Where can i get this and how would installation work? (I’m sorry if this is common knowledge this is my first 3d printer and I want to add this.) do you have any links? I can’t seem to find anything.
@@whynot1284 Will need to double check the threading but: - M4 x 0.7 A2 Stainless Steel Nylon Lock Nuts - 18mm Silicone Bed Mounts However when you add the nuts, there may not be enough of the screw to attach too and will need to purchase longer screws. - M4 x 40mm Flat Head Socket Cap Screws 40mm might be too long, so maybe 30mm, depends on the spacing between the bed and the railing.
Securing the bolts to the bed with nuts is so simple but so overlooked. As soon as you said that I was like "AHA"! I'm literally working on my 83 Westy as I go back and forth from running calibration on this beast of a printer. I was also curious about replacing the spacers with the bushings. As you mentioned, without replacing those with the silicone, its nearly impossible to get the perimeter tensionsers tight without the bed bulging in the middle. I'll be replacing those, now, and see what happens from there. Thanks for taking the time to supply this information!
Blue threadlocker will hold it where you tighten it but still allow you to take it apart. If you never need to disassemble...go with red. It'll never get loose again.
The Q1 Pro is just out of this world been printing on mine for almost 3 weeks straight nonstop everyday no fails 0 problems, for my large format printer I'm going with the sovol SV08
I used a nylon washer and a wing nut. Set your wheels to the right level and up against the wheel put the nylon washer then the wing nut to tighten the nylon washer to the wheel.
I got myself a neptune 4 pro as a first printer. wow, I know and understand your frustration. Lucky, customer support is very good but I have spend more time tinkering to get that thing to print than printing. Did the silicone busihings and that helped a bunch... Also, got myself a bambu p1s and have had no frustrations yet with that printer. I start two print jobs, one on the neptune and one on the p1s, and I keep checkig the neptune, but ignore that p1s, because I can. It just works. I am much happier to tinker with the Neptune now, because at least I have a print in the P1s that I know will work. That being said, Neptune is not bad, just a bit of a 3d printing learning curve to get things going
@@OuterRimArmorer right out of the box I got the blob of death. Replaced the hot end but now I can’t get two good prints in a row. It will do one great then the next will fail. Different fail points each time. I’ve seen layer shifts, stringing fails and failed supports. I’m running a print right now with your or orca settings. 🤞
@@hotshoestudiosfor the supports getting knocked off, in your orca slicer, under printer settings, look for the Extruder section and scroll down to double check that z hop is enabled. Mine is set to normal with “z hop when retracting” setting of .4mm. Enabling z hop helped my printer stop knocking supports off the bed. How is your first layer looking? Did you see my video on getting the best first layer?
@@OuterRimArmorer thank you! I got my first good print in a long time using your tips. Ran 19 hours perfectly. Going to try for a repeat tonight. You've been a big help!
To be honest I don’t pay much attention to that because the bed level changes so often. I pay closer attention to my first layer adhesion than I do the bed level but I do try and keep the numbers under .1 range if I can. Doesn’t always happen though.
Great Video, I am curious. I noticed you do not have the fans attached to the back. Why? and does it affect the printer by not having it?? I have the Neptune 4 Max and am curious..
still deciding if I should buy this one as my first printer ;o]] I don't want anything small (or too expensive) as some of the projects I would want to do with it require similar build area volume
I have mine a few weeks now. I've found that no matter what I do, it will always start scraping after the first few layers. I've tightened the gantry and hot end but without success. My old Creality held level longer than this thing.
I fixed the scraping problem by printing at a lot hotter temperature. PETG did not melt fast enought at the recommended temperature (e.g. 235*C for Verbatim PETG Red 1Kg), causing strands of insufficiently melted filament to rise. The solution was to slow down the print speed to less than 50% of the default one. Since figuring this out, I printed PETG at 265-270*C, depending on the brand, and never had any problem at the default print speed from Elegoo Cura or Oorca Slicer with the "normal" speed set in the printer.
