Absolutely the best step by step video. I needed this. This will save me hundreds even thousands of dollars. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
This video was suoer useful. I have an AU1 ute with a t5 box. Fairly certain the flywheel bolts are loose and wasnt too sure on how to pull the box. Obviously its really easy which is good to know
@13:00 what software and scan tool are you using to read the live data? and i wanted to see you putting it back in... ive done this job a couple of times before.. and getting it back in is a lot harder than getting it out... you have to get the car up as high as you can to gove room to get the box out from under there ..trying to lift the box up onto the trolley jack when under the car sucks as well as getting it balanced and correctly positioned.. try lifting a 100kg weight up while on your back with your hands over your head, doing it by yourself.. i wanted to see how you did that part
Hi mate. The software is called Forscan th-cam.com/video/tvGp7Zxe6H0/w-d-xo.html I completely agree with you with how hard it is and watching the install would have been good. The problem was I had only the day to do this job at old mates house. I wanted to work on a clean floor and not on the drive way again. My mates Mrs and I don't see eye to eye so I had to be out before his Mrs got back :) Recording the install would have taken me longer and I was in rush mode by this time. I had a really good install and probably the quickest and easiest install yet. No help and after a few attempts and fails of getting the box on the jack I had a "Moment" and in my rage I put my legs on the jack and pulled that bad boy onto the jack. It went up and aligned in one go and I had to triple check to make shore I wasn't missing something. It was a good day. Have a good one mate. Cheers.
It's actually quite easy to install something like this by yourself all you need in commen sense to make it easier, use a ratchet strap to stop the trans from falling etc. Or just be a man and bench it in like I do, use my knees to help while I put a couple bolts in.
Nice ! I see you used trolley jack + wood blocks to support the transmission pan. I presumed the pan would be too "soft". Glad it took the load . Whereabouts did you get your block of wood/dimensions? thkx
Cheers. The transmission pan can handle being put directly on the big jack like the one I have but can be damaged with a smaller jack. I used wood to play it safe. I got a $9 sleeper from Bunnings and cut it to the size I was happy with.
Great video mate, I’ve got a 1999AU wagon with fully slipping clutch discs, burnt out on a steep hill. Can you give any advice on finding a replacement transmission cheap and what model would fit? Car had only done 250K. Thanks
If you only have a slipping clutch you can just have the clutch repaired. Is the gearbox hard to change gears, missing a gear or something? We are talking about a Manual not Automatic correct? With transmissions it really comes down to how much it costs and how many Ks it has. Second hand you never know the history, was it looked after or not. Reco can cost about $3k. One with low Ks about 140k would be about $1k and 300k plus about $500-$700. Have a look online and call a few wreckers if you need to replace the transmission.
@@TEKNOFIED Thanks for replying - It is an AU - 1 falcon forte 1999 wagon - Auto transmission, with duel fuel fitted ie LPG - is it even worth repairing - body is beat up, car prob not worth $1000 got 240K on clock but engine still runs ok? Would i be better off buying a replacement wagon?
Excellent rundown, I've had a few issues with same gearbox ( btr) due to different reasons, I'll give you some of them : 1. I used to loose oil if I parked on a really steep hill, from memory it was rear seal, but was a long time ago, never repaired it, stopped parking on steep hills! 2. car got flooded one time, the white plastic switch on outside of gearbox, although it has waterproof case got some water in it, cleaned up all the contacts in it and was fine after that ( hard to get apart without breaking the plastic tabs that hold it together. 3. had issues with solenoids, unfortunately they cant be taken apart to be cleaned, well land truly sealed when made ( moulded plastic case). ( variable pressure solenoid might be able to be taken apart, never tried though). but worked out a really nice way of testing ( my posts are bottom half on this link: fordmods.com/gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/testing-btr-shift-solenoids-I . I show how to use large syringe to pressure test them, works a treat and dead simple. Some of them dont seal off completely and leak/loose pressure, only way to test for that is pressure test, so even if resistance is ok, and you can hear them clicking on/off, still need to know if they are turning fully on/off. 4 low oil levels, get slippage of gears, is good sign oil is getting low. 5. I always thought there were brown and black solenoids, someone told me the black ones were brown ones that got hot......, seems they are all brown ( except variable one). I could be wrong but makes sense.
Thanks for that. Back in Jul 2021 After my last fluid change I couldn't remove the fill bolt. Threaded the bolt head and broke a socket trying. So I pumped 4L in from the front lines (I don't believe I did any damage filling the box that way). 4L is the standard amount so I thought I was good to go. Gears slipping so much the car hardly moved. Then pumped in 500ml more at a time until it was good again. so all up my box now had 5.5L, I have a cooler so I thought maybe I needed that little extra. It run good for a long time until about 3 months ago I started to notice it would slip turning right only when cold. Engine light in my head said I am low on fluid, as I never saw any sighs of leaking fluid I thought I better get a fluid change done soon anyway. Such as life I just hadn't got to it yet. Then one week before deciding to do a box swap on the way home the transmission went into 2nd and wouldn't change at all no 1st gear either. Limp home mode. I managed to drive it home. still no signs of leaking when I checked. It Wasn't until I pulled the box off is when I found I did have a front seal leak. Oh well jobs done now. I tried to look at the link you shared. Confirmation code is really hard to read I ended up getting lock out of the site. (exceeded the maximum number of registration attempts) I will try to register again another time and have a look. Cheers.
