Well, I personally prefer to apply washes after oil dots, because sometimes when you blend dots oil paint might cover washes. Quite difficult to clean it up from all gaps and etc. And the funny thing - despite of the lacquer (surface) type, I wait for about 10-15 minutes for thinner to evaporate, and then goes another layer of effects. What's the secret? Apply varnish :D Surprisingly, it doesn't affect previous layer of oil or enamel if the varnish is acrylic. Well at least it works for me))
All of your videos are the BEST. Well videoed, lighted, explained, etc. Thank you soooooo much. I am in very poor health and modeling helps me relax. I am building models to pass on as part of the art that I do.
I have to say, as a long, long time miniature-wargamer/painter who's recently started applying modelling techniques to my painting (oils, enamels, filters etc.) your channel is fast becoming my favourote source for inspiration and tips! Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next video!
Friiiiiiiday... and with a new exciting Night Shift video.... Best day of the week of course 😍😍😍. Thank you so much for this very inspiring tutorial. You are my hero !!!
Well, that has to be the first time I have actually seen anyone do the dot technique that I could actually understand, and follow. So, I suppose I need to dig out the oils, and see if I can actually duplicate the results.... although I will be working on a hulk at first. This definitely is a great channel, and I am learning a lot.... definitely love the weld seams and texture. Thank you for sharing...
I do not know if someone has already said it sir, but its channel has become one of the best (If not, the best) modeling channels here in you tube. And I assure you that I do not like to praise in a simplistic way. Congratulations! I wish to reach soon the 300 thousand subscribers or more, which is the number of subscribers that has another fantastic modeling channel here.
Wow looks like from the photo. Great video as always. My friend started to watch your videos too. Btw my broken Fw-190 canopy glass is back in game! I contacted eduard support if they could send me another clear pieces. They said yes and they sent them. Now I can continue :D yay. If is anybody reading this from eduard I have to say THANK YOU to you!
I recently discovered your channel and can't get enough of your videos! So many interesting techniques. Are you going to setup a Patreon account? I'd definitely support!
OMG... thank you, thank you so much, there is so many video, guide talk about using oil dot paint.... but i never found anyone talk about how each color will influence or change the tone of base coat
Martin, my dude, every single technique you do is astounding! I also really appreciate that you explain every step. I now know why my dot fading has never worked well (I flood the surface with thinner) =P
Andrew Schnack thank you for pointing that out, man i had the same problem but don't abandon the technique when you apply too much thinner with the oil dots it makes for great streaks and similar effects i love the filter washes but the dot filter technique is more direct
Once again awesome video. I just got the remaining oil colours and can’t wait to start blending. I’m glad I have seen this because I would have done them one at at time...
Martin. Thanks buddy, bloody clever. Although I was with both aircraft and armour I am getting back into modelling aircraft after a few decades and your techniques and skills are inspired chap. Don't worry about the English. My Russian sucks and most of us can't speak English properly either😁
Love your Channel man! Your voice and accent are perfekt and easy to the ear' you should dö podcasts 😁 Your toutorials are exelent and you tecniqes amacing. Thank you for a wonderfully proffesional channel.
When it comes to varnish, I paint the base coat and camo, then gloss to apply water markings so they don't silver and to make pin washing faster, and then apply a matt coat to eliminate the gloss.
Thanks for the tutorial :) i am in the procces of washing Tamiya tiger I early, and while there is not much to wash on lower deck, the wheels are quite time consuming (overall 36 wheels :).
Brother, this is exactly why I think your next project should be a fantasy model - a robot of some kind (I think W.H.40K or Robotech) - it's because people who build, compete and judge these things need to see YOUR take on interpreting things like maintenance and environmental effects, how and what to add to a model, not to mention WHEN to leave the instruction's script in favor of your own, and especially, how to get the most realistic effects by not limiting yourself to just acrylics and a sharpie. (Whenever I see a kid on TH-cam color something in with a red sharpie, one of my sea monkies climbs out of his included underwater environment and throws itself into the 'money' candle I vigilantly keep burning next to the roller coaster section of the 9 piece ocean zoo. We have to stop the madness!) So you see, it's not just for me, it's for the monkies.
