By about 4:50 I had become bored and began thinking, first about the metal shavings dulling your bit without the use of oil, then about Mafia torture using the drill into someone's hand - and how much money it would take for me to willingly let them drill into my hand. 1 million? 5 million? And was listening to your video considered torture? Answer: No, it wasn't. Not when you used such terms as your teal duo. Makati forever.
Like that vice ! Did you make it or buy it ? If bought where ? If made please make a video of that very cool looks like it goes in a 2 inch reciever hitch
It's a Wilton hitch vice. It's not a great vice, but works very well on my welding cart. There's a longer than normal pin holding it into the receiver, so I can actually hang the vice off the side of the receiver when storing it. Then it's not in the way. I bought it from Princess Auto (like Harbor Freight) but I'm guessing you could find them from any retailer that carries Wilton products.
Nicely done. The material you used is/was actually HREWS (hot rolled electrically welded steel) not HSS (high speed steel). Other than that, job well done.
This was explained in a later video because apparently there is a lot of ignorance on the subject. HSS is "Hollow Structural Sections," it's a generic term for tube materials, but colloquially we refer to round HSS as "tube" or "pipe" and square or rectangular as HSS, as it disambiguates the three types of hollow steels. Otherwise 2" tube could mean 2" square, or 2" round. Typically I purchase ASTM A500 [dimensional label] HSS, and is marked as such. If you look at most of the square/rectangular tubing you will see it is marked as HSS, although it may not specifically be ASTM A500. Pipe and round tubing will not typically bear the HSS marking, at least in my experience, although they technically fall under this label. The use of the term HSS for "High Speed Steel" is obviously only something that would be applied if working with tool steel, which would be ASTM A600, AISI M42, something similar. If you would like to see this term used by industry, as you may still doubt me, I will refer you to the Atlas Tube website. www.atlastube.com/products/astm-a500/
2drx4 Ignorance? Ignorance you say? Perhaps in the world of academia or architecture it may be hollow structural steel but in the blue collar, I make a living welding and machining, been doing this for 40 years world, HSS is high speed steel. If I called my primary material supplier, Industrial Metal Service, and asked for a 20 foot stick of 2x4 HSS, they would think I lost my mind. If you doubt the validity of the most common use of the acronym HSS, simply Google "What is HSS" and see what comes up first.
I can assure you that any metal supplier I walk into in this part of the world will know exactly what I mean when I say HSS in that context. Like I said, it's printed right on the steel...
Although I will admit that Google results are not clean, they are all based on what you have done on the internet. Using an unbiased search (DuckDuckGo) will produce a mixed results, with a fairly even split between it meaning High Speed Steel, Hollow Structural Section, and various things that decidedly have nothing to do with steel. I will point out that I used the word colloquially in my first response to you, which implies that I am aware that this nomenclature may not be standard in all regions. Anyways, thanks for watching.
As a welder for 20+ yrs, I would make sure you cover up when welding, arms included. I have seen more than a few ppl develop cancer from exposure like that. Doesnt take much.
I had massive amounts of sunscreen on for that, but you are correct and I've worn my skins in the later movies as a response to people commenting on it. I try to set a reasonable example for safety. Thanks for watching!
For being a cheap rear bumper the amount of work that went into building it definitely brought alot of respect and it doesn't look bad at all considering the amount of work aswell as not following the body lines as good as some bumpers. It looks awesome
My friend wants me to use my everlast welder to make him a custom bumper. I'm not sure I'm quite ready for the task now although I really enjoyed watching you make yours.
The gold "titanium" ones are Canadian Tire, so they're on par with Harbor Freight. Basically buy them cheap and use them a couple times, then toss them. The black HSS ones are Lenox or Milwaukee and they're much better quality but 20 times the price.
Excelente trabajo amigoe gustó mucho pasó a paso cómo lo hiciste y ante todo la seguridad en el esmeril nunca le quitaste la protección para los cortes
Nice build and great documentation. ..why not bevel weld (full pen) those 2 wrap around ends (the pieces you can use the hilift from) then grind them flush with rest of bumper?
I think I've done a little better in the newer videos. That was my first attempt at doing that. It wasn't until the last video (the J truck one) that I finally got a proper microphone to work, I had some hardware/software incompatibility issues.
