Initially, as I listened to you, I found myself saying "get to the point..." But quickly I realized your story telling is charming, your lack of cruelty is heart warning, and attention to detail is admirable. You rock! Thank you.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. I usually get people telling me to get to the point or they tell me that I'm a nice person and they like the way I do videos. You are the first person to tell me both at the same time. Sounds like a very honest opinion. Very much appreciated. I did get the message from others about getting to the point and my newer videos do just that. The mouse video was one of my earlier works and I was very new to TH-cam. While the advice in the video is very sound, I did not understand at the time that folks wanted fast and to the point. I have started to remake some of my older videos to shorten them up, but it will take some time to get them all done. The mouse video is on the list, but I have some others that I need to get to first. I do listen to what folks like you tell me and I take the feedback very seriously. The truth is though, that I do miss sharing the stories because that is more consistent with my personality. What you saw in the mouse video was pure me. The newer videos are much shorter, but do not reflect my personality as well. Oh well. Thanks again for that very kind comment. Be well my friend.
If I may suggest the following: Be you boo-boo... I found it particularly "charming" when you realized how you eventually felt about laughing at your mother's fear of mice. In my humble opinion, the world at this time needs to hear and or be reminded of these simple moral courtesies. And you pulled it off very well. So, keep the stories with the moral of the story at their end... perhaps keep them short, +/- 1-2 minutes. Perhaps write them out first, then edit them a couple times or more...or perhaps, you could manually speed up the video during your stories. That might be the perfect compromise...bottom line, if people need to, they can take responsibility for their time management and fast forward past the stories. Be well. Anthony. @@GuysPestSolutions
For the mice that are completely able to avoid all the other traps, after going nuts trying all sorts of traps, which the mouse (which must have had a long neck, and a gentle tongue to get the bait off of both snap and glue traps) always managed to avoid. So I got a bunch of those folding glue traps that fold into a box, but cut the edges off and stuck a bunch of them together to make a 36" long glue trap which I lay across a doorway where they had to cross, and although I kept having to cut out the part where the mice got stuck, at least I found a way to catch the little ba*tards.
My goodness Guy, I didn't expect to hear you speak with such compassionate understanding about other being afraid of mice. The fact that you understand your mother's paralyzing fear of mice speaks volumes about who you are as a person. I am one of those people as well. I have tried to tell myself, they are so much smaller than myself and that they cannot really hurt me, but it does not work. Thank the good Lord, I haven't seen many in my home over the years, but when I did, I was literally frozen with fear. Thank you so much for not only your recommendations, but also your compassionate understanding of another person's fear. God bless you! I subscribed because I would like to hear more about what you have to say. 🥰
A good way to find cracks or holes in unfinished basements or crawlspace walls is to enter them during daylight hours and look for areas where light is shining through from the outside.
I've caught a lot of mice with a snap trap with the yellow pad facing the wall. No bait just clean. Mice use the edge of a wall like a highway and step on the pad.
I break a little piece of dry spaghetti off and wedge it in the little hole on the trigger plate then cover it in peanut butter. The mouse licks the peanut butter then starts to gnaw on the spaghetti noodle. Has proved pretty effective for me.
If you have lizards, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and tell me where you live. Also, describe the lizards to me and send a photo if you can. Try to get the photo close up and very well focused. Let me know if these guys are getting in the house or if it is an outside problem only. Be well my friend.
A half peanut wired on to the trigger of a snap trap works very well. I use copper wire that is stiff enough to be able to push through the peanut, but a thin needle works to make a hole in the peanut if the wire is too thin to be able to penetrate through. If you have mice or rats inside your walls, a mosquito coil can be used to drive them out. It takes some ingenuity to get the smoke into the cavity, but it can be done safely using a steel container to burn the coil in, and a small fan to blow the smoke in through an electric outlet or even if you have to make a hole to be repaired after the rats flee. The smell seems to linger inside the wall for over a year.
Thanks for the info! I’ve been trying to get mice to stop coming into the attic for two years. My pest company filled some holes but we can’t find any other openings. With cold weather setting in they are back. I’m going to try your trail cam suggestion next. Seems like a clever idea!!
Apparently, there are quite a few people who just cannot bring themselves to kill these little guys. I must admit that I am not one of them. I do respect though that some people would rather catch and release, and that will work out fine, if you make sure that they cannot get back into the house. For me though, I have four very simple rules about killing anything. I will let absolutely anything live, as long as it:
1. Does not regard me as food. 2. Does not wish to harm me in any way. 3. Does not invade my personal space. That is to say, it does not come into my house. 4. Does not make messes that I have to clean up.
Anything that does not violate those rules gets to live. That means I will tolerate field mice that are smart enough to stay outside. As much as I hate snakes, I will let them live, as long as they are not poisonous. However, I will not allow things like rats to exist anywhere on my property. So far, this arrangement has worked out pretty well.
Thank you so much. That is so nice of you to say and I am humbled that another exterminator would like my videos. I do hope that you subscribe because I am now in the planning stages of doing one on German cockroaches. As you know, the general thinking in pest control is that it is pretty much impossible to eliminate German cockroaches. The gold standard has always been to get a 90 percent knock down and keep returning to the client for follow-up treatments, so that the customer will never "see" any roaches, but we know that they are still breading away in places. The truth about German cockroaches is that they are shy and nocturnal, so if you see one, then you really have thousands of them. Well, I have a way to totally exterminate them 100 percent. It isn't cheap, it isn't fast, and it isn't easy, but it IS possible. I not only did it for homes, but entire hospitals as well. Unlike my other videos, this one will not only be targeted for do it yourselfers, but also professional pest controllers who would like to offer this type of service. The only problem I have is that it is going to take me weeks to get it done because there is a lot to it. I am trying to figure out a way to simplify it, but I'm not quite there yet. Anyway, you sound like someone that may be interested in this. If so, then stay tuned. I will get it done just as soon as I can. Thanks again for watching. I am so pleased that you like what I do.
Certain essential oils will repl mice. Peppermint and Eucalyptus are two of the strongest ones, they also don't like Clove, Cinnamon, and Lavender, but these probably aren't quite as effective. Best to use a combo of at least two, so they don't get used to it.
I tried cinnamon, spread a very dusting on the floor around where I had seen them running through the bedroom. Then one night, I was reading on my bed, and saw mom mouse walk nice and slow, and SAT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CINNAMON! Then cleaned her mouse face with the front feet that had been walking in the cinnamon. Same problem with Cayenne pepper, neither bothered mousy at all.
I have never done that myself, but that sort of thing does work. You can also use baking soda instead of plaster of Paris. I will give you a link to a video that talks about doing all that sort of thing. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. th-cam.com/video/BB9gDMFAqWs/w-d-xo.html
I use a 8 liter bucket with a wire threw top middle with a rolling pop can with peanut butter on it and a third water a wood plank going up works very well
Back in the 70s I had a barn that was empty except for some roof tin on the ground and the mice 🐁 and rats 🐀 loved to congregate I would go out there and bang on that tin and they would scatter everywhere. It was quite a game.
Thank you very much Guy for your sharing of your expertise on this! I've got a mouse issue in my crawlspace (got one a couple of days ago using snap trap). There are mouse (also rat) droppings in the in between the insulations. A contractor said I should replace the insulation because the droppings and smells will attract New mice/rats. I would loveto hear your insight on this. Thank you!
Mice and rats enter homes because they are looking for food, water, and shelter. Your home makes a great place to nest and if you leave them access to food and water they will be very happy residing with you. So, you want to be sure to keep all pet food and water put away at night. If you leave dog food or a water bowl on the floor at night, the mice and rats will regard it as a welcome mat. In other words, you want to deny them food and water any way you can. The most important thing though is to build them out. You need to make sure that there are absolutely no entry points into your home. I cover that in my video. If they cannot get in, then you won't have the problem. After you build them out, then it's just a matter of catching the ones that are already inside. As for the droppings and urine, it can smell and, if that is the case, then you probably need to clean it up. Most of the time though I don't find the smell to be a problem unless it's a fairly large infestation. I have not heard of droppings attracting other rodents. It may make them feel a bit more comfortable with the space, but I don't think they seek out droppings. I'm thinking they are more interested in food, which is why the snap traps work so well. Personally, I would not replace the insulation unless it is damaged in some way and even then I would only fix the damage. I would not just replace all the insulation. I guess the exception would be if the insulation was urine soaked to the point that it smelled. Other than that I would leave it alone. Since the mice are finding their way into the crawlspace, my guess is that there is a pipe penetration or other entry point from the outside into the crawlspace. If you patch that entry point and catch the existing mice/rats, then the problem will be resolved. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Good Video, I used to work for a Data Company, in those days we had many cables entering a building, leaving gaps where Rats would get in so after scratching our heads, we combined Wire Wool strands with Silicone and that seemed to stop them. We also left 10 gallon Bucket Traps with stairs below the cable ducting which caught the odd ones, eventually we fitted electric ones.
I had “humane “traps on the shelf in the garage. They both became stinky, and we found mice started coming in again and got trapped, and died in the traps. If you are storing, put tape over the holes. Also, we caught mice in snap traps that were only caught by a leg or -the worst- a nose! They were suffering greatly. Will never use them.
You are correct. Those snap traps can catch a mouse without killing it. I have had it happen lots of times. Glue boards are worse though. So, you may want to stick with the humane traps and just make sure you clean them well before storing them. Taping over the holes is a good idea. You should also build them out so that they don't get in at all. If you can't figure out how they are getting in, then let me know. I can help you with that. Be well Sandra.
Thank you for your video. I had a winter infestation in my storage and they tried to eat everything. Took a nibble out of every thing in site, tunneled through all the furniture. However as a little girl I too thought it a novelty that I had no fear of the critters and snakes...sending my Mom screeming when I cought one. I don't feel guilty, my time has come and there is no one but me to deal with these issues. So thank you for the help. 😊
I had good luck eliminating a family of rats that were getting into a free standing garage by mixing baking soda with chunky peanut butter, just put it out on a paper plate in a shaded corner of the (wood fenced) yard and in 2 days they had eaten it all and we haven't seen any rats so far after 4 weeks.
A mouse died in the wall in my kitchen of all places. My kitchen smells like hot carcass and I'm truly disgusted 🤢🤢. I don't even think my apartment complex can even do anything about it really but I will ask them to seal the holes at least. I now realize that they've been here for a while as I do remember hearing scratching noises in the ceiling last summer ugh 😩
I suspect there's a little bit more here than meets the eye. The first question you need to ask is how did that mouse get into your apartment in the first place? The only possibilities I can think of is that it entered from the outside, or it entered from another apartment, or maybe even from a hallway. In any event, this mouse may not be alone. There is most likely an opening someplace where mice can enter your apartment. It is important to find this opening to stop by the mice from getting in or from breeding in your apartment. This can be a bit tricky with an apartment because a mouse can get into a hole as small as one quarter of an inch in diameter. Since you are smelling this dead mouse in the kitchen, it could be that is where the entrance point is. Many times in apartments the plumbing in the kitchen runs to an apartment on the other side of the wall, and the wall may not be sealed around the pipes. So, go under the sink and make sure that the pipes are sealed. There may be other openings as well that are behind the base cabinets. So, I recommend that you remove all the drawers and have a look to see if there any holes back there. There could also be a hole behind the dishwasher. You may want to ask the apartment manager to have that dishwasher pulled out, so that you can inspect behind it. It wouldn't surprise me a bit if you also find the dead mouse somewhere under the base cabinets and possibly behind that dishwasher. The dead mouse can also be under the bottom of the base cabinet that is below the sink. Most of the time this area of the base cabinet has a cabinet bottom that creates a gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the floor. It is very possible that the dead mouse is under there as well. Of course, that area would not be accessible. I think it is probably somewhat unlikely that the dead mouse is actually in the wall. I say that because walls are usually pretty sealed up, so I don't think you would smell the dead mouse that much if it was in the wall. More likely than not, you will find that dead mouse behind the cabinet someplace. I have learned to never say never in pest control, so anything is possible, but I would look behind all the cabinets first to see if you can find that dead mouse. If you did not use any poison to kill the mouse, then it is very possible that your neighbors did. That would further support my hypothesis that there is an opening someplace between your apartment and your neighbor's apartment. The mouse may have died from natural causes, but I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it was poisoned. That is why I never recommend using poison to kill mice inside of a building. Unfortunately, if you cannot find and remove the dead mouse, then there isn't much you can do about the smell, other than wait. At least, I am not aware of a solution. The mouse will eventually decay to the point where it no longer smells. I'm so sorry that this happened to you. Be well my friend.
Use steel wool then reinforce it with the tomcat spray foam... they'll eat through the foam but as long as there is no food source you will be good... check behind your stove and under your sink
I live in Alberta, Canada. We gave ZERO rats here. Really! Even though there are rats living in the 2 neighboring provinces, one territory, and even Montana. Being mostly an agricultural province until the mid 70's when the oilfields exploded onto the scene, rats were a problem on farms. So the government set about an anti-rat campaign. We took it seriously. TV commercials, posters, government programs, and a strict rule to kill on site! There are fines if you own a pet rat. Yes, even pet rats are banned to this day. We treated it like we did Covid. And this was 50 years ago at least! And it didn't take long before they were gone. I've lived in Alberta for nearly 50 years and have never seen a rat on my farm growing up or anywhere to this day. Mice, on the other hand, are cute as buttons and I find them hard to kill. Of course, they have to go. Usually we leave it up to the farm cats. But I live in the city now with no cats. I had mice last year. I had to get an electric trap and the traditional snap traps that have been upgraded to plastic (because the traditional wood and wire traps are terrifying). I've used poison bait traps that only work if you get the good stuff that are harder to get (you can get them at a farm store if you are a registered farm owner there....just need your land location, etc). They don't smell when they die and the bodies practically disintegrate immediately. No suffering either. The cheaper poison you get at Walmart is useless. Don't waste your money. It might make them sick but rarely kills them and that's not humane. The only trap I hate to use more is the sticky glue boards. They are terrible! I only used them once because I had a whole litter of babies descend into my kitchen in one night. I had to set up those sticky ones so I could get all the babies in one night. It was awful. They were stuck but not dead. Tiny, cute, and terrified little things stuck on the glue. Some of them bloody. All alive. I took them outside and had a neighbor finish them. I cried. So now I just use those plastic snap traps with peanut butter that works really good and the electric one does too. But I can't look at those sweet little eyes. So cute. Just can't live with them. I admit I've had a couple of good conversations and eye contact with a few mice now and then, the night before I knew they were going to end up in one of my traps. So conflicting!
We have rats, they have eaten my herbs, i cant grow veggies anymore. I filled with steel wool holes outside, poured black pepper, cayenne pepper, and in a bottle I put white vinegar (couldn't find ammonia) with essential oil of citronela and sprayed outside. I plan to do that every evening. I don't want them to continue scratching trying to eat through the walls to get inside because they were digging through a hole and were ready to get in! 😭
When you see one mouse you probably have many more. Mice will follow a urine trail into any and all small spaces into your home. The smell of mouse urine is an invitation that other mice will follow to a place of comfort and a steady source of food. Devote use of snap traps with metal triggers will send a message in time that your house is not a wade house to their success and security.
I use the old fashion Victor traps with peanut butter and have a very high rate of success. My Father used the same traps but used pecans for bait stating that those "SOB's can't get those off" because he would jam them tightly into the holder LOL, that man was a king at catching mice. The best way I found to place them was in some sort of choke point where they couldn't just go around them. Great video and some excellent tips as well.
@@MitchellAdamson-cq5wg Unfortunately, cats are not a good solution for mice. If you feed a cat, which most people do, then it is likely to just play around with the mice and not kill them. Also, mice breed very quickly and they stay hidden as much as possible. Even a hungry cat cannot possibly find and kill them all. Also, eating mice can get a cat sick. So, while cats have a great reputation for eliminating a mouse problem, the truth is it's more like the Tom and Jerry cartoons from years ago. The mice are most likely going to win. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
When I had 2 or 3 large dogs in the house, I kept 2 buckets of water for them. If I put the buckets near a wall, mice would get in the bucket for water and then could not get out, so they drowned. Only problem is there are too many mice that did not get in the buckets for a drink.
The problem is that you need to build them out. The mice enter from the outside and if you don't find the entry point, then they will keep coming in. Let me know if you cannot find the entry point and I will explain how to do it. Be well my friend.
If you go the catch and release route you should learn what mice are native vs invasive species. You may want to consider the damage invasive species can cause if you release back into the wild.
That is true. Of course, the problem is with most invasive species is that they breed rather quickly and the truth is that a couple of mice one way or the other is not going to make much of a difference. There are folks who simply will not kill anything or take this problem into consideration, so I honestly don't know the answer to the problem. Here in Florida we have an invasive species of frog that has taken over the entire state. They are Cuban Tree Frogs and there are now so many of them that they are all over the place. All residents have been asked to kill as many as possible, but I doubt if anybody actually does it. The problem is that they will eat anything, including other species of frogs and now the only frogs I ever see are Cuban Tree Frogs and they are all over the place. Another one of the problems with them is that they are kind of cute, so people seem to like them, which I suspect is the reason nobody kills them. So, the problem is way out of control. Sadly, that seems to be a recurring scenario with different invasive species. Most of the time you can't stop them, even though, as you point out, they can cause damage. I wish I had a solution for this problem. You do make a good point though.
Great advice. We use mouse cube traps. When I catch one or two, I put them in the car and drive a mile or so in the woods and let them go. One day collecting firewood, picked up a log, wow about eight little ones looking up at me, I slowly lowered the wood back and let them be. They were about a half mile away from the house, so let them be.
It's not so much that they are fast. It's more about them being cautious and timid. They have a way of very gently licking off the food in the trap. With marshmallows they cannot lick it off and they need to actually bite into it and that will trigger the trap. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@micheleauletta4407 The key is to build them out. You need to find the openings where they are getting in. If you cannot locate the entry points outside, then email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will share a trick for that. TH-cam will most likely delete it if I post it here. I don't know why they do that. Be well Michele.
