, yeah, homeowners are not killing bees with pesticides. At least, not enough to make a difference. Still, it's a great excuse to ban homeowners from buying pesticides. Thanks for the comment. Be well my friend.
hello Guy, can you do a video or just tell us how to get rid of chiggers in a yard? They love me for some reason. Thanks, you are doing a great service.
I will put chiggers on my list of videos to do. Meanwhile, here is how you do it.
To treat for chiggers, all you need to do is a basic lawn treatment. What I would do is use a basic garden hose sprayer to apply by Bifen IT. I will provide you with a link for the sprayer that I use and the Bifen IT.
It is important to dilute the Bifen IT. Put 8 oz of Bifen IT in the sprayer and then fill to the 32 oz mark with water. Mix it periodically as you add the water by swirling it around. Set the sprayer to 4 oz per gallon. The label says to mix it 1 oz per gallon, but that is before you diluted it. Since you cut it with water in the sprayer, you need to apply it at 4 oz per gallon. Make sure that the siphon hose is securely set into the sprayer because you don't want to be spraying plain water. I cannot tell you how many times I have done that. Anyway, just attach the sprayer to a common garden hose and spray your entire yard with it. I mean everything. Start from the sides of your house and treat all the way to the property lines around your entire property. Be sure to treat all ornamental plants. Chiggers usually do not enter homes, but it can happen. To prevent this, simply spray up the about two feet around the entire house and also spray around all windows, doors, and pipe penetrations as well. The Bifen IT can last up to 90 days, but just go ahead and retreat when you start to notice the problem happening again.
Always wear protective equipment like gloves and goggles and take a shower after you are finished.
Pro tips: Purchase 100 feet of those super hoses you see on TV all the time. They make it super-fast and easy. I will give you a link for one. Also, put a quick connect fitting on the sprayer and the hose. This makes it super-fast to take off the sprayer to refill it. The hose I am suggesting has a shut-off valve on it, but if you use a different hose, then buy a shut off valve for the end of the hose. Do not store the hose outside because they break down easily in sunlight.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bifen IT Insecticide: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide
Amazon.com: www.amazon.com/Chapin-International-G499-Adjustable-Sprayer/dp/B00UER1S64/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3EPZLI8DS37VB&keywords=RE+Chapin+MFG+Works+G499+Adjustable+Rate+Dial+Hose+End+Sprayer%2C+32+OZ+%3A+Patio%2C+Lawn+%26+Garden&qid=1657319512&sprefix=re+chapin+mfg+works+g499+adjustable+rate+dial+hose+end+sprayer%2C+32+oz+patio%2C+lawn+%26+garden%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-2
Expandable Garden Hose 100FT: www.amazon.com/Knoikos-Expandable-Garden-Hose-100ft/dp/B082TX2R46/ref=sr_1_1?crid=M2VD2JRHOL1Z&keywords=Expandable+Garden+Hose+100FT+-+Upgraded+Water+Hose+Self-Locking+Leakproof+With+10+Function+Spray+Nozzle+and+Durable+3-Layers+Latex%2C+3%2F4%22+Solid+Brass%2C+Kink-Free+Hose+for+Watering+and+Washing+%3A+Patio%2C+Lawn+%26+Garden&qid=1657319576&sprefix=expandable+garden+hose+100ft+-+upgraded+water+hose+self-locking+leakproof+with+10+function+spray+nozzle+and+durable+3-layers+latex%2C+3%2F4+solid+brass%2C+kink-free+hose+for+watering+and+washing+patio%2C+lawn+%26+garden%2Caps%2C290&sr=8-1
Quick Release Fittings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9VG39H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shut-off Valve: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZYGVFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks Guy! You are the best.
@@jeffdeinlein113 Always my pleasure. Be well my friend.
Hey Guy another great video with so much knowledge. Thanks I sent you a email I have a question about indoor maintenance spraying. Thanks my friend
Okay. I am running a bit behind. My wife made me take a day off and I am getting flooded with questions. It's 11:40 pm and I do need to get some sleep. I promise that I will get your questions answered in full tomorrow sometime. My wife wants me to take tomorrow off too, but I will find the time. Your question is important to me and I will not forget about you. Let me know if you don't hear from me tomorrow. That means I am either dead or I didn't get your email. That does happen sometimes. I mean not getting the email. Hopefully not the dead part. Lol.
Be well my friend.
I took a look first thing this morning and I either did not receive the email or I answered it and did not know it was you. Did you send the question to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com? If you did not receive an answer, then please send it again and check to be sure you entered the address correctly. Also, please make sure that I know you are GasMan75. You can't imagine how many emails I receive every day. I sometimes have a hard time keeping it straight who is who because the questions are often very similar and I get a lot of them. I definitely want to make sure that I get your questions answered in a timely manner.
Be well my friend.
I'm in New Orleans. My dad's shed, now mine has bad termite damage. I just found a nest, the thick table leg that was against the wall. Even the 4x6's are soft, on the ceiling. No sheet rock, all 2x4's or 4×6's. Will the termites die if they are already up 8' up the wall?? I have been spraying when I see them. Thanks for the information. I will do that soon. So easy and so cheap!!! Thanks
You may be looking at Formosan termites. I recommend that you watch my video on how to identify termite species. It's not that hard to do. If these are Formosan termites, then you need to watch my video on how to eliminate Formosan termites. These guys are very destructive and they get treated somewhat differently than other termites. Also, if they are in the sheds, then they may be in your houses as well. You should do a thorough inspection of your homes for mud tubes. Look around the perimeter of the house, under the house if you have a crawlspace, in the eaves, and in the attic. Do not attempt to treat termites with pesticides from the big box stores. These products will most likely make the problem worse. You may think that you killed the termites, but all you did was make them move to a new area of the shed or move to your house. You will not kill the colony this way, so they will just move to a new food source.
I hope that helps. Be well Bonnie.
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to eliminate Formosan termites: th-cam.com/video/xDtGUWxMrRw/w-d-xo.html
Mr. Guy, I do not have roaches anymore but I found myself ENJOYING this!? Perhaps I’m weird lol but it was great fun fighting German Roaches. I haven’t gone into phase 2 yet (I watched that full video) but my friends are coming this weekend to work on the walls with the specific chemical you recommend for that (Using discretion as to not undermine the work you did on that video) how do I start doing g this professionally in VA?! It’s a blast!!
If you want to become a pest controller, there is a fortune to be made in German roaches because nobody knows how to do this. It's crazy, but true. To get into the business you need a license. Each state has its own requirements. Here in Florida, you must work for a licensed pest controller for at least 2 years and then take a test. In some states it's only one year, and I'll bet that some states just want you to take a test. You need to look up the requirements for your state. I think states are getting stricter on it because so many pest controllers are incompetent. You would not believe the number of complaints I get every year about pest controllers that screw up. So, more and more they want you to gain some experience before going out on your own. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@ wow, thank you for the detailed reply. I will say, the heat probably makes this job difficult
You are very welcome. It can be hard in the summer doing this work sometimes. Be well my friend.
