We appreciate that! We try to be as thorough as possible with our install videos. If you ever have any questions about anything you see in the videos, feel free to reach out to our customer support team directly through phone or email. We want to help as much as we can :)
Thank you, Flyin’ Miata, for this video of installing new springs and shocks. I was able to take this project on and am declaring it a success on my NC1. The only thing that this video needs (and I really had an issue with on the rear of my car) is getting those bushings moving before torquing everything down at ride height. I ended up jacking each corner to ride height after using a screwdriver on the loosened bushings to make sure they were free. I know you have a video about why you have to torque at ride height to avoid binding the bushings, but a how-to video on the actual process sure would be a big help for those of us who haven’t turned a lot of wrenches. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and the suggestion! We do get a lot of questions about reindexing suspension bushings so, I'll pass this up the ladder to see if we can get it on the schedule.
Would you consider making a new video, maybe FM Suspension Part 4 - Proper Bushing Tightening Procedure showing the best way to torque all bushings to spec with the vehicle weighted? I've heard of many different ways to do this, but I would really appreciate seeing the procedure you use at Flyin' Miata. Thanks kindly. Enjoy your videos!
Great video. I'm just in the process of changing my springs and shocks, although I'm only replacing them with standard sets, the process remains the same. I've watched other videos where they have separated the lower balljoint and others where they've just manhandled them (I'm talking about the rear) out. I had already come to the conclusion that surly the best way would be to disconnect the lower bar from its inboard. This is the 1st video that I've seen doing it this way. Thank you, and well done for this Great upload 👍
This seems like the simplest way to swap out the rear suspension, I'll be following this to install Ohlins next week, hopefully it's not too hard on jack stands. Thanks!
Your video says 10ft-lbs for the top nut on the shock, but the the FM installation instrutction says 37 ft-lbs, the koni manual that came with the shock also says 37 ft-lbs. Which one is it?
Did you ever record a video where you put the car on the Paco Motorsports hub stands and tighten the bushings? Also, when you remove that rear control arm to make remove for removing/installing the rear shocks, what did you do to record where the eccentric is set, so you don’t mess up the alignment?
I don't believe we've ever shot that video. It's a fairly straightforward process. As for the alignment - due to the ride height change, we strongly recommend an alignment after installing our Stage 1 kit.
This video will be my go to, but I noticed you didn't say any of the torque values when re tightening all these nuts. Hopefully it was included in the PDF guide
We should have all the ultra-specifics in the written instructions, but please reach out to our customer support team directly if you can't find something you need. Thanks!
I'm a big fan. Very useful stuff. But, since you're selling a kit with the expectation that your customers will be following your instructions and installing the kits themselves, this would be more useful and applicable to the masses if you used the tools that are available to the average guy. For example, most guys don't have a spring compressing station. Instead they are using the spring compressors they've borrowed or rented from AutoZone. How does that change the process? Also, most guys don't have the hub mounts you mentioned at the very end. Instead they, will be trying to figure out a way to lower the car back on its wheels and tires while still leaving enough room to crawl under the car and tighten all the lose nuts and bolts. Finally, are your suggested alignment specs included in the written instructions or on your website or should we just go back with the stock alignment numbers? Again, very good work and I really appreciate your hard work on this stuff.
Using a different spring compressor doesn't really change the process of installation other than it might be a little different to use. If you don't have hub stands, you can either lift one corner at a time using a jack under the control arm or you can put the car on ramps. Alignment settings are included both in the instructions and on our website.
@@FlyinMiataVideo im attempting this job with rented spring compressors from autozone like Carl mentioned and the rentals are not long enough to compress the top hat against the perch. They only can grab spring + perch, or spring + tophat, so I had to have my shocks assembled by a local shop on a rig like yours.
Thanks a lot for this. Is part of the $1200 ish pack that has shocks, springs and sway bars? That seems like the best overall thing I can find - you've matched it all up. If so, I will be over in the US in August to buy these. Cheers John
The price varies a little bit depending on the generation, but the shocks in this video are the same as what is included in our NC stage 2 kit comes: KONI yellow shocks, sway bars with bushings, and our FM springs. www.flyinmiata.com/nc-stage-2-koni-suspension-kit.html Let us know if you have any other questions!
I prefer these longer videos where you don't edit or speed things up. Much more informative than the 5 minute install sped up videos. Thank You
We appreciate that! We try to be as thorough as possible with our install videos. If you ever have any questions about anything you see in the videos, feel free to reach out to our customer support team directly through phone or email. We want to help as much as we can :)
Thank you, Flyin’ Miata, for this video of installing new springs and shocks. I was able to take this project on and am declaring it a success on my NC1. The only thing that this video needs (and I really had an issue with on the rear of my car) is getting those bushings moving before torquing everything down at ride height. I ended up jacking each corner to ride height after using a screwdriver on the loosened bushings to make sure they were free. I know you have a video about why you have to torque at ride height to avoid binding the bushings, but a how-to video on the actual process sure would be a big help for those of us who haven’t turned a lot of wrenches. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and the suggestion! We do get a lot of questions about reindexing suspension bushings so, I'll pass this up the ladder to see if we can get it on the schedule.
