the pump should only run while you have a function active you are dead heading a closed loop pump running it the way you are. Thats why the amp draw is so high.
I am truly impressed with the amount of work on so many different projects that you are able to accomplish on top of a regular job. You are an amazing problem solver and you don’t seem to be slowed down by any obstacle. Your channel has become my favorite because you do so many things in an informative and entertaining manner. Please don’t stop. Thanks for all the great content Dan
Agree totally. Also like he isn’t afraid to say when something doesn’t work or if something works way better than he planned etc. Clearly Dan knows a lot about a lot but doesn’t act like he knows everything about everything.
Hi Dan. You need a relief valve on the pump or there probably is one there already. It’s sounds like it’s building maximum pressure as soon as you flip it on. That way it will not draw so much power and you should definitely get away with the car’s alternator and battery as long as the car is running.
The valve body should have a neutral bypass return back to tank when not being used, pressure shouldn't be on the system until a solenoid is energized.
@@hardball107 Propably on original controls, pump was turned on only when any of the functions were enabled. Now it is possible to do that by using few diodes...
Dan the Capri has a frame. All the way to the bumper you could pick it up there and figure out how to secure. Those frames rot out over the drivers side rear wheel Been there done. That
The pump needs wired so it only comes on when you hit one of the buttons to move the lift. I've seen those pumps on our lift gate trucks get hot enough to melt the plastic jug off the pump.
As others have said you really need to wire the pump up correctly it shouldn’t be all the time, only be running when you use the button. You’re gonna burn up the pump and that’s why you’re drawing so much power. Good choice over the in bed set up, you made that truck a million times more functional.
Roll pan the back of the bed and get all the clearance you can. You have that whole lift to act like a bumper and essentially protect the back of the truck. Just a thought.
Lot of guys ditch the rear bumper because of that very reason. I think on those chevs you can stuff the bumper up closer to the box by modifying the mounting holes but it doesnt gain much. Every truck i see with a stinger doesn't have a rear bumper and i feel ya. It looks gaudy lol but hey great acquisition! This will make your car addiction SOOOO much easier! And if you wanna do repos on the side, your set up!
Could always build a quick release for the bumper for when he has to tow something with a large rear overhang. Like you said most guys in my area run no rear bumper but they are strictly business trucks. So I see why Dan would want to keep his.
Adding a belt driven PTO clutch pump would increase flow and really improve it's operation. They make bolt on kits. But the 12 volt pumps do work just slower and keep a spare solenoid for the pump in the truck. The motors do get hot. Add a set of overload springs with over load spring pads, overload springs should just touch the pads unloaded. that way it does not effect the ride as much when empty. When lifting a car it helps to lift the car bumper above the truck bumper for turning. Alot of guys used to remove the rear bumper. I built some of the first ones of these back in the 80's at Dynamic. Make sure you keep the king pin and bar plates greased, there is alot of load on that pin and plates on the Draw Bar when towing. You might need to add a steel 1/4" push bumper to the front for counter weight on the front of the truck for stopping. Bigger cars required us to add some weight ahead of the front axle. If I remember right 200lbs - 400lbs. Some times 1/2" plates were cut to frame width and bloted to the bottom of the front frame. Using a relay to turn pump on when you hit any control switch is the way it needs to be done so the pump is not running continuously and bulding heat, they are just a starter motor and really not designed for continuous running. But that pump should only come on with functions if you want it to live.
Great job there Dan!! I’ve used those pumps on many farm applications. Your controller switches should be double pole, momentary. So the switch will do 2 things at once, turn the pump on and direct the solinoid. That way your pump doesn’t run all the time. Keep up the great work and have fun on your trip!!!
