Lol most people cheat when making these vids. They loosen everything first then, put it back together then pretend they're tackling the job for the furst time. Thanks for your honesty!!!
She's for sure going to be happier! Maybe not having all the oil leak out will help with my shifting bahaha. Can't wait to have functional forks. I'll be using one of your vids where you replace the fork oil as a partial guide!
A 3/8" Impact Screwdriver is the secret to not stripping the philips head of those screws. Strike with hammer, off in seconds. Been there, done that...
16:19 i started mine in -10 c i rode it home ....was -14c carb iced up and throttle stuck open (scary!) but once i got home was ok .......it WILL start.............full choke (i had to 'peg' mine open as it wouldnt stay pulled out) turn the idle screw open a bit to raise the idle ....2 or 3 kicks at TDC .....brrrrmmm she running......used mine to commute UK summer thru winter
Good work Kosmo !! Are you going to fit clocks on ya bike and the proper headlamp brackets and the rear light bracket. You will get them in the USA as I get a lot of my parts there. I had the Dt 175 when I was 17 great bike. I have another Dt 175 and a Dt 250. Keep the videos coming !! Cheers Garry
Hi Garry! Thank you for the comment! I don't know how much more money I want to spend on this bike at the moment, but I DO have a stock DT100 gauge cluster that would look appropriate on the 175. Definitely want some proper headlight brackets but would most likely keep them black still. Unfortunately I got the bike without many of the stock components so it'll be a bit of a task to piece the OEM parts back together. Maybe once my other projects are done I can work on doing a resto on this :)
i had one of those DT's in the 90's top bike , torque was great for overtaking lol . i modded mine ....jacked up the rear and put honda MTX125 front forks on and its wheel for disc brakes as that front drum is poor lol.....after that i could do stoppies with its twin piston caliper !!
You can make a simple pressure tester that will test all seals, joints, gaskets, sparkplug seats in one simple test. I have instructions posted on the Facebook Hodaka Group site under David Burke. Also make sure to leave a gap between the bearing and the seal so the bearing doesn't rub on the seal.
Recently got a 1978 dt175 for $50 as it has been sitting for 15 years and is dirty as hell. Looks like it saw lots of of trail riding too. BUT it has (had) good compression, electrical works, has spark, and only 1800 miles. Upon cleaning the carb, I thought id give her a few (lot) of cranks to see if she'd start and.... well i heard a couple loud pops. Carb was pissing gas out of the overflow of the bowl as well. Shit. Figured the main jet was sticking or something, ive order a new one. Maybe the pressure from all the fuel squirting in there popped the seals and sure enough had a bunch of gas in the crank cover and all over the magneto. so... THANK YOU for making this video, this is going to be a million times easier now. Just hope I don't pop the new one as well. What are the stock carb settings for this bike?
float valve , mine did that then it old fuel went inside crank area and washed all the bearings....smoked like fuck on the band ....then killed the crank bearings BE CAREFUL . DRAIN THAT FUEL OUT.......not easy as theres no drain , one need to remove engine really and tip it upside down .....i even thought of trying to drill a drain but my mate said dont the casing is too thin below crank area or in hindsight even thought of putting a womens Tampon down the webs of the crank when barrel removed to try 'soak' it up ROFL !!
Hey Kos, I have the same IT250 you have in this video. With the stock jetting, 32:1 ratio with castor oil, no visible light shining through reeds, float height is right, newer top end, cleaned pipe and re-packed silencer, clean unifilter in the air box with minimal oil, not losing any oil from crank case, she runs rich as hell. Also, when pulling the carb, (multiple times in the last 2 weeks) I keep finding quite a bit of oil in the boot from carb to air box (weak reeds)? LEFT? crank seal? Cant find a spec on good compression numbers for that engine. Thanks to anyone who can help.
Hi Kosmo I understand what you mean about the cost you want to spend. In the UK they worth a lot of money and going up in price. I have 12 bikes so I no what you mean. I like your Yamaha IT Cheers Garry
Yep, not getting cheaper here in Canada either. Also just getting quite hard to find. 12 bikes! Nice! My lady won't let me have more than 5 but that's 5 more than some people so can't complain! I love the IT as well...I cannot wait to give it attention.
Keep the good work coming !! I enjoy your videos! I was married for 25 years but on my own now But I brought my two daughter up! That's way I have twelve bikes lol How long have you had the snow for? Cheers Garry
Since you are a expert can you help me. You 1980 Yamaha dt 175..there is a open hole near cylinder head on top right. Looks like it should have a plug in it. Can you tell mlm me what purpose it serves. I could send you a picture.
Lol most people cheat when making these vids. They loosen everything first then, put it back together then pretend they're tackling the job for the furst time. Thanks for your honesty!!!
I started watching this video for my 1986 IT 200 and when you flipped from the bike to the bench I saw an IT in the background.
That DT is so happy and smiling now lol. Ya, fork rebuilds are a pretty easy going job. Dig it!
She's for sure going to be happier! Maybe not having all the oil leak out will help with my shifting bahaha.
Can't wait to have functional forks. I'll be using one of your vids where you replace the fork oil as a partial guide!
What’s up dude! And yes weather is definitely getting better soon!
A 3/8" Impact Screwdriver is the secret to not stripping the philips head of those screws. Strike with hammer, off in seconds. Been there, done that...