I go in and out thru my garage door. And carry stuff in , so garage is open till I get done. I worry a mice can easily run right in and I would not even been aware. What can I put around my garage door to deter them. I did put moth balls but , does that really work. Thank you guy. I've spread your advice and sight to others and they used it and your advice worked. Thanks, jo
Thank you so much for those kind words and for passing me along to others. Very much appreciated. There are always exceptions, but the vast majority of the time, mice typically come out at night and not during the day. So, unless you go shopping at night, which some people do, then you probably will not have a problem with the mice entering through your garage door during the day. Most likely, if you're having mice in the garage, then they are getting in through some sort of opening. That could be an opening around the garage door itself, because it doesn't seal tightly, or there could be another opening somewhere around the perimeter of the garage. You need to find that entry point and seal it. If you would like to know how mice are getting in, there is a way to do that, but it will cost you a little bit of money. If you cannot find the entry point, then buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different locations until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground. Keep in mind that a mouse can get into an opening that is only about 1/4 inch wide, so the entry point may not be obvious. The camera will guide you right to it though. Make sure that you do not have any food sources in the garage that would attract them. I hope that helps. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Be well Joan. Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
The problem with live traps, in my own experience is that you have to remember to check them every day because if you don't, that mouse is going to die a slow death in there anyway. It's been some time since I had mice in my house but somehow they were getting in, I think it was through the AC drain line. Anyway, I had a live trap in the laundry room behind a washing machine, somewhere I haven't even looked in years. Well I was walking by the laundry room and I saw something familiar laying on the floor. It was a little black plastic disk. It was where you place your bait inside the live traps. Obviously the cats found themselves a toy but why? I didn't put 2 and 2 together until that night I see the cats staring at the ceiling and I hear little thumpety thumps. Well, this means there's a mouse in the ceiling. What actually happened was that the mouse was caught in the live trap and the cat let it out. 😂 That's typical for these cats. They catch the mouse and then let it go. 😆
That's both true and funny. You do need to remember to check humane traps every day. Also, one of the problems with a cat solution is that, if you feed your cats, then they are not hungry. Cat food is probably tastier than mice, so the cats may just play with the mice and then let them go. They may just regard them as toys. Mice can carry diseases too, so it's not a good idea for your cats to be eating them anyway. Cats can be quite clever and curious, so I am not surprised that they managed to release the mice from the trap. You are lucky that the cats didn't carry the mice into the bedroom for you. Lol. I have seen them do that sort of thing. Thanks for sharing your story. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions i have more funny stories about pests in my house from lady bug infestations to snakes in the ceiling to the surveillance camera that i installed in the ceiling to monitor what's going on in there. I live in the woods and have had both field mice (the ugly generic looking ones) and the house mouse which are the cute ones with big ears that you don't really want to kill. I use the snap traps when i need to.
@@TheKingOfInappropriateComments Snakes in the ceiling sounds scary. Please let me know if you have any questions about how to deal with those sorts of issues. It sounds like you are on top of things, but let me know if I can be of service. Be well my friend.
Just a friendly corn snake that stopped by to assist and then left. Came back again a year later for a followup inspection (lunch) and treatment.@@GuysPestSolutions I'd love to hear your ideas on the multicolored asian ladybeetle though.
@@TheKingOfInappropriateComments I can help with the ladybeetles, but first let me know if this is an inside or outside issue. I'm guessing inside, but I never like to assume. Just let me know and I will explain what to do.
I'll have to try marshmallows. I had a lot of luck with peanut butter on the snap traps with the yellow bait pedestal as it's a bit more sensitive than the metal versions. I've seen recommendations for melting a hard candy too, but it was too much work for me.
Thanks Cornelious. The truth is that I do not eat marshmallows very often, so I generally do not have them available when someone asks me to help them with a mouse problem. Most of the time I stop by and just try to use whatever I can find that they already have. More often than not, it's peanut butter and it does work most of the time. Occasionally they do manage to lick it off without setting off the trap, but I usually can get them with it. Marshmallows are pretty much a sure thing, but it's not the only thing. I have also used cheese. That's right. Unlike my dad though, I took some thread and tied the cheese to the trigger. If you tie the bait to the trigger, just about anything will probably work. Thanks for watching.
Hi Guy! thanks for this great video! do you have any video on rat control? it appears that there are large rodents inside the party wall separating from my neighbor in the condo, although I've never seen them. Thank you in advance!
Just like mice, rats are coming in from the outside. So, the first thing you want to do is discourage them from being there in the first place. If you have pets, do not feed them outside and do not leave food or water bowls outside. If you have any bird feeders, then it's a good idea to remove them. While the rats may not make their way up to the bird feeders, the birds can be quite messy and some of that bird feed may find its way to the ground, where the rats may eat it. Make sure that all your trash cans are covered, and they have no holes in them. In other words, make sure there are no food or water sources that they can get into. Next, walk around the outside of your house and seal any openings that you find. You can use a commonly available caulk for small holes and Stuff It for larger openings. I will give you a link where you can buy Stuff It. If you have any trees or large plants that are touching the house, then trim them back and make sure that you have no trees that are overhanging the house. Now that you've discouraged them from coming into the house, it's time to eliminate the population outside. To do this, you need to use a bait and bait stations. I will provide you with links to these products. For the best results, place the bait stations directly against the foundation of the house and space them about every 15 to 20 feet apart, where you are seeing the activity. You need to check the bait stations every day and replenish the bait as needed, until you are no longer seeing the bait being eaten. If you encounter rats that are inside the house, then the approach is pretty similar to outside the house. You want to start by removing all the food sources. Take your trash out every day, before you go to bed, so that there is no trash left for them to get into during the night. Also, make sure that you don't leave any dishes lying around either. Pet food and water dishes should not be left out overnight. I do not recommend that you use a poison inside the house, because you don't want dead rats smelling up the house. Therefore, I recommend using traps. I think that snap traps work the best, and they're very affordable. However, if you wish to be kind to the rats, then you can also use traps that will catch the rats alive, and you can release them someplace outside. You can find a good selection of these on Amazon. Just like for mice, you want to place the snap traps next to the walls, with the bait facing the wall. If you're using the traps that catch them alive, then you want the opening to the trap to be near the wall. The traps I am recommending can be reused. Always wear rubber gloves when handling traps because the rats may avoid a trap that has human smell on it. After you catch a rat, you can dispose of it in the trash and then rinse off the trap with a garden hose for reuse. Do not over clean the traps because you want to leave a little of the rat smell on the trap. That will make the other rats more likely to approach the trap. Be sure to check the traps at least daily or more often because dead rats in the trap will cause other rats to avoid the trap. I do not recommend feeding rats and mice to cats because they may have a disease or parasites that can be passed along. Place the traps at 10-foot intervals along the wall and focus on areas where you think there's activity. Since you will be reusing the traps, I recommend that you use peanut butter as a bait because it is easily cleaned off when you wash the traps. If you find that the rats are licking off the peanut butter without setting off the trap, then you can try a little bit of marshmallow. It is much harder to clean it off the traps, but it is practically impossible for the rats to get it off without setting off the traps. If you have children, I'm kind of guessing that you would prefer that they not get their fingers stuck in a trap. I'm also guessing that you would prefer that the traps not snap down on the noses of any pets. To avoid this problem, you can place the traps inside of a bait station. These stations lock so that kids cannot get into them. They also make the traps more effective because rats like confined spaces. Just use one trap for each bait station. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Stuff It: www.solutionsstores.com/stuf-fit-copper-mesh Rat bait: www.solutionsstores.com/eratication-rodent-bait Bait stations: www.solutionsstores.com/solutions-rodent-bait-station Snap traps: www.solutionsstores.com/big-snap-e-plastic-rat-trap
We currently have a mice problem in our house and have placed traps, glue boards, and even boxes that hold poison for the mice to go into. Nothing has worked so far. Our cameras set up show the mice avoiding all the areas the sense traps. Not a sign n or mice has been caught. What do you suggest in this situation where the mice are avoiding all the traps set?
The very first thing you need to do is to stop the mice from going in and out of the house. One of the reasons they are not bothering with baits or traps is because they are not hungry. This is the case because they are most likely going in and out of the house every night. Therefore, there is most likely an entry point for them somewhere around the house. So, you must seal up this entry point before you can hope to catch the ones inside. If you were having trouble finding the entrance point outside, then buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different sides of the house until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground. After you have the entrance point sealed up, then make sure that the trap triggers are right up against the walls where the activity is. If the mice cannot get out of the house, and if you give them no other food source, then they will take the bait. Just make sure that they have no other food available to them any place in the house. That means you want to have all pet bowls cleaned out every night, no dishes in the sink, or any other food items that they can get into. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
If you don’t seal the hole, crack that they are coming in, all the poisons and traps won’t help you get RID of them. It’s like having your house robbed on a daily basis but you don’t lock or close the door!!!
Great video with lots of useful information. I noticed mice outside coming into the brick weeping holes. I bought some covers and thinking about covering them around the house. Exterminator put small the bait stations inside. I called 4 different businesses and all suggested the bait poison boxes for inside. Those holes you pass cable through are a concern because they may be coming in from there. Any advice at all?
I never recommend baiting inside the home because the mice can die inside, and it can smell for a long time. Traps are a better bet. You need to seal up the entry points outside or the problem will not go away. I have never seen them come through weep holes before, but you can buy weep hole plugs that will allow the water to escape, but will prevent pests from entering. They are available on Amazon. Mice often enter through gaps around pipes and wires. Please let me know if you cannot find the entry points and I will give you further guidance on it. To obtain my trick for finding entry points, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and ask for the trick to finding mouse entry points. TH-cam usually deletes it when I provide it here. Please note that I am on vacation, and I will not be home until June 11. I cannot read email until I return, so it may take a few days to respond to your request. I will get caught up on email just as quickly as I can, so please be patient with me. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Our backyard is connected to a feild. Both of our sheds and chicken coop were infested with mice, well our dogs and cats took care of them outside, but now they have moved in. We dont leave food out or anything yet every morning I find mouse poop in our kitchen drawers. Im so disgusted right now. I feel like we are doomed.
The only way mice can get into your house is from the outside. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is seal up any openings in the outside where they may be getting in. It can be very difficult to find these openings. If you have looked for those openings and cannot find them, then buy a critter cam from Amazon. You can get them for around $50. Just set the credit cam on a small tripod that is aimed toward the side of the house and leave it there overnight. Mice usually travel at night and the critter cam has night vision. In the morning, just check for activity. If the mice are entering from that side of the house, you will see the exact entry point. If there is no activity, then move the camera to another location. Eventually, you will probably discover where they are getting it. At that point, just seal it up. After that, then simply trap the mice that are inside of the house. I hope that helps. Be will my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutionsthank you so much!! I’d never thought to do that and will buy one immediately. Do you have an affiliate link where I can support you?
A mouse comes in my house and it's dead. I have spent too much time cleaning their messes. I have spent too much money replacing food they have damaged.
I found the mice were entering by climbing up through the siding cornice pieces . I put steel wool in the bottom entry space and that stopped the problem.
Good job. Steel wool works great, but it rusts. You may want to change over to Suf-Fit or similar product. There are all sorts of imitations on Amazon that are very cost effective. These products are made of copper, so no rust. Be well my fiend and congratulations on finding how the mice are getting in.
Thank you Sir! Don’t even know where to start 😱😭😭😭. Definitely finding droppings and hear movements when in bed or walking around the house 😢😡. God help me 🙏✝️
If you are seeing mouse droppings, then I think it's reasonable to conclude that you have mice. All you need to do is follow the advice in the video and that should end your problem. The mice are almost always coming in from the outside, so you must seal up those entry points. If you cannot find the entry points, then please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I have a trick for finding the entry points, but TH-cam keeps deleting it on me, so I can't give it to you here. Also email me if you live in an apartment or some other building where you cannot seal openings in the outside. I hope that helps. Be well Michelle.
@@GuysPestSolutions You are so awesome and I’m so scared, disgusted and overwhelmed! I am by myself 😢. TY so very much for all your help and info! God bless you🙏✝️
@@michellestlicitra9105 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Don't worry. You've got this. It's going to be okay. Be well Michelle.
I was sitting in a coffee shop once, and i watched a mouse squeeze under the glass door. It was -40 outside, so he or she had some motivation. I guess there may have been about 1/8th of an inch space under the door. They can flatten their skeleton and squeeze through just about any opening.
I like the idea of using marshmallows. For years now I have used chocolate chips because they are hard enough but the mouse will set off the trap on the first bite
I have never tried chocolate chips, but I can tell you that there is no way I am going to share my chocolate chips with a mouse. Lol. I like them way too much for that. The chocolate chips I mean, not the mice. I am something of a chocoholic. My wife is always telling me that I eat way too much of it. I suppose she's right, but it's my only vice. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching. Great comment.
I look forward to your video help with RATS...I KNOW FOR SURE. Our problem began with my neighbor in front of my house on a cul-de-sac. She had chickens, small pony, other animals. Her house was grown over with foliage, weeds etc. She sold out and they bushwhacked the place. Then our problem began. My niece is trying her best. Making progress. But man they are big. The babies I've found are bigger that mice... they were dying when I found them on my kitchen floor. So yes I look forward to the rat video... 🤗
Hi Ronnelle. Wow! That's quite the problem you have there. Okay, don't wait for my rat video. It will be a couple of months before I can get to it. For now, do exactly what I explain in the mouse video with regard to building out the rats. That is the first and most important step. Next you want to trap the ones in the house, if there are any. It works pretty much like mice, but you need larger traps. Then, get several bait stations from Amazon, DoMyOwn.com, or Solutions Pest & Lawn. I will put a link below for one from Amazon, but you can use any bait station you like. Then get rat bait. There are any number of them available and I will put a link below for that as well. Again, you can get it from the same places. Just be sure that the bait is in block form and has a hole up the middle. The baiting is for the exterior of your home. Place the traps about 15 feet apart where you are seeing activity. You may see rat trails through the grass and maybe even rat holes. You are going to need several bait stations and you need to check them daily to make sure that the bait is not gone. Baits work slowly, so you need to keep feeding them. Finally, clean up the outside of your home. By that I mean, be sure that all the brush is cut down neatly, don't put pet food or water outside, and make sure that trash cans are tightly covered with no holes in the side. You want to deny them any food source or places to easily hide on your property. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching. Bait stations: smile.amazon.com/Mouse-Bait-Stations-Eco-Pro/dp/B07PFR7CJJ/ref=sr_1_14?crid=18PCV0I1LDXAD&dchild=1&keywords=eradication+bait+block&qid=1614813203&sprefix=eradication+bait%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-14 Bait: smile.amazon.com/Tomcat-All-Weather-Bait-Chunx/dp/B000HHOALG/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=eradication+bait+block&qid=1614813711&sr=8-9
Love your videos! Thanks for your service, both here and in the armed services. I have a 1.5 story Cape Cod style home and I’ve noticed mice/rat activity in the attic spaces and eaves of the upper floor. Do these critters climb well? It seems odd that I see evidence of them up high but nothing on the main level. Thanks in advance for your guidance!
Yes, rats and mice can climb. They have sharp claws that help them grip surfaces, and their tails help them balance. Rats are particularly good climbers, and they can climb up smooth surfaces, such as walls and pipes. Mice are not as good climbers as rats, but they can still climb up rough surfaces. Rats and mice are often found on the upper floor, because they can climb up the walls or through small holes in the eaves. There are a few reasons why rats and mice might be in your upper floor and not the main floor of your home: Food: The upper floor may offer a good source of food for rats and mice. They may find food in stored items, such as birdseed or pet food. Shelter: The upper floors are often quieter and not used as much, which provides rats and mice with a safer place to live. They may also find nesting materials in the walls and roof, such as insulation. Warmth: The upper floors are often warmer than other areas of the home, which is especially important for rats and mice during the winter months. Access: Rats and mice are very good at finding and exploiting entry points into homes. They may find small holes in the roof or walls, or they may chew through wood or other materials to gain access to the attic. The key is figuring out how they are getting in and then seal it up. Buy a critter camera from Amazon and set it up on a tripod outside overnight, facing one side of the house. Set the sensitivity to maximum. In the morning, you may see how they are getting in. Do this for each side of the house. After sealing up the holes, then trap the ones inside. Let me know if you have a rat problem outside and I will tell you how to deal with it. Be well my friend.
No live traps for me . . . they'll just keep coming back and destroy my cars in the barn. Lots of field mice in the country. I use Victor Quick Kill traps. They are extremely effective and kill quickly, plus the bait is usually still there for a few more rounds. I use peanut butter, which attracts them very much. They have trap doors that partially cover the bait, so when the mouse is trapped it is usually on top of the door and other mice can't get the bait so they go to the other traps I have set.
When living in ARKANSAS in the early 90s, I used Decon with GREAT success. What I didn't know at the time, was, that you must add a water source next to the Decon. My ARKANSAS new friends told me this. Afterwards, 4 mice in my rented mobile home , bit the dust! I have since found out that DECON is not being sold anymore, because of EPA decision. The new snap shut traps, are as cheap in design, as they are in price. DONT BUY TOMCAT BRAND. ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SET! OH DECON, WHERE HAST THOW GONE! WOE IS ME!! Guess I will get glue traps.
Dealing with what I believe is a mouse or mice in the attic above the room I sleep in (random electrical pop sounds at night 1-2x). Currently have a pest control service bait stations once a month and they suggest to rehabilitate the whole attic and re-insulate. They can not pinpoint a point of entry looking on the outside. Have only caught one mouse in a trap door trap in the past 16 months and have numerous snap traps, sticky paper and now mint oil soaked cotton balls on the perimeter of the attic. Should I proceed with the $5.7k attic rehabilitation cost, or try my own bait/bait stations in addition to the existing bait stations?
You do not need to do anything to the attic. Even if you do that, it won't stop the mice. They are coming in from the outside and you must find the entry points. I have a solution for that, but TH-cam will not allow me to post it here. For some reason they keep deleting it. Perhaps because it is prewritten and I am just pasting it in. So, if you email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, I will give you the secret to finding the entry points. You can do this yourself and it's not hard at all. After you locate the entry points, then just seal them up as shown in the video you watched. You are going to save over 5 thousand dollars. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Great video, informative. Easy subscription. I noticed you respond to others so im shooting my shot... ceiling mice. I set some traps a month ago and got two mice then nothing else. Im remodeling my bathroom and i tore out the old ceiling and a bunch of mouse droppings fell out. Ew, i know. They were hard but gray. Couldnit be from a past infestation or have they just flown under the radar till now. Advice?