On my Neptune 4 Max (My 3rd 3D printer/nightmare) I have been having some issues with the first layer, and some print jobs have failed over time (85%, 60%, less or more of the total duration). I have watched another guys's video, and he found out that the bed height fluctuates between the heating up and the print job, and the delta is a few mm, in total like 1-2 layers. It seems that initially the bed goes down, then with the heating it starts going up. So, he suggested to heat the bed for about 30 minutes or more, before doing the manual leveling and start a print Job. That could actually be the root cause for the bed levelling issues. I have also discovered that the nuts under my N4Max's bed were a bit too lose, so I have tightened them all up, but it seems that things become worse. Now the bed plate is less wobbly, but it has become a bit too stiff when moving back and forth, and it seems to be uneven; that might be another reason why the z-axis offset changes, depending on where I measure, but I cannot say right now, because I have no bubble level (I have ordered one which will arrive on Monday, along with two square levels). On my Creality Ender3 S1 Plus (My second 3D printer/nightmare), which has the same bed levelling issues, following someone's video, I have put two small nuts in the screw, just between the bed plate and the springs, because that way, the screw does not rotate too much. I have also printed, from some website, 4 wheels stoppers: they are some PLA stoppers, installed between the spring and the wheel, that end up touching the wheel, so they make resistance to the wheel rotation... I might try the same remedy on the Neptune 4 Max, because I do not want to go all the way as removing the bed plate, and they might be the same shape and size (if I am lucky). I have made one thing, which I am still trying to troubleshoot. I have tightened up all the bed wheels screws, to the point where they cannot move; that way, the plate is unable to move, sticking to the bottom, and the z-axis gets very low. Then I went to the level menu, and I have checked the z-axis offset, making sure not to start a manual leveling, or an automated one. I took my A4 sheet, and I have done this: for every point of the manual levelling option, I was changing the z-axis offset until the A4 sheet was fine under the nozzle, then going back/cancelling the manual levelling, and changing it up or down, until the A4 sheet was ok. I have done so for each of the 6 points of the manual levelling. I have realised that the value of my z-axis was not the same in every point, despite all the screws were completely tightened. That made me think that the bed, somehow, is not uniform. But until I get the square levels and the bubble level, I will not be sure... Just some thoughts I wanted to share with you guys
Have you heard of the Screw Tilt for Klipper. I’ve heard it’s helpful for dialing in the bed level on the EN4M. I do heat up my bed before printing anything. I believe it’s called heat soaked. Personally I’ve used Silicone spacers and locking nuts to dial in my bed level and haven’t had to touch the manual bed leveling since. It was a pain to do but so far it’s worked great. I also removed the POM wheels and went with linear rails. It’s a great upgrade. I don’t have to mess with eccentric nuts under the bed and it moves super smoothly. If you need help with anything hit me up.
Hi, Thank you so much for the reply with the advice. I have heard somewhere about the screw tilt, but English is not my first language and, as they did not mention the exact name, I kind of missed out. Have you got a video anywhere, showing the linear rails? I'm quite new to 3D printing, and I am discovering new stuff literally every day! I am very curious @@OuterRimArmorer
I saw a video where on the huge beds of the N4Max it takes about 25 minutes for the bed to completely saturate with heat and the flexing/warping to become stable. After that is when to do the bed leveling. Have you tried this yet? And on a semi-related note, I'd love to see someone try and better insulate the whole bottom of the bed to retain heat better farther away from the center.
I have done the heat soak. I now do that on every printer I own before leveling and printing. It was the most noticeable for me on my Sovol SV08’s. They have a taco bed mesh if you don’t heat soak them for at least 30 minutes and sometimes even afterwards. Which requires some mods to did but that’s a whole other issue. lol
also i noticed, you should install your strain relief holder on your hotend. it isn't worth the weight savings. ...hotends aren't even available yet. 😂 i can't wait to get an assortment of larger nozzles... it's gonna be a beast!! ..gonna get the orange storm giga too!
Yep@@OuterRimArmorer I bought some as well about a week ago. Can't wait to get that hardened steel nozzle in for this CF PA6 Nylon filament I got to create the final product for a bicycle handlebar stem I designed.
it took me 6 days to dial in my neptune 4 max. i'm finally sending my first customer print on it right now.. it was a pain to set up. this is my 11th printer.
