Thanks to you and Eduardo for the tip! My trim guy (me) and my paint guy (also me) are always arguing about who caused a poor finish so this might help us out..
Eduardo will tell you that a credit card, plus3 mud with a hand held lamp when it's dark in the house will allow you to see the smallest dings on trim and walls. night lighting is also when you really see how your day time chip repair wasn't enough. Also works well going after nail pops. My painter buddy used to think I was nuts until he called one night on a trim job and couldn't believe how many chips and dings he had missed that showed up in the first enamel coat.
When I use to paint with a high end home builder, we would spend countless hours perfecting paint finishes. Lots of sanding, caulking and filling nail holes and imperfections. They were as good as the hood of a German sports car. But, we never wet sanded between finish coats. I’ll try it on my next project. Thanks
The Benjamin Moore Advance paint is simply the best. I've painted doors and trims with this using a brush and it levels out so smoothly and makes a durable finish. I recommend it.
Benjamin Moore's Advance has been around for a long time and takes about 16 hours between coats. I gave up on it years ago when I switched to Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua pigmented lacquer which is designed specifically for cabinetry and trim. The Kem Aqua Surfacer is the primer coat and both products dry in 20 minutes for recoats and dry to a very smooth finish. It's basically a water based lacquer with the same finish as the traditional solvent based lacquer. In Canada the Kem Aqua is also priced better than BM.
@@jeromegarcia5396Behr paint is junk. Can't believe you put them in the same sentence BM or Sherwin Williams. You're nothing but a home Depot paint hack painter.
I let advance dry for at least a day. It has a 16 hour recoat time. It is a fantastic paint. When I paint, I roll it with a foam roller and let it sit flat and gravity allows it to flatten almost perfectly. Never any roller or brush strokes. Love that paint.
I like Elmers squeeze tube wood filler for pin holes or a product in Canada called dynapatch pro. Drydex is too soft. I really enjoyed that wet sanding technique I'm going to have to give that a try! I'm just getting into spraying trim.
As a car painter, the best finish is always obtained by wet sanding prior to the final coat. Make sure not to sand with paper if it gets loaded..throw it away if it’s loaded….plenty of water. Let those first coats dry good before that final sand! Nice work!!!
It's a great thing when skilled trades men share what works for them. It helps to keep the trade alive and motivates people to try it. The worst thing you can hear is it's a trade secret.
Amazing suggestion to wet sand. I used to be a SW Emerald Urethane fan, I tried the Advance Satin in a bedroom I remodeled, will never go back to SW, amazing finish. BM Advance brushes on amazing and if you have the tools to spray it you get a a better than factory finish!
@@JLLG2 Tomorrow, I am using this for some floor transitions. I'm spraying with a 5 stage HVLP, no thinning required. 1.5 tip. I find it directly comparable to advance, that I've shot for ages.
Benjamin Moore Advance is the bomb! It gives a sublime finish. Hard, not sticky, easy to clean and durable, self-leveling, non-yellowing. I wouldn't use anything else to paint my wood trim.
Wet sanding is a technique clear finish/varnish woodworkers use. We did it with varnish in school shop class back in the day. I've seen it used for paint in the past too. Finish looks great.
Very similar to my method except I don’t spray and prefer the look of brushed finish. First coat Cover Stain primer, putty/fill with MH, spot sand, second coat Cover Stain, full sand, caulk, first coat Advance, wet sand and clean well with damp cloth, second coat Advance. Looks really pretty 👍
I’m old school and use Porter (now PPG) oil based Glyptex applied with a good brush. It’s semigloss but dies to a very nice satin finish. After about 30 days virtually all brush marks are gone. Looks hand rubbed. This paint is very durable and lasts 30 years or better. Good stuff.
I remember that episode. I tagged it so I will be able to refer back to it when I am ready to finish my house down in Comanche near the lake when I retire in a couple of years. I will be using black walnut for my doors and some furniture from fully mature trees from our family farm up in Oklahoma.
