You should turn off the sci-fi music while your talking. It would be much easier to listen and relax while we view your video. Othe than that, good job.
Just done my atv trailer 9\10\17 (5x14) wasn't as lucky as you did all mine alone ...it kicked my Ascot as well ...this is one hell of a job but well worth it after you finally get done...on the last board I figured out how to do it...cut the board about 1/4 in longer than the rear insert and use a Wonder Bar pry bar and hammer to tap in and it will slip into place under the rear insert. I also stained and put a coat of polyurethane on for sure weather protection.....thanks for a great video !!!
That "bow the boards" method works well if you have someone helping. However, if doing it by yourself, the "cut the metal" method is safer, quicker & easier. And, you only need to cut about an 8"-10" notch about center ways in the metal, drop a board in, slide it to one side or the other & finish with the last board going in where the notch is. Of course you'll have to weld or bolt the metal you cut back in place.
I did mine by myself with the bowing the board method. It took about 2x as long but I actually saved time (and money) by not having to bring the trailer somewhere for them to weld it, drop it off, wait to get it back, then go pick it up again. (Don't have a welder obviously)
The first trailer I got when I first started mowing I can still remember when I picked it up, the floor was so bad it was falling apart going down the road I took off what I could so I wouldn't hit another vehicle with a peace of wood going down the road lol, nice video man, I was going to do all 2x12x10 well the second time I went to go get the rest of the wood I paid for 2x12x10 and the guy that was loading the wood gave me 2x10x12 so yea I was mad but once I got home and got everything together it turned out better that way
Bravo! This is the first video that flexes or "bows" the board to pop it under the channel or flat bar that holds the boards in at each end. I was taught the flex/bow method when I was younger and it's a neat trick to aid in doing the job properly, and you usually only need to flex the last few boards anyway. We always work on the sides first, so if a board need be ripped lengthwise, it will be in the center where loading stress is the least. It will also look more symmetrical. Most people say "just cut 1/2" off each board and it'll give wiggle room". If you're working on a shorter trailer, like 8', 10', or 12', you can flex them with a tractor boom or the like using a heavy weight on the end of the board to be wedged under the retainer. This will give a much tighter/better fit, and as soon as the lumber weathers, it will shrink slightly and that 1/2" may save you later on. As too hammering the last few in.......USE A SLEDGE!
One thing they never talk about in these redecking videos is this; when you decide which side of the board goes up, look at the end grain. The curves of the grain should form a hump, not a valley. This way when they weather they cup up and shed water instead of cupping down and pooling water making rot occur quicker.
Getting ready to do my 2000 16' Gravely flatbed and will be using 2x8x16 and will be coating the underside of the planks with an elastomeric rubberized paint oops mix from Homedepot. The top coat will be new engine oil. I need to find a friend to hold the camera while I do the work! lol
I always paint mine too while I have the wood out. I took back piece of angle out and put 3 carriage head bolts though. Makes it a lot easier. And it sucks to cut down last board and then few months later after it shrink you have enough gap for the whole board.
I'm in the process of doing this myself on my 14 x 5 trailer. I noticed that you did not bolt the boards to the trailer, with say Torx bolts. Any reason why? Great vid!
When I refloor, I do very similar to his technique, then add 2 self-tapping torx or square bit screws per board on two of the cross members (total 4 screws per board) below the wood, each are about one-third way from each end of the trailer. It will strengthen the trailer overall.
Do the metal "end caps" not screw off? Seemed liked they would have been screwed down thru the old wood and once the old wood removed the metal piece would be free? Nonetheless, looks good!
