Digitrax AR1 Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ย. 2019
- Installation of an auto-reversing unit on a wye. The AR1 unit by Digitrax automatic alters the polarity of the rails before the circuit breaker on the command center realizes there's a fault. Easy installation, simple wiring - but remember ALL feeders from the bus line must be run through the AR1 unit or the unit won't work. Also, both legs of the wye must be isolated on both rails and if you're using Kato or any other power -routing turnouts, make sure the power -routing option and powered frog is turned off - you can do this with the screws on the underside of the #4 turnouts.
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Thanks for sharing.Im in the process of building a g scale garden layout.So to keep from having to use a lot of track the AR1s was a simple choice.
Great description of this unit.
Thanks for the video.
Nice! Thanks!
I have one of these also, works great on a loop. Only thing I had trouble with is 2x of my locomotives were just fine going back and forth. Click. All is well. There was one locomotive that went onto the loop and the AR1 started to switch about 50x per second.. Fast... I learned that the pot (timer) had to be adjusted precisely. And it took a little bit to adjust...but finally got it.
yes, i have three of them on the layout and they work flawlessly about 99% of the time. but sometimes, for no reason, they don't trip fast enough or do what yours did and trip A LOT and then a quick adjustment usually fixes the problem. that little adjustment can definitely be finicky.
Hello, thanks for sharing. Do you have the download diagram. Thanks
I have a unique application for my DCC NCE layout; I need to bridge two sections of my layout which are on separate buss assignments (i.e. B1 & B3). I want to run a length of straight track (non-loop stand alone buss (B- 2) between the two sections using an AR-1 (or multiples) so as to switch polarity between B1 & B3.
All track feeds to the "reversing section" are fed from the B-2 buss.
How can I configure the AR1, please?
Do I need to use 2 AR-1s?
Which track buss do I use to supply the input side of the AR-1? Either + or - matter?
THANKS!
ok, little tricky doing this without a visual but let's give this a try. So if the buses left and right are connected in the middle, you should be able to set the middle loop up as your "reversing section" through the AR and shouldn't need to do anything else. BUT, that won't work if you could theoretically run a train from both loops at the same time into middle section. In that case, I would wire the middle section standard and place an AR in each of the two ends. In that case, you shouldn't be able to have two trains enter the block from opposing directions. Remember, they all need to be wired the same to work, so right rail to right terminal and left rail to left terminal in all blocks.
Hi @Allegheny Northern in N Scale - Thanks for posting! Like you I am using a Digitrax Zephyr, and I was wondering how difficult it was to adjust the AR1? The Zephyr is very sensitive and throws quickly during any detected shorts. Thanks! 😀
The AR1 adjust with a small radial dial you can turn with a screw driver - it's very easy to adjust. mind you, the AR1 is not a circuit breaker and should only be used if you have a reversing condition that would be present in a wye, reverse loop, or turn table condition. Otherwise, you need to set up power districts and circuit breakers to isolate shorts on a section of the layout without tripping out the entire layout at the command station.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Thank you for the reply! The reversing loop is all set. I was just looking around for a good Auto Reverser to use within the district. Some of the auto reversers that are out there are difficult to match to the Digitrax DCS52 because of its sensitivity. I have been considering the AR1 and saw how you have been using. 😃
@@jscott8695 There are three of them on the layout and they work very well. I set them up by starting the the AR on the least sensitive setting and then gradually increasing the dial until there's no short. after you set the first one, you'll get a pretty good idea where it needs to be set for others.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Thanks for the advice. Really find your channel to be a great source for help. If I have a question first thing I do is check your videos. Thanks!😃
Where do you put your insulated joints?
Directly after the wye turnout on both legs in both rails. Because the Kato Unitrack turnouts are power-routing, you don't need them anywhere else to isolate.
