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Did this today on a 2011 Megane 1.5dCi GT Line. Literally, did every step as is in the video and apart from a stuck on alloy, the rest was easy. It says it’s a 36mm socket for the brake disc nut. Can confirm it’s a 30mm on mine. 👍
I followed this video to carry out the procedure on my 2014 Megane 1.5 dci. I found most of the instructions to be accurate. However the socket for the wheel hub nut was a 30mm, not 36mm. I also invested in a torque wrench and took note of how tight the hub nut was when I unscrewed it - it wasn’t even close to 220 Nm - more like 120Nm. I’ve owned the car for 6 years and this is the first time I’ve taken those nuts off. I tightened them more when I put them back on. You absolutely need a wrench with a long handle to undo that nut - a standard wrench won’t give you enough torque, so either get a breaker bar or torque wrench. If you have all the right tools to start with (I didn’t and had to buy them as I went along!) it’s a fairly straightforward procedure, and you should be able to get both wheels done in no more than an hour.
Taking note of the torque when loosening doesn't work. Torque wrench is designed to work when tightening and isn't really meant to be used for loosening
It's a 32 I beleive on a standard megane 3, I baught a 36mm socket too and found out i had spent the money for nothing at the time, although it came in handy after to change the oil filter on my sons astra sri.
When winding the piston back in the caliper, should the brake hose be clamped or bleed nipple be opened? I've never done it when changing my rear pads (and so far not had any problems) but have had somebody tell me that the hose should be clamped to avoid damage to the servo when winding the pistons back.
If you clamp the hose, you will never push back the piston as you will be fighting the hydraulic pressure that you have just locked in the lines. Release the cap of the brake servo and that's all you need. Some people release the bleed nipple but brakes will require bleeding afterwards.
Its definatly a 30mm for shaft nut ,other than that good video and dont put hand brake up then put it down again after u open the brake fluid ressevoir. just leave it down from the start and put bricks or something under wheels.
@@techscrew2I think the person's talking about the guide pins in the caliper, that are greased because they need to slide. It's good practice to grease them, however if you disassemble the caliper and test by hand if they slide, there's no need to grease them.
@@UseTool_ENno, it is for grandtour had larger bearing and larger nut, 36 mm tightened to 280 Nm. Hatchback and coupe had smaller bearing and nut 30 mm tightened to 220 Nm. Other is good explained.
The disc and a bearing is one part, not the hub. It is a very good and handy solution. If you do not want to replace bearings at a time - there are discs with bearings excluded if you want to hasle with pushing out and then pushing in bearings.
36mm for some versions of Megane and 30mm for other versions. Obviously it was 36mm for the version used in the video. Always best to double check sizes, torwue wrench settings and even the procedure as it may very between different versions.
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⬇︎⬇︎ 🔥 🔧🔧🔧 🔥⬇︎⬇︎
Did this today on a 2011 Megane 1.5dCi GT Line.
Literally, did every step as is in the video and apart from a stuck on alloy, the rest was easy.
It says it’s a 36mm socket for the brake disc nut.
Can confirm it’s a 30mm on mine. 👍
Yes mine is different too
Thank you. Very simple and straight forward. Renault garage wanted stupid money. Your way was 113 euro for pads and discs both sides
I followed this video to carry out the procedure on my 2014 Megane 1.5 dci.
I found most of the instructions to be accurate. However the socket for the wheel hub nut was a 30mm, not 36mm.
I also invested in a torque wrench and took note of how tight the hub nut was when I unscrewed it - it wasn’t even close to 220 Nm - more like 120Nm. I’ve owned the car for 6 years and this is the first time I’ve taken those nuts off. I tightened them more when I put them back on.
You absolutely need a wrench with a long handle to undo that nut - a standard wrench won’t give you enough torque, so either get a breaker bar or torque wrench.
If you have all the right tools to start with (I didn’t and had to buy them as I went along!) it’s a fairly straightforward procedure, and you should be able to get both wheels done in no more than an hour.
