I think why the whole system is cooler now is because the tank remains cool which makes it a great heat sink that helps cool the pump and motor that are mount directly to the tank. My 2 cents worth. Great work man.
I think my compressor used to be a water well...I am very close to blowing up my plasma cutter since water is getting through my filters. I want to add that cooler to my 30 gallon compressor and later do my new dewalt 60 gallon unit.
Just picked one of these up...it had fallen on the delivery truck and had a large blemish on the tank but no real damage..$250. I scored. Added the B&M but mounted on the side parallel to the built-in aftercooler to to take advantage of the strong stream of air coming out to the side. Used all copper w/compression fittings. Added water trap at the coolers bottom air exit and the temp at the trap gets only warm during a full tank fill. I also got a sheet of aluminum and created a shroud across the top and side to funnel all air through the fins of the compressor and cooler. It seems to work very well.
Nice set up, I took an a/c condenser off of a Chevy 1500 truck and hooked between pump and tank, I can paint a whole car and never get any moisture and also I got a big sand blast cabinet, never any moisture at all. I took all that water separated and other shit and threw it in the trash because that stuff don’t work worth a crap
great video! you saved my ass with this video down here in Florida, was getting insane amounts of water cause of humidity.on top of normal conditions of compressor.. huge thanks.
Bench Racing works great. Use ptfe hose though instead of the flex copper tubing or the rubber hose. It’s expensive but it’s heat capable and won’t corrode the aluminum like the flex copper does. EVIL ENERGY 16Ft 10AN Stainless Steel Braided Teflon PTFE E85 Fuel Line + 10AN Teflon Hose End Fitting Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B0779ZMTCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pKfEBb4W7D79K
@@gunsandgaragegear601 I like the idea and I appreciate you educating me on alternative options, I just have a hard time spending $90 when I can replace the copper +4 times before breaking even --- and I don't know if that'll ever need to happen.
Alex Byrd I ended up using high temp pressure washer hose on mine. I have a video on my channel if you look at it. Was like $15 at pressure washer supply
If you can still find this model. The pump is made in Italy and the motor in mexico. Most of the newer ones are cheap Chinese ones. But every now and then central pneumatic will rebrand really nice products.
Sheila Marsh Hi Sheila don’t you love it when people post things. And others ask questions and, Hello McFly anyone home? I see this shit all the time. Why post things to help others if your not going to help. Just my 1 Cent.
You made specific mention that your ball valves are full-port. Did you also ensure that your whip hoses are full port? Many of the most commonly sold red ones are not.
I think just 50 ft of piping after the compressor before the Dyer/filter is all you need for the moisture. The auto drain you got from husky on the tank is gonna drain and help the tank but the excess cooler and everything else is just wasting money. The beads and filter is nice to have after to really make sure it’s coming thru clean and dry.
Hi Bud. I am getting a shit ton of water coming out my tools. But... the funny thing is, is I hardly have any water coming out the bottom of tank and I do have a water filter right off the regulator. Not much out of that either. I need some help before I ruin my air tools. No one ever seems to reply. Could you please help? Thanks Big Jim
The reason why your auto tank drain stopped working, is because it has to be angled downwards, or the piston will seize due to the moisture collecting at it. Auto drains work pretty good at keeping your tank moisture levels pretty low. As always though, a real air dryer would be a huge benefit and typically include after coolers in them.
Eyebrows Mahoney thank you, thank you....I've gone threw 2 of those and the diaphragm kept getting stuck and the rubber would fail. mine was plumbed horizontally because of the compressor's low ground clearance. I will re-plumb it tonight
What are the 2 filters (model numbers) coming out of the oil filter and into the tank. Love your videos. Made some changes on my HF sandblaster cabinet.
Wonder if placing the unloader valve directly after the cooler would help purge the tubes? You would need another ball valve between the tank and your filters though.