Hello! Happy New Year to you!!! Thank you for all this amazing content 🙂 Please, as we are using enamel thinner, is it possible to use enamel paints (e.g. Humbrol) instead of oil paints? Thank you very much
Exciting!!! Like fine wine - getting better with age. Thanks for answering on your forum - much appreciated. If you were doing a three tone German camo late war what paint would you mix in to distress the base colour of Late War German Yellow - I'm using Mission Paints (similar to Tamiya's dark yellow...sort of). And for Red camo? Green camo? Would you distress an open fighting compartment like a Hummel or Nashorn? I'm thinking not however might be an interesting look. Thanks, Tim
That's a pretty interesting question. As for fighting compartments, I would probably add lots of distressing to the lower parts like the floors and lower half of the walls and keep it more "cleaner" towards the top. For distressing German yellow I'd just add white or light grey. Green and brown, hmm... adding German yellow could work, it would make them look more faded and would also work as a textured filter - it would slightly merge those 3 paints together.
Great video as usual! I only discovered your channel recently, but I've been watching a lot of your videos as the techniques you use are really good and I want to try them out for warhammer vehicles and possibly infantry.
Martin, as many others have said, I think your videos are excellent and so helpful. I have a question for you. It looks like you sometimes apply acrylic paint techniques over oil washes and filters. Have you ever found this to be a problem? Do you use clear coats between the layers? I feel like I remember way back hearing that you can't put acrylics over oils. Thanks again for your wonderful videos
hey Night Shift! Really cool material as always! But I do have a question. Could you please tell me if is it possible that after base colour, when I protected it by leyer of Vallejo gloss varnish and painted it enamel washes tneh they did not dry in 24 hours?
Wow this was nearly a year ago, Do you Thin the oils down at all? They look quite thin when you apply the dots to the model, do you allow them to dry on the model before you start to blend them?
Nice techniques sir👍I'd like to do the oil dots blending technique on my gray painted tank, any advice for what colours of oil paint would look good for the dots blending on a gray tank?
Great video as always. I just did a pin wash on a model that was coated in Vallejo satin varnish and I get tide marks... I don't see that happening in this video and you mention you used a semi gloss coat. What could be my problem? Thanx in advance.
That's very interesting. I often had tide marks on matt surfaces, but never on a glossy or satin one. I honestly can't say what went wrong, but you can eliminate most of them by gently tapping the entire model with a large brush and small amount of thinner. Give the washes enough time to dry so you don't remove them. And also, there are many weathering techniques that can hide any remaining tide marks, like rust tones, dust, etc
@@NightShiftScaleModelsThank for the advice... I also noticed that my base coat.... Done using Tamiya Olive Green... Was a bit rough and sandy... Something I have noticed before on my models. I'm now thinking that was the initial issue and that the varnish was not sufficient to form a nice coat and take away the rough edges... I'll try some different combinations on plastic spoons to test...you also use Tamiya with lacquer Thinner... I'm going to give that a try to. Thanx and ill be looking forward to you next video 😀
Hey, night. What oil colours would you generally use for olive drab base colours? I plan to do a Pershing (m26 by Tamiya). I avoided doing the filters on my Sherman as i didn't want to mess it up because i did a good preshading with it (i was experimenting)
Martin. Really detailed and well done, excellent .thank you Please do a Soviet KV2 or JSU 152, or ISU 2 Rough Soviet armor , really enjoyed your video !!
Hi, I painted a model with Vallejo spray paint. I’m using oil paint and mineral spirits for this and realized the spirits is also stripping the base coat. Haha... is this the reason for a clear coat??!! I thought Vallejo spray paint was an acrylic?
Well, they make specific tones we, armor modellers use, i.e. rust, mud, dust etc. When I was using regular oils I always had to mix them to get those tones and it was often tricky. These modelling oils also contain less linseed oil so they're not as messy and are easier to work with.
I've just bought some Mig wash and tried to use it but when I removed the wash with enamel thinner the paint also came off. Do you know what I'm doing wrong? I'm using Tamiya Acrylic paints with no varnishes and Revell Colour Mix.
So apparently I will have to stop my King Tiger build (I am at chipping right now) and wait for your videos. They are so informative and right now I can see I fucked up a little with oils. Anyways keep up the good work!