I'm trying to return my 4 Pro for these same reasons and some others. Fortunately I got a disasterous blob that shook all those knobs underneath the build plate loose and basically blocked the entire printhead so that I could not even heat it to get rid of the blob. They of course offered to send me New print head but I said no, I'm returning it. Getting a Bambu instead.
My thoughts exactly. Blue threadlocker will hold it where you tighten it but still allow you to take it apart. If you never need to disassemble...go with red. It'll never get loose again.
Beem having issues with mine also gonna try silicone bu and see if they help out any, but i haven't had very much success the plate and Z offset are constantly off.
Hi I have a Neptune 4 Plus and having problems with leveling but the bed going forward/backwards at speed makes a really bad sound like a car screeching to a halt I've had bed wobble but sorted that out but its still making the noise any help would be welcome thanks.
A lot of people are missing something here. Simple point Why do you wanna put the shock absorbers before the weighted bricks? Is it a question? Maybe, if you could get the shock absorbers underneath the bricks, possibly, or even put a block. of granite. in the 3D printer before the shock absorbers. FYI just think about it...
Im still playing around with different configurations but I’m currently testing a big 24”x24” slab with shock absorber feet underneath. Seems to be working well but the base underneath still needs to be super sturdy. Otherwise it’s all pointless.
It takes more inertia force to move. a heavier object than a lighter one. That's generally the idea. So if you can make the 3D printer heavier along with sturdier. well, the base along with shock absorbers is not as necessary. but I wouldn't skip on them. Just FYI.@@OuterRimArmorer
Probably why my new CoreXY printers from Qidi weights are around 80 pounds each. They have enough power to still shake the tables but heavy enough to keep themselves anchored down.
sounds awesome I would try some of those shock absorbers directly against your garage concrete floor, let me know how the first benchy looks bet it's better then the desk top!! @@OuterRimArmorer
you know you got this just saying 😊 24x24 that would be awesome!!! how ever I do think Hight is a good expansion option, any ways at this point I have hads to much tequila lol but you got this would love to see your 24 by 24 printer
Brother, could you please make a video on belt tension and layer shift issues if you had problems with these two? I'm battling these issues and could really use some help
I was just going through layer shifting issues last night. I thought maybe my belt was to loose but the more I tightened it the worse my shifts were. I loosened up the belt and I’ve had 3 successful prints. I would have never guessed being to tight could cause issues too. I’m no expert but I’ll try and make a video on it when I find what appears to be the perfect belt tension. 👍
I just ordered the bushings for my 4 plus... now having issues after months with bed level out of the blue. Running out of screw to get the plate the right distance for the a4 paper
🤔 I’ve done two with the silicone bushings I suggested and they both print fine. The bed mesh isn’t perfect on then but that’s the case for all my printers. Maybe try adjusting the z height while it’s printing the first layer? I just did that on one of my printers after releveling the bed. It’s the only way to get my filament to be perfectly dialed in and sticking correctly. Sometimes I redue the print a couple times until I get the first layer right.
I’m not personally familiar with your printer but I have struggled in the past with trying to get my Sunlu printers to print fast. I was never able to get them to print fast. I was told a better hotend would have helped me. I thought using a larger nozzle size would help but I was recently told that increasing the nozzle size actually makes the flow of material slower. That the hotend is ultimately what determines the flow of material and not the nozzle. Honestly I still learn something new every day. Your best bet would be to join a group or two on FB or something that is specifically for your printer and ask what others have done or if it’s even possible. I ended up buying two new machines because it was cheaper than buying upgrades and trying to make mine sorta work better.
You can use those same ones but I believe a smaller set (maybe a 6 count max) would work better for yours. The ones linked would probably give you a several extra.
With the filament I’ve been using, I haven’t noticed any real improvement with it on or off. Maybe if I was using rapid/fast PLA it would come in handy. I have some new Meta PLA coming today. Maybe I’ll give it a try again with this new PLA. Best way to see if it’s helping is to just turn it off on one of your prints and see if you notice anything different.
