I always found a good beefy one and used the center section as a big punch, I work on fire engines now and don’t do much suspension work anymore. I found my niche when I was a younger mechanic learning alignments and suspension work. I have rebuild gear boxes when that was the norm,bent front axles, straightened frames for years, rebuilt every kingpin known to man, thought I have seen every suspension ever made but there still coming out with new ones. It’s hard but you always have to work smart to keep from hurting yourself, you videos bring back a lot of memories
Hi bud really love u stuff I noticed on one of your videos that y had a very powerful air gun i think it was a 1 1/2 drive brill gun r that available in uk & whot was the make keep up the stuff reagards Les north wales 🏴 uk 🇬🇧
When re installing the rod and running into that kind of trouble where you couldn’t get the side on the frame back in you just play with the airbag valve and it’ll give you plenty of clearance
How driver or the owner of truck knows that that bush should be changed? is there any sound from torque rod bushing which indicates sit should be replaced. the crack is it visible with naked eye when it is not removed. is it one of the check list for driver to check that spot every alternative period? Good Job, with proper equipment life is easy .
we usually check for cracking and any kind of movement. if the bushing is all pushed over to one side or if the rubber is hanging out of it, splits, major cracking, (small surface cracking is normal) but anything where there is splits in the rubber then you can tell it is time for a re-bush.
I see that your airlines are 3/8" or 1/4" inch step up to 1/2" or 5/8'' and your airtool performance increases a lot as you guys deal with a lot of big rusty bolts in impact tools power is dependant in blows per second and CFM is key to this . In a machine building shop where i worked for years we had a new series of machines that had bigger assemblies with larger fasteners than we used in the past and the 1/2 " impacts were not up to the job so we ordered 3/4 " and one inch drive impacts to do the job but on 1/4 " airlines were not much better , we switched out to 5/8 " lines and 1/2 '' fittings fed by 3/4 " black pipe feed lines , big difference . CFM is where the powerer is like torque from a engine .
Flush cutters work great for getting the tail cut down on zip ties without leaving a razor edge hanging out there. When I pull these torque arms off, I dump the bags before I pull the bolts. It pushes the axle as far away from the frame rail as possible. Pull the bolts and arm and then air it back up. They will usually slide right in when going back together. Great content, keep it up!
never head of "flush cutters" before. I'll have to take a look at those and give them a try. I just hate it when people leave them long and i get an end in the eye or ear.
@@simcoespring you can find them for like $7 for a Good Entry-grade. the Bottom-feeder grade is super light-duty and meant for electronics assembly, cutting the long tails off of component leads. look for the ones that have a "real" pivot, not just a stamped sheet metal with rivet
I worked in a truck shop for 10 years. We found it cheaper to buy a new rod than it was to send it out and have them rebushed. We didn’t have time to wait for them to be sent out and returned either.
Question: why were there so many shims? Couldn't those shims explain why the bushings failed? I mean, he's literally prying the frame apart to reinstall. Isn't that a problem? Just asking
@@akbarshoed the shims are for alignment. Sometimes after a wreck things don’t go back exactly like it should so you get a lot of shims to be straight.
Scott, love all your videos and the simple explained process' involved, albeit completed with major lumps of machinery en tow. Can I just ask, do you have a "Clone Machine", for every time another worker passes by, I feel I'm seeing double.. :D
Come on man, turn your bolts around. The ones that goes through the frame should be bolt head to the tires that way you can put your plates and block on then deal with the torque rod without having to fight to line up the rest. I turn those bolts around everytime lol
I have a tip to offer. Say you have a fastener that is not moving. Before breaking out the "blue wrench" fill the impact gun with impact oil. Pull the trigger when adding the oil. COVER the exhaust with a rag!! Place onto the suborn fastener and hit the trigger!! Momentarily you greatly increase the power of the impact gun. Plus, the oil helps clean and lubricate the inner workings of your impact. I have used this trick MANY times on my own 1/2" drive impact. Thank you for doing the hard, dirty work to keep trucks on the road!!
not normally. is your truck a frightliner with a tuftrac suspension? they are notorious for having bad bushings under the ends of the leaf springs which can cause a lean. A lean would be mostly from worn out leaf springs or rubber block suspension being worn out. You can always email me a picture of the suspension.