@@TEKNOFIED oh you couldn't get into that site? I'll do a youtube video at some stage of testing the solenoids with syringe, even if they do turn on/off need to find out if they leak or not. Most solenoid testing videos on youtube only show read resistance and see if they click when powered on. I changed the valve body on my falcon some time back, couldn't be bothered going through all the testing again, needed it fixed asap. So just bought a second hand box that was good and swapped valve body. Pretty simple compared to swapping whole box. I fill through the cooling lines also, its pretty slow. I just go through a cooler rather than the radiator, that way no chance of water in box if radiator leaks into oil. Torque converter holds a hell of alot of oil, maybe near 3 litres plus. So its hard to change out all the oil, really takes 3 or so refills to clean out all the old oil. You did the real seal too? I see on the vid your hammering at the rear, but not sure if its a new seal?
that white box on outside of gearbox, its has a whole heap of brass contacts in it, it tells computer which gearshift position is selected. It has a rubber seal inside it, will keep most moisture out, except my car submerged during road flood some time back and had to clean it out. Normally I dont think would need to open it up.
@@namenotshown9277 Still having trouble getting in that site. I replaced both front and real seal with new. I will be very interested to watch your clip when you do get around to making it.
@@namenotshown9277 The Neutral safety switch I believe it is could? also could have been part of my problem on the old box. I had an EL that worked great. I gave the car a pressure wash one day and got water in that switch. The car had a mind of it's own after that. shifting up and down gears at random. I replaced it and the car was back to normal. That's why a said in my vid, keeps them parts, might need them one day. I think I will make a video opening the old on.
Absolutely the best step by step video. I needed this. This will save me hundreds even thousands of dollars. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Great to hear!
Thanks for giving the bolt sizes that's really helpful, great video 👍
This video was suoer useful. I have an AU1 ute with a t5 box. Fairly certain the flywheel bolts are loose and wasnt too sure on how to pull the box. Obviously its really easy which is good to know
Thanks, excellent video. It looks I am going to do this on my falcon soon.
Hope it all goes to plan. Just make sure you are not left without a car. A 6 hour job can sometimes turn into a 2 day job.
Fantastic video! I plan on doing my Expedition soon and this will come in handy. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent and timely. My main seal and extension housing end seal are both gone Might as well do it. Ta. Big help.
Great job very well detailed install keep up the great work.
Well done and thanks for posting this up! Hoping it's not too different from an FG. Cheers
Should be very much the same. Cheers
Great job, very informative. Thank You.
Thanks for watching!
@13:00 what software and scan tool are you using to read the live data?
and i wanted to see you putting it back in... ive done this job a couple of times before.. and getting it back in is a lot harder than getting it out... you have to get the car up as high as you can to gove room to get the box out from under there ..trying to lift the box up onto the trolley jack when under the car sucks as well as getting it balanced and correctly positioned.. try lifting a 100kg weight up while on your back with your hands over your head, doing it by yourself.. i wanted to see how you did that part
Hi mate. The software is called Forscan th-cam.com/video/tvGp7Zxe6H0/w-d-xo.html
I completely agree with you with how hard it is and watching the install would have been good.
The problem was I had only the day to do this job at old mates house. I wanted to work on a clean floor and not
on the drive way again. My mates Mrs and I don't see eye to eye so I had to be out before his Mrs got back :)
Recording the install would have taken me longer and I was in rush mode by this time.
I had a really good install and probably the quickest and easiest install yet.
No help and after a few attempts and fails of getting the box on the jack I had a "Moment" and in my rage
I put my legs on the jack and pulled that bad boy onto the jack. It went up and aligned in one go and I had to triple check to make shore I wasn't missing something. It was a good day. Have a good one mate. Cheers.
It's actually quite easy to install something like this by yourself all you need in commen sense to make it easier, use a ratchet strap to stop the trans from falling etc. Or just be a man and bench it in like I do, use my knees to help while I put a couple bolts in.
Nice ! I see you used trolley jack + wood blocks to support the transmission pan. I presumed the pan would be too "soft". Glad it took the load . Whereabouts did you get your block of wood/dimensions? thkx
Cheers. The transmission pan can handle being put directly on the big jack like the one I have but can be damaged with a smaller jack. I used wood to play it safe. I got a $9 sleeper from Bunnings and cut it to the size I was happy with.
