Very good progress. Easy to make it run faster if the present design does not cut well. Very quiet and smooth operation. I like the art deco design for the stand. Dave.
What a neat, beautifully executed job! I never would have thought of designing a flat belt reduction drive like that. The old steam engine and other power driven machinery wouldn’t have been possible without flat belts. You can cut mild steel up to 150 fpm so no problem there.
I suspect slippage will be an issue. I might end up making the second flat belt a chain. I timed bottom wheel. and counted 33 turns a minute. this is exactly 100 SFPM
@@ellieprice363 Actually its the other way around. High torque causes belts to slip. The motor has low torque and high speed. The V-belt after the slow down will likely be the biggest issue.
@@WinkysWorkshopYes you’re probably right. I was remembering how worn clutches in old three speed cars always slipped in high gear instead of low. Can’t quite get my head wrapped around your setup. Actually it would be pretty easy to test. Apply an increasing heavy load on the final pulley until you get slippage then watch where it occurs.
Winky, this was really cool, I have watched your videos for a long time and thought that you were maybe a retired engineer but no matter, I like the way you figure your way through to success, Thanks for sharing.
I did something similar for my Burke mill. I utilized a 2 speed, 2 h.p. motor and misc. parts from a fan (stuff that came with it). It uses the more modern flat grooved belt, like you find on automobiles. I think I got pretty close to my target rpm on the lowest speed, but it's not nearly as neat looking as your work is. I had to make the pulley for the motor, and had a nasty time trying to measure the distance of/between the grooves, as my now old eyes kept trying to cross every time I tried. Out of frustration, I tried using a thread pitch gauge, and found that 11 tpi matched the grooves perfectly ... just a little tip to keep in mind if you ever find yourself having to make a pulley for one of those belts!
Hello Winky, you did a really good job on the reduction pulleys neat and tidy, it sounds so quiet too, awesome job, I look forward to next weeks video, Cheers from me, thanks for sharing. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Winky, there was something particularly soothing about this project. I gotta say though that I had serious doubts about the diameter of those flat drive pulleys. Especially because the belts are relatively short. In the end It turned out to be just as soothing to watch it run. Looking forward to see you put it through some demanding cuts! 🧐 Wakodahatchee Chris
Looks very cool. I like where this is going. If the small pulleys slip under load, could you put a slight straight knurl on them, or would that wear the belts too rapidly? Or could you add adjustable tensioners to the unloaded sides to increase wrap? That Lazy Machinist (not calling anyone names, that's the name of his channel) has an interesting way of machining crowned pulleys. Search YT for that phrase. I read somewhere, perhaps in one of Guy Lautard's Machinist's Bedside Readers, of a fellow who positioned his bandsaw such that he could run a long belt from his lathe to get multiple low drive speeds. Reminds me of an old time shop with an overhead drive line powereing several machines. Clever perhaps for occasional use, but I think you'll use your saw much too frequently for that to be practical.
Great design and execution. If you are concerned about shaft stick-out, you could bore out the shaft holes and make pipe sleeves to locate the bushings closer to the pulleys.
I do not understand why the green belt does not slip, there is no tensioner on it. Or will it slip in the future when it stretches? How do you get a belt built that accurately so it does not slip? Maybe you can address this in your next video. Thanks for another great video, always enjoy watching them.
These belts are fairly amazing. Yes it took me two tries to get the length right. Honestly if I had not seen it done in the past I probably would have added a tension idler. The belt is about 1/16" to 1/8" shorter than the actual length and it will not stretch.... well not for years anyway. I will say that under load the second flat belt does slip. It's plenty tight but too much torque. I installed a chain. More to come... hopefully i didn't spoil it.
Spiral flute or spiral point and never a plug tap. They require a lot more effort and reversing to break the chips. I have about 20 different brands. About 10 years ago a guy gave me a box full of taps and I've been using them, no idea what the brand names are.
Winky, when you were turning the crowns on the pulleys, after turning one side you swapped it round to do the other side. You lost concentricity in doing that, why did you not swing the compund to 2 degrees the other way ? you had plenty of clearance to do so. I noticed too, on the lathe that when you ream it tends to follow any runout in the drilled hole, so you end up with an excentric hole. Best practice to get a concentric hole is to drill first then bore the first 1/8" or so to size, this will then locate the reamer and any drilled runout will then get removed, giving you a much better job. Great outcome. Regards from Australia.
