Looks like all hoses from compressor up to the filters are 1/2" I.D. and the two hoses for tools are 3/8" I.D. Wondering if this is the usual standard for shop setups?
This is a great idea and probably the most cost effective one I've seen yet. I may build this but run it between the compressor and tank and then out of the tank and into one of the inline dryers.
That's exactly how I did my system. Used 3/4 copper and ran a bunch of 4 foot zig zag sections in my old water softener salt tank. Then goes out, past some moisture drops, and through a filter and desiccant. Output of compressor reads 250 degrees, line back into tank reads 55 degrees .This This way, hardly any water gets in your tank to rust in the bottom.
Yeah this is probably to best how to video I’ve seen with all the parts linked even!! Great job!! I am going to put mine in place before the tank though.
Excellent video and presentation of the understanding of saturation capacity of air. My aftercooler is a 1/2" od (pressure line) inside a 3/4" water jacket line. I run cold water through the annular opening between the line. Good dry air. I also do a pressure drop between two tanks to provide additional expansion drying of the air as well. One benefit of pressure drop through the hoses and fittings is that this expansion drying will help given the air has no latent water present.
Excellent explaination & demonstration of a good air system & moisture removal principles. Also you mentioned the typical humidity is lower than other places & I understood you chose the single stage cooler (ice water) based upon the estimated moisture load in your ambient air. I want to design & build a comprehensive air compressor system with multiple stages of moisture removal, positioned after the compressor pump & Before the tank, so that the tank Never accumulates any condensate. I live in a hot, high humidity area of south central Texas & must build my system accordingly. I appreciate your presentation, thanks!
If you get a chance to film it running at some point it would be interesting to see how much water gets condensed out and drained. Thanks for the very detailed & well executed video!
Thank you for watching! I may have to do this. I've never actually taken a measurement. And if I'm blasting something small, I typically just blow out the small amount of excess moisture onto the floor rather than drain it out.
I’ve been thinking of possible alternatives to the wall mounted copper design, so your design struck a chord with me. You’ve been very resourceful with sourcing the components. I find myself wondering why you didn’t have the air go in at the bottom and leave from a vertical extension at the top, with a larger sump for the collected water? At up to a certain limit of airflow (determined by the gradient of the pipe and the height of the vertical extension at the top) the water condensing on the walls of the pipe would drain against the airflow under gravity into the sump. The air leaving the condenser would be less likely to carry liquid water through into the post filter.
AWESOME. Thank you. I'm building this tomorrow!!!! Spent all day searching for a dryer, needless to say, 400+ thank you for this, really. Got home and stumbled upon this after video n video of things that where too much. This is cool! No pun intended!
I'll bet it was fun getting that copper tubing connected to the fitting that feeds through the bottom of the bucket. I really appreciated your explanation of psychrometrics. I teach that subject frequently, and it's amazing to me how few people building these coolers really understand WHY there's air in the lines, and how to get rid of it. Many people mistakenly believe the moisture condenses out of the air because of a drop in pressure inside the dryer tubing and that the temperature differential is not necessary. I'm curious why, after all the thought and craftmanship you put into this, you didn't opt to install the dryer between the compressor output and the tank. Although maybe you're someone who just prefers to drain the water out of his tank after each use.
I believe the 120psi is a gauge pressure, so the absolute pressure is 134.7 psi. I think this means that, when compressed, the amount of moisture per volume is now 9x original, rather than 8x.
your point mostly correct but something is off i guess. the moisture in the tank caused by the condensation in the tank. as the mechanical process in the cylinder head generates heat, then it transfer into the cool tank making the hot air condensate into water. the efficient way is to put that coil after the compressor head, before the tank as we want all the condensation process occur in the coil. also put water separator before the tank. then you have 99% dry air and dry tank also.
Installing a 60 gallon air compressor. Using it to operate a 4 post vehicle lift, impact wrench, and potentially other handheld tools. No painting, plasma table, etc. I thought about installing an after cooler like you have designed or vertical copper type with water collection like seen elsewhere on the net. Would you even bother with this given my application? Thanks for the help. Really appreciate your video and feedback.