Really needing that followup video on how to torque the bushings under load. Got a lifted miata rn
Would you consider making a new video, maybe FM Suspension Part 4 - Proper Bushing Tightening Procedure showing the best way to torque all bushings to spec with the vehicle weighted? I've heard of many different ways to do this, but I would really appreciate seeing the procedure you use at Flyin' Miata. Thanks kindly. Enjoy your videos!
Thanks for the suggestion, we'll add it to the list!
I would also like to see that.
@@FlyinMiataVideohowdy - did you ever make the proposed NC video for the bushing tightening sequence with torque specs? Great work!
@flyinmiatavideo Would like to see the bushing video!
Great video. I'm just in the process of changing my springs and shocks, although I'm only replacing them with standard sets, the process remains the same. I've watched other videos where they have separated the lower balljoint and others where they've just manhandled them (I'm talking about the rear) out. I had already come to the conclusion that surly the best way would be to disconnect the lower bar from its inboard. This is the 1st video that I've seen doing it this way. Thank you, and well done for this Great upload 👍
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
is there not a need to tighten everything to torque specs when doing this work?
Not on a boat. It's gonna be in the water anyway.
This seems like the simplest way to swap out the rear suspension, I'll be following this to install Ohlins next week, hopefully it's not too hard on jack stands. Thanks!
Great video, I have an NC so this was excellent for me.
Glad we could help!
Great video Eric! After watching this I was able to change the springs out in my Coilovers.
Your video says 10ft-lbs for the top nut on the shock, but the the FM installation instrutction says 37 ft-lbs, the koni manual that came with the shock also says 37 ft-lbs. Which one is it?
The video is just meant to be a guide, and Eric may have misspoken. Please follow all written instructions. The 37 lb ft is correct.
Did you ever record a video where you put the car on the Paco Motorsports hub stands and tighten the bushings? Also, when you remove that rear control arm to make remove for removing/installing the rear shocks, what did you do to record where the eccentric is set, so you don’t mess up the alignment?
I don't believe we've ever shot that video. It's a fairly straightforward process.
As for the alignment - due to the ride height change, we strongly recommend an alignment after installing our Stage 1 kit.
What are the lines below the wipers on firewall
You're probably referring to AC lines.
This video will be my go to, but I noticed you didn't say any of the torque values when re tightening all these nuts. Hopefully it was included in the PDF guide
We should have all the ultra-specifics in the written instructions, but please reach out to our customer support team directly if you can't find something you need. Thanks!
Thanks for the tutorial, very helpful
You're welcome!
I didn't hear any torque values given for the various nuts and bolts.
Thanks a lot! This really helps, you guys are awesome.
I'm a big fan. Very useful stuff. But, since you're selling a kit with the expectation that your customers will be following your instructions and installing the kits themselves, this would be more useful and applicable to the masses if you used the tools that are available to the average guy. For example, most guys don't have a spring compressing station. Instead they are using the spring compressors they've borrowed or rented from AutoZone. How does that change the process? Also, most guys don't have the hub mounts you mentioned at the very end. Instead they, will be trying to figure out a way to lower the car back on its wheels and tires while still leaving enough room to crawl under the car and tighten all the lose nuts and bolts. Finally, are your suggested alignment specs included in the written instructions or on your website or should we just go back with the stock alignment numbers? Again, very good work and I really appreciate your hard work on this stuff.
Using a different spring compressor doesn't really change the process of installation other than it might be a little different to use.
If you don't have hub stands, you can either lift one corner at a time using a jack under the control arm or you can put the car on ramps.
Alignment settings are included both in the instructions and on our website.
@@FlyinMiataVideo im attempting this job with rented spring compressors from autozone like Carl mentioned and the rentals are not long enough to compress the top hat against the perch. They only can grab spring + perch, or spring + tophat, so I had to have my shocks assembled by a local shop on a rig like yours.
Torque specs?
Great video - thank you.
I wish you had addressed the rear link adjustments.
If you still have questions, please email our support team and we'll do our best to provide an answer! (support@flyinmiata.com)
Thanks a lot for this. Is part of the $1200 ish pack that has shocks, springs and sway bars? That seems like the best overall thing I can find - you've matched it all up. If so, I will be over in the US in August to buy these. Cheers John
The price varies a little bit depending on the generation, but the shocks in this video are the same as what is included in our NC stage 2 kit comes: KONI yellow shocks, sway bars with bushings, and our FM springs.
www.flyinmiata.com/nc-stage-2-koni-suspension-kit.html
Let us know if you have any other questions!
@@FlyinMiataVideo curious why you chose the Koni yellows for the stage 2 rather than the Koni Sports?
Thanks
@@Nasonix2 Koni yellows are the Koni Sport. It's a common term for them because, well, they're yellow :)
Great informative video. Thanks.
How long do the konis last???
A very long time. They have a lifetime warranty and very rarely need it.
anyone else seeing "Part 2" as a private video?
You ruined it told of supersecret bolt. You would probably tell me rhe ending of Titanic