I'm glad you achieved success, this methods worked well for years. Even with your success when you did it, the parent metal was nowhere near hot enough to apply your rod and keep your rod out of the flame completely. If you look at the beginning part of your video before you started to heat aluminum you can see crevice inside the weld area where there was lack of flow. That's because you didn't heat the parent metal up enough there and when you did the reheat, you still didn't heat it up enough. It will work even better for you if you keep this parent metal much hotter before you apply the rod. And, while I agree a smaller diameter rod would wet in better, the lack of sufficient heat to the parent metal is more the culprit of the blobs of aluminum than the rod diameter is. I also suggest taking that map gas to a scrap of thinner aluminum and OVERHEAT it until it deforms so you get a feel for the symptoms. You have to get it hotter than you did.
I use it all the time to repair high pressure refrigeration coolers I don't buy it a harbor .freight. but at Grainger same stuff. it does work clean clean clean your parts good I use a oxygen acetylene torch 😁👍
Great demo, I was going back and forth about using this method to weld my radiator mounts and this solves the question as to will the weld be strong enough to hold. You just saved me $75 to the local welding shop. Im defiantly using this method. Great job.
a few years ago I bought some aluminum rods from Harbor Freight for a money saving venture. I could not have been happier with my results. after some major repairs to a Ford Taurus (my wifes vehicle) I found I created a problem with the AC. An aluminum line got bent a little too close to a bolt and wore a hole in the tube. cost of replacement with scrap yard parts was several hundred dollars. I took a chance and tried using aluminun rod. I sold the vehicle a few months ago ( more than 3 years since the repair) and the AC was still holding pressure. Because of the restricted area I had to work in I used a microtorch with butane. I should also note that I have what would be considered no welding experience ( unless you cound circuit board soldering then I have a lot). I hope your small adventure went as well.
This stuff works providing the person knows what they are doing, you sir obviously do. I repaired air conditioning lines with this stuff without fail, of course the system has to be emptied, evacuated, and opened first. One can never be too safe. Thanks for sharing your unbiased opinion. 👍🏻
I've used this process before; my opinion is that the success of the join us heavily dictated by the temperature of the work pieces, and more so the way that you can have an even temperature between pieces. I would use a chalk mark on the alloy and heat until it disappeared, which gets you pretty close to an ideal temperature.
thoroughly impressed!. I also do a lot of brazing and soldering but this is truly a game changer. I haven't heard to much about this stuff but I also don't hear about people brazing anymore. probably because no one knows how to do it anymore.
Thanks for making this video, it was good information. This stuff looks like it would come in handy for repairing aluminum tubing on or going to condensers. Unless you know of a better product for that
I haven't used the Harbor Freight product yet. But, I have repaired and fabricated a lot of dirt/street motorcycle components with HTS-2000 -- a similar aluminum brazing rod. As long as one gets the clean parts to "wet," the joint should be plenty strong. It does take a bit of practice to get used to the way it flows as mentioned in the video. Be sure the cleaning of the aluminum is done with a plastic scrounge pad, file, or stainless steel brush/wheel. Embedding regular steel into the aluminum could cause corrosion problems down the road. I've built mounting brackets, repaired worn out foot peg mounting holes for re-drilling, fixed swing arm chain guard/guide block mounting holes, etc. Big massive parts like motorcycle swing arms require oxy/acetylene, though, due to the fast heat-conducting properties of large chunks of aluminum. The stuff is a nice go-to solution for some projects and fixes.
ok , i have watched a few vids on this , but you really showed how to do this properly.i am working on building a recumbent trike and trailer for my daily commute. im thinking this will work perfect to build a light weight trailer!
I just did a job similar to yours, but I used propane and the Harbor Freight rods. I have this extension. Its called the Bernzomatic WH0159 Universal Torch Extension Hose. I use it with Coleman 2000015166 Propane Cylinder Bulk Adapter and hook it up to my 20lb propane tank. On the working end I use the TS 4000. The reason I like the hose is that it has a adjustment valve for the gas flow which the TS4000 doesn't have. I like it because I only use the torch in my shop and don't have to wonder If I running low on propane as often. Got the hose at HD and the adapter is on Amazon. I have Mapp gas but found out the propane just about as well as the Mapp. I like the hose because it's easier to handle the torch and the torch can be inverted. It just happened that I've had the 20lb tank for a long time which was hooked up to a BBQ. The BBq got old and I never used it so I gutted out the burners and use the pit for a welding station. Grate is useful for welding for certain jobs.I also have a brick on the grate to help heating the pieces.