Hi, on the grandtour version, you have to use 36mm socket for hub nut.
Taking note of the torque when loosening doesn't work. Torque wrench is designed to work when tightening and isn't really meant to be used for loosening
0:27 why do you pull the handbrake doesn't that squeeze the brake pads ?
I went and bought a 36mm socket for the hub, however it was only a 30 or so.
Same happened to me, had a 30 but before I started the job saw 36 in this video so went and ordered one and it did not get used
I don’t know your model but it’s a 36mm socket for anyone with Megane 265.
Hi, on my grandtour there was 36mm hub nut.
It's a 32 I beleive on a standard megane 3, I baught a 36mm socket too and found out i had spent the money for nothing at the time, although it came in handy after to change the oil filter on my sons astra sri.
Nice one, looks easy enough
Not going to lube the callipers slide pins ?
Now you know why brake sliders seize up. Half a job done on it
Amazing video and helpful!!!
When winding the piston back in the caliper, should the brake hose be clamped or bleed nipple be opened? I've never done it when changing my rear pads (and so far not had any problems) but have had somebody tell me that the hose should be clamped to avoid damage to the servo when winding the pistons back.
If you clamp the hose, you will never push back the piston as you will be fighting the hydraulic pressure that you have just locked in the lines.
Release the cap of the brake servo and that's all you need. Some people release the bleed nipple but brakes will require bleeding afterwards.
How does one unscrew that 36mm bolt that has already been torqued to 220nm?..
Breaker Bar, or put a cheater bar on the biggest ratchet you have
Impact wrench, just pull the trigger.
@@WavScorn259that's how you break a ratchet. Use the proper tool
Excelent job except i would have used some greese on the sliders and also on the bearing shaft. Makes it so much easyer for next time when done
Is it the same on the coupe 1.5 DCI ?
Hi @MrPatch25. We're 99% sure it is. OK, maybe 95%.
Hi I have just replaced mine and now I have am abs fault. Any ideas what I might have done wrong. Thanks
I found that for this model the bearings nut must be tighten to 280Nm not 220 Nm, can you confirm
Front is 280nm rear is 220nm
I think two kinds of nuts are used 36mm and 30mm 30mm 220nm 36mm I think it will be tightened with 280nm
this is my opinion
Its definatly a 30mm for shaft nut ,other than that good video and dont put hand brake up then put it down again after u open the brake fluid ressevoir. just leave it down from the start and put bricks or something under wheels.
Hatchback and coupe had 30 mm nut, grandtour had 36 mm nut.
You need to add grease inside the rubber tubes
And torq specs the screws
Inside what rubber tubes?
@@techscrew2I think the person's talking about the guide pins in the caliper, that are greased because they need to slide. It's good practice to grease them, however if you disassemble the caliper and test by hand if they slide, there's no need to grease them.
The rear disk socket is a 30 mm not 36mm
mine is a 36mm i was told to get a 30mm by a friend was way too small so came to this video and 36mm is perfect must vary in model of megane
@@craigsmith5261 very interesting
Hello guys, Indeed, for the same vehicle, from the same year, there can be different assemblies :/
@@UseTool_EN then the tightening torques must also be different.
@@UseTool_ENno, it is for grandtour had larger bearing and larger nut, 36 mm tightened to 280 Nm. Hatchback and coupe had smaller bearing and nut 30 mm tightened to 220 Nm. Other is good explained.
the hub and disc are one part? wtf!!
The disc and a bearing is one part, not the hub.
It is a very good and handy solution. If you do not want to replace bearings at a time - there are discs with bearings excluded if you want to hasle with pushing out and then pushing in bearings.
Citroën uses the same idea as well
Bought a 36 mm socket and it’s not it’s 30 mm thanks for a wasted trip and £15 for a socket.
You also could have just checked before buying and blaming someone else
36mm for some versions of Megane and 30mm for other versions. Obviously it was 36mm for the version used in the video. Always best to double check sizes, torwue wrench settings and even the procedure as it may very between different versions.