I had 2 of those b&m coolers fail on a compressor...........what you might want to do is to angle the cooler so the bottom nipple is tilting down( NOT STRAIGHT DOWN 15 to 20 degrees) ALLOWING the water in the cooler to drain out and not sit in the cooler when it is not running. Otherwise corrosion will start in the tubing causing it to fail. (cheap thin wall tubing) You had mounted it correctly just needed to be tilted more at a angle
This is a GREAT Idea. Thanks. This a comment taken from an Amazon Review. It appears that flexible hoses would make a longer lasting setup than copper pipe or even stiff hoses. "However, when used as an oil cooler with lines to match the 1/2 pipe ports, the hoses can put too much stress on the bosses and the thin thin thin lower plate they are mounted on. You need some sort of support to take any stress off of the bosses. It would be best to start out with the most flexible lines you can find from your hose store. Some industrial hoses are already too stiff. As the larger hoses age and suffer from heat, they will get stiffer and vibration alone will cause them to stress the thin Mexican aluminum they now use. They should have made it thick enough to take the forces imposed on it by typical engine oil cooler lines. Say, dash 10s or dash 12s. And, all lines get stiffer with heat and age, so engine movement and vibration will end up putting stress on a previously stress-free installation. Of course, if you use slip-on and clamped hoses, they are more flexible, and are less likely to cause a failure."
so you say full port 1/2 inch but I see your one part said 3/8 on the filter does that matter im just a older lady learning stuff I did just bye the same compressor you have
A 2 stage compressor is nice if you really need above 13 cfm,,,but they put out extremely hot air compared to single stage,,,and probably twice the moisture
no, the moisture is there because of the large difference in temperature so if you put ice cold air into an ambient temperature tank it would create moisture all the same. In other words ice cold water would not work the same
+2ndTimothyOutreach you could but id figure that setup would irrelevant "after leaving the tank" seeing that the tank would have moisture in it from the hot air entering the tank and that would be pushing moist air out, then that would then go through your proposed setup. thing is to combat moisture before it even enters the tank thus reducing moisture, tank corrosion and extending the life of not only your tank but extending life/ of the filters down the line.
Jon I don't understand your logic, the idea is to condense the air to force the moisture out of the air so it can be collected using water traps. The greater the difference in ambient temp and the air in the line the more condensation (moisture) will form on the warmer side of the copper which in this scenario would be the internal side. That condensation would then be easily collected by the water trap.
What is happening is the cooler is causing the water to condense, which makes it easier to remove. There is not less water in the system because of the cooler. (The amount of water going in to the system is directly related to the amount of air going in and its humidity level.) You might even be able to get a lot out with a gravity trap before the pre-tank separator. Good video, nice setup.
UG. love the videos. kept me locked in for the entire duration. Q.... So now that some time has passed. you posted this last may. it's now Feb. How about a sequel video showing how all the components are holding up. Including the compressor. And you gave the model number to the compressor in another video. I was recently in HF and snapped a pic so i could match up model #'s. It's still showing 93274. serial: HOP171873. is this the same as your's? also. what pressure do you run your blaster at and does it keep up just fine? Again love the vids. one of the most informative ones. From Indiana.
Thanks for the video..I sandblast for about an hour or 2 and have lots of water issues and showing up in the pressure pot...How would I find someone to install something like this..I am in Ohio...Plumber?? I don't have time to personally do it..any thoughts? Thanks for all your info..I appreciate it!
Absolutely will affect flow rates... might be able to compensate if plumbed hard line instead of all he sections of rubber hose. It with all the filter to hose to filter to hose OVER ENGINEERING, there’s no way flow rates aren’t down some.
Very nice post and very well done sir. I was wondering about the possibility of rust or corrosion or if it would hold the pressure. Obviously it held the pressure. You could use a stainless steel one or mount it with the fittings on the bottom so it drains out every time it's shut off. Just put a drain plug at the bottom of any dips in the copper line as a precaution as the lines are intended to go over then down. I live in the deep south and water is a HUGE problem here. That's why i'm here. You have definitely given me something to think about. You should do a follow up video on this. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith.