Excellent video, I’m thinking about making one like yours and installing it in a small shop refrigerator. Would that work as well as the ice idea in your video?
Joe, it would not work as well, for a couple of reasons. For one, heat transfers in water four time faster than in air, meaning that the water draws the heat from the pipe four times quicker in the water. And, the mass of water can hold significantly more heat than air, meaning that the air in the fridge would heat up to the 300 or so degrees of the copper pipe quickly, probably within minutes, and no longer be effective. He can change the water by draining and adding more, or add ice to cool it right back down, but after a couple of minutes the fridge system would be useless. Not a fridge system designed for such a task, mind you, but a system made by simply putting a copper coil inside a small fridge. Scott
@@scottsmith7080 How about a water vessel like his bucket inside the fridge? Seems like manually handling ice & water would be a pain since I run my compressor everyday. Putting his type of system inside a fridge is the logical next step--on the surface, I haven't done any calculations.
Great video, but just a thought, the copper tubing should be insulated/isolated from the perforated metal strap/flat bar. Recipe for galvanic corrosion and potential “boom” hazard amongst other things.
One advantage you don’t explicitly mention is that this design can make the air much drier than an air cooled system can. With an ice bath at 32F, you’ll condense out much more water than you would with copper pipes all at 70F.
It would be best to use plastic for the support frame, else corrosion will occur in the bucket due to dissimilar metals in the cooling water. While draining the bucket between uses will minimize this issue, using plastic, such as pvc pipe would eliminate the issue. It would be ideal to connect after coolers before the tank, but after the check valve/unloader. This necessitates removing the unloader valve from the tank and connecting it directly to the cylinder output lines. The check valve is designed to handle very hot air. Some pipe fittings are needed to connect the after cooler output to the tank. This will cause less water vapor to be pumped into the tank, too, the unloader will not have to vent all the air from the coolers every time the compressor stops.
Funny, I actually thought of this exact same idea about a year ago but when I did a quick estimate on the cost of everything, I ditched the idea as it was very close to a cheap HF dryer. Albeit I planned mine with 3/8 copper and 3/8 copper fittings are stupid expensive.
Being in the compressed air field for over 40 years, I have seen people use old refrigerators with that same coil of tubing inside of the refrigerator. Kind of a cheap refrigerated compressed, air dryer
Im gonna build this but im using smaller copper of 12x1mm instead of 12.7 (i am from europe and that pipe is rare,and all the fittings i have to order online then which jacks up prices due customs )also they sell only 16 foot sections-but my compressor is much smaller so it shouldnt be a problem. I think i might put aquarium pump-cheap one to circulate water since water in motion cools better than water standing still. Im also building my own motoguard toilet paper filter since shipping on those costs almost as filter itself(why cant you be like china -5$ shipping to opposite end of universe) and all the threads are different since we use bspt not npt(i think you could recut some of them not sure). Anyway great video ,thanks for the great idea!
Really nice video. Your physics is good. However, I'm curious as to why you do not "dry" the air before storing it in your compressor? I've watched a number of TH-camrs redirect the air thru a similar "radiator device" prior to storing it in the compressor's tank. Too much work to re-plumb the compressor?
Thanks for your comment! I strongly considered it, yes. But, I didn't have a good way to blow cool air onto the radiator, like a lot of guys do with the pulley systems. I also didn't want water accumulating in the tank.....which I believe it still would with an aftercooler.....even if I put a large diameter pipe with a drop between the radiator and the rest of the supply. I believe this setup allows me to remove the moisture more effectively: after the tank. Finally, if there's ever any breaks due to vibration, it's easier to fix this than the plumbing on the compressor.
Great Video! Question, now that it's been a couple year did you have any corrosion issues with direct contact between the copper and galvanized steel in the bucket?
