Ducati Multistrada 1200 Slow Start FIX |Ep. 9|
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ต.ค. 2021
- Watch the entire Multistrada 1200 project series here: • Project Multiprobla
My 2010 MTS1200 has always been slow to start (actually, ALL Ducatis I've owned have been), which can lead to costly repairs down the road. Let's see if we can fix the problem with some new HICAP-SCDC battery and starter cables from Motolectric.
Get cables here: motolectric.com/makes/ducati.... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I own this vehicle and simply cannot thank you enough for your content. My cherished Multistrada about to hit 40k miles and this may be a great birthday gift for her for such a milestone.
Well this series has been absolutely fantastic to watch. The main reason for me is that I have owned this bike in particular for the last 5 months and I LOVE it. Seeing all the work and small details you payed attention to was awesome!
Thank you for posting! Like you, I own a couple of Ducs and do my own maintenance. I didn’t know this solution existed for my 2016 MTS 1200 Enduro. Slow starts concern me on cold camping mornings and now I know what to do. All of your videos are a big help and also aided my 18K Desmo Svc including valve adjustments which is still very similar. Well done and I owe you a pint or four. Thanks again!
Thank you Robert! Glad to hear these vids have been helpful!
What a great and helpful video!! thank you soooo much ! Greetings from Costa Rica
Here's my experience with this mod.
It was quite tricky to get the motolectric kit to my country, but with help from Michael (of motolectric) we finally managed it. He was really helpful throughout the process, and found the best and most economical courier service.
My findings during / after replacing the cables on my 2013 multistrada :
Replacement was time-consuming and tricky (especially the routing) but I got that done ok after about 90 minutes of slow, careful work. The trickiest part was finding a suitable path below the seat - there were not a lot of options, it is pretty packed in there, but I finally found a workable route. (note - on my (2013) bike the positive cable goes down the left-hand side of the bike, together with the earth cable, and is the right length to reach the starter motor from there)
The most complicated in the replacement phase was the earth bolt. This goes straight into the engine block. It came out ok, but there was a little corrosion on the threads, and getting it back in was very tricky. I will have to source a better quality new bolt and replace it sometime.
The results :
Before replacement the thing that used to worry me the most was that every now and then depressing the starter button would just result in a short groan, and then nothing. The engine wouldn't turn over. In this state, usually the next two or three presses also wouldn't turn over the engine successfully. I guess one of the cylinders was on compression stroke, and the starter motor just couldn't turn it. This would happen perhaps every 8th or 10th attempt to start - often enough to be irritating and worrying (and sometimes also embarrassing).
That problem has gone away. The engine still shows a little reluctance to spin every now and then, but (so far) I haven't had to re-try the start even once, so it seems cured.
As far as I can tell, the engine doesn't spin any faster than it used to. There might be a very small change, but I can't really tell..
From cold, the engine takes (more or less) the same time to start. Probably about 4-5 rotations, I would guess. About the only difference on cold start is that it seems to run easier from directly after start than it used to.
With the engine hot, starting is mostly quicker and more positive - typically 1-2 rotations to start, whereas it often used to take 3-5. Also, as for cold start, the engine seems to run better from immediately after start.
All in all it was worth it, although I would have to say that the improvement is not as large as I would have expected. Would I do it again? Yes. Small but worthwhile improvement.
One final thing - I have a motobatt lithium-ion battery fitted instead of the original, so the battery actually has higher CCA than the standard (about 50% higher).
Definite improvement. I wonder if even just replacing the negative terminal cable would yield an improvement. I am getting ready to sell my Multistrada primarily due to all the constant work I have to do on it compared to Japanese bikes I've had. Your videos are making me rethink things.... It does appear like getting the scanner cable from OBD Innovations may be difficult as it may still be on back order. I have an email out to them asking about availability.
I've been following the 1198s videos and doing pretty much everything by following the instructions. Got the motoelectric cables already installed and waiting on a new battery....now to mount the new mosfet regulator/rectifier..... which I'm stuck on making the bracket.... but I'm getting there thanks to the videos...
Thanks for the comment - I'm glad to hear the videos are helping! You'll get there soon enough and it will all be worth it.
I appreciate your video series. It's been immensely helpful as I perform all the maintenance on my 2011 (@45k miles atm). I found that while I had all the panels off, it wasn't that difficult to remove the old cables. They're separate from the rest of the harness, but they are zip tied in with the main harness and sub harnesses at a few points. It took me less than an hour to remove and replace the cables. Hope that helps, keep up the great work!
Did you had to remove the fuel tank to get to the cabling ? You don't have a cable lengths for me please ?
@@losminos11 I was already in the process of all the maintenance he was doing in previous videos, so I already had all the panels and tank off the bike. I don't have the lengths off-hand, but I can get the stock cable lengths when I get home.
@@losminos11 These are all rough measurements as the stock cables are difficult to straighten.