Great video mate, I’ve got a 1999AU wagon with fully slipping clutch discs, burnt out on a steep hill. Can you give any advice on finding a replacement transmission cheap and what model would fit? Car had only done 250K. Thanks
If you only have a slipping clutch you can just have the clutch repaired. Is the gearbox hard to change gears, missing a gear or something? We are talking about a Manual not Automatic correct? With transmissions it really comes down to how much it costs and how many Ks it has. Second hand you never know the history, was it looked after or not. Reco can cost about $3k. One with low Ks about 140k would be about $1k and 300k plus about $500-$700. Have a look online and call a few wreckers if you need to replace the transmission.
@@TEKNOFIED Thanks for replying - It is an AU - 1 falcon forte 1999 wagon - Auto transmission, with duel fuel fitted ie LPG - is it even worth repairing - body is beat up, car prob not worth $1000 got 240K on clock but engine still runs ok? Would i be better off buying a replacement wagon?
Can I use the transmission from a 2001ford au sedan in my 2001 ford au ute ???
Most definitely.
Hello, is there much difference replacing a BA falcon gearbox compared to the AU? Thanks
Not really. Differant types of power connections and gear selector link but basically the same job.
Excellent rundown, I've had a few issues with same gearbox ( btr) due to different reasons,
I'll give you some of them :
1. I used to loose oil if I parked on a really steep hill, from memory it was rear seal, but was a long time ago, never repaired it, stopped parking on steep hills!
2. car got flooded one time, the white plastic switch on outside of gearbox, although it has waterproof case got some water in it, cleaned up all the contacts in it and was fine after that ( hard to get apart without breaking the plastic tabs that hold it together.
3. had issues with solenoids, unfortunately they cant be taken apart to be cleaned, well land truly sealed when made ( moulded plastic case). ( variable pressure solenoid might be able to be taken apart, never tried though).
but worked out a really nice way of testing ( my posts are bottom half on this link:
fordmods.com/gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/testing-btr-shift-solenoids-I .
I show how to use large syringe to pressure test them, works a treat and dead simple.
Some of them dont seal off completely and leak/loose pressure, only way to test for that is pressure test, so even if resistance is ok, and you can hear them clicking on/off, still need to know if they are turning fully on/off.
4 low oil levels, get slippage of gears, is good sign oil is getting low.
5. I always thought there were brown and black solenoids, someone told me the black ones were brown ones that got hot......, seems they are all brown ( except variable one).
I could be wrong but makes sense.
Thanks for that.
Back in Jul 2021 After my last fluid change I couldn't remove the fill bolt. Threaded the bolt head and broke a socket trying. So I pumped 4L in from the front lines (I don't believe I did any damage filling the box that way). 4L is the standard amount so I thought I was good to go.
Gears slipping so much the car hardly moved. Then pumped in 500ml more at a time until it was good again. so all up my box now had 5.5L,
I have a cooler so I thought maybe I needed that little extra. It run good for a long time until about 3 months ago I started to notice it would slip turning right only when cold. Engine light in my head said I am low on fluid, as I never saw any sighs of leaking fluid I thought I better get a fluid change done soon anyway.
Such as life I just hadn't got to it yet.
Then one week before deciding to do a box swap on the way home the transmission went into 2nd and wouldn't change at all no 1st gear either. Limp home mode.
I managed to drive it home. still no signs of leaking when I checked.
It Wasn't until I pulled the box off is when I found I did have a front seal leak. Oh well jobs done now.
I tried to look at the link you shared. Confirmation code is really hard to read I ended up getting lock out of the site. (exceeded the maximum number of registration attempts) I will try to register again another time and have a look. Cheers.
@@TEKNOFIED oh you couldn't get into that site? I'll do a youtube video at some stage of testing the solenoids with syringe, even if they do turn on/off need to find out if they leak or not. Most solenoid testing videos on youtube only show read resistance and see if they click when powered on.
I changed the valve body on my falcon some time back, couldn't be bothered going through all the testing again, needed it fixed asap. So just bought a second hand box that was good and swapped valve body.
Pretty simple compared to swapping whole box.
I fill through the cooling lines also, its pretty slow.
I just go through a cooler rather than the radiator, that way no chance of water in box if radiator leaks into oil.
Torque converter holds a hell of alot of oil, maybe near 3 litres plus.
So its hard to change out all the oil, really takes 3 or so refills to clean out all the old oil.
You did the real seal too? I see on the vid your hammering at the rear, but not sure if its a new seal?
that white box on outside of gearbox, its has a whole heap of brass contacts in it, it tells computer which gearshift position is selected.
It has a rubber seal inside it, will keep most moisture out, except my car submerged during road flood some time back and had to clean it out.
Normally I dont think would need to open it up.
@@namenotshown9277 Still having trouble getting in that site. I replaced both front and real seal with new. I will be very interested to watch your clip when you do get around to making it.
@@namenotshown9277 The Neutral safety switch I believe it is could? also could have been part of my problem on the old box. I had an EL that worked great. I gave the car a pressure wash one day and got water in that switch. The car had a mind of it's own after that. shifting up and down gears at random. I replaced it and the car was back to normal. That's why a said in my vid, keeps them parts, might need them one day. I think I will make a video opening the old on.