First of all thank you for your wonderful video! I m a beginner and your videos are very helpful However i still do not enderstand why my enamel black wash is absorb and diffused when I apply it on a mat green color with a layer of semi gloss varnish. ( I use tamiya colors and varnish) If any one coult help me it will be nice :) Merci
Man everytime I see one of your videos it makes me want to get back to modelling! I really want to try those techniques on miniatures, especially the oil blending, the textures are really awesome! But something's always bothering me, they say to never put acrylic over oils, but I saw in some of your videos that you go back to acrylics for details after using oil washes and blending, without a varnish. Is it because the amount of oil paint you use is so low that it doesn't create problems? Or is it an overblown problem? Anyways, thanks for the videos, really enjoying them!
I guess it's like you said, their amount is very small. Might be also a bit overblown issue. Modellers have been doing it like this since I can remember (aka roughly since 2005) and there were never any issues reported in the modelling community. And hey, thanks a lot! I hope you'll give it a try and return to this hobby!
It depends a lot on your desired result. If you want it to be more off-white, then a combination of light grey and some tan/dust or very small amount of yellow. If you want a more clean look, light greys and small amount of light blue. Also, using pure white is problematic. I'd always recommend using very light grey, so you can always use pure white later.
Hello night shift I am quite new to this I am right now 3d printing a LT 35, i want to make it look nice It has to be sandet a lot, What is the most important thing you recommend me to buy. Greetings my friend Btw. Can you link everything you use in the vids, would be quite usefull Edit: Thanks a lot btw. (How rude of me)
eternalASV120 well then I am actually using sandpaper to get rid of the lines (the lines are almost not visible) Now i have the good ol ender 3 It is a FDM 3d printer If you want it for printing models buy a SLA or SLS (if you have enough money) I bought my printer in mind if printing for customers and for my electronics projects I loved these small things when i was young, so i thought why not get into this hobby
@@NightShiftScaleModels thats cool because the LT35 had bolts (these bolts are on the actuall model that i printed) If you see a nice modell on thingiverse and you want it printed you can ask me
Thank you! It’s a nice video. I did a pin wash over a satin varnish to my Tiger I. However, the varnish seems to peel and flake off when I’m removing the excess of the wash. I’ve already tried to be gentle to avoid accidentally rubbing off the varnish but it still comes off after a few stroke. How could I fix it?
Also, I have a problem with the pin wash. I use Winsor and Newton Winton oil paint with Daler and Rowney low odour thinner, applied to recesses, the pigments won't stay in place but flow away leaving traces of thinner in the recesses. The pigments are very visible. I mean GRAINS BY GRAINS. Is this also due to the bad satin varnish from Vallejo or the wash being too dilute?
@@arthurchang5940 hmm that sounds like a bad oil paint to me... but W&N are overall pretty good quality paints. Maybe it's way too diluted, or the paint itself is old and started to deteriorate... if you're struggling with mixing your own washes, I'd recommend buying at least one pre-mixed enamel wash to see how it's supposed to work, how thick should it be etc...
Did you notice something weird?
I usually apply washes first, then add oil dots. OOPS!
JK, it doesn't really matter.
good to know , i got myself a chi-nu and will use your tips and tricks!
cant be breaking the rules lol
Well, I personally prefer to apply washes after oil dots, because sometimes when you blend dots oil paint might cover washes. Quite difficult to clean it up from all gaps and etc. And the funny thing - despite of the lacquer (surface) type, I wait for about 10-15 minutes for thinner to evaporate, and then goes another layer of effects. What's the secret? Apply varnish :D Surprisingly, it doesn't affect previous layer of oil or enamel if the varnish is acrylic. Well at least it works for me))
že ty hravaš wotko?
urob TOG II
new video from martin, best day of the week :D
All of your videos are the BEST. Well videoed, lighted, explained, etc. Thank you soooooo much. I am in very poor health and modeling helps me relax. I am building models to pass on as part of the art that I do.
I have to say, as a long, long time miniature-wargamer/painter who's recently started applying modelling techniques to my painting (oils, enamels, filters etc.) your channel is fast becoming my favourote source for inspiration and tips!
Keep up the good work and can't wait for the next video!
