Getting inspiration to crack into the 1.8 I pick up last weekend, think im gonna get mine a little more "built" rods and pistons if everything goes well
Just a heads up you're going to want to drill a couple holes in the thermostat or something, I saw that front water neck is deleted and all the small ports for the oil warmer/cooler, heatercore and throttle body coolant are all deleted, so when the thermostat is closed coolant has no way to circulate at all, the pump will cavitate a ton during warmup because of this and will cause pitting on the impeller and eventual failure. Drilling a couple holes in the thermostat at least gives you a little flow but warm up times will be extended and it has the possibility to run too cool in cold weather at which point you'd need to block off some of the radiator. I usually suggest just looping the heater core lines but deleting the heatercore itself so coolant can circulate in the block when the thermostat is closed.
@@NappMotorsports oof. Might be easier to just find another water inlet housing with the hard pipe and replace plug on rear spacer with barb to run the heater circuit as a proper bypass instead of trying to remove rear housing. With mine like that and still naturally aspirated it never got over 205 degrees even here in AZ with a 192F thermostat in the reroute housing, so no negative impact to overall cooling capacity that I could tell but it was able to warm up quick and regulate temp in colder weather on its own. If the water has nowhere to go when the thermostat is closed you also risk pushing freeze plugs out too if you rev it when cold.
Just an idea, when you're talking about the other videos you have on stuff (Wrinkle black in this scenario) you should insert links in the video or in the description. Just to help you get viewers to click on em too!
I bet I know what's missing from Dylan's car ;) Flyin' Miata is also Black Fridayi-ng... I have an Excel spreadsheet of what I need. Question: How did you block off the water pump heater tube outlet? Plug or weld?
I have a feeling you might know exactly what’s missing! Haha. We popped the little fitting out of the outlet, then welded it shut/ground it down. You could easily pop that out and thread it with an NPT Tap and block it off.
I’m looking at the hoop on the track car, from the angles it looks really low, below the top of the window? Will it pass the broom stick test? Maybe all short drivers.
Although Napp said they are not using that bar, all Miatae do generally have this problem passing tech with readily available roll bars. There are "tall guy" mods for using stock seats in "street" classes, but the best thing for taller drivers is proper bucket seats mounted on the floor. I'm moving up out of the "street" classes that require stock seats and I am right at 6' (183cm) tall. I cannot pass the broomstick test with a stock seat and my Hard Dog M2-HCHT bar. I don't want to molest my stock seat padding, so I'm working on this problem right now for the next season. I have an Ultra Shield bucket seat and a set of floor mounts that don't require any cutting and put the seat as low as possible. I was just test-fitting this past weekend, and I'm waiting on a set of Kirkey side mount brackets and a custom seat back brace to deliver at the moment, which will complete the setup. I will definitely pass the broom stick test once I get the full install completed, and I'll be able to set aside my stock seat for the next owner (if there ever is one, which I doubt 😎).
I’m hoping to get some right seat time in the track car next year but my helmet sticks above the front window frame with the stock seats. Fingers crossed that I can fit in the end result.
The 949Racing guys have run reroutes on VVT engines/head gaskets for 24 hour endurance races with no issues. The reroute definitely helps the non-VVT engines more, but doesn’t hurt the VVT engines in any way.
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
Loving the quality content guys, keep it up!
Thanks for watching and the encouragement!
@@NappMotorsports Interested to see your catch can setup soon.
Great video. My cobalt reroute from moss just showed up today. Getting ready to do my own refresh on Cam's former engine!
Can’t wait to see that thing all freshened up and in the car!
1.6 kings rise up
great video gents
You 1.6 guys are a different breed 😂😂
Getting inspiration to crack into the 1.8 I pick up last weekend, think im gonna get mine a little more "built" rods and pistons if everything goes well
Good idea! Pistons and rods are great peace of mind.
Congrats on the sponsors..you guys do good work, glad theyre recognizing it and not just supporting the 1mil subbed channels
Thanks Eli! We really appreciate it.
Looking good guys.