Hey Brother that is a super job on that compressor,I have the same one a buddy gave me his after the motor went out,I just put a new motor on it and I'm getting ready to plumb. do you do FB. Leave me your info. Keep up the good work
I dont think so. Still fills up in the same amount of time so I really don't think the psi is effected at all. But if your gonna do this get a bit of a better cooler the b&m only last about 6 months
I Just got the New 93274 the pump is still Italy the motor say's Ohio I'm not sure were the tank is from and it was made 7-17-15 I couldn't fine any with the 2014 mfg date. can you pm me all the model # filter and diameter of pipe etc so i can plumb mine like you have yours?
Great video. Very helpful. What's the regulator & water trap you're using right after your main shutoff? In the video around the 1:58 mark. Where did you get that?
How much does Neverlast pay to have people post comments like yours on every video like this? Incidentally, my old-school Lincoln plasma cutter will outlast 10 of yours.
I see why your oil cooler failed. Another commenter stated that he had two oil coolers fail in a similar installation. It's a corrosion problem, but it's not the oil cooler's fault. You did something that you should never do. You cannot mix copper and aluminum IN WATER. Even the faintest trace of copper will destroy aluminum IN WATER. You could plumb copper tube to the radiator and pump hot oil through it forever. On the other hand, a few drops of water that drip from a copper tube onto aluminum will carry enough copper to destroy the aluminum. Even a few brass fittings upstream of an aluminum water tank will destroy it. If you could eliminate the copper tubing, or find an oil cooler made of anything but aluminum you would not see that corrosion problem.
I am thinking about doing this too but after reading your comment, I'm not sure what pipe material would be acceptable between the pump and the cooler? Would stainless be a better choice?
Aluminum can be a tricky metal. I'm familiar with marine corrosion problems, which is why I know about the aluminum/copper interaction. Aluminum has some great properties, but they come with alarming downsides. Aluminum boats do typically use stainless steel fittings. The explanation is too lengthy, but aluminum also loses to stainless. It just takes longer. Since the aluminum and stainless steel would not be immersed in salt water while in contact with each other, yes, stainless would be a better choice in this case. After seeing the video, I looked for my own solution. Stainless tube is tough to work. Copper is far easier, with the giant benefit of conducting heat even better than aluminum. Just get rid of the aluminum altogether! I found a line of Derale oil coolers that are made of copper tubing. There is a Derale 15300 oil cooler with "-8AN" fittings that I want to buy. Those fittings are the same as hydraulic JIC fittings, which I can easily buy locally. Of course I need to add some water reservoir immediately after the air exits the cooler, and the reservoir also cannot be aluminum. When looking at Derale oil coolers, keep in mind that the 15300 model is a 16 pass unit with the copper tube looping back uphill slightly for 8 of those passes. I'm expecting that some water will condense along the way and cause some puddling, but the air flow should help to blast it along. It may be a better idea to use the 8 pass version of the same cooler where the tubes make S curves from top to bottom. I'll take my chances that condensed water can be blasted along. Some standing water will probably remain but that won't harm the copper.
I’m going to be buying this b&m from jegs for $80. Just use -10an PTFE hose Teflon hose and fittings. They’re on amazon. EVIL ENERGY 16Ft 10AN Stainless Steel Braided Teflon PTFE E85 Fuel Line + 10AN Teflon Hose End Fitting Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B0779ZMTCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pKfEBb4W7D79K
joe bob billy that's why he has the oil cooler on the back of the fan so it's drawing cold air through the cooler fins and this will turn the vapour to water thus trapping in the filters
At first I gave this video a thumbs up... then buried down in the comments the poster reveals that the B&M cooler corroded away in 6 months. Why not add a pop-up comment at the beginning of the video and a warning in the video description? Boo - Thumbs down!
