Great vid! Straight to the point and hits all the important stuff. For anyone reading this also applies to the 4wd version of the same truck, just doesn't include removing the cv axle, which is pretty simple in itself. Zap off the 6 15mm bolts holding the cv axle to the diff, pull that side off and let it fall in the open space of the control arm after you remove the stabilizer link, then pull the 36mm axle nut and it should slide right out. A punch and hammer can help if it isn't cooperating. Never hammer on anything threaded though, that's why the punch is handy. Or if no punch is handy, thread the axle nut back on just a bit and hammer on it lightly... punch is preferable.
I leave grease on the zerk on purpose it keeps the b.b. on it from rusting and seizing closed I can wipe the old grease off before I grease it next time but I can’t get the rust out or un seize it
Great vid! Straight to the point and hits all the important stuff.
For anyone reading this also applies to the 4wd version of the same truck, just doesn't include removing the cv axle, which is pretty simple in itself. Zap off the 6 15mm bolts holding the cv axle to the diff, pull that side off and let it fall in the open space of the control arm after you remove the stabilizer link, then pull the 36mm axle nut and it should slide right out. A punch and hammer can help if it isn't cooperating. Never hammer on anything threaded though, that's why the punch is handy. Or if no punch is handy, thread the axle nut back on just a bit and hammer on it lightly... punch is preferable.
Great vid.
One shot ball joint separation?
Is this the same for a Honda?
I leave grease on the zerk on purpose it keeps the b.b. on it from rusting and seizing closed I can wipe the old grease off before I grease it next time but I can’t get the rust out or un seize it