My only issue with BM advance is that I had my basement trim all turn yellow. Apparently in whites if there’s no UV light hitting it it can yellow after a while.
Great work, trim is looking minty fresh! I only use BMA for my trim/ millwork now. Its got a great finish, and is low pressure for armatures like myself. Very forgiving, its fantastic for painted cabinets/vanities as well. Satin is my go to as well, I also cant stress how important a quick wet sand with 800+ to really make it shine, especially if you are using a diy gun to apply it.
Love your videos bc finally I find and align with someone who is as conscientious and obstinate to detail. I’m in flooring and have a painting business and when it comes to my home I am meticulous and love the detail. Trim work is one of my fav things. Thanks for the videos and time you invest to getting things done right I’d love to get some info from you on a few things I want to do at home Thanks man 🙌🏻
I love BM Advance. Been using it on all of my trim projects now. I’ve found it to be extremely forgiving. Even using a brush or a roller it levels out super well. Good tip on the wet sanding though. Never thought about that. My paint guy said a full 24 hours to cure allegedly.
Love that finish, especially Eduardo’s tricks to getting a fine finish. I used that BM Advance when my son added about 1100 sf to his house. All the base boards and fancy door trim work and you are right , made me look like I knew what I was doing when I painted it. Excellent paint! Great video 👍
Looks great! I really want to see how you make the nail holes and seams disappear. Would you please video the entire prep before painting? The finish you just put on the door frames was phenomenal!
I 2nd the request for a start to finish tutorial on finishing... sealing nail holes..etc Love tbis channel..such respect for details!! Only a few YT channels go to this detail. Also drives me crazy about not wearing a wearing a respirator..especially the episode when finishing those doors in the garage.
I sprayed some built-ins for a designer client in a super high-end building in DC and they said it looked like a museum. That Advance satin is awesome. I dry sanded with 400 though, will try the wet sand next time, maybe I'll use automotive wet or dry paper. "Gelled out" is called leveling which is where Advance shines.
I would like a zoom in where the casing hits the floor. The ornate trim really makes this spot hard on painters and I've taken to leaving a shadow gap about the thickness of a transparency allowing one to actually slide a transparency under trim for a paint break while painting then pull out, same for doors to allow floor recoat. It's nice, then the kids show up..........
Amazing color very nice and what a finish , when i use to do cabinet finishing we would use the bondo too less likely to see small imperfections , and i used a black glaze on some cabinet finishes i always liked doing the glazing and distressed style cabinets theres alot you can do have fun with it , nice work its comming along
BM Advance is great, but it will run pretty easily if you have any build up on it in corners (like 6 panel doors, for example). You need to err on the side of caution putting on less than a normal paint, and do multiple coats as needed. The 16 hour dry time between coats is a drawback, but if you are patient (and if the customer is as well), the end results are amazing!
Looking great as always! Using a high build primer like Envirothane 170 tinted to bath salts will help fill in the last of your texture and holes as well as provide some color to let the imperfections show. Then you can sand them out with 320 before you begin topcoat.
Always wait for the paint to dry properly before repainting. I have F up my work being impatient. And ended up sanding the architrave again which caused dust in your drying paint work. Lesson learnt
Will have to try the wet sanding when I redo our trim. We had our house "professionally" painted when we moved in. The paint is peeling off of the doorway casings and we found that the undercoating was oil-based. The painter told us that it doesn't matter and now we're paying the price for not having questioned him more. Lesson learned~!
Ya advance is the best trim paint, pretty forgiving once you get used to it, sits incredibly flat and you can get great results with a brush or roller as well if you don’t want to go for spray finish. It’s also so durable
Really good vid. I'm a pro painter and I'd say you're next level with your prep work and top coating. Also great background music ! your vids are actually quite soothing to watch and enlightening. much appreciated
I used to spray ML Campbell magnalac but Worth quit carrying it so now I'm spraying the Chemcraft Variset precat lacquer. The smell goes away in a couple of hours.
