One of my first times rappelling, my friend tied me in to the belay device at the top of the cliff. When I got to the bottom, his son, who had been in Special Forces and was an expert at rappelling, looked at my set up, looked up the cliff at his dad and shouted, "Dad, you tied him in wrong! Didn't we already go over this?!" Oops.
Well, how did it go? I wish I caught this/filmed the video earlier, as I recently posted one about doing simple rappels to build confidence. I included my recommendation to start by rappelling down stairs, off a porch, down a steep hill...
The rappel device should go above your back up. When the backup is weighted below the rappel, your weight is some what transferred to the rappel device above it. This creates 2 breaking actions and it makes unweighting the backup easier. Yes I know how old your comment is, but I think this is important.
When you are "tending the friction hitch with one hand" - have the hand gripping the ropes above the hitch and sliding it down and not clamped down directly on top of the hitch,
2:24 that is a PAS, it doesn't matter if it's hooked up to two links unless you clip the biner that went direct to the anchor back into the belay loop....nm commented too quickly
Make sure you initially set up the Rappel Device at the MIDPOINT of the PAS loops. That way you won't have the extra slack of loops dangling when you clip the anchor-biner back to the harness belay loop. Positioning the rappel device that full distance away also allows the friction hitch to function properly if needed by not bumping into the belay device. And NEVER use a Daisy Chain sling for this method! It's not designed for this application!
@Joe Weber no it's a "Personal Anchor System" with independent slings linked together, whereas a daisy chain is one piece of fabric stitched to itself to create loops you can hook things to. See mojagear.com/learn/2016/05/11/shouldnt-use-daisy-chain-personal-anchor/
I think this is still the common method. This one here has way too many moving parts that aren't really necessary. Then there's racks for any height over 100ft, as the weight of the rope itself will cause too much friction.
Hey. I've been doing Search and Rescue and high angle rescue for 6+ years, and climbing for 20+. I personally use prusiks, but there's an assortment of hitches that serve the same purpose and function well. The whole idea is that a loop of cordage that's about 3mm smaller diameter than the rope, when wrapped around several times and pulled unevenly, will bind when loaded. I would recommend sticking with the hitch for this purpose that you know, are comfortable tying, and can do correctly every time even when you are tired, getting rained on, and distracted.
Yes, it is more secure, but are you planning on prusiking down the rope or rappelling? If rappelling the autoblock is sufficient and smoother (by far).
@@bestbuilder1st of course rapelling, just a prusik as safety backup when you let go of the rope. On very steep terrain it's just dumb to prusik down the rope imo
@@kjelldegroot5137 Prusik safer in this scenario? Not so, if you constantly have to fight the prusik (like most people do) or have to spend your time tending it (like even more people have to do, it is not safer. An autoblock is the most effective and efficient system for a rappel. Why do you think all the professional guides teach and use the autoblock?
It's the integrity of the anchor points that would bother me, not the technicalities of actually doing it. How can you ever know that the anchor points are solid before you do it?
How does clipping into two points of the personal anchor system make it redundant? If the chain closer to you breaks you lose the carabiner since it's connected to that loop. One break corresponds to critical failure, and does not mean its redundant
When you clip back into your belay loop it ensures that if one loop pops, you are still attached with either your belay loop or with your anchor points, depending on which loop fails.
that is what the prusik (or friction hitch in this video) is for... it will stop the rope from sliding through the belay should you let go of the rope for whatever reason. Abseiling - when using proper technique - is quite safe to do. And great fun as well.
Like they mention that the start, have a more experienced friend it with you that can give you a Firemans belay from the bottom. Even if you completely do everything wrong, they will save you just by pulling on the rope.
