Lathe Crash And Repair! 🤦♀️
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m repairing the lathe that I broke! 🤦♀️ Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
Buy Blondihacks stuff in my store! www.blondihacks.com/store
Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:
(I earn small commissions on these links)
• “Kant Twist” style clamps : d-gray-drafting-and-design.my...
• Shrum Solutions face mill: www.shrumsolutions.com/shop?p...
• Pig Mat : amzn.to/3GNYwSM
• Mill clamping set : amzn.to/2xc9vqr
• Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/2IJsAUs
• Zero Flute Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/3bmPLPe
• NOGA Deburring set : amzn.to/2Jv3RlW
• NOGA Reversible Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
• Knurling Tool : amzn.to/2FblXb1
• Tapered Reamer : amzn.to/2Gn0b3G
• Chucking Reamer set : amzn.to/3odnVvh
• Nicholson files : amzn.to/2VcHkls
• Nicholson needle files : amzn.to/2BDt7ph
• 1-2-3 Blocks : amzn.to/2EvAsGq
• Dormer center drills : amzn.to/2X7U6ij
• 6” Divider : amzn.to/2GTncM3
• NOGA arm with magnetic base : amzn.to/2U2bGTI
• NOGA arm Big Boy : amzn.to/381acji
• Collet Block set : amzn.to/2UkF1vZ
• DeWalt drill and driver kit : amzn.to/2Gp6IeJ
• DeWalt portable band saw : amzn.to/2U4Mhsw
• DeWalt band saw blades : amzn.to/2H2J4X0
• High Speed Steel parting blade : amzn.to/2YcdYBv
• High Speed Steel blade holder : amzn.to/2JgO0IK
• High Speed Steel tool blanks : amzn.to/2H1qoqr
• Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : amzn.to/2H4yr5z
• AXA tool holders : amzn.to/2V1gOHl
• Quick Change Toolpost : amzn.to/310mshq
• Norton oil stone kit : amzn.to/2EbLEH3
• Norton small sharpening stone: amzn.to/2PQwex9
• End mills : amzn.to/2U76Vsf
• Milling machine starter pack : amzn.to/2tA2M4e
• Forceps : amzn.to/2Ww5dFT
• Mill Parallels : amzn.to/2lfW82i
• GearWrench ratcheting tap & die set : amzn.to/2lMwZfV
• Step bits : amzn.to/2q54yfJ
• Starrett automatic center punch : amzn.to/2DCI7C9
• Budget transfer punch set : amzn.to/2yfDgHi
• Precision shim stock : amzn.to/34lJlME
• Jet 2-ton press : amzn.to/2SLas1s
• Gear Wrench locking puller : amzn.to/2ubBV1W
• Starrett tap wrenches : amzn.to/35jxM9e
• Goldenrod oiler : amzn.to/2TTS0En
• Acid brushes : amzn.to/36qWCo5
• Cratex (Bright Boy) block : amzn.to/38fNm72
• Scotchbrite deburring wheel : amzn.to/3ks0P2V
• Fein Turbo I shop vac : amzn.to/2vXpech
• Machinist’s scale : amzn.to/2Zk6oVj
• Mixed metric/imperial dial caliper : amzn.to/2KKARYY
• Mitutoyo dial caliper : amzn.to/2IMIxJE
• Mitutoyo micrometer set : amzn.to/2GtICPx
• Mitutoyo depth micrometer : amzn.to/33M8aSH
• Mitutoyo edge finder : amzn.to/2G36omq
• Mitutoyo dial indicator : amzn.to/2H09gBr
• Mitutoyo dial test indicator : amzn.to/2E5lRQw
• Coaxial indicator : amzn.to/3bbBEwE
• Mitutoyo telescoping gauge set : amzn.to/2Z6houn
• Fowler dial bore gauge : amzn.to/2KQJNf2
• Fowler inside micrometer : amzn.to/2TVm7Jo
• Starrett 98-6 Level : amzn.to/38K7lMD
• Grizzly Height Gage : amzn.to/2PDTr7i
• Thread Checker : amzn.to/2CpvAUU
• The Amateur’s Lathe book : amzn.to/3jIYlwe
• Anchor Lube : amzn.to/2H9X6oQ
• Boeshield T-9 : amzn.to/2TCE0wB
• Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : amzn.to/2YhZTmR
• JAX Metal Blackener : amzn.to/2MVe8wj
• Dykem layout fluid : amzn.to/2U7KQts
• Dykem dauber : amzn.to/2uoXtbm
• Tap Magic cutting oil : amzn.to/37uYzRS
