Thank you so much. That comment made my day. I’m so happy you think that, and that’s what I was hoping to accomplish. It helped that I had my learning curve on the driver side, but I tried to help people just like me that had never done something like that before. I’m really glad you feel that way, and thanks for the comment
This is a great. I’m not even do this job on my truck but a video like this and a repair manual could save the weekend mechanic who know how much aggravation and time. Thank you
Love your straight forward and honest presentation; clearly, you are a teacher. Instructions given perfect for a guy new on the job without a lot of tools or experience or cash.
This was one of the clearest, most descriptive videos on this subject that I have watched. I'm currently working on this on my '89 Bronco, but the parts are basically the same. Just like you, I have probably watched a dozen videos. I wish I had seen this one first! Thanks!!!
Thank you! I've watched many videos as I'm getting ready to change my wheel bearings, and yours is the first video that shows how to change the locking hub parts at the same time!
Your very welcome. This was the first time I had ever changed wheel bearings or hubs. Needless to say the driver side had the learning curve and went way worse since I done it first off camera….lol. Overall it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be and was actually pretty fun, so I hope it turns out the same for you. Comment back and let us know if it was a success, and feel free to reach out to me if you run into any trouble
Thanks for a most helpful video. I reviewed it several times to make sure you got it back together the way it came apart. And special thanks for including the part at the end showing how to easily see that the locking hubs were working. Good job! See you in the next one. 🌙
Thank you very much, and I’m glad the video was helpful. Before doing this project I had never attempted to change wheel bearings, but it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. Hope this gave pretty clear directions for you to follow and make it more fun than work
@@TheCraftyCrowShow Yes, I've repacked quite a number and replaced some as well. I hadn't done a F150 4x4 hub since the 80's and am about to do one now. Just needed a little refresher and yours was perfect. Thanks again!
@@TheCraftyCrowShow It makes me feel good knowing it's not a can of worms. I'm grateful there are folks like yourself willing to share what you have learned so that I can easily do it right the first time! What a world ! ✌
Great vid definitely the one stop shop video you were shooting for. Great break down on the taking apart the hub and the good attitude about it makes me dread doing this job less. This video earned a subscriber!
Thanks a lot man! I was dreading the job too since I had never done it, but it wasn’t as bad as I thought it was going to be. I’d definitely advise the gloves though, because that grease gets messy quick…..lol
I had to have mine replaced a few years back, but took it to a trusted mechanic. Had I known it was this easy, I would have just done it myself. But that’s exactly what happened to Jon with this truck. I’m so grateful it didn’t come off on him. Glad you made it without getting hurt too
Don’t strike your seals with the metal strike face of your hammer. Use the handle to tap it in or drive it in with a wooden dowel or block. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
I had never done it or seen it done. Good thing I had Kathy’s dad to bounce stuff off, but learned a lot off TH-cam videos. Just was trying to make a better video than the ones I seen
Don’t have a link handy but with the 96 trucks the inner nut gets torqued to 50 lb/ft and backed off 45 degrees then the lock washer and lock nut go on and gets torqued to 150 lb/ft. Also, with the grease it’s supposed to be moly-ep, though I haven’t had any issues running the red stuff in my 96 bronco over the past two years. just changed over the passenger side to moly grease today though. Great video !!
Thank you, and thanks for sharing that great info. It was pretty hard trying to find the accurate torque specs for those, so hopefully your comment will help clear that up for others
Thank you very much, and I’m glad it all made sense and helped. I had to watch about 5 different videos to get all the info I needed, so hopefully this was a one stop video for everyone
Thank you so much. I’m doing this on Saturday! Question, any reason to replace anything unless it’s worn or broke? I’m opening mine up and curious what I’m going to find
It would be better to replace everything, especially if it’s an older vehicle. But if nothing else, definitely the bearings. While your that far in you might as well. But that’s totally up to you, just inspect the parts good after you clean them and look for wear
On my hub which is identical to what you are dooing there is a spline washer and a thin spacer washer together. I noticed that your spacer washer had been forced into the outer lock nut. I wondered if that occured during the original auto to manual hub replacement and if the spline washer should go on first.
