ACID WASHING OUTBOARD MOTOR
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- READ VIDEO DESCRIPTION!!!! FOR MORE INFO
#suzukioutboards #outboardflushing #rydlyme
SHOP MANUAL AND DIAGNOSTICS: amzn.to/2OX2S3W,
and never use those crap flushing ports on the motor!! (especially in nasty dirt water or saltwater)
Use a barrel ❗ It not only helps flushing ''correctly'', but washes off the drive shaft bearings. That can corrode if left setting up.
ALWAYS, do maintenance: FYI, • A potential problem wi...
BARREL on amazon now, this is a nice investment to have. Use mine daily: amzn.to/3dqtODo
RYDLYME MARINE
SUZUKI OUTBOARD
ANODE CHANGING
RYDLYME DESCALING KIT
OUTBOARD MAINTENANCE
"JETTYWOLF LIVE" - 9/11/2019 - my longest most detailed video ever. BUT, info you can truly use. IF, you're running a outboard in muddy, salty, water. Especially, if your outboard components have been effected like mine, (FUEL COOLER ISSUE...CLOGGED❗) OR, if you want to maintain your outboard motor and make it last.
MY ''new'' MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. YES, THIS IS A LONG VIDEO.
BUT IF YOU WATCH, YOU SHOULD LEARN A LOT. JUST AS I HAVE.
WATCH UPDATE: • OUTBOARD MOTOR FLUSHIN...
NOW, WORKING ON PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE ❗ DO TO THE ST. JOHNS RIVER, THAT MAKES OUTBOARD MECHANICS THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS, BECAUSE PEOPLE JUST DON'T KNOW, WHATS GOING ON IN THEIR 4 STROKE OUTBOARDS, THESE DAYS.
PAY NOW, OR PAY ''BIG TIME''......LATER 💲💰💲
''''''IT ALL STARTED WEEKS AGO'''''''
**** A INTERMITTENT ISSUE, THAT LEFT ME WITH A NON-RUNNING 250 SUZUKI, OUT WITH CHARTER CUSTOMERS, IN THE 100 DEGREE HEAT. MY OUTBOARD STARVED FOR FUEL. WOULD TURN OVER BUT NOT START.
FUEL COOLER WAS STOPPED UP❗❗❗❗❗❗❗❗
THEN, AFTER A LONG COOL OFF PERIOD, BACK AT THE DOCK OR AT HOME, MOTOR WOULD START AGAIN.
WATCH - LEARN - LISTEN, TO HOW I'M CHANGING MY MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE. HOW, I WILL TAKE EXTRA TIME EACH DAY TO PROPERLY FLUSH OUT THE ST. JOHNS RIVER FROM MY OUTBOARD. AND TRY TO SHORTEN, OR KEEP THE SEVERITY OF THE PROBLEM FROM HAPPENING AGAIN.
DOES NOT MATTER WHAT 4-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTOR BRAND YOU HAVE❗❗
SETTING UP A DESCALING FLUSHING ROUTINE, MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR MYSELF. THE RIVER I FISH IN IS SO NASTY, MUDDY AND SALTY. I MUST DO ALL I CAN TO STAY UP AND RUNNING AND DO EVERYTHING MYSELF.
VIDEO DISCUSSES: FUEL COOLER CLOGGING, INTERIOR ANODE CHANGING, DESCALING FLUSH, ALL THINGS I LEARNED AND NOW, PASSING ON TO YOU 👉👉👉
USING RYDLYME MARINE DESCALER, FLUSHING OUTBOARD ON A SCHEDULE FROM NOW ON. ESPECIALLY, SINCE I NOW HAVE THE PROPER PUMP AND SET UP.
RYDLYME Marine Biodegradable Marine Descaler. This product is to be diluted 1:1 with water and water only prior to use. For periodic maintenance, it may be diluted up to 1:3 with water. RYDLYME Marine works most effectively when circulated through an application such as a raw water cooling system, oil cooler, or A/C condenser in order to rapidly dissolve any unwanted marine fouling of water deposits. RYDLYME MARINE is safe on virtually any metal or material in water operated systems except for zinc and magnesium. Make sure to blank anodes or plan on replacing them after cleaning the cooling system on a marine engine. For complete instructions, SDS, and Specifications please review the available Technical Documents below or visit www.RYDLYMEMarine.com
MY LAST VIDEO ON CHANGING ANODES, ON MY SUZUKI:
• SUZUKI OUTBOARD ANODES...
MY AMAZON STORE ''TOOLS OF THE TRADE'' - BUY RYDLYME HERE AND MORE
www.amazon.com...
CONTACT ME AT: JETTYWOLF@GMAIL.COM - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
LONG VIDEO 🎬 I know. But please realize. I'm passing on INFO to you. Because my outboard health is my livelihood❗❗❗ www.captdaves.com - Contact Info. HELP ME, HELP YOU. Share & Thumbs up 👍
Hey captain I had a 2008 df140 I always flushed my motor when I would get home from weekend of fishing our water is pretty hard herein arizona every 50 hours I would.change my annodes . Well the hard water was so bad in my motor it clogged the two bottom cylinders the water jackets were like someone threw acid on them because I was getting water in my oil and blew my motor . Sent it to the outboard clinic in palm city florida with 2500 dollar's and go riped off never seen that power head again. Ain't that nice . Outboard clinic sucks !!! He must have needed the money more than I did.
@@stevebabka6210 WOW.... the water's hard here too, the water at home that I run the motor out in with my big trough. Why go out of state and all that. would never have done that.
Dave, Great video! Adding this flush to my matainan
@@gonedeepseafishing WATCH MORE!!!!!!!!! th-cam.com/video/7ZYwh9e2ZD8/w-d-xo.html AND th-cam.com/video/CObGWl0fUs4/w-d-xo.html
I’m getting my first boat would like for you to be my mentor 🙏🏾🙌🏾🙏🏾
Wow! I've spent hours looking for solutions to a lesser problem, I'm in the uk with a small fishing boat, only a 25hp 4 stroke Yamaha. Took my wife out fishing on our North Sea, engine overheated, similar in that the waterways in the engine had a build up of salt behind the thermostat, this had never been cleared by the boat flushing sytem, because the engine was cold and the thermostat was never open to allow a proper flush!! I've managed to get around this by flushing the system utilising a large tub of warm water, thermostat removed, and disolving the salt by letting the water temporature to get hot enough to disolve the salt.