• WD-40 : amzn.to/2GYV8rY
• Super 77 Spray Glue : amzn.to/2YScxZl
• Loctite 603 : amzn.to/2EYsPbi
• Loctite 242 : amzn.to/2RIt3sQ
• Way oil : amzn.to/38Gl9qW
• High pressure grease : amzn.to/2GloHTd
• CMD Extreme Pressure lube : amzn.to/36JPNy9
• Dry graphite lube : amzn.to/2U0YEZH
• 3-in-1 oil : amzn.to/36in43e
• Kroil : amzn.to/2uCf1RL
• Evaporust : amzn.to/36NSkII
• Brasso : amzn.to/3buE6yL
Commenting policy : blondihacks.com/commenting-po...
Want more content like this? Try these places:
Blondihacks on Instagram : / blondihacks
Blondihacks on Twitter : / quinndunki
Blondihacks on Patreon : / quinndunki
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Victory Fanfare by humanoide9000. Used under CC3 license: freesound.org/people/humanoid...
Cat Screech by InspectorJ. Used under CCA license : freesound.org/people/Inspecto... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Hey everyone- since a lot of people seem to be losing sleep over it, no the pinion is not hardened or some fancy alloy that is going to be hurt by heating it. My Chinese lathe is honoured that you all think so highly of its components, but you can count on one hand the parts in these machines that are hardened or any alloy that would mind a little heat. So let’s not bother typing that any more. Now you can get some rest, finally!
Also a lot of people saying the shear pin on the leadscrew didn’t do its job. Well, that isn’t that shear pin’s job. That shear pin is to save the leadscrew if you crash with the half nut engaged. It has a 4:1 (plus the rack) mechanical advantage over the pinion and there’s six gears and shafts between the two. That pin ain’t gonna shear from the power feed. This lathe SHOULD have a shear pin on that pinion. That would be nice. But it isn’t that existing shear pin’s fault. If it would was weak enough to shear from that pinion at the other end of a 4:1 gearbox, you couldn’t cut threads with it. It would shear from the force of the half nut pushing hard through a 13 tpi thread. So feel free to complain that there should be a SECOND shear pin here, but don’t blame that one. It’s doing its job by not shearing here. 😉
.....and if it was hardened, it wouldn't have bent in the first place!! Another interesting and informative video Quinn, Thanks!
LoL 😆
I also bought a Chinese 6125 lathe, the DC motor will becoming weaker some years later and you have to replace a better AC motor. Maybe I will buy a big second industry lathe.
@@mwakelin if it was hardened it may have stripped teeth of gears .
Hey heads up, the shoulder of the pinion took a slight deformation where you applied the percussive maintenance with your precision impact device. Looks like it may create a wear spot on the cast iron case and pull the pinion out ever so slightly which could affect alignment. It may end up wearing itself some clearance, but just in case you didn't notice it.
It can be seen clearly at 13:02 in the video. My 14 year old pointed it out to me. I love to sit down with my 10 and 14 (soon to be 15) year old girls and watch your videos, it inspires the hell out of them. I mean, I tell them all the time they can do this kind of stuff, but Dad is just Dad, I am supposed to say that, and they help me often in the garage/shop. But seeing you doing this work, your openness and honesty in your approach really speaks to them, thanks for putting out this content, it is much appreciated.
