Finally a video that explains everything so well! Thank you! Will be sticking to shock/spring kit and replacing top mounts as well instead of budget $1k coilovers
Hands down the best informational break down between coilovers vs shocks and struts! After going through dozens of videos and articles on what is best for my needs, I'm just glad I found this video as it resolved my inquiries. Thank you for the no nonsense direct, clear pros and cons approach, Good-Win Racing!
Thank you very much!! A lot of things are much clear now. I went with the RS springs along with the adjustable height koni yellows. My ND is a 80 % street, 20 % trackday fun car. I’m also not expert at all. I’ve got the nicest setup I can get advantage of.
I have been a car nut working on my own cars since the late 70's. One of the things that really impress me about Goodwin is that you never get the hard sell on the higher priced items. It is refreshing to hear a company say that perhaps you don't need our most expensive part and that the cheaper option may in fact be the best for you and your car. That being said I find the ride a little harsh with my Koni shocks and Progress Springs....I found the Roadster springs to be even more harsh....maybe I need the Ohlins after all?
Tires and pressure setting? Assuming Koni set to soft try a bit less tire pressure, like 26psi instead of 28psi. Can also try taller tire next time for more rubber between you in the road, 215/45 on stock wheels rides a lot softer than stock 205/45. To really get more rubber cushion consider a drop to lighter 16 inch wheel with 205/50 tire.
thanks Brian, for some reason I find the shocks a little better when they are set more on the stiff side. Maybe that is because I am only adjusting the rebound if I understand the Koni settings correctly? I did try slightly less pressure in the tires but could go a little lower. I like my BBS wheels too much to switch to 16". When I had the Roadster sport springs I found them very stiff on bumps and noticed quite an improvement when I installed the door bushings. @@briangoodwin2862
Fantastic detail and so informative. I have a 159,000 mile NC on I believe original suspension. Owned for 4 months 5k miles and use it daily on the road and have been considering an upgrade: I was thinking the budget coil over was the way to go but now realise my error. Looks like upgraded shock initially and keep factory springs and then maybe change the springs if needed. I’m in the UK so probably will end up buying locally but your information is amazing. Thank you 👍🏻
Thank you so much Ryan for making all these videos. I am very new to cars and it is really helpful to have these videos for people like me who don't really know what everyone already does about NC miatas and even cars in general. You have no idea how much these really help someone like me feel slightly more belonged at a car meet talking to other people.
We have an ND on Konis and love it especially on the street. It just takes the edge off of things and is much nicer to drive around if you have roads with expansion joints etc. The Bilsteins are definitely a little more, I'm not sure how to put it, frantic at low speeds? Not awful by any means but the Konis were well worth it. I like the rebuildability and revalvability of Bilsteins more and I think monos last longer and are more consistent but for a daily driver I would definitely choose Konis.
Explains it perfectly, thanks so much! Was previously confused between an adjustable strut and a coilover, looked the same to me, until you showed the difference. Thank you!
really educational and super helpful. thank you. if I favor ride quality as my daily driver but want to do autocross 3-4 times a year and a track day 1-2 times a year (I'm an amateur so no racing stuff, just an occasional weekend warrior), it sounds like good shocks and springs are the way to go...not coilovers.
Great video on coilovers vs shocks. Had a 90, 92 autocross car. Later a 93le with softer bumpstops, and sways. Really fun cars. Currently have a mustang bullitt with magnaride and ford racing suspension. Actually handles well for a heavy car. I may be in the market for an nd soon. Want to do the ohlins and exhaust. I will look up you up later. Thanks for all the good info.
Like the explanation, but why did you have the spring perch upside-down on the Koni? Might confuse someone dropping in to watch before they head off to install their own.
Not bad video. Ohlins doesn't support the 2017 BMW x3 xDrive35i. I was told the Bilstein 12 Pro kit. My car has EDC. Is Bilstein B6 compatible with Damptronic? What is the ultimate choice for supple ride quality and Autocross on wknds?
OK, so what would be the price range of quality coilovers since $1000 is considered to be budget or low end, what amount of money would put u in that top tier or upper echelon of coilovers?
Great information, I have a 2004 Mustang gt that I'm going to install coilovers looking for a Smoot ride what spring rate coilovers do you suggest and I'm not looking for a budget coilovers and not very expensive?
A track is much smoother and better maintained than city streets or freeways. I been a firm believer of good quality springs good shocks vs budget coilovers. Also springs will last the lifetime of the car. Good shocks will last you 60k miles. Budget coilovers are not going to last as long. Also more moving parts is more maintenance and more possibly for failure somewhere.