Did you ever go? If you're interested, check out my "Rappelling for Beginners: Build Confidence with a simple rappel" video. You can start by practicing off a porch, staircase, or steep hill. Use a prusik and go with someone experienced. You can also use self-efficacy building techniques like: 1) consider what similar things you've done (climbing a tree, swinging on a rope swing, tying knots on a sailboat). 2) watch someone else and picture yourself doing it. 3) consider the realistic worst-case (not falling, but more like the person doing the fireman's belay catches you if you freak out, the prusik catches you, you stop mid wall and have to take some deep breaths to calm down) 4) use some positive self talk. 5) practice in a different setting first. 6) consider how great you will feel at the end.
At 1:15 you say to clip into 2 loops to keep the system redundant. This is false security on this type of tether. If the loop closer to the climber breaks, then the other loop is already detached. This does not add redundancy.
Excellent video as usual - but one thing, when you talk about stopper knots at the end of your rope, you show them on the ground! That won't keep you from hitting the ground like a correct stopper knot would!
The stopper knot is for habit, the idea being if you cant see the ground on the rappel and your rope comes up short that knot at the end will keep you from rappelling off the end of your rope and falling. Think of anything longer than a sportclimb. As for your concern about hitting the ground in this video that is why they showed a friction hitch which should be able to catch you should you lose control.
@@geoffreyallenperdue stopper knots are useful on multipitch rappelling, also on lead belaying when you plan to lower your partner. Andrews idea of tying stopper knots that hang up off the ground to prevent decking on an out of control rappel are not practical for many reasons, not the least of which is that you would not be able to accurately tie them. Much of the time you can't see the ground while throwing a rap line. It is very wise to climb with an experienced mentor when first starting out. These are simple questions easily answered in real life climbing days outside.
Its because she clipped the PAS into here belay loop from both the top and girth hitched from the bottom. Thus if one of the loops snapped either the clipped belay loop will save her or the girth hitch side. (correct me if my reasoning is wrong lol)
John Mead i’ve only ever used a shoulder length nylon sling. figure out where you want your midpoint and tie an overhand on a bight. there’s no reason one *needs* a PAS.
If your Prusik breaks, then you didn't inspect your rope and you shouldn't be climbing nor rappelling. They can handle many times your weight, so unless it's damaged, there's zero reason for it to break.
people hae been rappelling for ages. all of these safety measures are more than likely written in blood, just like with the complicated electrician laws that keep getting updated to reduce the risk of electrical fires, or road safety measures, the same. while you aren't breaking any laws with rapelling wrong, youre possibly hurting someone by not following the techniques that have been developed over loads of years to prevent people from getting hurt.
This is pretty simple after you've practiced a couple times. Redundancy is necessary because gear does fail, and if you do make a mistake then another price of gear will catch you. Climbing has become pretty standardized on what works and what doesn't after decades of experience and people dying.
Some important things this video doesn't include, tying stopper knots so you don't rappel off the ends, making sure the carabiner is clipped through both sides of the rope in the belay device, and making sure you are connected with your personal anchor before testing the weight of the rappel system so you don't fall.
For someone who does not know how to rappel, this video is not useful. Too much information, too fast. Maybe it would be better for somebody with some experience, who was just looking for a quick refresher.
@@europeancoalandsteelcommunity I agree wholeheartedly. Something as dangerous as rappelling warrants professional instruction. 30% of climbing deaths are due to errors in rappelling. These videos are intended to introduce or refresh the subject, not teach.
This video is really an advert for an REI class, intended to make it look complicated enough that after being totally confused, a beginner may decide to take an REI rappelling class.
At 1:20 it says to clip the carabiner around 2 loops of the PAS to be redundant. This is wrong! it does not add any redundancy because if the first loop fails the second loop will be gone.
Please stop using vocal fry within the narration, it's annoying, unprofessional and damages your vocal cords. I can't watch these videos until the fry is gone.
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One of my first times rappelling, my friend tied me in to the belay device at the top of the cliff. When I got to the bottom, his son, who had been in Special Forces and was an expert at rappelling, looked at my set up, looked up the cliff at his dad and shouted, "Dad, you tied him in wrong! Didn't we already go over this?!" Oops.
