Hi Dave, at the end of last yr I bought a boat with 2 X BF90d's, when I connected a hose to flush zero water passed through either engine, trying to get answers was like hitting constant brick walls, I've just found your video, I'm all over it, thank you it's perfect! I'm a little nervous to remove/replace the covers but i'm going for it! Many thanks, great video,
Yeah I had the same challenges with finding info on how to unclog the cooling system which is why I went down that rabbit hole and did the videos. Super easy to pull the side panels and get to all the parts and pieces you need to get that thing flushing and the water flowing as it should. Recommend just go through it all while you have the panels - you will be glad you did.
Dave I really appreciate your quick reply!!! So I went for it, the cover came off easy enough although the first bolt sheared , which I think is the same as the one that is sheared ion your engine? So I was v gentle with the rest! Eventually I got to examine the flush valve, the securing bolt was missing!? The plastic valve housing was seized in place, when I freed it I found that inside was caked in dried salt etc, after some cleaning through etc I was so pleased to get water flowing through!! Whoop whoop, I'll carry on tomoro, thank you again!!!! I wouldn't have done it without your video!@@davecavanaugh66
BF90 - this helped a lot. I have never had my lower side cowls off. I found my two thermostats last year - 5 years and 130 hours in saltwater, flushed each trip, but both were clogged. Replaced them and started using a salt-remover flush. Now I've cleaned out the pressure valve and flush valve. If you remove the rear cowl latch you can access the hidden bolt for the pressure valve cover. And yes, add a couple of washers to make it easy next time. Water pump looks great. This makes me happy. :)
Thank you Dave. I must have watched this video a dozen times, and learn something each time. I have a pair of 2002 BF90a2. I believe only one thermostat. About to do the Cavanaugh Rydlyme Flush. Let you know about the grime.
I learned about it on TH-cam from a guy named Captain Dave who guides out of Jacksonville Florida. I just applied the same principles as it pertains to the Honda. It certainly works for me.
Thank you so much for making these vids 1000% this is the 2nd time this season you've saved my ass and helped me save a ton of $ from getting ripped off by a mechanic. Earlier I had a fuel pump issue and that vid saved me. Now I apparently sucked up a bunch of turds in my motor last weekend on the marsh and this vid saved me. Couldnt thank you enough great detail and not a bunch of senseless talking.
I got a gallon of the RYDLYME de-scaler - had never heard of this product before. Replaced the poppet valve with a new one, removed both thermostats and the flush port valve, and did a 2-hour flush in a storage bin with a 1/2 HP submersible pump rented from home depot. Replaced the pee hose with one that would pump back into the bin, about 5 gallons of water and the gallon of rydlyme. I'll tell you what - I am absolutely shocked at what came out of this motor - SHOCKED!!!! 150 hours on this one, nearly all in saltwater. And it has always been flushed after use - even started using the CRC Salt-rid flushing attachment and flushing agent. From what I gather, there was enough residual salt in the motor that I would get a gel-like build up of salt crystals behind the thermostats, so that when they opened not enough water was flowing. Each time I got a overheat buzzer I would pull them and there was always salt crystals caked in them. Of course you can't get all the salt out of the jacket from the thermostat ports. Tested both thermostats - both open at rated temp, but they are so small and open so little that any salt residue is going to plug them. This should solve my over-temp problems for sure. Again, thanks so much for the advice - saved me a GIANT headache. Rdylyme is dabomb. 👍
Sorry I don’t. When it comes to the various audio/visual alarms, there is whole series of troubleshooting diagrams in the service manual you will have to purchase. Link to the manual is in the video description box.
Dave, I ran into the same problem as you, the stats and flush port were full of crud. Running a descaler through it now. Where did you get ( download) the maintenance manual from? I bought the Seloc manual, but that’s hard to follow, with a number of different engines.Also, who do you order parts through? Thanks
Hi Dave thanks for your video very helpful, I was just wondering what your thoughts are on flushing your outboard submerged just in the bucket with the adequate concentrate ratio of salt away/water etc rather then running muffs and the hose. A lot of people do this do you think it’s a better way in regards to water pressure and circulation. Thanks
Probably nothing wrong with doing that but I can tell you that “salt away” and other products like it aren’t enough to fully clean the inner passages on motors used in saltwater all the time. That’s why I recommend a yearly 2 hour flush with Rydlyme to break dry own that build up. I learned my lesson which is why I show that process in the video.
Dave: thanks for the detailed video on Honda cooling systems. I followed your procedure on my 2006 BF75 because I have a "shut down on overheat" issue when idling on the hose after a few minutes Still haven't solved that yet but getting closer. Just wanted to let you know that in the process of troubleshooting I ended up removing the temp sending unit (there are three) from the block ( starboard side, above the fuse box, sorta behind the ECM} and running the motor on the hose. Flushing wasn't my intention, but a TON more scale and debris came out of that hole. Might be worth doing on a neglected motor like mine. Remove the ECM and tie it out of the way. Also, re-attach the sending unit to the wiring harness and just let it dangle out of the way. I ran mine for ten minutes and there was still stuff coming out. And this was AFTER I flushed with Rydlyme as per your video. Thanks again
Hey Mark - great info. I have lots of questions, wish you did a video 😁. When you say there are three temp sending units on the block, are they all in the same location behind the ECM? When you say running on a hose, do you mean using earmuffs? It’s unbelievable the amount of sediment and corrosion that builds up in these motors when you run in saltwater.
Hi Dave, Thanks so much for your videos, I have just purchased a BF80. After watching your video Im looking to make the regular flushing as easy as possible, I'm thinking of a flush tank that has an element in it to heat the water to around 70 deg c so as both thermostats open, pumping the water into the flush port as you do but probably using vinegar or diluted muriatic acid regularly say once every 5 flushes. the hot water will ensure a better flush without having to start the motor for any length of time. really appreciate your thoughts on this. cheers Gary
I actually had my tell tale pop off on the water today. I am thinking about putting a hose clamp on it because it’s a day ruined stupid repair that can’t be done on the water. Strange it has one to at the block but not on the discharge itself.
I have a small zip tie on mine. But yes that’s an issue that is often overlooked. I have another video showing a similar problem where one of my hoses popped off on the port side of my motor which flooded the bottom half of the motor. So I replaced several of my hoses with small hose clamps. It’s not good when these pop off while you’re on the water - especially salt water.
@@davecavanaugh66 Glad to hear I’m not the only one. Luckily it’s just fresh water so no worries with that. I was think of putting a zip tie on so I will do that. Thanks so much!!
Hello dave, thanks for the videos they really helped me. I have a 07 honda bf90d. I have a leaking water pressure relief valve. I am anticipating rusted stuck bolts because of severe corrosion. If worse case and I need to replace entire mount block is it fairly straight forward and do you have a video in removing that. Thank you so much for your response
Unfortunately I don’t have a video to replace the mount case. That’s a tough one and a horrible design to get to that area of the motor if your bolts are completely corroded/rusted. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Hello, I am in the process of disassembling the mount block because I too have corroded pressure relief bolts that I cannot remove. Any tips on removing?