Richard, I fid it best to use a steel wool for paint and lacquers. A little of mineral spirits to smooth it out more. If it looks smooth and the surface feels smooth, then you got it.
I recently just had to do a specialty "piano" finish. Started with advance, but the 16hr dry time is crazy. ML Campbell , prime, 2 coats of color, then wet sand with 3000. Coat with high gloss.
@@sethhamilton5824 First, I went through about 5 different trials. I used Arroyo 1k for the base. Then Arroyo 1k High Gloss. That looked pretty amazing, but I hit it with a gentle 3k wet sand, and Mira polish with a RA polisher. I could damn near shave in it.
i"m not sure which exact orifice size he used but that is a fine finish low pressure tip {fflp} i use a 308 tip for trim and cabinets. i also like to use a 310 fflp tip on cabinets if i cant find a 308 but you gotta move a little faster.
I've been using sprung in-between coats for years never thought anyone else was doing it as well that's cool. My first rub I do dry spunge then wet. I got the idea from a body shop they use wet and dry so I thought I wonder if I could use a wet spunge.
I do the same but for sand paper, I use the sponged, velcro pads that I usually use for final sand on my drywall, (I always have worn down used ones). It's Trim-Tex Black Widow sand paper, in my opinion, it leaves the smoothest finish for any 220 grit I have ever used, and I've used them all.
Haven’t ventured into the world of 2k finish yet? I’ve never used BMA. But I’ve used SW emerald urethane a lot. And their new gallery series. Both a great to me.
I don't use a lot of BM products these days, but I do like Advanced as well as their Stix primer. Throw the respirator on. Titanium dioxide isn't good for you long-term.
We shoot all our cabinet projects with Advanced and have been for years. Advanced is as good as it gets. We normally get a glass finish with 3 to 4 even coats. You need to add some metallic finish in on a built-in if you get the opportunity too. Metallic makes a finish look amazing.
We always seal raw MDF with an oil primer and, if possible, a slow, dry oil. Otherwise, you will have an issue. We have had latex primer, not seal the MDF, and in some cases, swell the MDF.
I appreciate your skill (via Eduardo) and your knowledge (via Eduardo). 😂 Knowing who to call when you want to up your game is most valuable. Now you’re helping at least 9,000 more who are trying to up their game as well!
I have been doing this since i saw your episode when you wanted to know what Eduardo did. i use it all the time now. and it prevents having to vacuum all the dust. also use this to sand out runs. all this is from your channel. see you make a difference.
Beautiful! I can’t tell if it’s the new camera, the lighting or John’s absence behind the lens but the video quality hasn’t been as clear and crisp in the last couple of videos.
Any advice on uneven look on orange peel texture? I see weird shadowing at angles. It’s in the stairwell so the walls are large and tall. Used BM regency.
Water based alkyd enamel is the way to go as you have discovered. All the advantages of oil based enamel without the disadvantages and so much better than acrylic. It seems it is quite popular in the States with a lot of different brands but not used much here in Australia. That's pretty normal we are normally quite a few years behind the US so I suspect it will become the norm here before too long.
@@MadLadsAnonymousLiving in Australia I'm obviously not conversant with all the products available in the States but the name 'Advance' does 'ring a bell'. Here in Australia there are only two brands that offer the product but no doubt there will be many more soon. Having used it, it is certainly my preferred option.
@@kelstra1997 Cheers. I watched some more reviews and that is indeed what BM Advance is. Curious how it compares to Gallery plus crosslinker (Sayerlack)
After your wet sand, take a flashlight and check for any shrinkage and hit it with glazing putty. Sand it properly and give it your final coat Try Benjamin Moore Command it dries extremely fast and sand beautifully
The glaze smells like acetone for a good few hours. The drydex isn’t as good, but a rattle can of BIN where you used makes it coat as if it wasn’t there. It stinks like alcohol, but for less time.
Yes I went through about 4 gallons of gallery for a client. Doors and trim. I like it a lot but you can't roll or brush it. Very durable and dries fast.