Seeing a fairly new truck like that have so much orange on the frame reminds me how fortunate I am to work on cars here in northern California. I just had a late 90s Suburban in the shop and it still had the stick-to-everything black cosmolene all over the frame with not even a hint of rust except on tge exhaust
Glad you got the stinger working. Just one request, PLEASE release switch when you get to full throw. That high pitches squeal is the idiot alarm. Loose that bumper and weld a chunk of 4 inch pipe in it's place, close in to body.
Iv never once unhooked a battery when welding. Its not the battery being hooked up that fries shit. Its people putting the ground lead on rocker panel and welding on cylinder head. Or puttin ground on the bumper and welding on the rocker panel. I work on modern cars every day.
To help counter the weight behind the rear axle, Make a 6 or 8 inch box across the front of the bed that is the same size as the bed and fill it with sand (or gravel, concrete, scrap metal. etc)... the more weight you add, the less the stress on the frame will be...
EXCELLENT Video and work Dan! You never cease to amaze me with your skills and ability to get something done. You can look at any situation and come up with a solution and bring it to fruition. This truck will be a very useful tool for you guys with what you do, and you built it to last for years to come. EXCELLENT!
Dan when you cut those plates off the truck back bumper you can put some flush mount lights and then you can turn on the lights when you start to back up to the car your backing up to. I love the new style tow truck. That is so awesome and you'll get used to it pretty fast . Keep up the great work and God Bless you guys and your families. 😊👍🙏🏼💯💪
Dan... Lifting the bed off use 2x4 cut to length for the in side the upper bed rail put your forks in low set the 2x4 on top of fork lift... Easy peasy
Sorry it slipped over and broke the tail light, I swear that is what happens every time I do a project. Makes me feel like I goof up all the time. At least you are real and don't edit out mistakes. Happy New Year and enjoy the new better wrecker. You are doing a good job!
The pivot pin will wear pretty fast depending how much it’s used and or greased. The rest is pretty much maint free for about five years or better. Hoses, bushings and rams will last if kept maintained.
Always enjoy watching you craft. You have a gift unlike some of us. Keep up the good work and do not give up on the well this is not right or wrong keep up the challenge of hot rodding and plenty of the scratching of the head.
Nice job Dan, your gonna love it. I ran one for yrs. The pump has to be wired to only come on when you press a function switch, you do not need two batterys. Also a backup camera placed low so you can see & you never have to leace the cab
I have installed these on some regular c30 trucks years ago. We usually shortened the frames right behind the rear spring perches. Hence the stubby tow beds.
Have fun in Kansas at Chads Junk yard, don't buy too many more projects. I live about 4 hours straight south in Altus Oklahoma, If you get that far south stop in. I have a full set of 57 chevy 2dr hardtop glass you can have to put in your ratty 57and I'll buy you supper. I'm building a 55 pickup right now.
Looking good. Think your going to need to make a door to access the hydraulic pump. If you don’t want to add a battery you would need step on the gas to increase the power. On my dump truck 94 gmc 3500 I have a belt driven pump. Pump when it’s slow I just kick up the rpm a bit and it does it. Also I would roll pan it so you have more turning and lifting room. Get straps and a set of wireless trailer lights from princess auto for adding to the car your towing. That’s the cheapest way to get lights for towing. You might also need a strobe. $50. Princess has ez strobe light kits. Will cost $250 and up depending on what you want to do if you want the hidden front and back. I went with those cause I work most at night and people still get to close when trying to change tires on the side of the road.
I lift a lot of truck beds off and I had a few of those incidents using straps now I cut a couple of 2x6 planks and and put them under the upper box rails and drive the forks under the planks and lift off a nice stable box
Listening to that pump deadhead is like nails on a chalkboard! Have to wire it like a snowplow with a second solenoid to trigger the pump on and off. A ford style starter solenoid works well.
Also take the hand held control box apart and look at wiring, if it has double pole, double throw switches its already wired for controling pump. The switches are probably all jumped together on one side to control the pump and the other side of the switch will be for functions.