My friend, now listen to me; It does NOT matter, is there just moister or gallon of water in your tank, hot or cold, is it dirty or clear. What is matter, is AFTER tank; That air must be clear and cool. Trust me my friend! Why it´s good to cooling the head, is engine it self. casket and so on.. And second; You always drain your tank, after paint job/whatever job. You don´t want dirt in your spray gun.. And; There is ALWAYS moist in your tank, it can´t go anywhere from there.. It does not matter was there water in tank or not, was it clear or not.. Trust me.
I think why the whole system is cooler now is because the tank remains cool which makes it a great heat sink that helps cool the pump and motor that are mount directly to the tank. My 2 cents worth. Great work man.
B&M transmission cooler and I happen to have 2 lying around - great idea.
I have a 21 gal central pneumatic compressor and the bottom started leak in the weld due to moisture. I’m going to do this with my new 29 gal. CP.
Real world scenario and Vivid HD easy-to-understand too 😀
experience is the king fir problem solving. Good inspiration.
Shalom thank you!!!
I think my compressor used to be a water well...I am very close to blowing up my plasma cutter since water is getting through my filters. I want to add that cooler to my 30 gallon compressor and later do my new dewalt 60 gallon unit.
Great video, Its not easy finding the psi specs on those radiators but B and m does list them.
Very good thought process and installation on that compact aftercooler.
Just picked one of these up...it had fallen on the delivery truck and had a large blemish on the tank but no real damage..$250. I scored.
Added the B&M but mounted on the side parallel to the built-in aftercooler to to take advantage of the strong stream of air coming out to the side. Used all copper w/compression fittings. Added water trap at the coolers bottom air exit and the temp at the trap gets only warm during a full tank fill. I also got a sheet of aluminum and created a shroud across the top and side to funnel all air through the fins of the compressor and cooler. It seems to work very well.
+ZootsAllure Awesome man the is a score its a get compressor, and with that added aftercooler its a great tool. Congrats!!!
Nice set up, I took an a/c condenser off of a Chevy 1500 truck and hooked between pump and tank, I can paint a whole car and never get any moisture and also I got a big sand blast cabinet, never any moisture at all. I took all that water separated and other shit and threw it in the trash because that stuff don’t work worth a crap
great video! you saved my ass with this video down here in Florida, was getting insane amounts of water cause of humidity.on top of normal conditions of compressor.. huge thanks.
Is this still working for you and would you do anything differently .Looks and sounds like a good setup.
Bench Racing works great. Use ptfe hose though instead of the flex copper tubing or the rubber hose. It’s expensive but it’s heat capable and won’t corrode the aluminum like the flex copper does. EVIL ENERGY 16Ft 10AN Stainless Steel Braided Teflon PTFE E85 Fuel Line + 10AN Teflon Hose End Fitting Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B0779ZMTCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pKfEBb4W7D79K
@@gunsandgaragegear601 I like the idea and I appreciate you educating me on alternative options, I just have a hard time spending $90 when I can replace the copper +4 times before breaking even --- and I don't know if that'll ever need to happen.
Alex Byrd I ended up using high temp pressure washer hose on mine. I have a video on my channel if you look at it. Was like $15 at pressure washer supply
@@gunsandgaragegear601 MVP! I'll take a look and thanks for the tip
Studioz I did not understand some of the parts MFG like the radiator, I like what you have done!!!!!
I heard people rebake the beads to make them go blue again..is that true
Yes you can definitely do that!!!
Heat rising from the tank would of heated the compressor and motor. Since you’ve removed a lot of heat they don’t get as hot.
So was that the stock pump on that compressor? It says made in Italy, I thought Central Pneumatic was a cheap Chinese Harbor Freight product.
If you can still find this model. The pump is made in Italy and the motor in mexico. Most of the newer ones are cheap Chinese ones. But every now and then central pneumatic will rebrand really nice products.
Yes it came stock like this
ive looked for your part list but haven't found it you should put that on here
Sheila Marsh Hi Sheila don’t you love it when people post things. And others ask questions and, Hello McFly anyone home? I see this shit all the time. Why post things to help others if your not going to help. Just my 1 Cent.