Holy crap! I should check my screws lol that's nuts
heck yeah! give it a good look over
16:19 i started mine in -10 c i rode it home ....was -14c carb iced up and throttle stuck open (scary!) but once i got home was ok .......it WILL start.............full choke (i had to 'peg' mine open as it wouldnt stay pulled out) turn the idle screw open a bit to raise the idle ....2 or 3 kicks at TDC .....brrrrmmm she running......used mine to commute UK summer thru winter
Good work Kosmo !!
Are you going to fit clocks on ya bike and the proper headlamp brackets and the rear light bracket.
You will get them in the USA as I get a lot of my parts there.
I had the Dt 175 when I was 17 great bike.
I have another Dt 175 and a Dt 250.
Keep the videos coming !!
Cheers Garry
Hi Garry! Thank you for the comment! I don't know how much more money I want to spend on this bike at the moment, but I DO have a stock DT100 gauge cluster that would look appropriate on the 175. Definitely want some proper headlight brackets but would most likely keep them black still. Unfortunately I got the bike without many of the stock components so it'll be a bit of a task to piece the OEM parts back together. Maybe once my other projects are done I can work on doing a resto on this :)
i had one of those DT's in the 90's top bike , torque was great for overtaking lol .
i modded mine ....jacked up the rear and put honda MTX125 front forks on and its wheel for disc brakes as that front drum is poor lol.....after that i could do stoppies with its twin piston caliper !!
You can make a simple pressure tester that will test all seals, joints, gaskets, sparkplug seats in one simple test. I have instructions posted on the Facebook Hodaka Group site under David Burke. Also make sure to leave a gap between the bearing and the seal so the bearing doesn't rub on the seal.
That’s what she said!! Good Monday morning laugh....thank you!!!
how do you tell what side needs the seal replaced?
Recently got a 1978 dt175 for $50 as it has been sitting for 15 years and is dirty as hell. Looks like it saw lots of of trail riding too. BUT it has (had) good compression, electrical works, has spark, and only 1800 miles. Upon cleaning the carb, I thought id give her a few (lot) of cranks to see if she'd start and.... well i heard a couple loud pops. Carb was pissing gas out of the overflow of the bowl as well. Shit.
Figured the main jet was sticking or something, ive order a new one. Maybe the pressure from all the fuel squirting in there popped the seals and sure enough had a bunch of gas in the crank cover and all over the magneto. so... THANK YOU for making this video, this is going to be a million times easier now. Just hope I don't pop the new one as well. What are the stock carb settings for this bike?
float valve , mine did that then it old fuel went inside crank area and washed all the bearings....smoked like fuck on the band ....then killed the crank bearings BE CAREFUL . DRAIN THAT FUEL OUT.......not easy as theres no drain , one need to remove engine really and tip it upside down .....i even thought of trying to drill a drain but my mate said dont the casing is too thin below crank area or in hindsight even thought of putting a womens Tampon down the webs of the crank when barrel removed to try 'soak' it up ROFL !!
Hey Kos, I have the same IT250 you have in this video. With the stock jetting, 32:1 ratio with castor oil, no visible light shining through reeds, float height is right, newer top end, cleaned pipe and re-packed silencer, clean unifilter in the air box with minimal oil, not losing any oil from crank case, she runs rich as hell. Also, when pulling the carb, (multiple times in the last 2 weeks) I keep finding quite a bit of oil in the boot from carb to air box (weak reeds)? LEFT? crank seal?
Cant find a spec on good compression numbers for that engine. Thanks to anyone who can help.
Scott Rood I wood say rings and trannie seal did u find the problem?
great content man, subbed
Thanks man!
What’s the part number for that seal ?
Hi Kosmo
I understand what you mean about the cost you want to spend.
In the UK they worth a lot of money and going up in price.
I have 12 bikes so I no what you mean.
I like your Yamaha IT
Cheers Garry
Yep, not getting cheaper here in Canada either. Also just getting quite hard to find.
12 bikes! Nice! My lady won't let me have more than 5 but that's 5 more than some people so can't complain!
I love the IT as well...I cannot wait to give it attention.
Keep the good work coming !!
I enjoy your videos!
I was married for 25 years but on my own now
But I brought my two daughter up!
That's way I have twelve bikes lol
How long have you had the snow for?
Cheers Garry
Since you are a expert can you help me.
You
1980 Yamaha dt 175..there is a open hole near cylinder head on top right. Looks like it should have a plug in it. Can you tell mlm me what purpose it serves. I could send you a picture.
Hi Darrell! I'd be happy to take a look at that pic. Just shoot me an email at kosmotoyt@gmail.com
Can these cause loss of power or speed
most definitely, they will suck in air or transmission oil depending on which side it is, and that will make the engine run very poorly.
I feel like there is a lot of steps involved with the pulling of the flywheel
Could this be the cause of my bike revving at 4000-7000rpm and sticking there?
Yup! Left side seal sucks in air
Jacob Lobb this happened to me, broken collarbone and 8 ribs, I'm going to do both seals
What will cause we didn't change the oil seal tell bro
U said that it would set off the timing a 2stoke dont have timing
I'm not talking about cam timing...every engine has ignition timing.
They do but ktm 300 dont
Ive got a 77
Yeah I was gonna race my neighbors old bikes and the only one that runs was spewing gas out of the dry side so yeah
Nice IT
Gorilla glue......cringe🤣
i bashed my 8mm wide seal in too far by about 4 mm and couldnt get it back out .that was 3 yr ago still runs like new
lol mint, sometimes you get lucky