As soon as you found the issue, I thought, "ok, just make a replacement with the lathe", and then I learned how people end up with multiple lathes. 😁
I only have 7 😆
I pulled my first commercial lathe out of a green bin, my kids in grade school. That's been almost forty years, and five or six lathes later. I just sold my "extra bridgeport" a couple months ago, my daughter put it on facebook, you meet the nicest people, selling old machine tools, and buying them. It's always nice when one can tear it apart, and make it better than it was before.
This is one of your best voice-overs ever with your "adult language" intermission and your imperial fist shakes. Excellent!
Next project: fabricating a slide hammer. Its a hammer for pulling, works great for dowel pins like this. Its actually nice of them to use this type.
I think her method worked well.
Pulled carburetor jets the same way. Taped non metering area with a 4-40 tap.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nothing wrong with this method. I just wanted to suggest a nice easy lathe project. Not sure how well known they are as far as tools go, with a few different attachments (various thread sizes for example) they can be really useful.
Sometimes its really helpful to be able to tappy-tap-tap instead of gradually build up the force.
If you use them to remove dowel pins you do that first, before undoing the bolts.
Probably not worth buying for most people, but simple to make out of some random bits of steel.
@@dans_Learning_Curve both work, but I see the point, some people like having the right tool, ya know?
ah yes the slide hammer its got me in trouble many times being my goto. lol
I was thinking slide hammer too, but what she did was brilliant. One of those why didn't I think of it moments.
Nice rescue! Brave. Your balls of steel put my bronze bush to shame.
Awkward tension pins/roll pins.
Take a piece of wire (I use stainless tig welding wire)
Put it through the hole that the pin is to go through.
Slide the pin down the wire to begin seating in the hole.
Use a punch to start the pin.
Remove wire and complete reseating of the pin.
Good tip!
Ill second on good tip! I deal with those pins fairly often and will make good use of that suggestion.
@@Blondihacks I have used a magnet have several few look like a old tv antenna they extend out have sever different sizes tips ..could also have got down in the oil bath I think not sure how tight the room you had ,, great video ,, did you get the spare part ordered yet ??? I have a mini mill/drill press I need to find the wire diagram for it wires come apart don't know where they go ,, unit from the slow boat area ..you did great on the repair see you in the next video ..
Your openness about the ENTIRE process is refreshing. Some people were born master machinists, apparently.
That stuff about different oils was REALLY fascinating! Thanks...
Quinn, you nailed it, I love repairing more than the oh sh#$%. Good thing for you you were dealing with parts easy to see and feel. Unfortunately last night I was repositioning my $100.00 indicator on my mill to set up my rotary table and accidentally knocked it off on to the concrete. Well didn't work when I picked it up. Rest of the evening spent digging out watchmakers screwdrivers and doing an autopsy on said instrument, smallest screwdrivers I had, akin to working on fleas balls. Had to disassemble the Guage and found the tiny clock arm mechanism knocked out of its groove. Removed it slid it back in place, worked perfect. So never give up no matter what. I'm 71 years old but still figure difficulties out. Hang in there girl, you are brilliant.
Awesome post again. I am an Electrical Contractor & Electronics Engineer and on occasion have found pausing to express harsh language is just what is needed to get the job done. 🙂
Supporting the leadscrew with a machinist jack for tapping out the tapered shear pin is a great idea and convinces me it's time to make some machinist jacks.
availed crashing the dam Lath we have all done it . been there got the shirt ,
Seconded, Quinn. You are probably the most effective salesperson for machinist jacks.
"Canadian Left" . "Imperial Fist Shake"... ha love it !
So tell me, what don't you know? You impress me with each video I watch.
Great repair. An alternate method of straightening is to heat the part and then put a wet rag on the high spot which will pull it back toward straight. Keep on keeping on.
For a master class on straightening check out Kieth Fenner's videos.
