When I first started surfing, I spent 2 years without some of this crucial info. After a Hawaiian friend Sat me down on the beach & broke it down (very similarly to this video) my surfing exploded. Suddenly I was in the line up & getting real waves instead of the reform on the inside. A couple years ago, I shared this same info with my son & he does so much better in the water now. Sharing this video with him for our next trip.
So I've been surfing about three years and can hold my own in pretty daunting conditions, yet I've learned a new perspective from this video, cheers mate!
Great video! One thing I'd note is that when considering swell period, you also need to account for bathymetry and swell direction. At my local (mediocre) beach break, we don't have any headlands or reefs, just shifting sandbars that can be inconsistent. Any period above 11-12 seconds turns into Closeout City because the swell is too organized but doesn't have anything to break it up. You can find the occasional corner, but it won't be a long ride. Our best sessions are between 8-10 seconds, and when you have a primary swell and secondary swell converging to create a peak. There's something about acquiring that niche knowledge of a break that is very satisfying. Makes you feel more in tune with the ocean.
Add to these the ability to understand currents/rips and how they can be used to your advantage. One of the key differences between an ok surfer and a good surfer
Watching this and your other videos of waves as a painter...can never observe enough to learn of the anatomy of waves and many ... Alot to learn....having a better understanding of the anatomy of waves will make one a better painter. ..remember it's a never ending learning process... Beginners get the basics down....then choose your subject..and keep at it... The late painter of the sea...E. John Robinson would so love to see today's generation how they film the ocean waves..... Be safe out there ....
A very nice video Surf Rat. I just want to add that the wave will break when the amplitude is 1.5 times the depth of the water (in front of the wave). So on a flat day, put on your goggles and survey the ocean bottom, and you'll know where the take off spots are. Pick out some reference points on land. This is a "trick of the trade" knowledge for competitive surfers. This is why some surfers always seem to be in the right spot. Cheers!
Dude cool explanation, ive lived hawaii all my life, we learned to read the ocean also, you make total scense just you broke it down in science , I've never heard it explained that way...... awesome ......I SUBSCRIBED😁👍🤙🤙🌊🌊
Great video! I learned so much and have infinite more to learn. The relationship between the surface and the bottom is a game changer. Looking forward to more videos from you. Thank you! 🙏🏽
I'm from New York and I've never surfed before but I want to learn so bad! I'll be taking surfing lessons this summer. Thanks for this video! Learned a lot!
Yeah man awesome video! I’m from Mexico and last month I lived on my near surf spot (made my surf quarantine over there) catch some good waves but I knew that I had to learn and understand more the ocean and the wave reading... now I’m back at home no ocean here just MTB and I miss the ocean A LOT! Looking at your video brought me that ocean feeling and I could understand better the wave breaking and current... Saludos desde Mexico If you want to surf here we have nice pipelines...🤙🔥🔥🔥
Your videos are fucking amazing. The tone of your voice, the pacing the education and highlights. Thank you so much. I've been starting to look at a lot of surf videos but you are the first channel I will subscribe to.
Cheers surf rat! Lil review for me of what I kind of know already but also I haven't surfed in years and I'm very glad I subscribed to your channel. :)
Part 2 should be when to go left or right and how fast a wave peels based on its slope. Part 3 should be reading sections ahead of you while you're on the wave.
Very interesting. 2:45 in -- swell from the South-West, so you are over in W.A. Or (from your accent), West coast of North Island N.Z. perhaps? Great tips for someone like me who's only done amateur body surfing.
I didn't think South Island's West coast had any beaches but I guess it's possible. Ditto, Tasmania. So maybe those or a Pacific island? (can't think of anywhere else for a SW swell...unless maybe South Africa?? but you said I was getting close) Cheers. I was looking at the surf today (I'm far south coast NSW) taking in what your videos said, and I could see the features. Another good spot for getting waves seems to me to be on a (submerged) sand spit heading basically straight out from the beach (seems a good thing to avoid rips too).
Few experts/teachers enunciate this aspect of the sport/activity/art/pursuit so well. (Unlike that crappy sentence! 😅) Then there's the clunky-but-cool slice of philosophy, from 4:25... 🤔😉 Inadvertently, the approach I've taken in returning to surfing - and now teaching my neice - is aligning with your own approach. That feels pretty good. 😌
Thanks for the tips! But I'll disregard everything after 4:27.. Lol. You took a theory and tried to squeeze it in here.. too bad.. I just wanted to learn surf tips. Hahaha
As a life long surfer I knew all of this but I never had it presented in one short package like this. Very clear and to the point.
4:16 when someone touches their fingertips together like this, I listen with undivided attention.
