Had a problem with my engine on my cement mixer revving on and on. Stripped it down to find the butterfly valve retaining screw had come adrift and was sat in the inlet port. Phew ! An easy fix after all. 👍
Thanks for Watching .....I have worked on Briggs engines since I was a kid ..In the early 70's my brothers and me worked on our mini bikes and go -karts and rebuild engines ..It was a great era to be a teenager
Nice clean up bud ! Got a good tip from an other tuber for cleaning carbs and the small jet holes; Snip one of the wiggly wires off a wirebrush. Shove that in the tiny holes. (With a pair off plairs). The curves in the wire will rub the gunk of the sides of the hole and make it shiny again without doing any damage to it...
What did this come off of? I picked up a McLane edger and it has a 3.5 Briggs. I took apart the Carb to clean and the tank was nasty with old gas. Having trouble starting which LED me to believe it's clogged. Problem is I can't get the body to detach from the tank. I did notice what you are calling the cup, makes sense now lol. How the hell is it supposed to detach? am I supposed to pry it loose. The 3 screws came out with no problems
There are 4 screws. One is under the linkage connector on top of the carb. I almost destroyed my tank trying to pry the carb off the tank. Once I removed the screw it came off easily. Also I wish you would show the actual cleaning. I’d like to see you actually clean the jet and other places.
Just use Diesel people. It costs less than $3.00 a GALLON. Will last for years cleaning small parts. Carb and brake cleaner will EAT those plastic parts people. Use a bread tie with the plastic stripped off. Leaves you a nice fine wire. Don't use welding rod tip cleaners. Those are like mini files that remove soft aluminum and brass like mad. Talking about cleaning jets here. Use an old paint tray and a throw away brush to clean the carb like new.
Bruce Pender It is neat how theese carbs work compared to the old days when they had a float bowl and gravity fed gas tank !!! they are a fun project to also work on
I accidently found you on the Bill Goudy channel and saw you are from Iowa too so I thought I would come over and sub to show support for a fellow Iowan. :-) Plus I do find your channel interesting. :-)
When you removed the top screws from the carburetor separating the tank from it...did u need to pry them apart from each other? I was waiting with baited breath between videos hoping to see u separating the carb from the tank, much to my dismay you had already done it off video. My question is do the two units separate easy or do you have to semi-forcibly pry them apart? Please advise thank you
First off...thank you 4 making videos to show people how to do things the right way. I want to also thank you for replying so fast. I have a similar carb and tank to the one ur demonstrating. My problem was I am having a hard time separating these two units from each other.It seems it milled need a prying to free them, have you heard of this being needed in some of your experiences??? I don't want to warp it and or ruin kit if there is a fastener inside I am not aware of. Thanks again!
Use a thin putty knife and pry carefully around it ..Someone may have used gasket sealer I had to seal one on a 5 h.p I also have a video on the 5 h.p briggs
Thanks for a great tutorial. The only part missing from this B&S 3.5 series that I would like to see is how to separate the tank from the carburetor as that's where I'm having difficulty at the moment. I've taken off all of the screws and yet it seems like something is holding the two parts together from the inside that I can't find. Otherwise a very nice presentation.
If it looks like my engine it should come apart after removing the screws ..same as a lawn mower engine ...You may have to Carefully pry it apart with a thin putty knife if the gasket is holding it
@@perrydear The complete holding of this full carb has one nut underneath the tank and this one nut is whats holding your tank onto the engine, unscrew this one nut (you'll find two nuts, it's the one nearest to the pull start that you want off) do this and the tank will come off and you'll be able to work much better at removing the complete carb that is mounted on the top off the engine, much more space to work at getting the two parts seperated ie tank for cleaning out and removing carb from tank, "try it it is only one nut.
Had a problem with my engine on my cement mixer revving on and on. Stripped it down to find the butterfly valve retaining screw had come adrift and was sat in the inlet port. Phew ! An easy fix after all. 👍
This guy's awesome. Love it. Could sit around a campfire with a beer and tell stories all night. Great sense of humor.
Thanks for Watching .....I have worked on Briggs engines since I was a kid ..In the early 70's my brothers and me worked on our mini bikes and go -karts and rebuild engines ..It was a great era to be a teenager
Nice clean up bud !
Got a good tip from an other tuber for cleaning carbs and the small jet holes;
Snip one of the wiggly wires off a wirebrush. Shove that in the tiny holes. (With a pair off plairs). The curves in the wire will rub the gunk of the sides of the hole and make it shiny again without doing any damage to it...