Sorry for the question, what size is your trailer and what measure of wood did you use, I'm thinking of changing the wood to my 16ft trailer and I'm interested in your video thanks
If you would have cut the board about 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter, it would have angled in a lot easier with much less pounding. It’s not uncommon to have to rip the last board to get it to fit, but it’s a good idea to put the narrow board in the center. The alternative would have been to let the boards dry in the sun for a couple of months. They would probably have shrunk enough for the last full size board to fit. Bowing the board is a common practice but it’s easier, and the board will bow better, if you put the jack in the middle of the board. It’s a lot quicker to mark and cut all the boards to length at the start rather than having to stop and cut one at a time. You didn’t complete the project, or didn’t show it. How did you attach the boards to the frame cross pieces? Bolts or self tapping screws. Surely you secured the boards! Once the boards have dried out well, instead of a sealer, you can paint them with a 50/50 mix of old motor oil and diesel fuel. It’ll soak in and protect much better than a deck seal. Just reapply every few years. You keep saying “He came by to help you” and “you couldn’t have done it without his help” but he actually did All the work while you just stood there and watched. Most people would have used a tripod to hold the camera. Please disregard the above comment if you are physically impaired.
Your friend's "help" looks more like he's just doing the job himself. Usually you measure the width of the boards plus 1/4" gap between them and trim the two outside boards to fit the width. Just apply Thompson's weather seal every couple of years and it will last a lot longer. And what the hell is that weird music in the background?!
and _exactly_, flex it in the middle. probably would have been faster to flex the outer ones too, but if you have to hammer something difficult like that, a sledgehammer, or even a 3 or 5 lb engineering hammer would persuade it even faster. nice work, though, brothers. good share.
Just did this with my 20' R alone. Took about a six pack to do it. Sketchy how high you have to raise to bend it in. 24" or so. I knocked the block out each time. All the wet boards were bent to some degree. They needed to be clamped in a group and screwed to hold in place with (2.5" #12's self trappers). It's a bitch to say the least. $300 or 94 cents / foot 2"*6"*20'
One thing they never talk about in these redecking videos is this; when you decide which side of the board goes up, look at the end grain. The curves of the grain should form a hump, not a valley. This way when they weather they cup up and shed water instead of cupping down and pooling water making rot occur quicker.
You should turn off the sci-fi music while your talking. It would be much easier to listen and relax while we view your video. Othe than that, good job.
Just done my atv trailer 9\10\17 (5x14) wasn't as lucky as you did all mine alone ...it kicked my Ascot as well ...this is one hell of a job but well worth it after you finally get done...on the last board I figured out how to do it...cut the board about 1/4 in longer than the rear insert and use a
Wonder Bar pry bar and hammer to tap in and it will slip into place under the rear insert. I also stained and put a coat of polyurethane on for sure weather protection.....thanks for a great video !!!
I would have done a few things a bit differently, but this helped the wheels turn in my head. Thanks for the post guys! I enjoyed watching.
Wow I've never seen them done like that, looks great!
Scott's Lawn Mowing thanks for watching sir
How come it's your trailer but he's doing all the work?
For real! I'm going to get my camera out next time I need help on a project & let my friends "put hand to plow" while I film. Great idea.
Maybe he's paying him to do it
That "bow the boards" method works well if you have someone helping. However, if doing it by yourself, the "cut the metal" method is safer, quicker & easier. And, you only need to cut about an 8"-10" notch about center ways in the metal, drop a board in, slide it to one side or the other & finish with the last board going in where the notch is. Of course you'll have to weld or bolt the metal you cut back in place.
I agree, I'll be doing mine by myself too. Great advise.
That will be my technique, 10 min to cut the notch, 5 min to Weld back in.
I did mine by myself with the bowing the board method. It took about 2x as long but I actually saved time (and money) by not having to bring the trailer somewhere for them to weld it, drop it off, wait to get it back, then go pick it up again. (Don't have a welder obviously)
I'm about to do this project and this video helps a lot. Thank you!
Mike Ballinger your very welcome, good luck with it
Cut the boards half an inch shorter for expansion, guy is bending the frame ffs...