It would be hard for me to say if you have inactive infestation without inspecting. My guess is that, if you caught two mice a month ago, then you probably still have mice. They may or may not be in the ceiling. The most important thing to do is to build them out. Most of the time mice are entering and exiting the building all the time. Usually at night. So, it is important to find the entry points. If you cannot find the entry points, then buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different sides of the house until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
This is 100% on point however It only applies to at least about 99% of the structures I own a pest control company and I do exclusions for the most part because a lot of companies are not doing it keep in mind most companies will only go as far as putting baits sticky traps and that's it We're probably one of the only companies in In Northern Virginia that does full detail exclusions Reason I say 99% is because in DC for example these older row homes are attached to each other on the roof there's so many ways they can come in , keep in mind mice can also come from underground area such as crawl spaces which can run along entire rows of structures some have rock foundations So in truth the age of the house and the type of structure will dictate how effective exclusion would be if you are in a detached home with a solid foundation what he said applies essentially anything made from brick or poured concrete is very straightforward A times mice are not even coming from the foundation they can come straight from a pipe that has been left open or uncapped So it's not basically always from the exterior but a lot of times it is again depending on what type of structure in the area.
You are correct. Keep in mind though that this video was only intended for single family homes, so I don't think the video will even cover 99%. So, you are being generous with that percentage. It can be problematic to build out mice from apartments, condos, townhomes, and all that sort of thing. Anytime you do not have control of all sides of the home can be problematic. It is way easier to build out the mice from the outside rather than the inside. As you know, if you don't seal up the entry points, they will most likely just keep coming in. Good for you that you take the time to do the job correctly. I agree that a lot of pest controllers just bait and trap. It's somewhat disheartening because they give the industry a bad name. Thanks for watching and keep up the good work. Be well my friend.
I threw and knived a norway rat one time. It was really big! I had brushhog my side yard and some cat was out there looking down at something and acting like it was confused as to whether it wanted to attack it. I went out there and saw it was a very large norway rat. I had pulled out a buck knife and I threw it and went into it. It had me puzzled because it did not appear to be intimidated by neither me nor the cat. It hadn't been injured by my mowing the area it was at either.
@@GuysPestSolutions Oh yeah, I watched it, and I have heard of some rat experiences there. Thanks for your service! I was in the Army artillery in the 1990's and helped train Fire Direction Corp Army trainees and Marines.
That works, but it's a painful death for the mice and not recommended for inside use. If you poison mice inside, then they may die inside as well and that can lead to odor problems and even fly problems. The best thing you can do is to find the entry points and seal them. If you are having a problem finding the entry points, then email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will share a way to do it. It's not hard at all. TH-cam will not allow me to post it here for some reason. I think they don't like it when I copy and paste responses. I hope that helps. Be well Sherry.
The problem is CATCHING the mouse, I used all kinds of traps glue, bottle, .... it is a smart little mouse taht wont take the baite , probably released from a lab or something. Been battling with the little animal for 4 days now. Going on a hunting mode!
Did you try placing a snap trap in a bait station and placing it so that the entrance is next to a wall where you are seeing mouse droppings? The bait station gives the mouse a sense of security. You can also place the trap in a small cardboard box with a hole cut near the bottom for the mouse to enter. In fact, cut a hole on two sides of the box, so the mouse can enter when walking along the wall from either direction. Give it a try. Be well my friend.
Mission complete! Caught the bugger. Thank you for your recommendations. All that wouldn't have been possible without actually dissapearing for a few days and then come back home and see the results. All the best to you!@@GuysPestSolutions
I have never tried them. I'll bet they work great, but they are a bit too pricey for me. I find that the best thing to do is just seal up the entry points and then use a standard snap trap to eliminate the ones that are inside. If you are having problems finding where they are getting in, I can share the secret with you on how to do it. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy. This is Nancy again. We still have the mouse/mice. We tried the marshmallow. He went for it but we didn't get him. Perhaps there was too much marshmallow on the trigger? How much do you put on it? Very little I would think. He is into making nests again. I hope this doesn't mean baby mice in the future. He is a clever one for sure.
You don't need much marshmallow. Just be sure to jam it into the trigger really well so that they cannot get it out easily. My guess is that this is more than one mouse. You most likely have an opening in the side of the building that you do not know about. I am going to give you the secret to finding the opening in my next comment. If you don't receive it, then TH-cam deleted it and you will need to email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. They do that a lot to me these days. I hope that helps. Be well Nancy.
To find the entry point, just buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different sides of the house until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground. I hope that helps. Be well Nancy. Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
@@GuysPestSolutionsThank you so much for sharing this link! I just went and purchased this. In fact I purchased two because they're on sale! They're normally about $70, but right now they're 40% off, and each one cost me $40! You have to purchase it one item at a time though. I really hope this helps solve my problem because I'm at Wit's end at this point! I'm finally starting to heal after having a 20 lb tumor removed, and I'm trying to take back my house... And that's particularly hard to do with mice! ;-)
@@castingmynetforChrist You are very welcome. I am so sorry that you had such a large tumor removed. I hope you are going to be okay. 20 pounds sounds pretty large. Very scary. Be well my friend.
OK, how about a half of a mini "jet puff" marshmallow, stuffed with a piece of cheese coated with peanut butter pressed on to the trigger of a snap trap? Sounds irresistible !
It's a good idea to change the trap now and then. Like go from a glue trap to a spring trap and so forth. They are smart and the word gets around the mice community to stay away from the traps. Kind of like the 100th monkey syndrome. I am always catching baby mice cause they aren't as smart yet, but I seldom catch the adult mice as they have become house smart.
If you have that many of them, then I recommend building them out. The video explains how to do that. Let me know if you cannot find the point of entry and I will help you out with that. Be well Regina.
Great videos. Can you do some videos of how to inspect for different type of pest and how to treat them? pest such as house ants, spider, cockroach, Termite etc. Some videos on how you run your pest control business would be great too. Thanks
Thanks for the suggestion. As it happens, I am working on a video for inspecting for German cockroaches and the treatment for them. That video is in production and it will take several weeks to get it done. German cockroaches are an insect that you do need to inspect for, but you don't need to inspect for many other species of insects. I always remind people of that old saying that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. So, instead of inspecting for many pests, like ants, spiders, termites, and many others, why not just treat for them? If you watch my videos on DIY General Exterior Pest Control and DIY Termite Treatment you can ensure that you will never get any termites of any type and you will never get any spiders, ants, American cockroaches, wasps, wood boring bees, etc. The treatments are cheap and easy to do. They sure to beat trying to get rid of the pests once you have them. You can be totally bug free for very little money. I will place links below. Now German cockroaches are another story. They can enter from the outside, but often times they enter because you carry them in on your clothes or furniture that you purchase. You can also get them in your luggage from a hotel that you stay in. It's not just you either. If you have a guest over that has them, they may bring them in on their clothes without knowing it. It's the same with bedbugs too and I will eventually get around to a video on that as well. In both cases you need to inspect for them. However, for most pests, I suggest that you just treat for them whether you have them or not. If you hire a pest controller, that's exactly what they will do. If you happen to have ants or something like that, I do have some videos on those treatments already and there will be more coming. Again, thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching. DIY General Exterior Pest Control Video: th-cam.com/video/3ESGJsn3MLk/w-d-xo.html DIY Termite Treatment: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
I'm not a big fan of using cats to catch mice. The truth is that they can't cat them as fast as the mice can multiply. Also, field mice can get a cat sick when they eat it, so I don't think it's the best thing for you pet. I recommend getting rid of the mice another way and feed the cats real cat food. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I'm not a big fan of glue boards. I think snap traps work better and are more humane. That being said, you need to place the glue boards against the walls where you see activity and you should bait them as well. If using snap traps, place them so the trigger side is against the wall. It helps sometimes if you put them in a bait station. Mice like confined spaces where they feel safe. Place the entrance hole of the bait station adjacent to the wall. Bait stations will also protect kids and pets from messing with the glue boards or traps. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Snap trap: www.domyown.com/mini-trex-mouse-trap-p-1303.html Bait station: www.domyown.com/protecta-mouse-bait-stations-p-1284.html?sub_id=81
One got caught in the snap trap tail it dragged the trap yet couldn't dislodge. Caught it trying to go behind some box. Led me to travel route. After we did some remodeling ( unnecessary if you ask me ) it left all kinds of ways since we live above a crawl spaces tgat deal with 10 other homes and leads to outside to planet 🌏 earth. Also ole boy mention cats. I let the door to the crawl space open and I put the cats on payroll with 9lives Meow Mix and Friskies to draw and attract all the alley cats. Then in between feedings Im sure they look for food and stumble on the real reason I got them on payroll. I understand mice naturally know the smells associated with cats and innately know its time to pack up and get out of here asap.
Keep in mind that stray cats come with their own set of problems. Not the least of which is fleas. They may also give birth under your house. Uneaten mouse parts can lead to flies as well. The worst part for me would be the noise. Cats can be quite noisy at times. So, it would not be an options that I would choose, but I suppose it will slow down the mice somewhat. Personally, I would build them out and poison the ones outside. A single feed bait will wipe them out pretty fast. Be well my friend.
Thank you for those kind words and for watching the video. The mice can be coming in all sorts of places that are very hard to find. I came across a video that someone did on this very issue that I thought was pretty smart. He set up a cheap camera that took video of the problem. It showed him where the mice were entering. I will give you a link to his video. You don't need to use the same camera that he did. Any critter camera will work with a small tripod. There are lots of cameras on Amazon for under $50. I hope that helps. Be well Judy. th-cam.com/video/x9_5rp0g6Ro/w-d-xo.html
That will probably work, but here's the thing... The mice or rats are going to die where they please because it's not a super-fast kill. That means they can get into all sorts of places before they die, and the odor can be a problem. This can also create a fly problem. That is why I generally do not use poisons inside the house. Outside is fine. For inside treatment, I think you would be better off using traps and building them out. Now, baking soda is not actually a poison, but it has the same result. Using baking soda instead of poison has the advantage that kids and pets can get into it without much harm. The reason it kills mice and rats is because they don't realize that it is harmful, so they eat it, but they do not have the ability to vomit. The gas it creates in their stomachs can be fatal. Can you imagine dying of stomach gas? It hurts just thinking about it. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
Funny you should mention. I'm just recently am trying this concoction...like the last few days. Am curious how it works. I'm actually using plaster of Paris.
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, TH-cam did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. This method will work for your house. Maybe not so much for a barn. Again, sorry for the delay in answering. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, Great talk. I bought an old farmhouse….. I would see mice constantly…… so I set a trap caught one then two, I started a tally 186 first year. Then 50 something next year. We have an area we don’t use and it’s full of rat/ mouse feces, I started the clean up process but how can I safely remove the rest of the feces and urine smell from wood floors? Thanks in advance.
Clean the floors really well with any detergent you like. After the floors are clean, you can mop them with a 10% bleach solution. One part Clorox to nine parts of water. Add some detergent to break the tensile strength of the water. If this is a finished floor, then test it on a small area that can't be seen to make sure it does not discolor or damage the surface. If this is a floor that you don't care about, then get it nice and wet and let it soak for a couple of minutes. This should neutralize the odor and disinfect it as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, if you get a chance can you breakdown the process of removing urine and feces from wood floors from start to finish. I need a little more detail if you would please and was this part of your extermination process, cleaning up the deep soiled deposits? I like how you talk about DIY to save money if I had the cash I would pay someone but I am like most just enough to cover the mortgage. I finally plugged the holes, I missed this one very important step. Thank you Guy!
@@Irish-eyes-793 Okay. Please tell me a little more about the floors. Are these floors hardwood or soft wood? Are they finished with some sort of sealer? If they are not sealed in any way, are you planning to seal them when you are finished? Will you be sanding them? Just let me know and I will try and give you a detailed answer. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, It's an attach garage that I only store lawn mowers and x-mas stuff so, it is not heated or used that much. The floors are an old style plank hard wood. So its a great place for rodents but I declared war on them. LOL. I was thinking of cleaning and then painting or staining the floors to get rid of unwanted smell and maybe this will drive the rodents out for good. FYI the rat(s) kept taking my mouse traps for their snack, I would find them upstairs with no mouse. So i put a dead mouse behind the rat trap and bam it got his arm and I went in and finished the job. The rat spooked me honestly he showed me his teeth. But he messed with the wrong Irishmen and I am committed. I have almost everything out from upstairs to begin cleaning over the holiday break. But I need your help with doing this safe. I was thinking a wet sweep or semi-wet so know dust can be inhaled, mask and other precautions as well. But I was wondering how the pro's do it! Thanks Guy!
@@Irish-eyes-793 It sounds like you don't care about the floors, so I would mix a solution of 10% Clorox and water. Add any detergent you like to it to break the tensile strength of the water. Just use the amount recommended on the detergent bottle. Pin-Sol would be a good choice. Get a real mop and not a sponge mop. Wet mop the floor with it and make sure that the floor is very wet and kind of work it in with the mop. Do not try to mop up the excess water. Just let it dry naturally. The problem is that the urine has probably soaked into the wood, so you need to let the Clorox solution soak in as well. You may need to repeat this several times. Each treatment should lower the smell more and more. You may not get the odor 100% out, but you may reduce it by 90% or more. After it is nice and dry, then treat the floor with Bora-Care. Mix it 1 to 1 with water using a drill and paint mixer attachment. Pour it into a cheap garden sprayer and spray down all the wood with it. Let that dry for at least 48 hours. I would wait at least 7 days. Then seal it any way you like. If you paint, be sure to use a primer like Kilz before you paint. This will penetrate the wood very well and make the paint hold up a lot better. I will give you a link to the Bora-Care and a video on how to use it. The Bora-Care will not help with the odor, but it will make the wood termite proof. You may as well be proactive with that while you are doing it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Bora-Care video: th-cam.com/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/w-d-xo.html
By trial and error, I started putting peanut butter in a sandwich bag near the corner. Cut a tiny triangle off and pipe it into the hollow in bait holder. They can get to it, but have to work to get any, I no longer bend the holding tab to make them more sensitive. Now to my question. From the smell of it and past scratching in the wall, I think we have a nest. It's on an outside wall and the sill plate doesn't allow easy access from the bottom. Anything we can do to clean that out besides opening up the wall? There is a receptacle possibly in that joist space, as an electrician would taking out the box and working from the top down help any? I've placed traps in the basement on the top of the block, but never seem to catch much, two in two years. It's my gf's house, and she used to have Batzners, but at $40/month, I wasn't impressed. A trail camera will be ordered tonight and set up, in the mean time, off to watch more of your videos. Your willingness to help and suggestions are greatly appreciated, do you have a donate button set up somewhere? I'd also like to thank you and the others in the comments for your service! *edited for fat finger typoss
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I never ask for donations, but videos do cost money to make, so contributions are appreciated. If you would like to make a donation, the best way to do it is to email an Amazon gift card to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. You can purchase them in amounts as little as $1. Unfortunately, removing a wall outlet is not an easy process. Not only are the outlet boxes secured to the studs, but there is typically a wire staple that is holding the wires to the stud. Those staples prevent the box from easily being removed. You can cut through the wall to access the nest, but in most cases, the best thing to do is just leave it there. It sounds like you already know my solution for finding the access points, so I would do that first. Find out where they are getting in, and then seal it up. If the mice have no other means of escape, then they are most likely going to die in the wall. This is only a problem if it starts to create an odor. If you would like to avoid that possibility, then you could get creative. Instead of cutting a hole in the wall that needs to be repaired, you can create a very small hole in the wall that is only about 1/2 in diameter. You can do this by using a drill and one-half inch drill bit. Just drill the hole in the wall void, being careful not to hit any studs. Since you have the exit points on the outside sealed, the mice will have no choice but to exit through that hole you created. Of course, this is bringing them directly into the house. Therefore, you need to limit their ability to escape. Buy a multiple catch trap from Amazon. This type of a trap will capture multiple mice at one time. Place it in a cardboard box and secure that box to the wall with some masking tape. The masking tape will not damage the wall. Make sure there is no route for escape. The side of the box that is attached to the wall should be completely removed, so there is no place for them to hide. Use the smallest box possible and try to tape some cardboard barriers in there to direct the mice to the hole. Make sure that you have food in the trap, and you will be good to go. I recommend that you cut a trap door in the top of the box that you can seal with the masking tape. This way you can have a look inside the box before you remove it from the wall. I mean, you don't want a bunch of mice running out when you remove the box. So, if you look in and there are no mice anywhere, then you can go ahead and remove the box and check to see what is in the trap. Naturally, you want to do this for several days, until you are sure that you got them all. Some people might regard this as out of the box thinking, but it is really in the box thinking. LOL. Keep in mind that it is still possible that some of the babies may be too young to make their way into your trap, so they may still die in the wall. Nevertheless, I think this is about the best you can do without doing too much damage to the wall. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Multiple catch mouse trap: www.amazon.com/Kness-Pro-Ketch-104-0-002-Multiple-Catch/dp/B000FJTWH8/ref=sr_1_32?crid=3EY9X7T0IX678&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.moeFDse6bdTycO80kAFyGU-y93V5SAmNy3qWsqj8KBCwMPrYFG7mgO-oo7JEY_TSwIoJ6GsiPJ3d3nWwBiwXIbTeSAu15OxPJaz4BpYKNbLiPUCrYla-XEMyYq8nWyUhIanbQQctgZK-aaRjq6xPjbwvZLCq6cAqeb8jmy9j6be9Nrh4gKtb_zqfuY2CgHTzir8bpoCMwvgfXr1g59cNVU30jAOB7wvfiCr7xRoWJ3LaxVLTtn8aYrDnHY-GUhC3G67HTH53UssAxU0Fn7LY2fpUFMDAvSfBqZu7vY_fehY.lzDcd1UZMUxxDz65PRMV_abedKHDW8YV7f2vUIxywok&dib_tag=se&keywords=multiple%2Bcatch%2Bmouse%2Btrap&qid=1728396900&sprefix=multiple%2Bcatch%2Bm%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-32&th=1
@@GuysPestSolutions That was the rest of the story I was missing! There's already a decent smell coming through the wall, I wasn't looking to add to it. Maybe a couple of holes above also to drip bleach/cleaner/water mixture in to help speed up the smell removal? Out of the box is right up my alley, as well as your help and videos, gift card will be on it's way momentarily. I also urge others that have been helped to support Guy, not many people willing to share professional experiences like this! Thanks, have a great day, and please don't wait so long for your next vacation!