@@simcoespring it’s a peterbilt 348 and it leans a lot when dumping loads, it’s about 200k miles in with original suspension parts. The bushings look ok on the torque rods, it’s not ripped from what I can see and it looks even. Could be worn out leaf springs
I have a question. Do torque rods, the ones that bolt down from front to back (not side to side like these), also keep the rear ends from moving when going around curves or turning?
@@simcoespring oh okay. How much does it cost to replace the bushings on a Hendrickson suspension?? Fleetpride here in North Carolina told me about $5,000.00 if I bring the truck. That seems very high
Some Zip tie makers also have a hand grip type of gun to both tighten the tie and cut it off flush. I've also seen these guns that will tighten the tie and leave a 1/8 to 3/16 out with an arc in the cut so there are no sharp corners. This type is needed if you know that sometime down the road the tie will need a little bit more tightening and gives you something to grab on to. And it maintains the rounded corners.
I’ve used these in my aviation days, the issue is they tend to wear out real quick and get annoying to use. The flush cutters are really the good fix. You do have to hide them though from everybody as other people that borrow them tend to cut steel wire and 5/“ bolts and ruin the edges.
Re: trimming the tie wraps. TH-camr J.C. Smith recommends you twist them off with a pair of vice grip pliers. The cut ends are not so sharp which reduces the danger for the next guy who has to work in that area.
Do you have a part number for the canister you press the bushing into before it enters the arm? We use a bearing cup, but people are always throwing it out, would like to get an actual tool.
the bushing is a 09729-01 from Reyco or 321-153 (dayton). I know that Automann has an installer for them because I've purchased them before. www.stengelbros.net/TRB6326-T-Torque-Rod-Bushing-Install-Tool-Hutch_p_30555.html this is an installer you can get from stengelbros, but it seems a tiny bit short, maybe you could weld a washer on top to give it a bit of more length to hold the bushing in better. hope this helps.
Awesome. Thank you. Appreciate the quick reply. I work in a shop that specializes in suspension and was looking for alternative ways of doing jobs when I came across your channel. Great content. Keep it up.
We sell them. You can get them at any automann parts distributer across north America. Most truck or spring shops have them for sale. Only thing, you do need the special installer or they won't go in properly. I can sell you the installer as well, let me know. My contact information is at www.simcoespring.com
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Bien amigo, yo en México me dedico a hacer los bushing.
Las de 2 3/4 para kenworth
Saludos y haces muy buen trabajo
I installed it in the truck stop without any pressure, use air bag to go up and down
You are best
I always found a good beefy one and used the center section as a big punch, I work on fire engines now and don’t do much suspension work anymore. I found my niche when I was a younger mechanic learning alignments and suspension work. I have rebuild gear boxes when that was the norm,bent front axles, straightened frames for years, rebuilt every kingpin known to man, thought I have seen every suspension ever made but there still coming out with new ones. It’s hard but you always have to work smart to keep from hurting yourself, you videos bring back a lot of memories
Your new fan from India..
Such an incredible video
Just wondering if I would have been easier to re install the opposite side first.?
It would have. You install frame side then use aligning pin for diff side
The port of power is definitely a great tool! Great job
Hi bud really love u stuff I noticed on one of your videos that y had a very powerful air gun i think it was a 1 1/2 drive brill gun r that available in uk & whot was the make keep up the stuff reagards Les north wales 🏴 uk 🇬🇧
When re installing the rod and running into that kind of trouble where you couldn’t get the side on the frame back in you just play with the airbag valve and it’ll give you plenty of clearance
Very cool pressing job your way better then many people on the tube.