Thanks!
Thank you so much. That is so thoughtful of you. I will definitely use it to make more videos. Never expected or required, but always very much appreciated. You are the best. Be well Sam.
Hi Guy! My wife and I just bought a single-story, brick, 1,200 sqft home built in 2014 in Charlotte, North Carolina. I’ve seen one dead cockroach in the crawlspace (it’s encapsulated), one big one (German) in the kitchen floor (I killed it), and one small one coming from behind the TV hung on the living room wall at night. All within the past week.
Prior to that, I saw 3 carpenter ants (two in kitchen, one in bathroom) over a span of 2 weeks, but then, we got a dehumidifier for the crawl space and I haven’t seen any more carpenter ants.
Question for you. I am debating whether to hire “Carolina Pest Control Services”, doing it myself through a company called “Pestie”, or trying to apply all the DIY methods I see on TH-cam and doing it all myself. What would you recommend I do? Also, have you heard of that company called “Pestie”? They send you your pest control liquids based on your Zip Code.
Last question, do you think I have a cockroach infestation?
I am so sorry that you are having these issues. Let me see if I can be of assistance.
I am very familiar with Pestie. While they do send you legitimate pesticides, they generally do not send you anywhere near enough to get the job done, and most of the time, they're telling you to apply these materials in a manner that will not achieve the results you need. If that isn't bad enough, they overcharge you for the products as well. So, my recommendation would be to stay away from them.
Carpenter ants like wet wood and so the dehumidifier may have helped the situation somewhat, but if you already have an infestation, that is not going to get rid of it. In most cases, carpenter ants inside your home are a satellite colony and the main colony is outside someplace. These things do not eat wood the way termites do. They just tunnel through it. Still, they can do plenty of damage and you need to get rid of them. Please watch my video to find how to treat for carpenter ants. I will place a link below. This is something you can do yourself for a lot less money and the pros are going to charge. Since the main column is located outside, then the only way to keep them out, after you kill off the satellite colony, is to do an exterior treatment of the house every three months. Pest controllers can soak you as much as $85 a month for this service, but you can do it for under $10 a month, and the treatment you do will be far superior.
Now, let's talk about the cockroaches. The first thing you want to do is make sure that these are actually German cockroaches. If they are, then you have a very serious problem, and I can tell you, without a shadow of a doubt, that there are no press control companies that know how to get rid of them. I know that sounds hard to believe, but it's the absolute truth. The only thing that they will do is to control the population, so that you don't notice them as much. That means they're going to want to return to do follow-up treatments that will be as often as every week to every month, depending upon how badly they want to rip you off. The follow-up treatments will literally never end. However, I do know a way that will allow you to treat this yourself and totally eliminate the problem. It is not easy, but it can be done. Before you take up this challenge though, you need to be absolutely certain that you do have German cockroaches. Virtually all other species of cockroaches far easier to treat. Please watch the beginning of my German cockroach video. This is a long video, but just skip to about 23 minutes into the video and I explain how to identify and inspect for German roaches. If you have them, then this is the only video on the Internet that will show you how to totally eliminate them. I know it's a long video, but you need to watch the entire thing if you wish to get rid of those roaches. In fact, you should watch it several times because you must do this exactly right or it will fail. If it turns out that these are not German roaches, then please get back to me and I will help you identify correct species, and I will show you how to get rid of them. It would be wonderful if you could catch one alive and put it in a jar and let it die a natural death. This will make identification much easier.
The bottom line is that these are issues that you can take care of yourself for a fraction of the cost that a professional is going to charge, and they don't even know how to deal with German cockroaches. Pestie has a great pitch and wonderful advertising, but they are a total waste of money. I can show you how to do everything for fraction of the cost and it will be far more effective than Pestie or even the professionals. All my advice is free, and I will show you where to buy the right pesticides for the lowest price in the industry. I do not accept compensation from any of the pesticide manufacturers or sellers. I only recommend products that I know are effective and I only recommend suppliers to have the lowest price and ship for free. If you are wondering why I do it, you are not alone. I get that question from my wife all the time. All I can tell you is that it's not about money with me. The reward is in the simple act of showing a kindness to someone else. I guess it's kind of the same reason why people volunteer to work for charities. Life has been very good to me over the years, and I think it's time for me to give something back. It's pretty much just that simple.
I hope you found this information helpful. Please feel free to ask all the questions you like. I am always here to help.
Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat for carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
Video on Germany cockroaches: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
So what is your take on Talstar P I’ve heard quite a bit however it’s worth every dime and lasts a loonnggg time especially if doing it for exterior home border!
Talstar P is a wonderful product. However, you can also buy Bifen IT instead. It's the exact same thing, except the Bifen has a slight odor to it, while the Talstar is odorless. The Bifen is a bit less expensive than the Talstar P. Since the Bifen has a slight odor to it, I only use it outside. The odor goes away after it dries. The Bifen IT is the most cost-effective pesticide you can buy. You can get it from solutionsstores.com, which is the cheapest supplier, but they do not ship to every state. If you can't get it from them, then try domyown.com. They ship to more places.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I’m curious/ confused about the reason for trenching to apply liquid termiticide for subterranean termites. If I was lazy or unable to trench could I not just apply to the edge of the building and possibly just reapply to make sure that it soaked in and penetrated into the soil. The property that I am treating is fairly flat and I don’t feel like there is much worry of runoff. Also I have had mud tubes coming out of the expansion joint of my driveway between the driveway and the house, I treated in there and just let it soak in and then retreated again being careful not to over treat the crack to where it would runoff. Does this make any sense? Or can you help me understand why trenching is needed?
Thanks so much in advance!
Mike
The reason we like to trench is because termites travel a couple of inches below the surface of the ground. If you just pour a liquid pesticide on the top of the ground, then it may not penetrate all that well into the soil. If you have some very sandy soil, then this may penetrate deep enough to be effective, but it is somewhat of a Hail Mary Pass. So, the concern is not run off, but rather ensuring that the termites are going to pass through the pesticide. Now, most of the time when the termites hit the foundation or the slab, they're going to head up. Therefore, if you were to treat the perimeter of the home with a non-repellent pesticide that is slow acting, such as Taurus SC, then it is possible that the termites are going to cross it on their way to the food supply. In that event, it is possible that it will take out the colony. However, termites do not always go up. Sometimes they go down and may find an opening in the foundation or crack in the slab that they can use to get through to another area of the house that you have not treated with the pesticide. In that event, simply treating around the foundation would be ineffective. However, if you trenched, then it wouldn't matter what direction the termites take, because they would be crossing through the pesticide that is in the trench. Therefore, this becomes an almost foolproof way to treat termites. I'm not saying that it is a bad idea to treat around the perimeter of your house with a pesticide, and I think that will help to deter termites, but I wouldn't hang my hat on it to prevent them. It sure will prevent a lot of other kinds of bugs though.