The first trailer I got when I first started mowing I can still remember when I picked it up, the floor was so bad it was falling apart going down the road I took off what I could so I wouldn't hit another vehicle with a peace of wood going down the road lol, nice video man, I was going to do all 2x12x10 well the second time I went to go get the rest of the wood I paid for 2x12x10 and the guy that was loading the wood gave me 2x10x12 so yea I was mad but once I got home and got everything together it turned out better that way
Bravo! This is the first video that flexes or "bows" the board to pop it under the channel or flat bar that holds the boards in at each end. I was taught the flex/bow method when I was younger and it's a neat trick to aid in doing the job properly, and you usually only need to flex the last few boards anyway. We always work on the sides first, so if a board need be ripped lengthwise, it will be in the center where loading stress is the least. It will also look more symmetrical. Most people say "just cut 1/2" off each board and it'll give wiggle room". If you're working on a shorter trailer, like 8', 10', or 12', you can flex them with a tractor boom or the like using a heavy weight on the end of the board to be wedged under the retainer. This will give a much tighter/better fit, and as soon as the lumber weathers, it will shrink slightly and that 1/2" may save you later on. As too hammering the last few in.......USE A SLEDGE!
Use a strong ratchet strap looped around the board on one end, and looped around the trailer sides on the other. Ratchet into place.
One thing they never talk about in these redecking videos is this; when you decide which side of the board goes up, look at the end grain. The curves of the grain should form a hump, not a valley. This way when they weather they cup up and shed water instead of cupping down and pooling water making rot occur quicker.
Put the camera down and help the poor guy working alone.
Thanks for sharing this I have the same trailer almost and now I know how to do it and great video
You literally could have cut these boards .5" less in the length and made this 1000 times easier on yourselves. GG
Getting ready to do my 2000 16' Gravely flatbed and will be using 2x8x16 and will be coating the underside of the planks with an elastomeric rubberized paint oops mix from Homedepot. The top coat will be new engine oil. I need to find a friend to hold the camera while I do the work! lol
I always paint mine too while I have the wood out. I took back piece of angle out and put 3 carriage head bolts though. Makes it a lot easier. And it sucks to cut down last board and then few months later after it shrink you have enough gap for the whole board.
I like the sci fi music BTW... Not as bad as other louder Ytube vids with lower narrating. I'll be putting wood for my trailer project. Thanks for vid
Ur welcome and thanks for watching Steve 😉👊🏻
Thanks for the video. Like the trailer also.
I'm in the process of doing this myself on my 14 x 5 trailer. I noticed that you did not bolt the boards to the trailer, with say Torx bolts. Any reason why? Great vid!
When I refloor, I do very similar to his technique, then add 2 self-tapping torx or square bit screws per board on two of the cross members (total 4 screws per board) below the wood, each are about one-third way from each end of the trailer. It will strengthen the trailer overall.
Back when you had them great scags 🤙🏾🤙🏾
SCABS,,,,,these videos should be deleted 😉
Looks great bro!
looks real good!
Grass Daddy thanks man
awesome bud my 16ft is gonna need it
Tony's Lawn care thanks man, and good luck with yours
My OCD would have made put that skinny/narrow board in the middle lolls Great Job though..
1st, u should put a nice stain finish on it
Thank you!
2" White oak . Strong rot resistant. What farmers used . sometimes treated with drain oil.
Do the metal "end caps" not screw off? Seemed liked they would have been screwed down thru the old wood and once the old wood removed the metal piece would be free? Nonetheless, looks good!
Nope, not on these trailers. I have wondered for about 10 years how one replaces the wood. Mine is a carry-all from TSC.
I know it’s a bit late to say but next time you should leave some spacing between the boards to help the drying process when it rains.
Sorry for the question, what size is your trailer and what measure of wood did you use, I'm thinking of changing the wood to my 16ft trailer and I'm interested in your video thanks
did your treated lumber bow and twist at all after you put in the wet treated boards??
If you would have cut the board about 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter, it would have angled in a lot easier with much less pounding.
