Just casually went through all 16 of these and then went on to browse through the tree of knowledge for half an hour. Thanks for your time and willingness to share all this amazing knowledge.
I just watched all 16 in 1 sitting, loved it! Like many I started surfing in April because my gym/pools closed and I needed to be in the watero. Very concise and excellent information in all of your videos. I liked them all and subbed. Great job!
wow. i need to re-watch all of these videos several times, but it's so impressive how simply you've laid out the information around how waves are formed and what to look for to understand how the waves will be at the beach. thank you for making these videos :)
There's something I don't get : a 17s period wave has a wavelength of 225m, the refraction should start at half of it : 112m, but you say it's about 250m in the video. Is there something I missed ? thanks for the great explanation !
Same factor of 2 missing in all the later wavelength calculations also.... I think it could be from the conveyor belt thing - the apparent wavespeed is .78 * the period , but the Actual wavespeed is 1.56 , so actual wavelength is 1.56*period. meaning we use actual speed for the length calculation!
Great video but still not sure I follow the shallow water wave calculation. How does a 10 second open ocean wave become a shallow water at 8m depth? I was always told the relationship was wavelength = 1.56*period. If I were to follow that, I'd get 15.6 in meters wavelength. A 20th of that is 0.78 meters.
Hi Kato, it is simply to do with the fact that the swell and tide are travelling in the same direction so it accelerates the swell arrival. Where as an outgoing tide is an opposing current to the swell direction and so slows the arrival of the swell. At a beach with a particularly fast moving tide, it’s been known that waves can stop breaking if the outgoing tide is so strong.
Great explanation. I have a question relating to the shallow water wave speed, and more specifically the wave speed as we are paddling in to the wave to catch it. If the wave has a wave speed heading towards the beach, then why are we getting drawn up the face of the wave in the opposite direction the wave is moving, while trying to catch it ?? Thanks, Kayne.
Also what is the physical mechanical difference between a deep vs 'Shallow water wave' , something special happens changing how it moves when depth < 0.05*Wavelength ?
Great video! I wonder if backwash is a subject worth making one of these videos about? For example, a nearby break with a relatively steep gradient sometimes gets very backwashy during high tide...I wonder what (other) factors determine whether there will be backwash.
other point : at my local spot (southwestern france), when i can see a 5,10m 9s period west swell on the buoy, there is usually around 3m, 13s waves. But with what you say, waves should be higher than the swell high and period should not change. Why is that ?
The buoys measure the swell at sea. You have to know your local break to know if all that swell will arrive at it, or what percentage will arrive (say, in a sheltered bay) from any swell direction.
I had some further thoughts on my reply 20 minutes ago. If your swell wraps into a bay it becomes changed by that process. It becomes smaller but the process also takes out the short period components* of the swell. It gets screened out. Think of it as the chop hasn't got the energy to turn the corner. *Swell is usually a range of periods and expressed as an average. The best representation of this is my local buoys results. They are expressed in a graphic called a directional spectra. www.mhl.nsw.gov.au/Station-SYDDOW
When you said "1:4 a surging wave that does not really break" you, or I needed to see a video of that type of wave. [I was expecting you to say it would be a slab.]
![🎤 ไปกันต่อออ! จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.2] (1/2) เพลงของใครจึ้งสุดน้าา 💓🎤 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mLI_K0sAS4o/mqdefault.jpg)
Just casually went through all 16 of these and then went on to browse through the tree of knowledge for half an hour. Thanks for your time and willingness to share all this amazing knowledge.
I just watched all 16 in 1 sitting, loved it! Like many I started surfing in April because my gym/pools closed and I needed to be in the watero. Very concise and excellent information in all of your videos. I liked them all and subbed. Great job!
Thanks for the support Miguel, we're stoked you enjoyed them!
wow. i need to re-watch all of these videos several times, but it's so impressive how simply you've laid out the information around how waves are formed and what to look for to understand how the waves will be at the beach. thank you for making these videos :)
This video series is amazing! Thanks for the clear yet concise explanations!
How awesome is nature!! And we get to pay gratitude by surfing each wave on its one and only voyage. Thanks guys.
Our pleasure!