Very enjoyable video Dan ! Some good reinforcement of the frame!! Thank you for sharing your journey !!! Be careful and God bless you and Dani !!! Eddy
Throw some helper air bags on the rear axle. helper springs might give it a stiffer ride where air bags would give you lift and a soft ride. I use helper bags on my truck when towing the toy hauler, big difference. The install didn't really look that bad...
Timbren makes a Heavy Duty kit for these trucks, super easy install, just replaces the factory bump stops, and they're progressive so they still ride nice. I have the light duty set on mine, unloaded you don't even notice it, but with the enclosed if does a bang-up job preventing the sag it used to have. I know you've already done your reinforcing, but if I were doing it, I'd probably just box the frame (on the inner side) from the front of the forward leaf spring hanger to mid-way under the cab where you said others have seen failures.
I still prefer a flat bed full floor car trailer with a remote controlled electric winch. Unhook it if tow vehicle needed for other purposes. Can be towed by any other vehicle with a receiver and trailer wiring if primary tow vehicle develops issues. Car being hauled does not need roadworthy components (or even axles) on either end. No hydraulic subsystems to deal with. Many tie down points to utilize. Not as maneuverable in tight spots, but advantages outweigh disadvantages. And trailers can be used for hauling other stuff besides cars that are too big to fit in a pickup bed.
Hi Dan may I suggest air bags instead of helper springs, with the bags it’s a bit more work to install but the payoff is huge , no sketchy steering , better ride quality. Cheers 🇨🇦
The rear frame looks surprisingly decent from a rust perspective. Make sure you look closely at the tube crossmember that goes over the gas tank. The tank holds all the moisture and salt right up against that crossmember rusting it out. Either drop the tank for a good look at the underside or use a flashlight to peek into the tube from the side. I found that crossmember entirely rusted through on my 07 Silverado. It was pretty easy to replace and I'm glad I spotted it before my gas tank dropped to the ground. Also, why not cut an access hole in the box floor just above the pump to get easier access to fill the hydraulic fluid?
Great job Dan, that lift operation is delightful to watch, I am glad you were able to get it to function without any major problems, you seem to have a good plan to get the lift installed.
AWESOME! ... GOOD SNAG!.... GOOD JOB! ......DAN PUT SOME GREASE ON ALL YOUR ELECTRICAL PUGS TO KEEP WATER OUT!... .........SCREW THE INTERNET TROLLS! ..............
I am an old ford man. The dealership had a frame comparison between all of the big 4 and ford's frames where far superior. It's amazing how strong ford frames are. My f150 was rear ended by a semi.. it only bent the bed rails. 2700.00 damage. Them my brother ran it up the side of a mountain. It was twisted bad. They pulled it down and drove it away lmao 🤣.
Hey Dan, I don’t comment much, but I follow your work intensely and love it! This is especially interesting to me inasmuch as it’s way outside of anything I’ve ever done. Damn interesting, educational and entertaining to watch! Peace my friend, DrRick
You mentioned lifting cars from the front, this lift is designed to lift from the front. All cars have a place where tow truck drivers can disengage the car's shifter lock, to put the car in neutral. Worst case scenario, you'll have to drop the drive shaft. This is also helpful for cars that do not have a locking steering column.
Hi Dan ,all my years of experience, repairing and building frames,one of the weakest points on your truck is right below the back of the cab. The way you are reinforcing it with the strip on the top flange is the perfect way to reinforce the frame it will take most of the brunt. If you look under the cab, there should be some holes on that top flange where you can bolt your reinforcing flat bar. pre-drill them holes in your flat bar and then run that flat bar right to the back of the truck stitch welding it.
Most trucks like this have the controls at the back so you can see what your lift is doing. Maybe make the controller wire longer so you can walk back to watch it. Other wise super job on all the frame strengthening
Looks good but we hook most of these power units up to turn on when you move a function. The pump sounds like it's going over the R/V as the valve block may be closed centre. Just a thought, well done...