@@markbernier8434
Thanks for suggesting Keith Fenner's video on shaft straightening. It is quite an interesting and effective technique.
bent a axle on my 4 wheeler 15 years ago .. priced a new one said I would try and fix this 1st ,, they told me and other people said do NOT heat it ,, it was hardened ,, I have a cheap pipe bender with the dies and a jack in it .. rolled the axle on a flat surface marked the bend .. put it in the bender and rolled it again checking and marking the spot repeated 3 or 4 times ..reinstalled tested ok .. just have to know what your heating is not hardened or you have to get it re hardened
A glorious un-crashing!
Good repair of a silly mistake that luckily didn't cause much more damage.
Thanks for sharing.
Another great video. I’m pleased you managed to straighten the part ok. Probably better tolerance than when new🤣 If you ever have to straighten anything like that again I recommend cutting a radius in the end of a cold chisel. Not to try to cut the part but to be able to direct the impact pressure to exactly the right spot. The same thing is employed to straighten crankshafts. There are some great TH-cam videos of this process. Take care and stay safe.
Good idea! I actually have a dull chisel I could have used
I have succesfully straightened round items in the following way: first I machined aluminum half-rings, with the ring outer diameter double (or so) the outer diameter of the axle. (The rings were made with internal diameter to match the outer diameter of the axle that needed straightening, and then I sawed the rings in half.) The half-rings allowed me to exert a lot of force, without risking damage to the surface of the axle. I used a setup with three half-rings. I clamped the assembly in a vise with wide enough jaws, with the middle half ring set to push at the spot along the axle where it had been bent. So one jaw of the vise was pushing only the outer ends of the (short) axle, and the other jaw was pushing only the one half-ring at the spot where the bend had occurred. I supported the axle, so I could back off the jaws without the axle sliding down. With the jaws hardly pushing I slowly rotated the axle to feel where it was binding a little. At the orientation where the axle was binding the most I turned up the force of the vise, and then I backed off again. If I could feel no reduction of the bend then I would try again, turning up to a little more force, each time backing off again, and then rotating the axle to feel if there was still an orientation where it was binding a little. That way I was able to straighten that axle back to a point where I could roll it over a surface plate and I could no longer see any wobble.
Well done - I don’t know how you stay so patient 😂😂😂
When removing dowels with a centre thread use a slide hammer, it’s so easy with the right tools.
I bought a little Atlas lathe years ago at an estate sale that had a similar problem with it I paid $10 for it because the carriage wouldn't move but somebody had crashed it while it was in feed and did quite the number on it thank goodness there were still parts at that time available mid-90s ALL HAIL QUINN!!!
Not only Machinist,, but up-and-coming machine maintenance mechanic..😸😼👑
Build video idea! Shaft straightening press. Couple v blocks and an arbor press or small hydraulic press would make short work of lathe crash repairs!
Quinn, I love watching your videos because your a down to earth person (not afraid to make mistakes). It's great to see the repair of equipment at times and also all of your projects.
I love watching the mistakes and how to fix them. Always fascinating to see how other people approach problems.
Exactly this - it's great to see people who are humble about what they do.
I really like the "here's what I tried that didn't work" stuff. Negative discoveries as useful as positive discoveries
Good job Blondiaks! Very patient to straighten the shaft.
Blondihacks, (sorry)
It's good to see manufactures are still protecting consumers interest by making sure a pricy precision ground and hobbed part fails before the inexpensive bog standard shear pin needs replaced!
I don't think there is a world where the shear pin on the lead screw would break before anything in the apron would fail. It's there to protect the lead screw itself. Also some guy called Don Not told me that this ain't the most pricey machine in the world. I ain't judging Quinn, I'm sure this is a very useful and durable piece of machinery when used properly.
@@Shit_I_Missed. I take it you never had a Clausing, LaBlonde or Elliot Cardiff Major. We have broken shear pins on the lead and/or power feed shafts on all of them. (Pushing too heavy a cut) The pins are made of brass and/or aluminum at very specific diameters for a reason, you know. Just ALWAYS either use a factory pin or an exact shop made duplicate,,,including the alloy and they will do their job.