@@ChrisInWi68 The smell situation is hard. You could try your bleach solution. It may work. If it were me, I would seal the outlets and wall switches on that wall. Go to the plumbing section of any hardware store and buy plumber's putty. You can shape it like Play-Doh, and it never hardens. Remove the covers and just roll up the putty into the shape you need to seal all spaces around the outlet and wall. The excess will squeeze out and is easily wiped off. If you seal up all the openings, the smell may not get out. It's kind of like putting something smelly in a jar. You can't smell it much with the lid on, but boy does it smell when you open it. So, this is kind of like sealing the jar. Thank you so much for those kind words and for the donation. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I feel so miserable and alone. I have at least one mouse. I thought I had all the areas sealed and I’m not sure if all of them were found or if it’s coming in another way, or if it was still inside when I had them sealed and now it’s just living inside. Orkin put down traps where it was likely coming to and from those prior entry points and rodenticide in the walls (prior to sealing). Now I’m afraid it’s just living here and I feel even worse than before getting the holes sealed. I don’t know what to do. I feel like throwing up every second and I am blasting music 24/7 and I’m terrified. I don’t know where it’s going. I saw it in my living room earlier. Before I sealed the holes I only saw it in my kitchen. Pest control only comes to the apartment complex once per week. They come tomorrow. I don’t want to be left alone any longer with this issue.
I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I can feel your fear. The problem with having mice in an apartment complex is that, to stop them from coming in, you should really seal the outside of the building. As a tenant you cannot do that, so the best you can do is to try to seal them out from the inside of the apartment. This is not easy to do because a mouse can squeeze through an opening about one quart of an inch in diameter. The pest controller may or may not have found all the openings outside. Since you cannot trust that you need to take mattress into your own hands. It sounds like you did a pretty good job sealing as many openings as you could find inside the apartment. Let's just go through the list though to make sure that you catch all the possible areas. Start with the entry door to the apartment. Make sure there are no openings around the door. It is very common to have a gap under the door, or very near to the bottom of the door on one of the sides. If you have a friend shine a flashlight from the outside, along the edges of the door, while it is shut, then you can easily see if there are any gaps around the door. If there are, you can purchase items from Amazon that will allow you to seal these areas. You also want to check under all the sinks to make sure that there are no gaps around the pipes. Sometimes in apartments there may be gaps around the outlets or switches. This can happen when the outlet or switch was not installed properly. Check to make sure that all the faceplates are tight against the wall. Also check around light fixtures and ceiling fans. Open all the cabinets and make sure there are no holes behind any of them. To do this, you may need to pull all the drawers out of the base cabinets. Be sure to check behind all the furniture to make sure that there are no large gaps under the baseboards. Remember, a mouse can get through a very small opening, so you can leave no stone unturned. After you are certain that you have everything sealed that can possibly be sealed, then you need to go after the ones that are trapped in your apartment. As I explain in my video, I think the most efficient way to do this is with a snap trap. The key though is that you must place them properly. I would not trust the pest control company to get it right. You need to look for evidence of mouse activity, like mouse droppings or areas where they may have been gnawing on something. Also look for nesting material and listen for sounds of activity as well. After you have identified areas where you think the mice may be active, then set the snap traps so that the trigger is facing the wall. Mice like to travel right up against the wall, so you want that mousetrap set right against the wall. I always try peanut butter first as a bait, but if you find that they are licking it off, switch to marshmallow. Since mice need to eat, do not allow them any other food source, other than the traps. Make sure that you have all food in airtight containers, and do not leave any dishes in the sink overnight. Take the trash out every day, or get a trash can with a sealed lid. If they can find no other food source in your apartment, and they cannot escape from the apartment, then they will have no choice but to seek out the food in the traps. Even though mice are quite timid and really no threat to people, I cannot stand them either, so those things really need to go. I hope these suggestions are of some help to you. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi, thank you for your comment and video, I'm not the original commenter but I was wondering how many traps would you reccomend per mouse? And, what if the activity is underneath/inside my oven (with no defined walls)? My town-house is currently infested with mice and it is driving me nuts! I'm very close to calling a proffesional but wanted to see what I could do as a last ditch effort. Your video was very informative, thank you!@
@@DuhPhok Multiple unit buildings, like townhomes, always present a problem with pest control. That is because you cannot control what your neighbors are doing, and you share walls. As you learned in the video, the first line of defense against mice is to build them out. You need to seal all the openings where a mouse can get in. Since a mouse can get through an opening as small as a quarter of an inch, it becomes somewhat challenging in a multi-unit building. Normally, we seal up the openings from the outside, but with a multi-unit building this can become problematic. Therefore, you need to start by finding all of the possible entryways into your town home. One of the most obvious ways, but most overlooked ways, for mice to get in is right through the front door. Check to make sure there are no gaps around the entrance doors. It is not unusual for the weather seal around the door to be compromised, or the door sweep at the bottom of the door. Always check under the sink and make sure that there are no cracks or crevices around pipes. Check around the stove for cracks and crevices. If the stove is electric, then there may be an opening around the outlet where it plugs in. If it's gas, there may be an opening around the gas pipe. Go around the entire unit and check for outlets that were installed improperly. When you see a gap between the outlet plate and the wall, then you need to seal that. You should always remove all drawers from cabinets and check to make sure there are no openings anywhere under those cabinets. It is also a good idea to remove the dishwasher and check that space as well. You also want to check around all baseboards and make sure that everything is sealed tightly. Finally, don't forget to check the attic. One of the most common ways for mice to get into a townhome is from an adjoining unit in the attic. When you have a lot of mice, there's a good chance that they are getting in from either the outside or from an adjoining unit. Since they may be coming from the outside, you should also check the outside of the walls that you own, and see if you can find any openings there as well. After you have everything sealed as well as you possibly can, then it is not a question of how many traps you use. It's more of a question of how you use them. You know that you have activity in and around the stove, so that would be the first place I would set my traps. You said that there are no defined walls, but I do not know what that means. What you need to do is place the traps so that the trigger is facing the wall, or the path where they will be traveling. Sometimes you can place the trap between the stove and the wall. You may not be able to put the trigger facing the wall, but that's okay because there will be a confined space for the mice to travel. If you cannot slip the trap between the stove and the wall, you may be able to pull the stove out a little bit to allow you to do that. There is a very good chance that these guys are moving around under the stove, so you need to offer them a meal that is right next to the stove. Obviously, you want to make sure that stove is squeaky clean, and you don't want to leave any food for them. The only food that should be available to them should be what is in the traps. It is okay to use more than one trap around the stove, but I don't think you need a lot of them. Just two or three should be fine. Also check the rest of your unit for activity. Look for mouse droppings, nesting material, and that sort of thing. If you find anything like that, then this would also be a good area to set traps. Naturally, you should never leave pet food or water bowls out overnight, because that would be assisting the mice. Always make sure that there is nothing for them to eat or drink, so they will have no choice but to go after the bait. Let me know if you find activity in the attic. I normally do not use a bait inside because I don't want dead bodies laying around, but it could make sense to use a bait in the attic. So, if you have activity in the attic, I would be happy to recommend a bait for you. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@DuhPhok Multiple unit buildings, like townhomes, always present a problem with pest control. That is because you cannot control what your neighbors are doing, and you share walls. As you learned in the video, the first line of defense against mice is to build them out. You need to seal all the openings where a mouse can get in. Since a mouse can get into it opening as small as a quarter of an inch, it becomes somewhat challenging in a multi-unit building. Normally, we seal up the openings from the outside, but with a multi-unit building this can become problematic. Therefore, you need to start by finding all the possible entryways into your town home. One of the most obvious ways, but most overlooked ways, for mice to get in is right through the front door. Check to make sure there are no gaps around the entrance doors. It is not unusual for the weather seal around the door to be compromised, or the door sweep at the bottom of the door. Always check under the sink and make sure that there are no cracks or crevices around pipes. Check around the stove for cracks and crevices. If the stove is electric, then there may be an opening around the outlet where it plugs in. If it's gas, there may be an opening around the gas pipe. Go around the entire unit and check for outlets that were installed improperly. When you see a gap between the switch plate and the wall, then you need to seal that. You should always remove all drawers from cabinets and check to make sure there are no openings anywhere under those cabinets. It is also a good idea to remove the dishwasher and check that space as well. You also want to check around all baseboards and make sure that everything is sealed tightly. Finally, don't forget to check the attic. One of the most common ways for mice to get into a townhome is from an adjoining unit in the attic. When you have a lot of mice, there's a good chance that they are getting in from either the outside or from an adjoining unit. Since they may be coming from the outside, you should also check the outside of the walls that you own and see if you can find any openings there as well. After you have everything sealed as well as you possibly can, then it is not a question of how many traps you use. It's more of a question of how you use them. You know that you have activity in and around the stove, so that would be the first place I would set my traps. You said that there are no defined walls, but I do not know what that means. What you need to do is place the traps so that the trigger is facing the wall, or the path where they will be traveling. Sometimes you can place the trap between the stove and the wall. You may not be able to put the trigger facing the wall, but that's okay because there will be a confined space for the mice to travel. If you cannot slip the trap between the stove and the wall, you may be able to pull the stove out a little bit to allow you to do that. There is a very good chance that these guys are moving around under the stove, so you need to offer them a meal that is right next to the stove. Obviously, you want to make sure that the stove is squeaky clean, and you don't want to leave any food for them. The only food that should be available to them should be what is in the traps. It is okay to use more than one trap around the stove, but I don't think you need a lot of them. Just two or three should be fine. Also check the rest of your unit for activity. Look for mouse droppings, nesting material, and that sort of thing. If you find anything like that, then this would also be a good area to set traps. Naturally, you should never leave pet food or water bowls out overnight, because that would be assisting the mice. Always make sure that there is nothing for them to eat or drink, so they will have no choice but to go after the bait. Let me know if you find any activity in the attic. I normally do not use a bait inside because I don't want dead bodies lying around, but it could make sense to use a bait in the attic. So, if you have activity in the attic, I would be happy to recommend a bait for you. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much for your amazing and detailed response. You truly care for people. I’m very grateful for your help. How can I get over the fear of finding them? Of using my kitchen (even going into my kitchen)? I’m living out of my dishwasher. I am paralyzed and cannot efficiently do my chores (especially my laundry which is in the kitchen space). I even fear checking traps. I got two of them- found out they were harboring behind the fridge, but it took forever to get them and eventually got traps in the right place. Also have been sure that all entry points have been sealed (prior to catching them). A couple weeks later and I’m almost positive I can hear one scampering around sometimes and I’m at a loss as to where it could be hiding (even though I don’t want to check). I have not seen new droppings out in the open. Even before catching the two mice there weren’t a lot of droppings. I am so miserable. How can I overcome this fear? What could be happening regarding not being able to find/catch these mice?
What is the 100 percent way to get rid of them? We all know the obvious sealing holes.those metle traps are not that good. I bought 2. I got much better traps on Amazon surprised you do not know about them,
There are an endless number of different traps you can get for mice. I find that the regular old snap traps work fine if you use them correctly. You need to use marshmallow as the bait and you need to place the trigger next to the wall, where you are seeing the activity. They have never failed me. They are cheap and easy to use. I have used some others and they do work fine as well. Just more expensive. So, it doesn't really matter what trap you use. If you find one that you like, then just go with that. The key is though that you need to stop them from coming in. If you don't do that, then you will never end the problem. Let me know if you cannot find where they are coming in and I will explain how I do it. Keep in mind that a mouse can get through a hole that is 1/4 inch wide. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
The first thing you need to do is to stop them from coming in. Please watch the part of the video that explains how to do that. If you cannot figure out how they are getting in, then let me know and I will give you some tips on how to figure it out. After you build them out, then you can treat the ones that are left inside, by trapping them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
It's the same thing. If you want to get rid of the mice, then you need to repair the house. That's just the reality of the situation. Be well my friend.
Noticed that I had a mouse about a month ago. Then noticed that there's mouse poop in and behind my kitchen drawers. Mounds of shit. Realized that every kitchen utensil has mouse crap on it. Killed the mouse. Freaking out how do I get rid of mice and mouse shit. I can't move. Please help me. I refuse to cook or eat . I'm grossed out.
@@jackieblue787 Perfect. Single family homes are easy. Just follow the advice in the video. If you cannot find the entry points, then write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will give you the secret. TH-cam deletes it when I post it here. You can clean the mess with any household cleaner in a bucket. If you like, you can follow up with a 1 to 10 mixture of bleach and water to eliminate odor. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@irenemastroddi9722 I am so sorry that you're having this problem. The mice are almost always coming in from the outside, although in an apartment building, it is possible they are coming from and adjoining apartment. Nevertheless, the problem is the same. In a single-family dwelling, we would seal the openings on the outside of the building, which are usually pretty easy to find. Since you are renting an apartment, it is not practical to seal the openings on the outside of the building. That means you need to find where they are getting in from the inside. This is not always easy to do. Mice can get through an opening the size of a dime. A good place to start though is to look any place there are pipe penetrations. You will find these under the sinks, behind the refrigerator, behind the stove, and that sort of thing. Go around the perimeter of the apartment and look for any opening, no matter how small. You can usually seal them up with a little bit of steel wool. Don't forget to check the outlets. If you have gaps around the outlet covers, you can seal those outlets with plumbers' putty. This is available at any hardware store in the plumbing section. It works a lot like Play-Doh. It never hardens and you can mold it into any shape you wish. Simply remove the outlet cover, mold the plumbers' putty around the outlet cover and around the outlet itself. Then push the outlet cover back into place and the excess will squeeze out. Put the screw back in and then simply remove the excess plumber's putty and you will have a nice, neat job. Since the plumber's party does not harden, the outlet cover can be easily removed if it needs to be serviced in the future. I hope that helps. Be well Irene.
Initially, as I listened to you, I found myself saying "get to the point..." But quickly I realized your story telling is charming, your lack of cruelty is heart warning, and attention to detail is admirable. You rock! Thank you.
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. I usually get people telling me to get to the point or they tell me that I'm a nice person and they like the way I do videos. You are the first person to tell me both at the same time. Sounds like a very honest opinion. Very much appreciated. I did get the message from others about getting to the point and my newer videos do just that. The mouse video was one of my earlier works and I was very new to TH-cam. While the advice in the video is very sound, I did not understand at the time that folks wanted fast and to the point. I have started to remake some of my older videos to shorten them up, but it will take some time to get them all done. The mouse video is on the list, but I have some others that I need to get to first. I do listen to what folks like you tell me and I take the feedback very seriously. The truth is though, that I do miss sharing the stories because that is more consistent with my personality. What you saw in the mouse video was pure me. The newer videos are much shorter, but do not reflect my personality as well. Oh well. Thanks again for that very kind comment. Be well my friend.
If I may suggest the following: Be you boo-boo... I found it particularly "charming" when you realized how you eventually felt about laughing at your mother's fear of mice. In my humble opinion, the world at this time needs to hear and or be reminded of these simple moral courtesies. And you pulled it off very well. So, keep the stories with the moral of the story at their end... perhaps keep them short, +/- 1-2 minutes. Perhaps write them out first, then edit them a couple times or more...or perhaps, you could manually speed up the video during your stories. That might be the perfect compromise...bottom line, if people need to, they can take responsibility for their time management and fast forward past the stories. Be well. Anthony.
@@GuysPestSolutions
@@Too-z3z Thank you so much. I will keep that in mind. Be well Anthony.
For the mice that are completely able to avoid all the other traps, after going nuts trying all sorts of traps, which the mouse (which must have had a long neck, and a gentle tongue to get the bait off of both snap and glue traps) always managed to avoid. So I got a bunch of those folding glue traps that fold into a box, but cut the edges off and stuck a bunch of them together to make a 36" long glue trap which I lay across a doorway where they had to cross, and although I kept having to cut out the part where the mice got stuck, at least I found a way to catch the little ba*tards.
My goodness Guy, I didn't expect to hear you speak with such compassionate understanding about other being afraid of mice. The fact that you understand your mother's paralyzing fear of mice speaks volumes about who you are as a person. I am one of those people as well. I have tried to tell myself, they are so much smaller than myself and that they cannot really hurt me, but it does not work. Thank the good Lord, I haven't seen many in my home over the years, but when I did, I was literally frozen with fear. Thank you so much for not only your recommendations, but also your compassionate understanding of another person's fear. God bless you! I subscribed because I would like to hear more about what you have to say. 🥰
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well Tona.
A good way to find cracks or holes in unfinished basements or crawlspace walls is to enter them during daylight hours and look for areas where light is shining through from the outside.
I've caught a lot of mice with a snap trap with the yellow pad facing the wall. No bait just clean. Mice use the edge of a wall like a highway and step on the pad.
I break a little piece of dry spaghetti off and wedge it in the little hole on the trigger plate then cover it in peanut butter. The mouse licks the peanut butter then starts to gnaw on the spaghetti noodle. Has proved pretty effective for me.
Lizards??
If you have lizards, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and tell me where you live. Also, describe the lizards to me and send a photo if you can. Try to get the photo close up and very well focused. Let me know if these guys are getting in the house or if it is an outside problem only. Be well my friend.
A half peanut wired on to the trigger of a snap trap works very well. I use copper wire that is stiff enough to be able to push through the peanut, but a thin needle works to make a hole in the peanut if the wire is too thin to be able to penetrate through.
If you have mice or rats inside your walls, a mosquito coil can be used to drive them out. It takes some ingenuity to get the smoke into the cavity, but it can be done safely using a steel container to burn the coil in, and a small fan to blow the smoke in through an electric outlet or even if you have to make a hole to be repaired after the rats flee. The smell seems to linger inside the wall for over a year.
