This is fantastic! I've been looking for a detailed HOW TO on spin casting for fishing weight production. After watching this series, I can't think of any questions I have after this series! So great!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. My project is a scratch build 1/12 Jaguar XKR X150. Currently working on the suspension, masters from Evergreen styrene and silicone mold casting in rigid polyurethane resin. Australia.
Great video series! I love your videos in general. Im new to these processes for pouring pewter and had few questions. I was wondering what makes you choose the vulcanized rubber method vs the silicone? Is one better for some things then others? Does one result in better details? Also I was just curious, I questioned it and wavered back and forth but what makes you choose to do pewter castings over “cold-casting”? if you have tried that. Thank you in advance for any help and information.
Thanks Justsomeguy glad you like the series. Lots of questions... 1. Vulcanised centrifugal rubber moulds give far better quality castings than the cold cured silicone with less distortion and finer detail. 2. Cold cure silicone moulds are only used by me for one-offs or to convert a 3d printed part into metal. 3. Silicone centrifugal moulds are available but are more expensive. 4. Resin / cold casting is fine but fails cannot be re-cyclyed unlike pewter castings which are just re-melted and you go again. 5. Tried resin casting - didn't like it. 😁
Hi Rubeno, glad you liked the video. Unfortunately rubber moulds are totally unsuitable for brass casting, they will just catch fire - not good. Try searching 'lost wax / investment casting' . That is how brass is traditionally cast
I wondering what will hapens if you directioned the vent channels direct to the large feeding hole instead to the boards,be careful,I dont know if it spit the metal out,so its just one experiment...maybe it will be no problem to use high speed for beter detail in casting if the system work.
Hi Lancelot, thanks for your comment. The molten metal will fill and block any air vent it comes into contact with so they must be kept separate at all times. Getting the air out is crucial for successful casting.
Definitely not, unless flames, explosions, fire-engines, ambulances and a trip to hospital are on your agenda. This process is for tin based alloys only.
Even high temperature rubbers don't like Zinc casting (420C) . I suggest you speak to your rubber supplier and ask them to recommend a rubber for your application. If they can't supply you may have to consider a lower temperature metal (Tin alloy).
Why are the vents cut to the perimeter? Could they be brought back closer to the center, ensuring to avoid feed mouths and drilling to the top of the mold? Would this prevent overflow spilling. Thank you for the wonderful layout of your videos. They are very educational and provide all the right information.
Thanks for the comment Jason. The metal flowing down the vents is not a problem as the excess is easily removed on clean up. The primary goal is good casting quality which is way more important and more difficult to achieve. 🙂
@@aljericotaleon3265 the higher the tin content the stronger the casting but it is more difficult to cast that is why the lead is present. There are lots of different grades. It is best to talk to your supplier about what you wish to cast.
Hi Viggo, NO this method does not work for Aluminium. Aluminium melts at 660C, using this method you will end up with a fire and probably a visit to the hospital.
You can centrifugally cast aluminum, just not using this machine and rubber molds. I've never seen a centrifugal casting setup for aluminum that even comes close to being practical for the home shop hobbyist, or even small production shops. Stuff like that tends to get outsourced. I did see a very crude home setup here on TH-cam, but that rig didn't even have a containment shield. Even with a full fire suit I wouldn't be caught near a contraption like that. No casting project is worth suffering severe, possibly debilitating or fatal, burns.
The oxides are skimmed off the molten pewter frequently and the regular addition of fresh metal keeps it in good condition. Fluxes are added at the end of a casting session. But to be honest the behaviour of the metal remains very consistent. Atmospheric conditions have a greater affect
The masters are often 3D printed or sculpted in Milliput then they are 'translated' into metal using the processes described in the 3 previous how to videos. 🙂
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This is fantastic! I've been looking for a detailed HOW TO on spin casting for fishing weight production. After watching this series, I can't think of any questions I have after this series! So great!
Glad you found my video useful. Good luck with the fishing weights. 🙂
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. My project is a scratch build 1/12 Jaguar XKR X150. Currently working on the suspension, masters from Evergreen styrene and silicone mold casting in rigid polyurethane resin. Australia.