Brilliant video and information, thank you. I'll subscribe and keep watching , many thanks, all the best..
My grandfather was a electrician in the Navy he knew all about diodes and anodes . He was in a minesweeper unit and they would have to degauss an entire ship. Thanks for the video.
Super detail. Thanks Dave. My new boat in Idaho won't ever see salt water but, after just a month, there's fine dirt and hard water deposit on the outside of the lower unit.
well it's not just saltwater here, it's also a salt DIRT filled river. But many people think just because they are in freshwater, they never have too ''flush'' their motors. I would at least use the flush ports on motor, or better yet run it on the ''muffs'' with fresh clean water outa a hose! Heat can make any minerals and dirt clog water passages, and 4 strokes make heat.
Thank you Captain,this has happened twice before the problem lies on a design flaw. The tubes on the fuel cooler are a lot narrower than the hose therefore creating an easy clog. I’m considering the use of an in line filter. Because my fuel cooler is not readily accessible. My engine doesn’t stall it just stops peeing and over heats it’s an F90 Yamaha 4 stroke. I’ve been flushing it with Salt Away and it has improved. The first time this happened was about a month ago. The engine overheated after 2 miles. I flushed it several times with the Salt Away and I was able to ride 12 miles before it happened again. I’m hoping to fix this problem soon. 🙏🙏👍👍👍👍
What do you mean inline filter? A filter for the water? You might restrict water flow? They already have a bunch of filters, fuel water separators etc
This video deserves 1 million views. Listen up folks, this will save you big bucks. Best damn video I've seen on this. My 2016 Zuk gets this kind of love.
Thank you sir
Thats all fine and dandy, but my ''Last good meal'' before hurricane Dorian video, got twice the views, in the same time frame as I'm replying to you. So yeah Larry, but it won't. because I'd need more than the ''usual viewership'' to thumbs up it, I'd need all of my 8600 PLUS subscribers to watch and thumbs up it, before YT even would pay attention. ''WE'RE ALL ON A SOCIAL CREDIT SCORE NOW'' Out of 8600 plus subscribers, this will do 3-4-500 views, and in maybe 2-4 years get 20k worth, like my first vid about anodes in YOUR MOTOR that need to be paid attention too. (the one linked in end screen and video description)
Posted this to my fishing page. Maybe bump your views.
Showing the build up inside your motor was very informative. I can not imagine how much buildup that there might be in other areas like the inside of a bend. That being said, Salt Away is formulated to remove salt. When you buy and use it you will get what you pay for. Salt Away is not there to break down anything else. It is a great product that does what it is marketed to do flush out salt and help prevent it from adhering to anything that it has coated. The other product you are using looks like it does a great job at what it is formulated to do as well. Thankfully from my experience I do not have a need to use that product. To me if there are barnacles or shells growing inside the water jackets that outboard is not getting flushed with freshwater after use. I know there are freshwater shellfish but I am assuming that this is a saltwater use outboard. If I missed something in the video and this is a freshwater used engine, my apologies for my incorrect assumption. I use Salt Away after every trip in my boat and my internal anodes still look almost brand new and they are 6yrs old. We are operating in very different conditions as my water jackets from what I can see have no build up in them at all, there is no mud or anything else “visible” when I pull my anodes. You also probably put 10 times the the hours on your outboard than I do on mine as you rely on your outboard for your livelihood. My outboard is a 2015 4.2 Yamaha 300. Informative video, Thank you.
whoa....dissertation not needed! #1 this all means zero if you don't know any history. and you don't. build was from not running in a barrel after each us, but using the flush ports. Those flush ports don't do shit! Plus, as it turned out all my issues were fuel cooler was CLOGGED. Flush ports just pushed the dirt and salt into fuel cooler. You didn't even know I'm running a saltwater inshore charter boat? Do you know that its a pain in the ass to flush with the muffs on my 250 zuki, no. I has lower water pick ups. hence a barrel instead. you know how much saltaway BS I'd go thru in a year???? a few 55 gallon drums. Thats a willy weekender stuff.
Hello and thank you much for the Great video and instructions. Years ago i had a 90 HP Evinrude and the thermostats used to get jammed too. My solution was to remove the lower unit and hook up the same Home depot pump that you have here and used to mix 3 Gallons of Vinegar and 2 bottles of CLR. They used to Do Magic and much much Cheaper.
well, test how long it takes your vinager and CLR to 100% dissolve a barnacle or sea shell. Cost wasn't a huge factor. Staying in business is.
Capt. Dave, you are fabulous and so informative and thorough too!! I bought a 1988 Cris Craft 21-6 Sea Hawk with a 225 HP Evinrude. I just want to feel safe going out in the Bay so I'm learning from your videos! Go git dem fish Capt.
P.S. It does have a VHS and Loran. Just concerned about the motor. Thank you and Tight Lines!!
@@bear6090 thanks, I have a lot showing details. I do have a brand new zuki, I bought in May 2020....had a issue, even after extensive maintenance. May not have been related, but in the charter biz, didnt have 3 weeks to sit around waiting for a mechanic to look at it.
Thx for this video Capt Dave. I run my Yamaha in a dirty, muddy freshwater lake, I’ve had some overheating issues lately. I think that rydlyme might do me some good. I enjoy all your vids but these maintenance vids are awesome. Keep em coming.