Easily one of the coolest modeling channels in 2019 😍
Friiiiiiiday... and with a new exciting Night Shift video.... Best day of the week of course 😍😍😍. Thank you so much for this very inspiring tutorial. You are my hero !!!
Well, that has to be the first time I have actually seen anyone do the dot technique that I could actually understand, and follow. So, I suppose I need to dig out the oils, and see if I can actually duplicate the results.... although I will be working on a hulk at first.
This definitely is a great channel, and I am learning a lot.... definitely love the weld seams and texture.
Thank you for sharing...
You had me at "living bananas".
Great tutorial as always.
Watching the pin wash getting around the small details.... ASMR part of every paintjob!
Keep rockin' it! 🖖
I do not know if someone has already said it sir, but its channel has become one of the best (If not, the best) modeling channels here in you tube. And I assure you that I do not like to praise in a simplistic way. Congratulations! I wish to reach soon the 300 thousand subscribers or more, which is the number of subscribers that has another fantastic modeling channel here.
Thanks a LOT!!!
Your channel is so entertaining!! Even if you're not a modeler!
Another great one Martin.....cant wait for your next one, you have committed now ;-)
Wow looks like from the photo. Great video as always. My friend started to watch your videos too. Btw my broken Fw-190 canopy glass is back in game! I contacted eduard support if they could send me another clear pieces. They said yes and they sent them. Now I can continue :D yay. If is anybody reading this from eduard I have to say THANK YOU to you!
That's great news! Awesome!
Thank you for this very helpful and informative video. Great sense of humor too! Wish you were part of our model club. Cheers!
I recently discovered your channel and can't get enough of your videos! So many interesting techniques. Are you going to setup a Patreon account? I'd definitely support!
Thanks a lot! I'm thinking about it, but I don't yet have a clear idea about tiers and rewards :)
Love your videos Night Shift! I learn more from your videos than any other or magazines for that matter.
From Polka Party Tank to Weathered Warmachine by Martin Kovac
OMG... thank you, thank you so much, there is so many video, guide talk about using oil dot paint.... but i never found anyone talk about how each color will influence or change the tone of base coat
Always nice to see another night shift video and that sexy Eastern European accent. Informative and fun/ny
Martin, my dude, every single technique you do is astounding! I also really appreciate that you explain every step. I now know why my dot fading has never worked well (I flood the surface with thinner) =P
Andrew Schnack thank you for pointing that out, man i had the same problem but don't abandon the technique when you apply too much thinner with the oil dots it makes for great streaks and similar effects i love the filter washes but the dot filter technique is more direct
Once again awesome video. I just got the remaining oil colours and can’t wait to start blending. I’m glad I have seen this because I would have done them one at at time...
That's also a way of doing it and there's nothing wrong about it! But hey, this way it seems a bit more fun and time efficient
Absolutely fantastic! simply the best channel from youtube!
It is really enjoyable to view your videos. And adding your sense of humour, HAH! Boooom ;)
You, good sir are in need of some of the fabled (liquid) green stuff. That stuff is fabulous to use.
Martin. Thanks buddy, bloody clever. Although I was with both aircraft and armour I am getting back into modelling aircraft after a few decades and your techniques and skills are inspired chap. Don't worry about the English. My Russian sucks and most of us can't speak English properly either😁
And to think I used to hate night shift, not anymore lol.....Great video.
Love your Channel man!
Your voice and accent are perfekt and easy to the ear' you should dö podcasts 😁
Your toutorials are exelent and you tecniqes amacing.
Thank you for a wonderfully proffesional channel.
Brilliant video as usual Martin.
I can't wait to see the wheels video
When it comes to varnish, I paint the base coat and camo, then gloss to apply water markings so they don't silver and to make pin washing faster, and then apply a matt coat to eliminate the gloss.
Blended oil dots knock the glossy finish down significantly, so they eliminate the need to apply another coat of varnish.
Awesome video as always. Learned a lot!
Awesome video brother keep up the hard work you are the best on TH-cam on the planet
This channel is going to be huge
Just found your channel these are some of the best models i have seen. Too bad im an aircraft guy but you make me want to try tanks now
Nice Martin. It's looking good so far.
Thanks Scott. Great job with that new video of yours.
Night Shift thanks so much bud!!
