Love how you solved a complex machining problem with simple tooling. You're inspiring others by demonstrating that they don't have to have a huge shop and all kinds of fancy equipment, jigs and machines that only perform one function.
If you would sell the sheet metal that is not possible for the average mechanic to make as a DIY package, then you would have a thriving business. Many people would like to build themselves, but the sheet metal is always a problem. And which DIY can or has an english wheel. My compliments for what you have made
You never cease to amaze me. Even something as simple as clamping the torque tube between to angle iron to weld is filed away in my brain. You are teaching a bunch of old dogs new tricks!
I am, simply put, amazed! I have watched many of your videos and am still in awe of your approach to each part of this build. As a machinist and engineer of over 40 years I can see, while watching your videos, that I have a tendency to over-think things. Thank you for sharing these videos as it gives me hope for our young people today.
Nice job, great to see someone else that bevels the joint before welding, i see too many here on TH-cam here who just cut and but weld without beveling anything, hope you plan to go back to the hard steel pins in the drive coupling instead of bolts to keep the balance, also, one last thing, with shortening the driveshaft and torque tube i hope you dont run into angularity issues , for a given suspension travel the now shorter setup will have a greater angularity.
FYI to anyone who wants to recut their own. When we recut splines , on the third pass we normally use 1/8 inch end mill on centerline or equivalent for the width you need. We run into not having the correct woodruff cutter width, or having to buy multiples.
Out standing job on the drive train. Really like the way you look at the problem, figure out a solution and then take us along as you do the work. You have a lot of knowledge, skills and abilities for a Man of your age
Know what I like about you. Your the type to ask yourself how to do something. Not if you can. The type I have full faith could do anything they wanted. Too many people ask how to do things these days instead of just figuring it out and doing it.
Excellent as always. The Riley 9 Brooklands I am building has a very similar torque tube arrangement. The ball is on the end of the tube and the rear of the gearbox makes up one half of the socket and the hand and foot brake mounting mechanism makes up the rear half. You fit brass shims between the two to get the right clearance in the joint. The coupling on the end of the driveshaft is pretty much the same as yours. On the Riley it's called the muff coupling and connects the drive shaft to the diff pinion gear. I had my tube and driveshaft shortened by an engineer who deals with 4WD vehicles usually and he did a great job at a good price. On the Riley 9 the rear of the tube is an interference fit into the front cover of the differential then riveted in place. Only having a tiny lathe I wasn't able to turn down the cut off end of the tube to fit by myself!
Great use of your rotary table. Next time you might want to consider an end Mill that has more flutes / cutting edges. When you're doing a spline in steel.
I love your amazing metal work. And absolutely love this build. You're doing an amazing job. Keep it up 👍This Old Tony has a great video on cutting splines like this and mentioned something about leaving the end of the cut square like that. Something about possibly to reduce stress cracks.
I like what you did there with the milling the splines and how you are taking the time that is needed to do the job right from what I can see, wish you the best on this and all your projects...
You obviously really think about each task before tackling it. And your methods always seem to be spot on. You have a lot of skills and talent to devise ways to accomplish what you want. Thumbs Up!
Very well thought out and executed ! Great machining skills, especially for such a young guy! The future of the hobby appears to be in really good hands. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent job as usual. I'm looking forward to how you'll tackle the shift lever and it's forward placement. Always impressed with your welding skills. Keep up the good work.
With that 6 cylinder, I have a feeling you're building a small Rocket Ship. Absolutely cannot wait. ;-p So interesting following you every step of the way.
If I remember correctly, the old Ford torque-tubes had an A-frame from the ball-joint to the outer ends of the rear axles - the purpose was to stiffen up the whole rear axle assembly and prevent longitudinal movement of the rear axle on acceleration & braking, not just relying on the transverse spring. So I think you need a control arm coming forward from the outboard of each rear axle to a pivot point inline with the ball-joint on the torque tube... OR a Watts Linkage to constrain the movement of the back axle to a vertical direction - your Panhard rod does the same thing in the transverse direction.
Please make sure to refit the two rear radius rods as they are designed for triangulation. Otherwise you are only relaying on where the torque tube bolts to the rear centre section to hold all the stresses of the rear axle.
desde Argentina te felicito es un gran trabajo y mucho oficio yoreparo trasmiciones automaticas y contrui un CURVED DASH 1903 durante 21 años y lo empese alos 45 años y fabrique absulatamente todo en el taller hasta los faroles de kerosene tenes un gran Don que nos regalo DIOS APLAUSOS DESDE AQUI
It's nice to see that you are incorporating old technology with the new. I saw a model A Ford rear at the scrap yard that someone had used to build a farm trailer. It's a shame that people don't care about history. Do you happen to have an old model a clutch disc around? I'm going to use an old transmission from a model A, and need this for my power input.i would also be interested in what you would charge to make me a stub shaft for the output side from the u joint.