Hey man, you inspired me and now I’m doing what I love which is finish carpentry! My only trouble is knowing how to charge for a detail job like that ? Carpentry and paint. Would you be kind to share some ideas? Thank you keep up the good work.
I have been a painting contractor for 40 years and Sherwin Williams Emerald urethane trim enamel is the best trim and cabinet paint that I have ever sprayed. Hands down the best. The cost of a gallon is where it hurts. Just saying.
Advance is far better than Emerald, it lays flatter and the sheens are spot on. Emerald semigloss is the only sheen that ever comes close to the advertised sheens.
I was wondering what color the mantel was going to be. I almost thought it might be same color as the window in the laundry room,it would definitely be a super bold accent color. But yeah most definitely hope to see you spray that mantel once complete!
Beautiful work! So to clarify for final finish you will spray one layer, then wet sand, then spray second and final coat of final finish? No more wet sanding/sanding after second final finish coat? Thx
Ok, we just used BM Aura for exterior stucco and wooden beams. Loved it, so smooth. Ian BM Advance even better, or is it just better for interior work?
Hey great video first off! I have a question: I love the profile of the casings and would love to make for my house - what is the molding type you used between the two boards? I've looked all over and can't seem to find that profile. Also, I have used BM Advance for awhile and have really come to enjoy it after getting past the learning curve. Love your channel and content, keep it up. Simple, instructional videos without a bunch of distraction and nuisance cutaways a lot of other youtubers have been doing lately. Keep it up!
Thanks to you and Eduardo for the tip! My trim guy (me) and my paint guy (also me) are always arguing about who caused a poor finish so this might help us out..
Small world, I use the same trim and paint guys.
@@hyperion112 must be really busy, I use the same guys
Who wins the argument?
😂😂
😂
Eduardo will tell you that a credit card, plus3 mud with a hand held lamp when it's dark in the house will allow you to see the smallest dings on trim and walls. night lighting is also when you really see how your day time chip repair wasn't enough. Also works well going after nail pops. My painter buddy used to think I was nuts until he called one night on a trim job and couldn't believe how many chips and dings he had missed that showed up in the first enamel coat.
When I use to paint with a high end home builder, we would spend countless hours perfecting paint finishes. Lots of sanding, caulking and filling nail holes and imperfections. They were as good as the hood of a German sports car. But, we never wet sanded between finish coats. I’ll try it on my next project. Thanks
The Benjamin Moore Advance paint is simply the best. I've painted doors and trims with this using a brush and it levels out so smoothly and makes a durable finish. I recommend it.
Awesome video, thank you! The trim and the finish look bee-u-ti-ful!!🙌🏻
Benjamin Moore's Advance has been around for a long time and takes about 16 hours between coats. I gave up on it years ago when I switched to Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua pigmented lacquer which is designed specifically for cabinetry and trim. The Kem Aqua Surfacer is the primer coat and both products dry in 20 minutes for recoats and dry to a very smooth finish. It's basically a water based lacquer with the same finish as the traditional solvent based lacquer. In Canada the Kem Aqua is also priced better than BM.
@@jeromegarcia5396Behr paint is junk. Can't believe you put them in the same sentence BM or Sherwin Williams. You're nothing but a home Depot paint hack painter.
No thanks on lacquer
Gallery Series is what you want
@@joseph7105 what's wrong with lacquer?
@@infinityvideoprod chemical cleaning, spray fumes etc. I always use water base
I let advance dry for at least a day. It has a 16 hour recoat time. It is a fantastic paint. When I paint, I roll it with a foam roller and let it sit flat and gravity allows it to flatten almost perfectly. Never any roller or brush strokes. Love that paint.
I like Elmers squeeze tube wood filler for pin holes or a product in Canada called dynapatch pro. Drydex is too soft. I really enjoyed that wet sanding technique I'm going to have to give that a try! I'm just getting into spraying trim.
Use the drydex for a first coat of fill, then the glazing bondo for a final coat. The bondo doesn’t flash when you spray
Been using the gallery series from Sherwin Williams on my kitchen cabinet jobs and really like it.