That's a lot of filters 😎
After the cooler you should run a drop with an automatic drain
UG, thanks for the reply. I will try making my hoses with the barbed fittings. The crimped ones are pricey. So is the crimper.
Ya that is definitely the best way to go :)
Do you know if l can use a hose instead copper cause l am having a HARD TIME trying to bend the copper
Do you know if l can use a hose instead copper
James Rodriguez hose will melt.
@@gunsandgaragegear601 Not if you use hydraulic hose
Amazing setup. Well done!
You are very well informed. Nice video
You made specific mention that your ball valves are full-port. Did you also ensure that your whip hoses are full port? Many of the most commonly sold red ones are not.
I think just 50 ft of piping after the compressor before the Dyer/filter is all you need for the moisture. The auto drain you got from husky on the tank is gonna drain and help the tank but the excess cooler and everything else is just wasting money. The beads and filter is nice to have after to really make sure it’s coming thru clean and dry.
Hi Bud. I am getting a shit ton of water coming out my tools. But... the funny thing is, is I hardly have any water coming out the bottom of tank and I do have a water filter right off the regulator. Not much out of that either. I need some help before I ruin my air tools. No one ever seems to reply. Could you please help? Thanks Big Jim
Why no do the same thing between the fist and second stage?
The reason why your auto tank drain stopped working, is because it has to be angled downwards, or the piston will seize due to the moisture collecting at it. Auto drains work pretty good at keeping your tank moisture levels pretty low. As always though, a real air dryer would be a huge benefit and typically include after coolers in them.
Eyebrows Mahoney thank you, thank you....I've gone threw 2 of those and the diaphragm kept getting stuck and the rubber would fail. mine was plumbed horizontally because of the compressor's low ground clearance. I will re-plumb it tonight
Wesley Jackson Good luck man!
Great job! Would you please advise which B&M cooler and where to get it ?
Nice setup dude
What are the 2 filters (model numbers) coming out of the oil filter and into the tank. Love your videos. Made some changes on my HF sandblaster cabinet.
gorillamotors Filter on your left is HF#68279 and the one on the right is Water Filter Trap Air Compressor F704
What kind of fitting is going into the tank from the black hose. Is your black hose 1/2 inch ?
Wonder if placing the unloader valve directly after the cooler would help purge the tubes? You would need another ball valve between the tank and your filters though.
I need a good moisture remover for my everlast plasma cutter. The cuts are oh so smooth with nice dry air.
Neverlast products are garbage.
Use hard lines the rubber hose will fail the blo n burn up compressor and house down due to compressor not shutting off especially especially
that is moisture trapper madness! :))) great job
Really
I see that the B and M needed replacement. What did you replace it with? Thanks
Did i.count 6 air dryers?
The air compressor kobalt 60 gallon is GOOD OR IS BAD?
Did your b&m cooler cracked at the connection? What happened? I am using the 70274 cooler, i want to make sur i dont run in the same problems...
It rusted through. Someone mention in a comment to angle the cool down a bit so all the water runs out.
What size hoses were you using, looks like 1/2 inch hose
I had 2 of those b&m coolers fail on a compressor...........what you might want to do is to angle the cooler so the bottom nipple is tilting down( NOT STRAIGHT DOWN 15 to 20 degrees) ALLOWING the water in the cooler to drain out and not sit in the cooler when it is not running. Otherwise corrosion will start in the tubing causing it to fail. (cheap thin wall tubing) You had mounted it correctly just needed to be tilted more at a angle
This is a GREAT Idea. Thanks. This a comment taken from an Amazon Review. It appears that flexible hoses would make a longer lasting setup than copper pipe or even stiff hoses. "However, when used as an oil cooler with lines to match the 1/2 pipe ports, the hoses can put too much stress on the bosses and the thin thin thin lower plate they are mounted on. You need some sort of support to take any stress off of the bosses. It would be best to start out with the most flexible lines you can find from your hose store. Some industrial hoses are already too stiff. As the larger hoses age and suffer from heat, they will get stiffer and vibration alone will cause them to stress the thin Mexican aluminum they now use. They should have made it thick enough to take the forces imposed on it by typical engine oil cooler lines. Say, dash 10s or dash 12s. And, all lines get stiffer with heat and age, so engine movement and vibration will end up putting stress on a previously stress-free installation. Of course, if you use slip-on and clamped hoses, they are more flexible, and are less likely to cause a failure."