The Rebel 22 Thanks for the tip ..Those twist ties off of bread wrappers also are good
What did this come off of? I picked up a McLane edger and it has a 3.5 Briggs. I took apart the Carb to clean and the tank was nasty with old gas. Having trouble starting which LED me to believe it's clogged. Problem is I can't get the body to detach from the tank. I did notice what you are calling the cup, makes sense now lol. How the hell is it supposed to detach? am I supposed to pry it loose. The 3 screws came out with no problems
There are 4 screws. One is under the linkage connector on top of the carb. I almost destroyed my tank trying to pry the carb off the tank. Once I removed the screw it came off easily. Also I wish you would show the actual cleaning. I’d like to see you actually clean the jet and other places.
Just use Diesel people. It costs less than $3.00 a GALLON. Will last for years cleaning small parts. Carb and brake cleaner will EAT those plastic parts people. Use a bread tie with the plastic stripped off. Leaves you a nice fine wire. Don't use welding rod tip cleaners. Those are like mini files that remove soft aluminum and brass like mad. Talking about cleaning jets here. Use an old paint tray and a throw away brush to clean the carb like new.
Acetone is one of the chemicals in your carb cleaner that cleans old fuel deposits and varnish.
Fuel injection with atmosphere pressure driving the fuel (Pulse jet). Fun Stuff
Bruce Pender It is neat how theese carbs work compared to the old days when they had a float bowl and gravity fed gas tank !!! they are a fun project to also work on
I accidently found you on the Bill Goudy channel and saw you are from Iowa too so I thought I would come over and sub to show support for a fellow Iowan. :-) Plus I do find your channel interesting. :-)
Madison C Iowa Thanks for subscribing Glad you find it interesting I have several playlists like how to do videos and projects I have built
Great!
When you removed the top screws from the carburetor separating the tank from it...did u need to pry them apart from each other? I was waiting with baited breath between videos hoping to see u separating the carb from the tank, much to my dismay you had already done it off video. My question is do the two units separate easy or do you have to semi-forcibly pry them apart? Please advise thank you
It came apart easy
First off...thank you 4 making videos to show people how to do things the right way. I want to also thank you for replying so fast. I have a similar carb and tank to the one ur demonstrating. My problem was I am having a hard time separating these two units from each other.It seems it milled need a prying to free them, have you heard of this being needed in some of your experiences??? I don't want to warp it and or ruin kit if there is a fastener inside I am not aware of. Thanks again!
Use a thin putty knife and pry carefully around it ..Someone may have used gasket sealer I had to seal one on a 5 h.p I also have a video on the 5 h.p briggs
5 h.p. briggs th-cam.com/play/PL2eL9173a4VAUDAIvRnciegwRp4aFScX5.html
I will do that, thank you so much. Much appreciate you and guys like you,on TH-cam willing to help another out.
Sir your video was perfect! My problem is new diaphragm gasket starting to leak.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for a great tutorial. The only part missing from this B&S 3.5 series that I would like to see is how to separate the tank from the carburetor as that's where I'm having difficulty at the moment. I've taken off all of the screws and yet it seems like something is holding the two parts together from the inside that I can't find.
Otherwise a very nice presentation.
If it looks like my engine it should come apart after removing the screws ..same as a lawn mower engine ...You may have to Carefully pry it apart with a thin putty knife if the gasket is holding it
Did you take out 5 screws? Theres one in the middle that can be missed...l know...
@@perrydear The complete holding of this full carb has one nut underneath the tank and this one nut is whats holding your tank onto the engine, unscrew this one nut (you'll find two nuts, it's the one nearest to the pull start that you want off) do this and the tank will come off and you'll be able to work much better at removing the complete carb that is mounted on the top off the engine, much more space to work at getting the two parts seperated ie tank for cleaning out and removing carb from tank, "try it it is only one nut.
I just ordered a new one, an hour ago. The wind blew mine away. Could probably get by without it, but what the heck.
Another thing. Why would they have that extend down only a short way, and have a screen on it. Maybe thats the pilot jet.
The long tube pumps the gas up to the little well/cup and the engine pulls the fuel through the short one that has a jet in it
And one more. At (:50 ), mine has a brass jet pressed in, with about a .035,, .040, jet. Maybe just my particular carb. 5hp.
Your missing the round screen, that goes over the shorter of the two down tubes, and sits in the cup well of the tank.
I never knew that there was a screen on there ..I will look for a diagram of the carb and a part number sometime
yea the reason i know is, i just disassembled mine, and i saw yours was missing. i`v seen a few missing on ut, so i thought i`d put the word out.
I wanted to see you remove it from the Tank. I tried to remove mine. Removed all the screws and it moves freely but does not come off. Any ideas?
Might be a little late. Mine has a 4th screw on the top of the carb going through to the tank.
that screen may have been an engineering add on, after production.
It would be a good idea to have a screen on it
la traduction en français est exécrable !!!