Really enjoy watching what you are doing I tried to do a similar axle drive and found i kept getting excessive wear because the parts were not heat treated
Hey Sir. Hope your 4th of July was good. I have a question of course. Why not weld the spline and coupler together for extra strength? So we will have a chevy transmission matted to a ford engine I see. And maybe put a grease fitting on that dome thing where the drive shaft goes into the transmission, so that you can keep it lubricated. Thanks for the great video.
Excellent job on the re-splining. I did a similar job recently but used a tubular driveshaft so I avoided any re-splining. I think the method you chose worked very well. A couple of comments, if I may. 1, the relatively short length of the driveshaft made it fit on the milling table. Most times the shaft is quite a lot longer so holding it and indexing it would mean some imaginative solution (which I'm sure you could handle). 2, I'm not sure if that shaft is like the ones I have, but the shaft diameter is smaller along most of it's length and only comes up to full diameter at the splined parts and in the middle where a support bearing is. Is your shaft slightly undersize where the splines have been cut? I don't think it is a problem, but couldn't quite see from the video. 3, Using a high tensile bolt is not a great idea. They can fatigue and break. You are better off using a pin of relatively malleable steel and then putting something like a hose clip over it to stop the ends falling out if it breaks. I use two to maintain the balance. 4, As I said, I did a similar job recently and covered it in a video series. I show some alignment checking techniques which may be interesting to you as they do not require any specialised equipment. You might want to check it out. Thanks for showing the re-splining process, I might give it a go this way if I need to do the job again. All the best, Mart in England.
Traditionally, a cigarette paper is used to zero out the endmill, it's much thinner than regular printing paper (about 22 microns, or just over half a thou vs 100 microns or 2.5 thou).
done a realy nice job on cutting those splines , never seen it done that way but it saves you making a custom milling bit mightve used a pipecutter on that torque tube though d1qgi7ksrq21ya.cloudfront.net/media/catalog/product/cache/53f7e7bf262f1a75275189d121ad7ff7/d/s/dsc_0850_1_16.jpg makes a straighter cut its a nice setup , you only need a panhard bar or a watts linkage to keep the rear suspension in place under the car (panhard bar is more period correct i think )
Am I missing something? Why would you want a torque tube, seems like an old solution for weak chassis. This looks pretty substantial for what it is. Also is the pivot point for the rear arms at the ball join? Could see it pulling itself apart if not
Love how you solved a complex machining problem with simple tooling. You're inspiring others by demonstrating that they don't have to have a huge shop and all kinds of fancy equipment, jigs and machines that only perform one function.
If you would sell the sheet metal that is not possible for the average mechanic to make as a DIY package, then you would have a thriving business. Many people would like to build themselves, but the sheet metal is always a problem. And which DIY can or has an english wheel. My compliments for what you have made
You never cease to amaze me. Even something as simple as clamping the torque tube between to angle iron to weld is filed away in my brain. You are teaching a bunch of old dogs new tricks!
You never cease to amaze me. This build is definitely one of the best on YT. Billy J..... Australia.
I really don't understand why people put a thumbs down. This was great to watch. I guess they are jealous that they can't do this kind of cool work.
Figuring out how to accomplish what you want from what you have on hand. Gotta love it!
It is like watching a masterclass in problem-solving. An amazing young man.
I am, simply put, amazed! I have watched many of your videos and am still in awe of your approach to each part of this build. As a machinist and engineer of over 40 years I can see, while watching your videos, that I have a tendency to over-think things. Thank you for sharing these videos as it gives me hope for our young people today.
Glad you like them!
I would sugest changing those bolts to pins on the drive shaft to keep it all in balance.
Nice job, great to see someone else that bevels the joint before welding, i see too many here on TH-cam here who just cut and but weld without beveling anything, hope you plan to go back to the hard steel pins in the drive coupling instead of bolts to keep the balance, also, one last thing, with shortening the driveshaft and torque tube i hope you dont run into angularity issues , for a given suspension travel the now shorter setup will have a greater angularity.
FYI to anyone who wants to recut their own. When we recut splines , on the third pass we normally use 1/8 inch end mill on centerline or equivalent for the width you need. We run into not having the correct woodruff cutter width, or having to buy multiples.
Thats going to be a amazing car, hard to tell from a genuine vintage.
Intelligence in abundance,from this young bloke...Cheers
Out standing job on the drive train. Really like the way you look at the problem, figure out a solution and then take us along as you do the work. You have a lot of knowledge, skills and abilities for a Man of your age
Know what I like about you. Your the type to ask yourself how to do something. Not if you can. The type I have full faith could do anything they wanted. Too many people ask how to do things these days instead of just figuring it out and doing it.
Great to have you watching!