Are those coolers rated for 155psi? I looked at the spec sheet and couldn't find anything, and oil pressure in an engine is nowhere near that high.
they say 300 psi . so far once i made the connection with a rubber hose instead of a hard mount it's working fine
It what kind of cooler non the back
Brilliant!
so you say full port 1/2 inch but I see your one part said 3/8 on the filter does that matter im just a older lady learning stuff I did just bye the same compressor you have
Sheila Marsh Itz an awesome compressor you gonna really enjoy it!!!
It starts as a half but the filter size is 3/8
A 2 stage compressor is nice if you really need above 13 cfm,,,but they put out extremely hot air compared to single stage,,,and probably twice the moisture
Wouldn't the amount of moisture stored in the system be proportional to the volume of air taken in?
So what cooler is safe to use at an angle?...
....Could I run the copper coil in a ice water bucket directly out of the tank and get the same result? ( as opposed to after the pump) Thanks, Tim
no, the moisture is there because of the large difference in temperature so if you put ice cold air into an ambient temperature tank it would create moisture all the same. In other words ice cold water would not work the same
. you want the intake air to be as close to the ambient air as possible to prevent moisture.
sorry , I meant chillin the air after it leaves the tank...Just trying to turn air into water so then we can separate it out later.
+2ndTimothyOutreach you could but id figure that setup would irrelevant "after leaving the tank" seeing that the tank would have moisture in it from the hot air entering the tank and that would be pushing moist air out, then that would then go through your proposed setup. thing is to combat moisture before it even enters the tank thus reducing moisture, tank corrosion and extending the life of not only your tank but extending life/ of the filters down the line.
Jon I don't understand your logic, the idea is to condense the air to force the moisture out of the air so it can be collected using water traps. The greater the difference in ambient temp and the air in the line the more condensation (moisture) will form on the warmer side of the copper which in this scenario would be the internal side. That condensation would then be easily collected by the water trap.
I would add at least 3 more filters.
Hi UG, what did you end up using for condenser or oil cooler. Which did you replace with after it rusted initially.
Thank you
What is happening is the cooler is causing the water to condense, which makes it easier to remove. There is not less water in the system because of the cooler. (The amount of water going in to the system is directly related to the amount of air going in and its humidity level.) You might even be able to get a lot out with a gravity trap before the pre-tank separator. Good video, nice setup.
UG. love the videos. kept me locked in for the entire duration. Q.... So now that some time has passed. you posted this last may. it's now Feb. How about a sequel video showing how all the components are holding up. Including the compressor. And you gave the model number to the compressor in another video. I was recently in HF and snapped a pic so i could match up model #'s. It's still showing 93274. serial: HOP171873. is this the same as your's? also. what pressure do you run your blaster at and does it keep up just fine? Again love the vids. one of the most informative ones. From Indiana.
Thanks for the video..I sandblast for about an hour or 2 and have lots of water issues and showing up in the pressure pot...How would I find someone to install something like this..I am in Ohio...Plumber?? I don't have time to personally do it..any thoughts? Thanks for all your info..I appreciate it!
Hey I saw your review on the HF website. Did you upgrade your after cooler?
Yes sirrrrrrr I did :)
+UG Studioz with what may I ask
would this effect the CFMS?
I have not notice a change. I did time it and it fills up with or without the aftercooler in the same amount of time so, I don't think it does.