Excellent tutorial! Always make me laugh 🤣
Thanks for the tutorial :) i am in the procces of washing Tamiya tiger I early, and while there is not much to wash on lower deck, the wheels are quite time consuming (overall 36 wheels :).
Thanks for the great video. I am just trying to learn before trying on my first model and this is really helpful!
Martin, thanks for new model fun video!
Your tanks always look so good! Great videos too ( the only videos I dont skip lol)
What a timing! I just got my first oil colours and was looking for a tutorial on them
What a great time to be alive!!!
I love it, helps a lot like allways
thanks for this tutorial. id like to know if there is a rule of thumb of what colors of oil paint you need for a specific color or tone. thanks !
Great vid Martin, that's some fast brushstrokes 🙃
Keep them coming 👍🏻
Well...the bloopers remind me of being in school and doing a presentation in front of the class.
Again a very good video! Btw, i grabbed a beer instead of some thinner. Tastes better i think 😋.
gold hand !! Amazing !
Brother, this is exactly why I think your next project should be a fantasy model - a robot of some kind (I think W.H.40K or Robotech) - it's because people who build, compete and judge these things need to see YOUR take on interpreting things like maintenance and environmental effects, how and what to add to a model, not to mention WHEN to leave the instruction's script in favor of your own, and especially, how to get the most realistic effects by not limiting yourself to just acrylics and a sharpie. (Whenever I see a kid on TH-cam color something in with a red sharpie, one of my sea monkies climbs out of his included underwater environment and throws itself into the 'money' candle I vigilantly keep burning next to the roller coaster section of the 9 piece ocean zoo. We have to stop the madness!) So you see, it's not just for me, it's for the monkies.
Oh, well I guess I’ll have to do it then. For the monkies of course 🙉
Top notch; learning (or shoudl that be re-learning?) a lot. Nice work so far; looking forward to next vid.
Lovely 😊 videos! For German ‘Dark Yellow’ distressing technique, which Tamiya paints would you recommend?
Please please please add the other oil paint tip! Loving all these videos
Hello! Happy New Year to you!!! Thank you for all this amazing content 🙂 Please, as we are using enamel thinner, is it possible to use enamel paints (e.g. Humbrol) instead of oil paints? Thank you very much
Amazing humour ...and of course nice paint technique....🚿😎...... regards Fred
our-pour =) I just can't stop enjoying these bloopers =)
Exciting!!! Like fine wine - getting better with age. Thanks for answering on your forum - much appreciated. If you were doing a three tone German camo late war what paint would you mix in to distress the base colour of Late War German Yellow - I'm using Mission Paints (similar to Tamiya's dark yellow...sort of). And for Red camo? Green camo? Would you distress an open fighting compartment like a Hummel or Nashorn? I'm thinking not however might be an interesting look.
Thanks,
Tim
That's a pretty interesting question. As for fighting compartments, I would probably add lots of distressing to the lower parts like the floors and lower half of the walls and keep it more "cleaner" towards the top. For distressing German yellow I'd just add white or light grey. Green and brown, hmm... adding German yellow could work, it would make them look more faded and would also work as a textured filter - it would slightly merge those 3 paints together.
got my glass of enamel thinner ..
CHEERS!!
Cheers!!
Great video as usual! I only discovered your channel recently, but I've been watching a lot of your videos as the techniques you use are really good and I want to try them out for warhammer vehicles and possibly infantry.
Martin, as many others have said, I think your videos are excellent and so helpful. I have a question for you. It looks like you sometimes apply acrylic paint techniques over oil washes and filters. Have you ever found this to be a problem? Do you use clear coats between the layers? I feel like I remember way back hearing that you can't put acrylics over oils. Thanks again for your wonderful videos
Such a great video! Thank you!
hey Night Shift! Really cool material as always! But I do have a question. Could you please tell me if is it possible that after base colour, when I protected it by leyer of Vallejo gloss varnish and painted it enamel washes tneh they did not dry in 24 hours?
Again an awesome video! Thank you!
Imaš odlične tehnike i odlično ih objašnjavaš. Sub+like! :D
The plane man 🥺
Thanks martin !!!!😃😃😃😃
"Just sit back, grab your bottle of enamel thinner and enjoy!"