Generally, the longest-lasting damper will be medium-budget. For example, a set of Konis come with a lifetime warranty, whereas something from Fox or Öhlins will usually only be guaranteed for a couple years. At the mid-range, you're using simple valving at very high quality, and seals that are designed to seal amazingly, at the cost of higher sticktion. Up at the high end, you start to see things like bending shims and check valves in the valving, and seals that prioritize low friction over maximum-pucker longevity. So for example, when I was still a kid, my dad bought a set of shocks for a vintage dirt bike from Progessive Suspension. 1/3rd the price of the good stuff. On the first ride, the seals were so tight it took the bike about 5 whole seconds to rebound. It's been over 20 years, and those shocks are still mint. 15 years ago, I acquired a similar-era bike with factory Öhlins. It's in the garage awaiting the THIRD shock rebuild during my ownership. The Öhlins are great units, still supported today with continually updated parts, but there is a maintenance cost associated with greatness. Obviously though, true garbage is the worst. The El Cheapo parts store shocks I put on my Dakota a couple years ago are dead-dead after like 20k miles.
The only concern that I have is ride quality. On my 1966 Impala the coilovers seem like they may be a harsher ride compared to the factory configuration or am I wrong?
Ride quality 100% comes down to the design choices made in spring rate and damper valving. Cheap coilovers tend to be stiff because stiff feels sporty and costs nothing. A quality setup will have a well-mated spring and damper so neither is out-running the other. Also, high quality dampers have a flatter response curve. So for example, you go over some railroad tracks, causing a rapid jolt. A cheap damper typically has fixed holes for oil to flow through, so it can be soft to absorb that impact but will then be too soft to offer good body control. Or, the cheap damper can be stiff to give good sporty control, but that valving makes the suspension feel like solid steel beams on that sharp hit. An expensive damper will have more sophisticated valving with actual valves, bypasses, and a bunch of mysterious magic, allowing it to be compliant AND sporty. High quality shocks give your car a bit of dirt bike mojo for taking bumps.
Some will, some won't. Pure street use with mild tires doesn't need more. Customers with much more grip and doing track or autocross will still add sways.
Great info. I'm not a car guy, so could you help me with deciding on the best smooth ride I can find for my 92 mx-5 miata. I have after market wheels and tires 205/50/15. I think the suspension has only been changed out once. I have around 200k on the car. Basic couple of miles city then I get up on the freeway for about 10 miles so round trip 25 to 30 miles 5 days a week. I just wanting a smoother ride. PLS help.
I have a question i have a land rover evoque I have to replace the shock do I buy bc coilovers or shock they are the same price bc coilovers a little bit less do y buy oem or coilovers I want regular height
Depends on year and package, see Progress Spring Product Descriptions on our site for your year wherein we also mention the stock rates for that application for comparison.
I have the 30mm eibach lowering springs with the OEM bilstein shocks. I need to replace the shocks as they all make a knocking noise. I was looking at the Koni's srt sport I believe? The non adjustable ones. I don't do track days, just the odd bend here and there. What would you recommend? I never had an adjustable shock.
We prefer our KONI SPORT with any upgraded lowering spring so you can dial the damping for best match with the spring rates. The SRT will certainly work, but all the same labor without the ability to adjust the damping to match the springs and without the ability to dial balance front to rear that the KONI SPORT gives.
Did they make that knocking noise right away? I ask because i have progress lowering springs with my OEM Bilsteins and so far they are great. Hoping they last awhile.
@@FilixYerrrr how many miles do they last..I hav 2011 sport mx5 .I get thumps on my rear side as I go over dips in roads...I hav 41k on it..what do u recommend I replace..daily driver
@@FilixYerrrr i am thinking to install progressive eibah springs too on my ND2 RF but I am afraid because on forums someone says they dont work well with OEM bilstein. Please help
Ryan was very careful to say that budget coilovers may have drawbacks compared to higher cost coilovers (like Ohlins) or more traditional shocks and lowering springs. Remember he said that a SET of $1k budget coilovers means that each coilover (spring, shock, bump stop, top mount) is designed to meet a $250 retail price. Well, traditional shocks and lowering springs, along with new bump stops, are in a similar price range. So if a traditional shock can be designed for that price point, a properly designed budget coilover can be a suitable solution. Another thing…GWR sells products to fit different budgets, but they do not sell CRAP! In order for them to sell budget coilover systems, these systems need to meet GWR’s standards. So it’s safe to say that any coilover system you buy from GWR, whether at the bottom of the budget coilover price, or at the top of the premium coilover price, it will be a quality product that GWR approves, and supports.