@@mathewmolk2089 Perhaps I misunderstood how the power was being transferred on this machine. I assumed it was going through the worm gear on the apron into the gears inside the apron which then bent the drive pinion. As Blonde said, the shear pin on the worm gear would be intended to save the half-nut if that is what was driving into the stalk. I guess the half-nut is also in the apron, but that's not what I intended to include.
That intro was freaking sweet...
Nice job Quinn, we have straighten a few shafts between two Vee blocks and using the arbor press . I realize your shaft is very small but I am always amazed at the memory metal has. some times you give the handle (its long) a tug and the shaft springs back . Your patience and approach to problem solving is inspirational ... Pete M
"So, i'll put it between centers on what remains of my lathe here...." 🤣
Trick I learned from my dad a long time ago: if you've got a roll-pin to insert in an awkward spot, a matchstick/toothpick will give you some extra surface to hold on to to get it started in the hole.
put the rollpin in the gear outside the apron much easier
You continue to amaze me. Your mechanical ability and knowledge rival anyone. You are also a talented entertainer.
*Canadian left ... you is a super star! Thanks for sharing!
Those Knipex compound-leverage channel-lock pliers are the absolute business, aren't they? Not a cheap tool, but really worth the price.
Best hand tool I own, honestly. Love them
Those Knippers! Two in my bug out pouch and one in the main toolbox. Use the heck out of them. Love em. Money well spent.
@@somebodyelse6673 "stong enough to damage themselves" really seems like a feature, not a bug.
Nice repair, good news the damage was minimal...Enjoyed !
Great video! Thank you for showing the troubleshooting and problem solving - it was very instructive! Also loved the "Adult language in progress" screen :D
I work in a lab and we use pigmats for everything. Fun to see it here.
Ahhh, it was Quinn. It sounded like Queenie. Duh, I could have just looked at your patreon info right there in front of me! Excellent job by the way. I too am no machine repair person. Everything I know I know it from working on cars and some equipment but almost all cars. I did use to be a tool designer on prog dies. The job didn't help me be a better mechanic but the training did and the fact that I was one of those "a hole engineers" we mechanics always complain about I developed a healthy appreciation for the guys in the front office. Working in machine shop, briefly helped me use my training as we were required to take the entire machine tool operations sequence. People were complaining about "having to take all those useless classes" because "I'm not going to be working in some nasty machine shop"....yea..... Being older when I went to college and paying out of pocket gave me a level of appreciation for it and all the work I did as a result all the way to being a mechanic in my mid fifties. Again, very good workmanship and especially the chasing down the problem so quickly. It's easy to second guess from the hind sight but I personally might have tried the press first. It would have taken almost no movement to straighten it and so I probably would have over bent it and like the proverbial coat hanger....snap. You took the calmer and smarter approach I would say. Thanks for the vid as always!
Quinn, in my opinion, this is one of your very best videos, especially for a newbie like myself. I'm bound to make more mistakes than you and this video encourages me to dig into the nitty gritty to solve and fix the problem. Just brilliant!
Nice job on straightening that shaft using the calibrated SMACK method.
Great job.
Nice repair.
Great content.
I also liked your line boring solution.
Thank you, EM.
Glad your back up and running mate. Have a good one.
Business Bingo! “Laser Focused”
Another great video unfortunately this one was your pain for our entertainment. Thanks for taking us along.
I appreciate that you left in the little mistakes because it reminds me that I'm not a clumsy idiot, anyone can drop a pin into the abyss. ❤
Oh, flashbacks! A few years ago, I bought an older lathe. The bronze nut for the cross slide/feed had worn out almost completely. All the shavings had ended up in the gearbox...