I mostly agree. Ideally I should have left the shafts longer on the big pulleys and then used a collet. Flipping the pulley is much better mostly because it's hard to see where center is. Also the lack of concentricity is off one way on one side and the other on the other side. It averages out when the pulley is running. The reamed hole being off was on the small pulleys and they were going to be mounted to a mandrel for turning. so it didn't matter. Technically you are correct on all accounts but the end result was unaffected. However I still think flipping the pulley is the way to go.
I liked the whole vid. and I like the project but why not just use step pulleys? Were you just looking for a good project? If so that is reason enough. I'm just curious.
Step pulleys would work but it's hard to get enough speed reduction. Small pulleys with V belts have limits as to how small you can go. Also, I would have had to incorporate a tension system. With the flat belts you can make the pulleys smaller and make the belts right size (of course, hard for most to do). The reduction is fairly extreme and the size and weight would have been greater with V-belts. Plus yeah, it looks cool and its fun.
This will be nice when you finish. But I do agree with you on whether the flat belt will grab on that small of a pulley being that its so small. Maybe put a taller crown in it. And will it still grab and keep running under a hard load. Looks good .
well done, I done something similar with a small 10" band saw that I converted to a metal saw. I used a 2 sage of pulley reduction with one gearbox to achieve a wheel speed of 42 RPM, I used a A profile belt between the motor and the gearbox and a K6 automotive serpentine belt betwen the gearbox and the saw. To what I experimented, the frame of your saw is not sufficiently rigid to saw metal without encountering heavy resonnent vibrations so it will need a reinforcing structure to compensate for the weakness of the saw neck. Probably that the table support will need to be reinforced too. another point is that the "V" belt have not enough grip to withstand the torque needed to cut metal and you'll experiment saw jam and tooth breakage.
The problem with double belt is that they ar not matched and only one will take the load, what I can suggest you is toinstall cast rion pulleys instead of aluminum, ( Aluminum have the tendency to glaze and clog the belt friction surfaces ) and a tensioner or idler to make the " V " belt wrap the driver pulley to a larger angle @@WinkysWorkshop
Thank you Mark for your efforts in this neat conversion and making the video. And Jacques' remarks on his experience seems spot-on too. I'm considering slowing my 14" Delta wood belt saw down as well, but everyone I've watched on YT who tried this route seem to have only had limlited or no success in the end, for exactly the reasons Jacques spelled out. AvE, Dazecars both come to mind
@@stephanuhu963 Hello and thanks for the comment. As my reply to Jacques said, he might be right. I was most worried about belt slippage. Currently I am 3 videos ahead and the saw is finished and works very well. As for the frame of the saw not being ridgid, well, this was definitely NOT a concern. This saw is built like a tank. Hopefully I don't spoil the upcoming videos for you but I replaced the second flat belt with a chain and ended up adding a very simple (and ingenious :o) tension lever on the motor bracket to stop the V-belt slippage. My only concern now is the sleeve bearings handling the additional V-belt tension. The saw is ball bearing so I'm not too worried in this regard. If this becomes an issue I'll install a timing belt or install a ball bearing in the slow down.
A worthy project! Your videos are high quality and nice to watch. My question for you is; where did you find any info on the amount of crown for these pulleys? I renovated an old Maytag 92 that has a crowned drive pulley and it seemed to be about 1:10 on crown height to rim width. Any clues on flat belt drive design..? Thanks
This sounds crazy but there is no optimum. More crown has more centering effect so alignment and belt quality is less of an issue and the belt stays center on the pulley. On the flip side, too much crown reduces surface area so the belt does not drive as well and in some cases too much crown will damage the belt. Also I made inverted V crowns, in reality a rounded crown is better but not by much. I usually make most pulleys 1.5 to 2 degrees. Also I worked for a printing company that used a lot of belts. I was in charge of belts and also fixing and modifying stacking machines (which had many belts)
I am so ENVIOUS as how your brain (thought process) works. Your ability to envision what you want and then proceed to make it are first rate! Thanks for sharing.
