1997-2004 Dodge Dakota Front Brake Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on replacing Front Brakes/Rotors on a 1997-2004 2nd gen. Dodge Dakota. Torque Specs included.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech, just a long time wrencher.
Truck in video is a 2001 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 4WD.
That sound rattle shim was a pain in the ass I'm so glad you showed it I could not find a video that had it
Thank you! Appreciate the comment!
Don't believe anyone could of explained it any more specific and simple then that
Appreciate the comment!
Just a tip.. if you do find yourself having to whack that disc in the center with a hammer to free it, put the lug nuts back on the studs first. That will protect the stud threads from any inadvertent hammer strikes.
You can definitely do that if it makes you feel better! I personally use rubber mallets/dead blow as mentioned in the video…so personally, if I ever did miss…it wouldn’t harm anything. But I did mention using a regular hammer if you had too & don’t have a rubber dead blow, so if someone was gonna use a metal hammer that would definitely be a good precaution 👍
Thank you for the step by step. Most rush through the process because they have done it so many times, they skip telling us because they automatically do the step without explaining that step. So again thank you very much.
Thank you for the comment! I truly appreciate it!
I have a 2004 Dakota SLT 4-Door which has 2-piston calipers up front that has a different mounting set-up. 2 short bolts are 9/16 (14mm) for the caliper (to bracket) and 2 bolts are 13/16” for the bracket that mounts to the spindle assembly and holds the brake pads and where the caliper bolts to
Good info 👍
Just validating the above comment. I have an '04 quad cab and it has the same setup mentioned in this comment with the dual piston and caliper mounting bracket. I was looking for torque specs for the caliper mounting bracket.
Doing mine tonight wish me luck!
Good luck man! Just take your time & be patient 🤙
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you! I’m transforming my 97’ Dakota with my dad my grandma gave it to me and said if u can fix it you can have it in posting all my progress on instagram im super stoked abt this project
Nice man thats awesome! Good stuff. Hope everything goes smoothly with the project
Opening the bleeder valve while compressing the piston will prevent old dirty fluid from being pushed up to the master cylinder. When finished top off reservoir with fresh fluid.
Not necessary. Especially if the fluid is clean/good. If it makes you feel better, then go for it. More than one way to approach these jobs. But the real way would be siphoning out about 1/2 of the brake fluid from the MC before starting. Thats what Haynes manuals suggest, as well as most FSM’s. And if you’re really concerned with fluid condition, then you should be bleeding the brakes to get all that fluid out.
When you press the slider bolts are they supposed to go all the way through in the hole like is that normal if they do or is my caliper broken?
Yay, im gonna do my brakes on my dakota now. Do you have a video on rear brakes by chance?
I do not unfortunately. But if I ever get the opportunity, I will definitely make one.
Thanks!
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That clip isnt rubbing because rust build up. Look where your pads hook. I bet they're wearing a grove in the carrier.
Just an FYI for those of us that do our brakes. I know in the video you like to put everything back as it is suppose to be, but is that clip actually needed. As was shown in the video i am having the rub mark on the rotor as well..... just want to make sure it is OK to remove that clip. and also if i leave it will it damage the rotor if left on.... please advise?
Like I mentioned @ 22:08, most people just leave them off….So yes, you can get away without it. Really the two caliper slide pins are what are holding the caliper on. If you have new rotors, as I did in the video…then you can get away with installing the clamp because it should make no contact, like I mentioned. But more than likely in a year-two years when the rust builds up on that surface again, its more than likely going to start rubbing again. Really, as long as the rotor is new and/or the surface is free of rust, you should be able to utilize the clamp. But if not, its not the end of the world and the clamp isn’t detrimental to the setup.
i just wasted a hour of my life thinking that i was putting that clip on wrong.. what a stupid Design.,
i guess it’s supposed to come flying off if i have wheel spacers
I have a 1998 dodge Dakota and the bolts on the brake calipers were all loose and the spindle needs to be replaced could you show a video on how to do that
I definitely wouldn’t mind doing a video on it, I would just need a truck that needs that repaired to make the video lol. This isn’t my truck in the video, I just did the job on it. But if I ever get the opportunity, I would definitely make the video!
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Yup stupid design!
So stupid lol.