Sounds like the rappel expert needs to be doing the tying in then. What is he doing on the ground belaying?
I have to repel for my EMT and ALS class, I'm nervous but even more excited!!!
Well, how did it go? I wish I caught this/filmed the video earlier, as I recently posted one about doing simple rappels to build confidence. I included my recommendation to start by rappelling down stairs, off a porch, down a steep hill...
3:15 make sure your shoes are secured too
lol....you caught that too.....lol
it makes me wonder what else she missed
If you just finished a hard climb and your shoes are tight, removing the Velcro for the rap is very commonly done.
kek
redundancy!
I will put friction hitch first! So after you pull the rope up, this friction hitch will hold the rope for you and way easy to put belay device in!
The rappel device should go above your back up. When the backup is weighted below the rappel, your weight is some what transferred to the rappel device above it. This creates 2 breaking actions and it makes unweighting the backup easier.
Yes I know how old your comment is, but I think this is important.
These videos are well made and to the point. Amazing job
When you are "tending the friction hitch with one hand" - have the hand gripping the ropes above the hitch and sliding it down and not clamped down directly on top of the hitch,
I've used a Prusik knot clipped onto my right leg loop and the ropes off to the right where my prusik knot is, for a brake(Friction hitch).
2:24 that is a PAS, it doesn't matter if it's hooked up to two links unless you clip the biner that went direct to the anchor back into the belay loop....nm commented too quickly
I thought the exact same, then she clipped the anchor into the loop and I went like “ooh that’s smart”
Make sure you initially set up the Rappel Device at the MIDPOINT of the PAS loops. That way you won't have the extra slack of loops dangling when you clip the anchor-biner back to the harness belay loop. Positioning the rappel device that full distance away also allows the friction hitch to function properly if needed by not bumping into the belay device.
And NEVER use a Daisy Chain sling for this method! It's not designed for this application!
@Joe Weber no it's a "Personal Anchor System" with independent slings linked together, whereas a daisy chain is one piece of fabric stitched to itself to create loops you can hook things to. See mojagear.com/learn/2016/05/11/shouldnt-use-daisy-chain-personal-anchor/
I’m goin camping and rappelling so this really helps 😊
Please tell me you'll have a mentor with you and not just rely on this video...
@ of course I will it’s a class field trip
@@jimsagubigula7337 of course I will it’s a class field trip
@@scottbeckel8170 Ah ok. Have fun then, and listen to your instructor. Be safe
I’d hate for them to see how I rappelled as a kid at camp with a carabiner and figure 8. But hey, it was the 80’s!
I think this is still the common method. This one here has way too many moving parts that aren't really necessary.
Then there's racks for any height over 100ft, as the weight of the rope itself will cause too much friction.
With a nylon rope used to tie loads on a truck or even the harness made out of a rope instead of a nylon one! I can still tie the harness!
Who the hell wants to take an eternity going like she is, i was taught the military way!
Lol or in 2018 working at meriwether.
Make sure you have 4 shoes just in case
Some extra pairs of underwear might come in handy as well.
Also, never rappel alone... always have someone w you in case bad turn into worst...
Rappelling is one of the safer climbing activities to do alone. Just triple check your set up and don't rush. Done it hundreds of times.
Like the flyattendents instructions... Thnk you to fly with rappel airways..
Except that here, it's not a good sign if you're flying.
Isn't a prusik knot better than a friction hitch as a security?
Hey. I've been doing Search and Rescue and high angle rescue for 6+ years, and climbing for 20+. I personally use prusiks, but there's an assortment of hitches that serve the same purpose and function well. The whole idea is that a loop of cordage that's about 3mm smaller diameter than the rope, when wrapped around several times and pulled unevenly, will bind when loaded. I would recommend sticking with the hitch for this purpose that you know, are comfortable tying, and can do correctly every time even when you are tired, getting rained on, and distracted.
Yes, it is more secure, but are you planning on prusiking down the rope or rappelling? If rappelling the autoblock is sufficient and smoother (by far).