I like how you opened up the end of the unibody frame to make a more substantial mount for your bumper. your design is good and is sturdy -- but in my opinion, recreation of the rear bumper mounting plates is a bit of a waste of effort, materials and time. - after the hole/rectangular opening was made and the nut strips removed you could have simply inserted a rectangular stick (one per side) of tubing with flat bar/strips of plate shims as needed. (in order to accomplish inserting a tube of rectangular tubing into the "frame rails" the rear shackle bolts would have to be backed out enough to give the tubing room to slide in & either drill a hole into the tube to correspond with the shackle bolt or simply shorten the shackle bolts) and then drill bolt holes all the way through from the underside of the frame (existing holes of the hitch mount) through the tubing upward into the cargo area, a strip of plate on top (inside the cargo area) and on the bottom of the frame rail and two (or however many bolts you desire per side) long bolts all the way through from the top to the bottom & done. end result would be 2 sticks of 2x4 tubing extended out the rear "frame rails" to build your new bumper off of. (sorry this description may be sort of vague or hard to understand, but it is the way I built my xj bumper system yrs ago & thought it may help someone looking at this video)
Unfortunately I did them before I started making videos. The rockers are replaced with 6x2x.188 HSS. I may wind up doing the same on my Comanche that I'm working on right now though, in which case I will show it.
@@2drx4 I hear you, I've just made a rear bumper for my rubi and did not film it but generally only publish wheeling videos on my channel. Maybe that will change to show the work we put into our rigs in the future. I really look forward to watching the Comanche build, we only have a few of them her in Australia.
I have a fully built XJ on 60’s double triangulated rear suspension and a custom 3 link front and Fox racing 20” nitrogen shocks with 38” Nitto Mud Grapplers, bead locks and full PSC hydro steering and I’m getting ready to build my bumpers and I will be “stealing” your ideas a little! Everything on my XJ was built by me in my shop and the satisfaction of people complimenting my work is awesome and she’ll do some crazy shit in the trails and I love it... keep up the quality work brother, I don’t see many people go to the lengths that we do and it shows in the final product!
It's about 2.5" of lift and 37x13.5R17 Toyo M/Ts in this video. Massive rework was done to the inner fenders. Ultimately I lifted it a bit more as the front suspension and steering wasn't as workable at that height as I would have liked.
Hey 2drx4! I really enjoy your videos! I'd love to see more! Your build quality is very nice and I'd really like to build similar bumpers for my xj. It would be great to see a video of you 1 ton swap on your 2 door! Looks very clean and low! Both of which I would like to accomplish on mine one day. Also have you done frame stiffners? I believe I first found your video off of a build thread you had going, but I cant remember what site it was or what you build name was! I think your videos are great and encourage you to do more. :)
The build name is either The LBP Cherokee or "The Little Blue Pill", yeah, the original name of this is a Viagra reference because it was that colour of blue. It's posted various places, I think the thread that's still the most readable/has pictures is on CherokeeForum. I wasn't doing videos when I did the 1 ton swap, but my recent Comanche purchase will likely be getting new axles (no promise on 1 tons), so that should get a video when the time comes. I've done my own frame stiffeners in the past, but the current pre-cut ones you can buy look like they make it way easier.
2drx4 awesome! Thanks for the response and I thought it was the blue pill build. I've just been looking for stiffners, is there a specific company you would recommend? And would a mix of 3/16 and 10 gauge be good? I would prefer 3/16 all around as I would like to over build it. As of now my jeep is my dd so it might be awhile before I can build it like I want, but do want to start part collecting.
I don't really know which stiffeners are better than others, they all seem fairly comparable. As long as you get them from somewhere that laser cuts them rather than plasma, then the quality should be spectacular. Thickness wise, I've always felt 3/16" is bordering on overkill for the most part, 10ga or 1/8" is fine for most places. You'll want more thickness around where suspension/brackets attach, but otherwise it shouldn't be needed. Ultimately I think the best route is to run thinner stiffeners and go with a full belly skid as it will really increase the rigidity in the middle of the vehicle. A cage is also a great option if you can go that far.