As a car painter, the best finish is always obtained by wet sanding prior to the final coat. Make sure not to sand with paper if it gets loaded..throw it away if it’s loaded….plenty of water. Let those first coats dry good before that final sand! Nice work!!!
Great video. When pros paint cars, they wet sand in-between coats..
It's a great thing when skilled trades men share what works for them. It helps to keep the trade alive and motivates people to try it. The worst thing you can hear is it's a trade secret.
Amazing suggestion to wet sand. I used to be a SW Emerald Urethane fan, I tried the Advance Satin in a bedroom I remodeled, will never go back to SW, amazing finish. BM Advance brushes on amazing and if you have the tools to spray it you get a a better than factory finish!
SW equivalent would be Proclassic Hybrid
@@OOpSjmactually, the SW has a new "Gallery Series" that I'm using for cabinets,. SPrays so nice, and, recoat in 40m.
Would Gallery be good for trim? I have a Fuji Q5 (total rookie), recommendations for thinning and tip size?
@@JLLG2 Tomorrow, I am using this for some floor transitions. I'm spraying with a 5 stage HVLP, no thinning required. 1.5 tip. I find it directly comparable to advance, that I've shot for ages.
I’m a noob and Gallery was so easy to spray on cabinets using the Fuji q4
Richard, you are the best. On point and clear. Thanks again for the excellent, practical tips.
Benjamin Moore Advance is the bomb! It gives a sublime finish. Hard, not sticky, easy to clean and durable, self-leveling, non-yellowing. I wouldn't use anything else to paint my wood trim.
You can also get excellent results using a brush or roller and good technique.
Wet sanding is a technique clear finish/varnish woodworkers use. We did it with varnish in school shop class back in the day. I've seen it used for paint in the past too. Finish looks great.
Eduardo is a man of few words it seems like. Thanks to him for the advice
Very similar to my method except I don’t spray and prefer the look of brushed finish. First coat Cover Stain primer, putty/fill with MH, spot sand, second coat Cover Stain, full sand, caulk, first coat Advance, wet sand and clean well with damp cloth, second coat Advance. Looks really pretty 👍
I’m old school and use Porter (now PPG) oil based Glyptex applied with a good brush. It’s semigloss but dies to a very nice satin finish. After about 30 days virtually all brush marks are gone. Looks hand rubbed. This paint is very durable and lasts 30 years or better. Good stuff.
I’m a big fan of the Benjamin Moore INSLX Cabinet Coat in satin it’s very similar to advance also being a urethane paint but it has even less smell
Been watching since the beginning days, learned so much from, so thank you for these. Great to see how far you’ve come, truly next level!
Richard, I love your desire to do everything with excellence. Your room is going to be incredible when it’s all completed. Stay strong.
MH Ready Patch has always been my go to.
Benjamin Moore advanced is by far the best finish for trim and doors. The look and durability are fantastic
I remember that episode. I tagged it so I will be able to refer back to it when I am ready to finish my house down in Comanche near the lake when I retire in a couple of years. I will be using black walnut for my doors and some furniture from fully mature trees from our family farm up in Oklahoma.
My only issue with BM advance is that I had my basement trim all turn yellow. Apparently in whites if there’s no UV light hitting it it can yellow after a while.
I enjoy your deadpan delivery! and especially the information.
wow, that window sill in the laundry room is awesome, such a beautiful home you're remodeling. Keep up the good work!
Advance is the BEST. It’s the only interior trim finish I will use.
Great work, trim is looking minty fresh! I only use BMA for my trim/ millwork now. Its got a great finish, and is low pressure for armatures like myself. Very forgiving, its fantastic for painted cabinets/vanities as well. Satin is my go to as well, I also cant stress how important a quick wet sand with 800+ to really make it shine, especially if you are using a diy gun to apply it.
Can you quick wet sand with 800+ after the final paint coat too?🤔
you need a vevor 12 inch explosion proof fan with a 30 foot duct to vent the room. even if your spraying water based laytex.