Thanks Dave,this is such a though and informative video. I feel your pain as my early carb model BF 75 had experienced very little love in its earlier life. I've gone through all the flush valves and even though I flush after every use they still clog with salts. Not sure if Honda could have designed things better but it's a great money making exercise for them with all, the new seals and baskets needed during these procedures. I notice your Showa PTT unit looks in great shape. Mine wasn't and I had to buy and have shipped from the States to the UK a used replacement unit. Luckily it is a good unit but such purchases are always a gamble. To get to the point, I would highly recommend activating the manual pressure relief valve on the unit from time to time to keep it free. This is why I had to replace the whole unit as it was stuck fast. My boat is kept berthed and the PTT unit is nearly completely and constantly pickled in saltwater so I make sure the whole unit, including the release valve is smothered in grease to prevent or rather slow down corrosion. I'll check out your other vids. Cheers from Suffolk, UK.👍
Hey Adrian - learning something from you. So what you are saying is the manual screw for the Power Trim and Tilt needs to be greased up and tested from time to time to ensure it works and doesn’t corrode/freeze up - is that correct?
@@davecavanaugh66 Hi Dave, the manual release valve should be located through a small hole in your port saddle bracket, if it's the same as earlier models. It's a large slotted screw retained in place with a large circlip to prevent it being completely removed. Due to immersion in saltwater my earlier one had seized solid and the best way to keep it free is to periodically turn and close it. The valve enables the engine to be lowered manually in the event if an electrical or motor failure. Your engine is fitted with a Showa unit like mine, so I am assuming it is configured the same. They are extremely complicated systems, and similarly expensive so they need to be loved! Let me know when you find it, but I would hope there is reference made to it in the service manual too. Good luck!
@@adrianwilding2912 gotcha - yep I know exactly what you are talking about. Just wanted to make sure I was understanding properly. I have tested mine once or twice but not something I do regularly. I will start doing it now that I know it’s a problem area since I’m in salt water a lot as well. Really appreciate the heads up…thanks for sharing!
Dave , your flush valve connector .Is that a genuine Honda part or is there a universal hose fitting that can be used . Great vids by the way ,they are a help
If you are talking about that green hose - I bought that on Amazon - parts are listed in the description area. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D51VBF8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@davecavanaugh66seriously thanks a ton, definitely doesn’t seem too challenging. I have 2 bolt hole spots that have a hairline crack I guess from someone over torquing on reassembly. Also how has that aftermarket starter held up?
Hi Dave, Denis here from south africa. boaught a honda BF90 D. a Running it for about 6 months now in mixture of sea water and fresh, i do fluch it after every use, regular services carried out. a sudden problem came about recently while flushing with the ears, teltale is pumping brilliantly, no issues there. but, what i have found is that very little water comes out the propeller/exhaust. Lots of water coming out by the annodes. water also steams, now i do understand water is pumped into the exhaust area for cooling, is the steam normal. i have seen on other vidios that this also happens, and not that much water out the exhaust. thanx Denis
Hey Denis - mine sort of flows equally out the various exits. Never hot or steamy which would concern me. Have you changed the water pump and thermostats?
Well that’s a little out of my league, but my guess is something is shorting out, pulling too much power, or the fuse is too light or cabling is too light. Has it always had an issue or is this a new problem the just started occurring? Does it immediately blow or does it take some time to blow? Have you removed the light bulb?
Hi Dave, thanks for this video very infor.ative im down under in NZ and I've got a newer 2020 BF90D outboard that has low hours approx 90. The temp light has come on on the controller but not the buzzer. The tell tail is working and motor doesn't seem to be over heating. What would be the first thing I should check?
Few questions: How many hours? Have you ever changed/cleaned the thermostats or water pump? Is it only used in salt water? How often do you flush it. Do you flush with flush hose (not running)? And also flush with ears (running)? Does it alarm at idle or only when RPMs are up? Bottom line is start with the simple stuff first like the check/clean the thermostats followed by the water pump.
Thanks for the prompt response. It has about 90hrs, I'm the second owner and I've had it for a year and it's just had its annual service. I've never changed any pumps or thermostats and I don't know its previous history. I run it 50/50 in fresh and salt water. I always flush with water and salt away after being in salt water. I use the flush hose (not running.) It doesn't alarm it's just the light that comes onI wondered if it was a sensor?
@@LuckyJensen-ot8cd good run down. Could be a sensor if the light is the only indicator. That would drive me crazy not knowing though. I would check my thermostats as a first step.
Dave, really appreciate the videos! After my last day on the water when I disconnected the flush port connector to connect my garden hose and flush it, the waterjoint cap connected to the engine came off. It appears to be intact but I cannot figure out how to reconnect it. Does the lower engine cover need to be removed to do this? And if so how is the cap held in place? The boat is docked on the water too. Will I need to pull it to reconnect the cap? Any advice/insight would be appreciated.
Hey Kris - trying to visualize your issue, but I would say if you can’t see where/how to connect it, you will probably need to remove the side panels. It’s a pain and be careful not to lose your bolts and bushings. Things tend to fly or fall off when removing them. If you are on the water, you definitely want something under the motor to catch stuff.
Dave, really appreciate the prompt response! 42:45 43:25 43:34 of the video should help with the visualization of the issue. I believe waterjoint cap is the name of plastic nozzle that you connect the flush hose to on the side of the lower engine panel. I can’t figure out how to reattach this piece. There is a hole that it goes into on the panel but it doesn’t seem to go that far through or have the length (or sufficient thread) to bolt a washer/nut onto the back. Also don’t see anything the “click” in to. If that helps and you have any additional insight I would really appreciate it!
@@KrisGronau take a look at the parts manual on Boats.net - Engine Cover/Under Cover - looks like you are taking about Parts 5 & 32. To get that put back together, you will have to pull the starboard side cover panel. To be on the safe side, I would first order the parts just in case there is a reason this came apart.
Got it, thanks! One more question, dose this part have any function in the engine other than holding the hose when not in use? If it doesn’t serve any other function, can I just cap the hose and secure it while in use. If possible I would prefer to keep the boat in the water for the season and address this when I do my end of year annual maintenance. Thoughts?
Great video thanks for sharing . I have an issue where my flush valve is backfeeding and leaking out when motor is running. What would cause this? I pulled and cleaned flush valve and pressure relief valve. Ordered all new parts now for it relief and flush valve and all related components. Hoping that will solve this problem. Any info will be much appreciated . Cheers
There are a few places in the video talks about cleaning the flush port and valve. If it has a bunch of sediment built up, the valve won’t seal properly. Use a small screw driver and small wire brush set from a gun cleaning kit to get it cleaned out. Also squirt some CLR up in there to break things up when cleaning it out. Lastly, make sure you have all the parts including the spring which will keep the valve sealed. Also use a little gasket maker to help seal it when it’s seated. I show all this in the video. Mine had issues and now it works great.
Thanks for getting back to me. Maybe I should of ordered the spring too. I will definately clean it out some more and try the clr . Also had the poppet valve out and now leaks but I’ll try the gasket maker . Thanks for the great video !