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
out of all videos ive watched today to fix bed wobble u are the first that properly showed and explained how thank you
Glad I could be helpful!
Silicon bushings with nylon lock nuts. It’s crazy they made these printers and didn’t bother to add them given how fast they throw the bed around.
Where can i get this and how would installation work? (I’m sorry if this is common knowledge this is my first 3d printer and I want to add this.) do you have any links? I can’t seem to find anything.
@@whynot1284 Will need to double check the threading but:
- M4 x 0.7 A2 Stainless Steel Nylon Lock Nuts
- 18mm Silicone Bed Mounts
However when you add the nuts, there may not be enough of the screw to attach too and will need to purchase longer screws.
- M4 x 40mm Flat Head Socket Cap Screws
40mm might be too long, so maybe 30mm, depends on the spacing between the bed and the railing.
Easiest and cheapest way to do it.
Securing the bolts to the bed with nuts is so simple but so overlooked. As soon as you said that I was like "AHA"! I'm literally working on my 83 Westy as I go back and forth from running calibration on this beast of a printer.
I was also curious about replacing the spacers with the bushings.
As you mentioned, without replacing those with the silicone, its nearly impossible to get the perimeter tensionsers tight without the bed bulging in the middle.
I'll be replacing those, now, and see what happens from there.
Thanks for taking the time to supply this information!
Blue threadlocker will hold it where you tighten it but still allow you to take it apart. If you never need to disassemble...go with red. It'll never get loose again.
I did the red once. It was a bad idea. Lol
Awesome job man, I'll try some of the suggestions you made !💪🙏
The Q1 Pro is just out of this world been printing on mine for almost 3 weeks straight nonstop everyday no fails 0 problems, for my large format printer I'm going with the sovol SV08
From time to time mine will have failures. It’s to be expected. Overall I’m happy with mine. They have filled a need in my little farm.
I used a nylon washer and a wing nut. Set your wheels to the right level and up against the wheel put the nylon washer then the wing nut to tighten the nylon washer to the wheel.
Great idea
I got myself a neptune 4 pro as a first printer. wow, I know and understand your frustration. Lucky, customer support is very good but I have spend more time tinkering to get that thing to print than printing. Did the silicone busihings and that helped a bunch... Also, got myself a bambu p1s and have had no frustrations yet with that printer. I start two print jobs, one on the neptune and one on the p1s, and I keep checkig the neptune, but ignore that p1s, because I can. It just works. I am much happier to tinker with the Neptune now, because at least I have a print in the P1s that I know will work. That being said, Neptune is not bad, just a bit of a 3d printing learning curve to get things going
You're a patient man. I'm about to throw mine in the trash! I haven't been able to get two consistent prints out of it yet.
I just ordered a second one. They can be rough to figure out some times. What sort of issues are you having?
@@OuterRimArmorer right out of the box I got the blob of death. Replaced the hot end but now I can’t get two good prints in a row. It will do one great then the next will fail. Different fail points each time. I’ve seen layer shifts, stringing fails and failed supports. I’m running a print right now with your or orca settings. 🤞
@@hotshoestudiosfor the supports getting knocked off, in your orca slicer, under printer settings, look for the Extruder section and scroll down to double check that z hop is enabled. Mine is set to normal with “z hop when retracting” setting of .4mm. Enabling z hop helped my printer stop knocking supports off the bed. How is your first layer looking? Did you see my video on getting the best first layer?
@@OuterRimArmorer thank you! I got my first good print in a long time using your tips. Ran 19 hours perfectly. Going to try for a repeat tonight. You've been a big help!
@@hotshoestudiosyay that’s great to hear! Glad I could help.
Thanks for the video. I got some nice prints at the start than some that could not even got the first layer to stick 😅
great to follow. Could you put the designs of the bedhelp and the cablechain, please
Just added links to the description. 😉👍
thank u
Great video keep them coming. What is your bed level variance? I have the same printer and I am having a bad time getting mine under 0.1.