I KNOW nothing on aluminium welding...but this application appears to be possibly very useful for aluminum bikes (I.e. bicycles/cargo bikes mtn. Bikes) . I have a design I wanted to build (personal use cargo bike/electric wheel hub system) it appears it's all in heat control...Thanks for your video!!!! Keep making them!!!
Thanks for the video. I was tempted to buy this stuff but it got a lot of thumbs down on the internet. Looks like if you do it correctly (have sufficient heat like MAP) and clean the joints that it does work. I'll pick my self up some next time I'm there now that I know it does work
Great video. You've taken all the nonsense out of this issue and laid it to rest. Now i shall proceed with confidence on repairing my outboard skeg. Thank you.
Treat your clean up the same as TIG welding. Also using a virgin stainless steel wire brush, OR clean, virgin sand paper/Emery cloth. Keep and eye those clean up parts, files, grinders etc separate from steel work or any other metal. These rods have been sold for years and were developed for the most part to repair old "pot" metal grills and side mirrors before replating. Many industry have found them superior to TIG welding in they need less equipment and training to effect repairs on simple aluminum parts and also it works well on cheaper cast parts as well and due to it's zinc content will actually attach to zinc/lead gavanized pipes. Saw a guy shape a temporary repair on an outside water pipe by cleaning pipe but not removing galvanizing then he clamped some aluminum half Moon rings around pipe on each side of hole then filled in between them. Looked odd but by golly it worked till pipes could be replaced properly
Hello I purchased some Alumirod at a flea market. It works great filling in holes in cans and larger cracks in aluminum but when it came down to a small crack in a 5 horsepower Tecumseh sump cover there was excessive amounts as you indicated. They tell you to wire brush area to keep it dull which I did but i could still see the crack line. I assembled the piece but it still leaked thru. I’m going to dremel out the area more including the cracked area and give it another try. Nice video
Don't make the same mistake a lot of people make. The alloys used to make these aluminum 'brazing' rods differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. There's no guarantee that what you bought at the flea market was indeed the same you can get from HF, unless of course it was marked with the same name, Alumiweld. The best I've used thus far, albeit expensive and not immediately available like the Alumiweld, is Muggy Weld. Muggy weld seems to perform better on wet out and is superior in bonding. They also have a low temperature rod, used with a liquid flux, that I use a lot for really small stuff when I can't conveniently use my welder or Alumiweld.
I have used this stuff and it works great. Map gas works better than propane but I have gotten it to work with just regular propane. It does put down too much material but I had success pulling some of it back off. Oxygen/acetylene is best you just have to not get it too hot.
Ive had success cutting a piece that I estimate will cover the area I need and get it and the surface hot till it flows then I lay that length down in the area I want it. The result is a cleaner looking "weld".
Great information. I have an aluminum tool box that had been broken. I need to cut the end out, straighten it, then try this to "weld" the end piece back in. "Talk amongst yourselves" that was funny! MB BAR RANCH
Nice demo. When you bend both pieces at the same time and not break the brazed bond your joint is good. Looks like you used 6063Al. I wonder if it works as good with 6061Al which is actual structural Al. Their weldability is about the same if I remember right.
It should work really good with a 00 or 000 tip with acetylene . Now I want to try it with my tig for those jobs where you really don't want too much heat build up . Thanks great video .
Comments from my friend at Arnold's Design about alumiweld: "I have some of those alumiweld rods here. A pack of them lasts quite a while. It's more of a solder, because it doesn't penetrate into the base metal. I'm pretty sure it's a type of high zinc alloy, or pot metal, because you can take a zinc rod, or even a zinc based penny and do the same thing. Alumiweld makes a nice looking joint, and is pretty strong, but I wouldn't really trust it with structural parts. I found it eventually oxidizes between the zinc and the aluminum, and the joint gets weak. I soldered my one drip tray together with it on my first vapor blaster. The second one was giving me fits trying to solder, so I got out my welder and actually welded the sucker together, which was actually easier. I used alumiweld on a prototype wet blasting gun too. The joint looked great, but after a few months of use it fell apart."