Cool. It's funny how much it looks like the micro lathe build
New subscriber and love your channel. I like seeing people critically think a problem theough and find solutions. 👌
In that application, the Starrett framing hammer is referred to in industry as a 16 oz. precision alignment probe, or a tactical lateral impact enhancement device.
Excellent recovery Quinn!
Good to see inside the apron to see how it all works !
That was awesome! I knew you could do it Quinn! And I'm sorry I laughed a lot when you tried to fit the pillow block again hahaha 🤣
Would you consider making a replacement part like that, with the repaired part back in place? I am curious how deep the Hobby goes. I enjoy all your videos, and your sense of humor. Thank you for sharing.
Getting into gearcutting is a whole new suite of tools, but well within her reach.
I tuned in expecting a replacement and got a repair. I’m impressed. That was even better than the other two Canadian versions of Crash, one by David Cronenberg and the other by Paul Haggis.
Yup.......brings me back to crashing my Craftex 709 ............twice!!! Once in the x....and once in y.
You really have to be on the ball when using the power feeds. Cracked some change gear bushings. So that was my baptism into my first lathe projects.....making those bushings which included keyways....luckily on the outside diameter of the bushing. I really took it hard on these crashes.......but could happen to besr of us.
I love your videos....and learn something all the time. I'm an old timer , but still have to work partly to support this habit.....amongst other things. Keep up your great videos!!!
Excellent repair execution!
Solid repair Quinn! very nice.
Great video, I am impressed by your skills and ability to share them.
Nothing more satisfying than a successful repair. Got a couple questions.
1) how heavy was that casting and lead screw? You didn't seem to struggle with it at all. You're either really strong (which honestly wouldn't surprise me) or it's lighter than it looks.
2) why is over filling the oil bad? I don't doubt that it is, but I like to understand why things are a certain way instead of just accepting.
Loved the video, couldn't help but yell yahtzee everytime a pin was removed😂
On EMCO lathes (made in Austria) the leadscrew is attached to the gear by a simple 3mm aluminium pin. if something crashes it cuts itself acting as a fuse.
I crashed 3 or 4 times without any damage, just the pin to be replaced.
Lots of respect to you for showing your mistakes . Continued success on your channel and your projects .
We have been there. Keep the faith, you are not alone. I took the pinion out, cut the shaft off, drilled a hole through the pinion and replaced the shaft with a straight bit of ms. Just used the compound for turning. It worked fine as well.
Using the compound to do the turning is a great workaround. Will remember that!
A Brass taper pin exists only as its easier to fit in poorly tolerance holes, spot on ref, not standard engineering.
Great demonstration of how a carriage functions, plus Great job.
Thanks for sharing
Having taking apart a 1940/50's (1943 design date, unsure of actual production date) lathe's carriage powerfeed and leadscrew assembly, I am VERY envious of that coupler to remove your lathe's leadscrew from it's gearbox, aswell as the pillowblock's alignment pins that are front-removable!
In my case I had to take the gearbox, apron, and pillowblock off and back onto the lathe as one large, unwieldly assembly!
I admire your tenacity - I once tried to drill out a rusty, seized in roll pin - it was impossible as it was hardened so broke a load of drill bits - ended up getting an angle grinder on it! Heatin' 'n' beatin' - great phrase :D Oh and telescopic magnet is brilliant for fishing things out!
Yah I think they are spring steel, so maybe a carbide drill would be required. No fun, I’m sure!
Perfect blend of instruction, humor, and articulate expression, as always.
I just had a thought of a helpful tip: Hot glue the roll pin perpendicular to a screwdriver or scrap of metal. Use it as a skinny helper to position the pin in those tight quarters. Once you get it started just break off the hot glue.
Did the same thing on my 14-40 because the lead screw clutch was adjusted so tight it was no longer a clutch--except I had the fun of cracking and distorting the housing in the process. 1977 era Korean lathe so it was fix or scrap, no part replacement. Sometimes ya just gotta do what ya gotta do, inventing a LOT of new swear words in the process.