Hi Geoffrey, thanks for the kind comment. A Jaguar XK150 is a real gentleman's project. I hope you are enjoying the journey. All the best, Sera.
dear sir your work is wonderful! thank you for sharing your masterpieces with us! greetings from italy!
Thank you for the very kind comments. I hope you will continue to enjoy my projects. Sera.
Nice video Sera, its fascinating to see the process in more detail !
Thanks James. Episode #5 will be about decal printing.
nicely done, you just earned another subscriber
Thanks for subscribing fontanot. Enjoy the channel, plenty more to come.
Great video series! I love your videos in general. Im new to these processes for pouring pewter and had few questions. I was wondering what makes you choose the vulcanized rubber method vs the silicone? Is one better for some things then others? Does one result in better details? Also I was just curious, I questioned it and wavered back and forth but what makes you choose to do pewter castings over “cold-casting”? if you have tried that. Thank you in advance for any help and information.
Thanks Justsomeguy glad you like the series. Lots of questions...
1. Vulcanised centrifugal rubber moulds give far better quality castings than the cold cured silicone with less distortion and finer detail.
2. Cold cure silicone moulds are only used by me for one-offs or to convert a 3d printed part into metal.
3. Silicone centrifugal moulds are available but are more expensive.
4. Resin / cold casting is fine but fails cannot be re-cyclyed unlike pewter castings which are just re-melted and you go again.
5. Tried resin casting - didn't like it. 😁
Very nice. I thought that material was zamak. Do you also use it for your castings?
I only cast in pewter. Zinc based alloys require a much higher temperature and are more dangerous to cast with.
wonderful video! Do you know if this type of moulds can resist brass?
Hi Rubeno, glad you liked the video. Unfortunately rubber moulds are totally unsuitable for brass casting, they will just catch fire - not good. Try searching 'lost wax / investment casting' . That is how brass is traditionally cast
THANK YOU ARE VERY HELPFUL
You're welcome! 🙂
Very clever 👍
Thanks Chris. 🙂
Hi that a great job good luck
Thanks 😊
I wondering what will hapens if you directioned the vent channels direct to the large feeding hole instead to the boards,be careful,I dont know if it spit the metal out,so its just one experiment...maybe it will be no problem to use high speed for beter detail in casting if the system work.
Hi Lancelot, thanks for your comment. The molten metal will fill and block any air vent it comes into contact with so they must be kept separate at all times. Getting the air out is crucial for successful casting.
@@StaplesandVine yes,thats right
great stuff
Thanks, glad you liked it.
HI
IT'S GREAT JOB
I ASCK A BOUT WISH SILICON YOU USE TO THE MOLT ?
Hi Ali, thanks for the kind comments. You can find links the suppliers I use in the descriptions of my videos.
Just wondering if the vulcanized rubber could be used with aluminum?
Definitely not, unless flames, explosions, fire-engines, ambulances and a trip to hospital are on your agenda. This process is for tin based alloys only.
@@StaplesandVine thats what i was thinking, but never delt with vulcanized rubber. and figured it was worth a quick ask.
Can rubber mold usable for aluminum work
Sorry no, definitely not. It will catch fire and you may end up in hospital.... not good.
Maravilloso
Thank you Pablo Cortez. 😊
hello, please tell me how many castings can this form withstand?
Depending on how hot the mould is run and the design of the parts the mould should withstand at least 500 castings.
please tell me how thick the wing of the plane is and what kind of rubber do you use for the mold?
The wing is about 6mm thick at its maximum. There are a lot of different rubber grades but I get mine from j-coker.co.uk/casting-discs/
I'm trying to pour a sculpture height 10 cm thickness 1.5 cm rubber does not withstand temperatures, cracks. you haven't had that experience
It sounds like the grade of rubber is not suitable for the type of metal you are casting. What metal and rubber are you using?
www SETEK rubber.
4%aluminum . 1% cuprum . the rest is zinc
Even high temperature rubbers don't like Zinc casting (420C) . I suggest you speak to your rubber supplier and ask them to recommend a rubber for your application. If they can't supply you may have to consider a lower temperature metal (Tin alloy).
Hello, are you in the United States? Where do you get the silicone molds?
