Rock Climbing: Building a Top-Rope Anchor Using the Quad
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- There are lots of different ways to set up a top-rope anchor, including a sliding X, an equalized cordelette or two quickdraws with gates opposite and opposed. In this video, we show you how to build a top-rope anchor using the quad. The quad is easy to set up, versatile and strong.
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Why the locking carabiners are clipped over the fixed gear? It's less safe this way, carabiners can get cross-loaded. Everything what is currently used as top anchor should be clipped below any other gear as a "first layer". Correct me if I'm wrong.
You're correct. They should have gone below the fixed hardware.
Was thinking the exact same thing. Good catch
can someone clarify? From what I understand this is because if you put the locking biner above the draw, then the tension between the draw and the bolt can cross load the lock biner and potentially break or damage it? I'm just trying to figure out why sorry if it is a dumb question
I would also like clarification on this.
0:54 wait dumb question but if there's lots of rust, what do you do at that point? You have to get down some way right?
You would theoretically be checking every bolt and hangar as you climb, only clipping into solid protection every time. So if you come to a rusty bolt or broken hangar or an unusable anchor chain, you'd just lower off your last safe draw. Now, if you can't downclimb to your last clip and you didn't bring any trad gear up with you to improvise in an emergency, the only way I know of would be to fall down to your last draw, which kind of sucks. There's probably some guide life hack for this scenario because having to fall like that on a single QuickDraw is less than ideal but, better than lowering off of dangerous pro...
Hello, could you please do a video on how to build a trad anchor and belay from above. Thankyou.
Placing gear, understanding anchors and belaying from above are not skills to learn on youTube my friend. Take a class, please.
Great video! Would it be even more redundant if I clipped each carabineer into a different set of 3 strands, instead of both into the same 3 strands? Or would this cause some issue I'm not thinking of when the carabineers are sliding around, like slightly 'twisting' the strands and weakening or degrading them?
Other videos on youtube tells you to clip one carabiner in two of them and the second carabiner in the other two. Then both carabiners will have the equal amount of strength, even if something fails.
@@rickardhansson1267 I have seen a couple tutorials with AMGA instructors that show the technique you’re referring too. Seems like this would give just a bit more strength in the top rope anchor system
Check out the SWAMP (Shelf Without A Master Point) 4 draws, 1 double sling. Less material and super quick. You can easily adjust to have 0 extension too. It's my go to since learning it.
Do you mean 4 carabiners? 4 draws is a lot of material
This is a great video! What is the first song?
I'm assuming you would use static rope for the quad anchor correct?
Tristin Pettit yup. It's a 7mm cordalette.
If I use 6mm am I gonna die?
@@eyescreamcake 6mm cordelette is rated to 8kn, so in a top rope scenario id trust it. But I personally would go for a 7mm cordelette thats rated 12kn just to have that piece of mind of a higher rated cordalette
@@eyescreamcake 8mm if you are a pussay like me :D
@@conchosewing
Not judging, but that's getting into climbing rope territory and is pretty bulky. There are single rated climbing ropes under 9mm.
How to bolt the harness to the stone or clift?
I understand why you clip on to 3 of the 4 ropes(in case of failure on one side to catch the biners), but why not only clip on 2 of the 4 so if you have a failure you're not (possibly) only counting on a single strand?
I'm new to this, but looks to me like the knot does the majority of the work and the spare loop just prevents it sliding over
@@khakicam5400 i found after a little research you should clip a locking biner on 2 of the self equalizing strands, then ANOTHER locking biner opposite and away from other biner on OTHER 2 strands.
How do you tie the ends of the cordalette together?
With double fisherman's knot
doubler fishermans hitch! th-cam.com/video/YHUv-oOMwRA/w-d-xo.html
I see you’ve received an answer but to provide additional confidence in theses responses- Fisherman’s knot... double or triple.
1:34 I know it doesn't matter in this case but she back clips the quick draw. Not the greatest thing to show in an instructional video.
It's her back up, it matters.
Could someone answer: is the 7mm cordalette quad anchor option “stronger / better” than both the sling and QuickDraw anchor method?
Yea i dont think anything is stronger than a 7mm quad from what ive researched.
I didn't follow the point about why you left one of the four strands unconnected?
If you leave one of the four strands unclipped the limiting knots will catch the carabiner in the event some part of the system fails. If you clip all four strands the biner would slide off the system entirely should any part of the system fail.
At 3:20 the climber is looking at a FF2 on a static tether. In that situation a fall would generate enough force to likely be fatal. It seems unlikely, but it really can. The knots aren't dressed, the gate of the quick draw backup is facing the rock. This is a terrible instructional video, and REI should know better.
1:51 I was taught to never have an anchor gate facing the wall
Forget walking back to the base, Rappel down!
Rappel requires more gear & knowledge. Walking off the top is generally safer and way better for the beginners who are getting advice from REI.
At 2:36 the set up is wrong. Both of the gates are on the same side; they should be on opposite sides.
0:15 says you could have an anchor with two draws opposite and opposed and they aren't in the video. I understand they use lockers but still... that's just ridiculous
Agreed, there could be a clearer shot of the this with dogbone quickdraws, so they'd look opposed as well as opposite. The locking 'biners are more than ample compensation IMHO. and choosing to have the spine of the carabiner against the rock (as shown) is the safer choice when an alpine draw (or any draw) twists and lets the carabiners stand up like that. To oppose them in this case would mean one of the gates was dragging across the rock, which is ACTUALLY bad.
They are opposite and opposed, if you look closely you can see that one of the carabiners has just rotated around the rope putting the wider end on top. Happens, but they rigged it correctly.
What length rope would you use to set up the quad anchor?
they mentioned it in the video... approximately 20 feet
Who did the ankhor bolts ???? That u shud tell first
Why don’t you just use 2 QuickDraw to make a top rope?
2 quick draws can be enough, but if properly set up the video's method is going to be more secure with the locking carabiners. If you or your group feels the need to climb a top rope for an extended period of time, take the extra few minutes to make it safer. It's also not bad practice if you ever feel taking your climbing to the next level where multi-pitching is required.
The terrain at the top of a wall also affects whether to build a top-rope anchor with cordelette. A rock might jut out, and putting an anchor in place could be necessary to make sure that a top rope clears an obstacle that might otherwise cut the rope.
I've always used two alpine draws with four lockers. If the weight isn't an issue, the bottom two can be steel to avoid wear and having to replace aluminum lockers. A few years ago, I bought a couple sling chains for anchors and really like them.
I use 2 quickdraws with lockers and beefy bones most of the time for sport climbing, but bolts are not always at the same height so the anchor won’t equalize. In those cases it is better to equalize the anchor. (Quads are also a great component of natural anchors but there you typically have at least 3 pieces.)
Too fast not enough detail
Please make Russian subtitles
Music is good but super distracting; would be nice if video spent more time on the complicated portions. Moving on to alternative tutorials that are simple and clear.
丟那媽了！
To much wrong.