No I have noticed no loss in power.
Absolutely will affect flow rates... might be able to compensate if plumbed hard line instead of all he sections of rubber hose. It with all the filter to hose to filter to hose OVER ENGINEERING, there’s no way flow rates aren’t down some.
If anyone is planning on doing this get a bit of a better cooler the b&m only last about 6 months
+UG Studioz ....what happen to it, did the pipes break?
+2ndTimothyOutreach it seems like it just rusted through
+UG Studioz THANX
Very nice post and very well done sir. I was wondering about the possibility of rust or corrosion or if it would hold the pressure. Obviously it held the pressure. You could use a stainless steel one or mount it with the fittings on the bottom so it drains out every time it's shut off. Just put a drain plug at the bottom of any dips in the copper line as a precaution as the lines are intended to go over then down. I live in the deep south and water is a HUGE problem here. That's why i'm here. You have definitely given me something to think about. You should do a follow up video on this. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith.
I'm sure the moisture doesn't help, but I'm also not sure oil coolers are rated for 155psi. Oil pressure in engines don't go that high.
Hey Brother that is a super job on that compressor,I have the same one a buddy gave me his after the motor went out,I just put a new motor on it and I'm getting ready to plumb. do you do FB. Leave me your info.
Keep up the good work
Do you lose any psi at you secondary regulators with all the filters??
I dont think so. Still fills up in the same amount of time so I really don't think the psi is effected at all. But if your gonna do this get a bit of a better cooler the b&m only last about 6 months
Dude.....cool setup
where did you get your B & M oil cooler for $100. And what is model #
+Compisino Rillera I had the same question. It's a B&M 70266. It has 1/2" NPT connections. I found it for $99 at Amazon and Summit Racing.
+Chad Carter Thanks Chad. I'll be installing cooler on a 6 hp 60 Gal Single Stage Compressor, yours was 2 Stage. It should still work right?
I Just got the New 93274 the pump is still Italy the motor say's Ohio I'm not sure were the tank is from and it was made 7-17-15 I couldn't fine any with the 2014 mfg date. can you pm me all the model # filter and diameter of pipe etc so i can plumb mine like you have yours?
CaptHwdy08 Nice buy thats a great compressor!!!
Man just realized I didn't respond to this you still need this info?
yeah
@@ugstudioz5044 well done brother.
Great video. Very helpful. What's the regulator & water trap you're using right after your main shutoff? In the video around the 1:58 mark. Where did you get that?
Got it at harbor freight man!!!!!!!
UG Studioz thanks dude appreciate the comment back!
+Cody Benjamin of course brotha
how to you install the blue beads?
Wow! Very impressive set up! Great work! Cheers!
Your motor and compressor were hotter before the after cooler was installed because of heat soak.
What is heat soak?
Joe GF heat soak is when shit gets hit!
I dont think you have enough filters lol good video
Bill_nye_the_russianspy _ hahahahaha for real!!!
Did you make your own short lengths of hose? If so, where did you get the crimper?
Great job man. Impressive!
+Richard Disorbo I did make my own length of hose and on the end I just used hose clamps. On 1/2" hose barb fittings.
Yes I did make my own length of hose and all I did for all the connections is just use brass hose barbs and hose clamps.
what type of hose is that one? Where did you get it? thanks
Manny Yabar Hi Bud did you ever get your answer? I was wondering the same thing.
I need one of those set ups for my everlast plasma cutter.
How much does Neverlast pay to have people post comments like yours on every video like this? Incidentally, my old-school Lincoln plasma cutter will outlast 10 of yours.
@@thardyryll Neverlast products are so shitty, they have to hire trolls to try and sell product.