@@jong8125 yeah on older motors, it’s hard to get a good seal when there’s corrosion and pitting, so gasket maker is a must. Definitely get that spring for the flush valve. Lots of trial and error.
I've recently purchased a boat and motor it's a 1995 bf40 Honda 4-stroke but I've noticed that the after I get home from boating it has the side leg right where it touches the water seems to be warm warmer to the hand than it should be and I'm wondering is that a sign that I'm not getting good water flow through the motor after watching your video it made me assume that that might be the case and my understanding was two that this boat and motor set 10 years in a garage unused
Not quite sure what you are saying here. What is a side leg? Is the motor peeing water? If it was sitting for 10 years, has the water pump been changed?
Thanks for making this video it’s really helped me with my Honda BF75D I’ve been putting off a few jobs not having the confidence to tackle them I’ll be working on it this weekend with the info you gave in this vid 👍😎
Great Videos. I have a 2009 BF90D with about 700 hours on it. I do have one small problem in that there is a leak in the lower Anode on the crankcase head. I have been trying to find information on how to change this out, but with little luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
So there are two anodes in the head area that are only accessible if remove the head water jacket cover which is more involved. I have my local shop do mine at the same time they check my valve clearance which is supposed to be done every 200 hours.
Dave, I have a BF90 with similar issues regarding heating. Did you have to open the head for cooling troubleshooting? I see the lower housing was opened up, but didn't see any engine block troubleshooting.
First things to look at when you are having overheating issues are your head and block thermostats. I show that in the book around the 1:45 minute mark as well as hands on removal around the 20 minute mark.
@@davecavanaugh66 The entire water pump and housing were replaced, nothing was damaged on the impeller or housing, but replaced with new Honda OEM. The temp red light and solid alarm until key is turned off. Have recently ran Rydlyme through the engine for 4 hours. Only thing left is cracking water jacket to inspect, and I have replaced the two temp sensors. I am not sure but seems the head temp sensor is in water but the block sensor looks like only uses metal mounting. (no water came out under pressure)
@@cristinadaniel9550 wow that’s about everything I was thinking. Does the motor shut off after 20-30 seconds when alarm sounds? Does it sound off at idle or just under power/pressure?
Hi Dave. Karl here in Australia. Thank you for this video. I did have one question that I'm hoping you can answer. There's some telltale holes at the back of the gear casing up the top near the oil fill plug (two on each side) you can see water squirting out when the engine is running. I'm trying to get my head around why there would even be water in that section where the pump is housed. Do you have any idea? Cheers Karl
I have replaced my fuse and the rectifier directly behind the fuse. I can’t remember how mine blew but I think it was something stupid I did like hooking up the battery backwards or something 🤪. The rectifier is what converts AC to DC for charging the battery. Replacing the rectifier will also ensure steady charging voltage.
Thank you very much. Great video,helped me a lot! I got newer honda bf100a,difference is in intenal zinc anodes ,much easier to remove on bf100. May i ask,how much internal anodes got honda 90d ?
Thank you Dave for this video. I couldn't make to work cold flush on my Honda BF60 2014. I used "garden hose" connection, but water didn't go into the motor. Motor was cold. Does it mean I have a lot of salt inside or just need more water pressure?
@@davecavanaugh66 you won't believe, it was exact the port full of salt and that is why the valve with a spring was blocked. I cleaned it and the other pipe as you did in your video and ... magic! now my motor can be cold flushed!!! Dave, you made my summer and saved my motor! Thanks a lot, it was not easy to find helpfull info. Seams our marine service is not interested to clean motors. And I was even criricised by other boat owners saying that nobody flushes motors in our salty North Sea and "everything is ok". God save 'em. :) After 10 min flushing I started the motor and controls water flow was so strong like never was! I'm so happy!
@@justin8mux awesome. It’s really important to flush with fresh water on the flush port AND also on ear muffs to ensure all passages get cleaned. I also highly highly recommend doing a full descaling flush once a year to ensure all passage ways are clear. In the video I show how to do this with a commercial grade product called Rydlyme.
Hi Dave, do you know from where I can test the oil pressure with a screw in oil tester gauge? My. alarm buzzer on the throttle display is going off for oil though I have full clean oil in the dipstick and oil 300 hrs on engine? I see in the parts diagram there are two sensors, I can only locate the one under the oil filter that has a green attachment. I tried disconnecting it and turning key but the buzzer persists and light indicator is on for oil.
@@davecavanaugh66 Motor starts, not a problem starting it. The light buzzer doesn't stop. It wasn't under water. I'll try a compression test tomorrow, just wanted to run it and warm the engine up before I did it but am nervous about running with that buzzer going off. I start having heavy light grey smoke coming out the exhaust if I run it for more then 2 minutes so I stop the engine. Temp alarm doesn't go off, the head doesn't feel hot, just warm.
High pressure oil sensor is near the oil filter on port side. Low pressure oil sensor is about 6” behind the oil cap near the top of the motor on the port side.
@@davecavanaugh66 dang I just did this for 2 hours with regular Rydlyme. Was super potent. Hope I didn’t mess anything up. Didn’t realize there was a marine version till after.
@@jaisonlee007 - Honestly I think it’s the same thing - just a different label. As long as it was mixed with water and you did a good rinse after, you should be good. Did you get any sediment out of it?
I don't have any water coming out of my water pressure relief valve tube (I can't take off the pressure relief valve aka poppit as the bolts are rusty and stripped but when I attach a tube long enough for me to blow into it, I can blow air and it is not blocked so thinking to leave it alone) but I do have water coming out of the nipple at 12:30 and 24:50 in your video. Why would I not have water coming out of the pressure relief valve tube as shown at 25:10. Thanks!
Water should flow from the port side nipple coming out of the mount case then go up to the water jacket under the VST. From the VST, it flows to the Poppet valve cover nipple so if you pull the hose off the Poppet valve jacket, water should be coming out of that tube. If not, the you have a clog upstream which you will need to trace back.
@@davecavanaugh66 Thanks Dave, it's flowing now. I checked all the cooling sytem spots you did in the video and they are all good now. I even hooked up a hose like you did and look off the lower unit. My oil alarm is still going off, any idea where to hook up a oil tester to? Is it the by the sensor under the oil filter with the green attachment?
doing a flush on my 90 right now but I'm not getting any flow through the head thermostat. Am using salt away, a 350 watt/7000 L/hr submersible pump and both thermostats out. Water is flowing through the telltale. This is the first time I have gone to this level of flush so i may have some constriction somewhere. The thermostats are both working to spec although the block one was severely encrusted.
I can tell you first hand some sump pumps may not work - they are really designed for volume and not so much pressure which may be why it won’t push to the top of the head/block. No worries though, you may just need to run the motor (with the thermostats in) in the bucket with you flush mixture until it gets hot, then shut it down, let it cool and repeat. Not ideal and takes a while but it works.
@@davecavanaugh66 thanks Dave. Will keep at it. The Honda flush pipe appears to act as a natural flow reducer which then limits head height. There is plenty of flow from the pump when it's not connected.