I usually use AL822 rods using an A2 tip for turbo torch or oxy acetylene 0 tip if I am doing copper joints also. I usually do evaps though.. I like my rods cuz it has Flux on them already
Only additional info I would look for is: Slicing through the brazed parts to see penetration. Repeat the process on 2 flats, like 2 pieces of the angle you used. Braze one side and then flex against the weakest connection. Intentional break to see penetration. Again just destruction test to see how the seam performs.
How far between the pieces does the brazing material penetrate or flow? Does it just puddle and lay on top? Does the melt; wet and flow or wick or act like "sweated" solder? My bad on choice of words.
I'm trying to use this to attach an aluminum ladder rack to an aluminum utility trailer. I'm using the gas from home depot un the yellow can but I cant seem to get it hot enough even after 15 minutes. Any suggestions?
Call video, the only thing I could say is cut it in half see the world from the inside it looks firm on the impact force, so it's probably good and maybe give her clearinformation on what products you purchase either a picture of the package or part number. All in all great video thanks.
Thanks for posting! I haven't tried soldering aluminum (aluminium) but have gotten the gas and torch. Your demo gives me assurance that it's not only possible, but can make a good joint. Hey, hopefully the trolls won't quit sniping, otherwise what fun would we have?
Nice Video What kind Rod was that? & you Used mapp gas? Can you buy all of these at harbor freight do you think it would work on 2" buy 1/4 inch flat bar
I doubt it is as strong as a good weld but it looks like you would destroy the component before breaking the joint so if it's not a critical component this should be good enough. The more tools at your disposal the better off you are. I too have a tig welder and can tig weld aluminum but especially with it being a transformer welder opposed to an inverter type this may be better on really thin aluminum .
It is if you're patient and use some common sense. It doesn't wet out like solder. It stays more solid than liquid and fluid. If you have a pool of shiny filler then you're at the right temperature. But, it does indeed work and it works very well.
Excellent demonstration, thanks! Now, try welding an aluminum tube to angle iron. Do you think a regular propane torch would suffice? Looks like Alumiweld doesn't wick around like a solder brazed on copper fittings.
Wow do I need help! I need to solder an aluminum bar that is very thin, if it helps you understand, I'm soldering one of those Halloween animated figures that use the black aluminum poles to keep the costume upright. I cracked the pole at a "T" junction. I tried solder but it's just too thin and falls right through (the kind used for electrical soldering) but the bar in your video will be far too thick to work with. What can I heat up to fill the crack and repair the break once it cools? Thanks so much
Tommy- you cannot "solder" aluminum with "normal" solder, beit electrical or plumbing, it won't bond to aluminum. Frankly, I can't relate to your Halloween thingy that uses 'black aluminum'?? If it's aluminum then it will have to be cleaned, probably by sanding (to make it metallic colored, not black) and the Alumiweld could work but you would have to use one of the smallest (in diameter) rods they provide. However, It also takes skill using a torch and a bit of experience if it's delicate. If you don't have a torch then you likely better try something else like an epoxy and perhaps a cloth wrap for strength. JB Weld is available at most Auto parts stores.
@@kaydee457 Thanks, and you were right, even the smallest rod was far too big, "Steelstik" by JB weld did the job perfectly. It hardens so well you can drill it...and I got E Z fuse tape to reinforce it. Many thanks
I can Tell you this good sir.. get good with that tig ..you can get much stronger and better welds you just need to ball the end of the tungsten and it helps using the proper tungsten for whatever the particular material your welding and thickness too..there are several tungsten types for aluminum. Great video though now I know I can use it and trust it lol
Well, I can tell you this, sir. I AM GOOD with the TIG but you cannot drag the TIG welder and bottles everywhere. Use the right tool for the right job! If you own a boat or a Camper you'd know what I mean....This stuff isn't meant to replace TIG it's meant as a way to get the job done when you can't weld......
Great video, question, do you think this method is safe to use to build am aluminum bicycle frame? Also where can I find information on the strength and limits of this technique. I like the simplicity of the method. I'd like to know how strong these joints are.
