Thanks for watching. Click here to subscribe: th-cam.com/channels/BjbIkxM0hDkE-_oTgMmtCQ.html This is my first time installing and using t-track. My router skills were a little rusty, but I'm happy with the end result. I think this is going to work at well me. Anyone else do a mobile power tool workbench like this? This was part 2 of 3 videos. Links to the other videos are in the description above.
As a newbie myself I had the same problem with the correct direction to use the router. After a lot of looking I found a simple and straightforward rule or guide. Using your RIGHT hand, lay your THUMB on the piece or the edge you intend to machine; extend your index finger and that is the direction to use the router. It changes from an outside edge to an inside edge (ie routing out a hole) -but is always indicates the correct the direction.
I am not sure but I believe you should have routed from left-to-right vs right-to-left to void tear outs. Someone please let me know. I am new to woodworking.
You were routing backwards. You should have gone left to right due to the bit rotation. The way you were doing it, the rotation of the router bit will be a constant pull away from your guide. Using the rounded side of the router would have been easier too. You were using the flat side of the base and any rotation of the base would push you away from the guide.
Use the rounded edge of router base to eliminate drift. Straight edge causes the drift you experienced. If the round edge drifts as you push along straight edge, distance is constant, just rolls against straight edge and you’ll be very happy. Thanks for the info.
If you put the rounded part of your router base against the edge, you won’t get off. If the straight side of the base is against the edge, the slightest movement will get you off the line. If the rounded part of the base is against the edge, you can move the router a little without getting off your line.
@@Ryder_In_Motion A little more on this and some recommendations.....For general sawdust, such as the table saw will produce from most wood products, a good filter mask is recommended. As you move to using MDF on any of your projects you should use a respirator with a good seal and a filter rated for dust and very small particulate because the particulate floating around in the shop after cutting is nasty in the lungs of you breath it in. MDF dust will get all over you, your clothes, shoes, and every nook an cranny in your body and you hair as well. I hate the stuff with a passion. I also recommend using goggles when cutting MDF because it will get in your eyes too. You currently have a small shop so one of your future projects should be a self-contained dust extraction system built on a cart using a dust deputy cyclone and shop vac. If thought out and planned well these make very good and informative videos that folks will watch. You do seem to be good at your presentations and only better with additional time. Another good video would be an air filtration system made from MRV13 filters using a good quality fan. Again, these types of videos should get your viewership numbers up and help out some folks. Dust is a larger problem than most people assume and even more of an issue in small confined spaces like a garage shop. Good luck!
@@ronwilliams329 Thank you for the detailed feedback. I did purchase a dust mask for future use based on your recommendation. I also appreciate the idea for a dust filtering system. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for watching. Click here to subscribe: th-cam.com/channels/BjbIkxM0hDkE-_oTgMmtCQ.html
This is my first time installing and using t-track. My router skills were a little rusty, but I'm happy with the end result. I think this is going to work at well me. Anyone else do a mobile power tool workbench like this?
This was part 2 of 3 videos. Links to the other videos are in the description above.
As a newbie myself I had the same problem with the correct direction to use the router. After a lot of looking I found a simple and straightforward rule or guide. Using your RIGHT hand, lay your THUMB on the piece or the edge you intend to machine; extend your index finger and that is the direction to use the router. It changes from an outside edge to an inside edge (ie routing out a hole) -but is always indicates the correct the direction.
Great tip! I'll have to give that a shot.
I am not sure but I believe you should have routed from left-to-right vs right-to-left to void tear outs. Someone please let me know. I am new to woodworking.
Thanks for commenting. Routing is definitely not something I did often. I did struggle on this project. Maybe I was moving the wrong direction.
@@Ryder_In_Motion I think you did fine with the video. I am here to learn. Thank you.
You were routing backwards. You should have gone left to right due to the bit rotation. The way you were doing it, the rotation of the router bit will be a constant pull away from your guide. Using the rounded side of the router would have been easier too. You were using the flat side of the base and any rotation of the base would push you away from the guide.
Use the rounded edge of router base to eliminate drift. Straight edge causes the drift you experienced. If the round edge drifts as you push along straight edge, distance is constant, just rolls against straight edge and you’ll be very happy. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for sharing.
even with the slop, it would still be possible to make sure all the tracks are parallel to each other and as square as possible to the table?
If you put the rounded part of your router base against the edge, you won’t get off. If the straight side of the base is against the edge, the slightest movement will get you off the line. If the rounded part of the base is against the edge, you can move the router a little without getting off your line.
Thanks for tip. I definitely struggled with the router. I'll keep this in mind. Thank you.
I called it on hitting the underside bolt before he did it. Have just replaced the top on my Husky table and am researching T-track.
I did the same thing to a Husky adjustable table last year. The only problem I have is nothing moves smoothly in the t-tracks.
I noticed the same thing. Definitely more drag on the bolts than expected.
Please used a dusk mask 😷 or respirator .. saw dust it’s bad to inhale..
Very true. I need to be better about that. Thanks.
@@Ryder_In_Motion A little more on this and some recommendations.....For general sawdust, such as the table saw will produce from most wood products, a good filter mask is recommended. As you move to using MDF on any of your projects you should use a respirator with a good seal and a filter rated for dust and very small particulate because the particulate floating around in the shop after cutting is nasty in the lungs of you breath it in. MDF dust will get all over you, your clothes, shoes, and every nook an cranny in your body and you hair as well. I hate the stuff with a passion. I also recommend using goggles when cutting MDF because it will get in your eyes too. You currently have a small shop so one of your future projects should be a self-contained dust extraction system built on a cart using a dust deputy cyclone and shop vac. If thought out and planned well these make very good and informative videos that folks will watch. You do seem to be good at your presentations and only better with additional time. Another good video would be an air filtration system made from MRV13 filters using a good quality fan. Again, these types of videos should get your viewership numbers up and help out some folks. Dust is a larger problem than most people assume and even more of an issue in small confined spaces like a garage shop. Good luck!
@@ronwilliams329 Thank you for the detailed feedback. I did purchase a dust mask for future use based on your recommendation. I also appreciate the idea for a dust filtering system. Thanks for commenting.