No your doing right,I had a wrecker with an old Holmes body and it broke the frame all to hell over the years,if I had plated the frame id still have it.
And yes you’re gonna wanna add around a 400 pound to the front end if you’re gonna tow wit it fully out. Maybe a nice bumper with a built in tool box hua ?? Hua?? With a winch and some rigging stuff so you can do a full recovery! Lol hood luck hot dog!
Dan Did you make new shock mounts ??? I was thinkin that when I was also wondering if you drilled the top box bolt holes in back ??? Does/wouldnt "boxing" in the frame on the inside strengthen the frame more than the way you did it ??? Just curious ???
I for one think your right to plate the frame. The frames get weak any way from rust and revits get loose this is a good idea. Also they never thought at chevy you would make a tow truck out this truck so It is good to make it tougher. get a new tail light at the salvage maybe? Call and ask what they would take for one. Like you said shit happens. interresting video. should be great.OH its a 1 ton its considered a real truck it will be fine.
Welcome to the 21st century Dan, your wrecker is up to date.
The way ya got the hydraulics wired will work but ya gotta figure out the momentary part so the pump only runs when ya are hitting a button.
I totally agree 👍running the pump while not using it is building way too much pressure.
the pump should only run while you have a function active you are dead heading a closed loop pump running it the way you are. Thats why the amp draw is so high.
I am truly impressed with the amount of work on so many different projects that you are able to accomplish on top of a regular job. You are an amazing problem solver and you don’t seem to be slowed down by any obstacle. Your channel has become my favorite because you do so many things in an informative and entertaining manner. Please don’t stop. Thanks for all the great content Dan
Thanks man. I really appreciate that!
Agree totally. Also like he isn’t afraid to say when something doesn’t work or if something works way better than he planned etc. Clearly Dan knows a lot about a lot but doesn’t act like he knows everything about everything.
Hi Dan. You need a relief valve on the pump or there probably is one there already. It’s sounds like it’s building maximum pressure as soon as you flip it on. That way it will not draw so much power and you should definitely get away with the car’s alternator and battery as long as the car is running.
I agree.
The valve body should have a neutral bypass return back to tank when not being used, pressure shouldn't be on the system until a solenoid is energized.
@@hardball107 exactly. That’s what I was trying to explain but my English isn’t the best. Thank you sir
@@hardball107 Propably on original controls, pump was turned on only when any of the functions were enabled. Now it is possible to do that by using few diodes...
Dan the Capri has a frame. All the way to the bumper you could pick it up there and figure out how to secure.
Those frames rot out over the drivers side rear wheel
Been there done. That
The pump needs wired so it only comes on when you hit one of the buttons to move the lift. I've seen those pumps on our lift gate trucks get hot enough to melt the plastic jug off the pump.
Yep, going to burn that new pump motor up pretty quick
This is what I thought! or like a car hoist!
That's exactly what I came to say. Push a button and the pump comes on. You don't want the pump dead heading all the time. Lots of heat pretty quick.
Add some Airlift bags with a remote control air pump. This will give you the suspension lift only when you need it. No ride quality compromise
They make an ez bolt on airbag kit for over the axle--will give you all the adjustability you need for whatever you tow !!
As others have said you really need to wire the pump up correctly it shouldn’t be all the time, only be running when you use the button. You’re gonna burn up the pump and that’s why you’re drawing so much power. Good choice over the in bed set up, you made that truck a million times more functional.
Roll pan the back of the bed and get all the clearance you can. You have that whole lift to act like a bumper and essentially protect the back of the truck. Just a thought.
Ditch to bumper, paint the back of the lift arms, silver done.
Lot of guys ditch the rear bumper because of that very reason. I think on those chevs you can stuff the bumper up closer to the box by modifying the mounting holes but it doesnt gain much. Every truck i see with a stinger doesn't have a rear bumper and i feel ya. It looks gaudy lol but hey great acquisition! This will make your car addiction SOOOO much easier! And if you wanna do repos on the side, your set up!