Love your videos bc finally I find and align with someone who is as conscientious and obstinate to detail. I’m in flooring and have a painting business and when it comes to my home I am meticulous and love the detail. Trim work is one of my fav things. Thanks for the videos and time you invest to getting things done right
I’d love to get some info from you on a few things I want to do at home
Thanks man 🙌🏻
I love BM Advance. Been using it on all of my trim projects now. I’ve found it to be extremely forgiving. Even using a brush or a roller it levels out super well. Good tip on the wet sanding though. Never thought about that.
My paint guy said a full 24 hours to cure allegedly.
I just really appreciate your curiosity and your pursuit of honing your craft. I’ve improved my DIY trim carpentry and painting thanks to you.
Great job, looks amazing. Thanks for the painting tips.
Love that finish, especially Eduardo’s tricks to getting a fine finish. I used that BM Advance when my son added about 1100 sf to his house. All the base boards and fancy door trim work and you are right , made me look like I knew what I was doing when I painted it. Excellent paint! Great video 👍
Looks great! I really want to see how you make the nail holes and seams disappear. Would you please video the entire prep before painting? The finish you just put on the door frames was phenomenal!
I 2nd the request for a start to finish tutorial on finishing... sealing nail holes..etc
Love tbis channel..such respect for details!! Only a few YT channels go to this detail.
Also drives me crazy about not wearing a wearing a respirator..especially the episode when finishing those doors in the garage.
I sprayed some built-ins for a designer client in a super high-end building in DC and they said it looked like a museum. That Advance satin is awesome. I dry sanded with 400 though, will try the wet sand next time, maybe I'll use automotive wet or dry paper. "Gelled out" is called leveling which is where Advance shines.
I would like a zoom in where the casing hits the floor. The ornate trim really makes this spot hard on painters and I've taken to leaving a shadow gap about the thickness of a transparency allowing one to actually slide a transparency under trim for a paint break while painting then pull out, same for doors to allow floor recoat. It's nice, then the kids show up..........
Amazing color very nice and what a finish , when i use to do cabinet finishing we would use the bondo too less likely to see small imperfections , and i used a black glaze on some cabinet finishes i always liked doing the glazing and distressed style cabinets theres alot you can do have fun with it , nice work its comming along
BM Advance is great, but it will run pretty easily if you have any build up on it in corners (like 6 panel doors, for example). You need to err on the side of caution putting on less than a normal paint, and do multiple coats as needed. The 16 hour dry time between coats is a drawback, but if you are patient (and if the customer is as well), the end results are amazing!
Looking great as always! Using a high build primer like Envirothane 170 tinted to bath salts will help fill in the last of your texture and holes as well as provide some color to let the imperfections show. Then you can sand them out with 320 before you begin topcoat.
Wet sanding is used on automotive paint surfaces to remove orange peel for a smooth glass like finish!
Always wait for the paint to dry properly before repainting. I have F up my work being impatient. And ended up sanding the architrave again which caused dust in your drying paint work.
Lesson learnt
Dunn Edward Aristo shield water base dry as lacquer is a very nice product, and I use 000 steel wool for the final sanding finish.
Will have to try the wet sanding when I redo our trim. We had our house "professionally" painted when we moved in. The paint is peeling off of the doorway casings and we found that the undercoating was oil-based. The painter told us that it doesn't matter and now we're paying the price for not having questioned him more. Lesson learned~!
Ya advance is the best trim paint, pretty forgiving once you get used to it, sits incredibly flat and you can get great results with a brush or roller as well if you don’t want to go for spray finish. It’s also so durable
not what you know,, its who you know. Thanks for your hard work.. looking good
It is a factory Finnish. Great job. I have painted many vehicle's and your technic is spot on
Technique
Really good vid. I'm a pro painter and I'd say you're next level with your prep work and top coating.
Also great background music ! your vids are actually quite soothing to watch and enlightening.
much appreciated
I used to spray ML Campbell magnalac but Worth quit carrying it so now I'm spraying the Chemcraft Variset precat lacquer. The smell goes away in a couple of hours.