How driver or the owner of truck knows that that bush should be changed? is there any sound from torque rod bushing which indicates sit should be replaced. the crack is it visible with naked eye when it is not removed. is it one of the check list for driver to check that spot every alternative period? Good Job, with proper equipment life is easy .
we usually check for cracking and any kind of movement. if the bushing is all pushed over to one side or if the rubber is hanging out of it, splits, major cracking, (small surface cracking is normal) but anything where there is splits in the rubber then you can tell it is time for a re-bush.
@@simcoespring Or some residue of rust(colour) around the bushing.
I see that your airlines are 3/8" or 1/4" inch step up to 1/2" or 5/8'' and your airtool performance increases a lot as you guys deal with a lot of big rusty bolts in impact tools power is dependant in blows per second and CFM is key to this . In a machine building shop where i worked for years we had a new series of machines that had bigger assemblies with larger fasteners than we used in the past and the 1/2 " impacts were not up to the job so we ordered 3/4 " and one inch drive impacts to do the job but on 1/4 " airlines were not much better , we switched out to 5/8 " lines and 1/2 '' fittings fed by 3/4 " black pipe feed lines , big difference . CFM is where the powerer is like torque from a engine .
We use 3/8 and 1/2" and it works great.
I couldn’t agree with you more on the Porta power,I use mine all the time, Plus over the years I have been acquiring extra pieces for it 😁
Your vice is the bomb. I love it. Wish we had one.
thank u for ur video how many ton does this press?
this is a 100 ton press
Very nice. You have to teach me the third hand trick coming from below....🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yeah that tricked me for a second!
Have you ever tried P-80 lubricant?
Flush cutters work great for getting the tail cut down on zip ties without leaving a razor edge hanging out there. When I pull these torque arms off, I dump the bags before I pull the bolts. It pushes the axle as far away from the frame rail as possible. Pull the bolts and arm and then air it back up. They will usually slide right in when going back together. Great content, keep it up!
never head of "flush cutters" before. I'll have to take a look at those and give them a try. I just hate it when people leave them long and i get an end in the eye or ear.
@@simcoespring you can find them for like $7 for a Good Entry-grade. the Bottom-feeder grade is super light-duty and meant for electronics assembly, cutting the long tails off of component leads. look for the ones that have a "real" pivot, not just a stamped sheet metal with rivet
Came here to say this exact thing
I couldn’t agree more I hate getting cut on zip ties when they’re not cut flush😬
I worked in a truck shop for 10 years. We found it cheaper to buy a new rod than it was to send it out and have them rebushed. We didn’t have time to wait for them to be sent out and returned either.
This time it looked like it went pretty darn fast.
Question: why were there so many shims? Couldn't those shims explain why the bushings failed? I mean, he's literally prying the frame apart to reinstall. Isn't that a problem? Just asking
@@akbarshoed the shims are for alignment. Sometimes after a wreck things don’t go back exactly like it should so you get a lot of shims to be straight.
Where can I get the tapered sleeve
you look good for being 60 years old😀
Scott, love all your videos and the simple explained process' involved, albeit completed with major lumps of machinery en tow. Can I just ask, do you have a "Clone Machine", for every time another worker passes by, I feel I'm seeing double.. :D
Since that part controls side to side motion,
I’d call that a Panhard Rod.
Or a track rod. Definitely not managing torque reactions...
Come on man, turn your bolts around. The ones that goes through the frame should be bolt head to the tires that way you can put your plates and block on then deal with the torque rod without having to fight to line up the rest.
I turn those bolts around everytime lol
Very good job and a very good helper. Quality stuff. Thanks guys.
👍👍
use two zip ties....one to the rod, the other to the zip tie. So no rub wires.
Thank You
You install the ease end first ,,next time install the hard end first
Awesome
Thank you for the vid.
How can i find out what part number i need for the bushings?
this particular bushing is a:
TRB6185
47691-000L
321-233
E-5275
HS44
SA2140
09-5039
R305275
POLY: 321-223U, D405, E-9516, or 13521
I have a tip to offer.