Thank you for your video
that swivel hose looks pretty restrictive
Mr Grinch lol 😂
Use amsoil compressor oil
I see why your oil cooler failed. Another commenter stated that he had two oil coolers fail in a similar installation. It's a corrosion problem, but it's not the oil cooler's fault. You did something that you should never do. You cannot mix copper and aluminum IN WATER. Even the faintest trace of copper will destroy aluminum IN WATER. You could plumb copper tube to the radiator and pump hot oil through it forever. On the other hand, a few drops of water that drip from a copper tube onto aluminum will carry enough copper to destroy the aluminum. Even a few brass fittings upstream of an aluminum water tank will destroy it.
If you could eliminate the copper tubing, or find an oil cooler made of anything but aluminum you would not see that corrosion problem.
I am thinking about doing this too but after reading your comment, I'm not sure what pipe material would be acceptable between the pump and the cooler? Would stainless be a better choice?
Aluminum can be a tricky metal. I'm familiar with marine corrosion problems, which is why I know about the aluminum/copper interaction. Aluminum has some great properties, but they come with alarming downsides. Aluminum boats do typically use stainless steel fittings. The explanation is too lengthy, but aluminum also loses to stainless. It just takes longer. Since the aluminum and stainless steel would not be immersed in salt water while in contact with each other, yes, stainless would be a better choice in this case.
After seeing the video, I looked for my own solution. Stainless tube is tough to work. Copper is far easier, with the giant benefit of conducting heat even better than aluminum. Just get rid of the aluminum altogether! I found a line of Derale oil coolers that are made of copper tubing. There is a Derale 15300 oil cooler with "-8AN" fittings that I want to buy. Those fittings are the same as hydraulic JIC fittings, which I can easily buy locally. Of course I need to add some water reservoir immediately after the air exits the cooler, and the reservoir also cannot be aluminum.
When looking at Derale oil coolers, keep in mind that the 15300 model is a 16 pass unit with the copper tube looping back uphill slightly for 8 of those passes. I'm expecting that some water will condense along the way and cause some puddling, but the air flow should help to blast it along. It may be a better idea to use the 8 pass version of the same cooler where the tubes make S curves from top to bottom. I'll take my chances that condensed water can be blasted along. Some standing water will probably remain but that won't harm the copper.
I’m going to be buying this b&m from jegs for $80. Just use -10an PTFE hose Teflon hose and fittings. They’re on amazon. EVIL ENERGY 16Ft 10AN Stainless Steel Braided Teflon PTFE E85 Fuel Line + 10AN Teflon Hose End Fitting Kit www.amazon.com/dp/B0779ZMTCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pKfEBb4W7D79K
What about using some high-rated rubber hose?
What could you do with a flux capacitor "dang"
You need to cool the air before you send it through the traps, maybe a copper coil .
joe bob billy that's why he has the oil cooler on the back of the fan so it's drawing cold air through the cooler fins and this will turn the vapour to water thus trapping in the filters
That's helpfull, thanks!
At first I gave this video a thumbs up... then buried down in the comments the poster reveals that the B&M cooler corroded away in 6 months. Why not add a pop-up comment at the beginning of the video and a warning in the video description?
Boo - Thumbs down!
Overkilled & Over Engineered.
Wow I hate to see your vehicle. Just kidding.
When's that video coming out?
Haha yea definitely 👍🏼!!!
Lot of plumbing bro
Uuuuummmmmmmmm
No comment... 😂
Very over engineered
My friend, now listen to me; It does NOT matter, is there just moister or gallon of water in your tank, hot or cold, is it dirty or clear. What is matter, is AFTER tank; That air must be clear and cool. Trust me my friend! Why it´s good to cooling the head, is engine it self. casket and so on.. And second; You always drain your tank, after paint job/whatever job. You don´t want dirt in your spray gun.. And; There is ALWAYS moist in your tank, it can´t go anywhere from there.. It does not matter was there water in tank or not, was it clear or not.. Trust me.
Yeah, it does actually matter - the tank rusts faster with larger amounts of moisture/water in it.
@@ElectronPower Just moist or water, same rust effect..
Stop saying ummmmmmm.....! Makes a person not wanna watch