FOR ALL, TOO: YES, I had a charter the day after and my zuki ran cooler. I never gave it pure hell, as it was rough and blowing 20+ knots by 10am. But, prior to all the work I did, I'd see temps up to 160 plus degrees all the time. That's not really hot, given the water temp in the ''mud river'' is still 84-85 degrees even after the Hurricane passing by. (prior to hurricane, I'd see river temps up to 87 degrees) Had me and two other on boat and zuki highest temp seen all day was 151. So, I was happy. BY DECEMBER, I will pull internal anodes again, and do another flush. ''BECAUSE, I'm anal & will stick to a schedule''.
good video captain believe it or not for me that is the best outboard engine take care of it
I'd like to really try a OXE diesel outboard next time around (High dollar I'm sure) YEAH, of course. It's my LIVING, and reason I do what I do here and beyond. This video ought to be a eye opener for so many.
great video just got a new 200 and will maintenance myself so i appreciate your time doing this
Glad it helped
Thanks for the the great video, we go to pyramid lake here in Nevada the water is super hard on the motor components from now on my motor will be clean, Thank You for all the great info
Just flush your motor every time you return for 15-20 minutes, pull your anodes every six months and check them for corrosion. Replace as necessary, their cheap $25-30 dollars. Check them at six months, if there not more than a quarter used up clean them back to zinc re install and drive on. Just remember to flush the motor with clean water for 15-20 mins. I've owned 4-strokes since they came out.
me too and obviously you have never seen any of my other videos. I checked my anodes every oil change at 100 hours, along with my lower unit gear lube. but are you running in the St Johns River?
I just got done descaling my motor last weekend.
and will be doing the spark plugs this weekend. believe me I stay up with me and it's because that engine is my livelihood!
ALL OF THE ABOVE! just don't run your motor in a bucket for 3hrs,it will overheat the recycling liquid.The correct way to do this is to get yourself a proper pond pump,remove the gearcase and place the basin under the motor to recirculate the chemical, connect the pump to the copper water pipe that came out of the impeller housing read the damm instructions on whatever you choose to use as a chemical and plug it in an outlet.Before starting the pump remove thermostats all zinc anodes in the motor and pinch the pee hole tube with a small vise grip to allow all fluid to flow freely and return to the basin,in short words you are creating a fountain.Depending on the chemical,you can run this for a week or however long you choose,i own and run a commercial operation.
a week?!
I do that method using zepp and it gets a lot out of your motor for about 20 bucks a gallon. It will foam up so use a tub.
This is the way. I used muriatic acid which is cheap. However, I diluted one galón muriatic with enough water that I could stick my hand in the solution and It wouldn't burn my skin. Ran the solution from 10 am to 2 pm. A lot came out. (Engines had 2000hrs approximately) in retrospect, next time will buy ryd Lyme or something for this purpose to save time and do it faster. I dropped a thermostat gasket in the solution and no harm was done to it that I could percieve.
This is a awesome video Capt Dave. Why anyone would down you for having a kicker is beyond me. I run the chesapeake bay and it's nasty dirty water from Baltimore Dc etc. That ridlmye looks like a good product. I've also read on the hull truth guys flushing outboards with vinegar to cut the salt etc.
VINEGAR DOESN'T DO SHIT. way too weak! well, if you're not part of the Pathfinder boat clic, you're just not as cool as the rest. You oughta see the boat ramp I use on a weekend. SO MANY CLONE BOATS, everyone look the same, cuz everyone want to spend 100k to look like the next guy.
The misconception is that when you connect the muffs or hose to the flushing port that the flushing goes trough the entire engine. It does not. I went through the same process as you did and finally connected my 12v bilge pump directly to the intake water tube as you did. I used a different product (Barnacle Buster) and i was amazed at how much it actually cleaned out. My engine was a 1998 Yamaha 200 2stroke. I wonder how much circulation we are actually getting with the newer motors and the MFG suggested flush hose ports.
Real simple don't use those flushers that are on the engine by a tub run it out in freshwater especially if you run the dirty st. Johns River in Jacksonville Florida buy a tub www.amazon.com/shop/captdavessportfishingcharters
I use just straight Muriatic Acid from Lowes or Homedepot $9.99 it works great. Used an old Rule bilge pump but remove the lower unit and typically hook it onto the copper tube that goes into the engine. I run into the engine then let it set for a few minutes then run it again. Then rinse with clean water. I'm sure that stuff is pretty good but its pricey.
Muriatic chemically reacts powerfully to aluminum, almost instantly.
this is my livelyhood, Im not messin around with any homebrew. my luck something will go wrong!
@@CaptDavesSportfishing You don't mix it full strength. After you run it put some baking soda in the fresh water and that will stop any reactions. But, I understand.
Hey I also looked the Rydlyme and its Hydrocloric Acid at less than 10%. Muriatic and Hydrocloric Acid are basically the same thing. Both have the same amount and are both water soluble.
@@hawkeyemarine Maybe someday.....got plenty of Rydlyme.
Knowledge is power! Good job figuring out the issue . ...persistence!
it drove me to sleepless nights. Knowing that I'd be coming home on the next days charter with my trusty 15 kicker.........''again''.
Cool video. Outboard sludge is nasty. A better fix for you would be to flush with ridlyme marine. Use a tank or plastic tub that would fit under your outboard. Pull off lower unit. Use a bilge pump and wire it to run constant on. Hook a 3/4 piece of 4 foot hose to one end of bilge pump. Connect that hose from the bilge pump directly to the water pickup below the base of the power head. Mix 2 gallons watter and 2 gallons of ridlyme into your tub. Hook bilge pump up to battery or other 12 volt source. Remove water thermostat and put cover back on the water pump housing. Flush with that solution for approximately 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Problem solved. 90% of that build up is now gone. Flush out with fresh clean water. Repeat process to lower unit. With rubber impeller removed. Flush again with clean water for about 15 minutes.
gawd.....can tell you're not a subscriber/regular viewer. BEEN THERE DONE THAT, multiple videos already done.
I use Rydlime for many applications, mostly regular not marine grade. This product is will not harm metals. It works best undiluted.
Wear out rubber gaskets?
A lot of what you see on your ZINC anodes is ZINC OXIDE. The zinc is supposed to corrode, as part of a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Because the zinc is attached to the engine, it corrodes instead of the aluminum and steel of your engine.
So something like CLR or Lime Rid will remove the zinc oxide, which is essentially rusted zinc.
Salts Gone doesn’t remove rust.
I bought a nice 1080p !! blue tooth bore scope 16ft long off Amazon $45.00 been using it all time I like the fact its blue tooth because I can use my 17inch Mac book and have a nice big screen to see what is the damage to, it does work fine with a iPhone but come on who doesn’t want a big screen lol ... best mechanic investment ever , was better then my dads snap-on
NO IPHONE, NO MACBOOK, NO SMARTPHONE!