Awesome video, reading the waves can be one of the hardest bits to surfing, and you explained it perfectly. Thanks and keep it up
When I first started surfing, I spent 2 years without some of this crucial info. After a Hawaiian friend Sat me down on the beach & broke it down (very similarly to this video) my surfing exploded. Suddenly I was in the line up & getting real waves instead of the reform on the inside.
A couple years ago, I shared this same info with my son & he does so much better in the water now. Sharing this video with him for our next trip.
U must have watched The North Shore movie!
can you tell us what did they teach you?
@@lucasvelez5955 when the wave breaks here dont be there or ya gonna get drilled
@@ilitimotek come to hawaii and ask locals. they know everything
The wind only blows offshore when I'm in work. Fact 😞
Yep as soon as I get off it turns onshore!
you must live in HB too :/
So I've been surfing about three years and can hold my own in pretty daunting conditions, yet I've learned a new perspective from this video, cheers mate!
Probably the first video every beginner surfer or any one going into the drink should watch.
As a beginner surfer this was such a helpful video.
Cool video man! As a dude who lives in the desert and just bought a surfboard, it’s a steep steep learning curve.
oh yes, but a satisfying one. Don't forget you can surf into your 70s at least!
I used to live in the hi-desert but then me and my family moved to slo in 2018 , so I’ve been able to surf a lot lately
😅
"16 seconds and above is worth breaking promises for" haha. Great video! :)
Great video! One thing I'd note is that when considering swell period, you also need to account for bathymetry and swell direction. At my local (mediocre) beach break, we don't have any headlands or reefs, just shifting sandbars that can be inconsistent. Any period above 11-12 seconds turns into Closeout City because the swell is too organized but doesn't have anything to break it up. You can find the occasional corner, but it won't be a long ride. Our best sessions are between 8-10 seconds, and when you have a primary swell and secondary swell converging to create a peak. There's something about acquiring that niche knowledge of a break that is very satisfying. Makes you feel more in tune with the ocean.
I don't even surf and find this interesting as can be. Thanks for a great to-the-point video man.
I'm glad he clarified because I thought that was a desert, and it was sandy and dry
I’m so happy I’ve found you and this channel. Very healthy sense of humour too. So informative thank you
Add to these the ability to understand currents/rips and how they can be used to your advantage. One of the key differences between an ok surfer and a good surfer
yep! this is covered a bit in my video on paddling and getting out the back
Watching this and your other videos of waves as a painter...can never observe enough to learn of the anatomy of waves and many ...
Alot to learn....having a better understanding of the anatomy of waves will make one a better painter. ..remember it's a never ending learning process...
Beginners get the basics down....then choose your subject..and keep at it...
The late painter of the sea...E. John Robinson would so love to see today's generation how they film the ocean waves.....
Be safe out there ....
Nice vid, learnt a lot in 5 mins!
this video is so great in its lessons, editing and video making
This video helped me out so much when I started surfing. Crazy how much info there is to take away still
A very nice video Surf Rat. I just want to add that the wave will break when the amplitude is 1.5 times the depth of the water (in front of the wave). So on a flat day, put on your goggles and survey the ocean bottom, and you'll know where the take off spots are. Pick out some reference points on land. This is a "trick of the trade" knowledge for competitive surfers. This is why some surfers always seem to be in the right spot. Cheers!
Dude cool explanation, ive lived hawaii all my life, we learned to read the ocean also, you make total scense just you broke it down in science , I've never heard it explained that way...... awesome ......I SUBSCRIBED😁👍🤙🤙🌊🌊
This was actually rich on information and very helpful!
What a fantastic video! So clear and concise. Thank you.
Really good video dude. Just started surfing this explains a lot in 5 mins
Great video! I learned so much and have infinite more to learn. The relationship between the surface and the bottom is a game changer.
Looking forward to more videos from you.
Thank you! 🙏🏽
Thank you bro! Great video! Love from Brazil!
I'm from New York and I've never surfed before but I want to learn so bad! I'll be taking surfing lessons this summer. Thanks for this video! Learned a lot!
Look into Skudin Surf Long Beach NY 🤙🏄 I like their green light session....
Enjoy
Dang son, the surprising eloquence blew me away! Sick video and super informative. Subscribed!
Very well explained!! Thank you guys, keep doing great videos like this one!
Really instructive, thanks for this great video
This is a great video, thank you very much for making it! Subscribed and really looking forward to the rest of your content
Great stuff... added to my bookmarks.
Yeah man awesome video! I’m from Mexico and last month I lived on my near surf spot (made my surf quarantine over there) catch some good waves but I knew that I had to learn and understand more the ocean and the wave reading... now I’m back at home no ocean here just MTB and I miss the ocean A LOT! Looking at your video brought me that ocean feeling and I could understand better the wave breaking and current...