Could always build a quick release for the bumper for when he has to tow something with a large rear overhang. Like you said most guys in my area run no rear bumper but they are strictly business trucks. So I see why Dan would want to keep his.
I've used the HD air bags bought specifically for the vehicle and they work great and don't hurt the ride.
Could always put air bags on the rear for helpers if ut sags more then you like.
Or overloads
Yeah she's getting some overloads I think
@@DDSpeedShop have them on my 79 f250 4x4 and carried one of those old super heavy vanguard 11 1/2 foot campers. Worked well
Adding a belt driven PTO clutch pump would increase flow and really improve it's operation. They make bolt on kits. But the 12 volt pumps do work just slower and keep a spare solenoid for the pump in the truck. The motors do get hot. Add a set of overload springs with over load spring pads, overload springs should just touch the pads unloaded. that way it does not effect the ride as much when empty. When lifting a car it helps to lift the car bumper above the truck bumper for turning. Alot of guys used to remove the rear bumper. I built some of the first ones of these back in the 80's at Dynamic. Make sure you keep the king pin and bar plates greased, there is alot of load on that pin and plates on the Draw Bar when towing. You might need to add a steel 1/4" push bumper to the front for counter weight on the front of the truck for stopping. Bigger cars required us to add some weight ahead of the front axle. If I remember right 200lbs - 400lbs. Some times 1/2" plates were cut to frame width and bloted to the bottom of the front frame. Using a relay to turn pump on when you hit any control switch is the way it needs to be done so the pump is not running continuously and bulding heat, they are just a starter motor and really not designed for continuous running. But that pump should only come on with functions if you want it to live.
Dan the man you are my hero. You just don't give up.
Great job there Dan!! I’ve used those pumps on many farm applications. Your controller switches should be double pole, momentary. So the switch will do 2 things at once, turn the pump on and direct the solinoid. That way your pump doesn’t run all the time. Keep up the great work and have fun on your trip!!!
Just a backup camera away from becoming DD’s Towing! Love the videos!
Seeing a fairly new truck like that have so much orange on the frame reminds me how fortunate I am to work on cars here in northern California. I just had a late 90s Suburban in the shop and it still had the stick-to-everything black cosmolene all over the frame with not even a hint of rust except on tge exhaust
Awesome job on getting the new system together. Working as a true dream. Keep up the great work.
Glad you got the stinger working.
Just one request, PLEASE release switch when you get to full throw.
That high pitches squeal is the idiot alarm.
Loose that bumper and weld a chunk of 4 inch pipe in it's place, close in to body.
Congratulations Dan! Nice job!
Great to see something we all can relate to. Great job
Iv never once unhooked a battery when welding. Its not the battery being hooked up that fries shit. Its people putting the ground lead on rocker panel and welding on cylinder head. Or puttin ground on the bumper and welding on the rocker panel. I work on modern cars every day.
Glad to see some 🚚 truck content this is going to be a great hauler because you can never have to many car's 😊
To help counter the weight behind the rear axle, Make a 6 or 8 inch box across the front of the bed that is the same size as the bed and fill it with sand (or gravel, concrete, scrap metal. etc)... the more weight you add, the less the stress on the frame will be...
Really nice lift unit. Options for mounting are a plus. Cheers!
That's certainly a great addition to your truck. Keep up the great work and a Happy New Year to the both of you 🎉✌️🇺🇲
EXCELLENT Video and work Dan! You never cease to amaze me with your skills and ability to get something done. You can look at any situation and come up with a solution and bring it to fruition. This truck will be a very useful tool for you guys with what you do, and you built it to last for years to come. EXCELLENT!