@@bestbuilder1st of course rapelling, just a prusik as safety backup when you let go of the rope. On very steep terrain it's just dumb to prusik down the rope imo
@@kjelldegroot5137 Prusik safer in this scenario? Not so, if you constantly have to fight the prusik (like most people do) or have to spend your time tending it (like even more people have to do, it is not safer. An autoblock is the most effective and efficient system for a rappel. Why do you think all the professional guides teach and use the autoblock?
It's the integrity of the anchor points that would bother me, not the technicalities of actually doing it. How can you ever know that the anchor points are solid before you do it?
You weight them. But if you aren't sure, make an anchor yourself.
How does clipping into two points of the personal anchor system make it redundant? If the chain closer to you breaks you lose the carabiner since it's connected to that loop. One break corresponds to critical failure, and does not mean its redundant
haha, exactly what I thought.
nevermind... @2:58 she clips the opposite end of the extension back in to her belay loop - which does indeed make it redundant.
These vids are retarded.
Watching it again, does it become redundant at the end when she clips (what was connected to the anchor) back to her belay loop?
When you clip back into your belay loop it ensures that if one loop pops, you are still attached with either your belay loop or with your anchor points, depending on which loop fails.
Man all those toys make you need an expert on site.
What do i do if i'm afraid i'll fall and freak out?
that is what the prusik (or friction hitch in this video) is for... it will stop the rope from sliding through the belay should you let go of the rope for whatever reason. Abseiling - when using proper technique - is quite safe to do. And great fun as well.
Like they mention that the start, have a more experienced friend it with you that can give you a Firemans belay from the bottom. Even if you completely do everything wrong, they will save you just by pulling on the rope.
always carry alternative plan with you incase your main thing goes off. then secondary will hold. there is no second chance here ..
just make sure your spidey web works
Did you ever go? If you're interested, check out my "Rappelling for Beginners: Build Confidence with a simple rappel" video. You can start by practicing off a porch, staircase, or steep hill. Use a prusik and go with someone experienced. You can also use self-efficacy building techniques like: 1) consider what similar things you've done (climbing a tree, swinging on a rope swing, tying knots on a sailboat). 2) watch someone else and picture yourself doing it. 3) consider the realistic worst-case (not falling, but more like the person doing the fireman's belay catches you if you freak out, the prusik catches you, you stop mid wall and have to take some deep breaths to calm down) 4) use some positive self talk. 5) practice in a different setting first. 6) consider how great you will feel at the end.
At 1:15 you say to clip into 2 loops to keep the system redundant. This is false security on this type of tether. If the loop closer to the climber breaks, then the other loop is already detached. This does not add redundancy.
Both ends of the PAS are attached to the harness (much later in the video).
I DID IN THE INDIA IN THE LAST WEEK AT JATAYU EARTH CENTRE, KERALA
I need a not so expensive rappelling kit.. would anyone please provide any link to buy?
Probably best not to skimp on the equipment that keeps you from falling to your death.
Excellent video as usual - but one thing, when you talk about stopper knots at the end of your rope, you show them on the ground! That won't keep you from hitting the ground like a correct stopper knot would!
The stopper knot is for habit, the idea being if you cant see the ground on the rappel and your rope comes up short that knot at the end will keep you from rappelling off the end of your rope and falling. Think of anything longer than a sportclimb. As for your concern about hitting the ground in this video that is why they showed a friction hitch which should be able to catch you should you lose control.
@@geoffreyallenperdue Different Andrew mate
@@geoffreyallenperdue stopper knots are useful on multipitch rappelling, also on lead belaying when you plan to lower your partner. Andrews idea of tying stopper knots that hang up off the ground to prevent decking on an out of control rappel are not practical for many reasons, not the least of which is that you would not be able to accurately tie them. Much of the time you can't see the ground while throwing a rap line. It is very wise to climb with an experienced mentor when first starting out. These are simple questions easily answered in real life climbing days outside.