It's freshwater Not saltwater To stop electrolytic corrosion, what would you use as sacrificial anode and with the galvanized steel or the copper tubing be the Cathodic "ship"
Would this work if you put the cooler in before the air goes in the the tank? Like the radiator coolers. I just want to keep as much water out of the tank as possible.
Absolutely, I see no reason why not. I think it's important to keep the sharp turns down though, so not too many 90-degree angles in the airlines before the tool.
No its still in its original function of storing air.This just takes care of moisture in the air lines and motoguard filter takes care of oil from compressor (unless you use oil free that has teflon coating and plastic piston rings-oil is used as piston lubricant and some of it ends up in air hose )which is bad when you use spray gun to paint cars for example.
From what I understand, the copper setup acts as an air dryer. When air is allowed to cool properly then most of the water content can be removed which helps to maintan your airtools, etc. A water separator that is placed too close to the compressor`s outlet wont help as much since incoming air is at a higher temperature and most of the moisture can escape. Including a water separator filter without any air dryers or alike will cost you extra maintenence to replace the filters etc.
@@threesonsrestorations4043 hi! I wonder if you can actually put this setup to the test. Say what is the temp drop; 1. No ice/water bath 2. No ice/water bath but with a standard fan blowing into the bucket 3. Water bath 4. Ice bath
does the drainpipe at the bottom of the coil fill up with water fairly quickly or is there plenty of volume in the vertical black pipe to collect the water?
Thanks for asking! Fortunately, I live in a low-humidity, dry climate, so I rarely have more than 15-20ml drain out. I also don't tend to use the compressor for more than about 30-45 minutes at a time for my projects. But, I think this will depend highly on your climate and length of use. The nice thing about putting this setup after a regulator is that it's easy to quickly drain the pipe mid-project. I just use some of the excess air under pressure to blow out the pipe. Thank you for watching!
@@threesonsrestorations4043 I really like the idea I think I'll add a coalescing air filter teed off of the drainpipe to help manage the moisture build-up but O really like this setup thanks for the video
Here's one thing that I see with a system like this: Your cold water will start being less cold from the minute you put it in the bucket, even if you don't use the compressor, through natural heat movement. The more heat you put in the bucket, the more that transfers to the water and heating it up, and the less efficient this system will become, even to the point of probably no heat transfer at all if you are using the compressor enough. I couldn't know any numbers, but I would guess this system is only good for short uses of the compressor during summer months (assuming you aren't in a cooled shop)? I'd love to do some measurements on that system. I guess you could keep adding ice to the bucket to try and keep the best efficiency and heat transfer (whatever that factor may be) in the system. It for sure is better than not having any thing so I'm not knocking it. But where I live in east Texas, I'd think we'd need another system. My compressors pump out so much water in the middle of summer. Funny, in winter, I start thinking my system has miraculously cured itself from water vapor issues. Right about this time of year, I start to see water vapor reappear to give me headaches until it cools off again around Nov. Thanks for sharing.
Did you have all those other filters before you added the chiller? I assume you were still having issues with water getting past those filters and that is why you added it? I just added the radiator type to mine and hopefully it helps my system. I haven't used it enough to find out yet. But, I suspect I may have to add another filter or two downline.
No, I put the system all together at one time, with the idea that this chiller would not only be an additional drying step, but also help the filters last longer so I'm not changing them out/emptying as often. I get an idea of what the chiller is doing when I drain the drop just after it. Turns out, the filters haven't really been necessary to this point.
@@threesonsrestorations4043 Glad to hear that it is really effective. Thanks! PS - great quality on your video editing. I know how much work goes into it. Please keep up the good work!
It would not be much more of a step up to build a refrigerated type and performance would be greater. Essentially an air conditioning evaporator that your compressor air runs thru. Evap temp would be similar to that of an AC unit as to not freeze the moisture as it condenses. One simple way around the complex aspect of designing a system is to use a water chiller to cool the bucket of water, thus negating the need to buy ice. This is how i built a refrigerated computer cooler before.
just buy a used ac condensor from junk yard off an old car it has the tube type coils and use a box fan it cools the air and all the water gets cought in the catch filter after the radiator.