Starter to fuse box - Approx 62" eyelet to eyelet
Fuse box to battery - Approx 9" eyelet to eyelet
Ground - Approx 27 3/4" eyelet to eyelet
@@bellbini thanks a lot ;-)
This video really helped me out, so much that I got an "Exact Start" cable system for my Ducati Multistrada 1260s - And have a full review and fitting guide on my channel if anyone needs to see it on the 1260 😁
What a cracking video. I’ve got to do this to my new 1260 Multistrada. What length and diameter are the three cables.
That’s a big difference! I had no idea when I used to have a 748 that it could lead to bigger problems. When I bought mine years ago the dealership showed me that it was normal for a long start.
It is, isn't it! Well, I suppose the dealer wasn't wrong - it is "normal" for Ducatis. But that doesn't mean it is "good" for them :)
@@PracticalEnthusiast please tell me where you found the hand covers
nice video! this looks like the motorcycle equivalent of the "big 3" upgrade that the car stereo guys do; I'm in the middle of one right now on my older European car. they make kits to do this but a lot of people just put the cables together themselves.
I'd love to learn how to assemble cables like these, but I assume the crimper & dies are fairly pricey for only occasional use.
You're like a forum but in real life.... everything you're doing is like required by Ducati owners. The starter sprag is torqued to like 300 NM, it is very torqued on there.
Thanks! My goal is to make videos that have somewhat useful info :) so I just hope this is helpful (especially the before & after comparison)!
Yikes, that's really on there. I've not had to get in there to replace it before, but the pictures I've seen of the process make it seem like a pain.
Just purchased. Doing with desmo, so it will be 1000x easier to route as the bikes completelly naked.
Cheers for the tip
Liked your video but can't seem to find the replacement wiring you mentioned.
Nice bro.. Thanks for sharing..
I am defiantly considering this mod but two thing strike me about this video , listen to the bike starting at 47 seconds and the bike starting at 9.11 not much difference in the time taken to turn over the motor but the starter motor does not seem to struggle as much, which is a good thing.
other thought is, do you think by attaching the new cable to the original, you could pull them through so they follow the same routing ?
Convinced me I’m going to order some for my Panigale . 👍
Thanks for posting. It’s been a year how is it going.
I sold the bike a whole back but I still see it around from time to time. Looks like it's holding up great.
Bonjour
Je n'arrive pas a rientialisé le temoin de service surla multistrada 1200 avec obdprog, pouvez-vous me montré comme fair svp.
Another great video :)
Thank you!
Nice
Great video! Just bought these myself after watching. Can the old wires be removed with more effort (like taking off more panels etc.) or does that require modifying the stock harness?
I believe the old cables are part of the main harness. I could be wrong because I didn't dig into it that deep, but they looked like they were wrapped up with the rest of the harness.
Thank you!
I'm just doing this myself, while tackling all the jobs in your previous videos. The three cables are separate from the main harness, but zip tied along it at multiple spots. Hope that helps!
Thanks a lot, really helpful!
Great tutorial, when grounding the cables to the engine, how many cables are grounded in total, is it 2 or 3 ?
Hi, did you find out ? I'm replacing the cables today and I disconnected the original 2 grounding cables from engine block and connected 1 new instead. Resulted in no power at all, display won't come up
@Marcel Struckel You need 2 cables to be grounded on that connection, a bit tricky to get the nut on with the 2 cables, the old starter cable is the heavier of the 2 cables, that one you will just seal it of with tape and tie it up out of the way
Hi, are the new cables not supposed to piggyback the old set? So you have 2 sets of cables for each connection. Another thing I learned is to clean the electrical wiring ends both at the battery , ground and starter. Take Care
Yes, they are designed to piggyback the old cables.
I wonder if you placed the old together on the terminals if you got even better current flow, since it is just dead weight right now. It would nearly double the current path.
Hi, it's Mike from Motolectric. Since the current flow will take the path of least resistance, it will never (also) flow through the OEM wiring. But Ducati and other makers sometimes take the shortcut of connecting a negative lead from an accessory (or perhaps a sensor from the ECU etc.) to the frame and then using a jumper from the frame to the battery negative. Harley, Aprilia, and Triumph still do this (Ducati has stopped the practice on most models). So, connecting up the OEM leads will not improve starting performance but on the negative it is probably still a good idea due to the above. This Practical Enthusiast channel presents the very best and most professional videos, you should be subscribed to ensure you are always in the loop on any new vids. HTH.
@@michaelheth2940 The current will still flow through the old cables. That is easily proven with an Amp clamp meter. It doesn't double the path as he asked, but it does offer a significant increase in capacity.
hello, would it be possible to know the brand of the starter cable kit ..............please
Motolectric!
Personally I would remove the old cables but the other option for me would be to snip the ends of the wires so they can not be seen.
My PCD kicked it something fierce. I wish you would have removed the old wire and replaced it with the new one. If the new one was routed the same way as the old one you probably wouldn't have had that much slack.
I am not in agreement with the routing of your cable and leaving the original cable in-place. You pass too close to the exhaust system on both cylinders. I would pull out the old cable as well.
You should not have to do this on a Ducati. Unfortunately, the premium Ducati brand is not so premium.
True….ridiculous amount of work