Richard, I fid it best to use a steel wool for paint and lacquers. A little of mineral spirits to smooth it out more. If it looks smooth and the surface feels smooth, then you got it.
Instead of wet sanding, put mineral spirits on 0000 steel wool? For this BMA paint?
Great tip, appreciate it.
Advance is my favorite paint for millwork and cabinets.
Does it spray well with HVLP? Any thinning required?
I recently just had to do a specialty "piano" finish. Started with advance, but the 16hr dry time is crazy. ML Campbell , prime, 2 coats of color, then wet sand with 3000. Coat with high gloss.
What did you use for finish before the gloss? I have a similar job and am using a 2k product. I was thinking of wet sanding it before clear.
@@sethhamilton5824 First, I went through about 5 different trials. I used Arroyo 1k for the base. Then Arroyo 1k High Gloss. That looked pretty amazing, but I hit it with a gentle 3k wet sand, and Mira polish with a RA polisher. I could damn near shave in it.
Richard,after sanding wash and dry the paintwork and before you apply the finish coat use a tack cloth over the paint to remove any dust.
Can you please share what nozzle did you use to spray the Advanced paint on your trim?
i"m not sure which exact orifice size he used but that is a fine finish low pressure tip {fflp} i use a 308 tip for trim and cabinets. i also like to use a 310 fflp tip on cabinets if i cant find a 308 but you gotta move a little faster.
I've been using sprung in-between coats for years never thought anyone else was doing it as well that's cool. My first rub I do dry spunge then wet. I got the idea from a body shop they use wet and dry so I thought I wonder if I could use a wet spunge.
I do the same but for sand paper, I use the sponged, velcro pads that I usually use for final sand on my drywall, (I always have worn down used ones). It's Trim-Tex Black Widow sand paper, in my opinion, it leaves the smoothest finish for any 220 grit I have ever used, and I've used them all.
Thanks for showing how to get that finished looking hot!
Make sure you primer over the bondo before you topcoat
Haven’t ventured into the world of 2k finish yet? I’ve never used BMA. But I’ve used SW emerald urethane a lot. And their new gallery series. Both a great to me.
Man such a huge fan of Richard, he gets better everyday
I don't use a lot of BM products these days, but I do like Advanced as well as their Stix primer.
Throw the respirator on. Titanium dioxide isn't good for you long-term.
We shoot all our cabinet projects with Advanced and have been for years. Advanced is as good as it gets. We normally get a glass finish with 3 to 4 even coats. You need to add some metallic finish in on a built-in if you get the opportunity too. Metallic makes a finish look amazing.
What do you use as a primer for raw MDF? I want to spray on something water-based. Don't mind if I have to sand and do 2 coats
We always seal raw MDF with an oil primer and, if possible, a slow, dry oil. Otherwise, you will have an issue. We have had latex primer, not seal the MDF, and in some cases, swell the MDF.
what metallic product do you use? i,m going to try that.
In my handyman business Bondo has been a game changer.. that and I feel it is a harder material than spackle. Thanks for the tip on paint though..
I appreciate your skill (via Eduardo) and your knowledge (via Eduardo). 😂 Knowing who to call when you want to up your game is most valuable. Now you’re helping at least 9,000 more who are trying to up their game as well!
Wow, I’ve been a finished carpenter for 27 years. You better than me and I’ve learned a lot huge fan.
I have been doing this since i saw your episode when you wanted to know what Eduardo did. i use it all the time now. and it prevents having to vacuum
all the dust. also use this to sand out runs. all this is from your channel. see you make a difference.
Beautiful! I can’t tell if it’s the new camera, the lighting or John’s absence behind the lens but the video quality hasn’t been as clear and crisp in the last couple of videos.
that color looks really nice, especially with that professional coat
The process makes sense, it's kind of like the steps to paint a car. It looks amazing!