Dan when you cut those plates off the truck back bumper you can put some flush mount lights and then you can turn on the lights when you start to back up to the car your backing up to. I love the new style tow truck. That is so awesome and you'll get used to it pretty fast . Keep up the great work and God Bless you guys and your families. 😊👍🙏🏼💯💪
Dan...
Lifting the bed off use 2x4 cut to length for the in side the upper bed rail put your forks in low set the 2x4 on top of fork lift...
Easy peasy
Now if you see a abandoned Car project sitting while your crusing the road, you can just sweep in buy it, and drag it home, no second thoughts ! LOL
Sorry it slipped over and broke the tail light, I swear that is what happens every time I do a project. Makes me feel like I goof up all the time. At least you are real and don't edit out mistakes. Happy New Year and enjoy the new better wrecker. You are doing a good job!
Dont forget to carefully look over the tube crossmembers they love to rot out just had to do mine along with inner,outer rocker panels and cab corners
The sweet part is ya got a built in jack at least for the rear. Guess if ya overload the lift ya could get the fronts up too.
The pivot pin will wear pretty fast depending how much it’s used and or greased. The rest is pretty much maint free for about five years or better. Hoses, bushings and rams will last if kept maintained.
Seen some kits that mount under and the bumper almost hides it.
Shorten the frame and the box by a foot and it will work fine. Did that to my friend duel wheel chevy. Worked a lot better.
Great looking set up.
Good job, Dan and Dani.
I come from a long line of car people and wrecker service owners and this video makes me smile! 😊
Good! Thanks do much
Always enjoy watching you craft. You have a gift unlike some of us. Keep up the good work and do not give up on the well this is not right or wrong keep up the challenge of hot rodding and plenty of the scratching of the head.
Nice job Dan, your gonna love it. I ran one for yrs. The pump has to be wired to only come on when you press a function switch, you do not need two batterys. Also a backup camera placed low so you can see & you never have to leace the cab
I have installed these on some regular c30 trucks years ago. We usually shortened the frames right behind the rear spring perches. Hence the stubby tow beds.
Have fun in Kansas at Chads Junk yard, don't buy too many more projects. I live about 4 hours straight south in Altus Oklahoma, If you get that far south stop in. I have a full set of 57 chevy 2dr hardtop glass you can have to put in your ratty 57and I'll buy you supper. I'm building a 55 pickup right now.
Looking good. Think your going to need to make a door to access the hydraulic pump. If you don’t want to add a battery you would need step on the gas to increase the power. On my dump truck 94 gmc 3500 I have a belt driven pump. Pump when it’s slow I just kick up the rpm a bit and it does it. Also I would roll pan it so you have more turning and lifting room. Get straps and a set of wireless trailer lights from princess auto for adding to the car your towing. That’s the cheapest way to get lights for towing. You might also need a strobe. $50. Princess has ez strobe light kits. Will cost $250 and up depending on what you want to do if you want the hidden front and back. I went with those cause I work most at night and people still get to close when trying to change tires on the side of the road.
Always got solid advice. Thanks dude!
I lift a lot of truck beds off and I had a few of those incidents using straps now I cut a couple of 2x6 planks and and put them under the upper box rails and drive the forks under the planks and lift off a nice stable box
Hey Dan
Very impressive!
Good to see you out there as well Dannie. Take care of Yourselves😊
the farm truck has one of those but it was cut up and modified for picking up 2000 pound grass bails for feeding cows.
Great job Dan, my company owned a towing company and we built wheel lift attachments for forklifts, your setup looks fine.
Listening to that pump deadhead is like nails on a chalkboard! Have to wire it like a snowplow with a second solenoid to trigger the pump on and off. A ford style starter solenoid works well.
Also take the hand held control box apart and look at wiring, if it has double pole, double throw switches its already wired for controling pump. The switches are probably all jumped together on one side to control the pump and the other side of the switch will be for functions.
Silverado in the garage. And a long video. Thank you for a great vid DD Speed Shop.