@@MacroMachines bet it’s not the intention but that things probably gonna be quite fast when done. It’s not gonna weigh anything. Should be fun to see
I'm always greatly pleased when I see there is a new post here. And I am never disappointed with the content.
Thanks again for taking the time to shot and edit the videos for your fans! I am excited for every new episode
Proof that really nice work can be accomplished with ingenuity and less than optimal shop machines.
Excellent as always. The Riley 9 Brooklands I am building has a very similar torque tube arrangement. The ball is on the end of the tube and the rear of the gearbox makes up one half of the socket and the hand and foot brake mounting mechanism makes up the rear half. You fit brass shims between the two to get the right clearance in the joint. The coupling on the end of the driveshaft is pretty much the same as yours. On the Riley it's called the muff coupling and connects the drive shaft to the diff pinion gear. I had my tube and driveshaft shortened by an engineer who deals with 4WD vehicles usually and he did a great job at a good price. On the Riley 9 the rear of the tube is an interference fit into the front cover of the differential then riveted in place. Only having a tiny lathe I wasn't able to turn down the cut off end of the tube to fit by myself!
I really like the way you do things. Cutting the splines was a special treat. Thank you.
That was a really good demonstration of lateral thinking, well done!
Great use of your rotary table. Next time you might want to consider an end Mill that has more flutes / cutting edges. When you're doing a spline in steel.
One other thought, if you switch to using rolling papers, they are consistently one thou thick
I csn never understand when people actually take the time to "thumbs down" these better. This build is awesome.
I love your amazing metal work. And absolutely love this build. You're doing an amazing job. Keep it up 👍This Old Tony has a great video on cutting splines like this and mentioned something about leaving the end of the cut square like that. Something about possibly to reduce stress cracks.
Killer job as usual like I said before your a talented young dude! keep up the good work!!
I like what you did there with the milling the splines and how you are taking the time that is needed to do the job right from what I can see, wish you the best on this and all your projects...
This is my favorite channel. Everytime i wacht your videos, i want to get my own projects done. Greetings from the other side of the ocean!
Really cool, great work... plan+ execute= well done result, wtg!
Always so satisfy to watch your videos. Such a creative and skilled person. Thank you for sharing with us
You obviously really think about each task before tackling it. And your methods always seem to be spot on. You have a lot of skills and talent to devise ways to accomplish what you want. Thumbs Up!
Great stuff..Brat..Great to see you again.
Great work.
Such great craftsmanship as always!!!!!!!! This is an awesome build!!
Nice work. Great presentation!
Looks great and looks to function very well.
Mike
Always excited to see a new episode, cant wait to see the smile on your face when you fire her up for the first time, getting closer!!
Love this series!!! ❤️
You are going places ! Keep the good work up.
love the series, keep up the good work.
Can't wait to see this on the road. Great job.
Very well thought out and executed ! Great machining skills, especially for such a young guy! The future of the hobby appears to be in really good hands. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to see the video. I'm getting ready for surgery.
Best wishes on your surgery.
@@esqueue thank you
Love the series. Always nice to see another video
Good stuff Vince. Been watching since the days of realsteel1776, and I'm excited to see this project come together as much as your other projects.
Excellent job as usual. I'm looking forward to how you'll tackle the shift lever and it's forward placement. Always impressed with your welding skills. Keep up the good work.
Labor of love .much respect 🤙🏻
Thanks for sharing!
With that 6 cylinder, I have a feeling you're building a small Rocket Ship. Absolutely cannot wait. ;-p So interesting following you every step of the way.
You really do nice work!!
Thank you!
Amazing creativity, this channel deserves a million subscribers. Really enjoying your videos. Wish I could give you more than one thumbs up 👍.
If I remember correctly, the old Ford torque-tubes had an A-frame from the ball-joint to the outer ends of the rear axles - the purpose was to stiffen up the whole rear axle assembly and prevent longitudinal movement of the rear axle on acceleration & braking, not just relying on the transverse spring.
So I think you need a control arm coming forward from the outboard of each rear axle to a pivot point inline with the ball-joint on the torque tube... OR a Watts Linkage to constrain the movement of the back axle to a vertical direction - your Panhard rod does the same thing in the transverse direction.
Enjoy all your vids seems just like you started and now ready for engine it seems.PS Please no more ads
Please make sure to refit the two rear radius rods as they are designed for triangulation. Otherwise you are only relaying on where the torque tube bolts to the rear centre section to hold all the stresses of the rear axle.
Love the spline work
desde Argentina te felicito es un gran trabajo y mucho oficio yoreparo trasmiciones automaticas y contrui un CURVED DASH 1903 durante 21 años y lo empese alos 45 años y fabrique absulatamente todo en el taller hasta los faroles de kerosene tenes un gran Don que nos regalo DIOS APLAUSOS DESDE AQUI
Very well done,thanks.