1/2 npt compression fitting doesn't fit 1/2 copper. Shouldn't it be 5/8 to 1/2 like the 90 degree elbow 🤔. Also, you didn't give a measurement on where to drill the holes... Still a great video 👍🏾
It's a coupler....click on the affiliated link to see it more closely :-) The holes drilled into the bucket or wall will depend on your own setup. Thanks for your comment!
In theory this is correct but your build of it will only have any condensed water be carried on into the rest of the system with the way you have the oulet at the lowest part of the system. 😢
you run the coiled copper dryer between you compressor and the tools not between the pump and the tank, that's kinda weird, your tank is still filling with water.......
Do you remember during school when the teacher was trying to explain something to the class, did that instructor have loud music playing in the classroom background?? Why do people who post you tube videos seem to have this domineering need to do this ?? WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!........17.3 seconds have past since the last time I checked my cell phone to see if someone called me!!!!!!.....be right back......
If you're too stupid to be able to digest information with background music you're probably too stupid to figure out how to coil up some copper tube and put it in a bucket of water 🤷♂️ This content may just not be for you.
Great Science explanation BUT, you 100% missed a very valuable key point. Your system is still blowing HOT AIR into your tank. The After-Cooler as you described takes the Hot Air and Cools it eliminating even the remotest possibility of water in your tank via droplets. Seems every video I see someone is taking their after tank air thru a self made copper dryer mounted on the wall. While that is effective, it does nothing to extend tank life. No idea WHY folks do not take that into account. Loved the CLEAR bucket. Where in the world did you find it? I found 1 available from U-line but one has to buy 5 of em....ugh.
is that black pipe steel??? if yes, then it's a recipe for a disaster. lucky you have the motorguard. wait till it reaches like a year and you'll be changing that filter element.
So you're using electricity to run the refrigerator cooling system to produce ice? Really? Afaics, The air path is compressor to service line, bypassing the tank?
Geez, why didn't you just cool the air down before going into your tank. It's so crazy seeing people cool their air after the tank. Seriously, it's just a very short coper pipe going from the pump to the tank. Start there first and never use plastic. Get a metal 5 gallon can. Bang bang bang head against wall
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 ธันวาคม 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dNTiBBthKgQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Now THIS is how a walk through DIY video is DONE!!! Great video.
Looks like all hoses from compressor up to the filters are 1/2" I.D. and the two hoses for tools are 3/8" I.D. Wondering if this is the usual standard for shop setups?
This is a great idea and probably the most cost effective one I've seen yet. I may build this but run it between the compressor and tank and then out of the tank and into one of the inline dryers.
That's exactly how I did my system. Used 3/4 copper and ran a bunch of 4 foot zig zag sections in my old water softener salt tank. Then goes out, past some moisture drops, and through a filter and desiccant. Output of compressor reads 250 degrees, line back into tank reads 55 degrees .This This way, hardly any water gets in your tank to rust in the bottom.
The jumper hose would need to be replace by copper tube to handle 270 degree air...
Awesome video, and nice to hear someone REALLY EXPLAIN why we get moisture out of warm compressed air. Great job
Thanks for watching!
Yeah this is probably to best how to video I’ve seen with all the parts linked even!! Great job!! I am going to put mine in place before the tank though.
Really nice explanation of the math about how much moisture there is in the air. Centigrade would have been handy;-)
Excellent video and presentation of the understanding of saturation capacity of air. My aftercooler is a 1/2" od (pressure line) inside a 3/4" water jacket line. I run cold water through the annular opening between the line. Good dry air. I also do a pressure drop between two tanks to provide additional expansion drying of the air as well. One benefit of pressure drop through the hoses and fittings is that this expansion drying will help given the air has no latent water present.
Putting the line inside another is a really good idea, I may have to look into that. Thanks for watching!
Excellent explaination & demonstration of a good air system & moisture removal principles. Also you mentioned the typical humidity is lower than other places & I understood you chose the single stage cooler (ice water) based upon the estimated moisture load in your ambient air.