That's a good idea with strapping a peanut to the trap. I'm gonna give that a try 👍
@@ltdan8671 I have never had it fail.
Thanks for the info! I’ve been trying to get mice to stop coming into the attic for two years. My pest company filled some holes but we can’t find any other openings. With cold weather setting in they are back. I’m going to try your trail cam suggestion next. Seems like a clever idea!!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Hopefully, the camera will do the trick for you. Be well my friend.
Why release a mouse back into the wild that can reproduce another litter in a very short time. Just saying.
Apparently, there are quite a few people who just cannot bring themselves to kill these little guys. I must admit that I am not one of them. I do respect though that some people would rather catch and release, and that will work out fine, if you make sure that they cannot get back into the house. For me though, I have four very simple rules about killing anything. I will let absolutely anything live, as long as it:
1. Does not regard me as food.
2. Does not wish to harm me in any way.
3. Does not invade my personal space. That is to say, it does not come into my house.
4. Does not make messes that I have to clean up.
Anything that does not violate those rules gets to live. That means I will tolerate field mice that are smart enough to stay outside. As much as I hate snakes, I will let them live, as long as they are not poisonous. However, I will not allow things like rats to exist anywhere on my property. So far, this arrangement has worked out pretty well.
Thank you so much for the comment. Be well Sunny.
Snakes love them…
Yes nothing friendly about spreading disease in a home around kids pets and adults.
Make sure mice don't get into your walls and ceiling as they can chew through electrical wiring and cause a fire .
I had a neighbor who did that. Mouse ran right back into the house.
Your mom reminded me of my mom. I never seen my mom jump so high. Love your videos. I am also an exterminator for 16 years.
Thank you so much. That is so nice of you to say and I am humbled that another exterminator would like my videos. I do hope that you subscribe because I am now in the planning stages of doing one on German cockroaches. As you know, the general thinking in pest control is that it is pretty much impossible to eliminate German cockroaches. The gold standard has always been to get a 90 percent knock down and keep returning to the client for follow-up treatments, so that the customer will never "see" any roaches, but we know that they are still breading away in places. The truth about German cockroaches is that they are shy and nocturnal, so if you see one, then you really have thousands of them. Well, I have a way to totally exterminate them 100 percent. It isn't cheap, it isn't fast, and it isn't easy, but it IS possible. I not only did it for homes, but entire hospitals as well. Unlike my other videos, this one will not only be targeted for do it yourselfers, but also professional pest controllers who would like to offer this type of service. The only problem I have is that it is going to take me weeks to get it done because there is a lot to it. I am trying to figure out a way to simplify it, but I'm not quite there yet. Anyway, you sound like someone that may be interested in this. If so, then stay tuned. I will get it done just as soon as I can. Thanks again for watching. I am so pleased that you like what I do.
Certain essential oils will repl mice. Peppermint and Eucalyptus are two of the strongest ones, they also don't like Clove, Cinnamon, and Lavender, but these probably aren't quite as effective. Best to use a combo of at least two, so they don't get used to it.
I tried cinnamon, spread a very dusting on the floor around where I had seen them running through the bedroom. Then one night, I was reading on my bed, and saw mom mouse walk nice and slow, and SAT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CINNAMON! Then cleaned her mouse face with the front feet that had been walking in the cinnamon. Same problem with Cayenne pepper, neither bothered mousy at all.
@@d.e.b.b5788 Essential oils are a MUCH more powerful and concentrated smell than the powdered stuff.
Have you used 1 cup of plaster of Paris, 1 cup of flour, and one dry cup of soup mix? Mix and put a dish of water near your mixture.
I have never done that myself, but that sort of thing does work. You can also use baking soda instead of plaster of Paris. I will give you a link to a video that talks about doing all that sort of thing. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
th-cam.com/video/BB9gDMFAqWs/w-d-xo.html
I use a 8 liter bucket with a wire threw top middle with a rolling pop can with peanut butter on it and a third water a wood plank going up works very well
I like this idea
The best mousetraps meow.
Not necessarily always true.... I have cars and they literally will watch the rats or micr run around and not even have interaction with them
Back in the 70s I had a barn that was empty except for some roof tin on the ground and the mice 🐁 and rats 🐀 loved to congregate
I would go out there and bang on that tin and they would scatter everywhere. It was quite a game.
Thank you very much Guy for your sharing of your expertise on this! I've got a mouse issue in my crawlspace (got one a couple of days ago using snap trap). There are mouse (also rat) droppings in the in between the insulations. A contractor said I should replace the insulation because the droppings and smells will attract New mice/rats. I would loveto hear your insight on this. Thank you!
Mice and rats enter homes because they are looking for food, water, and shelter. Your home makes a great place to nest and if you leave them access to food and water they will be very happy residing with you. So, you want to be sure to keep all pet food and water put away at night. If you leave dog food or a water bowl on the floor at night, the mice and rats will regard it as a welcome mat. In other words, you want to deny them food and water any way you can. The most important thing though is to build them out. You need to make sure that there are absolutely no entry points into your home. I cover that in my video. If they cannot get in, then you won't have the problem. After you build them out, then it's just a matter of catching the ones that are already inside. As for the droppings and urine, it can smell and, if that is the case, then you probably need to clean it up. Most of the time though I don't find the smell to be a problem unless it's a fairly large infestation. I have not heard of droppings attracting other rodents. It may make them feel a bit more comfortable with the space, but I don't think they seek out droppings. I'm thinking they are more interested in food, which is why the snap traps work so well. Personally, I would not replace the insulation unless it is damaged in some way and even then I would only fix the damage. I would not just replace all the insulation. I guess the exception would be if the insulation was urine soaked to the point that it smelled. Other than that I would leave it alone. Since the mice are finding their way into the crawlspace, my guess is that there is a pipe penetration or other entry point from the outside into the crawlspace. If you patch that entry point and catch the existing mice/rats, then the problem will be resolved. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Good Video, I used to work for a Data Company, in those days we had many cables entering a building, leaving gaps where Rats would get in so after scratching our heads, we combined Wire Wool strands with Silicone and that seemed to stop them. We also left 10 gallon Bucket Traps with stairs below the cable ducting which caught the odd ones, eventually we fitted electric ones.
Building them out always the best way to go. Well done. Be well my friend.
I had “humane “traps on the shelf in the garage. They both became stinky, and we found mice started coming in again and got trapped, and died in the traps. If you are storing, put tape over the holes. Also, we caught mice in snap traps that were only caught by a leg or -the worst- a nose! They were suffering greatly. Will never use them.
You are correct. Those snap traps can catch a mouse without killing it. I have had it happen lots of times. Glue boards are worse though. So, you may want to stick with the humane traps and just make sure you clean them well before storing them. Taping over the holes is a good idea. You should also build them out so that they don't get in at all. If you can't figure out how they are getting in, then let me know. I can help you with that. Be well Sandra.
Great video and advice! I have not heard anyone else mention marshmallows! I will try it. Thank you so much
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Thank you for your video. I had a winter infestation in my storage and they tried to eat everything. Took a nibble out of every thing in site, tunneled through all the furniture. However as a little girl I too thought it a novelty that I had no fear of the critters and snakes...sending my Mom screeming when I cought one. I don't feel guilty, my time has come and there is no one but me to deal with these issues. So thank you for the help. 😊
You are very welcome. Thank you for sharing that story. Very much appreciated. Be well Christina.
I had good luck eliminating a family of rats that were getting into a free standing garage by mixing baking soda with chunky peanut butter, just put it out on a paper plate in a shaded corner of the (wood fenced) yard and in 2 days they had eaten it all and we haven't seen any rats so far after 4 weeks.
That's a great homemade bait. I'm glad it worked for you. Be well my friend.
I just got a king snake and let it go inside my garage and all my rats disappeared
😂
I don't even have mice but I love this guy and his videos.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
A mouse died in the wall in my kitchen of all places. My kitchen smells like hot carcass and I'm truly disgusted 🤢🤢. I don't even think my apartment complex can even do anything about it really but I will ask them to seal the holes at least. I now realize that they've been here for a while as I do remember hearing scratching noises in the ceiling last summer ugh 😩
I suspect there's a little bit more here than meets the eye. The first question you need to ask is how did that mouse get into your apartment in the first place? The only possibilities I can think of is that it entered from the outside, or it entered from another apartment, or maybe even from a hallway. In any event, this mouse may not be alone. There is most likely an opening someplace where mice can enter your apartment. It is important to find this opening to stop by the mice from getting in or from breeding in your apartment. This can be a bit tricky with an apartment because a mouse can get into a hole as small as one quarter of an inch in diameter. Since you are smelling this dead mouse in the kitchen, it could be that is where the entrance point is. Many times in apartments the plumbing in the kitchen runs to an apartment on the other side of the wall, and the wall may not be sealed around the pipes. So, go under the sink and make sure that the pipes are sealed. There may be other openings as well that are behind the base cabinets. So, I recommend that you remove all the drawers and have a look to see if there any holes back there. There could also be a hole behind the dishwasher. You may want to ask the apartment manager to have that dishwasher pulled out, so that you can inspect behind it. It wouldn't surprise me a bit if you also find the dead mouse somewhere under the base cabinets and possibly behind that dishwasher. The dead mouse can also be under the bottom of the base cabinet that is below the sink. Most of the time this area of the base cabinet has a cabinet bottom that creates a gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the floor. It is very possible that the dead mouse is under there as well. Of course, that area would not be accessible. I think it is probably somewhat unlikely that the dead mouse is actually in the wall. I say that because walls are usually pretty sealed up, so I don't think you would smell the dead mouse that much if it was in the wall. More likely than not, you will find that dead mouse behind the cabinet someplace. I have learned to never say never in pest control, so anything is possible, but I would look behind all the cabinets first to see if you can find that dead mouse. If you did not use any poison to kill the mouse, then it is very possible that your neighbors did. That would further support my hypothesis that there is an opening someplace between your apartment and your neighbor's apartment. The mouse may have died from natural causes, but I wouldn't be a bit surprised if it was poisoned. That is why I never recommend using poison to kill mice inside of a building. Unfortunately, if you cannot find and remove the dead mouse, then there isn't much you can do about the smell, other than wait. At least, I am not aware of a solution. The mouse will eventually decay to the point where it no longer smells.
I'm so sorry that this happened to you.
Be well my friend.
Great video. The marshmallow suggestion was a great one
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions you too brother
Also, there is foam in can that will sealcracks and holes, one for the windows is easier to deal with. They will not mess with it.
Use steel wool then reinforce it with the tomcat spray foam... they'll eat through the foam but as long as there is no food source you will be good... check behind your stove and under your sink
We will keep tryimg to get them. Thank you so much Guy.
You are very welcome. Be well Nancy.
Thank you for all of the videos you put out. Airhugs of positive loving energy to you and yours
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well Dianne.
I live in Alberta, Canada. We gave ZERO rats here. Really! Even though there are rats living in the 2 neighboring provinces, one territory, and even Montana. Being mostly an agricultural province until the mid 70's when the oilfields exploded onto the scene, rats were a problem on farms. So the government set about an anti-rat campaign. We took it seriously. TV commercials, posters, government programs, and a strict rule to kill on site! There are fines if you own a pet rat. Yes, even pet rats are banned to this day. We treated it like we did Covid. And this was 50 years ago at least! And it didn't take long before they were gone. I've lived in Alberta for nearly 50 years and have never seen a rat on my farm growing up or anywhere to this day.
Mice, on the other hand, are cute as buttons and I find them hard to kill. Of course, they have to go. Usually we leave it up to the farm cats. But I live in the city now with no cats. I had mice last year. I had to get an electric trap and the traditional snap traps that have been upgraded to plastic (because the traditional wood and wire traps are terrifying). I've used poison bait traps that only work if you get the good stuff that are harder to get (you can get them at a farm store if you are a registered farm owner there....just need your land location, etc). They don't smell when they die and the bodies practically disintegrate immediately. No suffering either. The cheaper poison you get at Walmart is useless. Don't waste your money. It might make them sick but rarely kills them and that's not humane. The only trap I hate to use more is the sticky glue boards. They are terrible! I only used them once because I had a whole litter of babies descend into my kitchen in one night. I had to set up those sticky ones so I could get all the babies in one night. It was awful. They were stuck but not dead. Tiny, cute, and terrified little things stuck on the glue. Some of them bloody. All alive. I took them outside and had a neighbor finish them. I cried. So now I just use those plastic snap traps with peanut butter that works really good and the electric one does too. But I can't look at those sweet little eyes. So cute. Just can't live with them. I admit I've had a couple of good conversations and eye contact with a few mice now and then, the night before I knew they were going to end up in one of my traps. So conflicting!
Thank you so much for sharing your story. Be well my friend.
We have rats, they have eaten my herbs, i cant grow veggies anymore. I filled with steel wool holes outside, poured black pepper, cayenne pepper, and in a bottle I put white vinegar (couldn't find ammonia) with essential oil of citronela and sprayed outside. I plan to do that every evening. I don't want them to continue scratching trying to eat through the walls to get inside because they were digging through a hole and were ready to get in! 😭
Thankyou for the marshmallow suggestion!
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
When you see one mouse you probably have many more. Mice will follow a urine trail into any and all small spaces into your home. The smell of mouse urine is an invitation that other mice will follow to a place of comfort and a steady source of food. Devote use of snap traps with metal triggers will send a message in time that your house is not a wade house to their success and security.
I use the old fashion Victor traps with peanut butter and have a very high rate of success. My Father used the same traps but used pecans for bait stating that those "SOB's can't get those off" because he would jam them tightly into the holder LOL, that man was a king at catching mice. The best way I found to place them was in some sort of choke point where they couldn't just go around them. Great video and some excellent tips as well.
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
What about a cat
@@MitchellAdamson-cq5wg Unfortunately, cats are not a good solution for mice. If you feed a cat, which most people do, then it is likely to just play around with the mice and not kill them. Also, mice breed very quickly and they stay hidden as much as possible. Even a hungry cat cannot possibly find and kill them all. Also, eating mice can get a cat sick. So, while cats have a great reputation for eliminating a mouse problem, the truth is it's more like the Tom and Jerry cartoons from years ago. The mice are most likely going to win. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
When I had 2 or 3 large dogs in the house, I kept 2 buckets of water for them. If I put the buckets near a wall, mice would get in the bucket for water and then could not get out, so they drowned. Only problem is there are too many mice that did not get in the buckets for a drink.
The problem is that you need to build them out. The mice enter from the outside and if you don't find the entry point, then they will keep coming in. Let me know if you cannot find the entry point and I will explain how to do it. Be well my friend.
If you go the catch and release route you should learn what mice are native vs invasive species. You may want to consider the damage invasive species can cause if you release back into the wild.
That is true. Of course, the problem is with most invasive species is that they breed rather quickly and the truth is that a couple of mice one way or the other is not going to make much of a difference. There are folks who simply will not kill anything or take this problem into consideration, so I honestly don't know the answer to the problem. Here in Florida we have an invasive species of frog that has taken over the entire state. They are Cuban Tree Frogs and there are now so many of them that they are all over the place. All residents have been asked to kill as many as possible, but I doubt if anybody actually does it. The problem is that they will eat anything, including other species of frogs and now the only frogs I ever see are Cuban Tree Frogs and they are all over the place. Another one of the problems with them is that they are kind of cute, so people seem to like them, which I suspect is the reason nobody kills them. So, the problem is way out of control. Sadly, that seems to be a recurring scenario with different invasive species. Most of the time you can't stop them, even though, as you point out, they can cause damage. I wish I had a solution for this problem. You do make a good point though.
For snap traps: Face trigger mechanism against the wall..(with a sticky bait aka peanut butter or marshmellow-stick it WELL to the board) 🎉
Great advice. We use mouse cube traps. When I catch one or two, I put them in the car and drive a mile or so in the woods and let them go. One day collecting firewood, picked up a log, wow about eight little ones looking up at me, I slowly lowered the wood back and let them be. They were about a half mile away from the house, so let them be.
I agree. If they are outside and a good distance from the house, then why bother them? Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
Mashmellows......Got to try it. Mice here are snatching the food , they will set the trap off but not get nailed. These little buggers are FAST
It's not so much that they are fast. It's more about them being cautious and timid. They have a way of very gently licking off the food in the trap. With marshmallows they cannot lick it off and they need to actually bite into it and that will trigger the trap. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Great idea w the marshmallows. I am struggling with the mice problem now
@@GuysPestSolutionsdo the marshmallows
@@micheleauletta4407 The key is to build them out. You need to find the openings where they are getting in. If you cannot locate the entry points outside, then email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will share a trick for that. TH-cam will most likely delete it if I post it here. I don't know why they do that. Be well Michele.
I go in and out thru my garage door. And carry stuff in , so garage is open till I get done. I worry a mice can easily run right in and I would not even been aware. What can I put around my garage door to deter them. I did put moth balls but , does that really work. Thank you guy. I've spread your advice and sight to others and they used it and your advice worked. Thanks, jo
Thank you so much for those kind words and for passing me along to others. Very much appreciated.
There are always exceptions, but the vast majority of the time, mice typically come out at night and not during the day. So, unless you go shopping at night, which some people do, then you probably will not have a problem with the mice entering through your garage door during the day. Most likely, if you're having mice in the garage, then they are getting in through some sort of opening. That could be an opening around the garage door itself, because it doesn't seal tightly, or there could be another opening somewhere around the perimeter of the garage. You need to find that entry point and seal it. If you would like to know how mice are getting in, there is a way to do that, but it will cost you a little bit of money. If you cannot find the entry point, then buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different locations until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground. Keep in mind that a mouse can get into an opening that is only about 1/4 inch wide, so the entry point may not be obvious. The camera will guide you right to it though. Make sure that you do not have any food sources in the garage that would attract them.
I hope that helps. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance. Be well Joan.
Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
The problem with live traps, in my own experience is that you have to remember to check them every day because if you don't, that mouse is going to die a slow death in there anyway. It's been some time since I had mice in my house but somehow they were getting in, I think it was through the AC drain line. Anyway, I had a live trap in the laundry room behind a washing machine, somewhere I haven't even looked in years. Well I was walking by the laundry room and I saw something familiar laying on the floor. It was a little black plastic disk. It was where you place your bait inside the live traps. Obviously the cats found themselves a toy but why? I didn't put 2 and 2 together until that night I see the cats staring at the ceiling and I hear little thumpety thumps. Well, this means there's a mouse in the ceiling. What actually happened was that the mouse was caught in the live trap and the cat let it out. 😂 That's typical for these cats. They catch the mouse and then let it go. 😆
That's both true and funny. You do need to remember to check humane traps every day. Also, one of the problems with a cat solution is that, if you feed your cats, then they are not hungry. Cat food is probably tastier than mice, so the cats may just play with the mice and then let them go. They may just regard them as toys. Mice can carry diseases too, so it's not a good idea for your cats to be eating them anyway. Cats can be quite clever and curious, so I am not surprised that they managed to release the mice from the trap. You are lucky that the cats didn't carry the mice into the bedroom for you. Lol. I have seen them do that sort of thing. Thanks for sharing your story. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions i have more funny stories about pests in my house from lady bug infestations to snakes in the ceiling to the surveillance camera that i installed in the ceiling to monitor what's going on in there. I live in the woods and have had both field mice (the ugly generic looking ones) and the house mouse which are the cute ones with big ears that you don't really want to kill. I use the snap traps when i need to.
@@TheKingOfInappropriateComments Snakes in the ceiling sounds scary. Please let me know if you have any questions about how to deal with those sorts of issues. It sounds like you are on top of things, but let me know if I can be of service. Be well my friend.
Just a friendly corn snake that stopped by to assist and then left. Came back again a year later for a followup inspection (lunch) and treatment.@@GuysPestSolutions I'd love to hear your ideas on the multicolored asian ladybeetle though.
@@TheKingOfInappropriateComments I can help with the ladybeetles, but first let me know if this is an inside or outside issue. I'm guessing inside, but I never like to assume. Just let me know and I will explain what to do.
Thanks for the awesome video sir. Very informative 💯
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I'll have to try marshmallows. I had a lot of luck with peanut butter on the snap traps with the yellow bait pedestal as it's a bit more sensitive than the metal versions. I've seen recommendations for melting a hard candy too, but it was too much work for me.
Thanks Cornelious. The truth is that I do not eat marshmallows very often, so I generally do not have them available when someone asks me to help them with a mouse problem. Most of the time I stop by and just try to use whatever I can find that they already have. More often than not, it's peanut butter and it does work most of the time. Occasionally they do manage to lick it off without setting off the trap, but I usually can get them with it. Marshmallows are pretty much a sure thing, but it's not the only thing. I have also used cheese. That's right. Unlike my dad though, I took some thread and tied the cheese to the trigger. If you tie the bait to the trigger, just about anything will probably work. Thanks for watching.
Tootsie Rolls. It doesn't take much to warm up and apply to trigger, then it dries hard. They love it!
Thank you so much for the helpful video!👍🤠
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy! thanks for this great video! do you have any video on rat control? it appears that there are large rodents inside the party wall separating from my neighbor in the condo, although I've never seen them. Thank you in advance!
Just like mice, rats are coming in from the outside. So, the first thing you want to do is discourage them from being there in the first place. If you have pets, do not feed them outside and do not leave food or water bowls outside. If you have any bird feeders, then it's a good idea to remove them. While the rats may not make their way up to the bird feeders, the birds can be quite messy and some of that bird feed may find its way to the ground, where the rats may eat it. Make sure that all your trash cans are covered, and they have no holes in them. In other words, make sure there are no food or water sources that they can get into.
Next, walk around the outside of your house and seal any openings that you find. You can use a commonly available caulk for small holes and Stuff It for larger openings. I will give you a link where you can buy Stuff It. If you have any trees or large plants that are touching the house, then trim them back and make sure that you have no trees that are overhanging the house.
Now that you've discouraged them from coming into the house, it's time to eliminate the population outside. To do this, you need to use a bait and bait stations. I will provide you with links to these products. For the best results, place the bait stations directly against the foundation of the house and space them about every 15 to 20 feet apart, where you are seeing the activity. You need to check the bait stations every day and replenish the bait as needed, until you are no longer seeing the bait being eaten.
If you encounter rats that are inside the house, then the approach is pretty similar to outside the house. You want to start by removing all the food sources. Take your trash out every day, before you go to bed, so that there is no trash left for them to get into during the night. Also, make sure that you don't leave any dishes lying around either. Pet food and water dishes should not be left out overnight. I do not recommend that you use a poison inside the house, because you don't want dead rats smelling up the house. Therefore, I recommend using traps. I think that snap traps work the best, and they're very affordable. However, if you wish to be kind to the rats, then you can also use traps that will catch the rats alive, and you can release them someplace outside. You can find a good selection of these on Amazon. Just like for mice, you want to place the snap traps next to the walls, with the bait facing the wall. If you're using the traps that catch them alive, then you want the opening to the trap to be near the wall. The traps I am recommending can be reused. Always wear rubber gloves when handling traps because the rats may avoid a trap that has human smell on it. After you catch a rat, you can dispose of it in the trash and then rinse off the trap with a garden hose for reuse. Do not over clean the traps because you want to leave a little of the rat smell on the trap. That will make the other rats more likely to approach the trap. Be sure to check the traps at least daily or more often because dead rats in the trap will cause other rats to avoid the trap. I do not recommend feeding rats and mice to cats because they may have a disease or parasites that can be passed along. Place the traps at 10-foot intervals along the wall and focus on areas where you think there's activity. Since you will be reusing the traps, I recommend that you use peanut butter as a bait because it is easily cleaned off when you wash the traps. If you find that the rats are licking off the peanut butter without setting off the trap, then you can try a little bit of marshmallow. It is much harder to clean it off the traps, but it is practically impossible for the rats to get it off without setting off the traps. If you have children, I'm kind of guessing that you would prefer that they not get their fingers stuck in a trap. I'm also guessing that you would prefer that the traps not snap down on the noses of any pets. To avoid this problem, you can place the traps inside of a bait station. These stations lock so that kids cannot get into them. They also make the traps more effective because rats like confined spaces. Just use one trap for each bait station.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Stuff It: www.solutionsstores.com/stuf-fit-copper-mesh
Rat bait: www.solutionsstores.com/eratication-rodent-bait
Bait stations: www.solutionsstores.com/solutions-rodent-bait-station
Snap traps: www.solutionsstores.com/big-snap-e-plastic-rat-trap
Whats the name of that roach powder you named? The video had a slight misnomer or maybe was my phone. Thanks so much for uour valuable information!!
Are you talking about my German cockroach video? If so, I used a couple of dusts. You are probably thinking about boric acid. Be well my friend.
Just wanted to say thanks for the video.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
We currently have a mice problem in our house and have placed traps, glue boards, and even boxes that hold poison for the mice to go into. Nothing has worked so far. Our cameras set up show the mice avoiding all the areas the sense traps. Not a sign n or mice has been caught. What do you suggest in this situation where the mice are avoiding all the traps set?
The very first thing you need to do is to stop the mice from going in and out of the house. One of the reasons they are not bothering with baits or traps is because they are not hungry. This is the case because they are most likely going in and out of the house every night. Therefore, there is most likely an entry point for them somewhere around the house. So, you must seal up this entry point before you can hope to catch the ones inside.
If you were having trouble finding the entrance point outside, then buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different sides of the house until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground.
After you have the entrance point sealed up, then make sure that the trap triggers are right up against the walls where the activity is. If the mice cannot get out of the house, and if you give them no other food source, then they will take the bait. Just make sure that they have no other food available to them any place in the house. That means you want to have all pet bowls cleaned out every night, no dishes in the sink, or any other food items that they can get into.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
@@GuysPestSolutionsthat is some fantastic information. I wouldn't have thought of those details. Thank you so much!!
@@daniellecharland-gruhzit1177 You are very welcome. I am always happy to help. Be well Danielle.
If you don’t seal the hole, crack that they are coming in, all the poisons and traps won’t help you get RID of them. It’s like having your house robbed on a daily basis but you don’t lock or close the door!!!
@@roslynjones5886 That is a good analogy. Thanks. Be well Roslyn.
Great video with lots of useful information. I noticed mice outside coming into the brick weeping holes. I bought some covers and thinking about covering them around the house. Exterminator put small the bait stations inside. I called 4 different businesses and all suggested the bait poison boxes for inside. Those holes you pass cable through are a concern because they may be coming in from there. Any advice at all?
I never recommend baiting inside the home because the mice can die inside, and it can smell for a long time. Traps are a better bet. You need to seal up the entry points outside or the problem will not go away. I have never seen them come through weep holes before, but you can buy weep hole plugs that will allow the water to escape, but will prevent pests from entering. They are available on Amazon. Mice often enter through gaps around pipes and wires. Please let me know if you cannot find the entry points and I will give you further guidance on it. To obtain my trick for finding entry points, please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and ask for the trick to finding mouse entry points. TH-cam usually deletes it when I provide it here.
Please note that I am on vacation, and I will not be home until June 11. I cannot read email until I return, so it may take a few days to respond to your request. I will get caught up on email just as quickly as I can, so please be patient with me.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Guy you’ve saved my a$$ so many times! You are the man!!
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Our backyard is connected to a feild. Both of our sheds and chicken coop were infested with mice, well our dogs and cats took care of them outside, but now they have moved in. We dont leave food out or anything yet every morning I find mouse poop in our kitchen drawers. Im so disgusted right now. I feel like we are doomed.
The only way mice can get into your house is from the outside. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is seal up any openings in the outside where they may be getting in. It can be very difficult to find these openings. If you have looked for those openings and cannot find them, then buy a critter cam from Amazon. You can get them for around $50. Just set the credit cam on a small tripod that is aimed toward the side of the house and leave it there overnight. Mice usually travel at night and the critter cam has night vision. In the morning, just check for activity. If the mice are entering from that side of the house, you will see the exact entry point. If there is no activity, then move the camera to another location. Eventually, you will probably discover where they are getting it. At that point, just seal it up. After that, then simply trap the mice that are inside of the house.
I hope that helps. Be will my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutionsthank you so much!! I’d never thought to do that and will buy one immediately. Do you have an affiliate link where I can support you?
@@heidiemmendorfer7533 You are very welcome. No need to pay me. It is my pleasure to be of service to you. I'm always here to help. Be well Heidi.
A mouse comes in my house and it's dead. I have spent too much time cleaning their messes. I have spent too much money replacing food they have damaged.
My thinking exactly. Be well my friend.
Facts
I found the mice were entering by climbing up through the siding cornice pieces . I put steel wool in the bottom entry space and that stopped the problem.
Good job. Steel wool works great, but it rusts. You may want to change over to Suf-Fit or similar product. There are all sorts of imitations on Amazon that are very cost effective. These products are made of copper, so no rust. Be well my fiend and congratulations on finding how the mice are getting in.
Thank you Sir! Don’t even know where to start 😱😭😭😭. Definitely finding droppings and hear movements when in bed or walking around the house 😢😡. God help me 🙏✝️
If you are seeing mouse droppings, then I think it's reasonable to conclude that you have mice. All you need to do is follow the advice in the video and that should end your problem. The mice are almost always coming in from the outside, so you must seal up those entry points. If you cannot find the entry points, then please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. I have a trick for finding the entry points, but TH-cam keeps deleting it on me, so I can't give it to you here. Also email me if you live in an apartment or some other building where you cannot seal openings in the outside.
I hope that helps. Be well Michelle.
@@GuysPestSolutions You are so awesome and I’m so scared, disgusted and overwhelmed! I am by myself 😢. TY so very much for all your help and info! God bless you🙏✝️
@@michellestlicitra9105 You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Don't worry. You've got this. It's going to be okay. Be well Michelle.
I was sitting in a coffee shop once, and i watched a mouse squeeze under the glass door. It was -40 outside, so he or she had some motivation. I guess there may have been about 1/8th of an inch space under the door. They can flatten their skeleton and squeeze through just about any opening.
That's the problem mice don't have a skeleton
This is great. Loved your commentary, thank you!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I like the idea of using marshmallows. For years now I have used chocolate chips because they are hard enough but the mouse will set off the trap on the first bite
I have never tried chocolate chips, but I can tell you that there is no way I am going to share my chocolate chips with a mouse. Lol. I like them way too much for that. The chocolate chips I mean, not the mice. I am something of a chocoholic. My wife is always telling me that I eat way too much of it. I suppose she's right, but it's my only vice. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching. Great comment.
I look forward to your video help with RATS...I KNOW FOR SURE. Our problem began with my neighbor in front of my house on a cul-de-sac. She had chickens, small pony, other animals. Her house was grown over with foliage, weeds etc. She sold out and they bushwhacked the place. Then our problem began. My niece is trying her best. Making progress. But man they are big. The babies I've found are bigger that mice... they were dying when I found them on my kitchen floor.
So yes I look forward to the rat video... 🤗
Hi Ronnelle. Wow! That's quite the problem you have there. Okay, don't wait for my rat video. It will be a couple of months before I can get to it. For now, do exactly what I explain in the mouse video with regard to building out the rats. That is the first and most important step. Next you want to trap the ones in the house, if there are any. It works pretty much like mice, but you need larger traps. Then, get several bait stations from Amazon, DoMyOwn.com, or Solutions Pest & Lawn. I will put a link below for one from Amazon, but you can use any bait station you like. Then get rat bait. There are any number of them available and I will put a link below for that as well. Again, you can get it from the same places. Just be sure that the bait is in block form and has a hole up the middle. The baiting is for the exterior of your home. Place the traps about 15 feet apart where you are seeing activity. You may see rat trails through the grass and maybe even rat holes. You are going to need several bait stations and you need to check them daily to make sure that the bait is not gone. Baits work slowly, so you need to keep feeding them. Finally, clean up the outside of your home. By that I mean, be sure that all the brush is cut down neatly, don't put pet food or water outside, and make sure that trash cans are tightly covered with no holes in the side. You want to deny them any food source or places to easily hide on your property. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
Bait stations: smile.amazon.com/Mouse-Bait-Stations-Eco-Pro/dp/B07PFR7CJJ/ref=sr_1_14?crid=18PCV0I1LDXAD&dchild=1&keywords=eradication+bait+block&qid=1614813203&sprefix=eradication+bait%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-14
Bait: smile.amazon.com/Tomcat-All-Weather-Bait-Chunx/dp/B000HHOALG/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=eradication+bait+block&qid=1614813711&sr=8-9
Pieces of tootsie rolls dunked in hot water and formed to the bait pan works great on snap traps too👍
Great idea. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
Love your videos! Thanks for your service, both here and in the armed services. I have a 1.5 story Cape Cod style home and I’ve noticed mice/rat activity in the attic spaces and eaves of the upper floor. Do these critters climb well? It seems odd that I see evidence of them up high but nothing on the main level. Thanks in advance for your guidance!
Yes, rats and mice can climb. They have sharp claws that help them grip surfaces, and their tails help them balance. Rats are particularly good climbers, and they can climb up smooth surfaces, such as walls and pipes. Mice are not as good climbers as rats, but they can still climb up rough surfaces.
Rats and mice are often found on the upper floor, because they can climb up the walls or through small holes in the eaves. There are a few reasons why rats and mice might be in your upper floor and not the main floor of your home:
Food: The upper floor may offer a good source of food for rats and mice. They may find food in stored items, such as birdseed or pet food.
Shelter: The upper floors are often quieter and not used as much, which provides rats and mice with a safer place to live. They may also find nesting materials in the walls and roof, such as insulation.
Warmth: The upper floors are often warmer than other areas of the home, which is especially important for rats and mice during the winter months.
Access: Rats and mice are very good at finding and exploiting entry points into homes. They may find small holes in the roof or walls, or they may chew through wood or other materials to gain access to the attic.
The key is figuring out how they are getting in and then seal it up. Buy a critter camera from Amazon and set it up on a tripod outside overnight, facing one side of the house. Set the sensitivity to maximum. In the morning, you may see how they are getting in. Do this for each side of the house. After sealing up the holes, then trap the ones inside. Let me know if you have a rat problem outside and I will tell you how to deal with it.
Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Such a detailed response! Thanks so much for the insight. I really appreciate it. Take care!
@@PilotJames_NC You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
No live traps for me . . . they'll just keep coming back and destroy my cars in the barn. Lots of field mice in the country. I use Victor Quick Kill traps. They are extremely effective and kill quickly, plus the bait is usually still there for a few more rounds. I use peanut butter, which attracts them very much. They have trap doors that partially cover the bait, so when the mouse is trapped it is usually on top of the door and other mice can't get the bait so they go to the other traps I have set.
When living in ARKANSAS in the early 90s, I used Decon with GREAT success. What I didn't know at the time, was, that you must add a water source next to the Decon. My ARKANSAS new friends told me this. Afterwards, 4 mice in my rented mobile home , bit the dust! I have since found out that DECON is not being sold anymore, because of EPA decision. The new snap shut traps, are as cheap in design, as they are in price. DONT BUY TOMCAT BRAND. ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SET! OH DECON, WHERE HAST THOW GONE! WOE IS ME!! Guess I will get glue traps.
Great video, thank you!
You are very welcome. Be well Camila.
Dealing with what I believe is a mouse or mice in the attic above the room I sleep in (random electrical pop sounds at night 1-2x). Currently have a pest control service bait stations once a month and they suggest to rehabilitate the whole attic and re-insulate. They can not pinpoint a point of entry looking on the outside. Have only caught one mouse in a trap door trap in the past 16 months and have numerous snap traps, sticky paper and now mint oil soaked cotton balls on the perimeter of the attic. Should I proceed with the $5.7k attic rehabilitation cost, or try my own bait/bait stations in addition to the existing bait stations?
You do not need to do anything to the attic. Even if you do that, it won't stop the mice. They are coming in from the outside and you must find the entry points. I have a solution for that, but TH-cam will not allow me to post it here. For some reason they keep deleting it. Perhaps because it is prewritten and I am just pasting it in. So, if you email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com, I will give you the secret to finding the entry points. You can do this yourself and it's not hard at all. After you locate the entry points, then just seal them up as shown in the video you watched. You are going to save over 5 thousand dollars. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Got an old mircowave oven , Great ! Full Power Scotty .