@@RbNetEngr that's a great point.. I've been looking at the coil over market and you can get sets for around $400 - so that's 1600 gone missing. OK Ohlins have better quality springs - and much better quality valving and big PR expenses - but they're still 5 x the price
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally a video that explains everything so well! Thank you!
Will be sticking to shock/spring kit and replacing top mounts as well instead of budget $1k coilovers
Great breakdown, would appreciate if you could increase mic volume next time.
The volume is perfect for me.
Not for me. Hearing loss here
Maybe you need to increase your phone volume…
Fine for me
Hands down the best informational break down between coilovers vs shocks and struts! After going through dozens of videos and articles on what is best for my needs, I'm just glad I found this video as it resolved my inquiries. Thank you for the no nonsense direct, clear pros and cons approach, Good-Win Racing!
This is the best video I've found to explain this. I definitely do not want coilovers after watching this video.
Thank you very much!! A lot of things are much clear now. I went with the RS springs along with the adjustable height koni yellows. My ND is a 80 % street, 20 % trackday fun car. I’m also not expert at all. I’ve got the nicest setup I can get advantage of.
The best explanation of suspension I’ve heard yet!!! Thanks so much!!
I have been a car nut working on my own cars since the late 70's. One of the things that really impress me about Goodwin is that you never get the hard sell on the higher priced items. It is refreshing to hear a company say that perhaps you don't need our most expensive part and that the cheaper option may in fact be the best for you and your car. That being said I find the ride a little harsh with my Koni shocks and Progress Springs....I found the Roadster springs to be even more harsh....maybe I need the Ohlins after all?
Tires and pressure setting? Assuming Koni set to soft try a bit less tire pressure, like 26psi instead of 28psi. Can also try taller tire next time for more rubber between you in the road, 215/45 on stock wheels rides a lot softer than stock 205/45. To really get more rubber cushion consider a drop to lighter 16 inch wheel with 205/50 tire.
thanks Brian, for some reason I find the shocks a little better when they are set more on the stiff side. Maybe that is because I am only adjusting the rebound if I understand the Koni settings correctly? I did try slightly less pressure in the tires but could go a little lower. I like my BBS wheels too much to switch to 16". When I had the Roadster sport springs I found them very stiff on bumps and noticed quite an improvement when I installed the door bushings. @@briangoodwin2862
You answered my questions in the first three minutes and other videos used too much jargon. Well done. Thank you.
This is exactly the video I needed to see before making choices on direction for my suspension.
Fantastic detail and so informative. I have a 159,000 mile NC on I believe original suspension. Owned for 4 months 5k miles and use it daily on the road and have been considering an upgrade: I was thinking the budget coil over was the way to go but now realise my error. Looks like upgraded shock initially and keep factory springs and then maybe change the springs if needed. I’m in the UK so probably will end up buying locally but your information is amazing. Thank you 👍🏻
#metoo - I've just got an 80000k mile NC - how did it work out for you Lee
Thank you so much Ryan for making all these videos. I am very new to cars and it is really helpful to have these videos for people like me who don't really know what everyone already does about NC miatas and even cars in general. You have no idea how much these really help someone like me feel slightly more belonged at a car meet talking to other people.
I’m leaning toward the Koni shocks and progressive lowering springs.
We have an ND on Konis and love it especially on the street. It just takes the edge off of things and is much nicer to drive around if you have roads with expansion joints etc. The Bilsteins are definitely a little more, I'm not sure how to put it, frantic at low speeds? Not awful by any means but the Konis were well worth it. I like the rebuildability and revalvability of Bilsteins more and I think monos last longer and are more consistent but for a daily driver I would definitely choose Konis.
Explains it perfectly, thanks so much! Was previously confused between an adjustable strut and a coilover, looked the same to me, until you showed the difference. Thank you!
really educational and super helpful. thank you. if I favor ride quality as my daily driver but want to do autocross 3-4 times a year and a track day 1-2 times a year (I'm an amateur so no racing stuff, just an occasional weekend warrior), it sounds like good shocks and springs are the way to go...not coilovers.
The best video regarding a detailed explanation of the suspension. Thanks
Excellent break down for the ND platform.
This is super helpful. Brain is really good at answering questions on the spider and Miata forums. Ryan is good with the videos.
Great video on coilovers vs shocks. Had a 90, 92 autocross car. Later a 93le with softer bumpstops, and sways. Really fun cars.