If you have mud tubes that are coming up from an expansion joint, then I think it is fine to treat the expansion joint, but you must break open the mud tubes first. I would just break open the mud tubes, apply Taurus SC with a garden sprayer over the broken mud tubes, and then I would let the termites rebuild them. This may be all you need to take out the colony. I would not be overly concerned about using too much Taurus SC. It doesn't take that much to do the job, but I would make the broken mud tubes nice and wet. So, what you are suggesting actually does make sense.
I hope that answers your questions. Be well my friend.
The FOGGING.. I have lived in my house for 15 years. I am in Michigan.
The beginning of this past summer, a neighbor 2 houses down from me, had their home fogged.
Let me start by saying that I am deathly terrified of roaches. I have had a terrible time researching because the photos that pop up of them are terrifying to me.
Back to the neighbor. I knew I was in trouble when I noticed TWO pest control trucks parked there from 730am until dark. For TWO DAYS.😢 I walked down on the 2nd day & asked if they were treating for roaches. They were. I was horrified because even though I know that german roaches hate to be exposed to light, my fear was they would scurry right down to my house. The pest control guy said as long as I DO NOT HAVE THEM I dont need to worry.
The neighbor between us was finding them in her yard. And now they are here. Im certain they have been here for months. ( I have watched your german roach video and am getting ready to wage war )
This just popped up again and it does not have a response to it, but I'm sure that I did respond to it. Please let me know if you did not receive my response and I will resend it. Please note that the sprayer I recommended has been giving me a lot of trouble lately and I am now testing a couple of other ones. The one I suggested seems to stop working from time to time and I have no idea why. I am going to ditch it and go with a different one. Check back with me in a couple of weeks and I will let you know what I come up with. I ordered three different sprayers and none of them are here yet.
Be well my friend.
Hello! I know this comment was posted a year ago, but did you have any success? May I ask what products/methods you used? Thank you!
@@MoonGardi85 Hi! Knock on wood YES!! I was able to get rid of them completely. It took work, a lot of work, and even more tears but I did. What a nightmare. Im still so paranoid because these neighbors, just 3 houses away, are still so filthy😬 They are also hoarder’s and have a ton of junk inside and outside. Anyway. I will start by saying do not call on a pest control company. I used 2 different companies and wasted a ton of money. You really must be vigilant and go room to room. Do not cut corners. I am a very clean person already so cleaning wasn’t huge but staying on top of the baiting, powder, mopping was huge. We were constantly making sure we had the best bait/powder and put it everywhere we could. Repeatedly. I saved the vacuuming and mopping for night time and did this EVERY NIGHT. I got rid of boxes. Food boxes like unopened Mac & cheese, Cereal, etc I put into sealed ziplocks and plastic containers. Any packages delivered were opened immediately and boxes tossed outside to our burn pit. I used everything suggested in this video and purchased from do my own ( do it yourself site recommended here ) If you do this with the mindset that you want these disgusting creatures to have no where to go where they won’t come into contact with powders/chemicals/bait and do not stop until you’re sure. And even then? Keep at it. It can be done. Even now with summer here I still have my husband put fresh powder all over our basement floor and into our electrical outlets/light switches. I haven’t seen one ( or evidence of any ) since following the advice I learned here. The only thing I did NOT do was drill holes into my walls for powder. Good luck to you and I am so sorry you are going through it.
How is CYkicks? Lived in Arizona and my most concern is scorpion and have been used CYkicks to control it. I was told that there is not technically a pesticide to kill scorpion but the way to prevent scorpion is to minimize its food which is any insects. I've been used CYKicks and diatomaceous earth powder. Do you have any inputs on controlling scorpions? Thank you!
If you want to control scorpions, then I recommend Onslaught FastCap Insecticide. It's not cheap, but it is effective. Cy-Kick CS is a good pesticide, but not the best choice for scorpions. Just follow label directions. I will give you a link to the product.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
www.solutionsstores.com/onslaught-fastcap-insecticide
WAIT, I CLICKED ON THE LIKE BUTTON, AND I STILL DON'T KNOW EVERYTHING🤕
Don't you just hate it when things don't work the way they are supposed to? Lol. Be well my friend.
I work for a big pc company and I'm clearly doing it wrong. I go behind other techs all the time to actually get rid of German roaches. I pride myself on being able to do this where most can't. I refuse to let folks continue to live with them longer than necessary. Sad times where they let it go on when it's such a health issue. I've saved a bunch of customers from cancelling because of this. Maybe I should have let em and kept em for myself.
You know, in pest control, as with all things in life, you can't go wrong taking the high ground and always doing the right thing. Please don't ever regret doing that. It's who you are and who you should be. Well done. Thanks for the comment. Be well my friend.
@Guy's Pest Solutions I'm working on developing my own pc co to get up and running in the near future. While I already was doing what you mentioned to get rid of roaches (except drilling holes in their walls) I did not know about the mop solution for the floors and cabinets. I'll be adding that to my services when I'm doing this for myself.