@@swain429 correct - that reminds me - when you use the flush port with the sump pump, you will need to remove the flush port valve to get unrestricted flow. I show that in the video.
@@swain429 ok good deal. Really curious if Saltaway will be a powerful enough to get get out all the crusty crap. Took me a few rounds using Rydlyme. I’m interested to know how it goes. Good luck!
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience, Dave! Just realized from your video that the head thermostat has two types (standard /cold water) ... Looks my issue of loosing power on mid range rpm, which I have on cold water only (below 3 C), related to my standard one choice..... Bad luck, I've already changes both thermostats trying to resolve issue.... :-( Honda doesn't allow to use engine all year around, right? .... Don't want to have summer and winter thermostats .....
Thanks for your reply, Dave... No, I've got a standard (60 C) thermostat on my 2014 BF90DK2 LRTA MARINE ENGINE, JPN, VIN# BBCJ-1100001 TO BBCJ-1199999 I believe issue is that engine wouldn't warms up enough on cold water, so it cannot run on high rpm, temperature overheat indicator and buzzer are activated, and speed is reduced automatically according to the user manual. Just got a diagnostic tool - no fault codes at all. So, I'm wandering if cold water thermostat (72 C) would help, but my service manual doesn't have any reference to that option and I couldn't find p/n for 72 C option as well .... :-( The 19300-ZW9-003 is for 60 C. Appreciate if can say an expert word or have that p/n handy. I'm not alone with that question on the www .
@@apelipenko that’s the only one I could find that was 72c. Seemed to fit quite a few models, so for $30 bucks, it might be worth a shot if the diameter is correct. But to be honest, not sure this is your issue and it’s hard for me to believe it would lose power after being warmed up. My guess is it’s something else, but hey it’s worth a shot if that’s what you think it is.
I have he BF 75 didn t know 2 thermostats I just changed one, Now I have to check other one on block ..If can find it, I getting water in oil told could be thermostat
@@davecavanaugh66 I didn t think was posable. few people told me could me. One guy on outboard form said he finds lot of Honda s and Yamha's with thermostat stuck open and water gets in oil?? The top one was stuck open. it was A bitch to get out. needed be changed .so I try if don t fix it I ll have to find A honda shop to bring it to. Bet be big job ??
@@toddbollen1455 well that’s a new one on me - never heard that one. Those two systems are isolated from each other. Could be seal somewhere deep in the motor that failed and causing water to get in to the oil or it overheated and blew a head gasket or something is cracked.
@@davecavanaugh66 Thats what I thought all so. But guy on forum when works on outboards told me Honda and Yama s known for it said thermostat gets stuck open and condensation gets in there. Found other thermostat and was stuck open. was bitch to get out,, SO see what happens. Have feeling tho going need A big motor job done . But worth A try I have fishing trip coming up . O ll mostly be using troll motor and not going to far .Tho motor has been running great. I wouldn t of noticed it if didn t check oil.
There are only two thermostats - the block and head as shown in the video. The other thing that looks sort of like a thermostat on the back/bottom of the motor is actually called a water pressure relief valve….also shown in the video.
Dave can i ask you one question regarding cooling water pressure relife valve? I have badly corroded bolt head which holds valve cover ( same bolt you did modification with washers). So i want to remove it without removing cylinder head for easier access. Is it possible to remove just oil pump without removing cylinder head, on that way i will get enough space to aproach valve cover bolt.Thank in advance
Whew that’s a tough one because that back bolt is so hard to get to. I almost had the same problem but caught mine in time to get it out. Really not sure about oil pump removal since I never had to do that yet. I can tell you on other rusty bolts I had to go to a smaller sized socket or wrench. I will share another video I did where I use a very “rigged up” way to remove that bolt with a low profile socket which might work for you. Take a look at this video at the 5:20 mark. th-cam.com/video/Xka4RGlnCc8/w-d-xo.html
I succeed to lose and remove rusted bolt head with shallow socket for rounded head. It was really pain in a......ear but now it is stainless steel bolt baby....
Works great! It had a factory 3 blade aluminum with a 19 pitch prop. However it was slow to plane and was under performing. So I did the calculations on Solas website which told me to go with a 4 blade 15 pitch. That turned out to be a little over the top and too close to the rev limit of 6300 rpm. So I ended up going with a 17 pitch which worked out perfectly with about 5800 max rpm. I’m happy with it on this boat. It’s has a decent hole shot now and still gets up to about 33 mph top speed.
@@alexT5100 yes 4 blade 17 pitch is what works best on my boat. Again when doing these calculations, the hull type, weight, and type of performance you are seeking all matters. It’s not an exact science so it’s hard to tell how things will go until you put the prop on and try it out. I did my testing live on a local lake. Took all the props with me and changed them out on the shoreline then did a test run with each one. So if you want to test a brand new 4 blade 15 pitch prop, I have one at a great price!!!
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Dave, at the end of last yr I bought a boat with 2 X BF90d's, when I connected a hose to flush zero water passed through either engine, trying to get answers was like hitting constant brick walls, I've just found your video, I'm all over it, thank you it's perfect! I'm a little nervous to remove/replace the covers but i'm going for it! Many thanks, great video,
Yeah I had the same challenges with finding info on how to unclog the cooling system which is why I went down that rabbit hole and did the videos. Super easy to pull the side panels and get to all the parts and pieces you need to get that thing flushing and the water flowing as it should. Recommend just go through it all while you have the panels - you will be glad you did.
Dave I really appreciate your quick reply!!! So I went for it, the cover came off easy enough although the first bolt sheared , which I think is the same as the one that is sheared ion your engine? So I was v gentle with the rest! Eventually I got to examine the flush valve, the securing bolt was missing!? The plastic valve housing was seized in place, when I freed it I found that inside was caked in dried salt etc, after some cleaning through etc I was so pleased to get water flowing through!! Whoop whoop, I'll carry on tomoro, thank you again!!!! I wouldn't have done it without your video!@@davecavanaugh66
@@glenmilligan2917 awesome - glad the video helped.
BF90 - this helped a lot. I have never had my lower side cowls off. I found my two thermostats last year - 5 years and 130 hours in saltwater, flushed each trip, but both were clogged. Replaced them and started using a salt-remover flush. Now I've cleaned out the pressure valve and flush valve.
If you remove the rear cowl latch you can access the hidden bolt for the pressure valve cover. And yes, add a couple of washers to make it easy next time. Water pump looks great. This makes me happy. :)
Yep - saltwater is no joke. Good job hitting all the key spots to keep water flowing the way it’s supposed to!
Very good and very thorough. Was thinking of looking at a 2010 BF90D. . . I think this video just changed my mind. Good job and thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Dave. I must have watched this video a dozen times, and learn something each time. I have a pair of 2002 BF90a2. I believe only one thermostat. About to do the Cavanaugh Rydlyme Flush. Let you know about the grime.
I learned about it on TH-cam from a guy named Captain Dave who guides out of Jacksonville Florida. I just applied the same principles as it pertains to the Honda. It certainly works for me.