@@rexmyers991 Thanks Rex, its a mixed bag. Sometimes things come together fairly fast. The bandsaw took about 2 weeks of thought and it was a fun challenge. On the other I hand usually have 3 or 4 future project digesting in my brain... sometimes for years! They compete with each other and take up valuable space in my head. I'm so glad I'm retired, projects at work disrupted my sleep.
Thanks for the reply. If you visit in the North West, the Museum of Flight in Seattle, an odd place to have old wood working tools, has quite a few belt driven tools on display.@@WinkysWorkshop
@@Servoengr I grew up in Lynnwood and went to the Museum of Flight while I was up there a maybe 6 years ago. Yes they have some very cool stuff there. Pain Field also had a much smaller museum but now that it's a commercial airport I'm not sure if its there. I miss Seattle but not the rain and traffic.
Great job! I did a similar project with an old Shop Smith bandsaw. Used Dave Gingery’s speed reduction. Your saw is beautiful. Where do you find all those old tools? ;-)
While I really dig the look and genius of flat belt technology. I think were it me I would try to find a small gearbox to save some valuable time and space. To have a small horizontal bandsaw in my shop would be very handy. (I use a portable!) However I am not you, and I don't think you are trying too earn money repairing industrial machinery. Therefore your approach is really appealing and far more interesting. After watching your Hardinge build, I think I would be disappointed had you thought of a gear box! Besides to see all those belts doing their reduction is loads of fun and that's really what this is all about, Isn't it?. Well done sir.
Good assessment. Thankfully I have a retirement income. If I had to survive on machine restorations or making parts I'd probably starve. All my working life I was forced to do what was most cost effective and logical and yes, it is a wonderful luxury to have the freedom to do what comes to mind without worrying about a profit margin and to some degree what it costs.
With the pulley arms having some sideways flexing, why not put some spacers in between to make it a solid unit. Round turned pillars with a tapped hole in each end and a clearance hole in the arms. It may also improve any bearing wear as the shaft would always be in the same place on the shaft instead of it oscilating. Regards from Australia.
I need new gears, mostly the spindle gear. I use 600 wt gear lube but it doesn't last long. The open gear lube is messy stuff but maybe I need to use it.
Wood And metal, you suprised me with that one. Did you get a new shop dog? That can not be the same beast that you showed years ago trying to dig it's way through the bedroom floor.
@@stevenhintz5508 I'm guessing faster would be okay but here is what google said: "A bandsaw blade speed is expressed in surface feet per minute (SFPM). For metal, typical blade speeds range from 60-300 SFPM. A general guide for cutting mild steel is 50-120 m/min. Running the machine at a much slower speed, about 100 feet per minute, is needed to cut steel. Running it any faster almost guarantees that you'll damage the blade."
@@WinkysWorkshop The sawblade site has a good chart on blade speeds for all kinds of steel using bi-metal blades. Go to the bottom of the page under about us for the chart. Can’t post a link
@@stevenhintz5508 It's amazing how widely the recommendations vary. It does look like on average I could run faster. Harder steel and cast iron needs to be slow so I'm good there. I wish i had aimed for about 200 SFPM but I suspect blades will last longer going slow.
muy interesante ese trabajo de poleas SUPONGO QUE ES PARA ESTABLECER DISTINTOS TIPOS DE RPM BRAVO POR ESE TRABAJ O yo le pondria una pletina soldada de lado a lado de los 2 brazos
Hi Mark, After watching your wonderful build on todays posting I just happened to come across this other you tube post. When I saw it I immediately thought of your build and how one of these would absolutely fit in perfectly with your build(s)....here's the posting...th-cam.com/video/gh0SV8aPnMU/w-d-xo.html I am sure if you can acquire one you will definitely use it. Hope you do as it would be a great addition in your workshop. Keep up your GREAT work. Don
I like it!
It's all about having fun, otherwise it would be work.
Thanks for letting us watch.
You are right, I love doing this stuff.
Very good progress. Easy to make it run faster if the present design does not cut well.
Very quiet and smooth operation.
I like the art deco design for the stand.
Dave.
Thanks
That’s some old school machine shop artistry right there! Fantastic job!
Thanks you sir. Fun to watch too.
So very cool. I've never seen a variable speed band saw before. What a great idea.