They're about 12" long. You could go longer, the only thing is you would need to trim the one side to clear the hole through the frame rail for the gas tank fill/vent hoses.
@@randyanderson1983 Both are 94 vintage allegedly. Ball joint D60, it has 35 spline chromo inner/outer shafts, Yukon hardcore hubs, and a Spartan locker. The rear 14 bolt has a disk brake conversion and a Yukon Grizzly locker, plus I shaved it significantly.
That’s probably the nicest number made for a Cherokee! Nice work man
Another beautiful work of art. Nice shop as well. Will u adopt me? Cheers , buddy
Nice work mate💪🏻
Thanks for watching!
2drx4 Welding are yours THING i see Thumbs up👍🏼👍🏼
Great job on that rear bumper!
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
Again a perfect and professional work. Clean cuts like a chef. Neat welds like a pro...Love it
By about 4:50 I had become bored and began thinking, first about the metal shavings dulling your bit without the use of oil, then about Mafia torture using the drill into someone's hand - and how much money it would take for me to willingly let them drill into my hand. 1 million? 5 million? And was listening to your video considered torture? Answer: No, it wasn't. Not when you used such terms as your teal duo. Makati forever.
The bumper is stronger than the unibody Cherokee
Step One: Be Talented
Like that vice ! Did you make it or buy it ? If bought where ? If made please make a video of that very cool looks like it goes in a 2 inch reciever hitch
It's a Wilton hitch vice. It's not a great vice, but works very well on my welding cart. There's a longer than normal pin holding it into the receiver, so I can actually hang the vice off the side of the receiver when storing it. Then it's not in the way. I bought it from Princess Auto (like Harbor Freight) but I'm guessing you could find them from any retailer that carries Wilton products.
Nicely done. The material you used is/was actually HREWS (hot rolled electrically welded steel) not HSS (high speed steel). Other than that, job well done.
This was explained in a later video because apparently there is a lot of ignorance on the subject. HSS is "Hollow Structural Sections," it's a generic term for tube materials, but colloquially we refer to round HSS as "tube" or "pipe" and square or rectangular as HSS, as it disambiguates the three types of hollow steels. Otherwise 2" tube could mean 2" square, or 2" round. Typically I purchase ASTM A500 [dimensional label] HSS, and is marked as such. If you look at most of the square/rectangular tubing you will see it is marked as HSS, although it may not specifically be ASTM A500. Pipe and round tubing will not typically bear the HSS marking, at least in my experience, although they technically fall under this label. The use of the term HSS for "High Speed Steel" is obviously only something that would be applied if working with tool steel, which would be ASTM A600, AISI M42, something similar.
If you would like to see this term used by industry, as you may still doubt me, I will refer you to the Atlas Tube website. www.atlastube.com/products/astm-a500/
2drx4 Ignorance? Ignorance you say? Perhaps in the world of academia or architecture it may be hollow structural steel but in the blue collar, I make a living welding and machining, been doing this for 40 years world, HSS is high speed steel. If I called my primary material supplier, Industrial Metal Service, and asked for a 20 foot stick of 2x4 HSS, they would think I lost my mind. If you doubt the validity of the most common use of the acronym HSS, simply Google "What is HSS" and see what comes up first.
I can assure you that any metal supplier I walk into in this part of the world will know exactly what I mean when I say HSS in that context. Like I said, it's printed right on the steel...
Also, googling "What is HSS" produces this Wikipedia article as the first result. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hollow_structural_section
Although I will admit that Google results are not clean, they are all based on what you have done on the internet. Using an unbiased search (DuckDuckGo) will produce a mixed results, with a fairly even split between it meaning High Speed Steel, Hollow Structural Section, and various things that decidedly have nothing to do with steel. I will point out that I used the word colloquially in my first response to you, which implies that I am aware that this nomenclature may not be standard in all regions.
Anyways, thanks for watching.
Awesome job!
Too simple,needs wrap around on ends,
Good video and good design. Please consider speeding up the non-speaking parts by 4x or 8x.
As a welder for 20+ yrs, I would make sure you cover up when welding, arms included. I have seen more than a few ppl develop cancer from exposure like that. Doesnt take much.