Any advice on uneven look on orange peel texture? I see weird shadowing at angles. It’s in the stairwell so the walls are large and tall. Used BM regency.
Im watching a mad scientist at work!
beautiful job!
Eduardo came in CLUTCH!
Water based alkyd enamel is the way to go as you have discovered. All the advantages of oil based enamel without the disadvantages and so much better than acrylic. It seems it is quite popular in the States with a lot of different brands but not used much here in Australia. That's pretty normal we are normally quite a few years behind the US so I suspect it will become the norm here before too long.
Is that what the Ben Moore Advance paint is?
@@MadLadsAnonymousLiving in Australia I'm obviously not conversant with all the products available in the States but the name 'Advance' does 'ring a bell'. Here in Australia there are only two brands that offer the product but no doubt there will be many more soon. Having used it, it is certainly my preferred option.
@@kelstra1997 Cheers. I watched some more reviews and that is indeed what BM Advance is. Curious how it compares to Gallery plus crosslinker (Sayerlack)
Very nice work again 👌👍👏
Awesome work. Do you dry the trim after the wet sanding, or just let it air dry before next coat? Thanks!
After your wet sand, take a flashlight and check for any shrinkage and hit it with glazing putty.
Sand it properly and give it your final coat
Try Benjamin Moore Command it dries extremely fast and sand beautifully
The glaze smells like acetone for a good few hours. The drydex isn’t as good, but a rattle can of BIN where you used makes it coat as if it wasn’t there. It stinks like alcohol, but for less time.
Love the content, especially the ornate stuff like the mantle.
I never wanted to do my finishing when got into wood working! Now it’s probably what we do best and separates us from the rest! Go figure.
Many automotive finishing technics carryover to interior painting...
I like new Sherwin William great
Products gallery series
Drys nice....
Yes I went through about 4 gallons of gallery for a client. Doors and trim. I like it a lot but you can't roll or brush it. Very durable and dries fast.
Hey man, you inspired me and now I’m doing what I love which is finish carpentry!
My only trouble is knowing how to charge for a
detail job like that ?
Carpentry and paint.
Would you be kind to share some ideas?
Thank you keep up the good work.
I have been a painting contractor for 40 years and Sherwin Williams Emerald urethane trim enamel is the best trim and cabinet paint that I have ever sprayed. Hands down the best.
The cost of a gallon is where it hurts. Just saying.
Advance is far better than Emerald, it lays flatter and the sheens are spot on. Emerald semigloss is the only sheen that ever comes close to the advertised sheens.
I will look into it. What is the average cost of a gallon?@@remodz6385
Looks amazing! Love that color.
Looks amazing!
I was wondering what color the mantel was going to be. I almost thought it might be same color as the window in the laundry room,it would definitely be a super bold accent color. But yeah most definitely hope to see you spray that mantel once complete!
Great info on the finish. Where do you get your moldings?
What combination of molding did you use for your casing?
Looks good. But nothing beats satin Impervo. That's a true satin.
Beautiful work! So to clarify for final finish you will spray one layer, then wet sand, then spray second and final coat of final finish? No more wet sanding/sanding after second final finish coat? Thx
that is correct. I would wait 24 hours before sanding and respraying.
use xim in the paint it will make the paint flow out much better it is available for both latex & oil based paint
Ok, we just used BM Aura for exterior stucco and wooden beams. Loved it, so smooth.
Ian BM Advance even better, or is it just better for interior work?
Aura is for walls, Advance is for trim
Looks extremely nice
Hey Gordo how do you wet sand wet sponge 🧽 like a car tip paint cool
Hey great video first off! I have a question: I love the profile of the casings and would love to make for my house - what is the molding type you used between the two boards? I've looked all over and can't seem to find that profile.
Also, I have used BM Advance for awhile and have really come to enjoy it after getting past the learning curve. Love your channel and content, keep it up. Simple, instructional videos without a bunch of distraction and nuisance cutaways a lot of other youtubers have been doing lately. Keep it up!
I was going to suggest glazing bondo. It works great!