LOL @@CaptDavesSportfishing COME ON Man really gotta get Hip with todays technology lol ... Great channel though keep up the good work! 🤙🏽
I want to order. Can you give name of the bore scope that has these features?
@@jackmanjls just search Amazon.
Well Capt took me awhile to get enough time to watch the whole thing thru! But it’s a long, and necessary process it appears! I take care of my stuff, but really never thought about how serious the flushing of contaminates out the fuel cooler and passage ways were! Winter seems to be set in up here, so might be time to get this started! Thanks for all the info👍 Now have to buy a lot of parts, water trough, hoses etc..... B.O.A.T.
Well isn't that funny I just changed my oil in my 2020 Suzuki pulled out all the a nose check them clean them and reinstalled them just today
I'm not sure if I'd worry about the fuel cooler until you know where it's at and only if you're really having issues like it's a hundred and ten degrees in the shade and your engine stopped running because under the cowling it's 250 degrees. But if you actually read the shop manual for everybody's engine and maybe even the owners manual that tells you to check stuff like this basically every 90 days of 3 months which seems a little excessive I do it every hundred hours and for me that's about every 2 to 3 months
@@CaptDavesSportfishing motor is 13 years old, and Im Positive the previous owner never flushed the motor properly, or changed any of the anodes! I’m getting ready to do the 400 hour service so might as well go ahead and do all the things you did here for preventative maintenance if nothing else! My fuel cooler sits rite next to fuel rail so don’t have to pull VST to check! Time to order parts☹️
@@melloreel previous owner??? and its only at 400 hrs??? Wow. sounds just like new vision security, and his boat. If YA EVER RUN INTO A SNAG, I DO ALL THE TIME, JUST DID YESTERDAY Orowock will do his best over email or phone call to help, VIEWERSHIP. He's already help New Vision security with his EVINRUDE ficht motor.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing yep it actually had 300hrs 9 months ago when I bought her! Guy only used boat for two weeks vacation each year at a freshwater lake to pull his kids around, then back home and into the garage till next year! Sweet! But this motor (06 Yamaha f150) has a couple of (expensive) factory issues that I’ve got to fix now! I try to follow along with New Vision when I can to see what kinda trouble he’s having! I will email you for Orowock’s email if I hit a snag😀 thanks for the info!
Cheaper pump would have been a simple boat bilge pump. That’s what I used and worked really well!
that pump doesn't even get to top cylinders, doubt a bilge pump would. this is 4 yrs ago. I've changed everything out.
So, why not drop the foot and pump up through the water pump supply tube? For an everyday flush that port may be fine, but I don't believe they are thorough, even if you take out the thermostadts...
Another great and informative video, I just acquired a 2015 suzuki and am bringing the maintenance up to date. I am having trouble greasing the front tilt fittings. They are blocked by the sea star steering, ive tried to install angled zerks but they are a little to long. Have you determined a way to service these?
The guy took care of the boat but I want to make sure. Please advise me I will appreciate. And you look dam good after a prostate surgery. Good luck.
I had 8 weeks of radiation. No way surgery
Thanks for all the videos Dave Suzuki should sponsor you for all the great info you post.
yeah, that's funny. I don't have a TV show. I have a YT truth channel.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing Hi Dave, once again thanks for all the great information. So looking at your videos, it seem that you no longer take off the lower unit to do the Rydlyme you just use your flush port (after you take out the T-stats and Zinks) is that true I'm about to do my twin 300 AP's.
@@captpepin well the only reason I had the lower unit off is because it was at the shop getting the water pump changed I don't do water pumps I'm not busting my ass with that heavy lower. yeah other than that I just recycled it through the engine
Did mine yesterday...The lower unit bolts fit perfectly to remove the anode caps
10-4.....I jus keep a bolt handy
amazon you can buy a borescope that you hook up to your phone. $20
I shoulda known that as a ''Amazon Affiliate'' myself www.amazon.com/shop/captdavessportfishingcharters they got it all!
I saw a video were a guy clean the salt and crap out of the engine with Lime Away.
Do what ya want. I use commercial descaler, not happy home-maker stuff.
You could use an old bilge pump. That’s what we use
I have a big submersible pump
Hey Dave! I looked up the SDS for Rydlyme and it's 5%-9% hydrochloric acid. Genuine Joe acid bowl cleaner (toilet cleaner) is listed as ≤10% hydrochloric acid and lots cheaper! Maybe an idea for a video!!
I was recommended to rydlyme, so I tried it. One thing I hate doing is "home brewing" some concoction into a 20K motor that is my Livelihood. But good point.
Wow as a Charter captain you can't have your motor kicking out on you that's the kiss of death
yep!
Ok guys
I spent the day giving my 2016 Zuky some weekend love. Everything but the impeller. Plugs to oil. Popped my sacrificial anodes out for a look. I was stunned at what I found. The opening for the anode was completely blocked with salt and scale build up. Anodes were ok but I replaced them. Now understand I flush my motor at least 15 minutes after each use fresh or salt. Clearly I was not doing a good enough job. I will be flushing my motor Captain Dave's way. Bet that. Wish I could post a photo of the mess I found.
This is a 2016 Zuk with 328 hours. These anodes had around 150 hours on them. Keep on thinking you good. Cause you ain't! Pay a little now or pay big later.
service manual states.....check, inspect, replace every 50 hrs. or 3 months. YES, I R-U-N MY $20,000.00 TO REPLACE (never spent that on my 3/4 ton diesel truck!!!!) BY RUNNING IN MY BARREL TILL UP TO TEMP (t-stats open at 122-125) AND CAN YOU IMAGINE, IF I DO MULTIPLE CHARTERS LIKE 4 IN A ROW, THATS 4 DAYS OF FILLING THE BARREL UP......TIME? yes, it takes more time. But, that ''fuel cooler'' on your zuki, to replace costs good money, and tie to replace, so does the anodes........PAY NOW, OR JUST PAY LATER!
@@CaptDavesSportfishing
Clearly I failed. Thought I was good. In reality I was a dumb a**.