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Awesome Matty
You are a true craftsman/ machinist😊
Thanks, hopefully slippage is not an issue.
Speed looks just right Winky. Nice job all the way around!
Thanks
I do not think I have seen anyone do that before. Very impressive though. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks, will do!
You did the same wirh flat belts that I did with Jack-shafts and V belts. Neat concept plus it is a bit more compact than my set up.
Thanks, I suspect the V-belts might be better. My flat belts might slip.
Great job Mark. Looks like it's going to work great. Can't wait to see that stand. So cool.
Thanks 👍 The stand is coming along great!
Yes, well done indeed! Brilliant solution! :)
Thank you! Cheers!
Well done sir!
Thanks
Very cool! Love the stand. Reminds me of a old jukebox.
Yeah in some ways for sure.
What a neat, beautifully executed job! I never would have thought of designing a flat belt reduction drive like that. The old steam engine and other power driven machinery wouldn’t have been possible without flat belts. You can cut mild steel up to 150 fpm so no problem there.
I suspect slippage will be an issue. I might end up making the second flat belt a chain. I timed bottom wheel. and counted 33 turns a minute. this is exactly 100 SFPM
@@WinkysWorkshopYou might want to use a cog type belt on that first flat drive. The highest speed is the most likely to slip.
@@ellieprice363 Actually its the other way around. High torque causes belts to slip. The motor has low torque and high speed. The V-belt after the slow down will likely be the biggest issue.
knurl the wheels@@WinkysWorkshop
@@WinkysWorkshopYes you’re probably right. I was remembering how worn clutches in old three speed cars always slipped in high gear instead of low. Can’t quite get my head wrapped around your setup. Actually it would be pretty easy to test. Apply an increasing heavy load on the final pulley until you get slippage then watch where it occurs.
This is such a great project and a great video! I can hardly wait to see the stand!
Thanks Dave, good to hear from you.
Great job as always Mark in making those flat belt pulleys, that slow it down real good!👍
Thanks 👍
Always a magic time when your videos come up! Thanks, Les in UK 🇬🇧
Wow, thanks!
Excellent job, Mark. What a genius contraption. I like it !
Thanks, this has been a fun project.
Very Clever, love the Stand as well, it will look good Winky.
Thanks!
Winky, this was really cool, I have watched your videos for a long time and thought that you were maybe a retired engineer but no matter, I like the way you figure your way through to success, Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, No degree but I was doing an engineers job for the last 5 yrs before I retired.
I did something similar for my Burke mill. I utilized a 2 speed, 2 h.p. motor and misc. parts from a fan (stuff that came with it). It uses the more modern flat grooved belt, like you find on automobiles. I think I got pretty close to my target rpm on the lowest speed, but it's not nearly as neat looking as your work is.
I had to make the pulley for the motor, and had a nasty time trying to measure the distance of/between the grooves, as my now old eyes kept trying to cross every time I tried. Out of frustration, I tried using a thread pitch gauge, and found that 11 tpi matched the grooves perfectly ... just a little tip to keep in mind if you ever find yourself having to make a pulley for one of those belts!
Very cool information. Thanks!
And another one nearly done, great Content as always
Thanks for the visit
Hello Winky, you did a really good job on the reduction pulleys neat and tidy, it sounds so quiet too, awesome job, I look forward to next weeks video, Cheers from me, thanks for sharing. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
Winky, there was something particularly soothing about this project. I gotta say though that I had serious doubts about the diameter of those flat drive pulleys. Especially because the belts are relatively short. In the end It turned out to be just as soothing to watch it run. Looking forward to see you put it through some demanding cuts! 🧐
Wakodahatchee Chris
I run into a few problems but also work through them. Thanks
Awesome job Mark!
Thanks
Exalent work, it's always a pleasure watching your work
Thank you very much!
Looks good. Take care and thanks for the video.
Thanks 👍
Really slick design!
Thanks
You have done what several prominent TH-cam creators have tried and failed to do. I’d be very interested in how this works out in the long run.
I'm now a couple videos ahead and it's not perfect but I persistent.
You a smart guy!!!! looks good.
Thanks
Looks very cool. I like where this is going. If the small pulleys slip under load, could you put a slight straight knurl on them, or would that wear the belts too rapidly? Or could you add adjustable tensioners to the unloaded sides to increase wrap?