I want to design & build a comprehensive air compressor system with multiple stages of moisture removal, positioned after the compressor pump & Before the tank, so that the tank Never accumulates any condensate. I live in a hot, high humidity area of south central Texas & must build my system accordingly. I appreciate your presentation, thanks!
If you get a chance to film it running at some point it would be interesting to see how much water gets condensed out and drained. Thanks for the very detailed & well executed video!
Thank you for watching! I may have to do this. I've never actually taken a measurement. And if I'm blasting something small, I typically just blow out the small amount of excess moisture onto the floor rather than drain it out.
Excellent job and explanation on your setup. This is one of the best videos I think I have ever seen in that regard. Good job!
Wow, thanks!
What a fantastic tutorial. It was clear and very well done
Big like! Water cooling is better than air cooling, so your ideea is spot-on! Must do something similar to my garage, sap!
I’ve been thinking of possible alternatives to the wall mounted copper design, so your design struck a chord with me. You’ve been very resourceful with sourcing the components. I find myself wondering why you didn’t have the air go in at the bottom and leave from a vertical extension at the top, with a larger sump for the collected water? At up to a certain limit of airflow (determined by the gradient of the pipe and the height of the vertical extension at the top) the water condensing on the walls of the pipe would drain against the airflow under gravity into the sump. The air leaving the condenser would be less likely to carry liquid water through into the post filter.
AWESOME. Thank you. I'm building this tomorrow!!!! Spent all day searching for a dryer, needless to say, 400+ thank you for this, really. Got home and stumbled upon this after video n video of things that where too much. This is cool! No pun intended!
Glad I could help! Good luck!
I'll bet it was fun getting that copper tubing connected to the fitting that feeds through the bottom of the bucket.
I really appreciated your explanation of psychrometrics. I teach that subject frequently, and it's amazing to me how few people building these coolers really understand WHY there's air in the lines, and how to get rid of it. Many people mistakenly believe the moisture condenses out of the air because of a drop in pressure inside the dryer tubing and that the temperature differential is not necessary.
I'm curious why, after all the thought and craftmanship you put into this, you didn't opt to install the dryer between the compressor output and the tank. Although maybe you're someone who just prefers to drain the water out of his tank after each use.
Excellent presentation and such useful details !! Subscribed!!!
Brilliant, cool air is also best for paint spraying.
How much to make it this looks like over kill but a very good idea
I believe the 120psi is a gauge pressure, so the absolute pressure is 134.7 psi. I think this means that, when compressed, the amount of moisture per volume is now 9x original, rather than 8x.
your point mostly correct but something is off i guess. the moisture in the tank caused by the condensation in the tank. as the mechanical process in the cylinder head generates heat, then it transfer into the cool tank making the hot air condensate into water. the efficient way is to put that coil after the compressor head, before the tank as we want all the condensation process occur in the coil. also put water separator before the tank. then you have 99% dry air and dry tank also.
Installing a 60 gallon air compressor. Using it to operate a 4 post vehicle lift, impact wrench, and potentially other handheld tools. No painting, plasma table, etc. I thought about installing an after cooler like you have designed or vertical copper type with water collection like seen elsewhere on the net. Would you even bother with this given my application? Thanks for the help. Really appreciate your video and feedback.
How about running it through a small chest freezer instead of a bucket of water, or a bucket of water in a mini fridge ?
Excellent video, I’m thinking about making one like yours and installing it in a small shop refrigerator. Would that work as well as the ice idea in your video?
Joe, it would not work as well, for a couple of reasons. For one, heat transfers in water four time faster than in air, meaning that the water draws the heat from the pipe four times quicker in the water. And, the mass of water can hold significantly more heat than air, meaning that the air in the fridge would heat up to the 300 or so degrees of the copper pipe quickly, probably within minutes, and no longer be effective. He can change the water by draining and adding more, or add ice to cool it right back down, but after a couple of minutes the fridge system would be useless. Not a fridge system designed for such a task, mind you, but a system made by simply putting a copper coil inside a small fridge. Scott
@@scottsmith7080 How about a water vessel like his bucket inside the fridge? Seems like manually handling ice & water would be a pain since I run my compressor everyday. Putting his type of system inside a fridge is the logical next step--on the surface, I haven't done any calculations.
slick setup, great explanation.