But I ordered 4 more sets of anodes, 4 gallon case of Rydlym and down loaded the service manual last night. I will fix this and keep it on point.
@@BlastedKat I was agreeing with you about iFish's comment. He's in Chicago area, so that says it all.......😆😆😆
@@CaptDavesSportfishing yes sir. That's how I took it. No worries , I hear outboard motors don't corrode up north. Immortal motors! 😜
Hello there Capt Dave and thanks for all the great insights and info! Much appreciated. Would like to ask you how much quantity of Rydlyme do you use when you flush the whole engine and do you necessarily need the pump or you can just run the engine in Rydlyme diluted fresh water?
Thanks again and kind regards from Greece!
you need a barrel and a few gallons of rydlyme 50/50 mix, and take out the t-stats and a pump, to do descaling correctly, I think.
Thanks bud all the way from CapeTown South Africa great advise love it makes total sense
Capt Dave- what were the two products you used on the bolts and anode housings?I think one you said was corrosion block, what was the other, and can you give us the brand names of each and where you get them?
TEFGEL? OR ANY SILICONE GREASE? not sure.
I know exactly what you are doing because I’m going through the same situation
I believe this was before I found out my fuel cooler was completely clogged take your fuel cooler off before and check to see if it's clogged if your engine heats up to normal temperature Batman keeps stalling
I know this is not a forum, as I have reached out to most of them with no solution to my problem.(a lot of help troubleshooting)I am reaching out to you because you have a Suzuki and are strict on your maintenance to see if you have any suggestions...I am running a 2013 250ss and I am having water pressure problems as well. 0 @ idle, 5psi @ about 3500 with the trim just bumped off tucked. I have changed both thermostats, the water pump, the filter screens, the pressure valve on the side of the mid-section. The only thing I haven't done is change the anodes. Nothing has made it any better. I'm running it on a 2013 Blue Wave and the cavitation plate is about 4" above the keel with a 10"jack plate.
replied to your email, know zero about water pressure, I deal in just temps and cleaning mud out of my motor, from the shit water i run.
Hi Kelly , do you still have problems with that water pressure ?
@@133air5 yes I am.
@@kellygunn6283 Hi Kelly , i'm not a mechanic or even a boat mechanic but have had my own good share of problems and fault finding on all motors . see if you can find out what the actual pressure is of your motor pump at different RPM's - see if the agent or manufacturer have any specs . these impellers are small and don't have much rpm or pressure for a start . if you buy say a 110 volt pump from the shop it will have a decent size impeller or diaphragm and very good rpm and can do volume . so if this was my outboard motor , i would remove both the thermostats first . I would go as far up/ to the top of the motor as possible and devise some sort of a plug or something that could spray the water out . So if the motor is in a drum and it picks up the water by itself , it should be able to pump it all the way to the top furthest part of the motor without any hindrance . now on this plug i would fit a outlet or something that i can fit a tube to and plug one of these Manometers in . i have one at home that is 1m long . this is a bit small but just an example . . . see this one www.ebay.com.au/i/322393752006? . you get special yellow water coloring for the tube but food coloring will work too . even build your own , its just a U tube on a piece of wood. Plug the manometer in on one side and see if the water moves in one direction . it should move as you must have water pressure . Say it blows all the water out the manometer then fit a balloon ( with some air ? ) to the other side of the manometer to give it some back pressure . Once you can get some reading out of it , you now have some sort of measurement . I would now check it at idle , 500 , 1000 and so on .dont over rev it stationary in the drum . the pressure should vary all the time . I would definitely want to see water flow even at idle . i would now start following the water temperature while the motor is running and i would expect the motor temp to be even all over the block and anywhere you suspect the water to flow . definitely all areas around the cylinder heads as the whole idea is for the water to do the cooling here . get a digital temperature probe at a aircon or electronic shop and see how hot the water gets . I would take the thermostats , put them in a thick glass jar , pour hot water over them to see at what temperature they open . I did it with my car thermostat , it was very accurate in opening and it even had the temperature stamped on the thermostat . . think it was 85 deg celsius . The outboard thermostats have to open at some temperature , and note this temperature down . Now i will replace only one thermostat and see if the pressure changes on the manometer . also keep an eye out to see if there are any temperature changes on the cylinder block and or water temperature . Now fit the second thermostat and do the same tests . once the thermostats are open you should have even flow and temperature anywhere on the motor . Also someone had a fuel problem where the fuel would boil into a vapour because the water heat exchanger was blocked and then it would not start . if you have something similar and this exchanger is inline then the water would not pass through and flow very slow or wont flow through at all . this would cause heating issues . That's all i can think of for now . just gather some data and that should show us where to go next . message me anytime and if you want to send some pictures or need more help. let me know how you go . regards André
Kelly I just seen a video saying to change the water pickups for the 250ss. My son has the same issue. New motor over heating around 5000 rpms. The part #s are 17631-98j00 and 17632-98j00.
Here in the PNW everyone has kicker motors.
I know that......my boat was built there
Thanks for the video. I just found that pump on ebay for $40 (preowned). Getting on it now
Good stuff
I use a 1” bilge pump , good flow
I use a 70 gallon barrel full of freshwater. and Never ever use flush ports ever again! fixed!
@@CaptDavesSportfishing I really live that pump you’re using too !! I’m definitely going to get one ! I use the bilge pump because some places I don’t have power its more of a setup you could use anywhere. but that pump is definitely more Idle ! thanks for sharing ! sub !
Hi , surely the engine must be at working temperature ,before any flushing can take place ,so the thermostats are open to allow all the water ways to be cleaned ,a lower pressure pump could be used to allow the cleaner to be in the water ways for a longer time ,as the cleaner only works on contact with the sludge and salt and takes time to remove it .This may save taking it all to pieces every time .
I NEVER EVER use these flush ports anymore. Only run each day in a 70 gal. barrel. with freshwater. I advice same if you run in dirt water with salt!
He took the thermostats and anodes out then put the covers back onto flush. Clearly said so at the beginning.
@@HarleyRog NO ONE LISTENS... cuz they are on litl' dumbphones, 99% of the time. Yep, not my first rodeo!