That came out waaaaay too wrong! XD
Sir, how do you clean the brush after using the texture effect process, the putty and cement residues? What and how to clean?
He told me in the comments that he uses cement so clean the brushes. Works surprisingly well.
@@krautreport202 Yep, this. I've just finished some Shermans up and used the same cement for the technique to clean the brush. Works great 👍
Wow this was nearly a year ago, Do you Thin the oils down at all? They look quite thin when you apply the dots to the model, do you allow them to dry on the model before you start to blend them?
Nice techniques sir👍I'd like to do the oil dots blending technique on my gray painted tank, any advice for what colours of oil paint would look good for the dots blending on a gray tank?
I'd love to try this technique but the Wilder weathering oils seem pretty hard to get a hold of- is there an easier to find alternative?
Great video as always.
I just did a pin wash on a model that was coated in Vallejo satin varnish and I get tide marks... I don't see that happening in this video and you mention you used a semi gloss coat. What could be my problem?
Thanx in advance.
That's very interesting. I often had tide marks on matt surfaces, but never on a glossy or satin one. I honestly can't say what went wrong, but you can eliminate most of them by gently tapping the entire model with a large brush and small amount of thinner. Give the washes enough time to dry so you don't remove them. And also, there are many weathering techniques that can hide any remaining tide marks, like rust tones, dust, etc
@@NightShiftScaleModelsThank for the advice... I also noticed that my base coat.... Done using Tamiya Olive Green... Was a bit rough and sandy... Something I have noticed before on my models.
I'm now thinking that was the initial issue and that the varnish was not sufficient to form a nice coat and take away the rough edges... I'll try some different combinations on plastic spoons to test...you also use Tamiya with lacquer Thinner... I'm going to give that a try to.
Thanx and ill be looking forward to you next video 😀
Where do I buy wilder oils because I can’t seem to find the website.
youre my hero 🥺🫡🫡🍻🍻🍻
Hey, night. What oil colours would you generally use for olive drab base colours? I plan to do a Pershing (m26 by Tamiya). I avoided doing the filters on my Sherman as i didn't want to mess it up because i did a good preshading with it (i was experimenting)
Not sure if I missed it but a direct before and after at the end of the video would be awesome just to see the effect in action
Thanks for the advice! I'll start doing that whenever possible!
Great video as usual, thanks a lot!
Martin. Really detailed and well done, excellent .thank you
Please do a Soviet KV2 or JSU 152, or ISU 2
Rough Soviet armor , really enjoyed your video !!
Rough Soviet armor is my favorite! :)
"So sit back, grab your bottle of enamel thinner.." 😮
(12 seconds later)
Me: spit out enamel thinner 😝
Thanks for another well done video :)
nice video Martin
In the past, I've had issues with tide marks left over from the washes. What can I do to help prevent those tide marks?
Help, I am trapped in a wash applying/removin loop for 3 months now! D:
Hi, I painted a model with Vallejo spray paint. I’m using oil paint and mineral spirits for this and realized the spirits is also stripping the base coat. Haha... is this the reason for a clear coat??!! I thought Vallejo spray paint was an acrylic?
From your point of view, is there any difference between Wilder or Abteilung brands in comparison with ordinary decent oil paints?
Well, they make specific tones we, armor modellers use, i.e. rust, mud, dust etc. When I was using regular oils I always had to mix them to get those tones and it was often tricky. These modelling oils also contain less linseed oil so they're not as messy and are easier to work with.
I've just bought some Mig wash and tried to use it but when I removed the wash with enamel thinner the paint also came off. Do you know what I'm doing wrong?
I'm using Tamiya Acrylic paints with no varnishes and Revell Colour Mix.
Bro you read my mind? I had some questions about blending oils. I was just about to do random stuff with them
So apparently I will have to stop my King Tiger build (I am at chipping right now) and wait for your videos. They are so informative and right now I can see I fucked up a little with oils. Anyways keep up the good work!
First of all thank you for your wonderful video! I m a beginner and your videos are very helpful
However i still do not enderstand why my enamel black wash is absorb and diffused when I apply it on a mat green color with a layer of semi gloss varnish.
( I use tamiya colors and varnish)
If any one coult help me it will be nice :)
Merci
OUR POWER aka NEXT VIDEO срочно!