To be honest I don’t pay much attention to that because the bed level changes so often. I pay closer attention to my first layer adhesion than I do the bed level but I do try and keep the numbers under .1 range if I can. Doesn’t always happen though.
Great Video, I am curious. I noticed you do not have the fans attached to the back. Why? and does it affect the printer by not having it?? I have the Neptune 4 Max and am curious..
I had the fans on at first but turned them off and didn’t noticed any difference in quality so I removed them altogether.
still deciding if I should buy this one as my first printer ;o]]
I don't want anything small (or too expensive) as some of the projects I would want to do with it require similar build area volume
Gonna try this. Nasty issues with leveling after working fine for 3 months 😒😮💨 No link for the joint tho 🤔😒😂
I have mine a few weeks now. I've found that no matter what I do, it will always start scraping after the first few layers. I've tightened the gantry and hot end but without success. My old Creality held level longer than this thing.
I fixed the scraping problem by printing at a lot hotter temperature. PETG did not melt fast enought at the recommended temperature (e.g. 235*C for Verbatim PETG Red 1Kg), causing strands of insufficiently melted filament to rise. The solution was to slow down the print speed to less than 50% of the default one. Since figuring this out, I printed PETG at 265-270*C, depending on the brand, and never had any problem at the default print speed from Elegoo Cura or Oorca Slicer with the "normal" speed set in the printer.
That plumber’s crack at 8:22 though…
Yea that a (jam nut) approach. Awesome Idea!
I knew someone would know what that little thing was called. Lol
On my Neptune 4 Max (My 3rd 3D printer/nightmare) I have been having some issues with the first layer, and some print jobs have failed over time (85%, 60%, less or more of the total duration). I have watched another guys's video, and he found out that the bed height fluctuates between the heating up and the print job, and the delta is a few mm, in total like 1-2 layers. It seems that initially the bed goes down, then with the heating it starts going up. So, he suggested to heat the bed for about 30 minutes or more, before doing the manual leveling and start a print Job. That could actually be the root cause for the bed levelling issues.
I have also discovered that the nuts under my N4Max's bed were a bit too lose, so I have tightened them all up, but it seems that things become worse. Now the bed plate is less wobbly, but it has become a bit too stiff when moving back and forth, and it seems to be uneven; that might be another reason why the z-axis offset changes, depending on where I measure, but I cannot say right now, because I have no bubble level (I have ordered one which will arrive on Monday, along with two square levels).
On my Creality Ender3 S1 Plus (My second 3D printer/nightmare), which has the same bed levelling issues, following someone's video, I have put two small nuts in the screw, just between the bed plate and the springs, because that way, the screw does not rotate too much. I have also printed, from some website, 4 wheels stoppers: they are some PLA stoppers, installed between the spring and the wheel, that end up touching the wheel, so they make resistance to the wheel rotation... I might try the same remedy on the Neptune 4 Max, because I do not want to go all the way as removing the bed plate, and they might be the same shape and size (if I am lucky).
I have made one thing, which I am still trying to troubleshoot. I have tightened up all the bed wheels screws, to the point where they cannot move; that way, the plate is unable to move, sticking to the bottom, and the z-axis gets very low.
Then I went to the level menu, and I have checked the z-axis offset, making sure not to start a manual leveling, or an automated one. I took my A4 sheet, and I have done this: for every point of the manual levelling option, I was changing the z-axis offset until the A4 sheet was fine under the nozzle, then going back/cancelling the manual levelling, and changing it up or down, until the A4 sheet was ok. I have done so for each of the 6 points of the manual levelling. I have realised that the value of my z-axis was not the same in every point, despite all the screws were completely tightened. That made me think that the bed, somehow, is not uniform. But until I get the square levels and the bubble level, I will not be sure... Just some thoughts I wanted to share with you guys
Have you heard of the Screw Tilt for Klipper. I’ve heard it’s helpful for dialing in the bed level on the EN4M. I do heat up my bed before printing anything. I believe it’s called heat soaked. Personally I’ve used Silicone spacers and locking nuts to dial in my bed level and haven’t had to touch the manual bed leveling since. It was a pain to do but so far it’s worked great. I also removed the POM wheels and went with linear rails. It’s a great upgrade. I don’t have to mess with eccentric nuts under the bed and it moves super smoothly. If you need help with anything hit me up.