Thank you so much for making these vids 1000% this is the 2nd time this season you've saved my ass and helped me save a ton of $ from getting ripped off by a mechanic. Earlier I had a fuel pump issue and that vid saved me. Now I apparently sucked up a bunch of turds in my motor last weekend on the marsh and this vid saved me. Couldnt thank you enough great detail and not a bunch of senseless talking.
Good to hear these videos were useful 😁
I got a gallon of the RYDLYME de-scaler - had never heard of this product before. Replaced the poppet valve with a new one, removed both thermostats and the flush port valve, and did a 2-hour flush in a storage bin with a 1/2 HP submersible pump rented from home depot. Replaced the pee hose with one that would pump back into the bin, about 5 gallons of water and the gallon of rydlyme. I'll tell you what - I am absolutely shocked at what came out of this motor - SHOCKED!!!! 150 hours on this one, nearly all in saltwater. And it has always been flushed after use - even started using the CRC Salt-rid flushing attachment and flushing agent.
From what I gather, there was enough residual salt in the motor that I would get a gel-like build up of salt crystals behind the thermostats, so that when they opened not enough water was flowing. Each time I got a overheat buzzer I would pull them and there was always salt crystals caked in them. Of course you can't get all the salt out of the jacket from the thermostat ports.
Tested both thermostats - both open at rated temp, but they are so small and open so little that any salt residue is going to plug them.
This should solve my over-temp problems for sure. Again, thanks so much for the advice - saved me a GIANT headache. Rdylyme is dabomb. 👍
Great story. It’s amazing to see what comes out even when you do all the right things with flushing after each trip. Glad it worked for ya!
Do you have a video on what to do with a low oil pressure light and alarm? I have a 2014 Honda BF75D.
Sorry I don’t. When it comes to the various audio/visual alarms, there is whole series of troubleshooting diagrams in the service manual you will have to purchase. Link to the manual is in the video description box.
Dave, I just picked up a boat with a BF75D, been going through your videos and seeing what I need to check.
Thanks for taking the time to make them
Hey Jeff - glad the videos are helpful…hopefully save you some money and headache down the road…good luck!
Dave, I ran into the same problem as you, the stats and flush port were full of crud.
Running a descaler through it now.
Where did you get ( download) the maintenance manual from? I bought the Seloc manual, but that’s hard to follow, with a number of different engines.Also, who do you order parts through?
Thanks
@@jeffs9266 links are in the video description.
Thanks Dave, totally forgot to check the description
@@jeffs9266 publications.powerequipment.honda.com/details/61ZY900E3-BUNDLE
Hi Dave thanks for your video very helpful, I was just wondering what your thoughts are on flushing your outboard submerged just in the bucket with the adequate concentrate ratio of salt away/water etc rather then running muffs and the hose. A lot of people do this do you think it’s a better way in regards to water pressure and circulation.
Thanks
Probably nothing wrong with doing that but I can tell you that “salt away” and other products like it aren’t enough to fully clean the inner passages on motors used in saltwater all the time. That’s why I recommend a yearly 2 hour flush with Rydlyme to break dry own that build up. I learned my lesson which is why I show that process in the video.
Dave: thanks for the detailed video on Honda cooling systems. I followed your procedure on my 2006 BF75 because I have a "shut down on overheat" issue when idling on the hose after a few minutes Still haven't solved that yet but getting closer. Just wanted to let you know that in the process of troubleshooting I ended up removing the temp sending unit (there are three) from the block ( starboard side, above the fuse box, sorta behind the ECM} and running the motor on the hose. Flushing wasn't my intention, but a TON more scale and debris came out of that hole. Might be worth doing on a neglected motor like mine. Remove the ECM and tie it out of the way. Also, re-attach the sending unit to the wiring harness and just let it dangle out of the way. I ran mine for ten minutes and there was still stuff coming out. And this was AFTER I flushed with Rydlyme as per your video. Thanks again
Hey Mark - great info. I have lots of questions, wish you did a video 😁. When you say there are three temp sending units on the block, are they all in the same location behind the ECM? When you say running on a hose, do you mean using earmuffs? It’s unbelievable the amount of sediment and corrosion that builds up in these motors when you run in saltwater.
Hi Dave, Thanks so much for your videos, I have just purchased a BF80. After watching your video Im looking to make the regular flushing as easy as possible, I'm thinking of a flush tank that has an element in it to heat the water to around 70 deg c so as both thermostats open, pumping the water into the flush port as you do but probably using vinegar or diluted muriatic acid regularly say once every 5 flushes. the hot water will ensure a better flush without having to start the motor for any length of time. really appreciate your thoughts on this. cheers Gary
Glad to help. Sounds like you have a good plan. Got to keep the water passages clear.
Dave, you are greatly appreciated for exceptional Honda outboard Maintenance Guru.
Thank You very much.
Thanks - just a regular guy sharing my experiences (and pain). Good to hear the videos are helpful.
I actually had my tell tale pop off on the water today. I am thinking about putting a hose clamp on it because it’s a day ruined stupid repair that can’t be done on the water. Strange it has one to at the block but not on the discharge itself.
I have a small zip tie on mine. But yes that’s an issue that is often overlooked. I have another video showing a similar problem where one of my hoses popped off on the port side of my motor which flooded the bottom half of the motor. So I replaced several of my hoses with small hose clamps. It’s not good when these pop off while you’re on the water - especially salt water.
@@davecavanaugh66 Glad to hear I’m not the only one. Luckily it’s just fresh water so no worries with that. I was think of putting a zip tie on so I will do that. Thanks so much!!
Hello dave, thanks for the videos they really helped me. I have a 07 honda bf90d. I have a leaking water pressure relief valve. I am anticipating rusted stuck bolts because of severe corrosion. If worse case and I need to replace entire mount block is it fairly straight forward and do you have a video in removing that. Thank you so much for your response
Unfortunately I don’t have a video to replace the mount case. That’s a tough one and a horrible design to get to that area of the motor if your bolts are completely corroded/rusted. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Hello, I am in the process of disassembling the mount block because I too have corroded pressure relief bolts that I cannot remove. Any tips on removing?
Thanks Dave,this is such a though and informative video. I feel your pain as my early carb model BF 75 had experienced very little love in its earlier life. I've gone through all the flush valves and even though I flush after every use they still clog with salts. Not sure if Honda could have designed things better but it's a great money making exercise for them with all, the new seals and baskets needed during these procedures. I notice your Showa PTT unit looks in great shape. Mine wasn't and I had to buy and have shipped from the States to the UK a used replacement unit. Luckily it is a good unit but such purchases are always a gamble. To get to the point, I would highly recommend activating the manual pressure relief valve on the unit from time to time to keep it free. This is why I had to replace the whole unit as it was stuck fast. My boat is kept berthed and the PTT unit is nearly completely and constantly pickled in saltwater so I make sure the whole unit, including the release valve is smothered in grease to prevent or rather slow down corrosion. I'll check out your other vids. Cheers from Suffolk, UK.👍
Hey Adrian - learning something from you. So what you are saying is the manual screw for the Power Trim and Tilt needs to be greased up and tested from time to time to ensure it works and doesn’t corrode/freeze up - is that correct?