Currently have a mustang bullitt with magnaride and ford racing suspension. Actually handles well for a heavy car. I may be in the market for an nd soon. Want to do the ohlins and exhaust. I will look up you up later.
Thanks for all the good info.
great video... very good info laid out to where a newbie to suspension like me can understand... thank u! & god bless
Looks like I don’t want coil overs! Excellent video!
Best video about coilovers and springs
Thanks for going into detail! I was gonna buy shocks....but i might just go for coilovers...i wanna drop my car a few inches
I have Öhlins on my NC here in Sweden
Just bought an ND and now I'm going to save up for ohlins
No idea Street on road
But use in my banshee over 15year more smooth must be know how to adj.C.&R dam. 🤞
Great video, I placed my order today for new shocks
Like the explanation, but why did you have the spring perch upside-down on the Koni? Might confuse someone dropping in to watch before they head off to install their own.
Fantastic video helping with many of the questions I had
Not bad video. Ohlins doesn't support the 2017 BMW x3 xDrive35i.
I was told the Bilstein 12 Pro kit.
My car has EDC.
Is Bilstein B6 compatible with Damptronic?
What is the ultimate choice for supple ride quality and Autocross on wknds?
OK, so what would be the price range of quality coilovers since $1000 is considered to be budget or low end, what amount of money would put u in that top tier or upper echelon of coilovers?
That starts with the Ohlins at a bit over two grand.
If already have Eibach lowering Springs on a Tesla Model 3 Performance, would you suggest adding Tein shocks or Tein Coilovers?
yeah i notice the adjusting tool rounds off ther adjusta nuts and they commonly loosen themselves up after time or whatever then your sitting uneven
Great information, I have a 2004 Mustang gt that I'm going to install coilovers looking for a Smoot ride what spring rate coilovers do you suggest and I'm not looking for a budget coilovers and not very expensive?
You speak english well! 😆 Greatings from Hungary!
A track is much smoother and better maintained than city streets or freeways. I been a firm believer of good quality springs good shocks vs budget coilovers. Also springs will last the lifetime of the car. Good shocks will last you 60k miles. Budget coilovers are not going to last as long. Also more moving parts is more maintenance and more possibly for failure somewhere.
Generally, the longest-lasting damper will be medium-budget. For example, a set of Konis come with a lifetime warranty, whereas something from Fox or Öhlins will usually only be guaranteed for a couple years. At the mid-range, you're using simple valving at very high quality, and seals that are designed to seal amazingly, at the cost of higher sticktion. Up at the high end, you start to see things like bending shims and check valves in the valving, and seals that prioritize low friction over maximum-pucker longevity.
So for example, when I was still a kid, my dad bought a set of shocks for a vintage dirt bike from Progessive Suspension. 1/3rd the price of the good stuff. On the first ride, the seals were so tight it took the bike about 5 whole seconds to rebound. It's been over 20 years, and those shocks are still mint. 15 years ago, I acquired a similar-era bike with factory Öhlins. It's in the garage awaiting the THIRD shock rebuild during my ownership. The Öhlins are great units, still supported today with continually updated parts, but there is a maintenance cost associated with greatness.
Obviously though, true garbage is the worst. The El Cheapo parts store shocks I put on my Dakota a couple years ago are dead-dead after like 20k miles.
The only concern that I have is ride quality. On my 1966 Impala the coilovers seem like they may be a harsher ride compared to the factory configuration or am I wrong?
Ride quality 100% comes down to the design choices made in spring rate and damper valving. Cheap coilovers tend to be stiff because stiff feels sporty and costs nothing. A quality setup will have a well-mated spring and damper so neither is out-running the other.
Also, high quality dampers have a flatter response curve. So for example, you go over some railroad tracks, causing a rapid jolt. A cheap damper typically has fixed holes for oil to flow through, so it can be soft to absorb that impact but will then be too soft to offer good body control. Or, the cheap damper can be stiff to give good sporty control, but that valving makes the suspension feel like solid steel beams on that sharp hit. An expensive damper will have more sophisticated valving with actual valves, bypasses, and a bunch of mysterious magic, allowing it to be compliant AND sporty. High quality shocks give your car a bit of dirt bike mojo for taking bumps.
Thanks for making this video, very helpful!
Do you need sway bars with the Ohlins on an ND2 2023 club ( BBS / BREMBO ) ?
Some will, some won't. Pure street use with mild tires doesn't need more. Customers with much more grip and doing track or autocross will still add sways.
Do you rate the suspension in cps or lbs per inch what spring rates for street konis with full suspension travel.
Rocky.. needs to mention the progressive springs you have that are made by progress springs else it sounds funny.
