Did this last winter…overall i like it, and the engine bay room is nice…but sometimes i miss the ps. Didnt weld, doesnt feel any different than a welded one ive driven as well.
Great Video, followed to de-power my rack, I have problems with one of the boots sucking in like it’s has vacuum in it when fully extended, can’t work out what I have done wrong? It’s the one opposite end to the pinion ? Any help welcome
I did this on my rack and encountered a real problem getting that passenger side end cap nut off… on mine it was staked, and there was a burr that was destroying the threads. I had to take a dremel and cut the burr off of the main. It seems like it’s a factory thing to prevent it coming loose but so weird to see in some videos (like yours) people just casually twist it off… a few comments and instructions DO show what I encountered, but not all of them
I've heard that from a few people but I haven't seen it myself which is interesting. I'm doing another rack here shortly so I'll have to look for that.
It was hard to even see the dimple - just a tiny little spot where the rack casing was staked a bit. I ended up being fine, I only slightly damaged like the very first thread on the endcap and it reinstalled just fine, but definitely would’ve been bad if I forced it and didn’t backtrack and take a dremel to it. Anyways it’s odd that sometimes people seem to encounter this and other times not. Meant to say that I like your video, super helpful
I guess there's no concern about the wiper seal that's half way down the rack from the gears? I'm thinking of converting that one banjo bolt location to a zerk fitting so I can keep grease in there, but the inlet port is on one side of that wiper seal. Interested in your thoughts on this although it seems to be a non-issue.
@@NappMotorsportsI had a 97 steering rack which is the NB design but na mounts, there’s a extra seal in there that was causing that I think or it just was in better condition then most. Put it in the bench press popped right out
That depends on what you consider daily-able. I pretty much daily my k swap in the summer with no PS and 225 tires, doesn’t really bother me until I’m doing a tight turn in a parking lot.
thinking about doing this in my nb, i want to delete the power steering and a/c from my engine to clean it up. although i do daily drive my car and i would like the car to still be comfortable to drive (i really only drive to work and back) (like 2 miles lol) how is your experience with driving it? im just worried it will be a little tough to steer. although when you cut out the fluid seal it hypothetically should make turning easier opposed to just looping lines. obviously it wont feel like having ps still but im just really uninterested in arm workout everyday.
I just looped my lines and you’ll only have an issue at a dead stop. Even then it’s not that bad. When in motion you can’t even notice power steering is gone
Did this last winter…overall i like it, and the engine bay room is nice…but sometimes i miss the ps. Didnt weld, doesnt feel any different than a welded one ive driven as well.
Great, that’s what I figured. Good to confirm it.
Thanks! Very informative planning on depowering my NA Rack soon.
The process is quite similar between the racks so this should get you through it.
I just disassembled and cut my NA rack last weekend! Good timing
Nice! Welcome to the no PS life haha.
@@NappMotorsports I'm looking forward to one less component to check leaks for.
cool video!
Thanks!
Great Video, followed to de-power my rack, I have problems with one of the boots sucking in like it’s has vacuum in it when fully extended, can’t work out what I have done wrong? It’s the one opposite end to the pinion ? Any help welcome
Interesting. I haven’t seen that happen.
Curious to see if you have any more feedback on whether you would or have welded the pinion following this?
Nope, it’s still doing great. No regrets for not welding it.
I did this on my rack and encountered a real problem getting that passenger side end cap nut off… on mine it was staked, and there was a burr that was destroying the threads. I had to take a dremel and cut the burr off of the main. It seems like it’s a factory thing to prevent it coming loose but so weird to see in some videos (like yours) people just casually twist it off… a few comments and instructions DO show what I encountered, but not all of them
I've heard that from a few people but I haven't seen it myself which is interesting. I'm doing another rack here shortly so I'll have to look for that.
It was hard to even see the dimple - just a tiny little spot where the rack casing was staked a bit. I ended up being fine, I only slightly damaged like the very first thread on the endcap and it reinstalled just fine, but definitely would’ve been bad if I forced it and didn’t backtrack and take a dremel to it. Anyways it’s odd that sometimes people seem to encounter this and other times not. Meant to say that I like your video, super helpful
Thanks for the detailed process... Looking to de-power and de-A/C my NA.
It's a very similar process to the NB rack!
Really excited for this build. Planning on coming to some Gridlife events?
We’d love to, depends on timeline. Right now the realistic gridlife schedule is 2023.
I guess there's no concern about the wiper seal that's half way down the rack from the gears? I'm thinking of converting that one banjo bolt location to a zerk fitting so I can keep grease in there, but the inlet port is on one side of that wiper seal. Interested in your thoughts on this although it seems to be a non-issue.
You cut the seal out if we’re talking about the same one. Cut a groove into it on both sides and you can snap it out.
@@NappMotorsports I'm talking about the one inside the tube, not on the rack.
Thinking about doing this in my NB, I'll keep PS for now though
PS is nice for a street car, I totally agree and wish my K swap had it.
ive been running a unwelded depowered track zero issues, i wouldnt even bother welding it
Same here in our 2 other cars.
Any idea did the same thing you did and the shaft won’t come out almost like it’s building pressure
Not sure
@@NappMotorsportsI had a 97 steering rack which is the NB design but na mounts, there’s a extra seal in there that was causing that I think or it just was in better condition then most. Put it in the bench press popped right out
Where did you get the bushings? Thank You So Very Much for a Very Helpful video!!!
Part number 12701 from energy suspension. They were only like $20 shipped!
Does this make it not daily-able ? Is it too rough.
That depends on what you consider daily-able. I pretty much daily my k swap in the summer with no PS and 225 tires, doesn’t really bother me until I’m doing a tight turn in a parking lot.
thinking about doing this in my nb, i want to delete the power steering and a/c from my engine to clean it up. although i do daily drive my car and i would like the car to still be comfortable to drive (i really only drive to work and back) (like 2 miles lol) how is your experience with driving it? im just worried it will be a little tough to steer. although when you cut out the fluid seal it hypothetically should make turning easier opposed to just looping lines. obviously it wont feel like having ps still but im just really uninterested in arm workout everyday.
It’s harder to steer at a stop, but when you’re moving it’s no big deal
I just looped my lines and you’ll only have an issue at a dead stop. Even then it’s not that bad. When in motion you can’t even notice power steering is gone
Ever thought about adding electric steering to the depower?
If I had kept the k swap, I would’ve added E Power for sure.
Anybody knows, if it is possible to do this with an NC rack?
I haven’t heard of anyone doing this.
@@NappMotorsports I have found a video where they did it, so It looks like it is doable. th-cam.com/video/OTYneilgKOg/w-d-xo.html
It is possible, welding the pinion is not necessary. We had to make 2 tools to full dismantle the rack.