Great animations and graphics.
Great video, but just a thought, the copper tubing should be insulated/isolated from the perforated metal strap/flat bar. Recipe for galvanic corrosion and potential “boom” hazard amongst other things.
One advantage you don’t explicitly mention is that this design can make the air much drier than an air cooled system can. With an ice bath at 32F, you’ll condense out much more water than you would with copper pipes all at 70F.
Awesome video! But flip that angle grinder over when cutting…
if you combine this with the aftercooler, you should get considerable more use out of your icewater ;-)
I'm trying to understand what the punch bar in the bucket is for. I might be missing it, but I'm not hearing the reason for that.
It would be best to use plastic for the support frame, else corrosion will occur in the bucket due to dissimilar metals in the cooling water. While draining the bucket between uses will minimize this issue, using plastic, such as pvc pipe would eliminate the issue. It would be ideal to connect after coolers before the tank, but after the check valve/unloader. This necessitates removing the unloader valve from the tank and connecting it directly to the cylinder output lines. The check valve is designed to handle very hot air. Some pipe fittings are needed to connect the after cooler output to the tank. This will cause less water vapor to be pumped into the tank, too, the unloader will not have to vent all the air from the coolers every time the compressor stops.
Funny, I actually thought of this exact same idea about a year ago but when I did a quick estimate on the cost of everything, I ditched the idea as it was very close to a cheap HF dryer. Albeit I planned mine with 3/8 copper and 3/8 copper fittings are stupid expensive.
Being in the compressed air field for over 40 years, I have seen people use old refrigerators with that same coil of tubing inside of the refrigerator.
Kind of a cheap refrigerated compressed, air dryer
Exactly what I'm planning with a dorm fridge a rental tenant left behind. Wondering why more folks don't do it.
more than likely they just don’t know
for the coil, what are its internal and external dimensions? that one youre using looks much larger than the specs included would indicate
Im gonna build this but im using smaller copper of 12x1mm instead of 12.7 (i am from europe and that pipe is rare,and all the fittings i have to order online then which jacks up prices due customs )also they sell only 16 foot sections-but my compressor is much smaller so it shouldnt be a problem. I think i might put aquarium pump-cheap one to circulate water since water in motion cools better than water standing still.
Im also building my own motoguard toilet paper filter since shipping on those costs almost as filter itself(why cant you be like china -5$ shipping to opposite end of universe) and all the threads are different since we use bspt not npt(i think you could recut some of them not sure).
Anyway great video ,thanks for the great idea!
Excellent video presented very nice. Thank you.
One item is out of stock everywhere... Bucket holder. How about a clear 5 gal pal?
Really nice video. Your physics is good. However, I'm curious as to why you do not "dry" the air before storing it in your compressor? I've watched a number of TH-camrs redirect the air thru a similar "radiator device" prior to storing it in the compressor's tank. Too much work to re-plumb the compressor?
Thanks for your comment! I strongly considered it, yes. But, I didn't have a good way to blow cool air onto the radiator, like a lot of guys do with the pulley systems. I also didn't want water accumulating in the tank.....which I believe it still would with an aftercooler.....even if I put a large diameter pipe with a drop between the radiator and the rest of the supply. I believe this setup allows me to remove the moisture more effectively: after the tank. Finally, if there's ever any breaks due to vibration, it's easier to fix this than the plumbing on the compressor.
Upon careful observation, I think you have cleverly converted your air compressor into a moonshine still. lol
How has this been working for you? My concern with this type of air cooler is water laying in that bucket and growing things.
Great Video! Question, now that it's been a couple year did you have any corrosion issues with direct contact between the copper and galvanized steel in the bucket?
