DCC Auto-Reversing Devices
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ย. 2020
- Detailed instructions on wiring a Digitrax AR1 auto-reversing device for a reverse loop. In this video, I explain wiring the "escape track" from the business district and setting up a section of track to act as the break in the reverse loop to give a section of track for the AR1 to automatic align the cycle of the AC power on the layout to prevent a short.
Important steps in proper wiring are to make sure the control wiring and the reversing wiring are in the correct contact points on the AR1. Make sure the isolation gaps in the track are cut on both rails in two locations to isolate a section of track plastic rail joiners or other methods should be used to protect against an accidental transfer of current across the gap.
If you/re struggling with wiring a reverse loop on your layout, feel free to leave a comment below.
music provided royalty free from www.bensound.com
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This is one great video. It answered a BUNCH of questions, and clarified that a reverse loop does not have to start or end at a turnout. I have a L-O-N-G run (over 40 feet) between a fiddle yard and a freight station, and this clearly showed that I only need to "isolate" a piece of track longer than my longest train. Thanks!
Great video explaining this whole reversing loop deal .
That was interesting. I had stayed away from that but you gave a good understanding of it.
DCC is intimidating; it's why I stayed away from it forever. Now that I took the plunge, I'm glad I did. I keep tackling items one at a time. First was selecting the DCC system. Then, getting the decoders, learning how to program and speed match, etc. Now, it's ok, how do I make it do weird stuff like reverse loops, wyes, and a turntable because I designed all three into the layout! Switch control is going to be next...
Great explanation. I have really been happy with my digitrax
I use both AR1 and BXPA-1.. The auto reverse relay sound is not a big deal, but BXPA-1is solid state and does not give the relay snap sound. A little more money, but some added features as you mentioned about lights/notifications. Great Video.. Informative and easy.. A BIG LIKE !!
Great explanation of the reversing loop..You can also set it up as a point to point as well.
I contemplated eliminating the "escape track", but I think it would be an operational disaster. The coal branch is a point run. The future port will be a point run. Theoretically, I will be able to run trains from two point locations (mine to power plant, intermodal yard to habor) so trains only enter a scene once during operation. But the loops are nice for guest operation and open houses.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Most certainly and you did a great job. I hope I didn't come off wrong or rude. Definitely was not my intention
@@bhrailroad8339 Not at all! I'm going to be doing some videos once I have the track done in the harbor describing my operational strategies. Comments and suggestions are always welcome!
@@AlleghenyNorthern Can't wait for them
good explanation of a reversing section...your isolated track needs to be as long as your longest train..because if you have a DPU or anything that uses track power & if it's not in the reverse section it will cause a short... i have 3 AR1's on my layout..thx 4 sharing... vinny
Yes! Excellent point. I don't think I stressed that enough. Since my escape track is only handling locals with two locos and no DPUs, I don't have that problem - even if a loco is front and back of the train. However, if the entire mainline traffic was making a reverse, you're 100% correct - the loop would have to be large enough to account for DPUs if they're being used. Thanks!
Thanks I just stared my own layout and like your explanation ill be watching to help me out definatly a like and subscribe
This is encouraging because I have two reverse loops, each is stretched out, not returning to the same entry of the loop.
Just make sure you isolate the loops and all the feeders to the isolated section have to run through the AR1. if you have trouble, you likely have a feeder going past the AR1 which will result in a bypass and immediate short.
Glad I found you, I have a large loop with a pin wheel yard. I was wondering how I was going to wire it. I will do the reverse loop in such a way that my turn outs for the yard aren’t in the reverse loop. Just about 3/4 of the loop will be in it.
That should work. The only issue you'll have is if your loop isn't big enough to cover your longest train with DPUs. If it is or you don't have DPUs, you're golden!
@@AlleghenyNorthern yes it is big enough, about a five foot circle area
@@larryschmitt2513 Cool! Sounds like you're set.
I know you like Digitrax devices so this is just a suggestion. I used to use AR1's but they are old technology, require adjustments, have mechanical relays and are not that reliable. Now I use the "Tam Valley" dual frog juicers which I use to power the frogs on my turnouts; but the outputs can be paired by a jumper and now can be used as a auto reverser. the beauty of this device is that it is works flawlessly, fully electronic, no moving parts, greater reliability, and best of all no adjustments.
i have seen some applications of the Tam Valley frog juicers used and NCE's autoreverser, too. i'm certainly not opposed to any of the options that work. When the AR1s crap out I may look at some of these other systems - or if they become temperamental with other locomotives. there's nothing i hate more than something that works sometimes, but not always! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the clear explanation. I see you're using Bachmann EZ Track. How did you connect your AR1 to the EZ Command power unit?
That's Kato Unitrack, not Bachmann EZ Track. The AR1 is connected to the track through wires soldered to the outside of the rails and run to the appropriate terminals on the AR1. The bus line is used as the AR1's 'common' connection to determine when it needs to correct the pulse.
So you isolate that whole straight section? From switch to switch with rubber or plastic joiners? And you only need one AR10 right?
I’m trying to lay a line on my lower level so I can run a train around the lower level without going up the helix. I should only have to double gap one side, correct?
Mine looks just like your reverse loop (being straight from switch to switching, aside that I have the helix where your industrial town is.
Please let me know if I’m not clear.
On a reverse loop, you always have to double gap both sides of the reversing section. So, whichever section of track you designate as the reversing section, you need two isolated joiners at each end.
(If you're wiring up a wye, they're a little trickier because you'll have two sections that are technically reversing. )
You only need one AR1 per reversing section. You can either make a part of the reversing track isolated like I did in the video or you can isolate the entire loop at the turnout - both the straight and diverging routes get the isolated joiners. If you chose to make the entire section reversing, ALL of the feeders inside the reversing section must run through the AR1.
If you only make a portion of the reversing section isolated, then make sure it's a large enough section to get all of your locomotives per train into it - that includes any DPUs or sound cars that may have a decoder. If you don't, you'll short.
Man, I have always had trouble understanding this. Aside from the simple loop but more than that it’s always been an issue for me. This is amazing and should be in the manual that comes with any auto reverser.
@@Wrathchildss i hope it helped get you up and running. once you give it a shot, let me know how it works out for you! If you venture into turn tables, it's a whole new ball game with the ARs!
Can you run the reverse wires to the turntable bridge, and the control wires to a bus for the feeder tracks. Then that bus to your main bus? I am having trouble with my AR1s in this area on my N scale layout.
So your bridge isn't auto-powered from the track? If not, the bridge could be your reverse section, the rest of the tracks could be on the main bus power and that should fix the problem. Make sure you keep you left rails and your right rails on the right side all around the table or that's going to make a mess. Also, double check you're not feeding the bridge from the tracks. In my case, my AR at the turntable is actually wired for the wye the turntable feeds from (yes, I made a really complicated track arrangement at the terminal section but I wanted a lot of features in a compact area.) My turntable is the Kato unit and because of how it's internally wired, it does not require an AR1.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Mine is a Built up N scale Modern 130' Turntable by Corner Stone. The DC version. However my layout is Digitrax DCC. I have a second turntable on the same make and it is DCC and have no trouble with it. I should sell the none DCC. But if I can make it work? I may keep it. No anyone who wants a None DCC 130 foot Turn Table?
@@Vman7757 Looks like Walthers makes a DCC control unit for the non-DCC model. I'm not sure if that's just to operate the table by DCC or if it has to do with how the table indexes and powers. If your bridge is indexing correctly and you can control the motion alright, I would try using the AR to power the bridge.
@@AlleghenyNorthern I have an AR I'm not using. I have had trouble with it. But still have it.