@@davecavanaugh66 Hi Dave, the manual release valve should be located through a small hole in your port saddle bracket, if it's the same as earlier models. It's a large slotted screw retained in place with a large circlip to prevent it being completely removed. Due to immersion in saltwater my earlier one had seized solid and the best way to keep it free is to periodically turn and close it. The valve enables the engine to be lowered manually in the event if an electrical or motor failure. Your engine is fitted with a Showa unit like mine, so I am assuming it is configured the same. They are extremely complicated systems, and similarly expensive so they need to be loved! Let me know when you find it, but I would hope there is reference made to it in the service manual too. Good luck!
@@adrianwilding2912 gotcha - yep I know exactly what you are talking about. Just wanted to make sure I was understanding properly. I have tested mine once or twice but not something I do regularly. I will start doing it now that I know it’s a problem area since I’m in salt water a lot as well. Really appreciate the heads up…thanks for sharing!
Dave , your flush valve connector .Is that a genuine Honda part or is there a universal hose fitting that can be used . Great vids by the way ,they are a help
If you are talking about that green hose - I bought that on Amazon - parts are listed in the description area. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D51VBF8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the video Dave, before I take on a few tasks. What does it entail to remove the lower cover cowling for the outboard? Thanks
This video shows you how to remove and replace the lower side panels/cowlings 14:30 and 42:40.
@@davecavanaugh66seriously thanks a ton, definitely doesn’t seem too challenging. I have 2 bolt hole spots that have a hairline crack I guess from someone over torquing on reassembly. Also how has that aftermarket starter held up?
After market starters are horrible if used in saltwater. Going to have to bite the bullet and get the Honda brand starter - they are expensive.
appreciate the info, your a major help.@@davecavanaugh66
Awesome ! I have a BF115 Please keep making these videos..
Thanks for the feedback
Hi Dave, Denis here from south africa. boaught a honda BF90 D. a Running it for about 6 months now in mixture of sea water and fresh, i do fluch it after every use, regular services carried out. a sudden problem came about recently while flushing with the ears, teltale is pumping brilliantly, no issues there. but, what i have found is that very little water comes out the propeller/exhaust. Lots of water coming out by the annodes. water also steams, now i do understand water is pumped into the exhaust area for cooling, is the steam normal.
i have seen on other vidios that this also happens, and not that much water out the exhaust.
thanx
Denis
Hey Denis - mine sort of flows equally out the various exits. Never hot or steamy which would concern me. Have you changed the water pump and thermostats?
Hey Dave I have a 2021 honda 200 with a HD-4 gauge. The gauge keeps blowing a fuse . Would you have any idea why? Thank you sir for any information.
Well that’s a little out of my league, but my guess is something is shorting out, pulling too much power, or the fuse is too light or cabling is too light. Has it always had an issue or is this a new problem the just started occurring? Does it immediately blow or does it take some time to blow? Have you removed the light bulb?
Hi Dave, thanks for this video very infor.ative
im down under in NZ and I've got a newer 2020 BF90D outboard that has low hours approx 90. The temp light has come on on the controller but not the buzzer. The tell tail is working and motor doesn't seem to be over heating. What would be the first thing I should check?
Few questions: How many hours? Have you ever changed/cleaned the thermostats or water pump? Is it only used in salt water? How often do you flush it. Do you flush with flush hose (not running)? And also flush with ears (running)? Does it alarm at idle or only when RPMs are up? Bottom line is start with the simple stuff first like the check/clean the thermostats followed by the water pump.
Thanks for the prompt response. It has about 90hrs, I'm the second owner and I've had it for a year and it's just had its annual service. I've never changed any pumps or thermostats and I don't know its previous history. I run it 50/50 in fresh and salt water. I always flush with water and salt away after being in salt water. I use the flush hose (not running.) It doesn't alarm it's just the light that comes onI wondered if it was a sensor?
@@LuckyJensen-ot8cd good run down. Could be a sensor if the light is the only indicator. That would drive me crazy not knowing though. I would check my thermostats as a first step.
Cheers@@davecavanaugh66 I'll start there. Much appreciate your time.
Dave, really appreciate the videos! After my last day on the water when I disconnected the flush port connector to connect my garden hose and flush it, the waterjoint cap connected to the engine came off. It appears to be intact but I cannot figure out how to reconnect it. Does the lower engine cover need to be removed to do this? And if so how is the cap held in place? The boat is docked on the water too. Will I need to pull it to reconnect the cap? Any advice/insight would be appreciated.
Hey Kris - trying to visualize your issue, but I would say if you can’t see where/how to connect it, you will probably need to remove the side panels. It’s a pain and be careful not to lose your bolts and bushings. Things tend to fly or fall off when removing them. If you are on the water, you definitely want something under the motor to catch stuff.
Dave, really appreciate the prompt response! 42:45 43:25 43:34 of the video should help with the visualization of the issue. I believe waterjoint cap is the name of plastic nozzle that you connect the flush hose to on the side of the lower engine panel. I can’t figure out how to reattach this piece. There is a hole that it goes into on the panel but it doesn’t seem to go that far through or have the length (or sufficient thread) to bolt a washer/nut onto the back. Also don’t see anything the “click” in to. If that helps and you have any additional insight I would really appreciate it!
@@KrisGronau take a look at the parts manual on Boats.net - Engine Cover/Under Cover - looks like you are taking about Parts 5 & 32. To get that put back together, you will have to pull the starboard side cover panel. To be on the safe side, I would first order the parts just in case there is a reason this came apart.
www.boats.net/catalog/honda/outboard/2007-and-later/90hp/bf90dk0-lrta-vin-bbcj-1000001-to-bbcj-1099999/engine-cover-under-cover
Got it, thanks! One more question, dose this part have any function in the engine other than holding the hose when not in use? If it doesn’t serve any other function, can I just cap the hose and secure it while in use. If possible I would prefer to keep the boat in the water for the season and address this when I do my end of year annual maintenance. Thoughts?
Great video thanks for sharing . I have an issue where my flush valve is backfeeding and leaking out when motor is running. What would cause this? I pulled and cleaned flush valve and pressure relief valve. Ordered all new parts now for it relief and flush valve and all related components. Hoping that will solve this problem. Any info will be much appreciated . Cheers
There are a few places in the video talks about cleaning the flush port and valve. If it has a bunch of sediment built up, the valve won’t seal properly. Use a small screw driver and small wire brush set from a gun cleaning kit to get it cleaned out. Also squirt some CLR up in there to break things up when cleaning it out. Lastly, make sure you have all the parts including the spring which will keep the valve sealed. Also use a little gasket maker to help seal it when it’s seated. I show all this in the video. Mine had issues and now it works great.
Thanks for getting back to me. Maybe I should of ordered the spring too. I will definately clean it out some more and try the clr . Also had the poppet valve out and now leaks but I’ll try the gasket maker . Thanks for the great video !
@@jong8125 yeah on older motors, it’s hard to get a good seal when there’s corrosion and pitting, so gasket maker is a must. Definitely get that spring for the flush valve. Lots of trial and error.