I wish you well with getting your company off the ground. There are things about German roaches that I was not taught in pest control school, and you probably were not taught either. For example, nobody ever mentioned that these guys will breed in the wall voids and don't need to come out for food or water. They can eat each other to survive. That is why you need to drill the walls and treat with boric acid. If you have any doubts about what I am telling you, please watch a video that was done by Animal Planet. I think you will agree that these folks know something about this stuff, and they are very reputable. They have no clue how to solve the problem, but they do an excellent job explaining what the problem is. They were actually able to get inside the walls to video. I will give you a link to it. The reason pest controllers fail is because they underestimate the roaches. These things are the ultimate survival machines. The exist for only two reasons... To survive and to multiply, and they are very proficient at both. The only predator they have are people, and they are not very good predators. In fact, people suck at it. So, the roaches reproduce out of control. The only way to eliminate them is to get a pesticide every place that a cockroach can possibly place its feet. If you leave any stone unturned, the roaches will most likely find it. Let me tell you something though... If you do the treatments correctly, then you can just specialize in roaches and forget everything else. Businesses, like hotels, restaurants, and even hospitals will beat a path to your door, if you can guarantee total elimination. It will take a little while for the word to spread, but when it does, the business will be flooding in. Just a couple of words of caution. Do not target homes or apartment buildings. Stick with commercial accounts. The reason is that you cannot count on tenants or even homeowners to faithfully mop floors with Nibor-D. Also, landlords are cheap. They don't want to spend money on roaches. Most homeowners don't either. They want cheap and fast, but there is no such thing with German roaches. It will cost homeowners and landlords a lot of money for this service, so they tend to cheap out and hire the guys that promise the world and deliver poor results. It's kind of like people paying a pest controller $300 to do a drywood termite spot treatment, instead of $2000 to fumigate. The price tag wins the account, but the termites are going to win in the end. You cannot successfully spot treat drywood termites and you cannot eliminate a German cockroach infestation without treating the wall voids. The higher end restaurants and hotels will be willing to pay whatever it costs for success. They have the resources, and they will turn to you after the cheap pest controllers fail. The only thing is that you can never fail. When you go in to pitch the account, you need to explain the reasons your competitors fail and what you will do differently. You also need to train the staff at your accounts to do the Nibor-D treatments, like mopping the floors, treating carpeting, and replacing the Nibor-D, if they clean a surface. Don't count on accounts buying Nibor-D. You need to inspect every week and give them the product as part of the service. It may take a few years before you have a reputation established and business are seeking you out, but if you never fail, it will happen. When it does, you will need to hire people. Do not make the mistake of just training people and cutting them loose to do the work. You need to stay in the field. Hire people to do the paperwork and the sales. You need to be spending all your time ensuring that everything is done right the first time. It's not what you "expect," it's what you "inspect," that matters most. As you have already observed, if you leave employees on their own, some of them will definitely screw it up. The last piece of advice I would like to offer is to give this a lot of thought before going into it. You are going to be putting in a massive number of hours. This is not going to be a 9 to 5 job. Running a business takes total commitment and you won't be getting much time off. It can put a lot of strain on your marriage and relationship with your kids. If you do it, then start small. You may want to work full time and just start by doing side jobs on the weekends, until you have a good client base. After you get rolling and the jobs are coming in, then you can go full time. It's a great way to get your feet wet with running a business, without putting too much at risk. Just remember, it is always service before profit. Leave no customer unhappy.
I wish you well with it. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
Annimal Planet video: th-cam.com/video/RU9oOCYPros/w-d-xo.html
@Guy's Pest Solutions I'm so glad I'm of the same mindset for most all of this. The only difference is I want to be able to also raise money to fund services for those that can't afford it. How I'm going to do that as yet I don't know. I'm currently over 40 and my kids are grown and my husband is also a pest control tech that I trained to deal with these pests the right way. I do understand that the wall voids may be needed for total elimination tho it's hard to say how many home owners will be keen on it being done. I have a bit of a twist to this whole thing that I'd like to discuss more with the hopes of maybe franchising in the future so don't want to put it on blast here yet but if there's a way I can chat directly casually that would be great. I'm new in the industry in comparison so I've reached out to several people that have been at this longer than I have. I focus mostly on Germans and bedbugs and want to continue doing that on my own where I can do it the better way and not the way I'm directed to do it.
@@kristinhl364 Helping others is always a wonderful idea. There is an endless number of people who cannot afford pest control. You may want to consider starting a 501(c)(3) charity. That allows you to raise money tax free. You can still draw a salary from it, but it does add another dimension to the corporation. Now, in addition to actually doing the pest control, you also need to raise money, and that can be time consuming. It's a wonderful thing to do, but you need to devote your life to it. I can tell you that, just answering questions for people the way I do takes 2 to 3 hours a day. Running a charity would be a life changing. People that do it are saints, but it takes a lot of commitment. Going the other way with franchising adds a totally different dimension to it all. To get into franchising, you really need to have your business well established. It's definitely a future thinking aspect. You need to be careful. A lot of businesses fail because they try to get too big too fast and run out of operating capital. People don't always realize how much money it takes to run a business and they go into it underfunded. Even well-established corporations like, Toys R Us, Montgomery Ward, Sears, and many others, got into trouble because they didn't read the market and they made unwise decisions. Even the US auto industry had to be bailed out by the government to stay afloat. If it can happen to them, then it can happen to anyone. They all had one thing in common. They overextended themselves. That is why you always need to go slow. Start small and grow your business in baby steps. If you build a better mousetrap, the world will beat a path to your door, but be careful. It is better to turn down work, rather than overextend yourself. Don't start hiring help until you are ready. Going too far, too fast, is often a recipe for disaster. You can lose everything and go bankrupt. Slow and steady wins the race. Remember, even Walt Disney failed at his first business attempt. I am always happy to talk about and answer any questions you may have. You can write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. You can feel free to pitch ideas to me. I will give you honest feedback, even if it's not what you want to hear.
Be well Kristin.
I have a huge cockroach infestation in my car and I’m a mom of toddlers so now their car seats are full of roaches too . Any help or advice ?
If you have roaches in your car, then you most likely have them in your home as well. Therefore, you need to treat both your home and the car. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat your home. If you live in an apartment, then do everything, except drilling the walls. Let me know if you live in an apartment and I will provide more guidance.
Cars are really hard to treat. The first thing you should do is make sure that you do not park in a garage. Parking in a garage will allow the cockroaches the opportunity to infest the home. Naturally, you want to start by thoroughly cleaning the car. Make sure that any food wrappers, crumbs, and so forth are removed. That means you need to vacuum really well. You should remove the child seats and kill the roaches. Remove the fabric off the seats and spray them with Raid Ant and Roach Killer, then wash them. Spray the hard surfaces of the child seats with the Raid as well. The next day, wash the seats really well and replace the fabric. You should have a strict rule that nobody ever eats in your car, including you. I know that's hard with kids, but it is necessary. I did it with my kids. Next, you want to spray Nibor-D every place where it will not be noticed. You can spray it under the seats, in different places under the hood, and the entire trunk. Spray it everywhere that it will not be seen or will not damage anything. After that, see if you can puff some boric acid into the doors. This can sometimes be accomplished by inserting the duster where the windows meet the doors. There's usually a seal right there where you may be able to insert the duster tip. Place an IGR disc under one of the seats, one in the trunk, and one someplace under the hood. Replace them every 90 days. Finally, apply a bait every place where it will not be seen. Just use small dots and use a different formulation of bait every 30 days. Domyown.com has a good selection of gel baits. Try to get six different baits and number them 1 to 6 with a Sharpie. On month seven, start with bait number 1 again. In the summer months, always park your car in the sun, with all the windows shut because roaches do not survive well at high temperatures. You can also put an electric heater in the car to boost up the temperature even more. If you can get the temp over 120 for several hours, that may do the trick. If you live in a cold climate, then you always want to keep the car outside because roaches do not survive well in cold either.
German cockroaches are hitchhikers, so be careful that you do not bring them into the homes of friends and family members. They will get into anything you have in the car, and they will attach themselves to your clothing.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
German cockroach video: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
IGR disks: www.domyown.com/gentrol-point-source-p-51.html?pdpv=2
Boric acid: www.domyown.com/boractin-insecticide-powder-p-2207.html?pdpv=2
Duster: www.domyown.com/bellow-hand-duster-p-106.html?pdpv=2
Nibor-D: www.domyown.com/nibord-insecticide-p-2410.html?pdpv=2
Thx.freind!