It’s not uncommon to have to rip the last board to get it to fit, but it’s a good idea to put the narrow board in the center. The alternative would have been to let the boards dry in the sun for a couple of months. They would probably have shrunk enough for the last full size board to fit.
Bowing the board is a common practice but it’s easier, and the board will bow better, if you put the jack in the middle of the board.
It’s a lot quicker to mark and cut all the boards to length at the start rather than having to stop and cut one at a time.
You didn’t complete the project, or didn’t show it.
How did you attach the boards to the frame cross pieces? Bolts or self tapping screws.
Surely you secured the boards!
Once the boards have dried out well, instead of a sealer, you can paint them with a 50/50 mix of old motor oil and diesel fuel. It’ll soak in and protect much better than a deck seal. Just reapply every few years.
You keep saying “He came by to help you” and “you couldn’t have done it without his help” but he actually did All the work while you just stood there and watched. Most people would have used a tripod to hold the camera.
Please disregard the above comment if you are physically impaired.
How much did the lumber cost?
Tanner Linn $25 a piece
What size trailer is that?
Anthony"s lawn care 7 1/2 X 14
Now soak the boards in 7sed motor oil a few times over the summer and you'll never have to do that again.
good job Made it like new
Lucian Childress yessir
I put use motor oil on trailer like 2 times a year
Romero lawn care someone else told me the same thing too 👍🏻
Thanks for watching sir!
It's not illegal to seal and protect wood.
Oops Oops it’s not illegal to spread it on trailer floors
@Oops Oops Yupp Its illegal. Go call the oil police.
Add a little oil on the end. Will slide eadier
That’s what she said too 😉😉🤣👍🏻
How often they need to be changed
What size wood you use?
Rule # 1, you have to be smarter than the tools you use! Rule # 2, Work smarter, not harder!
My trailer that lip bolts off yours does not?
Your friend's "help" looks more like he's just doing the job himself. Usually you measure the width of the boards plus 1/4" gap between them and trim the two outside boards to fit the width. Just apply Thompson's weather seal every couple of years and it will last a lot longer. And what the hell is that weird music in the background?!
The music is from hell!
I used a tractor jack to bow into place.
👍👍👍
and _exactly_, flex it in the middle. probably would have been faster to flex the outer ones too, but if you have to hammer something difficult like that, a sledgehammer, or even a 3 or 5 lb engineering hammer would persuade it even faster. nice work, though, brothers. good share.
those boards will shrink a lot and you will have gaps just like the old ones
Star View Landscaping it's definitely better than what I had LOL 🙂
Back and ready to roll!
ScagPowerEquipment yup, back in action :)
Just did this with my 20' R alone. Took about a six pack to do it. Sketchy how high you have to raise to bend it in. 24" or so. I knocked the block out each time. All the wet boards were bent to some degree. They needed to be clamped in a group and screwed to hold in place with (2.5" #12's self trappers). It's a bitch to say the least. $300 or 94 cents / foot 2"*6"*20'
the small should be the size of a 2x4 and go in the middle
take the back angle plate off
Ugh, a pet peeve: the odd board looks better in the center. Oh well, it'll work all the same.
Wait till the PT dries for a month or so before putting a sealer on, and all will be good.
U should put metal in like on the gate
Sorry but the music sucks for this video. It's like some kind of creepy music.
Should have installed white oak boards… white oak lasts, pine doesn’t..
Bigger hammer guys
YOU'RE GOING TO SNAP THE WELDS.....?
Your helper blind?
helpful video thanks for posting good job ! whats thd music in the background ?
Your neighbor has a radio on with really annoying music ……it would be awesome if they would turn it off !
Where they 2x8 16"
No. 2×6
Ugly music.
You guys are making this way to hard.
Get a bigger hammer
One thing they never talk about in these redecking videos is this; when you decide which side of the board goes up, look at the end grain. The curves of the grain should form a hump, not a valley. This way when they weather they cup up and shed water instead of cupping down and pooling water making rot occur quicker.