If you back the pressure off your brake calipers. It makes taking it off that much easier. You just need to push it back a little bit. Then it usually comes right off with out a hammer. It may need some minor prying but not the effort required without backing the caliper piston off. The same appstore the rear drum brake ( the back brakes are a little trickier to back the shoes off but is still do able.)
Very good tip, thank you. And I’m ignoring the back brakes for the time being 😂. I’ve only replaced drums one time when I was a teenager, and don’t remember it being a very fun experience….loo
The inital tigheting of the nut you don't have to stop and check. Just run here down tight and back off and then start the torque/preload process. I run them down tight to seat bearings then back off and follow Fords recommendation on clicks out.
Hey brother, how do you get the outter race inside? I know you used the old race for the inner side but then you jumped right into packing the bearings with grease.
Excellent question, and one I have been racking my brain over for 20 minutes now trying to remember how….lol. I think I used the old bearing the same way as the inner, and that allowed me to use a long handled punch to hit against and get it tapped in. Sorry I didn’t film it. I think I had gotten so aggravated with that inner race that I was just trying to get it togethrr
I honestly cannot remember now….lol. The clip and washer should have went back in since all that was behind the new hub. Since I can’t remember for sure, I would suggest putting them back in first, and seeing if the hub fits correctly. If it doesn’t, then see if it all fits without the clip and washer. That thing apparently had automatic hubs in the beginning, and some of the old hardware was left in it when it was converted over. So those could have been pieces that needed discarded. That was an oversight in my part and I should have explained it better. But I hope this still hekps
Glad it was helpful. I watched a ton of videos trying to learn how to do this, and that was the common specs everyone was using. It’s apparently the same torque for any brand, although it may be different with newer vehicles. I also searched Google for Ford factory specs, and it said the same for that year model. Made sure I researched multiple places to get accurate numbers before I tried it and put out the video. Didn’t want to give anyone the wrong info and get them hurt
Biggest issue I see it is a FORD lol...great video reminds me of helping my Dad work on his truck back in the day. I did not know how to do this for sure! Is the inner nut like the internet?
You should see the battle going on with the short I made on this truck and mine….lol. Passionate people for sure. But I didn’t know how to do this either. Watched tons of videos trying to put the pieces together, so I hope all the pieces are in this one video for everyone. Definitely a greasy mess though! 😂
@@TheCraftyCrowShow this will come in handy for sure for many and my carpenter dad used his tailgate as a bench for decades! It had so many dents and saw cuts!
I don’t, and it’s been a while since I done this video. But I think I went to my local advance auto and got it. I’m sure any of the big parts stores would have it
Awesome video. I might have a trick for you on how to get those snap rings out/in with out a snap ring tool. I will test it and i will share it with you on your messenger Stephen. Needle nose pliers.
Great, but share it on here if you can. Hoping the comment section on this video can help with tips and tricks for everyone that might be trying to do this on their own. Could have used that myself 😂
@@TheCraftyCrowShow you are very welcome bud. I will try it in the morning and see if it works. If i recall , i used to pull them that way decades ago till i bought a set of pullers with interchangeable tips.
@@TheCraftyCrowShow that is how it always happens! It went pretty good for sure. This old fart is heading to bed. You have an awesome evening bud. Nite and God Bless you and your family.
@wade rod. Awesome question. The first nut is basically just to keep the bearings in place. The second nut is torqued higher to keep everything from backing off and moving. So if you find the bearings still seem tight, then you can just back it off a little more until they feel like they spin free. I would probably try backing off the nut and repeating the process again first though, just to be sure the bearings were seated all the way on. When you think you have it, just wiggle the hub back and fourth. If it still has play in it, the bearings are too loose
Appreciate the input, but I tried to gear this toward someone that had little to no experience working on a vehicle. Wanted to explain every step I could, the reasoning behind it, and try to inspire confidence in someone to do it themselves.