This is a great explanation. Simple yet detailed at the same. Thanks
Thank you David. We’re glad you enjoyed it!
no one else could explain this topic better than this....
at 3:08 mark, How to you calculate depth from period of the swell (ie, 10s Period of Swell = 8M of Depth) ?
This series was fantastic! Thank you so much guys!
Glad you enjoyed it Andres!
There's something I don't get : a 17s period wave has a wavelength of 225m, the refraction should start at half of it : 112m, but you say it's about 250m in the video. Is there something I missed ? thanks for the great explanation !
Same Question :)
Same factor of 2 missing in all the later wavelength calculations also.... I think it could be from the conveyor belt thing - the apparent wavespeed is .78 * the period , but the Actual wavespeed is 1.56 , so actual wavelength is 1.56*period. meaning we use actual speed for the length calculation!
Best physics of waves video I've ever seen- thanks folks!
Wow, thanks!
Great series. Thanks for making it.
Our pleasure!
Sick video series !!
That was wonderful! Y'all are great teachers and scientists, you fit so much information in such a condensed fashion and made it easy to understand.
Thank you Wduncani!
Great video but still not sure I follow the shallow water wave calculation.
How does a 10 second open ocean wave become a shallow water at 8m depth? I was always told the relationship was wavelength = 1.56*period. If I were to follow that, I'd get 15.6 in meters wavelength. A 20th of that is 0.78 meters.
Excellent series - thanks!
You're very welcome!
Great explanations again. Can you explain the ‘pulse of swell on the incoming tide phenomenon’?
Hi Kato, it is simply to do with the fact that the swell and tide are travelling in the same direction so it accelerates the swell arrival. Where as an outgoing tide is an opposing current to the swell direction and so slows the arrival of the swell. At a beach with a particularly fast moving tide, it’s been known that waves can stop breaking if the outgoing tide is so strong.
Surf Simply thanks, appreciate the info. Keep doing what you are doing.
That was just excellent and enjoying to watch 👌
Glad to hear it!
Great explanation. I have a question relating to the shallow water wave speed, and more specifically the wave speed as we are paddling in to the wave to catch it. If the wave has a wave speed heading towards the beach, then why are we getting drawn up the face of the wave in the opposite direction the wave is moving, while trying to catch it ??
Thanks, Kayne.
Also what is the physical mechanical difference between a deep vs 'Shallow water wave' , something special happens changing how it moves when depth < 0.05*Wavelength ?
Great video! I wonder if backwash is a subject worth making one of these videos about? For example, a nearby break with a relatively steep gradient sometimes gets very backwashy during high tide...I wonder what (other) factors determine whether there will be backwash.
watched all the videos. don't think there is a better explanation on the matter on the internet.
Thank you! We’re stoked you enjoyed them
this channel it's just amazing !
Thank you McJeep!
You guys are awesome! Please keep going 🤙
Thank you! Will do!
I'm just tryin' rip, not learn math and shit
...just kidding this was a great video, really informative and easy to digest. Keep up the good work
Haha glad you enjoyed it!
Love your vids btw , thanks
It would be easier to follow if you show the full calculations in each case ... do you have this somewhere else perhaps ?
other point : at my local spot (southwestern france), when i can see a 5,10m 9s period west swell on the buoy, there is usually around 3m, 13s waves. But with what you say, waves should be higher than the swell high and period should not change. Why is that ?
The buoys measure the swell at sea. You have to know your local break to know if all that swell will arrive at it, or what percentage will arrive (say, in a sheltered bay) from any swell direction.
I had some further thoughts on my reply 20 minutes ago.
If your swell wraps into a bay it becomes changed by that process.
It becomes smaller but the process also takes out the short period components* of the swell.
It gets screened out. Think of it as the chop hasn't got the energy to turn the corner.
*Swell is usually a range of periods and expressed as an average.
The best representation of this is my local buoys results.
They are expressed in a graphic called a directional spectra.
www.mhl.nsw.gov.au/Station-SYDDOW
When you said "1:4 a surging wave that does not really break" you, or I needed to see a video of that type of wave.
[I was expecting you to say it would be a slab.]
A slab is certainly close to it and often slabs become surging during different swell heights, tides and swell directions.