As always, excellent video.
Hello, I love this program.
Don't forget to pre-start that roll pin in the gear next time! I use that trick often because my hands often aren't steady enough to hold the roll pin in a tight space, especially over an open oil sump!!
Great job! I use the pulling bolt threaded into the taper pin to tap the pin in fully and then fully tighten
Hey G'day, I've seen your youtubes a few times and finally a subscriber. I do appreciate your knowledge and the wonderful and easily digestible way you tackle all your tutorials!!! keep it up.
You're one of my favorites. I strive to have your patience and positive outlook. Good form as always.👍
Great job Quinn! It never fails, when I crash a machine I need that machine to make the part to fix it.
Ain’t that the truth!
Great job on getting out of that jamb!
I love the way you describe the process, especially the frustrating stuff.
Nice save Quinn! “Heatin and Beatin” when gentle persuasion just isn’t working.😊👍🏻
I like your insert of Adult Language Notification. That is Class. Thanks
When you said "Well there's your problem " I genuinely thought you were going to say "Ain't got no gas in it.". 😂
My first lathe had the same carriage gearbox and leadscrew with the brass shearpin - yes, I sheared it and was grateful for the designer's foresight!
Good story, well told as usual.
Good repair. Treaded dowels can be removed with a slide hammer.
A good idea would be to make an attachment to the mill so you can do basic lath operations on it. As most problems on the lathe need a late to fix.
So as you change your chinese apron oil, I remember the last time I had my own lathe apart, and "new oil" poured into the apron gears. It's got to be twenty five years or so. The "double imperial fist shake" should be accompanied by "colorful metaphors" denoting the level of angst achieved. Very good job finding the problem, and fixing it right.
This gives me hope and encouragement to try to fix the rod for my power feed on my tiny unimat. The I tried to "fix" it by buying a replacement (ebay, all parts are vintage and have quirks). I have a "better" rod but it is just bent in a different places. I now have two so I can pick one to try to fix.
HI; To straighten the shaft, use 12 😊 ton press, with v blocks and dial indicator.
All these years, that's the first time anyone explained the story behind "detergent" oils. I am old enough to remember when these first appeared!
second video that i have discovered from you and i am in love
Nice fix, glad it was not too serious well done.
Nice humor! Nice job! Thank's...
very well done, I once worked in a armoured plate department I was astounded by the guys on the big hydraulic press they could straighten plate 1". to 3". thick to a couple of thou jaw dropping stuff..
Your a hoot to watch , very good video . Glad you got it fixed .
Quinn, to remove tapered pins with threads, you need a slide hammer... works like a charm. and likewise to reinstall em...
When I have to take apart something oily I copy the manual pages then with one of those $10 laminators put each in plastic. Nice to work with and don’t have to worry about ruining the original manual. Bought one of those Bridgeport rebuild guides and laminated the whole thing.
Never trust a manual that doesn't have greasy finger prints on it.
Job done, thumbs up!
Lots of you-know-whatty-what-whatting, the masses are appeased.
Yay! I was hoping we'd see the fire!
Good job on the repair. On that pinion shaft bending, I see a major flaw in the design being that the pinion hangs out way past the last support bearing on a rather thin shaft. The apron casting should have had an extended boss where the bearing goes through and have the bearing directly behind the pinion, for proper support.
Awesome video and a good result. One way I have used to straighten things is to put it in a hydraulic press, and use a dial indicator to measure the deflection.
You have the same manufacture of lathe as mine, albeit branded differently. This video has taught me a lot about how to strip it when the inevitable happen. I'm almost looking forward to you damaging the main gearbox so we can see how that comes apart. I suspect with much more difficulty!
Done and done.
And with only one single and one double imperial fist shake.
Excellent.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
For small engine oil changes, I bought one of those suction oil removers. It may not get 100%, but the ease factor so I actually change oil more often I hope makes up for that.