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I tell ya what. That might have been one of the BEST instructional videos I’ve seen. Hands down the best one on TH-cam for this job!
Thank you so much. That comment made my day. I’m so happy you think that, and that’s what I was hoping to accomplish. It helped that I had my learning curve on the driver side, but I tried to help people just like me that had never done something like that before. I’m really glad you feel that way, and thanks for the comment
I'm just now starting my son's truck and I've never worked on a Ford before so this was extremely helpful thank you
Your very welcome. You are the exact audience I was hoping to help with this one. Glad it helped you out
This is a great. I’m not even do this job on my truck but a video like this and a repair manual could save the weekend mechanic who know how much aggravation and time. Thank you
You’re welcome, and thank you. That was exactly my goal for this video
Love your straight forward and honest presentation; clearly, you are a teacher. Instructions given perfect for a guy new on the job without a lot of tools or experience or cash.
Thank you very much. That was exactly my goal on this one.
I found this video to be right on the spot as to how to change out thud bearings. Thank you
This was one of the clearest, most descriptive videos on this subject that I have watched. I'm currently working on this on my '89 Bronco, but the parts are basically the same. Just like you, I have probably watched a dozen videos. I wish I had seen this one first! Thanks!!!
Your very welcome. And congrats on the Bronco. My first vehicle was an 83 full size. Best vehicle I ever had, and wish I still did
Thank you! I've watched many videos as I'm getting ready to change my wheel bearings, and yours is the first video that shows how to change the locking hub parts at the same time!
Your very welcome. This was the first time I had ever changed wheel bearings or hubs. Needless to say the driver side had the learning curve and went way worse since I done it first off camera….lol. Overall it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be and was actually pretty fun, so I hope it turns out the same for you. Comment back and let us know if it was a success, and feel free to reach out to me if you run into any trouble
Great instructional video, I'd feel confident if I had to do it after watching this. Well and looking back step by step.
Thanks man. Definitely put my sweat, blood, and cussing into this one 😂
Thanks for a most helpful video. I reviewed it several times to make sure you got it back together the way it came apart. And special thanks for including the part at the end showing how to easily see that the locking hubs were working. Good job! See you in the next one. 🌙
Thank you very much, and I’m glad the video was helpful. Before doing this project I had never attempted to change wheel bearings, but it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. Hope this gave pretty clear directions for you to follow and make it more fun than work
@@TheCraftyCrowShow Yes, I've repacked quite a number and replaced some as well. I hadn't done a F150 4x4 hub since the 80's and am about to do one now. Just needed a little refresher and yours was perfect. Thanks again!
@@bobmitchell4532 Awesome! Glad I could help, and very glad to have someone experienced tell me I done it right. Makes me feel a lot better
@@TheCraftyCrowShow It makes me feel good knowing it's not a can of worms. I'm grateful there are folks like yourself willing to share what you have learned so that I can easily do it right the first time! What a world ! ✌
Great vid definitely the one stop shop video you were shooting for. Great break down on the taking apart the hub and the good attitude about it makes me dread doing this job less. This video earned a subscriber!
Thanks a lot man! I was dreading the job too since I had never done it, but it wasn’t as bad as I thought it was going to be. I’d definitely advise the gloves though, because that grease gets messy quick…..lol
Man...this would really come in handy this week! My Dodge has to have a new driver side hub as wheel almost came.off! Who knows what else lol
I had to have mine replaced a few years back, but took it to a trusted mechanic. Had I known it was this easy, I would have just done it myself. But that’s exactly what happened to Jon with this truck. I’m so grateful it didn’t come off on him. Glad you made it without getting hurt too
Great video, thank you very much. Also love your attitude towards comments
Thanks man. Hope it helped
Don’t strike your seals with the metal strike face of your hammer. Use the handle to tap it in or drive it in with a wooden dowel or block. Thanks for the video. Very informative.