It's freshwater
Not saltwater
To stop electrolytic corrosion, what would you use as sacrificial anode and with the galvanized steel or the copper tubing be the Cathodic "ship"
Would this work with an air hose instead of copper tube?
Would this work for a 4 gallon compressor to use with my airbrush to sandblast and Cerakote?
I like that idea.
Forgive my ignorance, do you actually fill the bucket with ice?
yes and water
Would this work with just cold faucet water instead of ice?
Sure!
Would this work if you put the cooler in before the air goes in the the tank? Like the radiator coolers. I just want to keep as much water out of the tank as possible.
Absolutely, I see no reason why not. I think it's important to keep the sharp turns down though, so not too many 90-degree angles in the airlines before the tool.
So is the compressor tank out of the system altogether?
No its still in its original function of storing air.This just takes care of moisture in the air lines and motoguard filter takes care of oil from compressor (unless you use oil free that has teflon coating and plastic piston rings-oil is used as piston lubricant and some of it ends up in air hose )which is bad when you use spray gun to paint cars for example.
Shouldn't the cold air be dumping into the compressor tank first so the tank doesn't fill with water, after all the tank is a huge part of the system.
my thoughts exactly
Did anyone ever use refrigeration copper y bends instead of 90s and tees to make a compressor air dryer just wondering if it would work
Very good, BUT using a grinder the way you showed at 4:32 is a great way to cut your gut open, never in push, always in pull.
What's the difference between using copper setups like this and a water separator filter?
From what I understand, the copper setup acts as an air dryer. When air is allowed to cool properly then most of the water content can be removed which helps to maintan your airtools, etc.
A water separator that is placed too close to the compressor`s outlet wont help as much since incoming air is at a higher temperature and most of the moisture can escape. Including a water separator filter without any air dryers or alike will cost you extra maintenence to replace the filters etc.
This is exactly correct!
@@threesonsrestorations4043 hi! I wonder if you can actually put this setup to the test. Say what is the temp drop;
1. No ice/water bath
2. No ice/water bath but with a standard fan blowing into the bucket
3. Water bath
4. Ice bath
Well done.
does the drainpipe at the bottom of the coil fill up with water fairly quickly or is there plenty of volume in the vertical black pipe to collect the water?
Thanks for asking! Fortunately, I live in a low-humidity, dry climate, so I rarely have more than 15-20ml drain out. I also don't tend to use the compressor for more than about 30-45 minutes at a time for my projects. But, I think this will depend highly on your climate and length of use.
The nice thing about putting this setup after a regulator is that it's easy to quickly drain the pipe mid-project. I just use some of the excess air under pressure to blow out the pipe. Thank you for watching!
@@threesonsrestorations4043 I really like the idea I think I'll add a coalescing air filter teed off of the drainpipe to help manage the moisture build-up but O really like this setup thanks for the video
@@threesonsrestorations4043 yea I live in Ohio right on the lake so there's no lack of moisture in the air lol
Great job!
Here's one thing that I see with a system like this: Your cold water will start being less cold from the minute you put it in the bucket, even if you don't use the compressor, through natural heat movement. The more heat you put in the bucket, the more that transfers to the water and heating it up, and the less efficient this system will become, even to the point of probably no heat transfer at all if you are using the compressor enough. I couldn't know any numbers, but I would guess this system is only good for short uses of the compressor during summer months (assuming you aren't in a cooled shop)? I'd love to do some measurements on that system. I guess you could keep adding ice to the bucket to try and keep the best efficiency and heat transfer (whatever that factor may be) in the system. It for sure is better than not having any thing so I'm not knocking it. But where I live in east Texas, I'd think we'd need another system. My compressors pump out so much water in the middle of summer. Funny, in winter, I start thinking my system has miraculously cured itself from water vapor issues. Right about this time of year, I start to see water vapor reappear to give me headaches until it cools off again around Nov. Thanks for sharing.
did you really justvwrite this? you stupid mthfkr...we are laughing at you...screen shotted and sharing with our company engineers😂😂😂😂😂😂
How is the noise level that close to your workstation?