And do you shoes up
How is clipping your carabiner through two loops redundant? If the bottom one fails, being clipped into the top one does nothing.
my thoughts exactly
Its because she clipped the PAS into here belay loop from both the top and girth hitched from the bottom. Thus if one of the loops snapped either the clipped belay loop will save her or the girth hitch side. (correct me if my reasoning is wrong lol)
Be sure to catch a class cause clearly a video will not make it for you
I was wondering the same thing?
Instructions unclear: broke my leg in Mogadishu.
3:16 Velcro on climbing shoe came undone
I am noticing a lack of redundancy on Her left shoe. 3:15
I’m just here for the music
nice
Coming n Repeling😮
This video was clearly not intended for beginners.
Shouldn't be learning this for the 1st time from a video.
cant I just use a last ditch belt instead? ID trust that over a redundant chain any day....
John Mead i’ve only ever used a shoulder length nylon sling. figure out where you want your midpoint and tie an overhand on a bight. there’s no reason one *needs* a PAS.
Either one is fine. PAS or a sling.
Alrighty then... I'll update this comment when I've made it safely to the bottom!
rest in peace
velcro was untied
What if prusik breaks. What if the rope you use for prusik does not hold
If your Prusik breaks, then you didn't inspect your rope and you shouldn't be climbing nor rappelling. They can handle many times your weight, so unless it's damaged, there's zero reason for it to break.
They won't, unless they are 50 years old
gloves?
Gloves...really?
My instincts tell me the more complicated it gets like this, the more likely you'll miss something. Anyone else feel that?
Where is it complicated?
people hae been rappelling for ages. all of these safety measures are more than likely written in blood, just like with the complicated electrician laws that keep getting updated to reduce the risk of electrical fires, or road safety measures, the same. while you aren't breaking any laws with rapelling wrong, youre possibly hurting someone by not following the techniques that have been developed over loads of years to prevent people from getting hurt.
Not that complicated. The atc is an easy to use device with no moving parts. The friction hitch is just backup
This is pretty simple after you've practiced a couple times. Redundancy is necessary because gear does fail, and if you do make a mistake then another price of gear will catch you. Climbing has become pretty standardized on what works and what doesn't after decades of experience and people dying.
Some important things this video doesn't include, tying stopper knots so you don't rappel off the ends, making sure the carabiner is clipped through both sides of the rope in the belay device, and making sure you are connected with your personal anchor before testing the weight of the rappel system so you don't fall.
😮😮😮😮😮
For someone who does not know how to rappel, this video is not useful. Too much information, too fast. Maybe it would be better for somebody with some experience, who was just looking for a quick refresher.
You need instruction from a professional. You shouldn't try to learn from a TH-cam video.
@@europeancoalandsteelcommunity I agree wholeheartedly. Something as dangerous as rappelling warrants professional instruction. 30% of climbing deaths are due to errors in rappelling. These videos are intended to introduce or refresh the subject, not teach.
This video is really an advert for an REI class, intended to make it look complicated enough that after being totally confused, a beginner may decide to take an REI rappelling class.
No legit TH-cam on at dangerous at height stuff is directed towards beginners
with unsafely open shoose ? Like in this video??? No Thanks!
At 1:20 it says to clip the carabiner around 2 loops of the PAS to be redundant. This is wrong! it does not add any redundancy because if the first loop fails the second loop will be gone.
She clips the second end to her belay loop at around 3:05, which makes it redundant.
Oh thank you! I didn't get that far.
Ha ha ha 30 years ago we had none of this this is Ridiculous too many pieces of equipment keep it simple
And people were dying like flies 30 years ago. So shut your mouth and learn a think or two before commenting.
Too complicated
Rappeling is complicated anyway
Please stop using vocal fry within the narration, it's annoying, unprofessional and damages your vocal cords. I can't watch these videos until the fry is gone.
So extreme, I love it! This is hilarious.