We had a 1986 Caprice Classic new from the dealership with employees discount when GM bought Hughes Aircraft.
Nice job, Dan.
The tow truck man.
Very enjoyable video Dan ! Some good reinforcement of the frame!! Thank you for sharing your journey !!! Be careful and God bless you and Dani !!! Eddy
Great job Dan... You added much value to your pickup.... After the bugs are worked out you have yourself a "Gold Brick" ....👍
That's a sweet upgrade! It's Minty!
Throw some helper air bags on the rear axle. helper springs might give it a stiffer ride where air bags would give you lift and a soft ride. I use helper bags on my truck when towing the toy hauler, big difference. The install didn't really look that bad...
Marketplace is the bane of our wallets, lol. Always something on there that needs a home.😊
It's a addiction haha
You have a super car in the fleet. So this is a must
A multitude of people all catching the hydraulic problem so I don't have to. Glad you have your stinger truck now. Safe travels kids
Timbren makes a Heavy Duty kit for these trucks, super easy install, just replaces the factory bump stops, and they're progressive so they still ride nice. I have the light duty set on mine, unloaded you don't even notice it, but with the enclosed if does a bang-up job preventing the sag it used to have. I know you've already done your reinforcing, but if I were doing it, I'd probably just box the frame (on the inner side) from the front of the forward leaf spring hanger to mid-way under the cab where you said others have seen failures.
I still prefer a flat bed full floor car trailer with a remote controlled electric winch. Unhook it if tow vehicle needed for other purposes. Can be towed by any other vehicle with a receiver and trailer wiring if primary tow vehicle develops issues. Car being hauled does not need roadworthy components (or even axles) on either end. No hydraulic subsystems to deal with. Many tie down points to utilize. Not as maneuverable in tight spots, but advantages outweigh disadvantages. And trailers can be used for hauling other stuff besides cars that are too big to fit in a pickup bed.
Hi Dan may I suggest air bags instead of helper springs, with the bags it’s a bit more work to install but the payoff is huge , no sketchy steering , better ride quality. Cheers 🇨🇦
The rear frame looks surprisingly decent from a rust perspective. Make sure you look closely at the tube crossmember that goes over the gas tank. The tank holds all the moisture and salt right up against that crossmember rusting it out. Either drop the tank for a good look at the underside or use a flashlight to peek into the tube from the side. I found that crossmember entirely rusted through on my 07 Silverado. It was pretty easy to replace and I'm glad I spotted it before my gas tank dropped to the ground. Also, why not cut an access hole in the box floor just above the pump to get easier access to fill the hydraulic fluid?
Yeah all good ideas
Great job Dan, that lift operation is delightful to watch, I am glad you were able to get it to function without any major problems, you seem to have a good plan to get the lift installed.
AWESOME! ... GOOD SNAG!.... GOOD JOB! ......DAN PUT SOME GREASE ON ALL YOUR ELECTRICAL PUGS TO KEEP WATER OUT!...
.........SCREW THE INTERNET TROLLS! ..............
Yep been there forgot step F and was on step Z always nice Great video Dan I like the tow truck
I am an old ford man. The dealership had a frame comparison between all of the big 4 and ford's frames where far superior. It's amazing how strong ford frames are. My f150 was rear ended by a semi.. it only bent the bed rails. 2700.00 damage. Them my brother ran it up the side of a mountain. It was twisted bad. They pulled it down and drove it away lmao 🤣.
Put some weld in the middle of the plate, it will flex outward.
Hey Dan,
I don’t comment much, but I follow your work intensely and love it! This is especially interesting to me inasmuch as it’s way outside of anything I’ve ever done.
Damn interesting, educational and entertaining to watch!
Peace my friend,
DrRick
Thanks buddy! I dunno if it's right but it's what I did haha
Givin' those classic's a hike, one rear end at a time!
I think the solenoid valves on your lift are closed center, and the pump is set up for open center solenoids.