Pretty loud, but it would be that way no matter where it is in my 2-car garage. For that reason, I wear hearing protection!
Did you have all those other filters before you added the chiller? I assume you were still having issues with water getting past those filters and that is why you added it? I just added the radiator type to mine and hopefully it helps my system. I haven't used it enough to find out yet. But, I suspect I may have to add another filter or two downline.
No, I put the system all together at one time, with the idea that this chiller would not only be an additional drying step, but also help the filters last longer so I'm not changing them out/emptying as often. I get an idea of what the chiller is doing when I drain the drop just after it. Turns out, the filters haven't really been necessary to this point.
@@threesonsrestorations4043 Glad to hear that it is really effective. Thanks! PS - great quality on your video editing. I know how much work goes into it. Please keep up the good work!
It would not be much more of a step up to build a refrigerated type and performance would be greater. Essentially an air conditioning evaporator that your compressor air runs thru. Evap temp would be similar to that of an AC unit as to not freeze the moisture as it condenses. One simple way around the complex aspect of designing a system is to use a water chiller to cool the bucket of water, thus negating the need to buy ice. This is how i built a refrigerated computer cooler before.
Hi man do you use 1/2 inch copper?
So how long you need for your setup?
just buy a used ac condensor from junk yard off an old car it has the tube type coils and use a box fan it cools the air and all the water gets cought in the catch filter after the radiator.
1/2 npt compression fitting doesn't fit 1/2 copper. Shouldn't it be 5/8 to 1/2 like the 90 degree elbow 🤔. Also, you didn't give a measurement on where to drill the holes... Still a great video 👍🏾
It's a coupler....click on the affiliated link to see it more closely :-)
The holes drilled into the bucket or wall will depend on your own setup. Thanks for your comment!
In theory this is correct but your build of it will only have any condensed water be carried on into the rest of the system with the way you have the oulet at the lowest part of the system. 😢
you run the coiled copper dryer between you compressor and the tools not between the pump and the tank, that's kinda weird, your tank is still filling with water.......
who gives a shyt. buy another 1 in 5 years bruh
Instead of a bucket, should have got a wine fridge
Do you remember during school when the teacher was trying to explain something to the class, did that instructor have loud music playing in the classroom background?? Why do people who post you tube videos seem to have this domineering need to do this ?? WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!........17.3 seconds have past since the last time I checked my cell phone to see if someone called me!!!!!!.....be right back......
If you're too stupid to be able to digest information with background music you're probably too stupid to figure out how to coil up some copper tube and put it in a bucket of water 🤷♂️
This content may just not be for you.
Great Science explanation BUT, you 100% missed a very valuable key point. Your system is still blowing HOT AIR into your tank. The After-Cooler as you described takes the Hot Air and Cools it eliminating even the remotest possibility of water in your tank via droplets. Seems every video I see someone is taking their after tank air thru a self made copper dryer mounted on the wall. While that is effective, it does nothing to extend tank life. No idea WHY folks do not take that into account.
Loved the CLEAR bucket. Where in the world did you find it? I found 1 available from U-line but one has to buy 5 of em....ugh.
is that black pipe steel??? if yes, then it's a recipe for a disaster. lucky you have the motorguard. wait till it reaches like a year and you'll be changing that filter element.
Thank you for watching!
So you're using electricity to run the refrigerator cooling system to produce ice?
Really?
Afaics, The air path is compressor to service line, bypassing the tank?
Geez, why didn't you just cool the air down before going into your tank. It's so crazy seeing people cool their air after the tank. Seriously, it's just a very short coper pipe going from the pump to the tank. Start there first and never use plastic. Get a metal 5 gallon can. Bang bang bang head against wall
Thanks for watching!
Hahaha does my head in using imperial and metric together hahaha when will you Americans go metric????
Way too much time spent stating the obvious and no real discussion on how well it works.
Thank you, appreciate you continuing to make America great!