Hi, I'm in the UK and get all my moulding discs from a company called COKER.
Why are the vents cut to the perimeter? Could they be brought back closer to the center, ensuring to avoid feed mouths and drilling to the top of the mold? Would this prevent overflow spilling.
Thank you for the wonderful layout of your videos. They are very educational and provide all the right information.
Thanks for the comment Jason. The metal flowing down the vents is not a problem as the excess is easily removed on clean up. The primary goal is good casting quality which is way more important and more difficult to achieve. 🙂
what type of rubber do you use for molding?
j-coker.co.uk/casting-discs/ grade 70
Hi sir this made from nice wonder ful metal What is metal name sir tell me sir please
I use pewter, it is a tin based alloy. There are lots of different types. DO NOT USE ZINC OR ALUMINIUM. - you will die.
Thanks
You're welcome 🙂
Sir can you please tell which grade of silicone use for cast aluminium parts because temprature of aluminium is very high
Hi sahil, this process is not suitable for aluminium casting. Please don't try it.
But sir which metals are suitable for the process
Alloys of Tin and Lead work with these moulds.
@@StaplesandVine hello sir! very inforamtive video. I wonder how hard the tin+lead alloy is. does it deform easily?
@@aljericotaleon3265 the higher the tin content the stronger the casting but it is more difficult to cast that is why the lead is present. There are lots of different grades. It is best to talk to your supplier about what you wish to cast.
Does this also work for alluminium?
Hi Viggo, NO this method does not work for Aluminium. Aluminium melts at 660C, using this method you will end up with a fire and probably a visit to the hospital.
@@StaplesandVine Thanks, do you maybe know methodes that work for alluminium?
@@viggovanhoutte4939 try searching for 'sand casting aluminium' 🙂
You can centrifugally cast aluminum, just not using this machine and rubber molds. I've never seen a centrifugal casting setup for aluminum that even comes close to being practical for the home shop hobbyist, or even small production shops. Stuff like that tends to get outsourced.
I did see a very crude home setup here on TH-cam, but that rig didn't even have a containment shield. Even with a full fire suit I wouldn't be caught near a contraption like that. No casting project is worth suffering severe, possibly debilitating or fatal, burns.
You're throwing a lot of oxides back into the melt. I wonder how badly it would affect the material properties in the last batches.
The oxides are skimmed off the molten pewter frequently and the regular addition of fresh metal keeps it in good condition. Fluxes are added at the end of a casting session. But to be honest the behaviour of the metal remains very consistent. Atmospheric conditions have a greater affect
Hi sir
air compressor for what it was: show in the end video
Hi Imran, the compressed air is used to operate a ram which holds the mould closed. The clamping pressure can be adjusted on a dial. 🙂
@@StaplesandVine please show me in the video
the metal used is aluminium?
No, I cast in Pewter which is a Tin based alloy. These moulds would not withstand the high temperatures needed for Aluminium casting.
HOW DO YOU MAKE THE MASTER FOR CASTING?
The masters are often 3D printed or sculpted in Milliput then they are 'translated' into metal using the processes described in the 3 previous how to videos. 🙂
what tipe mold you use?
Hi Dafid, check out my 'How To... ' #3 video to see how I make vulcanised rubber moulds here - th-cam.com/video/6EwpTAPDPd8/w-d-xo.html
What material is the mold made of?
The mold is made of rubber. You can see how in episode #3.
@@StaplesandVine I'm Vietnamese I don't understand. Can you please write the name of the material, I want to buy
@@hblure3540 rubber
There are many types of rubber. Please let me know what kind of rubber you use to make the mold
'Grade 70' j-coker.co.uk/casting-discs/
3 minutos cada centrifugada? No hay molde que aguante así.
Solo estoy colando a 290-310 C, lo que no causa ningún problema para el molde. Algunos de mis moldes tienen 20 años.
Indexing points
Standard practice for alignment is just to cut a notch in the side of the mouds. That's all that is needed.
Wow you have heat resistant fingers :)
I have been burnt many times. The secret is not to mind. 🙂
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👊
Thank you 🙂
:subtle:
Thanks
Video en español
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