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Most companies don't even like to go up an attic unless the home has a built in ladder into the attic because it's just not a safe thing and insurance claims from attics could get your account cancelled and if double in rate
I think it's more of a case that pest controllers just don't like to go into hot attics. Any pest controller that cannot figure out how to navigate an attic without getting hurt isn't one I would hire. It's not an insurance issue. They have workman's comp. Heck, even the cable companies go up there. I get that it's not fun, but it's the right thing to do. I mean, you can't just expect to do the easy stuff on any type of job in any occupation. Pest controllers need to go in attics to inspect and treat. It's just that simple.
Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, thank you for your great videos. How could I send you a picture of the ants or termites that I have around a window? How could I contact you? Thank you!
You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, but my experience has been that I seldom get photos that are detailed enough to identify the species. I can tell you if they are ants or termites, but identifying the species requires close up photos that are in very good focus. I am happy to have a go at it though. You can also watch my video on how to tell the difference between carpenter ants and termites and my video on how to identify termite species. It is not hard to do if you have actual specimens. I will give you the links. Be well my friend.
Video on how to tell termites from carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/enJPS-h70Bs/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to identify termite species: th-cam.com/video/dIs_a0nfVjg/w-d-xo.html
Sorry, I'm so cheap, you saved me thousands and I share only $5.
You are not cheap my friend. You are doing this stuff yourself because you it is expensive to hire a pro, and who can afford that these days? I know I can't. The truth is that most people do not tip me anything, so I think $5 is a very nice gesture and it is very much appreciated. Tipping me or thanking me is never expected or required. I am just happy to be of service. The fact that you did this means that you are a very special person and there is nothing cheap about you. Thank you so much. I wish you well my friend.
Guy.....can you do a phone consult? And if so how much might you charge?
I don't charge anything. All my services are totally free. Just email your phone number to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please let me know the nature of the question in the email. It is helpful to know the target pest and the exact problem you are having with it. I will send you a text to see when it would be a good time to call.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Ants
God bless you!
I live in the country up in the mountains, in Quebec Canada 🇨🇦, where it is mainly sandy, and I have these huge ants because before I bought the property in 2021, the land was strewn with wooden pallets that were rotting away, and as I removed all the pallets, I noticed that caused me to have giant wood eating ants all around the land near the house and that also, the ants 🐜 started eating the wood around my house windows too!
Plus, I have these teeny weeny ones that are reddish that pick and burn! What type are they?
So yesterday, I went to the store and bought some Corn starch.
Apparently, all I have to do is sprinkle some on top of the ant holes and wait until they start bringing it into their nests to feed the other workers & their Queen, then, I have to make sure that the water gets in their holes as the Corn Starch will turn into ciment in their bodies and eliminate the colony.
Would you have any suggestions to add to that?
I’m a retired woman on a small monthly fixed income.
That’s why I have to find low cost solutions!
Thankfully,
Nicole
Those small red ants are most likely European fire ants. My advice is to not mess with these guys. They are known for their aggressive behavior and they will sting. Their nest can be hard to locate because they typically do not build mounds. They usually nest under rocks, logs, or other sorts of debris like that. Normally, I would recommend a bait to treat these guys, but that sort of thing is usually illegal in Canada. You can get it shipped to you from the US, but it's expensive. So, you may want to try to make your own bait out of either boric acid or diatomaceous earth, mixed with equal parts of sugar. You can place this mixture in bottle caps and place it wherever you are seeing the activity. Obviously, you cannot do this if it's raining or if there's snow on the ground. So, you want a dry day to do it. If it rains, then you are going to need to replace the bait. I have no idea if this is going to work, but I think that is your best bet. I seriously doubt that using cornstarch will be of any benefit at all. I have learned to never say never in pest control, but I have never heard of using cornstarch to kill ants, and I'm aware of no research that would support doing this. If the homemade bait does not work, then I can recommend a professional bait for you.
With regard to the carpenter ants, you should know that they do not eat wood. The reason they are attacking your house is because there is probably some sort of soft, wet wood that is attracting them. That means you may have some sort of roof leak, plumbing leak, or perhaps some of the caulking around the building has failed. Usually, when you see carpenter ants there is a moisture problem. Another reason you can get carpenter ants is if you have termites. Carpenter ants like to eat termites, and they love that the termites already excavated the wood for them. You only have subterranean termites where you are, so I recommend that you inspect around the building to see if you can find mud tubes coming up from the ground. You will typically see them on the outside perimeter of the house, but you may also find them under the house, if you have a crawl space. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat carpenter ants. Keep in mind that the ants that are damaging your home are just a satellite colony. The main colony is outside someplace. Therefore, it is always advisable to treat the outside of your house at least every 90 days. Again, the problem you will run into is that you cannot buy pesticides in Canada. I have a supplier that will ship pesticides to you, but they are not cheap and you told me that money is tight for you. I don't know what I can tell you about that. The Canadian government, in their infinite wisdom, has decided that you are not allowed to treat your own pests. They don't care how poor you may happen to be. It would appear that in their mind, if you cannot afford to hire a pest controller, then it is only fair that your house get destroyed by carpenter ants. I do not understand their thinking, but I can tell you these are not people I would vote for. In any event, your choices are a pretty limited. You can either pay a pest controller or you can pay a premium to get the pesticides that you need to do yourself. I honestly do not know of any way to do this without using a pesticide. I will give you a link to the supplier, so that you can check it out. I looked it up, and you can purchase 1 quart of Bifen IT for around $38 US. I don't know how big your house is, but this is probably enough to treat it twice. So, you are probably looking at around $19 US, to treat your home every 90 days. You do not need to treat in the winter months when it is freezing. I am so sorry that I cannot be of more help with that.
I hope this is of some help to you. Be well Nickie.
Video on how to treat carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to treat the exterior of your house with Bifen IT: th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html
Bifen IT: uspestsupply.com/bifen-generic-talstar-7-9/
Do you have a video about lawsuits against termite pest control companies?
I am not an attorney, so I try not to get involved in legal matters, but I can tell you that you need to read the contract carefully. A lot of the time pest control contracts are full of legalese and clauses that release the companies from all liability and they usually require you to agree to arbitration. So essentially, they will not treat your house unless you agree not to sue them and you agree that they are allowed to fail. I don't know if all contracts contain this language, but I have looked at several contracts in the past few months and they all did contained that type of language. The most that is offered in these contracts is that the company will retreat if they fail. I know that is not what you want to hear, but this is usually the case. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Guy. I have been doom scrolling your videos. I want to do this myself because I want to be self reliant. I bought a home in the hills west of phoenix in Arizona where snakes and scorpions ants spiders and ants are the main problem (very low humidity). I read a comment you made about clothes off the floor…I get it. What “cocktail” should I be using in Az? I am going to use Onslought Fastcap spider and scorpion. What else should I add to it to get the rest?
Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide is a good choice for scorpions. Mix it according to label directions in a battery-operated tank sprayer and spray up the side of the building 36 inches and out away from the building 48 inches. Be sure to soak the area where the building meets the ground. Also apply this on your patios, stairs, sidewalks, and that sort of thing. In other words, you want to apply it any place you frequently walk. This will stop the scorpions from getting in the building or hanging out on surfaces where you frequently walk. Next, you should apply it on all ornamental plants around the building as well, being sure to treat the dirt under the plants. I recommend applying it every 60 days. Look for obvious penetrations in the side of the house and treat them with D-Fense dust. Just buy a duster, fill it halfway with the dust, and puff the dust into any cracks or crevices that you find. After treating, it is a good idea to caulk these penetrations as well. If you want, you can treat the rest of the yard with Bifen XTS. It’s not as good as Onslaught, but it’s cheaper and easier to apply. This should slow them up a lot. I will give you a link to that video.
You are correct that you should always make sure that you hang up all your clothes. You should never leave clothes laying on the floor. Clothes that are waiting to be washed should be kept in a sealed hamper. Shoes should be kept off the floor on some sort of a shoe rack. After you finish the exterior treatment, you should check the house for scorpions. Look under appliances, in closets, under the bed, and that sort of thing. Be sure to check shoes, curtains, or anyplace these guys may be hiding. To assist in your search, you can use a black light. All scorpions will glow green when exposed to a black light.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to treat your yard with Bifen XTS: th-cam.com/video/Yozv3s-Qwlw/w-d-xo.html
Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide: www.domyown.com/onslaught-fastcap-spider-and-scorpion-insecticide-p-2579.html
D-Fense dust: www.domyown.com/dfense-deltamethrin-dust-p-2428.html
Duster: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099X3HS47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@GuysPestSolutions You are awesome. What a great resource!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Be well my friend.
What state are you in?
Florida.
The fumigation would have killed all carpenter ants. So doing a regular pest service including the eaves should keep new carpenter ants from entering to the attic
Here's the thing. You may have the carpenter ants at the same time as the termites, but you may not. Carpenter ants will eat the termites while they are alive and so it is common to have both problems at the same time. However, it is also possible that you do not have the carpenter ants at the time the fumigation was done and the carpenter ants come along for a plentiful source of food and easy tunneling after the tent comes down. This can happen weeks after the fumigation. This certainly does not always happen, but it is a possibility that should be mentioned to customers. Kind of like telling people about the possible side effects of taking a medication. Also, even if you do have a current carpenter ant infestation that is killed off by the fumigation, the ants in the home are most likely a satellite colony. The main colony is most likely outside the home in a stump of something and these things are going to return. So, you are correct that you must do a proper treatment of the exterior of your home every three months to prevent carpenter ants, as well as stopping more drywood termites from entering. If you don't, then you are definitely going to get reinfested with the termites because your neighbors have them too. These guys fly to your house, so they will be back.
Be well my friend.
Not sure why this was suggested? Don't like the term 'control' (as it usually means extermination rather than control). Prefer the term 'pest' (something that is where we, homo sapiens, don't want it to be) than the loaded term 'vermin'. Given a bit of careful and light intervention, without turning it into an occasional/stressful/panicked/expensive occurrence, we can help nature maintain a balance while deterring the most pesty situations. However, I'm in the UK and (in the States) you've got loads of types of beasties that actually EAT your homes! We tend to use stone or bricks, here, for most of our building and damp is usually the only thing that might undermine our structures (bit of woodworm, sometimes, perhaps).
Knowing, for one thing, that there are always more pests out there (and that they play vital roles in the ecosystem) - I prefer consistent deterrence every time.
What is 'fogging your yard'? It sounds horrendous! It sounds seriously heavy handed and random. Aren't mosquitoes just like our midges, really? They're attracted by sweat and the carbon dioxide in exhaled breath? Don't be sweaty and trap the exhaled CO2 so that they can't 'see' you (from a distance, at least). Same measures, as help protect against human to human respiratory infections, help hide me from the midges.
This has to be the most braindead post ever, don't be sweaty? I have hyperhydrosis and don't have a choice, and trap the carbon dioxide from your breaths??? You might as well not breathe, lol. And ... I don't give a shit if they get exterminated, there are so many of them, and they provide nothing, they invaded my home, so survival of the fittest time.
I think what you are basically suggesting is what we call “integrated pest management.” This includes things like cleaning up habitats, installing physical barriers, introducing natural predators into the environment, and so forth. For example, we know that mosquitoes breed in water and so, if you remove those breeding areas, that is a natural way to eliminate the mosquito population. However, there are pest controllers that do not do this because they make a pretty good living by spraying pesticides. Fogging is simply a process where they aerosolize a pyrethrin and basically create a fine misted kind of fog that will cover everything it comes near. The pesticide has an immediate kill of any insect that it touches. The product is often used both inside and outside, for different target pests.
Midges are somewhat different than mosquitoes, but yes, they are attracted to people much the same way. Of course, you need to understand that this is America. Folks here seem to have a much different way of viewing the world than many other people in other countries. I'm not saying that's a good or bad thing. I'm just saying that it's different than the perspectives that are probably held in the UK. That being the case, folks here are more apt to approach these sorts of situations in a different way than you would in the UK. I suppose it's just a cultural sort of thing and I'm sure that it will differ from country to country around the world. In the case of Americans, what most people want is for somebody to come in and simply get rid of the problem. Unfortunately, this sometimes leads to people in the business taking advantage of unsuspecting customers that do not understand how a particular pest functions. This is the primary reason why I did the video. Knowledge is power and people really do need to know the truth about the pest control industry.
You are correct about the term “control.” That would seem to imply that you are not going to eliminate a problem, but rather reduce it to a significant extent. I honestly do not know why they decided to coin that phrase in the industry, but they've been doing it for many years now. The truth is that it makes no sense to me either.
Thank you so much for the comment and for watching the video. Be well my friend.
We have gnats? Is that what you mean? They fly toward your face, and mouth and eyes. Mosquitoes in some places cause malaria. UK is blessed. You don't even need screens, must be nice. But your mold issues are awful.
what do you think of the store bought jail baits from the store
I think most of the baits that you can buy locally are okay to use. Just keep in mind that bugs can become resistant to baits. For some pests, like ants, this is most likely not a problem, but it is a huge problem for roaches. So, sometimes you need to rotate baits and you may not find a good selection locally. Domyown.com has a very good selection of different formulations of baits. Also, some ants do not like sweet baits and that is what most stores sell. Some ants like a protein bait and that can be hard to find locally. For ants, I always use both a sweet bait and a protein bait at the same time. They almost always go for the sweet, but not always. Think about it. Ants like to eat other bugs and those bugs are not sweet. They are protein. Outside your house, the main source of food is protein. Most of them do like the sweet stuff, but I guess there are some that are kind of health conscious and don't eat junk food. Lol.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Gel not jail,no 13 year old girls were harmed in this treatment
I live in NYC, what type of termites are in the area? Also, I recently had a termite inspection that reviled that I have termites in the basement eating away the structure under the basement steps. There is also evidence of carpenter ants. On the outside, there is evidence of ant and termite activity. The outside of the base of the house is concrete. Terminix wants to charge almost $4000. Can I treat this myself and if so, how would I go about it? Thank you in advance.