II am actually impressed this product worked as well as his test results prove out. I would have liked to have seen a cross section view of the actual braised section. This would tell us if the braising process actually combined and melted (fused) the 2 pieces together.
Thanks for the hammer test I’ve studying up on these rods for a boat spreader repair and am now confident it can reliably do the job,
I learned a lot from your video and the comments about the gas. Thank you.
Thanks for the video! I just bought some of these rods today from HF for a small project.
I'm glad you achieved success, this methods worked well for years. Even with your success when you did it, the parent metal was nowhere near hot enough to apply your rod and keep your rod out of the flame completely. If you look at the beginning part of your video before you started to heat aluminum you can see crevice inside the weld area where there was lack of flow. That's because you didn't heat the parent metal up enough there and when you did the reheat, you still didn't heat it up enough. It will work even better for you if you keep this parent metal much hotter before you apply the rod. And, while I agree a smaller diameter rod would wet in better, the lack of sufficient heat to the parent metal is more the culprit of the blobs of aluminum than the rod diameter is. I also suggest taking that map gas to a scrap of thinner aluminum and OVERHEAT it until it deforms so you get a feel for the symptoms. You have to get it hotter than you did.
Good video. I've been soldering all my life. You make it look easy
Thanks!
Great demo. Gives me a warm and fuzzy about using the Alumiweld.
I use it all the time to repair high pressure refrigeration coolers I don't buy it a harbor .freight. but at Grainger same stuff. it does work clean clean clean your parts good I use a oxygen acetylene torch 😁👍
Great demo, I was going back and forth about using this method to weld my radiator mounts and this solves the question as to will the weld be strong enough to hold. You just saved me $75 to the local welding shop. Im defiantly using this method. Great job.
a few years ago I bought some aluminum rods from Harbor Freight for a money saving venture. I could not have been happier with my results. after some major repairs to a Ford Taurus (my wifes vehicle) I found I created a problem with the AC. An aluminum line got bent a little too close to a bolt and wore a hole in the tube. cost of replacement with scrap yard parts was several hundred dollars. I took a chance and tried using aluminun rod. I sold the vehicle a few months ago ( more than 3 years since the repair) and the AC was still holding pressure. Because of the restricted area I had to work in I used a microtorch with butane. I should also note that I have what would be considered no welding experience ( unless you cound circuit board soldering then I have a lot). I hope your small adventure went as well.
Karl Jaros 7
Surface preparation is very important. Thanks for the video.
I like reviews like this. You have no vested interest in the company, and it's a honest review. Thanks, I'll be getting some rods in the near future.
This stuff works providing the person knows what they are doing, you sir obviously do. I repaired air conditioning lines with this stuff without fail, of course the system has to be emptied, evacuated, and opened first. One can never be too safe. Thanks for sharing your unbiased opinion. 👍🏻
I'll have to some of this stuff a try. Looks good.
Excellent! Im gonna go buy some now. Thanks for doing this.
I've used this process before; my opinion is that the success of the join us heavily dictated by the temperature of the work pieces, and more so the way that you can have an even temperature between pieces. I would use a chalk mark on the alloy and heat until it disappeared, which gets you pretty close to an ideal temperature.
If people would back bevel as well, they would have a better root. It all comes down to proper heat control though. Great job on that joint!
Whenever working with aluminium surface preparation is everything. Else, it simply won't weld, braze, paint, anodize or anything.
thoroughly impressed!. I also do a lot of brazing and soldering but this is truly a game changer. I haven't heard to much about this stuff but I also don't hear about people brazing anymore. probably because no one knows how to do it anymore.
Nicely done, enjoyed your work and your relaxed delivery.
Thanks for making this video, it was good information. This stuff looks like it would come in handy for repairing aluminum tubing on or going to condensers. Unless you know of a better product for that
great demo! I'm sold on it. I'll have to give it a try.
I haven't used the Harbor Freight product yet. But, I have repaired and fabricated a lot of dirt/street motorcycle components with HTS-2000 -- a similar aluminum brazing rod. As long as one gets the clean parts to "wet," the joint should be plenty strong. It does take a bit of practice to get used to the way it flows as mentioned in the video.