Saludos desde Mexico
If you want to surf here we have nice pipelines...🤙🔥🔥🔥
Orale wey!
Great video dude been surfing for 20 years and I learnt something...
I mean...you CAN surf closeouts. ;)
say, what's a "rio.s"??
Eric Outram I thought so....Absolutely awesome and thanks!
only bodyboarders would surf it!
that's how I got really good at late takeoffs
Great video.
My favorite topic, now my favorite video on the topic. Thank you for what you're doing!!! Cheers!
This is so good I want MOORE THEORY!!😍
I wish I would've seen this video a week ago before I went out to Oceanside and ended up underneath the pier.
This video is exactly what I was looking for
🙏😁
Excellent presentation
Thanks so very much for sharing your knowledge friend, you’re kind to do so and helping a guy out. 🤙 🌊
Obi wan help me shred you are my only hope!
Very useful video! Thanks
Great video! Very informative and easy to follow
“16s is worth breaking promises” truth spoken.
Your videos are fucking amazing. The tone of your voice, the pacing the education and highlights. Thank you so much. I've been starting to look at a lot of surf videos but you are the first channel I will subscribe to.
I feel like Florida needs it's own video about waves...
Really nice video, thanks!
What a video man. Loved it. Onto the next one! And subbed.
Great video. Thank you so much
I love a hot onshore wind peeling back a wave.
the number one problem that i have with surfing is reading a wave, so this helps a lot
Cheers surf rat! Lil review for me of what I kind of know already but also I haven't surfed in years and I'm very glad I subscribed to your channel. :)
Great vid man
great video mate, thanks !
Thanks for sharing your wisdom! Very scientific. So cool!
Thank you for the great video!
Part 2 should be when to go left or right and how fast a wave peels based on its slope. Part 3 should be reading sections ahead of you while you're on the wave.
great video! thank you
Will this work for snowboarding? Asking for a blind tricycle rider
Is this a documentary? Quality is on point 👌
Superbly done! Concise & honest. Thank You!
Great video.
Cool videos mate, keep up the good work, will follow you!
Interesting choice of conclusion, but a very informative video. If only I had an explanation like this when I stated surfing, thank man:).
Thank you so much!
Great job on the video.
Suggestion. A video to read and know where to position oneself when surfing to get that peak wave spot.
Hey, I touch on this in a few of my other videos, and I'll keep coming back to it as it's so important
Dude! Very nice work!
Great vid!
Epic video!
Sharing the surfing lifestyle :)
great video!
learnt a lot cheers mate
This is such a rad video! I love the addition of the drawing on the waves! Super helpful
Great video. Thanks for sharing
such an amazing explanation! thank you
Very didactic, you got my attention for the whole video, which is not given for a tutorial.
Great video. Professional and relevant. Mahalo!
Awesome vid-really helpful and clear cheers
Good work fella 👍
Watched this while eating dinner fantastic tips.
Thanks surf rat! Subbed. Great vid, keep it up!
What a cool video!
Very interesting. 2:45 in -- swell from the South-West, so you are over in W.A. Or (from your accent), West coast of North Island N.Z. perhaps? Great tips for someone like me who's only done amateur body surfing.
I like your detective work, you're getting close.... but that spot it in neither of those places. Keep your ear to the ground my man!
I didn't think South Island's West coast had any beaches but I guess it's possible. Ditto, Tasmania. So maybe those or a Pacific island? (can't think of anywhere else for a SW swell...unless maybe South Africa?? but you said I was getting close) Cheers. I was looking at the surf today (I'm far south coast NSW) taking in what your videos said, and I could see the features. Another good spot for getting waves seems to me to be on a (submerged) sand spit heading basically straight out from the beach (seems a good thing to avoid rips too).
Amazing video! congrats
Thanks man!!
very well explained.
1:44 like the chasing Mavericks reference
Very good!
Thank you so much yeeeeeew very good advice 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏❤ love god so much
Few experts/teachers enunciate this aspect of the sport/activity/art/pursuit so well. (Unlike that crappy sentence! 😅) Then there's the clunky-but-cool slice of philosophy, from 4:25... 🤔😉
Inadvertently, the approach I've taken in returning to surfing - and now teaching my neice - is aligning with your own approach. That feels pretty good. 😌
awesome tips bro...keep up the good work...
Wow what an interesting video. Very informative thankyou - just subscribed!
Great vid thanks mate
great video thnx
video very good, am i ready for big rock now???
Great video
Nice vid. Thx
Thanks for the tips! But I'll disregard everything after 4:27.. Lol. You took a theory and tried to squeeze it in here.. too bad.. I just wanted to learn surf tips. Hahaha
Closeouts are the best
Daniel Goldin If I'm bodysurfing or bodyboarding that's what I look for