Great video! Very informative.
Do I need camber kit with spings that lower oem ones of 40mm for an Audi a3 2007 please? Thanks
Informative as always.
Great info. I'm not a car guy, so could you help me with deciding on the best smooth ride I can find for my 92 mx-5 miata. I have after market wheels and tires 205/50/15. I think the suspension has only been changed out once. I have around 200k on the car. Basic couple of miles city then I get up on the freeway for about 10 miles so round trip 25 to 30 miles 5 days a week. I just wanting a smoother ride. PLS help.
Max smooth would be fresh set of KONI Sport shocks, our comfort bumpstops on those, and back to 14 inch wheels.
@@briangoodwin2862 Ok thanks. Wife likes the look of the 15's, will try the rest though. Tks again.
Sooo what's the difference between true coilovers and regular coilovers
mostly cost!
I have a question i have a land rover evoque I have to replace the shock do I buy bc coilovers or shock they are the same price bc coilovers a little bit less do y buy oem or coilovers I want regular height
Just get uprated shocks. You will feel a vast improvement. Coilovers are to firm and you would lose your spring travel length.
@@TheTruth-ht7qm where I can find them?
@@juanrivas7143 I would search the Koni or Bilstein websites.
what are these called the brand
What is the stock spring rate on the Mazda MX5?
Depends on year and package, see Progress Spring Product Descriptions on our site for your year wherein we also mention the stock rates for that application for comparison.
I have the 30mm eibach lowering springs with the OEM bilstein shocks. I need to replace the shocks as they all make a knocking noise. I was looking at the Koni's srt sport I believe? The non adjustable ones. I don't do track days, just the odd bend here and there. What would you recommend? I never had an adjustable shock.
We prefer our KONI SPORT with any upgraded lowering spring so you can dial the damping for best match with the spring rates. The SRT will certainly work, but all the same labor without the ability to adjust the damping to match the springs and without the ability to dial balance front to rear that the KONI SPORT gives.
Did they make that knocking noise right away? I ask because i have progress lowering springs with my OEM Bilsteins and so far they are great. Hoping they last awhile.
@@FilixYerrrr how many miles do they last..I hav 2011 sport mx5 .I get thumps on my rear side as I go over dips in roads...I hav 41k on it..what do u recommend I replace..daily driver
@@FilixYerrrr i am thinking to install progressive eibah springs too on my ND2 RF but I am afraid because on forums someone says they dont work well with OEM bilstein. Please help
@@lucianolucidi8624 2 years later and I am still rocking them! Honestly it's a comfortable ride and less body roll (big plus). I'd recommend it.
This video is not exactly a ringing endorsement for the MeisterR coilovers I was considering ordering. lol
Cheap coilovers they mean ebay specials, MeisterR are not bad
Ryan was very careful to say that budget coilovers may have drawbacks compared to higher cost coilovers (like Ohlins) or more traditional shocks and lowering springs. Remember he said that a SET of $1k budget coilovers means that each coilover (spring, shock, bump stop, top mount) is designed to meet a $250 retail price. Well, traditional shocks and lowering springs, along with new bump stops, are in a similar price range. So if a traditional shock can be designed for that price point, a properly designed budget coilover can be a suitable solution.
Another thing…GWR sells products to fit different budgets, but they do not sell CRAP! In order for them to sell budget coilover systems, these systems need to meet GWR’s standards. So it’s safe to say that any coilover system you buy from GWR, whether at the bottom of the budget coilover price, or at the top of the premium coilover price, it will be a quality product that GWR approves, and supports.
@@RbNetEngr that's a great point.. I've been looking at the coil over market and you can get sets for around $400 - so that's 1600 gone missing. OK Ohlins have better quality springs - and much better quality valving and big PR expenses - but they're still 5 x the price
Anyone else gave up on there original search ans started looking up hearing aid prices?
Good info. Get a shirt mic.
Close your eyes...and you will hear Edward Snowden
Adjustable strut vs non-adjustable strut. Coilover vs non- adjustable coilover. Duh. It is a strut!!! Coilover = more money
Too quiet bru, bring mic closer
Could not hear nor understand him
if only the audio wasn't trash, or had CC at least
Buy a mic
Dudes wearing makeup
Incorrect sir! I'll take that as a compliment on my well defined cheekbones 🤣
I wish my skin looked as good as Ryan's does, no make up required or used. Decades of surfing the morning sun has left mine looking not half as good.
You don't know the difference in terms of lap time on track between the two do you?
Nice job! This is a video that addresses one of the most common questions posted to miata.net