I had massive amounts of sunscreen on for that, but you are correct and I've worn my skins in the later movies as a response to people commenting on it. I try to set a reasonable example for safety. Thanks for watching!
Roy from down under, your work is all spot on , love what you do!
PERFECT thank you.
For being a cheap rear bumper the amount of work that went into building it definitely brought alot of respect and it doesn't look bad at all considering the amount of work aswell as not following the body lines as good as some bumpers. It looks awesome
Hello would you consider building and selling one rear bumper same like you’re Best regards Janni
ГИГАНТ С ЗОЛОТЫМИ РУКАМИ!!!
Best looking DIY bumper I’ve seen. Master skills
My friend wants me to use my everlast welder to make him a custom bumper. I'm not sure I'm quite ready for the task now although I really enjoyed watching you make yours.
You wanna know when you are ready? 5 seconds after you say so brother just get out there and start doing something
Best bumper build video on TH-cam! Nice step by step video with no extra talking. Nice work
Was that a Harbor Freight step bit you used?
The gold "titanium" ones are Canadian Tire, so they're on par with Harbor Freight. Basically buy them cheap and use them a couple times, then toss them. The black HSS ones are Lenox or Milwaukee and they're much better quality but 20 times the price.
Excelente trabajo amigoe gustó mucho pasó a paso cómo lo hiciste y ante todo la seguridad en el esmeril nunca le quitaste la protección para los cortes
Great tutorial
Nice build and great documentation. ..why not bevel weld (full pen) those 2 wrap around ends (the pieces you can use the hilift from) then grind them flush with rest of bumper?
Awesome work mate. I am taking your design as the basis for my d2 bumper. Best.
Not a bad video but you gotta work on the voice over part a little more
I think I've done a little better in the newer videos. That was my first attempt at doing that. It wasn't until the last video (the J truck one) that I finally got a proper microphone to work, I had some hardware/software incompatibility issues.
You build ur stuff with love lol I love ur videos!
Thanks!
Nice work. Been wanting to make one . Can you provide measurements for all the peices?
Great job, thanks for the video.
nice arc burns on the upper arms?
Kept it simple. Great build
I like how you opened up the end of the unibody frame to make a more substantial mount for your bumper. your design is good and is sturdy -- but in my opinion, recreation of the rear bumper mounting plates is a bit of a waste of effort, materials and time.
- after the hole/rectangular opening was made and the nut strips removed you could have simply inserted a rectangular stick (one per side) of tubing with flat bar/strips of plate shims as needed.
(in order to accomplish inserting a tube of rectangular tubing into the "frame rails" the rear shackle bolts would have to be backed out enough to give the tubing room to slide in & either drill a hole into the tube to correspond with the shackle bolt or simply shorten the shackle bolts)
and then drill bolt holes all the way through from the underside of the frame (existing holes of the hitch mount) through the tubing upward into the cargo area, a strip of plate on top (inside the cargo area) and on the bottom of the frame rail and two (or however many bolts you desire per side) long bolts all the way through from the top to the bottom & done.
end result would be 2 sticks of 2x4 tubing extended out the rear "frame rails" to build your new bumper off of.
(sorry this description may be sort of vague or hard to understand, but it is the way I built my xj bumper system yrs ago & thought it may help someone looking at this video)
How about some rock sliders soon? Would be interested to see what you come up with.
Unfortunately I did them before I started making videos. The rockers are replaced with 6x2x.188 HSS. I may wind up doing the same on my Comanche that I'm working on right now though, in which case I will show it.
@@2drx4 I hear you, I've just made a rear bumper for my rubi and did not film it but generally only publish wheeling videos on my channel. Maybe that will change to show the work we put into our rigs in the future.
I really look forward to watching the Comanche build, we only have a few of them her in Australia.
Powerplasma cutter would have made short work of cutting those holes out. Great project dude.
I have a fully built XJ on 60’s double triangulated rear suspension and a custom 3 link front and Fox racing 20” nitrogen shocks with 38” Nitto Mud Grapplers, bead locks and full PSC hydro steering and I’m getting ready to build my bumpers and I will be “stealing” your ideas a little! Everything on my XJ was built by me in my shop and the satisfaction of people complimenting my work is awesome and she’ll do some crazy shit in the trails and I love it... keep up the quality work brother, I don’t see many people go to the lengths that we do and it shows in the final product!