Cool job! Can you make Warsaw uprising panther in future?
Hmmm, maybe
@@NightShiftScaleModels will be cool and in this year is 75 anniversary of Warsaw uprising.
this was really detailed :D
Yeah
Are every tipes of oil paint good for oil dots?
Man everytime I see one of your videos it makes me want to get back to modelling! I really want to try those techniques on miniatures, especially the oil blending, the textures are really awesome! But something's always bothering me, they say to never put acrylic over oils, but I saw in some of your videos that you go back to acrylics for details after using oil washes and blending, without a varnish. Is it because the amount of oil paint you use is so low that it doesn't create problems? Or is it an overblown problem?
Anyways, thanks for the videos, really enjoying them!
I guess it's like you said, their amount is very small. Might be also a bit overblown issue. Modellers have been doing it like this since I can remember (aka roughly since 2005) and there were never any issues reported in the modelling community.
And hey, thanks a lot! I hope you'll give it a try and return to this hobby!
Would you panel wash on zimmerate?
sir, a question on oil dots... what if I have a white painted part? what combination of oil colors should be used? thanks in advance
It depends a lot on your desired result. If you want it to be more off-white, then a combination of light grey and some tan/dust or very small amount of yellow. If you want a more clean look, light greys and small amount of light blue.
Also, using pure white is problematic. I'd always recommend using very light grey, so you can always use pure white later.
Hello night shift
I am quite new to this
I am right now 3d printing a LT 35, i want to make it look nice
It has to be sandet a lot,
What is the most important thing you recommend me to buy.
Greetings my friend
Btw. Can you link everything you use in the vids, would be quite usefull
Edit: Thanks a lot btw. (How rude of me)
Sounds like a cool project. What kind of printer are you using?
Guess the most important thing will be tons of putty to get rid of printer lines))
eternalASV120 well then
I am actually using sandpaper to get rid of the lines (the lines are almost not visible)
Now i have the good ol ender 3
It is a FDM 3d printer
If you want it for printing models buy a SLA or SLS (if you have enough money)
I bought my printer in mind if printing for customers and for my electronics projects
I loved these small things when i was young, so i thought why not get into this hobby
I don't have any experience with 3D printing, but from what I've seen on TH-cam, using spray primer/filler can eliminate most of those printer lines
@@NightShiftScaleModels thats cool because the LT35 had bolts (these bolts are on the actuall model that i printed)
If you see a nice modell on thingiverse and you want it printed you can ask me
Thank you 🙏🏻!
For the oil dots, are you thinning the oil paint first before applying? If so, how thin?
Loving the channel btw!
Thank you! It’s a nice video. I did a pin wash over a satin varnish to my Tiger I. However, the varnish seems to peel and flake off when I’m removing the excess of the wash. I’ve already tried to be gentle to avoid accidentally rubbing off the varnish but it still comes off after a few stroke. How could I fix it?
Ouch, is it a Vallejo varnish? 😕 I’d recommend Tamiya or some other lacquer based varnish, they’re very strong
@@NightShiftScaleModels Oh shoot yes it's Vallejo... is it ok to apply a Tamiya semi-gloss over Vallejo acrylic?
Also, I have a problem with the pin wash. I use Winsor and Newton Winton oil paint with Daler and Rowney low odour thinner, applied to recesses, the pigments won't stay in place but flow away leaving traces of thinner in the recesses. The pigments are very visible. I mean GRAINS BY GRAINS. Is this also due to the bad satin varnish from Vallejo or the wash being too dilute?
@@arthurchang5940 perfectly okay mate, do that and you're good to go!
@@arthurchang5940 hmm that sounds like a bad oil paint to me... but W&N are overall pretty good quality paints. Maybe it's way too diluted, or the paint itself is old and started to deteriorate... if you're struggling with mixing your own washes, I'd recommend buying at least one pre-mixed enamel wash to see how it's supposed to work, how thick should it be etc...
I'm watching the video well. Do you want to make images using lacquer series or enamel paint? I think you are mainly using acrylic series ^^
I mainly use lacquer paints for airbrushing because they're easy to work with and are durable when oil and enamel paints are laid on top of them :)
Night Shift Thank you for your answers. ^^
Tech Intel means we shoot it to crap?