I've recently purchased a boat and motor it's a 1995 bf40 Honda 4-stroke but I've noticed that the after I get home from boating it has the side leg right where it touches the water seems to be warm warmer to the hand than it should be and I'm wondering is that a sign that I'm not getting good water flow through the motor after watching your video it made me assume that that might be the case and my understanding was two that this boat and motor set 10 years in a garage unused
Not quite sure what you are saying here. What is a side leg? Is the motor peeing water? If it was sitting for 10 years, has the water pump been changed?
Thanks for making this video it’s really helped me with my Honda BF75D I’ve been putting off a few jobs not having the confidence to tackle them I’ll be working on it this weekend with the info you gave in this vid 👍😎
Awesome - good luck - let me know if you have any questions.
Will do thanks 👍
Great Videos. I have a 2009 BF90D with about 700 hours on it. I do have one small problem in that there is a leak in the lower Anode on the crankcase head. I have been trying to find information on how to change this out, but with little luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
So there are two anodes in the head area that are only accessible if remove the head water jacket cover which is more involved. I have my local shop do mine at the same time they check my valve clearance which is supposed to be done every 200 hours.
Dave, I have a BF90 with similar issues regarding heating. Did you have to open the head for cooling troubleshooting? I see the lower housing was opened up, but didn't see any engine block troubleshooting.
First things to look at when you are having overheating issues are your head and block thermostats. I show that in the book around the 1:45 minute mark as well as hands on removal around the 20 minute mark.
@@davecavanaugh66 Yes, both thermostats were changed, and the relief valve changes as well.
@@cristinadaniel9550 has the water pump been replaced? What’s happening exactly - is the overheating warning lamp on and buzzer sounding off?
@@davecavanaugh66 The entire water pump and housing were replaced, nothing was damaged on the impeller or housing, but replaced with new Honda OEM. The temp red light and solid alarm until key is turned off. Have recently ran Rydlyme through the engine for 4 hours. Only thing left is cracking water jacket to inspect, and I have replaced the two temp sensors.
I am not sure but seems the head temp sensor is in water but the block sensor looks like only uses metal mounting. (no water came out under pressure)
@@cristinadaniel9550 wow that’s about everything I was thinking. Does the motor shut off after 20-30 seconds when alarm sounds? Does it sound off at idle or just under power/pressure?
Hi Dave. Karl here in Australia. Thank you for this video. I did have one question that I'm hoping you can answer. There's some telltale holes at the back of the gear casing up the top near the oil fill plug (two on each side) you can see water squirting out when the engine is running.
I'm trying to get my head around why there would even be water in that section where the pump is housed. Do you have any idea?
Cheers
Karl
Hi Karl - Yes that’s normal to have water flowing out those side peep holes on the lower unit.
Love your videos. Have you done one on Honda charging systems. Mine blew the 70 a fuse. Need troubleshooting ideas. Thanks
I have replaced my fuse and the rectifier directly behind the fuse. I can’t remember how mine blew but I think it was something stupid I did like hooking up the battery backwards or something 🤪. The rectifier is what converts AC to DC for charging the battery. Replacing the rectifier will also ensure steady charging voltage.
Thank you very much. Great video,helped me a lot! I got newer honda bf100a,difference is in intenal zinc anodes ,much easier to remove on bf100. May i ask,how much internal anodes got honda 90d ?
The BF90Ds have 3 externals only
@@davecavanaugh66 i found 2 internals in engine block
Thank you Dave for this video. I couldn't make to work cold flush on my Honda BF60 2014. I used "garden hose" connection, but water didn't go into the motor. Motor was cold. Does it mean I have a lot of salt inside or just need more water pressure?
You probably need to unclog the flush port or the passage way just like I showed in my video.
@@davecavanaugh66 you won't believe, it was exact the port full of salt and that is why the valve with a spring was blocked. I cleaned it and the other pipe as you did in your video and ... magic! now my motor can be cold flushed!!! Dave, you made my summer and saved my motor! Thanks a lot, it was not easy to find helpfull info. Seams our marine service is not interested to clean motors. And I was even criricised by other boat owners saying that nobody flushes motors in our salty North Sea and "everything is ok". God save 'em. :)
After 10 min flushing I started the motor and controls water flow was so strong like never was! I'm so happy!
@@justin8mux awesome. It’s really important to flush with fresh water on the flush port AND also on ear muffs to ensure all passages get cleaned. I also highly highly recommend doing a full descaling flush once a year to ensure all passage ways are clear. In the video I show how to do this with a commercial grade product called Rydlyme.
Hi Dave, do you know from where I can test the oil pressure with a screw in oil tester gauge? My. alarm buzzer on the throttle display is going off for oil though I have full clean oil in the dipstick and oil 300 hrs on engine? I see in the parts diagram there are two sensors, I can only locate the one under the oil filter that has a green attachment. I tried disconnecting it and turning key but the buzzer persists and light indicator is on for oil.
Never had that issue. Does the motor start and does the light/buzzer ever stop? Kinda wondering - was this motor ever under water?
@@davecavanaugh66 Motor starts, not a problem starting it. The light buzzer doesn't stop. It wasn't under water. I'll try a compression test tomorrow, just wanted to run it and warm the engine up before I did it but am nervous about running with that buzzer going off. I start having heavy light grey smoke coming out the exhaust if I run it for more then 2 minutes so I stop the engine. Temp alarm doesn't go off, the head doesn't feel hot, just warm.
Does the oil indicator light stay lit or go out when running?
Also is the buzzer sound continuous or intermittent?
High pressure oil sensor is near the oil filter on port side. Low pressure oil sensor is about 6” behind the oil cap near the top of the motor on the port side.
When removing side covers, instead of worrying about losing the parts in the covers, tape them to the housing!!
Whatever works
Correction: 2011 motor , 2006 Carolina Skiff
Gotcha - I replied to your other post.
Is this rydlyme Marine or regular rydlyme?
Marine a.co/d/isi2Qls
@@davecavanaugh66 dang I just did this for 2 hours with regular Rydlyme. Was super potent. Hope I didn’t mess anything up. Didn’t realize there was a marine version till after.
@@jaisonlee007 - Honestly I think it’s the same thing - just a different label. As long as it was mixed with water and you did a good rinse after, you should be good. Did you get any sediment out of it?
I don't have any water coming out of my water pressure relief valve tube (I can't take off the pressure relief valve aka poppit as the bolts are rusty and stripped but when I attach a tube long enough for me to blow into it, I can blow air and it is not blocked so thinking to leave it alone) but I do have water coming out of the nipple at 12:30 and 24:50 in your video. Why would I not have water coming out of the pressure relief valve tube as shown at 25:10. Thanks!
Water should flow from the port side nipple coming out of the mount case then go up to the water jacket under the VST. From the VST, it flows to the Poppet valve cover nipple so if you pull the hose off the Poppet valve jacket, water should be coming out of that tube. If not, the you have a clog upstream which you will need to trace back.
@@davecavanaugh66 Thanks Dave, it's flowing now. I checked all the cooling sytem spots you did in the video and they are all good now. I even hooked up a hose like you did and look off the lower unit. My oil alarm is still going off, any idea where to hook up a oil tester to? Is it the by the sensor under the oil filter with the green attachment?
which manual is that ???