That Lazy Machinist (not calling anyone names, that's the name of his channel) has an interesting way of machining crowned pulleys. Search YT for that phrase.
I read somewhere, perhaps in one of Guy Lautard's Machinist's Bedside Readers, of a fellow who positioned his bandsaw such that he could run a long belt from his lathe to get multiple low drive speeds. Reminds me of an old time shop with an overhead drive line powereing several machines. Clever perhaps for occasional use, but I think you'll use your saw much too frequently for that to be practical.
All good ideas, I think I might make the second flat belt a chain drive
Great design and execution.
If you are concerned about shaft stick-out, you could bore out the shaft holes and make pipe sleeves to locate the bushings closer to the pulleys.
That would probably be a good idea. I like it.
98 Percent of the way through the video I was sure you were making a Rube Goldberg . But all of a sudden at the end I liked it :) nice job
Haha... yeah, it is kind of, thanks
I do not understand why the green belt does not slip, there is no tensioner on it. Or will it slip in the future when it stretches? How do you get a belt built that accurately so it does not slip? Maybe you can address this in your next video. Thanks for another great video, always enjoy watching them.
These belts are fairly amazing. Yes it took me two tries to get the length right. Honestly if I had not seen it done in the past I probably would have added a tension idler. The belt is about 1/16" to 1/8" shorter than the actual length and it will not stretch.... well not for years anyway. I will say that under load the second flat belt does slip. It's plenty tight but too much torque. I installed a chain. More to come... hopefully i didn't spoil it.
Looks good. Neat way of making the larger flat pulleys. When your tapping holes it looks so effortless, what brand of taps are you using?
Spiral flute or spiral point and never a plug tap. They require a lot more effort and reversing to break the chips. I have about 20 different brands. About 10 years ago a guy gave me a box full of taps and I've been using them, no idea what the brand names are.
Very smart thinking. Kind of cheeky not cutting any metal on it this time around. Can't wait for the next installment now.
Ha, not intended, I was waiting on the new blades.
Winky, when you were turning the crowns on the pulleys, after turning one side you swapped it round to do the other side. You lost concentricity in doing that, why did you not swing the compund to 2 degrees the other way ? you had plenty of clearance to do so. I noticed too, on the lathe that when you ream it tends to follow any runout in the drilled hole, so you end up with an excentric hole. Best practice to get a concentric hole is to drill first then bore the first 1/8" or so to size, this will then locate the reamer and any drilled runout will then get removed, giving you a much better job. Great outcome. Regards from Australia.
I mostly agree. Ideally I should have left the shafts longer on the big pulleys and then used a collet. Flipping the pulley is much better mostly because it's hard to see where center is. Also the lack of concentricity is off one way on one side and the other on the other side. It averages out when the pulley is running. The reamed hole being off was on the small pulleys and they were going to be mounted to a mandrel for turning. so it didn't matter. Technically you are correct on all accounts but the end result was unaffected. However I still think flipping the pulley is the way to go.
I liked the whole vid. and I like the project but why not just use step pulleys? Were you just looking for a good project? If so that is reason enough. I'm just curious.
Step pulleys would work but it's hard to get enough speed reduction. Small pulleys with V belts have limits as to how small you can go. Also, I would have had to incorporate a tension system. With the flat belts you can make the pulleys smaller and make the belts right size (of course, hard for most to do). The reduction is fairly extreme and the size and weight would have been greater with V-belts. Plus yeah, it looks cool and its fun.
This will be nice when you finish. But I do agree with you on whether the flat belt will grab on that small of a pulley being that its so small. Maybe put a taller crown in it. And will it still grab and keep running under a hard load. Looks good .
I think a chain is in my future.
well done,
I done something similar with a small 10" band saw that I converted to a metal saw. I used a 2 sage of pulley reduction with one gearbox to achieve a wheel speed of 42 RPM, I used a A profile belt between the motor and the gearbox and a K6 automotive serpentine belt betwen the gearbox and the saw.
To what I experimented, the frame of your saw is not sufficiently rigid to saw metal without encountering heavy resonnent vibrations so it will need a reinforcing structure to compensate for the weakness of the saw neck. Probably that the table support will need to be reinforced too.
another point is that the "V" belt have not enough grip to withstand the torque needed to cut metal and you'll experiment saw jam and tooth breakage.