Another Great video, you never cease to amaze me with your creativity and skill! keep them coming.
Very impressive work!
It's nice to see that you are incorporating old technology with the new. I saw a model A Ford rear at the scrap yard that someone had used to build a farm trailer. It's a shame that people don't care about history. Do you happen to have an old model a clutch disc around? I'm going to use an old transmission from a model A, and need this for my power input.i would also be interested in what you would charge to make me a stub shaft for the output side from the u joint.
You Amaze Me Young Sir !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That was fast it’s looking great
Quality stuff as usual 💪🏼👌🏼👍🏼
Excellent.
Looking better and better
You are a genius.
Really enjoy watching what you are doing
I tried to do a similar axle drive and found i kept getting excessive wear because the parts were not heat treated
Excellent..
Hey Sir. Hope your 4th of July was good. I have a question of course. Why not weld the spline and coupler together for extra strength? So we will have a chevy transmission matted to a ford engine I see. And maybe put a grease fitting on that dome thing where the drive shaft goes into the transmission, so that you can keep it lubricated. Thanks for the great video.
Awesome work !
Well done...!👍
Excellent job on the re-splining. I did a similar job recently but used a tubular driveshaft so I avoided any re-splining. I think the method you chose worked very well. A couple of comments, if I may. 1, the relatively short length of the driveshaft made it fit on the milling table. Most times the shaft is quite a lot longer so holding it and indexing it would mean some imaginative solution (which I'm sure you could handle). 2, I'm not sure if that shaft is like the ones I have, but the shaft diameter is smaller along most of it's length and only comes up to full diameter at the splined parts and in the middle where a support bearing is. Is your shaft slightly undersize where the splines have been cut? I don't think it is a problem, but couldn't quite see from the video. 3, Using a high tensile bolt is not a great idea. They can fatigue and break. You are better off using a pin of relatively malleable steel and then putting something like a hose clip over it to stop the ends falling out if it breaks. I use two to maintain the balance. 4, As I said, I did a similar job recently and covered it in a video series. I show some alignment checking techniques which may be interesting to you as they do not require any specialised equipment. You might want to check it out. Thanks for showing the re-splining process, I might give it a go this way if I need to do the job again. All the best, Mart in England.
Not gonna say what 7:30 looks like don't want our over loads getting mad 😉👌
Awesome!
That was pretty cool, I always wondered how to make splines. But don't you then have to heat treat the splines? To harden them?
This driveshaft didn't seem to have any heat treat to the splines, so I wasn't worried about that
Superb
good job
Did you build the rotary table? The speedster is looking good.
Very good 👊✌️🇧🇷
Traditionally, a cigarette paper is used to zero out the endmill, it's much thinner than regular printing paper (about 22 microns, or just over half a thou vs 100 microns or 2.5 thou).
Why did being thinner matter. You compensate for the thickness anyway
@@sexyfacenation Only if you know the thickness!
Where are the radius rods?or are you using a pan hard bar. I can’t remember.
You should be using oil or coolant, not doing so is a good way to knacker you nice new cutters especially on carbon steel.
Between you and DYI from eu, you put all the "ASSEMBLERS" to shame !!!
Will the driveshaft and u-joint be balanced at some point?
most likely not
Why not cut excess out of centre and weld shaft together cutting and balancing on lathe?
This must be how Ed Roth constructed the Outlaw drive train except he used a 39 Ford transmission.
Could you make an adapter to mate a golf cart electric motor to a Model A differential?
tidy work
I've done this without using special spline cutter. Only a Woodruff Keyseat Cutter does a better job than an end mill.
👍😎👍
did you check if the splines are hardened
they're not
11:08 What podcast were you listening to?
haha pretty sure that's Star Talk with neil degrasse tyson
Not criticism, but did you mean boar tail in your title?
Sweeeet!
done a realy nice job on cutting those splines , never seen it done that way but it saves you making a custom milling bit
mightve used a pipecutter on that torque tube though d1qgi7ksrq21ya.cloudfront.net/media/catalog/product/cache/53f7e7bf262f1a75275189d121ad7ff7/d/s/dsc_0850_1_16.jpg
makes a straighter cut
its a nice setup , you only need a panhard bar or a watts linkage to keep the rear suspension in place under the car (panhard bar is more period correct i think )
Yea wot he said
Boar-tail?
Am I missing something? Why would you want a torque tube, seems like an old solution for weak chassis. This looks pretty substantial for what it is.
Also is the pivot point for the rear arms at the ball join? Could see it pulling itself apart if not
Pretty soon she'll make smoke. Maybe from the tires as well as the exhaust.
so the boat tail is becoming a boar tail ? lol cant wait for the pig snout !
Boar-tail or boat-tail?