Old Chevys used to be easy and cheap. Remember watching my dad do it. Now new model stuff gotta replace the whole hub.
I had never done it or seen it done. Good thing I had Kathy’s dad to bounce stuff off, but learned a lot off TH-cam videos. Just was trying to make a better video than the ones I seen
Really good video helped me a lot doing my wheel bearing on my bronco
Don’t have a link handy but with the 96 trucks the inner nut gets torqued to 50 lb/ft and backed off 45 degrees then the lock washer and lock nut go on and gets torqued to 150 lb/ft. Also, with the grease it’s supposed to be moly-ep, though I haven’t had any issues running the red stuff in my 96 bronco over the past two years. just changed over the passenger side to moly grease today though.
Great video !!
Thank you, and thanks for sharing that great info. It was pretty hard trying to find the accurate torque specs for those, so hopefully your comment will help clear that up for others
great video though, you have no idea how much you've helped!!!!!!
Thank you, and I’m really glad I could help. Seemed like a big project when I started, but ended up being a lot easier than I thought
Honestly a fantastic tutorial! Thank you very much!
Thank you very much, and I’m glad it all made sense and helped. I had to watch about 5 different videos to get all the info I needed, so hopefully this was a one stop video for everyone
Great job man I will be using this video soon thanks man
Thanks man, and I’m really glad it was helpful for you. That was the goal. And it wasn’t a bad job, just greasy….lol
Thankyou So much,! I have a 1996 an it needs the same. 🍀
Glad I could help
Thank you so much. I’m doing this on Saturday! Question, any reason to replace anything unless it’s worn or broke? I’m opening mine up and curious what I’m going to find
It would be better to replace everything, especially if it’s an older vehicle. But if nothing else, definitely the bearings. While your that far in you might as well. But that’s totally up to you, just inspect the parts good after you clean them and look for wear
Perfect video. Many thanks boss god bless
Thank you very much. Hope it helped
Nice watch… And nice watch!!
Thanks man, nice name. And spelled correctly, with the “ph” 👍
Great video sir I appreciate your video
Thank you. Hope it helped and answered any questions you might have had
Thank you!!
On my hub which is identical to what you are dooing there is a spline washer and a thin spacer washer together. I noticed that your spacer washer had been forced into the outer lock nut. I wondered if that occured during the original auto to manual hub replacement and if the spline washer should go on first.
You did a good job and thank you
Thanks man, and your welcome. Hope it helped
If the retaining ring is not lined up with the pin on the inter nut flip the retaining ring over. This will give you half a hole adjustment.
I didn’t know that. Very useful
Tip right there!
If you back the pressure off your brake calipers. It makes taking it off that much easier. You just need to push it back a little bit. Then it usually comes right off with out a hammer. It may need some minor prying but not the effort required without backing the caliper piston off. The same appstore the rear drum brake ( the back brakes are a little trickier to back the shoes off but is still do able.)
Very good tip, thank you. And I’m ignoring the back brakes for the time being 😂. I’ve only replaced drums one time when I was a teenager, and don’t remember it being a very fun experience….loo
Very good content 👌👏
Thanks man. My first auto maintenance video, and I know how some people can be. Hope it helps someone, and hope I didn’t do anything wrong….lol
@@TheCraftyCrowShow no you did great that's how I do it..
@@DudesWithWrenches thanks. That’s a really good thing for me to know. Don’t want to kill my kid over ignorance
Thanks
Great video man!
Thanks man, I appreciate it
The inital tigheting of the nut you don't have to stop and check. Just run here down tight and back off and then start the torque/preload process. I run them down tight to seat bearings then back off and follow Fords recommendation on clicks out.
Great video
Thanks man. Hope it helps someone out
Thank you man ❤
Your welcome
Hey brother, how do you get the outter race inside? I know you used the old race for the inner side but then you jumped right into packing the bearings with grease.