Be sure the cleaning of the aluminum is done with a plastic scrounge pad, file, or stainless steel brush/wheel. Embedding regular steel into the aluminum could cause corrosion problems down the road.
I've built mounting brackets, repaired worn out foot peg mounting holes for re-drilling, fixed swing arm chain guard/guide block mounting holes, etc.
Big massive parts like motorcycle swing arms require oxy/acetylene, though, due to the fast heat-conducting properties of large chunks of aluminum.
The stuff is a nice go-to solution for some projects and fixes.
ok , i have watched a few vids on this , but you really showed how to do this properly.i am working on building a recumbent trike and trailer for my daily commute. im thinking this will work perfect to build a light weight trailer!
Hammer Test proves it all. Good work. Great video.
I just did a job similar to yours, but I used propane and the Harbor Freight rods. I have this extension. Its called the Bernzomatic
WH0159 Universal Torch Extension Hose. I use it with Coleman 2000015166 Propane Cylinder Bulk Adapter and hook it up to my 20lb propane tank. On the working end I use the TS 4000. The reason I like the hose is that it has a adjustment valve for the gas flow which the TS4000 doesn't have. I like it because I only use the torch in my shop and don't have to wonder If I running low on propane as often. Got the hose at HD and the adapter is on Amazon. I have Mapp gas but found out the propane just about as well as the Mapp. I like the hose because it's easier to handle the torch and the torch can be inverted. It just happened that I've had the 20lb tank for a long time which was hooked up to a BBQ. The BBq got old and I never used it so I gutted out the burners and use the pit for a welding station. Grate is useful for welding for certain jobs.I also have a brick on the grate to help heating the pieces.
I KNOW nothing on aluminium welding...but this application appears to be possibly very useful for aluminum bikes (I.e. bicycles/cargo bikes mtn. Bikes) . I have a design I wanted to build (personal use cargo bike/electric wheel hub system) it appears it's all in heat control...Thanks for your video!!!! Keep making them!!!
Thanks for the video. I was tempted to buy this stuff but it got a lot of thumbs down on the internet. Looks like if you do it correctly (have sufficient heat like MAP) and clean the joints that it does work. I'll pick my self up some next time I'm there now that I know it does work
Not bad, I've not got em to work that good! Good job!
Thanks for the video very helpful to know it works ! Occasional need to bond aluminum and no tig welder, yet. Great practical alternative.
Great video. You've taken all the nonsense out of this issue and laid it to rest. Now i shall proceed with confidence on repairing my outboard skeg.
Thank you.
great video, excellent test, thank you
Treat your clean up the same as TIG welding. Also using a virgin stainless steel wire brush, OR clean, virgin sand paper/Emery cloth. Keep and eye those clean up parts, files, grinders etc separate from steel work or any other metal.
These rods have been sold for years and were developed for the most part to repair old "pot" metal grills and side mirrors before replating.
Many industry have found them superior to TIG welding in they need less equipment and training to effect repairs on simple aluminum parts and also it works well on cheaper cast parts as well and due to it's zinc content will actually attach to zinc/lead gavanized pipes. Saw a guy shape a temporary repair on an outside water pipe by cleaning pipe but not removing galvanizing then he clamped some aluminum half Moon rings around pipe on each side of hole then filled in between them. Looked odd but by golly it worked till pipes could be replaced properly
Thank you for clearing that up.
thank you I have been looking and you salved the problem and i know
what I'll use
Hello I purchased some Alumirod at a flea market. It works great filling in holes in cans and larger cracks in aluminum but when it came down to a small crack in a 5 horsepower Tecumseh sump cover there was excessive amounts as you indicated. They tell you to wire brush area to keep it dull which I did but i could still see the crack line. I assembled the piece but it still leaked thru. I’m going to dremel out the area more including the cracked area and give it another try. Nice video
Don't make the same mistake a lot of people make. The alloys used to make these aluminum 'brazing' rods differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.
There's no guarantee that what you bought at the flea market was indeed the same you can get from HF, unless of course it was marked with the same name, Alumiweld.
The best I've used thus far, albeit expensive and not immediately available like the Alumiweld, is Muggy Weld. Muggy weld seems to perform better on wet out and is superior in bonding. They also have a low temperature rod, used with a liquid flux, that I use a lot for really small stuff when I can't conveniently use my welder or Alumiweld.