I am so sorry that you are having this problem. The only kind of termites that you have in New York are the most common species of subterranean termites. These guys always colonize in the ground and never in your house. They're not going to your house to live, but rather they're going there simply to eat because your house just happens to be their favorite restaurant. The reason you are also seeing carpenter ants is because they love to eat termites. Therefore, it is not unusual to see a termite infestation and a carpenter ant infestation at the same time.
One of the problems that you have in New York City is that you folks seem to love concrete quite a bit. Unfortunately, concrete makes treating termites much more problematic. You see, like I mentioned before, the termites always colonize in the ground and they must return to that colony fairly often to bring food back to the other termites and to obtain the moisture that they need to survive. For that reason, the way we go about treating them is we place a pesticide barrier around the entire building. Since termites only travel underground and never above ground, the pesticide must be placed under the ground where termites travel. If you place a pesticide barrier under the ground around your home, then the termites will have no choice but to pass right through it on their way to and from the colony. When they do, they will bring the pesticide back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. No colony, no infestation in your home. The problem with having concrete around your home is that, in order to get the pesticide down where the termites are traveling, you have to bore holes through the concrete and then inject the pesticide into the ground under pressure. This requires some pretty expensive equipment, so it is not practical for a homeowner to do themselves. As to the question of whether you can do it yourself, it will depend on if your house is surrounded by concrete. What I often see in New York, is concrete that runs from the side of the house all the way to the property line. If this is the case for you, then unfortunately, you may be stuck with pest controllers. Before you go that way though, there is a way that you can attempt to treat this yourself, but it's not a sure thing. The only good news about the species of termites in your area is that they are very slow eaters and so you do have some time to experiment a little if you like. The other problem that you have though is that it is very difficult to obtain pesticides in New York because your state has decided to pass laws making it illegal to sell pesticides to you. The pest controllers know this because, after all, they are the ones that lobbied to get those laws passed. Now that they have made it illegal for you to do anything yourself, they can charge you whatever they like. Anyway, if you can get your hands on a can of fipronil foam, then you can try to treat this yourself. This product can be obtained from Amazon, but I do not know if they will ship to New York. I will provide a link to it, so that you can see if you can get your hands on some. If you can, then what you need to do is drill holes along the entire area where you have seen the damage, that are about four inches apart, and halfway through the thickness of the wood. The holes only have to be wide enough for the applicator tip of the foam can to enter. After all the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until it is either coming back out at you or it is coming out the other holes. There must be foam either going into or coming out of every hole. Just like the pesticide that you would put around your home under the ground, the foam works the exact same way. In fact, it uses the exact same active ingredient. This is a slow kill product and the termites are not going to realize that it is a poison. So, they will eat the wood that you have just poisoned and they will bring that poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Oftentimes, this will have the same exact effect as if you applied it around your home. That being said, it does not always work. Still, a can of foam costs about $40 and that sure beats the Hell out of spending $4000. Now, whether you treat from the outside or the inside, this is a slow process and you can expect it to take up to eight or nine weeks before the termites are gone. This is because we need to give the termites time to bring the product back to the other termites and spread it around, so that they are all poisoned. If this was a quick kill product, then it wouldn't work. If by chance you do not have concrete surrounding your house, then let me know and I will tell you another way that you can go about treating your termites.
If the procedure I just described about the foam does not work, then you will have to hire a pest controller. That being said, you should know that prices can vary wildly in this industry. Therefore, it pays to shop. If you must hire a pest controller, call at least six different companies to get estimates.
Now, let's talk about your carpenter ants. Unfortunately, even though the carpenter ants are hanging out in the exact same places as the termites, they must be treated differently. It just so happens that I have a video on how to treat for carpenter ants yourself and I will place a link below for you. Again, since you live in New York, you may have difficulty finding the products, but try Amazon to see if they will ship to you. If you strike out with Amazon, then try some of the sellers on eBay. Some of the eBay sellers are really hungry and they will ship to pretty much anywhere. Of course, you will pay extra for this service. Still, cheaper than what the pros are going to charge. Keep in mind that, almost all of the time, the colony that is in your home is just a satellite colony. The main colony is outside someplace. Therefore, even after you kill all the carpenter ants in your house, you will easily become reinfested if you do not place a pesticide barrier around your home every three months. The only other way to avoid reinfestation is if you find that colony outside your house and eliminate it. Eliminating the outside colony can be somewhat problematic because there may be more than one of them. That is why I always recommend doing the exterior treatment of your house every three months.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Fipronil foam: smile.amazon.com/BASF-805571-Termidor-Termiticide-Insecticide/dp/B07QWMJ7JM/ref=sr_1_7?crid=26IQZ73HGVIAI&keywords=fipronil+foaming+aerosol&qid=1658050230&sprefix=fipronil+foam%2Caps%2C109&sr=8-7
Video on how to treat for carpenter ants: th-cam.com/video/Te9BUCaIQZY/w-d-xo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you very much for your detailed, informative, response. Most of the house is surrounded by concrete. However, the front of the house, where the lawn is located, there is dirt. Would that be enough of an area to do the job? I think that is the way the termites and ants entered the house. BTW, I have watched several of your videos and I do not mind the length at all. If the information is helpful, I don't mind sitting through them. For the information that you provide, you will have a few hundred thousand subscribers in no time. Thank you again.
@@ikeyike543 If you can get the products, then I would apply the granules wherever there is dirt and I would also do the interior treatment with the foam. If the termites are attacking from the front of the house, then there is a reasonable chance that you can eliminate them for under $100. It's not a guaranteed thing, but it's definitely worth a shot. I know that I would give it a try.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well m friend. By the way, I was born in Brooklyn.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you again. You deserve the kind words for all the help that you are providing for many people. Enjoy your retirement!
@@ikeyike543 😊😊❤❤
just a quick one here in South Africa we do not build with wood bricks. the Government spray for misquotes in big body's of water. you responsible for your own misquote issues.
Please watch my video on how to get rid of the mosquitoes. Mostly you need to just get rid of the breeding areas.