Capt Dave, great video. During the end of the video you mentioned that you are connecting to the Suzuki engine diagnostic screens. I know you need the software for the laptop and a interface cable to connect to the Suzuki, my question is where was the interface connector on your Suzuki 250. Was it a connector just dangling in the motor? Thanks.
Got all my software/cables/ service manuals on Amazon here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DKVCC91/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it wasn't super EZ as you have to make sure your lap top is on the battery only why it matters I haven't a clue, and on a thing called "con one"....the key has to be on and the connector on my motor is on the front starboard side, by the rig tube inside, and it's a white/grey plug. Nothing fancy, thats for sure. Yep, just kinda dangling inside bottom cowling, part of wiring harness.
Thank you sharing your knowledge and experience.
Glad it was helpful!
good vid Capt Dave, !!!!!That stuff has to have some mild acid in it.
phosphoric and other 9 essential minerals and vitamins.......😎😎
I love your videos thank you for the indepth information.
GLAD ya got over to this one. Its the real deal!
Thanks for the videos brand new subscriber.
I have a 2023 mercury 60 hp outboard that I use in fresh water. My question is do I need to do this flushing maintenance for 40 hours of run time a summer? I outboard is on a pontoon boat.
Thanks for the videos good stuff
a good flush every few years in sweetwater wouldn't hurt anything at all, but generally in freshwater NO.
Capt Dave , do you think I could use a salt away flush kit for a merc cruiser outdrive and that acid to perform a cleaning . Instead of Salt Away ?
Also keeping the thermostat in and when it opens turn the shut off valve to accept the acid remover , run it till it’s gone and let it soak .
Re flush , I know my thermostat gets pretty junked up so maybe it would clean that as well.
Your thoughts ?
take out t-stats, create a closed loop system with a big pump
Hey Dave - great video. Quick question - why didn’t you plug the tell tale to keep it only recycling into the tub in the bottom?
, because it doesn't matter and I had it going into a bucket anyhow
Man that's crazy thanks for sharing
I love your videos but I have a question. Do you know where I can find a detailed diagram of my DF70 Four Stroke 2006 cooling system? I need one that shows it all.
yes go to boats.net have your model number and you could be able to find your motor with all the systems and the exploded view and even order parts
Great video, Thanks! I have a light whitening on my engine and trolling motor from the very early stages of electrolysis. I've solved the electrolysis but I can't seem to wash the residue off. Any ideas?
no idea, this isn't for that.
I have a 2003 tohatsu 50 2 stroke that I use weekly in the bay and gulf and mine isn't as near as bad as that.
YOU ARE NOT IN THE ST. JOHNS RIVER IN JAX. be happy....this wasn't for YOU, then.
Dave lift the run product above the motor catch and recycle to the holding tank . The little pump will like pumping down hill ? 🤔
i got it done several times now, my sysyem works great, with my 1680 gal per hr. pump. the point ""IS"" THE SHIT in the st. johns river!!!
Captain Dave I’m a new guy on Boating .I bought a boat on 4-1-2024.The boat is a Cobia2000 or 2001. I would like for you to help me out.
How? I'm a busy guy. Watch my maintenance playlist.
Do it right. Pull the heads and clean out. The interior is painted and acid is just going to eat up more aluminum for sure. It can also eat the head gasket too. . Good luck !This is a last ditch effort
SUPER DILUTED.....this doesn't eat up, or loosen anything but minerals.
First timer here. Won't be the last!
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I have been guiding on power plant lakes since 1989. I have to acid flush my motors at least bi monthly sometimes monthly if real busy. At least now days there is Rydlyme. I have been using Muratic acid.
what? what kind of lake is that, the one from the Simpsons with 3 eyed fish. You don't even have HOT salt.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing San Antonio TX we have 2 power plant lakes (1500 and 3000 acres). They stock it with red drum, they go thru a spawn but the eggs don’t hatch. The water in the lake is 90* plus in the summer. The water is very hard. We get scale build up on the boat itself from the water.
@@shawnreese4906 those poor fish
Thanks for video!
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Hey buddy can you please make a video of you taking the covers off to get to all of them and do a oil change
unscrewing screws? I think thats pretty elementary.....hahaha.... Possibly, future...as I'm in no need for any reason to take off all the covers or a oil change as of yet. Will keep it mind.
The salt away is only good for new engines to keep the salt scale out of it before it starts...popet valve??? And whatever salt was in there is dissolved into the water
yeah......poppet valve
Damnit man,…..wish I’d seen this video before I purchased the Rydlyme pump kit for my Yamaha 250 on a 2007 Gause Built boat down here in Apollo Beach FL,……I dropped the lower unit, hooked the Rydlyme kit pump up to the outboard water pump tube (that feeds the water up to the entire engine),….nothing came out of the pee tube,…then, I cracked my thermostat housing (thermostats are out) and no water coming out/ no flow.
Got on the phone with Rydlyme - they’re very responsive/ good people,…..I FaceTime’d them to show what was going on (proved to them the above/ no water flows at thermostat or pee tube), they think it is possibly a bad pump/ overnighting me a new pump, which should be here this morning,…..but, after seeing your video, I suspect the pump is too small/ 2nd pump won’t prove any better. I’m heading to Home Depot this morning to grab another pump with higher flow/head pressure…..need to get my boat back on the water.
Thank you Captain Dave,……good video brotherman
YEP, THEIR PUMP IS USELESS. THEY MUST GET SICK AND TIRED OF PEOPLE COMPLAINING! I CALLED AND GAVE THEM HELL. I get comments that all I needed was a bilge pump.....bullshit! maybe it works on a 20 horse, 2 cylinder, not a 250 6-cylinder!!!! TAKE OUT YOUR INTERIOR ANODES, PERFECT TIME TO CHANGE THEM ALL, TOO.
I build power stations for a living (past 25+ years), and part of that work is chemically cleaning huge boilers - meaning, I have extensive experience in this arena. I called Rydlyme, and the President got on the phone (FaceTime), and I showed him/ proved exactly what’s going on with their small pump - I grabbed the same pump you used, and showed him it works with a larger pump,…. They are now sourcing a larger flow rated pump for future sales, and he said he’s sending me the prototype pump free of charge once they finalize + they’re refunding me the money for my original kit. I spent a couple hours on FaceTime with them to work through pump curves/ flowrates they need, to get it correct.