You're the man. Great video!
I have used this stuff and it works great. Map gas works better than propane but I have gotten it to work with just regular propane.
It does put down too much material but I had success pulling some of it back off.
Oxygen/acetylene is best you just have to not get it too hot.
Thanks a lot, you just saved me a lot of money
thanks for sharing ... now Im going to go grab me a few sticks just for back up and keep them on hand...
I used that stuff to successfully repair a Marlin Mod. 60 receiver.
awesome short video dude
Wow, that is awesome! Thank you for the Video! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Right on!!! good video!!
Workin on my pontoon thank u sir for the video
Nice job. Thank you for the video now I can go get some and try it out.
Ive had success cutting a piece that I estimate will cover the area I need and get it and the surface hot till it flows then I lay that length down in the area I want it.
The result is a cleaner looking "weld".
Works well.... if you get the surfaces clean and hot enough.
Totally awesome thanks you
Great information. I have an aluminum tool box that had been broken. I need to cut the end out, straighten it, then try this to "weld" the end piece back in.
"Talk amongst yourselves" that was funny!
MB BAR RANCH
Thanks! Got my thumbs and my CONFIDENCE UP!
Does work very well
got my thumbs up too thanks for the video
Excellent Demo
Love the video
Nice demo. When you bend both pieces at the same time and not break the brazed bond your joint is good. Looks like you used 6063Al. I wonder if it works as good with 6061Al which is actual structural Al. Their weldability is about the same if I remember right.
I’m considering using this to make a new air filter housing for my van.. 🤔
Very good !
How thick was the aluminum. Thanks for the vid
Very nice. Thank you sir
Shit looks good man
It should work really good with a 00 or 000 tip with acetylene . Now I want to try it with my tig for those jobs where you really don't want too much heat build up . Thanks great video .
Comments from my friend at Arnold's Design about alumiweld:
"I have some of those alumiweld rods here. A pack of them lasts quite a while. It's more of a solder, because it doesn't penetrate into the base metal. I'm pretty sure it's a type of high zinc alloy, or pot metal, because you can take a zinc rod, or even a zinc based penny and do the same thing. Alumiweld makes a nice looking joint, and is pretty strong, but I wouldn't really trust it with structural parts. I found it eventually oxidizes between the zinc and the aluminum, and the joint gets weak. I soldered my one drip tray together with it on my first vapor blaster. The second one was giving me fits trying to solder, so I got out my welder and actually welded the sucker together, which was actually easier. I used alumiweld on a prototype wet blasting gun too. The joint looked great, but after a few months of use it fell apart."
I usually use AL822 rods using an A2 tip for turbo torch or oxy acetylene 0 tip if I am doing copper joints also. I usually do evaps though.. I like my rods cuz it has Flux on them already
Gi STRONG m
Fantastic!,,,,,,thankyou
Wonder if you could use this stuff on an exhaust. Would the exhaust heat up so much and cause the alumiweld to melt again?
Only additional info I would look for is:
Slicing through the brazed parts to see penetration.
Repeat the process on 2 flats, like 2 pieces of the angle you used. Braze one side and then flex against the weakest connection. Intentional break to see penetration. Again just destruction test to see how the seam performs.
How far between the pieces does the brazing material penetrate or flow? Does it just puddle and lay on top? Does the melt; wet and flow or wick or act like "sweated" solder?
My bad on choice of words.
I think the hammer answered the question very well! Doesn't mater when the joint is that strong. At least, not to me. Thanks for the video!
I see you prepped the pieces, looks like a layer of silver. Is this due to you polishing or did you apply some layer of flux.
I'm trying to use this to attach an aluminum ladder rack to an aluminum utility trailer. I'm using the gas from home depot un the yellow can but I cant seem to get it hot enough even after 15 minutes. Any suggestions?
Thanks for sharing
Do you think this will work for the frame of a pontoon boat
Call video, the only thing I could say is cut it in half see the world from the inside it looks firm on the impact force, so it's probably good and maybe give her clearinformation on what products you purchase either a picture of the package or part number. All in all great video thanks.
Thanks for posting! I haven't tried soldering aluminum (aluminium) but have gotten the gas and torch. Your demo gives me assurance that it's not only possible, but can make a good joint.