I suspect you are correct. Maybe 2 v belts?
The problem with double belt is that they ar not matched and only one will take the load, what I can suggest you is toinstall cast rion pulleys instead of aluminum, ( Aluminum have the tendency to glaze and clog the belt friction surfaces ) and a tensioner or idler to make the " V " belt wrap the driver pulley to a larger angle
@@WinkysWorkshop
@@jacquespoirier9071 For sure they would need to be a matched set but I'm thinking maybe a timing belt. Cast iron might be better to.
Thank you Mark for your efforts in this neat conversion and making the video. And Jacques' remarks on his experience seems spot-on too. I'm considering slowing my 14" Delta wood belt saw down as well, but everyone I've watched on YT who tried this route seem to have only had limlited or no success in the end, for exactly the reasons Jacques spelled out. AvE, Dazecars both come to mind
@@stephanuhu963 Hello and thanks for the comment. As my reply to Jacques said, he might be right. I was most worried about belt slippage. Currently I am 3 videos ahead and the saw is finished and works very well. As for the frame of the saw not being ridgid, well, this was definitely NOT a concern. This saw is built like a tank. Hopefully I don't spoil the upcoming videos for you but I replaced the second flat belt with a chain and ended up adding a very simple (and ingenious :o) tension lever on the motor bracket to stop the V-belt slippage. My only concern now is the sleeve bearings handling the additional V-belt tension. The saw is ball bearing so I'm not too worried in this regard. If this becomes an issue I'll install a timing belt or install a ball bearing in the slow down.
Fantastic from oxford England 🏴
I'm chuffed to bits! Thanks mate.
Very impressed !
Thanks!
Isn't it cool? I had to keep backing it up to watch it run. You can bet there's not another one like it. Good job!
So true, thanks!
A worthy project! Your videos are high quality and nice to watch. My question for you is; where did you find any info on the amount of crown for these pulleys? I renovated an old Maytag 92 that has a crowned drive pulley and it seemed to be about 1:10 on crown height to rim width. Any clues on flat belt drive design..? Thanks
This sounds crazy but there is no optimum. More crown has more centering effect so alignment and belt quality is less of an issue and the belt stays center on the pulley. On the flip side, too much crown reduces surface area so the belt does not drive as well and in some cases too much crown will damage the belt. Also I made inverted V crowns, in reality a rounded crown is better but not by much. I usually make most pulleys 1.5 to 2 degrees. Also I worked for a printing company that used a lot of belts. I was in charge of belts and also fixing and modifying stacking machines (which had many belts)
I am so ENVIOUS as how your brain (thought process) works. Your ability to envision what you want and then proceed to make it are first rate! Thanks for sharing.
@@rexmyers991 Thanks Rex, its a mixed bag. Sometimes things come together fairly fast. The bandsaw took about 2 weeks of thought and it was a fun challenge. On the other I hand usually have 3 or 4 future project digesting in my brain... sometimes for years! They compete with each other and take up valuable space in my head. I'm so glad I'm retired, projects at work disrupted my sleep.
Thanks for the reply. If you visit in the North West, the Museum of Flight in Seattle, an odd place to have old wood working tools, has quite a few belt driven tools on display.@@WinkysWorkshop
@@Servoengr I grew up in Lynnwood and went to the Museum of Flight while I was up there a maybe 6 years ago. Yes they have some very cool stuff there. Pain Field also had a much smaller museum but now that it's a commercial airport I'm not sure if its there. I miss Seattle but not the rain and traffic.
Great job! I did a similar project with an old Shop Smith bandsaw. Used Dave Gingery’s speed reduction. Your saw is beautiful. Where do you find all those old tools? ;-)
Thanks. Mostly craigslist and FB market place.
While I really dig the look and genius of flat belt technology. I think were it me I would try to find a small gearbox to save some valuable time and space. To have a small horizontal bandsaw in my shop would be very handy. (I use a portable!) However I am not you, and I don't think you are trying too earn money repairing industrial machinery. Therefore your approach is really appealing and far more interesting. After watching your Hardinge build, I think I would be disappointed had you thought of a gear box! Besides to see all those belts doing their reduction is loads of fun and that's really what this is all about, Isn't it?. Well done sir.