Hi, Thank you so much for the reply with the advice. I have heard somewhere about the screw tilt, but English is not my first language and, as they did not mention the exact name, I kind of missed out. Have you got a video anywhere, showing the linear rails? I'm quite new to 3D printing, and I am discovering new stuff literally every day! I am very curious
@@OuterRimArmorer
I saw a video where on the huge beds of the N4Max it takes about 25 minutes for the bed to completely saturate with heat and the flexing/warping to become stable. After that is when to do the bed leveling. Have you tried this yet? And on a semi-related note, I'd love to see someone try and better insulate the whole bottom of the bed to retain heat better farther away from the center.
I have done the heat soak. I now do that on every printer I own before leveling and printing. It was the most noticeable for me on my Sovol SV08’s. They have a taco bed mesh if you don’t heat soak them for at least 30 minutes and sometimes even afterwards. Which requires some mods to did but that’s a whole other issue. lol
also i noticed, you should install your strain relief holder on your hotend. it isn't worth the weight savings. ...hotends aren't even available yet. 😂 i can't wait to get an assortment of larger nozzles... it's gonna be a beast!! ..gonna get the orange storm giga too!
I ordered more nozzles as well.
@@OuterRimArmorer how? It’s a new nozzle design. And by that I mean where’s the link? lol 😂
@@Festivaljunkie I took a risk. Lol
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806142660387.html
Yep@@OuterRimArmorer I bought some as well about a week ago. Can't wait to get that hardened steel nozzle in for this CF PA6 Nylon filament I got to create the final product for a bicycle handlebar stem I designed.
Let us know how you make out with those 6mm nozzles!!
Cheers.
Will do!
it took me 6 days to dial in my neptune 4 max. i'm finally sending my first customer print on it right now.. it was a pain to set up. this is my 11th printer.
I'm trying to return my 4 Pro for these same reasons and some others. Fortunately I got a disasterous blob that shook all those knobs underneath the build plate loose and basically blocked the entire printhead so that I could not even heat it to get rid of the blob. They of course offered to send me New print head but I said no, I'm returning it. Getting a Bambu instead.
Sorry to hear that. Good luck with your new printer.
How about blue lok tight on the screws ? I’m up at 3 am starting a print .
Ps aren’t the hot ends all the same in the Neptune series? Ty
My thoughts exactly. Blue threadlocker will hold it where you tighten it but still allow you to take it apart. If you never need to disassemble...go with red. It'll never get loose again.
Beem having issues with mine also gonna try silicone bu and see if they help out any, but i haven't had very much success the plate and Z offset are constantly off.
It can take time to dial in the bed level manually. I do prefer the silicone bushings over the springs.
just got my max today (still in the box) and I already have a couple pros. I agree. smoke a joint. :) lol. just saying that got me to sub. lol
😆👍 thank you for the sub!
Nice work bro, What size nozzle and print speed you’re using on this print?
Currently using .4 nozzles but just received my order for .6 and .8 nozzles. I print around 250mms.
Hi I have a Neptune 4 Plus and having problems with leveling but the bed going forward/backwards at speed makes a really bad sound like a car screeching to a halt I've had bed wobble but sorted that out but its still making the noise any help would be welcome thanks.
A lot of people are missing something here. Simple point Why do you wanna put the shock absorbers before the weighted bricks? Is it a question? Maybe, if you could get the shock absorbers underneath the bricks, possibly, or even put a block. of granite. in the 3D printer before the shock absorbers. FYI just think about it...
Im still playing around with different configurations but I’m currently testing a big 24”x24” slab with shock absorber feet underneath. Seems to be working well but the base underneath still needs to be super sturdy. Otherwise it’s all pointless.