Great video, informative. Easy subscription. I noticed you respond to others so im shooting my shot... ceiling mice.
I set some traps a month ago and got two mice then nothing else. Im remodeling my bathroom and i tore out the old ceiling and a bunch of mouse droppings fell out. Ew, i know. They were hard but gray. Couldnit be from a past infestation or have they just flown under the radar till now. Advice?
It would be hard for me to say if you have inactive infestation without inspecting. My guess is that, if you caught two mice a month ago, then you probably still have mice. They may or may not be in the ceiling. The most important thing to do is to build them out. Most of the time mice are entering and exiting the building all the time. Usually at night. So, it is important to find the entry points. If you cannot find the entry points, then buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different sides of the house until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
I block small holes with wire wool ( steel wool )
This is 100% on point however It only applies to at least about 99% of the structures
I own a pest control company and I do exclusions for the most part because a lot of companies are not doing it keep in mind most companies will only go as far as putting baits sticky traps and that's it
We're probably one of the only companies in In Northern Virginia that does full detail exclusions
Reason I say 99% is because in DC for example these older row homes are attached to each other on the roof there's so many ways they can come in , keep in mind mice can also come from underground area such as crawl spaces which can run along entire rows of structures some have rock foundations
So in truth the age of the house and the type of structure will dictate how effective exclusion would be if you are in a detached home with a solid foundation what he said applies essentially anything made from brick or poured concrete is very straightforward
A times mice are not even coming from the foundation they can come straight from a pipe that has been left open or uncapped So it's not basically always from the exterior but a lot of times it is again depending on what type of structure in the area.
You are correct. Keep in mind though that this video was only intended for single family homes, so I don't think the video will even cover 99%. So, you are being generous with that percentage. It can be problematic to build out mice from apartments, condos, townhomes, and all that sort of thing. Anytime you do not have control of all sides of the home can be problematic. It is way easier to build out the mice from the outside rather than the inside. As you know, if you don't seal up the entry points, they will most likely just keep coming in. Good for you that you take the time to do the job correctly. I agree that a lot of pest controllers just bait and trap. It's somewhat disheartening because they give the industry a bad name. Thanks for watching and keep up the good work. Be well my friend.
Raspberry jam under the trigger works for me,
I threw and knived a norway rat one time. It was really big! I had brushhog my side yard and some cat was out there looking down at something and acting like it was confused as to whether it wanted to attack it. I went out there and saw it was a very large norway rat. I had pulled out a buck knife and I threw it and went into it. It had me puzzled because it did not appear to be intimidated by neither me nor the cat. It hadn't been injured by my mowing the area it was at either.
Thanks for sharing. I hate rats. If you watched the video, then you know that I had to deal with them in Vietnam. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Oh yeah, I watched it, and I have heard of some rat experiences there. Thanks for your service! I was in the Army artillery in the 1990's and helped train Fire Direction Corp Army trainees and Marines.
hot glue a corn kernel to the spring trap bait pad
Excellent information thank you
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
By the way flour and baking soda works wonders 1/2 and 1/2 cups of each
That works, but it's a painful death for the mice and not recommended for inside use. If you poison mice inside, then they may die inside as well and that can lead to odor problems and even fly problems. The best thing you can do is to find the entry points and seal them. If you are having a problem finding the entry points, then email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will share a way to do it. It's not hard at all. TH-cam will not allow me to post it here for some reason. I think they don't like it when I copy and paste responses. I hope that helps. Be well Sherry.
I’m so glad I found your channel. Looking forward for a rat 🐀 video.
Thank you so much. I will do my best to get the rat video out as soon as I can.
I take a little piece of tootsie roll jam it under the bait holder works great.
Thank you for your service!
You are very welcome. I appreciate the comment. Be well my friend.
Semper Fi... from another Vietnam Marine Vet.
The problem is CATCHING the mouse, I used all kinds of traps glue, bottle, .... it is a smart little mouse taht wont take the baite , probably released from a lab or something. Been battling with the little animal for 4 days now. Going on a hunting mode!
Did you try placing a snap trap in a bait station and placing it so that the entrance is next to a wall where you are seeing mouse droppings? The bait station gives the mouse a sense of security. You can also place the trap in a small cardboard box with a hole cut near the bottom for the mouse to enter. In fact, cut a hole on two sides of the box, so the mouse can enter when walking along the wall from either direction. Give it a try. Be well my friend.
Mission complete! Caught the bugger. Thank you for your recommendations. All that wouldn't have been possible without actually dissapearing for a few days and then come back home and see the results. All the best to you!@@GuysPestSolutions
Guy, what about the electric (battery powered) stations that have bait inside, are they effective? Thanks for your advice.
Hello, I have one and it is working great. Regards Jacco dominicus
@@jaccodominicus9808 thanks
I have never tried them. I'll bet they work great, but they are a bit too pricey for me. I find that the best thing to do is just seal up the entry points and then use a standard snap trap to eliminate the ones that are inside. If you are having problems finding where they are getting in, I can share the secret with you on how to do it.
Be well my friend.
Got one of them, it zapped one so far. Got another one, hasn't mailed any mice yet, but seems they do the job as intended.
@@TheGoddamnBacon thanks 👍🏻
Hi Guy. This is Nancy again. We still have the mouse/mice. We tried the marshmallow. He went for it but we didn't get him. Perhaps there was too much marshmallow on the trigger? How much do you put on it? Very little I would think. He is into making nests again. I hope this doesn't mean baby mice in the future. He is a clever one for sure.
You don't need much marshmallow. Just be sure to jam it into the trigger really well so that they cannot get it out easily. My guess is that this is more than one mouse. You most likely have an opening in the side of the building that you do not know about. I am going to give you the secret to finding the opening in my next comment. If you don't receive it, then TH-cam deleted it and you will need to email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. They do that a lot to me these days.
I hope that helps. Be well Nancy.
To find the entry point, just buy a trail camera from Amazon. They start at around $30, but a good one will run around $70. Set it up on a tripod facing the side of the house. Set it out at night and in the morning you will have a video of where they are entering. Just move the camera to different sides of the house until you find them. Set the camera on maximum sensitivity. The closer you set it to the side of the house, the better it will work, so you may need to take two or three nights for each side of the house. The mice will be heading to the ground, so make sure that the camera points so that you can see where the house meets the ground.
I hope that helps. Be well Nancy.
Trail camera: www.amazon.com/Trail-Camera-Waterproof-130%C2%B0Wide-Angle-Monitoring/dp/B0C3HG25F1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=critter%2Bcam&qid=1693645278&sr=8-7&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1
@@GuysPestSolutionsThank you so much for sharing this link! I just went and purchased this. In fact I purchased two because they're on sale! They're normally about $70, but right now they're 40% off, and each one cost me $40! You have to purchase it one item at a time though. I really hope this helps solve my problem because I'm at Wit's end at this point! I'm finally starting to heal after having a 20 lb tumor removed, and I'm trying to take back my house... And that's particularly hard to do with mice! ;-)
@@castingmynetforChrist You are very welcome. I am so sorry that you had such a large tumor removed. I hope you are going to be okay. 20 pounds sounds pretty large. Very scary. Be well my friend.
OK, how about a half of a mini "jet puff" marshmallow, stuffed with a piece of cheese coated with peanut butter pressed on to the trigger of a snap trap? Sounds irresistible !
Ah yes. Give them a nice, but short, meal prior to death. 😉😉 Be well my friend.
Thank you so much for this video.
You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
It's a good idea to change the trap now and then. Like go from a glue trap to a spring trap and so forth. They are smart and the word gets around the mice community to stay away from the traps. Kind of like the 100th monkey syndrome. I am always catching baby mice cause they aren't as smart yet, but I seldom catch the adult mice as they have become house smart.
If you have that many of them, then I recommend building them out. The video explains how to do that. Let me know if you cannot find the point of entry and I will help you out with that. Be well Regina.
Great videos. Can you do some videos of how to inspect for different type of pest and how to treat them? pest such as house ants, spider, cockroach, Termite etc. Some videos on how you run your pest control business would be great too. Thanks
Thanks for the suggestion. As it happens, I am working on a video for inspecting for German cockroaches and the treatment for them. That video is in production and it will take several weeks to get it done. German cockroaches are an insect that you do need to inspect for, but you don't need to inspect for many other species of insects. I always remind people of that old saying that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. So, instead of inspecting for many pests, like ants, spiders, termites, and many others, why not just treat for them? If you watch my videos on DIY General Exterior Pest Control and DIY Termite Treatment you can ensure that you will never get any termites of any type and you will never get any spiders, ants, American cockroaches, wasps, wood boring bees, etc. The treatments are cheap and easy to do. They sure to beat trying to get rid of the pests once you have them. You can be totally bug free for very little money. I will place links below. Now German cockroaches are another story. They can enter from the outside, but often times they enter because you carry them in on your clothes or furniture that you purchase. You can also get them in your luggage from a hotel that you stay in. It's not just you either. If you have a guest over that has them, they may bring them in on their clothes without knowing it. It's the same with bedbugs too and I will eventually get around to a video on that as well. In both cases you need to inspect for them. However, for most pests, I suggest that you just treat for them whether you have them or not. If you hire a pest controller, that's exactly what they will do. If you happen to have ants or something like that, I do have some videos on those treatments already and there will be more coming. Again, thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching.
DIY General Exterior Pest Control Video: th-cam.com/video/3ESGJsn3MLk/w-d-xo.html
DIY Termite Treatment: th-cam.com/video/H7rW_TSBHJ4/w-d-xo.html
Own 2 cats that are fantastic mouse hunters?
I'm not a big fan of using cats to catch mice. The truth is that they can't cat them as fast as the mice can multiply. Also, field mice can get a cat sick when they eat it, so I don't think it's the best thing for you pet. I recommend getting rid of the mice another way and feed the cats real cat food. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
The mouse in the house is so smart to avoid the glued boards I have setup for them
I'm not a big fan of glue boards. I think snap traps work better and are more humane. That being said, you need to place the glue boards against the walls where you see activity and you should bait them as well. If using snap traps, place them so the trigger side is against the wall. It helps sometimes if you put them in a bait station. Mice like confined spaces where they feel safe. Place the entrance hole of the bait station adjacent to the wall. Bait stations will also protect kids and pets from messing with the glue boards or traps.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Snap trap: www.domyown.com/mini-trex-mouse-trap-p-1303.html
Bait station: www.domyown.com/protecta-mouse-bait-stations-p-1284.html?sub_id=81
I've joined your channel today,,thx 4 sharing your knowledge
Thank you so much.
One got caught in the snap trap tail it dragged the trap yet couldn't dislodge. Caught it trying to go behind some box. Led me to travel route. After we did some remodeling ( unnecessary if you ask me ) it left all kinds of ways since we live above a crawl spaces tgat deal with 10 other homes and leads to outside to planet 🌏 earth. Also ole boy mention cats. I let the door to the crawl space open and I put the cats on payroll with 9lives Meow Mix and Friskies to draw and attract all the alley cats. Then in between feedings Im sure they look for food and stumble on the real reason I got them on payroll. I understand mice naturally know the smells associated with cats and innately know its time to pack up and get out of here asap.
Keep in mind that stray cats come with their own set of problems. Not the least of which is fleas. They may also give birth under your house. Uneaten mouse parts can lead to flies as well. The worst part for me would be the noise. Cats can be quite noisy at times. So, it would not be an options that I would choose, but I suppose it will slow down the mice somewhat. Personally, I would build them out and poison the ones outside. A single feed bait will wipe them out pretty fast. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions😅😅
Man, you would rather have mice once you realize how bad a cat colony is. You don't have to feed traps or deal with their poo.
this is so helpful! in your experience where are holes that people miss when trying to plug up the exterior entry points
Thank you for those kind words and for watching the video. The mice can be coming in all sorts of places that are very hard to find. I came across a video that someone did on this very issue that I thought was pretty smart. He set up a cheap camera that took video of the problem. It showed him where the mice were entering. I will give you a link to his video. You don't need to use the same camera that he did. Any critter camera will work with a small tripod. There are lots of cameras on Amazon for under $50. I hope that helps. Be well Judy.
th-cam.com/video/x9_5rp0g6Ro/w-d-xo.html
50/50 mixture of baking soda / flour or corn bread mix. ( no water !) Leave it dry, works great for mice and rats.
That will probably work, but here's the thing... The mice or rats are going to die where they please because it's not a super-fast kill. That means they can get into all sorts of places before they die, and the odor can be a problem. This can also create a fly problem. That is why I generally do not use poisons inside the house. Outside is fine. For inside treatment, I think you would be better off using traps and building them out. Now, baking soda is not actually a poison, but it has the same result. Using baking soda instead of poison has the advantage that kids and pets can get into it without much harm. The reason it kills mice and rats is because they don't realize that it is harmful, so they eat it, but they do not have the ability to vomit. The gas it creates in their stomachs can be fatal. Can you imagine dying of stomach gas? It hurts just thinking about it.
Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
Funny you should mention. I'm just recently am trying this concoction...like the last few days. Am curious how it works. I'm actually using plaster of Paris.
@@martinschulz9381 Please let me know how that works out for you. Be well my friend.
is this method very effective my farm is invaded by these creatures
I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, TH-cam did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com.
This method will work for your house. Maybe not so much for a barn.
Again, sorry for the delay in answering. Be well my friend.
What about soda and flour?
I tried tootsie rolls. You have to warm them up just enough to mold them around the trigger. It worked pretty good.
Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.
The little buggers love the tootsie rolls👍
@@Steveshappylittletrees. Me toooo!
@@doghairdontcarelindaniel7531 what trigger did you use?
Hi Guy, Great talk. I bought an old farmhouse….. I would see mice constantly…… so I set a trap caught one then two, I started a tally 186 first year. Then 50 something next year. We have an area we don’t use and it’s full of rat/ mouse feces, I started the clean up process but how can I safely remove the rest of the feces and urine smell from wood floors? Thanks in advance.
Clean the floors really well with any detergent you like. After the floors are clean, you can mop them with a 10% bleach solution. One part Clorox to nine parts of water. Add some detergent to break the tensile strength of the water. If this is a finished floor, then test it on a small area that can't be seen to make sure it does not discolor or damage the surface. If this is a floor that you don't care about, then get it nice and wet and let it soak for a couple of minutes. This should neutralize the odor and disinfect it as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, if you get a chance can you breakdown the process of removing urine and feces from wood floors from start to finish. I need a little more detail if you would please and was this part of your extermination process, cleaning up the deep soiled deposits? I like how you talk about DIY to save money if I had the cash I would pay someone but I am like most just enough to cover the mortgage.
I finally plugged the holes, I missed this one very important step.
Thank you Guy!
@@Irish-eyes-793 Okay. Please tell me a little more about the floors. Are these floors hardwood or soft wood? Are they finished with some sort of sealer? If they are not sealed in any way, are you planning to seal them when you are finished? Will you be sanding them? Just let me know and I will try and give you a detailed answer. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, It's an attach garage that I only store lawn mowers and x-mas stuff so, it is not heated or used that much. The floors are an old style plank hard wood. So its a great place for rodents but I declared war on them. LOL. I was thinking of cleaning and then painting or staining the floors to get rid of unwanted smell and maybe this will drive the rodents out for good. FYI the rat(s) kept taking my mouse traps for their snack, I would find them upstairs with no mouse. So i put a dead mouse behind the rat trap and bam it got his arm and I went in and finished the job. The rat spooked me honestly he showed me his teeth. But he messed with the wrong Irishmen and I am committed. I have almost everything out from upstairs to begin cleaning over the holiday break. But I need your help with doing this safe. I was thinking a wet sweep or semi-wet so know dust can be inhaled, mask and other precautions as well. But I was wondering how the pro's do it! Thanks Guy!
@@Irish-eyes-793 It sounds like you don't care about the floors, so I would mix a solution of 10% Clorox and water. Add any detergent you like to it to break the tensile strength of the water. Just use the amount recommended on the detergent bottle. Pin-Sol would be a good choice. Get a real mop and not a sponge mop. Wet mop the floor with it and make sure that the floor is very wet and kind of work it in with the mop. Do not try to mop up the excess water. Just let it dry naturally. The problem is that the urine has probably soaked into the wood, so you need to let the Clorox solution soak in as well. You may need to repeat this several times. Each treatment should lower the smell more and more. You may not get the odor 100% out, but you may reduce it by 90% or more. After it is nice and dry, then treat the floor with Bora-Care. Mix it 1 to 1 with water using a drill and paint mixer attachment. Pour it into a cheap garden sprayer and spray down all the wood with it. Let that dry for at least 48 hours. I would wait at least 7 days. Then seal it any way you like. If you paint, be sure to use a primer like Kilz before you paint. This will penetrate the wood very well and make the paint hold up a lot better. I will give you a link to the Bora-Care and a video on how to use it. The Bora-Care will not help with the odor, but it will make the wood termite proof. You may as well be proactive with that while you are doing it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html
Bora-Care video: th-cam.com/video/Rmr_aEodyhg/w-d-xo.html
Great info! Thank you!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Very knowledgeable and social sir
Thanks. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
By trial and error, I started putting peanut butter in a sandwich bag near the corner. Cut a tiny triangle off and pipe it into the hollow in bait holder. They can get to it, but have to work to get any, I no longer bend the holding tab to make them more sensitive.
Now to my question. From the smell of it and past scratching in the wall, I think we have a nest. It's on an outside wall and the sill plate doesn't allow easy access from the bottom. Anything we can do to clean that out besides opening up the wall? There is a receptacle possibly in that joist space, as an electrician would taking out the box and working from the top down help any?
I've placed traps in the basement on the top of the block, but never seem to catch much, two in two years. It's my gf's house, and she used to have Batzners, but at $40/month, I wasn't impressed.
A trail camera will be ordered tonight and set up, in the mean time, off to watch more of your videos. Your willingness to help and suggestions are greatly appreciated, do you have a donate button set up somewhere? I'd also like to thank you and the others in the comments for your service!