Thanks! Steal the ideas all you want, I know I probably just stole them from somewhere else to begin with!
The welding noise messes with my earbuds. Also, I was hoping the drill press would grab that bracket and fling it around.
I have a surprising success rate at not having the drill press grab things...
Can you send a materials list? I would like to build this
Your craftsmanship is superb! If you ever sell a vehicle I want first dibs!
Какое название имеет ваш кипромат?
Flawless and precise 👌🏾
Thanks for the kind words!
Man that Chuck Norris look!
What lift and tires you got on there?
It's about 2.5" of lift and 37x13.5R17 Toyo M/Ts in this video. Massive rework was done to the inner fenders. Ultimately I lifted it a bit more as the front suspension and steering wasn't as workable at that height as I would have liked.
прекрасная работа! привет с Байкала!
Looks great
Thanks!
Nice proyect Good job 👍
He talks like Mr.Rogers
You are doing great job
一1
Hey 2drx4! I really enjoy your videos! I'd love to see more! Your build quality is very nice and I'd really like to build similar bumpers for my xj. It would be great to see a video of you 1 ton swap on your 2 door! Looks very clean and low! Both of which I would like to accomplish on mine one day. Also have you done frame stiffners? I believe I first found your video off of a build thread you had going, but I cant remember what site it was or what you build name was! I think your videos are great and encourage you to do more. :)
The build name is either The LBP Cherokee or "The Little Blue Pill", yeah, the original name of this is a Viagra reference because it was that colour of blue. It's posted various places, I think the thread that's still the most readable/has pictures is on CherokeeForum. I wasn't doing videos when I did the 1 ton swap, but my recent Comanche purchase will likely be getting new axles (no promise on 1 tons), so that should get a video when the time comes. I've done my own frame stiffeners in the past, but the current pre-cut ones you can buy look like they make it way easier.
2drx4 awesome! Thanks for the response and I thought it was the blue pill build. I've just been looking for stiffners, is there a specific company you would recommend? And would a mix of 3/16 and 10 gauge be good? I would prefer 3/16 all around as I would like to over build it. As of now my jeep is my dd so it might be awhile before I can build it like I want, but do want to start part collecting.
I don't really know which stiffeners are better than others, they all seem fairly comparable. As long as you get them from somewhere that laser cuts them rather than plasma, then the quality should be spectacular. Thickness wise, I've always felt 3/16" is bordering on overkill for the most part, 10ga or 1/8" is fine for most places. You'll want more thickness around where suspension/brackets attach, but otherwise it shouldn't be needed. Ultimately I think the best route is to run thinner stiffeners and go with a full belly skid as it will really increase the rigidity in the middle of the vehicle. A cage is also a great option if you can go that far.
Can u make me one
you are very neat
How long was the angle iron
They're about 12" long. You could go longer, the only thing is you would need to trim the one side to clear the hole through the frame rail for the gas tank fill/vent hoses.
Can you put on the description or give me a list of the measurement.
What's the size of the angle box
The angle iron used is 2x2x.250, if that's what you're asking? Or do you want the length of the pieces?
Want to make one for my jeep
What was the length of the 4x2
It's 53" long. Let me know if you want anything else measured!
4:50 shake hands with danger...
Put a clamp on that and save yourself a finger
Unless your using flux core you need stop dragging the mig
Bibs? Shouldn't those be full coveralls?
I hate coveralls.
what axles are you running under your xj?
Ford D60 front and a Chevy 14 Bolt rear.
@@2drx4 from what years? they seems newer style?
@@randyanderson1983 Both are 94 vintage allegedly. Ball joint D60, it has 35 spline chromo inner/outer shafts, Yukon hardcore hubs, and a Spartan locker. The rear 14 bolt has a disk brake conversion and a Yukon Grizzly locker, plus I shaved it significantly.
okay thank you I have 2002 super duty 60 up front and 10.5 sterling on mine
Yeah, the Superduty axles are far superior, but I didn't feel I needed the beef since I'm only running 37s and don't intend to go bigger.