Will say, their product (Rydlyme juice) works,…..I pulled the thermostats and anode ‘bodies’ out and it was super clean inside the passages. People don’t appreciate how keeping cooling passages clean, will save them major cash in replacing parts due to overheating damage. I’m like you bud, I try to do all my own maint/ repairs on my shit,….simply because I can, and I don’t trust others to do it right 😁
All my buddies are guides down here in Apollo Beach, FL, and I’ve turned them onto this now,…..I plan to do it every time I change the pump impeller from now on. Thanks for your outstanding videos and what you do for the community brotherman. @@CaptDavesSportfishing
@@donaldhutchinson5319 I couldn't even get rid of their pump at a garage! I guess if I ever have a little backyard goldfish pond I can use their pump because that's all it's good for.
Shipping for me is $135 wich is insane!!!!
Saltaway was not designed for that purpose...it works really well as a regular flushing agent for people who follow good maintenance practises. Not designed for clogged up engines.
agree......Mine nasty not clogged. USED rydlyme on a schedule
Bingo.
Awesome video! Do you fish out of Mayport? Just scooped up a 25 Open Contender & started watching your vids.
yep for the last 40 something years. I've watched its demise
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Just one more thing as "Colombo" would say, when reinstalling the zinc anodes make shure the lube is dielectric as the anode must have contact with the motor to work.😁
Great video Thanksgiving. Any suggestions for a service manual for my 2020 DF175A
I bought the entire thing for mine on Amazon it comes on a CD and you can get the cord the plug to plug your engine in to do your own Diagnostics same as a mechanic
I have a 2013 Mercury Verado 200 and want to run Rydlyme through the engine block. I have removed the poppert and the thermostat, can I just run the water into the thermostat location and have it runout the poppet and the drain in the lower unit and recycle back into the thermostat for a couple hours?
you can do what ever ya want
Capt Dave's Sport Fishing, Thank you for your advice and explanations! I bought the same sump pump for various flushing on my New Suzuki df200. I live up north where it freezes. I know outboards self drain, but, I like to run the pink non toxic antifreeze. its cheap insurance and includes corrosion protection. Is it possible with the Suzuki, to pump several gallons of the antifreeze through the flush port with the sump pump and call it a day? Or, would I be better off running this through the muff's once the engine is warm? Many thanks for your advice! :)
Number one it's going to drain so it's never going to hold any liquid in the engine what I'm doing is to descale and get rid of dirt salt nothing to do with winterizing I'd consult other outboard owners I know most people take off their lower unit and service it with water pumps a new gear lube over the winter other than that I don't know what they do in winter time up there
Many thanks! We have alot of river mid and silt. I will be following your descaling process as well!
Dave, Great video!
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Hi.
How can I order fhis product. RYDLYME LIQUID PLEASE
Iam from KSA
I need it seriously
no idea what KSA means...GOOGLE + RYDLYME = RESULTS??
@@CaptDavesSportfishing KSA MEANS KINGDOM OF SAUDIA ARABIA
@@CaptDavesSportfishing Thanks for for your videos.
You are agod mechanic
If you want to really see what it removes, then pour some of the used flush fluid into a jar and neutralize it with some baking soda water. you will not believe the solids that come out.
I can see plenty after a flushing with Rydlyme descaler. Have video(s) all about it.
Thank you!
Hey Capt. first time boat owner here.
When you say you ran your motor in the bucket for 3 hours… how much throttle are you giving it? Just putting it in gear or more? Or keeping it in neutral? And do you run it at the same rpms the whole time?
ran the descaler thru it for 3 hours. Motor is not running
@@CaptDavesSportfishing got it thanks!
Capt. Dave, I have 2008 DF140, have you made any changes to the way you flush your motor since you last video? Thanks for the information!
have no clue, I run my engine out in a big barrel after every and my engine is absolutely squeaky clean inside I will never ever use those flushing ports.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing why don't you use the flushing ports?
@@wazup3333 because the shit water I run in it will not flush out the motors "FUEL COOLER". You can run the motor on the flushing ports, ONLY in idle. Instead I use a 70 gallon barrel.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing are you saying you need higher rpm to flush the cooler?
@@wazup3333 no a running motor with lots of clean water. if you run in crappy dirty water like I do. my fuel cooler clogged up on me by using the stupid flush ports for 4 years. caused me all kinds of trouble I have videos all about it on the playlist on my website that's about my boat
Please help me to do the compression test to see how good is the engine and I have my mind at ease.
I'm not a mechanic
I'm a shade tree maintenance fishing guide with no money to buy more new motors.
great Video Dave thank you for posting
your engines only ''full of it''.....if you run in crap/mud/dirt water.
How many gallons is that Rubbermaid Tote, looks like the Water Trough they have on their website but the smallest one they have is 100 gallons... that's way too big. Yours looks like a perfect size for outboard flushing.
75 I believe p
Hay Dave where did you buy 75 gal. rubbermaid tub?
My motors don’t have any andos they are from 50s and 60s an a 115 hp 1984 Evinrude can’t find none
What am I supposed to do say I'm sorry, I'm running a charter boat for a business and a livelihood so none of that stuff means anything to me
Love this guy
I went to Apex's website, looked at the SDS and it is only a 5-9% solution of hydrochloric acid. 5 ounces of muriatic acid (pool acid) per 6 gallons of water wil get you 5%. Much cheaper.
I don't give a shit whatever it is it works I'm not worried about the chemistry
@russellwolter5153 that's an incorrect dilution. More like 1 gallon of muriatic to 3 gallon of water. 1 gallon of muriatic makes of 35% of hca. When you dilute 3:1 I think you drop tge hca to around 12% which is still quite strong. I believe rydlyme is just under 10% hca. But I heard it has other active ingredient that are inhibitors to help prevent corrosion.
you said i can send you anything. I have some unpaid bills i'll send you. lol
to make WORK easier!
Great video
Wondering if white vinegar (very acidic) would assist if watered down a bit. I know it dissolves rust but not sure what it does to aluminum and various stainless steels.
Doesn't do diddly.