I got the same situation in HO. Where are your gaps and what section is wired to the AR1? I already have 1 Reverse loop elsewhere and it works fine. This wye thing is a little different. Thanks
ok, so mine setup is a little different than most because I'm using the Kato turnouts which are power-routing. I have two locations at the wye turnout on both legs. The single point of the wye turnout is routed through the AR 1. This also assists with the turntable in the same section of track keeping it isolated from the mainline. Not to complicate things, of course. without a diagram, this is little difficult to explain but a train entering the wye from the mainline continues along the mainline power until it reaches the wye switch, at which point the AR1 triggers the adjustment and the train can continue. If you're not power routing, you'll need three isolation points... 1 at each track that branches off your wye turnout and one in the middle of your mainline between the two switches that make up the other legs of the wye. If you look up the old Atlas wiring diagrams for their Controllers, those break points should be exactly the same with the AR1.
@@AlleghenyNorthern Thank you
Using the bottom turnout to the yard, let's call that south. Going to the right, that turnout will be called east and the top turnout at the yard lead will be called north. So with that in mind, could tell me the positions of the double gaps? I use Peco insulfrog turnouts which I believe are power routing.
Thanks
@@dorstengoopski88 ok, i believe the insulfrogs are power routing. so your train is on the south side of turnout in the yard. From there, it can go east or west. as you roll through the south turnout, east, cut the rails on both sides after the turnout. The same is the case if the loco goes west; cut the rails. ok, now our train is rolling from the south turnout in the eastward direction. pull through that turnout and then set it to back up to reverse through the wye, like you were turning your loco to go from east to west and then through the wye back out in the south direction successfully turning your loco around. you might need to cut both rails in the middle of the track between the east and west turnouts, too. check this link out, go to section 2, DCC - there's a handy little diagram. cut your track on either leg, wire the AR to the common leg, and main power to the rest. www.building-your-model-railroad.com/model-railroad-wiring.html
@@AlleghenyNorthern Wow...very helpful download! Thanks!
So I have two tracks coming into one, then going back to two, would I need a second booster or am I overthinking this? Or do I need both tracks of the double main to be wired into the reverser?
My auto reverser comes today!! Just want to be ahead of the game! I have unitrack!
ok, first i need to make sure we're talking the same terminology. the booster is your digital power source. boosters have an amperage rating. as long as the number of locos you're running doesn't exceed this amperage, your booster is ok. you should have feeders to both tracks from the bus line every couple of feet to ensure good connection. unless your layout is extremely large or you're running multiple sound units, a second booster probably isn't necessary. only the track that's reversing needs a booster. if both mainlines reverse, you should have two reversers. if both mainline reverse into a single main line, then set the single mainline up at the reversing section and you can get away with online one reverser. remember, this only works if you entire train fits on the reversing section. if all your locos are front end, you're good. if you're running DPUs, they need to be on the same section of track as the head end units or the reverse won't work.
Not sure why I wrote booster. I meant to write reverser. No way that could’ve been auto correct!
That’s good to know, I’ve heard about trains being to long with metal wheel but never though about the DPU’s it’s a fairly large section. It goes into the yard and then wraps around the yard back to the main (around 16 foot run) thank you! I’ll be trying it out tonight!
Also: I should say it’s the Kato double track, all in the same bus line.
@@Wrathchildss your entire layout should have a single bus (unless you have multiple boosters, than you would have multiple bus lines). 16' is a pretty long run - you can fit a lot of train in N scale. Metal wheel sets and DPUs will quickly take up that space though. Don't forget to put insulated rail joiners on both rails. also, make sure the unitrack isn't kinked - sometimes if it kinks even in the plastic joiner, the rails touch and the AR won't trip correctly.
Yep, just a single bus! I don’t play on having long trains for a while, it will take quite the time to purchase all of the equipment I need (especially without train shows) and N Scale is pretty Scarce up in Ontario! Thanks for the info!
Is it possible to just reverse one leg of that triangle instead of the entire downstream circuit?
without trying to confuse this, technically you're isolating one leg. the short is going to occur between the two top points of the wye. so the bottom of the wye where those two meet is where you isolate and set it to auto-reverse. the reversing section needs to be as long as the longest train using it, otherwise metal wheel sets will cause a short.
@@AlleghenyNorthern I understand now. Thanks for taking time to help a clueless modeler.
not a problem - any time.