*edited for fat finger typoss
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I never ask for donations, but videos do cost money to make, so contributions are appreciated. If you would like to make a donation, the best way to do it is to email an Amazon gift card to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. You can purchase them in amounts as little as $1.
Unfortunately, removing a wall outlet is not an easy process. Not only are the outlet boxes secured to the studs, but there is typically a wire staple that is holding the wires to the stud. Those staples prevent the box from easily being removed. You can cut through the wall to access the nest, but in most cases, the best thing to do is just leave it there. It sounds like you already know my solution for finding the access points, so I would do that first. Find out where they are getting in, and then seal it up. If the mice have no other means of escape, then they are most likely going to die in the wall. This is only a problem if it starts to create an odor. If you would like to avoid that possibility, then you could get creative. Instead of cutting a hole in the wall that needs to be repaired, you can create a very small hole in the wall that is only about 1/2 in diameter. You can do this by using a drill and one-half inch drill bit. Just drill the hole in the wall void, being careful not to hit any studs. Since you have the exit points on the outside sealed, the mice will have no choice but to exit through that hole you created. Of course, this is bringing them directly into the house. Therefore, you need to limit their ability to escape. Buy a multiple catch trap from Amazon. This type of a trap will capture multiple mice at one time. Place it in a cardboard box and secure that box to the wall with some masking tape. The masking tape will not damage the wall. Make sure there is no route for escape. The side of the box that is attached to the wall should be completely removed, so there is no place for them to hide. Use the smallest box possible and try to tape some cardboard barriers in there to direct the mice to the hole. Make sure that you have food in the trap, and you will be good to go. I recommend that you cut a trap door in the top of the box that you can seal with the masking tape. This way you can have a look inside the box before you remove it from the wall. I mean, you don't want a bunch of mice running out when you remove the box. So, if you look in and there are no mice anywhere, then you can go ahead and remove the box and check to see what is in the trap. Naturally, you want to do this for several days, until you are sure that you got them all. Some people might regard this as out of the box thinking, but it is really in the box thinking. LOL. Keep in mind that it is still possible that some of the babies may be too young to make their way into your trap, so they may still die in the wall. Nevertheless, I think this is about the best you can do without doing too much damage to the wall.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Multiple catch mouse trap: www.amazon.com/Kness-Pro-Ketch-104-0-002-Multiple-Catch/dp/B000FJTWH8/ref=sr_1_32?crid=3EY9X7T0IX678&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.moeFDse6bdTycO80kAFyGU-y93V5SAmNy3qWsqj8KBCwMPrYFG7mgO-oo7JEY_TSwIoJ6GsiPJ3d3nWwBiwXIbTeSAu15OxPJaz4BpYKNbLiPUCrYla-XEMyYq8nWyUhIanbQQctgZK-aaRjq6xPjbwvZLCq6cAqeb8jmy9j6be9Nrh4gKtb_zqfuY2CgHTzir8bpoCMwvgfXr1g59cNVU30jAOB7wvfiCr7xRoWJ3LaxVLTtn8aYrDnHY-GUhC3G67HTH53UssAxU0Fn7LY2fpUFMDAvSfBqZu7vY_fehY.lzDcd1UZMUxxDz65PRMV_abedKHDW8YV7f2vUIxywok&dib_tag=se&keywords=multiple%2Bcatch%2Bmouse%2Btrap&qid=1728396900&sprefix=multiple%2Bcatch%2Bm%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-32&th=1
@@GuysPestSolutions That was the rest of the story I was missing! There's already a decent smell coming through the wall, I wasn't looking to add to it.
Maybe a couple of holes above also to drip bleach/cleaner/water mixture in to help speed up the smell removal?
Out of the box is right up my alley, as well as your help and videos, gift card will be on it's way momentarily. I also urge others that have been helped to support Guy, not many people willing to share professional experiences like this!
Thanks, have a great day, and please don't wait so long for your next vacation!
@@ChrisInWi68 The smell situation is hard. You could try your bleach solution. It may work. If it were me, I would seal the outlets and wall switches on that wall. Go to the plumbing section of any hardware store and buy plumber's putty. You can shape it like Play-Doh, and it never hardens. Remove the covers and just roll up the putty into the shape you need to seal all spaces around the outlet and wall. The excess will squeeze out and is easily wiped off. If you seal up all the openings, the smell may not get out. It's kind of like putting something smelly in a jar. You can't smell it much with the lid on, but boy does it smell when you open it. So, this is kind of like sealing the jar.
Thank you so much for those kind words and for the donation. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
i used peanut butter and baking soda like 3 tablespoons put it inside and outside cheap way to get rid of them..
I feel so miserable and alone. I have at least one mouse. I thought I had all the areas sealed and I’m not sure if all of them were found or if it’s coming in another way, or if it was still inside when I had them sealed and now it’s just living inside. Orkin put down traps where it was likely coming to and from those prior entry points and rodenticide in the walls (prior to sealing). Now I’m afraid it’s just living here and I feel even worse than before getting the holes sealed. I don’t know what to do. I feel like throwing up every second and I am blasting music 24/7 and I’m terrified. I don’t know where it’s going. I saw it in my living room earlier. Before I sealed the holes I only saw it in my kitchen. Pest control only comes to the apartment complex once per week. They come tomorrow. I don’t want to be left alone any longer with this issue.
I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I can feel your fear. The problem with having mice in an apartment complex is that, to stop them from coming in, you should really seal the outside of the building. As a tenant you cannot do that, so the best you can do is to try to seal them out from the inside of the apartment. This is not easy to do because a mouse can squeeze through an opening about one quart of an inch in diameter. The pest controller may or may not have found all the openings outside. Since you cannot trust that you need to take mattress into your own hands. It sounds like you did a pretty good job sealing as many openings as you could find inside the apartment. Let's just go through the list though to make sure that you catch all the possible areas. Start with the entry door to the apartment. Make sure there are no openings around the door. It is very common to have a gap under the door, or very near to the bottom of the door on one of the sides. If you have a friend shine a flashlight from the outside, along the edges of the door, while it is shut, then you can easily see if there are any gaps around the door. If there are, you can purchase items from Amazon that will allow you to seal these areas. You also want to check under all the sinks to make sure that there are no gaps around the pipes. Sometimes in apartments there may be gaps around the outlets or switches. This can happen when the outlet or switch was not installed properly. Check to make sure that all the faceplates are tight against the wall. Also check around light fixtures and ceiling fans. Open all the cabinets and make sure there are no holes behind any of them. To do this, you may need to pull all the drawers out of the base cabinets. Be sure to check behind all the furniture to make sure that there are no large gaps under the baseboards. Remember, a mouse can get through a very small opening, so you can leave no stone unturned.
After you are certain that you have everything sealed that can possibly be sealed, then you need to go after the ones that are trapped in your apartment. As I explain in my video, I think the most efficient way to do this is with a snap trap. The key though is that you must place them properly. I would not trust the pest control company to get it right. You need to look for evidence of mouse activity, like mouse droppings or areas where they may have been gnawing on something. Also look for nesting material and listen for sounds of activity as well. After you have identified areas where you think the mice may be active, then set the snap traps so that the trigger is facing the wall. Mice like to travel right up against the wall, so you want that mousetrap set right against the wall. I always try peanut butter first as a bait, but if you find that they are licking it off, switch to marshmallow. Since mice need to eat, do not allow them any other food source, other than the traps. Make sure that you have all food in airtight containers, and do not leave any dishes in the sink overnight. Take the trash out every day, or get a trash can with a sealed lid. If they can find no other food source in your apartment, and they cannot escape from the apartment, then they will have no choice but to seek out the food in the traps.
Even though mice are quite timid and really no threat to people, I cannot stand them either, so those things really need to go. I hope these suggestions are of some help to you. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi, thank you for your comment and video, I'm not the original commenter but I was wondering how many traps would you reccomend per mouse? And, what if the activity is underneath/inside my oven (with no defined walls)? My town-house is currently infested with mice and it is driving me nuts! I'm very close to calling a proffesional but wanted to see what I could do as a last ditch effort. Your video was very informative, thank you!@
@@DuhPhok Multiple unit buildings, like townhomes, always present a problem with pest control. That is because you cannot control what your neighbors are doing, and you share walls. As you learned in the video, the first line of defense against mice is to build them out. You need to seal all the openings where a mouse can get in. Since a mouse can get through an opening as small as a quarter of an inch, it becomes somewhat challenging in a multi-unit building. Normally, we seal up the openings from the outside, but with a multi-unit building this can become problematic. Therefore, you need to start by finding all of the possible entryways into your town home. One of the most obvious ways, but most overlooked ways, for mice to get in is right through the front door. Check to make sure there are no gaps around the entrance doors. It is not unusual for the weather seal around the door to be compromised, or the door sweep at the bottom of the door. Always check under the sink and make sure that there are no cracks or crevices around pipes. Check around the stove for cracks and crevices. If the stove is electric, then there may be an opening around the outlet where it plugs in. If it's gas, there may be an opening around the gas pipe. Go around the entire unit and check for outlets that were installed improperly. When you see a gap between the outlet plate and the wall, then you need to seal that. You should always remove all drawers from cabinets and check to make sure there are no openings anywhere under those cabinets. It is also a good idea to remove the dishwasher and check that space as well. You also want to check around all baseboards and make sure that everything is sealed tightly. Finally, don't forget to check the attic. One of the most common ways for mice to get into a townhome is from an adjoining unit in the attic. When you have a lot of mice, there's a good chance that they are getting in from either the outside or from an adjoining unit. Since they may be coming from the outside, you should also check the outside of the walls that you own, and see if you can find any openings there as well.
After you have everything sealed as well as you possibly can, then it is not a question of how many traps you use. It's more of a question of how you use them. You know that you have activity in and around the stove, so that would be the first place I would set my traps. You said that there are no defined walls, but I do not know what that means. What you need to do is place the traps so that the trigger is facing the wall, or the path where they will be traveling. Sometimes you can place the trap between the stove and the wall. You may not be able to put the trigger facing the wall, but that's okay because there will be a confined space for the mice to travel. If you cannot slip the trap between the stove and the wall, you may be able to pull the stove out a little bit to allow you to do that. There is a very good chance that these guys are moving around under the stove, so you need to offer them a meal that is right next to the stove. Obviously, you want to make sure that stove is squeaky clean, and you don't want to leave any food for them. The only food that should be available to them should be what is in the traps. It is okay to use more than one trap around the stove, but I don't think you need a lot of them. Just two or three should be fine.
Also check the rest of your unit for activity. Look for mouse droppings, nesting material, and that sort of thing. If you find anything like that, then this would also be a good area to set traps.
Naturally, you should never leave pet food or water bowls out overnight, because that would be assisting the mice. Always make sure that there is nothing for them to eat or drink, so they will have no choice but to go after the bait.
Let me know if you find activity in the attic. I normally do not use a bait inside because I don't want dead bodies laying around, but it could make sense to use a bait in the attic. So, if you have activity in the attic, I would be happy to recommend a bait for you.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@DuhPhok Multiple unit buildings, like townhomes, always present a problem with pest control. That is because you cannot control what your neighbors are doing, and you share walls. As you learned in the video, the first line of defense against mice is to build them out. You need to seal all the openings where a mouse can get in. Since a mouse can get into it opening as small as a quarter of an inch, it becomes somewhat challenging in a multi-unit building. Normally, we seal up the openings from the outside, but with a multi-unit building this can become problematic. Therefore, you need to start by finding all the possible entryways into your town home. One of the most obvious ways, but most overlooked ways, for mice to get in is right through the front door. Check to make sure there are no gaps around the entrance doors. It is not unusual for the weather seal around the door to be compromised, or the door sweep at the bottom of the door. Always check under the sink and make sure that there are no cracks or crevices around pipes. Check around the stove for cracks and crevices. If the stove is electric, then there may be an opening around the outlet where it plugs in. If it's gas, there may be an opening around the gas pipe. Go around the entire unit and check for outlets that were installed improperly. When you see a gap between the switch plate and the wall, then you need to seal that. You should always remove all drawers from cabinets and check to make sure there are no openings anywhere under those cabinets. It is also a good idea to remove the dishwasher and check that space as well. You also want to check around all baseboards and make sure that everything is sealed tightly. Finally, don't forget to check the attic. One of the most common ways for mice to get into a townhome is from an adjoining unit in the attic. When you have a lot of mice, there's a good chance that they are getting in from either the outside or from an adjoining unit. Since they may be coming from the outside, you should also check the outside of the walls that you own and see if you can find any openings there as well.
After you have everything sealed as well as you possibly can, then it is not a question of how many traps you use. It's more of a question of how you use them. You know that you have activity in and around the stove, so that would be the first place I would set my traps. You said that there are no defined walls, but I do not know what that means. What you need to do is place the traps so that the trigger is facing the wall, or the path where they will be traveling. Sometimes you can place the trap between the stove and the wall. You may not be able to put the trigger facing the wall, but that's okay because there will be a confined space for the mice to travel. If you cannot slip the trap between the stove and the wall, you may be able to pull the stove out a little bit to allow you to do that. There is a very good chance that these guys are moving around under the stove, so you need to offer them a meal that is right next to the stove. Obviously, you want to make sure that the stove is squeaky clean, and you don't want to leave any food for them. The only food that should be available to them should be what is in the traps. It is okay to use more than one trap around the stove, but I don't think you need a lot of them. Just two or three should be fine.
Also check the rest of your unit for activity. Look for mouse droppings, nesting material, and that sort of thing. If you find anything like that, then this would also be a good area to set traps.
Naturally, you should never leave pet food or water bowls out overnight, because that would be assisting the mice. Always make sure that there is nothing for them to eat or drink, so they will have no choice but to go after the bait.
Let me know if you find any activity in the attic. I normally do not use a bait inside because I don't want dead bodies lying around, but it could make sense to use a bait in the attic. So, if you have activity in the attic, I would be happy to recommend a bait for you.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much for your amazing and detailed response. You truly care for people. I’m very grateful for your help.
How can I get over the fear of finding them? Of using my kitchen (even going into my kitchen)? I’m living out of my dishwasher. I am paralyzed and cannot efficiently do my chores (especially my laundry which is in the kitchen space). I even fear checking traps.
I got two of them- found out they were harboring behind the fridge, but it took forever to get them and eventually got traps in the right place. Also have been sure that all entry points have been sealed (prior to catching them). A couple weeks later and I’m almost positive I can hear one scampering around sometimes and I’m at a loss as to where it could be hiding (even though I don’t want to check). I have not seen new droppings out in the open. Even before catching the two mice there weren’t a lot of droppings.
I am so miserable. How can I overcome this fear? What could be happening regarding not being able to find/catch these mice?
What is the 100 percent way to get rid of them? We all know the obvious sealing holes.those metle traps are not that good. I bought 2. I got much better traps on Amazon surprised you do not know about them,
There are an endless number of different traps you can get for mice. I find that the regular old snap traps work fine if you use them correctly. You need to use marshmallow as the bait and you need to place the trigger next to the wall, where you are seeing the activity. They have never failed me. They are cheap and easy to use. I have used some others and they do work fine as well. Just more expensive. So, it doesn't really matter what trap you use. If you find one that you like, then just go with that. The key is though that you need to stop them from coming in. If you don't do that, then you will never end the problem. Let me know if you cannot find where they are coming in and I will explain how I do it. Keep in mind that a mouse can get through a hole that is 1/4 inch wide.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
The rats or mouse whatever they call them I want them out from my apartment.
Any tips on how to prevent them from going on my stove at night.
The first thing you need to do is to stop them from coming in. Please watch the part of the video that explains how to do that. If you cannot figure out how they are getting in, then let me know and I will give you some tips on how to figure it out. After you build them out, then you can treat the ones that are left inside, by trapping them.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I thought we were going get rid of mice not repair our house or
It's the same thing. If you want to get rid of the mice, then you need to repair the house. That's just the reality of the situation. Be well my friend.
Noticed that I had a mouse about a month ago. Then noticed that there's mouse poop in and behind my kitchen drawers. Mounds of shit. Realized that every kitchen utensil has mouse crap on it. Killed the mouse. Freaking out how do I get rid of mice and mouse shit. I can't move. Please help me. I refuse to cook or eat . I'm grossed out.
Do you live in an apartment or a single-family home? Be well Jackie.
@@GuysPestSolutions Single family. I did kill one mouse yesterday. How can I clean and sanitize?
@@jackieblue787 Perfect. Single family homes are easy. Just follow the advice in the video. If you cannot find the entry points, then write to me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will give you the secret. TH-cam deletes it when I post it here. You can clean the mess with any household cleaner in a bucket. If you like, you can follow up with a 1 to 10 mixture of bleach and water to eliminate odor. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
I live in apartment how can I find where the mice are getting in? My sister in apartment across the hall has them too.. I am petrified of them. 🥺😫
@@irenemastroddi9722 I am so sorry that you're having this problem. The mice are almost always coming in from the outside, although in an apartment building, it is possible they are coming from and adjoining apartment. Nevertheless, the problem is the same. In a single-family dwelling, we would seal the openings on the outside of the building, which are usually pretty easy to find. Since you are renting an apartment, it is not practical to seal the openings on the outside of the building. That means you need to find where they are getting in from the inside. This is not always easy to do. Mice can get through an opening the size of a dime. A good place to start though is to look any place there are pipe penetrations. You will find these under the sinks, behind the refrigerator, behind the stove, and that sort of thing. Go around the perimeter of the apartment and look for any opening, no matter how small. You can usually seal them up with a little bit of steel wool. Don't forget to check the outlets. If you have gaps around the outlet covers, you can seal those outlets with plumbers' putty. This is available at any hardware store in the plumbing section. It works a lot like Play-Doh. It never hardens and you can mold it into any shape you wish. Simply remove the outlet cover, mold the plumbers' putty around the outlet cover and around the outlet itself. Then push the outlet cover back into place and the excess will squeeze out. Put the screw back in and then simply remove the excess plumber's putty and you will have a nice, neat job. Since the plumber's party does not harden, the outlet cover can be easily removed if it needs to be serviced in the future.
I hope that helps. Be well Irene.