It takes more inertia force to move. a heavier object than a lighter one. That's generally the idea. So if you can make the 3D printer heavier along with sturdier. well, the base along with shock absorbers is not as necessary. but I wouldn't skip on them. Just FYI.@@OuterRimArmorer
Probably why my new CoreXY printers from Qidi weights are around 80 pounds each. They have enough power to still shake the tables but heavy enough to keep themselves anchored down.
sounds awesome I would try some of those shock absorbers directly against your garage concrete floor, let me know how the first benchy looks bet it's better then the desk top!!
@@OuterRimArmorer
you know you got this just saying 😊 24x24 that would be awesome!!! how ever I do think Hight is a good expansion option, any ways at this point I have hads to much tequila lol but you got this would love to see your 24 by 24 printer
Brother, could you please make a video on belt tension and layer shift issues if you had problems with these two? I'm battling these issues and could really use some help
I was just going through layer shifting issues last night. I thought maybe my belt was to loose but the more I tightened it the worse my shifts were. I loosened up the belt and I’ve had 3 successful prints. I would have never guessed being to tight could cause issues too. I’m no expert but I’ll try and make a video on it when I find what appears to be the perfect belt tension. 👍
Just published a short video. Hope it helps. Let me know if you need more info.
I just ordered the bushings for my 4 plus... now having issues after months with bed level out of the blue. Running out of screw to get the plate the right distance for the a4 paper
🤔 I’ve done two with the silicone bushings I suggested and they both print fine. The bed mesh isn’t perfect on then but that’s the case for all my printers. Maybe try adjusting the z height while it’s printing the first layer? I just did that on one of my printers after releveling the bed. It’s the only way to get my filament to be perfectly dialed in and sticking correctly. Sometimes I redue the print a couple times until I get the first layer right.
hi .. i have ideaformer printer and wonder if i can make this printer run faster .. its works with cura slicer..im not pro but like learn more
I’m not personally familiar with your printer but I have struggled in the past with trying to get my Sunlu printers to print fast. I was never able to get them to print fast. I was told a better hotend would have helped me. I thought using a larger nozzle size would help but I was recently told that increasing the nozzle size actually makes the flow of material slower. That the hotend is ultimately what determines the flow of material and not the nozzle. Honestly I still learn something new every day. Your best bet would be to join a group or two on FB or something that is specifically for your printer and ask what others have done or if it’s even possible. I ended up buying two new machines because it was cheaper than buying upgrades and trying to make mine sorta work better.
Do you know if the POM wheels on the Neptune 4 max the same as Ender 3s1?
I think so. I believe they are universal. I used a set of new wheels for a Creality CR10 that I had from my older printers to fix my EN4M.
Did you get longer screws for the silicon? I added them but the screws barely peep out the bottom
I think it took a little finesse to get the screws to work. You might have slightly larger bushings though.
@@OuterRimArmorer oh ok perfect to know! thanks! #ihate3dprinting
Does anyone know what silicone spacers can be used to upgrade the neptune 4 pro? Are they the same as the ones linked in the notes of this video?
You can use those same ones but I believe a smaller set (maybe a 6 count max) would work better for yours. The ones linked would probably give you a several extra.
Why do you not use the massive blower? Should I remove mine?
With the filament I’ve been using, I haven’t noticed any real improvement with it on or off. Maybe if I was using rapid/fast PLA it would come in handy. I have some new Meta PLA coming today. Maybe I’ll give it a try again with this new PLA. Best way to see if it’s helping is to just turn it off on one of your prints and see if you notice anything different.
@@OuterRimArmorer thanks, this 4 Max is my first 3D printer, I have lots to learn, I really appreciate your videos
@@Beakerzor No problem. I’m working on some slicer videos to help people with those as well.
I noticed once I turned mine off things printed much better and stopped popping off so much and failing.
@@erinohara7814 I think I will try the same, it will make fixing jams much faster
what size is the screw? I was thinking of getting lock washers that bit into the plastic wheel.
Have you tried blue loctite on all the threads?
Not yet but I might
just use a little drop of loctite 243 that wil do the job much easyer
hahaha... i made it to 10:00 in. totally agree. #3DbyJosh
that paper is thinker the A4, that can throw you off too
Was your layer shift from too tight of a belt?
It appears to be the case.