Link is in the video description area
Hi dave how do u remove whole engine? 🤔
Removing the engine is beyond the scope of my videos. Definitely would consult a marine mechanic if you need to remove the engine.
doing a flush on my 90 right now but I'm not getting any flow through the head thermostat. Am using salt away, a 350 watt/7000 L/hr submersible pump and both thermostats out. Water is flowing through the telltale. This is the first time I have gone to this level of flush so i may have some constriction somewhere. The thermostats are both working to spec although the block one was severely encrusted.
I can tell you first hand some sump pumps may not work - they are really designed for volume and not so much pressure which may be why it won’t push to the top of the head/block. No worries though, you may just need to run the motor (with the thermostats in) in the bucket with you flush mixture until it gets hot, then shut it down, let it cool and repeat. Not ideal and takes a while but it works.
@@davecavanaugh66 thanks Dave. Will keep at it. The Honda flush pipe appears to act as a natural flow reducer which then limits head height. There is plenty of flow from the pump when it's not connected.
@@swain429 correct - that reminds me - when you use the flush port with the sump pump, you will need to remove the flush port valve to get unrestricted flow. I show that in the video.
@@davecavanaugh66 yes, done that. It was fairly choked with salt. I have virtually copied your video.
@@swain429 ok good deal. Really curious if Saltaway will be a powerful enough to get get out all the crusty crap. Took me a few rounds using Rydlyme. I’m interested to know how it goes. Good luck!
Excellent explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience, Dave! Just realized from your video that the head thermostat has two types (standard /cold water) ... Looks my issue of loosing power on mid range rpm, which I have on cold water only (below 3 C), related to my standard one choice..... Bad luck, I've already changes both thermostats trying to resolve issue.... :-( Honda doesn't allow to use engine all year around, right? .... Don't want to have summer and winter thermostats .....
Strange why it would lose power due to a thermostat issue. I would imagine you could just run the cold water thermostat year round.
Thanks for your reply, Dave... No, I've got a standard (60 C) thermostat on my 2014 BF90DK2 LRTA MARINE ENGINE, JPN, VIN# BBCJ-1100001 TO BBCJ-1199999
I believe issue is that engine wouldn't warms up enough on cold water, so it cannot run on high rpm, temperature overheat indicator and buzzer are activated, and speed is reduced automatically according to the user manual. Just got a diagnostic tool - no fault codes at all.
So, I'm wandering if cold water thermostat (72 C) would help, but my service manual doesn't have any reference to that option and I couldn't find p/n for 72 C option as well .... :-( The 19300-ZW9-003 is for 60 C. Appreciate if can say an expert word or have that p/n handy. I'm not alone with that question on the www .
@@apelipenko did a little search on Google and it looks like the part number for 72c thermostat is 19300-ZV5-043.
@@davecavanaugh66 That p/n is for BF90A modifications only on the Honda Marine site....
@@apelipenko that’s the only one I could find that was 72c. Seemed to fit quite a few models, so for $30 bucks, it might be worth a shot if the diameter is correct. But to be honest, not sure this is your issue and it’s hard for me to believe it would lose power after being warmed up. My guess is it’s something else, but hey it’s worth a shot if that’s what you think it is.
I have he BF 75 didn t know 2 thermostats I just changed one, Now I have to check other one on block ..If can find it, I getting water in oil told could be thermostat
Not sure the thermostats are going to be the cause of water in the oil. That’s probably something more serious like a seal or cracked head or block.
@@davecavanaugh66 I didn t think was posable. few people told me could me. One guy on outboard form said he finds lot of Honda s and Yamha's with thermostat stuck open and water gets in oil?? The top one was stuck open. it was A bitch to get out. needed be changed .so I try if don t fix it I ll have to find A honda shop to bring it to. Bet be big job ??
@@toddbollen1455 well that’s a new one on me - never heard that one. Those two systems are isolated from each other. Could be seal somewhere deep in the motor that failed and causing water to get in to the oil or it overheated and blew a head gasket or something is cracked.
@@davecavanaugh66 Thats what I thought all so. But guy on forum when works on outboards told me Honda and Yama s known for it said thermostat gets stuck open and condensation gets in there. Found other thermostat and was stuck open. was bitch to get out,, SO see what happens. Have feeling tho going need A big motor job done . But worth A try I have fishing trip coming up . O ll mostly be using troll motor and not going to far .Tho motor has been running great. I wouldn t of noticed it if didn t check oil.
@@toddbollen1455 let me know what you find out.
How many thermostats does your 90 have?
There are only two thermostats - the block and head as shown in the video. The other thing that looks sort of like a thermostat on the back/bottom of the motor is actually called a water pressure relief valve….also shown in the video.
Dave can i ask you one question regarding cooling water pressure relife valve? I have badly corroded bolt head which holds valve cover ( same bolt you did modification with washers). So i want to remove it without removing cylinder head for easier access. Is it possible to remove just oil pump without removing cylinder head, on that way i will get enough space to aproach valve cover bolt.Thank in advance
Whew that’s a tough one because that back bolt is so hard to get to. I almost had the same problem but caught mine in time to get it out. Really not sure about oil pump removal since I never had to do that yet. I can tell you on other rusty bolts I had to go to a smaller sized socket or wrench. I will share another video I did where I use a very “rigged up” way to remove that bolt with a low profile socket which might work for you. Take a look at this video at the 5:20 mark. th-cam.com/video/Xka4RGlnCc8/w-d-xo.html
I succeed to lose and remove rusted bolt head with shallow socket for rounded head. It was really pain in a......ear but now it is stainless steel bolt baby....
hello i have 2004 honda 150 would you help me how to replace thermostat whitch side hot/cold thanks
There are other videos for the 150s
th-cam.com/video/PjJ5cmPFRkc/w-d-xo.html
Hi Dave, how that stainless steel prop. working for you?
Works great! It had a factory 3 blade aluminum with a 19 pitch prop. However it was slow to plane and was under performing. So I did the calculations on Solas website which told me to go with a 4 blade 15 pitch. That turned out to be a little over the top and too close to the rev limit of 6300 rpm. So I ended up going with a 17 pitch which worked out perfectly with about 5800 max rpm. I’m happy with it on this boat. It’s has a decent hole shot now and still gets up to about 33 mph top speed.
@@davecavanaugh66 So, you are using now 17 pitch with 4 blades or 3 blades?
@@alexT5100 yes 4 blade 17 pitch is what works best on my boat. Again when doing these calculations, the hull type, weight, and type of performance you are seeking all matters. It’s not an exact science so it’s hard to tell how things will go until you put the prop on and try it out. I did my testing live on a local lake. Took all the props with me and changed them out on the shoreline then did a test run with each one. So if you want to test a brand new 4 blade 15 pitch prop, I have one at a great price!!!
Just think if outboard engines were air cooled how much more reliable they would be.
Noisy though 😁
Excellent video. Thanx.
Glad it helped
Good .iam konsult bf90... 🙏🙏
Thanks!!