Note the tech tip; not as bad on headers but if running aluminum heads or doing an "LS" swap, enlarge the front and rear holes of the headers or cast iron, or "LS" factory cast steel exhaust. Not everyone has a carbide cutter but use a rat tail file. Place it in a drill and slide a 4-6" metal pipe from water, gas or conduit to guide on backside. With welders gloved hand, guide the file and change directions. Aluminum expands 2:1 ratio over steel or cast iron. Place a flat washer on the bolt and tighten to specs. This reason is why torque to yield bolts are used as the metallurgy allows for stretch below the breaking point. Working on imports (And all others) has taught me a lot about head bolts as in service, they have you break one head bolt loose cold, then re-torque every 30k miles, then adjust valve lash if allowed. It works. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, + 4 years of line work prior.
Now made in Mexico, and absolute CRAP. Just unboxed a set and was so angry I about hit the ceiling. Mating surfaces aren't machined, primary tubes overhanging the flanges, welds look like bird droppings. Took them back the next day.
The link to these headers are in the "Description" after the "More" info bold link that TH-cam is now using. Hope this help over a year later, but this is a "CJ Ponies" video as found online. If using an aluminum cylinder head or an "LS" swap, using a drill, rat tail file and a 4" long electrical conduit or water pipe to guide it, enlarge the end hole away from bolt as this will keep them from breaking bolts on aluminum heads as it is a 2:1 expansion rate. This is why GM and many others went torque-to-yield bolts to provide years of clamping force without re-torquing the head bolts. #1 reason for head gasket failure on 4 cylinder imports. Done cold, one by one, then adjust valves if adjustable. 38+ years taught me a lot, plus the reason why! Hope this helps future readers of comments as well. DK, ASE master tech since 78.
Now made in Mexico, and absolute CRAP. Just unboxed a set and was so angry I about hit the ceiling. Mating surfaces aren't machined, primary tubes overhanging the flanges, welds look like bird droppings. Taking them back tomorrow.
@Mike Bresler The company was apparently purchased just prior to his divorce. The husband and wife he sold it to are still making his headers in Corona, Calif. After the divorce he tried to stay in the game by starting Doug's and wound up selling it to Pertronix, a company in San Dimas run by unshaven guys in skinny jeans, t-shirts, and neck beards, but with one older guy for technical phone help. Doug Thorley Headers in Corona makes the headers here in California by the husband, a hot shot welder who developed many of the designs with Doug prior to the sale and divorce.
Note the tech tip; not as bad on headers but if running aluminum heads or doing an "LS" swap, enlarge the front and rear holes of the headers or cast iron, or "LS" factory cast steel exhaust. Not everyone has a carbide cutter but use a rat tail file. Place it in a drill and slide a 4-6" metal pipe from water, gas or conduit to guide on backside. With welders gloved hand, guide the file and change directions. Aluminum expands 2:1 ratio over steel or cast iron. Place a flat washer on the bolt and tighten to specs.
This reason is why torque to yield bolts are used as the metallurgy allows for stretch below the breaking point.
Working on imports (And all others) has taught me a lot about head bolts as in service, they have you break one head bolt loose cold, then re-torque every 30k miles, then adjust valve lash if allowed. It works.
DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, + 4 years of line work prior.
Glad I saw they're not well made before I ordered or even asked if they fit around the clutch shaft on the 4 speed version. Thanks!
Now made in Mexico, and absolute CRAP. Just unboxed a set and was so angry I about hit the ceiling. Mating surfaces aren't machined, primary tubes overhanging the flanges, welds look like bird droppings. Took them back the next day.
Now show me headers that will fit my 72 c10 with a 454
😂😂😂
Could you show the pt # for those? Are they step headers
The link to these headers are in the "Description" after the "More" info bold link that TH-cam is now using.
Hope this help over a year later, but this is a "CJ Ponies" video as found online.
If using an aluminum cylinder head or an "LS" swap, using a drill, rat tail file and a 4" long electrical conduit or water pipe to guide it, enlarge the end hole away from bolt as this will keep them from breaking bolts on aluminum heads as it is a 2:1 expansion rate. This is why GM and many others went torque-to-yield bolts to provide years of clamping force without re-torquing the head bolts. #1 reason for head gasket failure on 4 cylinder imports. Done cold, one by one, then adjust valves if adjustable. 38+ years taught me a lot, plus the reason why!
Hope this helps future readers of comments as well.
DK, ASE master tech since 78.
@@deankay4434 thank you! We still looking for 1.3/4 to 7/8s perfect timing!
@@anthonyking4387 Take a look at "Speed Engineering" for headers. I have a pair and very very nice.
Now made in Mexico, and absolute CRAP. Just unboxed a set and was so angry I about hit the ceiling. Mating surfaces aren't machined, primary tubes overhanging the flanges, welds look like bird droppings. Taking them back tomorrow.
@Mike Bresler
The company was apparently purchased just prior to his divorce. The husband and wife he sold it to are still making his headers in Corona, Calif. After the divorce he tried to stay in the game by starting Doug's and wound up selling it to Pertronix, a company in San Dimas run by unshaven guys in skinny jeans, t-shirts, and neck beards, but with one older guy for technical phone help. Doug Thorley Headers in Corona makes the headers here in California by the husband, a hot shot welder who developed many of the designs with Doug prior to the sale and divorce.
is that a small block 350?
Mexico definitely isn't sending their best and their brightest.
Yep it's a 350
$60 for the old headers..
350 Chevy? Yawn….zzzz