Good assessment. Thankfully I have a retirement income. If I had to survive on machine restorations or making parts I'd probably starve. All my working life I was forced to do what was most cost effective and logical and yes, it is a wonderful luxury to have the freedom to do what comes to mind without worrying about a profit margin and to some degree what it costs.
With the pulley arms having some sideways flexing, why not put some spacers in between to make it a solid unit. Round turned pillars with a tapped hole in each end and a clearance hole in the arms. It may also improve any bearing wear as the shaft would always be in the same place on the shaft instead of it oscilating. Regards from Australia.
You're taking away from my next video :)
BTW, my friend in South Africa forwarded this video of yours on to me, who is watching in Moncton New Brunswick, Canada 😅
COOL! @@stephanuhu963
Ingenious 👏👏👍😀
Thank you! 😊
Amazing!
Thank you! Cheers!
Well Done... Again. Good Work.. If you put some External Gear Lube on those gears it would quiet that machine a ton.
I need new gears, mostly the spindle gear. I use 600 wt gear lube but it doesn't last long. The open gear lube is messy stuff but maybe I need to use it.
I like it!
Super!
Very nice I like it😊
Thanks
What's next?!
Nice job!
Not sure yet, thanks
I can't think of the right word. How about Just Fantastic! or "I LIKE IT!"
Hahaha, thanks Terry
Good fix!
Thanks
Nice job 👍
Thanks
Wood And metal, you suprised me with that one. Did you get a new shop dog? That can not be the same beast that you showed years ago trying to dig it's way through the bedroom floor.
Haha... thats him. He is a BIG Lab, part Great Dane I think. Super smart dog.
@@WinkysWorkshop My father's last dog was a yellow Lab, she was a smart one also plus very lovable.
Nice one Winky
Thanks Steve
Awesome 👏
Thanks 🤗
Bravo! Cheers.
Thanks
I converted my bandsaw to cut steel with a gear reduction box. I found that about 250sfpm was about right for general use
Interesting... and you may be right but everything I've read say 100 for mild steel.
@@WinkysWorkshop The charts I’ve seen show that low of a speed for tool steels but in the 250-275 for mild steel
@@stevenhintz5508 I'm guessing faster would be okay but here is what google said: "A bandsaw blade speed is expressed in surface feet per minute (SFPM). For metal, typical blade speeds range from 60-300 SFPM. A general guide for cutting mild steel is 50-120 m/min. Running the machine at a much slower speed, about 100 feet per minute, is needed to cut steel. Running it any faster almost guarantees that you'll damage the blade."
@@WinkysWorkshop The sawblade site has a good chart on blade speeds for all kinds of steel using bi-metal blades. Go to the bottom of the page under about us for the chart. Can’t post a link
@@stevenhintz5508 It's amazing how widely the recommendations vary. It does look like on average I could run faster. Harder steel and cast iron needs to be slow so I'm good there. I wish i had aimed for about 200 SFPM but I suspect blades will last longer going slow.
muy interesante ese trabajo de poleas SUPONGO QUE ES PARA ESTABLECER DISTINTOS TIPOS DE RPM BRAVO POR ESE TRABAJ O yo le pondria una pletina soldada de lado a lado de los 2 brazos
Good idea, I will do this!
i would try knurling the wheels if they slip.
That might have worked but I switched to a chain.
It seems like there was little or no plan for a logical sequence of operations. I couldn't keep watching.
Funny, you must need a lot of structure in your life. Pullies, uprights, motor cleanup, belts and demo. There's an outline for you.
💪💪😎💪💪
Thanks
Hi Mark,
After watching your wonderful build on todays posting I just happened to come across this other you tube post. When I saw it I immediately thought of your build and how one of these would absolutely fit in perfectly with your build(s)....here's the posting...th-cam.com/video/gh0SV8aPnMU/w-d-xo.html
I am sure if you can acquire one you will definitely use it. Hope you do as it would be a great addition in your workshop.
Keep up your GREAT work.
Don
I have actually watched this video. And yes, a very cool motor. Interesting that he used the same switch idea as I used on my belt sander.
Would be a neat addition......@@WinkysWorkshop
For sure!
@@donteeple6124