Black Friday is going to be some electronics kit from some chaps from australia for me 😬
Yessss 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Just a heads up you're going to want to drill a couple holes in the thermostat or something, I saw that front water neck is deleted and all the small ports for the oil warmer/cooler, heatercore and throttle body coolant are all deleted, so when the thermostat is closed coolant has no way to circulate at all, the pump will cavitate a ton during warmup because of this and will cause pitting on the impeller and eventual failure. Drilling a couple holes in the thermostat at least gives you a little flow but warm up times will be extended and it has the possibility to run too cool in cold weather at which point you'd need to block off some of the radiator. I usually suggest just looping the heater core lines but deleting the heatercore itself so coolant can circulate in the block when the thermostat is closed.
I did think about this… Might be kicking myself since we put the engine in today.
@@NappMotorsports oof. Might be easier to just find another water inlet housing with the hard pipe and replace plug on rear spacer with barb to run the heater circuit as a proper bypass instead of trying to remove rear housing. With mine like that and still naturally aspirated it never got over 205 degrees even here in AZ with a 192F thermostat in the reroute housing, so no negative impact to overall cooling capacity that I could tell but it was able to warm up quick and regulate temp in colder weather on its own. If the water has nowhere to go when the thermostat is closed you also risk pushing freeze plugs out too if you rev it when cold.
Exposed cam gears! Yes!
You guys won the battle
Another Great Video! i need to get my VVT into my NA, thanks for putting these out and pressuring me xD!!!
Glad this is motivating someone! Get to it.
Good job on sourcing low mileage VVT. I am curious how your valve cover AN breathers are going to incorporate PCV.
They won’t. They go to an atmospherically center catch can, so a PCV valve isn’t necessary. We’ve run this setup on multiple cars with no issues now.
Hello, good video! What coils are those on the engine that's being refreshed?
Audi R8 Coils. FlowForce makes a kit.
Just an idea, when you're talking about the other videos you have on stuff (Wrinkle black in this scenario) you should insert links in the video or in the description. Just to help you get viewers to click on em too!
We usually try to, I must’ve missed that one.
@@NappMotorsports Ah 😋 enjoying the MX5 content! 😁
I bet I know what's missing from Dylan's car ;) Flyin' Miata is also Black Fridayi-ng... I have an Excel spreadsheet of what I need. Question: How did you block off the water pump heater tube outlet? Plug or weld?
I have a feeling you might know exactly what’s missing! Haha.
We popped the little fitting out of the outlet, then welded it shut/ground it down. You could easily pop that out and thread it with an NPT Tap and block it off.
I’m looking at the hoop on the track car, from the angles it looks really low, below the top of the window? Will it pass the broom stick test? Maybe all short drivers.
That’s just resting in there. We’re not going to use the kit we bought so it’s going to be passed on to someone else.
Although Napp said they are not using that bar, all Miatae do generally have this problem passing tech with readily available roll bars. There are "tall guy" mods for using stock seats in "street" classes, but the best thing for taller drivers is proper bucket seats mounted on the floor. I'm moving up out of the "street" classes that require stock seats and I am right at 6' (183cm) tall. I cannot pass the broomstick test with a stock seat and my Hard Dog M2-HCHT bar. I don't want to molest my stock seat padding, so I'm working on this problem right now for the next season. I have an Ultra Shield bucket seat and a set of floor mounts that don't require any cutting and put the seat as low as possible. I was just test-fitting this past weekend, and I'm waiting on a set of Kirkey side mount brackets and a custom seat back brace to deliver at the moment, which will complete the setup. I will definitely pass the broom stick test once I get the full install completed, and I'll be able to set aside my stock seat for the next owner (if there ever is one, which I doubt 😎).
I’m hoping to get some right seat time in the track car next year but my helmet sticks above the front window frame with the stock seats. Fingers crossed that I can fit in the end result.
What bolts are you using to mount the engine to the stand?
I don’t know the exact specs, just some king hardware store bolts and nuts.
Arent you supposed to run a 99-00 head gasket alongside a reroute on BP6s?
The 949Racing guys have run reroutes on VVT engines/head gaskets for 24 hour endurance races with no issues. The reroute definitely helps the non-VVT engines more, but doesn’t hurt the VVT engines in any way.
Is this setup below 5k ? I want to justify leaving the vvt but the k is too tempting
The VVT swap can be done for under 5k. The K swap will easily be double that.