Yes. Half vinegar and half water will work over a bit of time flushing through.
@@wirplit so does warm water in my barrel.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing Clean water will take out some of the crap but a strongish vinegar solution 50% say will dissolve the salts and crud. Run through a few dozen times over a period definately cleans the inside. Certainly worked for me.
@@wirplit this is a old motor and a old video. I have a newer Suzuki 250 that just turned 2 yrs. It's clean as a whistle inside it. I just let the water in my barrel warm up a bit and it works fine. It gets well used and every trip it gets run out. 50% vinegar or 77 gallons is a big expense. And this motor will hopefully be Gone at 1000 hrs for a new one anyhow.
Great video. Where did you get your service manual? I've been looking for one for my 2018 Suzuki DF 250, and can't seem to find one.
WHAT I HAVE: amzn.to/2OX2S3W, and never use those crap flushing ports on the motor!! (especially in nasty dirt water or saltwater) Use a barrel ❗ It not only helps flushing ''correctly'', but washes off the drive shaft bearings. That can corrode if left setting up. ALWAYS, do maintenance: FYI, th-cam.com/video/mFRrNnS2H7w/w-d-xo.html on amazon now, but this is a nice investment to have. Use mine daily: amzn.to/3dqtODo
@@CaptDavesSportfishing Thanks for the info. Hope to see you on the water after I get back to the states. I'm down towards Green Cove.
@@christopheratkinson7153 doubt that...green cove is way, way outa my zone. I'm a Mayport jetty boat, and around there. Furthest down river I go is, Trout river mouth, northside of Jax. Either way you're in dirt water too.
Check out Browns Point Marine.
Capt Dave, after getting nowhere with Salt Away, I just ran a rydlyme flush through my zuke 140. This was long overdue. 1 gal of rydlyme diluted with 1 gal of H2O. I was surprised to see how quickly the water got HOT. My temp alarm never went off but it was getting hot to the point of being concerning so I shut it down after 15 - 20 minutes. Hot bath water. Do you experience this when flushing your engine. It was only 2 gallons total so maybe this was to be expected with the small volume and no cool water being introduced. Regardless it made a HUGE improvement, but it needs another flush. Before and after pic's are incredible.
Is there a way to know when the thermostat opens?
Saved a couple of bucks on shipping by buying direct from Apex Engineering and not using Amazon.
did what you saw....ran mostly thru the flusher on motor. not running. t-stats and anodes out. I wouldn't do thru a set of muffs, and do not run motor! if so no wonder it got hot. t-stats need to be out and all anodes.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing Yes I had anodes out, but took the t stat out this time and used a submersible pump (25 gpm) to feed the flush port. It's only getting a trickle - it's barely weeping out of the tell tale, I see that you are getting a nice pee stream using a submersible. Yet when I dunk the boat at the ramp and run it I get a better stream but probably not as good as it should be. For some reason the submersible wont work as well as when dunking and using the intakes. My conclusion is that the internal water pump must be more efficient than the submersible and that I probably still have some blocked passages yet I flushed the Rydlyme for about an hour. I'm not sure what I should do from here.
@@ericbrockett3226 do exactly what I did. 25 ghp pump isnt diddly! I used a 1680 ghp.
@@CaptDavesSportfishing Sorry my pump is 25 gpm = 1500 gph. your pump is 28 gpm = 1680 gph. I'm using a similar submersible pump.
@@ericbrockett3226 then similar results should happen
Wonder if it would be any advantage to the treatment before changing anodes? May make removal of anodes easier. Love you videos.
Rydlyme dissolves anodes, (as per instruction) so most likely you'd get more junk flowing thru the motor. I don't want to add more of anything but.... CLEAN. And the anodes aren't that hard to take out. Just need the correct items per the service manual. In my case the 10mm "jack bolts" used to pull them out.
Capt Dave, what size bucket do you have the motor in?
70, find similar here: www.amazon.com/shop/captdavessportfishingcharters
I have a cobra 194 Yamaha 150 2 stroke.
My engine is 5 yrs old now. Still runs like new. Maybe because of freshwater.
How can boat engines overheat when they are cooled with cold water. Even 90F water temp is cold to an engine. The coolant in your truck engine is much hotter than that and still cools your truck. First time i hear boat engines can overheat. If anything i thought they always run cold. I have never once flushed my motor in 5 years. Dont even have those muffs. I better sell mine in another 5 yrs :)
you're the typical freshwater guy, who thinks because of it being fresh water your immuned...FRESHWATER can have plenty of contaminants in it, and dirt. Mixed with heat, turns to clogs in small water passages in your cooling system in the motor. ''I'd never buy that motor off of you.'' 4-STROKE motors especially, have 10 pounds of motor stuffed into a 5 pound sack!! The water here is many times 87 degrees, in south florida even warmer, at 90 degrees!!.....HEAT generated under the cowling is alleviated via cooling systems like FUEL COOLERS as I stated in my wrap up portion at the end, fuel can vaporize!! Also oil coolers etc.
The thermostat makes the motor run warmer not cooler unless it starts to run hot.
My guess is it will not last another 5 years.
@@BlastedKat stereo typical freshwater guy, right. more concerned about the diameter of a ugly stik blank on a catfish rod than outboard motor health.
Thermostat makes the motor run hot ?.. No it makes it warm up quicker to working temp .its when it doesn't open engine will stay in cold running mode and then overheat. essey to test but cheap to throw away and replace .
Great information 👍
You can get a bore scope at Harbor Freight
YEAH I KNOW NOW.
you have to taste it to see if what your doing is going to work
don't quit the day job....
How is the Rydlime on your impeller?Because I just changed mine
has no effect on rubbers, it attacks organics only. Go to their website do your own research.
Good video Cap! How much did you dilute the Rydlyme with water?
I can't remember. 2 gallons in 30 gallons of water?
Also what type of grease did you use around the O Rings?
@@CaptainBobby74 any
10-4!
Those boroscopes/endoscopes are pretty cheap these days. Many less than $25 on Amazon
yeah I know...but didn't have one on me '''this day''
I wonder if that would KILL the Zebra Mussels here in the midwest.
I'm sure....it will completely desolve sea shells. I've seen the video.