Excellent question, and one I have been racking my brain over for 20 minutes now trying to remember how….lol. I think I used the old bearing the same way as the inner, and that allowed me to use a long handled punch to hit against and get it tapped in. Sorry I didn’t film it. I think I had gotten so aggravated with that inner race that I was just trying to get it togethrr
Like your watch
Thanks man. Found it on sale one time and couldn’t resist.
what about the "C" clip, and the "spline washer" does the new hub with the final horseshoe washer make up for those other parts
I honestly cannot remember now….lol. The clip and washer should have went back in since all that was behind the new hub. Since I can’t remember for sure, I would suggest putting them back in first, and seeing if the hub fits correctly. If it doesn’t, then see if it all fits without the clip and washer. That thing apparently had automatic hubs in the beginning, and some of the old hardware was left in it when it was converted over. So those could have been pieces that needed discarded. That was an oversight in my part and I should have explained it better. But I hope this still hekps
Great video & very helpful! Where did you get the torque specs from?
Glad it was helpful. I watched a ton of videos trying to learn how to do this, and that was the common specs everyone was using. It’s apparently the same torque for any brand, although it may be different with newer vehicles. I also searched Google for Ford factory specs, and it said the same for that year model. Made sure I researched multiple places to get accurate numbers before I tried it and put out the video. Didn’t want to give anyone the wrong info and get them hurt
Tap it *lightly* with your hammer... **WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM WHAM** ❤❤
😂😂😂. You should see what I use when I’m mad at it
Biggest issue I see it is a FORD lol...great video reminds me of helping my Dad work on his truck back in the day. I did not know how to do this for sure! Is the inner nut like the internet?
You should see the battle going on with the short I made on this truck and mine….lol. Passionate people for sure. But I didn’t know how to do this either. Watched tons of videos trying to put the pieces together, so I hope all the pieces are in this one video for everyone. Definitely a greasy mess though! 😂
@@TheCraftyCrowShow this will come in handy for sure for many and my carpenter dad used his tailgate as a bench for decades! It had so many dents and saw cuts!
@@BrainstormSnackAttack got a saw cut in the tailgate on my dodge from a wandering skil saw myself 😂
First On Race Day!
Anyone know if this is the same process for the 8 lug hub?
Do you have the link to the nut socket
I don’t, and it’s been a while since I done this video. But I think I went to my local advance auto and got it. I’m sure any of the big parts stores would have it
Awesome video. I might have a trick for you on how to get those snap rings out/in with out a snap ring tool. I will test it and i will share it with you on your messenger Stephen. Needle nose pliers.
Great, but share it on here if you can. Hoping the comment section on this video can help with tips and tricks for everyone that might be trying to do this on their own. Could have used that myself 😂
@@TheCraftyCrowShow you are very welcome bud. I will try it in the morning and see if it works. If i recall , i used to pull them that way decades ago till i bought a set of pullers with interchangeable tips.
@@jeffjackson5331 I was amazed that one went on as easy as it did, especially on camera. The other side was a nightmare….lol
@@TheCraftyCrowShow that is how it always happens! It went pretty good for sure. This old fart is heading to bed. You have an awesome evening bud. Nite and God Bless you and your family.
Me too man. Goodnight and God bless you and your family too
what happens if it still has resistance after you torqued it down and and backed it off 90deg
@wade rod. Awesome question. The first nut is basically just to keep the bearings in place. The second nut is torqued higher to keep everything from backing off and moving. So if you find the bearings still seem tight, then you can just back it off a little more until they feel like they spin free. I would probably try backing off the nut and repeating the process again first though, just to be sure the bearings were seated all the way on. When you think you have it, just wiggle the hub back and fourth. If it still has play in it, the bearings are too loose
@@TheCraftyCrowShow sure thing
Self locking hubs
Too much talking about non relevant issues
Appreciate the input, but I tried to gear this toward someone that had little to no experience working on a vehicle. Wanted to explain every step I could, the reasoning behind it, and try to inspire confidence in someone to do it themselves.