Hey, hopefully the trolls won't quit sniping, otherwise what fun would we have?
Nice Video What kind Rod was that? & you Used mapp gas? Can you buy all of these at harbor freight do you think it would work on 2" buy 1/4 inch flat bar
Dave yakker yes you can and yes it will
Maybe they make a small size rod. Does seem like a huge weld. Good job though.
looks like a hotre torch would help level the melt.
Is there a suitable flux sold somewhere that would help the rod flow better?
Cool!
Thanks for info
You showed me a fact thank you.
That's great
Thanks good to know
I doubt it is as strong as a good weld but it looks like you would destroy the component before breaking the joint so if it's not a critical component this should be good enough. The more tools at your disposal the better off you are. I too have a tig welder and can tig weld aluminum but especially with it being a transformer welder opposed to an inverter type this may be better on really thin aluminum .
Where did you get them at. What kind of gas did you use
Can you use those rods on cast aluminum
Different alloys of aluminum will take soldering or welding differently.
wow lookd like it works
Good video
6:27 Wow, I didn't expect that tubing to bend before it broke. Is it as easy as soldering copper pipe. I assume it's not.
It is if you're patient and use some common sense. It doesn't wet out like solder. It stays more solid than liquid and fluid. If you have a pool of shiny filler then you're at the right temperature. But, it does indeed work and it works very well.
it looks like it acts alot like mercury or gallium.
Good video..
hell yeah it works
Excellent demonstration, thanks! Now, try welding an aluminum tube to angle iron. Do you think a regular propane torch would suffice?
Looks like Alumiweld doesn't wick around like a solder brazed on copper fittings.
Propane works fine
I didn’t know they made a 3 to 4 pound claw hammer lol.
I'm inspired good job. I'll give it a try soon, nice video. Thanks
Use MAPP gas.
Propane isn’t as hot.
MAPP lets you do a great job with plenty of heat.
Wow do I need help! I need to solder an aluminum bar that is very thin, if it helps you understand, I'm soldering one of those Halloween animated figures that use the black aluminum
poles to keep the costume upright. I cracked the pole at a "T" junction. I tried solder but it's just too thin and falls right through (the kind used for electrical soldering) but the
bar in your video will be far too thick to work with. What can I heat up to fill the crack and repair the break once it cools? Thanks so much
Tommy- you cannot "solder" aluminum with "normal" solder, beit electrical or plumbing, it won't bond to aluminum.
Frankly, I can't relate to your Halloween thingy that uses 'black aluminum'?? If it's aluminum then it will have to be cleaned, probably by sanding (to make it metallic colored, not black) and the Alumiweld could work but you would have to use one of the smallest (in diameter) rods they provide.
However, It also takes skill using a torch and a bit of experience if it's delicate.
If you don't have a torch then you likely better try something else like an epoxy and perhaps a cloth wrap for strength. JB Weld is available at most Auto parts stores.
@@kaydee457 Thanks, and you were right, even the smallest rod was far too big, "Steelstik" by JB weld did the job perfectly. It hardens so well you can drill it...and I got E Z fuse tape to reinforce it. Many thanks
What happens if you go from the inside of the tube
I can Tell you this good sir.. get good with that tig ..you can get much stronger and better welds you just need to ball the end of the tungsten and it helps using the proper tungsten for whatever the particular material your welding and thickness too..there are several tungsten types for aluminum. Great video though now I know I can use it and trust it lol
Well, I can tell you this, sir. I AM GOOD with the TIG but you cannot drag the TIG welder and bottles everywhere. Use the right tool for the right job! If you own a boat or a Camper you'd know what I mean....This stuff isn't meant to replace TIG it's meant as a way to get the job done when you can't weld......
Great video, question, do you think this method is safe to use to build am aluminum bicycle frame?
Also where can I find information on the strength and limits of this technique. I like the simplicity of the method. I'd like to know how strong these joints are.
II am actually impressed this product worked as well as his test results prove out. I would have liked to have seen a cross section view of the actual braised section. This would tell us if the braising process actually combined and melted (fused) the 2 pieces together.
Strike the rod across the job a little more quickly and you won’t leave so much solder on the workpiece