You mentioned lifting cars from the front, this lift is designed to lift from the front. All cars have a place where tow truck drivers can disengage the car's shifter lock, to put the car in neutral. Worst case scenario, you'll have to drop the drive shaft. This is also helpful for cars that do not have a locking steering column.
Hi Dan ,all my years of experience, repairing and building frames,one of the weakest points on your truck is right below the back of the cab. The way you are reinforcing it with the strip on the top flange is the perfect way to reinforce the frame it will take most of the brunt. If you look under the cab, there should be some holes on that top flange where you can bolt your reinforcing flat bar. pre-drill them holes in your flat bar and then run that flat bar right to the back of the truck stitch welding it.
like cutting out a major crossmember wow bolting on strength yes welding on frame no no no
Most trucks like this have the controls at the back so you can see what your lift is doing. Maybe make the controller wire longer so you can walk back to watch it. Other wise super job on all the frame strengthening
Very informative. Id lose the bumper for more clearance for sure.
Looks good but we hook most of these power units up to turn on when you move a function. The pump sounds like it's going over the R/V as the valve block may be closed centre. Just a thought, well done...
I have owned 3 tow companies and you will love this wheel lift!!
Sweet! Thanks man
@@DDSpeedShop I’ve been thinking of putting one on my Kodiak for my restoration shop but been slammed
Congrats on new rig,
Hey Dan! Kevin here! Keep coming back to cruising the coast we loved seeing y’all! Mississippi wants you back!
lose the bumper, put in a roll pan and use the trailer hitch attachment that came with the lift.
No your doing right,I had a wrecker with an old Holmes body and it broke the frame all to hell over the years,if I had plated the frame id still have it.
And yes you’re gonna wanna add around a 400 pound to the front end if you’re gonna tow wit it fully out. Maybe a nice bumper with a built in tool box hua ?? Hua?? With a winch and some rigging stuff so you can do a full recovery! Lol hood luck hot dog!
I upgraded my 06 2500hd plow truck alternator to the 130 anp large case, it made a huge difference.
Yeah ill probably end up buying one
That many miles your lucky the frame is ok rite under the cab I would check it out in Canada I would good video as always thanks
Since you're up 24 hours a day it seems, might as well start a towing business too 😂. Love the channel!
Haha
Dan
Did you make new shock mounts ??? I was thinkin that when I was also wondering if you drilled the top box bolt holes in back ??? Does/wouldnt "boxing" in the frame on the inside strengthen the frame more than the way you did it ??? Just curious ???
Gotta give great respect and credit for the guys playing the tunes! Almost sounds like Freebird
Right? It's awesome
@@DDSpeedShop I had to put some some Skynard on. Cranked! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Maybe a set of Timbren bump stops for the rear springs. Stock ride, cheaper and easier to install than airbags..
That's going to make your life a lot easier when it comes to moving cars.
I don’t know what it is but the music was giving me flashbacks! 😂
As soon as you said “we might have to modify the exhaust” I went “Fenderwell headers!”
Haha im in!
Good Job Dan
Drill a hole in the inside wall of bed for trans funnel to fill hydraulic tank. Put rubber plug in when not using it.
That is a really good idea. I'm gunna remember that
i liked this video before i clicked play. DDSS rules
A great upgrade.
Wow nice unit good job
150k! Congrats! Happy New Year!
Thanks!
Dan, good idea to beef up the truck frame...
I for one think your right to plate the frame. The frames get weak any way from rust and revits get loose this is a good idea. Also they never thought at chevy you would make a tow truck out this truck so It is good to make it tougher. get a new tail light at the salvage maybe? Call and ask what they would take for one. Like you said shit happens. interresting video. should be great.OH its a 1 ton its considered a real truck it will be fine.
Awesome score
Good job
l like what you have did there Dan, that will beat the tow dolly I use for chore, needs air bags on the rear axel of the truck