Say you have a fastener that is not moving. Before breaking out the "blue wrench" fill the impact gun with impact oil. Pull the trigger when adding the oil.
COVER the exhaust with a rag!!
Place onto the suborn fastener and hit the trigger!! Momentarily you greatly increase the power of the impact gun. Plus, the oil helps clean and lubricate the inner workings of your impact.
I have used this trick MANY times on my own 1/2" drive impact.
Thank you for doing the hard, dirty work to keep trucks on the road!!
Does this torque rod cause dump beds to lean side to side when dumping?
not normally. is your truck a frightliner with a tuftrac suspension? they are notorious for having bad bushings under the ends of the leaf springs which can cause a lean.
A lean would be mostly from worn out leaf springs or rubber block suspension being worn out.
You can always email me a picture of the suspension.
@@simcoespring it’s a peterbilt 348 and it leans a lot when dumping loads, it’s about 200k miles in with original suspension parts. The bushings look ok on the torque rods, it’s not ripped from what I can see and it looks even. Could be worn out leaf springs
With AirTrac suspension
What that bar does? I have always wondered that.
it holds the axle straight when you turn a corner. So the more weight you pull the heavier and stronger the bar needs to be.
@@simcoespring Thanks.
👍
I have a question. Do torque rods, the ones that bolt down from front to back (not side to side like these), also keep the rear ends from moving when going around curves or turning?
nope. They hold the top of the differential from rotating when you accelerate. That way your drive shafts stay all aligned.
@@simcoespring oh okay. How much does it cost to replace the bushings on a Hendrickson suspension?? Fleetpride here in North Carolina told me about $5,000.00 if I bring the truck. That seems very high
good bearing pullers to
Some Zip tie makers also have a hand grip type of gun to both tighten the tie and cut it off flush. I've also seen these guns that will tighten the tie and leave a 1/8 to 3/16 out with an arc in the cut so there are no sharp corners. This type is needed if you know that sometime down the road the tie will need a little bit more tightening and gives you something to grab on to. And it maintains the rounded corners.
Interesting. I'll have to look at that
I’ve used these in my aviation days, the issue is they tend to wear out real quick and get annoying to use. The flush cutters are really the good fix. You do have to hide them though from everybody as other people that borrow them tend to cut steel wire and 5/“ bolts and ruin the edges.
Re: trimming the tie wraps. TH-camr J.C. Smith recommends you twist them off with a pair of vice grip pliers. The cut ends are not so sharp which reduces the danger for the next guy who has to work in that area.
cool i'll have to try that. I just like trimming them so I don't get poked in the eye by the leftovers.
@@simcoespring agree, looks alot neeter
Do you have a part number for the canister you press the bushing into before it enters the arm? We use a bearing cup, but people are always throwing it out, would like to get an actual tool.
it was a reyco torque rod bushing installer. Let me look it up, I'll get back to you on that.
the bushing is a 09729-01 from Reyco or 321-153 (dayton). I know that Automann has an installer for them because I've purchased them before.
www.stengelbros.net/TRB6326-T-Torque-Rod-Bushing-Install-Tool-Hutch_p_30555.html
this is an installer you can get from stengelbros, but it seems a tiny bit short, maybe you could weld a washer on top to give it a bit of more length to hold the bushing in better.
hope this helps.
Awesome. Thank you. Appreciate the quick reply. I work in a shop that specializes in suspension and was looking for alternative ways of doing jobs when I came across your channel. Great content. Keep it up.
Where can I purchase those bushing ?
We sell them. You can get them at any automann parts distributer across north America. Most truck or spring shops have them for sale. Only thing, you do need the special installer or they won't go in properly. I can sell you the installer as well, let me know. My contact information is at www.simcoespring.com
Where do I get the tapered bushing tube??
We use the same tube to install Reyco and Hutch torque rod bushings. The tool can be hard to find.
@@simcoespring any part # please?
If i only I had a hydraulic press in my backyard
U can use a big enough vise to press the bushings in.
Who would you ever not rebush both?