Mosquito video: th-cam.com/video/LkkrW_tlLkg/w-d-xo.html
not expensive to do ... but once bed bug attack on your house you will feel like to burn your house
You are absolutely correct. Bed bugs are super nasty and not easy to get rid of. While they are not easy to get rid of, they are very easy to get. That is why I do not like people spending the night at my house and I do not like staying in hotels. When I do have to spend the night somewhere, I always do a thorough inspection for bed bugs and German cockroaches. If I encounter either of those things, my luggage doesn't go in the room, and neither do I. I would rather spend the night in the car than in a building that has bed bugs or German cockroaches. Neither of those things are anything to mess with.
Be well my friend.
what did you mean by unpainted wood for carpenter bees. ever since I stained my deck there has been none. it was a regular stain
I'm sorry. Carpenter bees do not generally attack painted wood, but they can get into stained wood, particularly when the stain kind of fades out from the sun and weather. Of course, this does not always happen and often it does not. I was simply pointing out that it was a possibility and I have seen it before. Not something I would lose a lot of sleep over.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks for the reply yes I see your point painted wood woukd be slightly better l. But we re stain every year anyways so it keeps it fresh enough to deter thr carpenter bees. It's amazing how painting or staining the wood repels them thanks again for everything you're doing. Amazing work
@@anth115 Thank you for those kind words. I am always happy to help. Be well my friend.
Insulation I meant lol
Im in Canada and Imidacloprid and β-Cyfluthrin are banned and the pesticides available only work for a day. :(
Please tell me the target pest. Sometimes I have a Canadian solution. Be well my friend.
@GuysPestSolutions thanks for your reply! I found a German cockroach in my bathroom a couple days ago.
@@tdelli3675 I'm so sorry to hear that. Please watch my video on how to identify cockroach species and make sure this is a German cockroach. If it is, then please watch my video on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. After you watch the video, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and ask for the German modification for Canada. Let me know that you already watched the German cockroach video. When you watch the video, take good notes. You must do it correctly for it to work. Also, let me know if you live in an apartment. I have a modification for apartments as well. Please let me know if this is not German roaches and I will give you the treatment for whatever species it is. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Video on how to identify cockroach species: th-cam.com/video/FN7JyBNSooY/w-d-xo.html
Video on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation: th-cam.com/video/FoxCB5qLPMA/w-d-xo.html
Guy
I have 2 1/2 feet of river rock all around my house and deck
How can I yrench
When you say 2 1/2 feet, is that measurement the distance from the house to the end of the river rock or is that the depth? Big difference. If this is the width of the gravel and it is only a couple of inches thick, then check to see if there is a weed barrier under the rock. If so, check to see if it will allow water to pass through it. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters a lot with termites.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How do I get a rid of fleas
To rid your home of fleas, the first thing you need to do is to vacuum all the upholstered furniture and pet bedding, paying particular attention two places where fleas can hide, like behind cushions. Next, vacuum the floor throughout the house. If you have a vacuum with a disposable bag, then discard the bag outside in the trash. If you have a vacuum with a reusable canister, empty it outside in the trash and then wash it out with the garden hose before bringing it back in the house. Wash all bed linens and pet bedding in your washing machine and dry on high heat. Next, spray a pesticide that is labeled for fleas, on all the floors and on areas of upholstered furniture that does not come in contact with people or pets. To treat floors, hold the can at arm’s length and make sweeping motions across the floor to cover all surfaces. For upholstered furniture, you should spray under the cushions and then any folds that there are. The product that I like best is called PT Ultracide. I will give you a link for it. Fleas can be hard to kill, so you may need to do this treatment every two weeks until the problem is solved. If you have pets, then you should treat them as recommended by your vet. The reason fleas got into the house in the first place is because they are outside. If you have a flea problem outside, then there is a good chance you will end up with a flea problem inside. Even if you don't have pets, the fleas will still jump on you when you are outside, and so you can carry them in. Therefore, you need to treat the outside as well. I do this with a hose end sprayer. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. I find that treating the yard every 60 days seems to do the trick.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
PT Ultracide: www.domyown.com/pt-ultracide-20-oz-p-175.html
Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: th-cam.com/video/wifoTU5dmp0/w-d-xo.html
we have rodent problem how to solve it with out poison. as we have cats rabbits and bird. few field mice has moved into the house.....how to do it easy and effectively.
T-rex traps
I have a video on that and I will place a link below. You can use traps that do not harm the mice. Also, I show you how to build them out.
I hope that helps. Be well Michele.
Mouse video: th-cam.com/video/GNg51AWjm_Q/w-d-xo.html
Can i get this stuff in Nevada cause CA bans the good stuff
You can buy most pesticides from domyown.com. They will ship to California and shipping is always fast and free. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Why you dont talk about diatomaceous earth?
I'm not really a big fan of using diatomaceous earth. I do not know of any professional pest controllers that use it. This product will kill certain kinds of insects, but it is a dust that can be a respiratory irritant. I only recommended its use when more effective products are not available. For example, boric acid dust works much better than DE, so I always recommend using that first indoors. Outside treatments are another story. So, how you go about treating a pest is going to depend upon the species. In my opinion, DE is never a good choice, if something better is available. I often receive questions from people in other countries who do not have the proper pesticides available to them. When that happens, I do need to sometimes recommend using DE, but I never guarantee its effectiveness or safety. I think it does work for some species, but it would not be my first choice. It is just not as safe and effective as other options. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for replying. I used DE to treat my bed bug issue. Since it is non toxic i put it every where. We tried the sprays before but they worked temporarily only. I do live in Canada and basically everything is illegal here. I will keep the boric acid product you mentioned in mind as I never knew about that until I watched your video.
@@FatherFH I am happy that DE worked for you. Did you mix it with water? If so, can you tell me how you mixed it? How much DE to how much water? Thanks.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks, i used it dry. Room Has carpet. Line at the doors. Line all around the bed frame. The whole mattress. Top of the mattress liner. Removed all the pillows and blankets and put them in a large tote and sprayed them. Left them in the tote in the basement so no source of food. 6 months later a good vacuuming so it doesn't look like there is cocaine everywhere. 🤣
@@FatherFH Okay. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
I’ve been doing pest control for over 15yrs and the price just keeps going up not down, so much to pay for, know your worth
You are right. It wasn't that long ago that pest controllers were charging about $25 a month. Now it's more like $65 to $85 a month. A lot of folks can't afford it anymore.
Be well my friend.
Don’t you need a license to get professional stuff
I guess it depends where you are. I'm in Florida and most stuff is easy to get locally
In some states you do, but in most states you do not. Besides, I have never seen the pest control police ever raid someone's home and haul them away to pest control prison. Mostly, it is just illegal to sell the products to unlicensed applicators, so it is hard to get what you need. There is absolutely no logic to it, but it is what it is.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Thanks!
Thank you so much. That was very thoughtful of you. Very much appreciated. Be well Denise.